WESTWOOD
Westwood is 2.5 km. south-west of Bradford on
Avon and 4 km. north-west of Trowbridge. (fn. 1) On the
south-west and west it adjoins Somerset and, since
1974, the new county of Avon. (fn. 2) Westwood was a
chapelry of Bradford but, because it relieved its own
poor and dealt with other civil matters, it was deemed
a poor-law, and later a civil, parish in the 19th
century. It achieved full parochial status in 1876
when it was constituted an ecclesiastical parish. (fn. 3)
The chapelry was roughly oval with a jagged eastern
boundary. It stretched 2.5 km. from west to east and
1.5 km. from north to south, and included five small
settlements, Lower Westwood near the centre,
Upper Westwood and Avoncliff to the north, Lye
Green to the north-east, and Iford, which was partly
in Somerset, to the south-west. The parish was
enlarged in 1882 when a small detached part of the
civil parish of Wingfield with Rowley, which was
already geographically in Westwood between Upper
Westwood and Lye Green, was added, and in 1885
when several detached parts of the civil parish of
Great Bradford, which were also within Westwood
and included one near Lye Green, were transferred
to it. The total of 19 a. so added increased the area
from 813 a. to 832 a. (fn. 4) That area was increased in
1934 to 387 ha. (957 a.). The additional 125 a.,
which included Elms Cross, were transferred from
the civil parishes of Bradford on Avon and Bradford
Without and comprised a tongue of land 1 km. long
by 200 m. broad east of Westwood bounded by
Westwood Road to the south-west, Wid brook to
the south-east, and Rowden Lane to the northeast. (fn. 5)
Westwood is in the angle formed by the northwards flowing river Frome, which forms the
parish and county boundary south of Iford, and
the westwards flowing Bristol Avon, which forms
the northern parish boundary. (fn. 6) North of Iford the
boundary skirts Staples hill on an arbitrary course
east of the Frome. The parish is on the limestone
plateau of 'Cotswold' Wiltshire and inclines from
north-west to south-east. The parish as constituted
before 1934 stood entirely on strata of the Great
Oolite series. The highest point, 99 m., occurs west
of the settlement at Upper Westwood which, like
that at Lye Green, is on a wide band of Forest
Marble. In the north-west part of the parish a band
of Great Oolite Limestone, a tongue of which intrudes north-westwards between Shrub down and
Avoncliff wood, curves in a semi-circle from Avoncliff to Iford. The hamlet of Iford stands beneath
the plateau scarp on the east bank of the Frome at
61 m. The Fuller's Earth, which underlies the
Oolite strata near Iford and Avoncliff, provided,
with the ample water-power yielded by the Frome
and Avon, the foundations upon which the cloth
industry of the area thrived from the Middle Ages.
Sections of the lower ragstone deposits, upon which
the Fuller's Earth rests, occur at Upper Westwood
and have been extensively quarried. Although the
clay soils of the limestone plateau were under arable
cultivation until the 19th century, in 1978 they were
more suitably under grass for the most part and
given over to dairying. On the north, south, and
west of the plateau slippage of the Fuller's Earth,
which in places carried with it scatters of lower
ragstones, caused the land to fall away sharply
to the valleys of the Frome and Avon. It was
presumably from the thick cover of woodland, which
formerly overlay much of the chapelry and in 1978
still distinguished the cliff formed by the slippage of
the Fuller's Earth, that the settlements of Upper and
Lower Westwood were named. (fn. 7) Avoncliff, which
derives its name from the steep north face of the
landslip itself, (fn. 8) stands on a limestone outcrop.
North of it the alluvial soils of the flood plain of the
Avon, which are lush meadow land, lie around
the 30 m. contour. The Hinton Charterhouse fault
is marked by the course of the lane from Iford
to Lower Westwood, whence it continues northeastwards across the parish.
Some prehistoric activity is attested by a few
artefacts of the Neolithic Period and Bronze Age
found in the north-west corner of Westwood.
Pieces of wall-plaster, roof slabs, flue tiles, much
pottery, and an inhumation found in the same area
show it to have been settled in Roman times. (fn. 9)
About 45 poll-tax payers in the chapelry were
assessed in 1377. (fn. 10) Other medieval taxation assessments show Westwood to have ranked among the
more prosperous fiscal units in Bradford hundred.
