Independent Sub-departments: Great Wardrobe 1660-1782

Great Wardrobe 1660–1782

According to the 1707 edition of Chamberlayne:

This Office is to make Provisions for Coronations, Marriages and Funerals of the Royal Family; to furnish the Court with Beds, Hangings, Clothes of Estate, Carpets, and other Necessaries; to furnish Houses for Ambassadors, at their first arrival here; Presents for Foreign Princes and Ambassadors; Clothes of Estate, and other Furniture for the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord President of Wales; and all her Majesty's Ambassadors abroad; to provide all Robes for foreign Knights of the Garter, Robes for Knights of the Garter at home, and Robes and all other Furniture for the Officers of the Garter, Coats for Kings, Heralds, and Pursuivants at Arms, Robes for the Lord Treasurer, and under Treasurer and Chancellor of the Exchequer, &c. Livery for the Lord Chamberlain, Grooms of her Majesty's Privy-Chamber, Officers of her Majesty's Robes, and diverse other her Majesty's Servants; Rich Liveries for the two Lords Chief Justices; all the Barons of the Exchequer; diverse Officers in those Courts; all Liveries for her Majesties Servants, as Yeomen of the Guard, and Warders of the Tower, Trumpeters, Kettle-Drummers, Drummers and Fifes; the Messengers, and all belonging to the Stables, as Coachmen, Footmen, Littermen, Postillions and Grooms, &c. All Coaches, Chariots, Harnesses, Saddles, Bits, Bridles, &c. The Queen's Watermen, Game-keepers, &c., All Linnen and Laces for her Majesty's Person, &c., As also such embroider'd Tilts and other Furniture for the Barges; Furniture for all Royal Yachts; Furniture of Courts for arraignment of Peers, and very many other Services....since the great fire of London, this Office is kept in York-House Buildings.

The principal officer of the great wardrobe was the master. He was appointed by the Crown by letters patent under the great seal. The grants in 1660 and 1671 in favour of Sir Edward Montagu and Ralph Montagu were for life. Despite this, the latter was displaced on the accession of James II in 1685 by Viscount Preston who was appointed during pleasure. Montagu returned to office in 1689 by virtue of his grant of 1671. His son the second Duke of Montagu received a life grant in reversion in 1705 which did not expire until his death in 1749. Thereafter all grants were during pleasure. In 1674 the Master was granted a fixed salary of £2,000 in lieu of poundage, plus a livery payment of £106 3s 4d. The former was reduced to £800 in 1749, increased again to £2,000 in 1760 and finally fixed at £1,400 in 1775. In fact, the master continued to receive poundage on some goods, yielding at least £300 and “probably much more'. (fn. 2)

The office of deputy was in the gift of the master. His salary, fixed at £200 in 1674, was reduced to £150 in 1761. The assistant to the deputy master was established by 1765 and made £50 per annum. (fn. 3)

The office of clerk of the great wardrobe was appointed by the Crown by letters patent under the great seal. Grants were for life except that of 1706 which was during pleasure. The salary was fixed at £300 in lieu of fees in 1674. In addition, he received livery worth £34 and continued to take poundage on some goods. (fn. 4)

The clerk of the robes and wardrobes, appointed by lord chamberlain's warrant, was under the direction of the great wardrobe. He received a salary of £160. Under Charles II Richard Colinge and his son Richard held the reversion to the office by letters patent. The clerk assistant of the robes and wardrobes made £12 per annum, livery of £40 and £30 for passing accounts. (fn. 5)

The offices of comptroller and surveyor of the great wardrobe were instituted in 1668 with salaries of £300 each. Appointments were made by the Crown by letters patent under the great seal. Both offices lapsed in 1685. The office of comptroller was revived in 1729. Appointments thereafter were made by royal warrant under the sign manual. The salary, originally £500, had been reduced to £300 by 1749. There were two clerks to the surveyor. By 1703, an under clerk had been established; a second was added by 1724. By 1782 these positions were sinecures at £17 10s apiece. (fn. 6)

In addition to the principal officers of the great wardrobe, there were about 60 tradesmen, all in the gift of the master. Only a few of the tradesmen received regular remuneration from household paymasters. Of these the sergeant skinner made £54 3s 4d by 1782; the yeoman arras worker made 2s per diem; the yeoman tailor and portitior, £24 10s and £26 in livery money. The yeoman arras worker and tailor made £91 each by 1782, when they were described as sinecures. The running porter made £30 per annum (as running porter and messenger, £105 by 1782); the porter £20. The housemaid received £20; by 1782 the post was a sinecure. In addition, the embroiderer received £34 1s, the joiner £8 and the coffer maker £8 10s in livery money. (fn. 7)

The great wardrobe was abolished in 1782. (fn. 8) A wardrobes sub-department continued to exist under the lord chamberlain until the early nineteenth century, when it was folded into the office of the robes. Under the new establishment of 1782 the resident clerk of the great wardrobe made £300 per annum in salary, livery, fees and other perquisites. He was assisted by a second clerk until about 1809 and an assistant clerk until 1794 when Henry Browell became resident clerk. In 1836 the messenger to the wardrobe office made £65. (fn. 9)

Master 1660–1782

Deputy Master 1660–1782

Assistant to the Deputy Master by 1765–1782

Clerk 1660–1782

Under Clerks by 1703–1782

Clerk of the Robes and Wardrobes 1660–1782

Clerk of the Robes and Wardrobes in Reversion (Clerk Assistant) 1677–1680

Deputy Clerk of the Robes and Wardrobes

1681–1685; 1689–1697; c. 1772–?1780

Clerk Assistant of the Robes and Wardrobes 1670–1680

Resident Clerk 1782-c. 1809 (after 1794, Clerk of the Wardrobes)

Second Clerk 1782-c. 1809

Assistant Clerk 1782–1794

Comptrolling and Orderly Clerk to the Wardrobe and Jewel Office by 1806-

Inspector of the Wardrobes 1798-c. 1805

Comptroller 1668–1685; 1729–1782

Surveyor 1668–1685

Clerks to the Surveyor by 1682–?

Groom 1660–?

Storekeeper 1689–?

Sergeant Skinner [1689]–1782

Yeoman Arras Worker 1664–1782

Yeoman Tailor and Portitior c. 1668–1782

Embroiderer 1697–?; 1718–?

Joiner (from c. 1760 Joiner and Chair-maker) to the Great Wardrobe 1685–1782

Messenger 1671–?1718; 1722–1782

Messenger to the Wardrobe 1783–1837

[Deputy] Messenger 1818–1837

Porter by 1676–?1702; by 1728–?

Porter of the Wardrobes 1782–?

Under Porter by 1765–?

Deputy Porter of the Wardrobe 1818–?

Running Porter 1691–1782

House-Maid (afterwards Seamstress and House-Maid) by 1728–1782