In 1545, when Westwood was part of Elstub
hundred, the contribution which the chapelry made
to the benevolence was second in the hundred only
to that of Enford. (fn. 11) Later assessments show Westwood to have remained one of the more highly rated
units in Elstub hundred. (fn. 12) In 1801 446 people lived
in the chapelry. (fn. 13) The decline to 390 in 1831 was
attributed to the absence of a large family and to the
fact that people had left the area for lack of employment there. (fn. 14) The opening of the Bradford union
workhouse at Avoncliff in 1835 accounted for the
steep rise by 1841 to 631, of whom 220 were lodged
in the workhouse. (fn. 15) In 1851 249 of the 605 people in
the chapelry were workhouse inmates. (fn. 16) Thereafter
the population increased from 469 in 1861 to 543
in 1871, an increase attributed to the return of
several families to the area. (fn. 17) It fell to 516 in 1881
and, although it had risen to 540 by 1891, had
declined steadily to 468 by 1921. There was afterwards a steady rise which accelerated during and
after the Second World War when some light
industry was introduced to the parish, and in 1951
915 people lived there. There was a temporary
decrease to 771 in 1961 but numbers had risen to
961 by 1971. (fn. 18)
All the roads and tracks which served the chapelry
in 1773 were still in use in 1978. (fn. 19) The road running
westwards through Lower Westwood to Iford was
turnpiked in 1752. (fn. 20) The short stretch of road
linking it with the Bradford-Frome road was turnpiked later. (fn. 21) In 1838 the course of a footpath from
Upper Westwood to the workhouse at Avoncliff
was set out. (fn. 22) The Kennet & Avon canal had been
constructed south of the Avon inside the northeastern boundary of the chapelry by 1804. (fn. 23) It was
carried northwards out of the chapelry across the
Avon valley by a triple-arched aqueduct designed
by John Rennie. (fn. 24) After its opening in 1810 the
canal carried coal from the Somerset coal-field to
wharves such as that at Avoncliff for distribution by
road. (fn. 25) By 1903 the porous nature of the local ragstone, from which the aqueduct was partly built,
had led to leakage. Traffic had almost ceased by the
Second World War and in 1954 the Westwood
section of the canal was drained. The canal bed was
blocked by two landslips in 1970. (fn. 26) Work on clearing
it, partly financed by the Kennet & Avon Canal
Trust, was in progress in 1978. (fn. 27) The parish was
served by that section of the Wilts., Somerset &
Weymouth Railway constructed from Bradford
along the north side of the Avon valley and opened
in 1857. There was a station on the north bank of
the river opposite the hamlet of Avoncliff called
Avoncliff Halt. (fn. 28)
The ancient centre of the village of Lower Westwood is in the angle of the lanes from Iford and
Farleigh Hungerford, in Norton St. Philip (Som.).
There stands the church with Westwood Manor set
back from the lane to the north-west, the Vicarage
due west, and the Old Vicarage south-west. In 1773
scattered settlement flanked the lane to Iford and
then, as in 1978, the eastern limit of the village did
not extend much beyond the New Inn. (fn. 29) So named
by 1822, the inn is of 19th-century construction but
contains a later-16th-century fire-place introduced
from elsewhere. (fn. 30) The cottages which cluster close
to the roadside west of the inn are externally of the
later 18th century or the 19th but incorporate earlier
features such as stone mullioned windows of the 17th
century or the early 18th. Of the former copyhold
farm-houses which stood along that lane, the Old
Malthouse (formerly the Limes), at the junction of
the lanes to Iford and Upper Westwood, is a later18th-century house with additions on the west. (fn. 31) On
the south side of the lane to Iford a school was built
in 1841 and on the north side a Baptist chapel and
Sunday school somewhat later. (fn. 32) Early in the Second
World War 94 bungalows and other buildings were
erected by the War Department north of the lane to
house people employed at Upper Westwood by the
Enfield Motor Cycle Co. After the war some houses
were built by the council which c. 1960 acquired
the bungalows. The sewage works constructed by
the War Department south-east of Iford to serve the
bungalow estate were integrated c. 1962 with a new
system for the entire parish, and a pumping station
was built near Cuffley Lane. In the later 1960s the
bungalows were replaced by a new council estate
centred on Boswell Road, Tynyngs Way, and
Hebden Road. (fn. 33) Private estates flanked the council
development in 1978.
The hamlet of Upper Westwood is strung out
along either side of a lane on the crest of the limestone ridge overlooking the Avon valley, settlement
being restricted to the north side in the 18th
century. (fn. 34) Houses of that date, as well as some of
the 19th and 20th centuries, stood there in 1978,
when a modern private housing development
occupied part of the south side of the lane. Of two
former copyhold farm-houses, Upper Westwood
Farm stands at the eastern entrance to the hamlet.
That called the Well House in 1890 is further west
along the north side of the lane, (fn. 35) from which it is
set back behind a tall stone wall pierced by a central gateway which has panelled stone gate-posts
with ball finials and wrought-iron gates. In 1978
it comprised a central later-17th-century block,
flanked by small gabled wings built in the style of
the earlier 17th century, and was occupied as two
houses called Greenhill House and Westhill. The
eastern wing represents part of a house of the later
16th century or the earlier 17th incorporated into
the new house built on the west as a gentleman's
residence by the tenant, Zachary Walter, c. 1680. (fn. 36)
That house has a principal south entrance front of
five bays in the classical style. The range is one room
deep with a staircase wing projecting northwards.
When the owner, E. H. J. Leslie, restored the house
c. 1913 he built a balancing wing on the west. (fn. 37) In
the later 18th century the house had a wooded
garden on the south side of the road. (fn. 38) The trees
were apparently felled in the later 19th century, (fn. 39)
and Leslie laid out the gardens in a formal manner. (fn. 40)
The former stable block north-east of the garden,
of the later 18th century, had by 1978 been converted to a dwelling called the Long House.
There had apparently been some settlement at
Lye Green on the north side of the lane from Upper
Westwood to Bradford by the later 18th century. (fn. 41)
Lye Green Farm, until the later 19th century
attached to a small copyhold within Westwood
manor, (fn. 42) and near-by cottages appear to be externally
of 19th- and 20th-century construction.
The former mill and its associated buildings in
1773, as in 1978, marked the eastern limit of the
settlement at Avoncliff. (fn. 43) The 17th-century Cross
Guns inn, so named by 1822, is the oldest building
in the terrace which stretches westwards to the lane
to Upper Westwood. It may be identifiable with the
public house called the Carpenters' Arms which
was converted from a house in the later 18th
century. (fn. 44) Most of the houses which complete the
terrace are externally of the later 18th century and
the 19th. The settlement may have grown somewhat
in the later 18th century when cloth began to be
manufactured at the mill and again c. 1800 when the
Kennet & Avon canal was constructed immediately
north. West of the lane to Upper Westwood are the
substantial 19th-century houses of Bath stone called
Avon Villa and Avon Cottage, and the Old Court,
the former Bradford union workhouse. (fn. 45) That
building, probably erected shortly after 1792, comprised seventeen industrial dwellings which formed
terraces round three sides of a square. (fn. 46) Apart from
the central house in the south range, which was of
three bays, the houses were one bay wide and three
storeys high. The windows on the uppermost floors
were originally of double width and lit workrooms.
When bought by the Bradford guardians in 1835
the internal walls were removed from the smaller
houses to form wards and workrooms for women on
the east and for men on the west. The central house
was occupied by the workhouse master and at the
rear a large new block was added to accommodate
a kitchen, dining-room, and chapel. (fn. 47) A gate-house
was built, possibly at the same time, on the north side
of the square.
After the few remaining inmates had been transferred to Warminster workhouse in 1917 the Bradford guardians let the empty building to the British
Red Cross Society as a hospital. (fn. 48) They sold it in
1923 to Walter Morres, who converted it to a hotel
called the Old Court. (fn. 49) Part of the east wing was
then demolished to open up the central court and
the gate-house was pulled down. In the 1950s work,
still in progress in 1978, was begun to convert the
building into flats and small houses. (fn. 50) A schoolroom
built at the southern end of the workhouse garden
in the later 19th century was demolished in the later
20th century. (fn. 51) South-west of the former workhouse
a small stone vaulted building has a central chimney
which serves two external fire-places. It is divided
into four compartments which may have been used
as punishment cells for workhouse inmates. The
original purpose of the building, in the later 18th
century and the early 19th, was probably to serve as
a drying-house for wool.
The hamlet of Iford, which straddles the county
boundary, is on either side of the road up Iford hill.
Its nucleus is Iford Manor which stands in the angle
formed by the road and the river Frome. The
associated buildings north of Iford Manor and
Iford Mill on the west bank of the Frome were in
Somerset and afterwards Avon, as was Iford bridge
which carried the lane from Iford westwards over
the Frome. (fn. 52) Although of ancient origin, the bridge,
which is built of stone and has a single arch,
is apparently of 18th-century construction. (fn. 53) The
stone figure of Britannia was placed on the southern
parapet of the bridge by H. A. Peto in the early 20th
century. (fn. 54)
Manors and other Estates.
An estate
to be identified with the later manor of WESTWOOD may have been held by Sealemudda before
983. (fn. 55) In 983 King Ethelred granted his thegn
Alfnoth 2½ mansae at Westwood. (fn. 56) In 987, however,
Ethelred granted what may be the same estate, then
comprising 3 mansae and some common land at
Farleigh Hungerford, to his huntsman Leofwine. (fn. 57)
The estate may afterwards have been taken in hand
again and possibly included in the grant of Bradford
minster and its property made by Ethelred to
Shaftesbury Abbey in 1001. (fn. 58) In the following year,
however, Westwood was apparently again in hand
and was assigned by Ethelred to his queen, Emma,
in dower. The estate was afterwards confirmed to
her by her second husband, King Cnut, and by
their son Harthacnut. (fn. 59) After Harthacnut's death
Emma gave Westwood to the church of Winchester
in his memory c. 1043. (fn. 60)
In 1086 Westwood was among the lands of the
bishop of Winchester assigned for the support of
the monks of the cathedral church. (fn. 61) The bishop
confirmed the manor to the prior of St. Swithun's
in 1284 as part of a composition between them. (fn. 62) In
the 13th century some, at least, of the profits of
Westwood may have been paid to the hoarder, who
gave up his claim to them in favour of the prior
in 1337. (fn. 63) St. Swithun's received a grant of free
warren in its demesne lands in 1300, and held the
manor until the Dissolution when it passed to the
Crown. (fn. 64)
In 1541 the Crown granted Westwood to the
newly established cathedral chapter at Winchester. (fn. 65)
In 1650 parliamentary trustees sold the manor,
including the franchisal rights, to Edward Woodford
and Westwood Manor and the demesne farm to
Elizabeth Bampfield and Henry Foster. (fn. 66) The entire
estate was afterwards restored to the chapter, which
retained it until 1861. In that year the manor was
transferred to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. (fn. 67)
The Commissioners sold their reversionary
interest in the estate, 333 a., to their tenant, G. C.
Tugwell, in 1864. (fn. 68) In 1911 the estate, enlarged to
536 a. by the acquisition of the Joyce estate at Upper
Westwood, was sold in lots. (fn. 69) The manor-house and
some land became the property of E. G. Lister
(d. 1956). He gave the National Trust protective
covenants over Westwood Manor in 1943 and
finally devised it with an endowment to the Trust,
owner in 1978. (fn. 70)
The manor, or parts of it, were apparently leased
in the earlier 13th century. Gilbert de Bolebec had
some interest in an estate at Westwood in 1235. (fn. 71)
In 1243 James de Bolebec held probably the manor
itself. (fn. 72) Between 1261 and 1265 another Bolebec,
possibly Jordan, regranted the convent land in
Westwood held at fee farm. (fn. 73) Between 1265 and
1276 the manor was granted at fee farm to Henry
de Montfort whose brother and successor at Westwood, Nicholas, surrendered the estate to St.
Swithun's between 1276 and 1286. (fn. 74) In the later
13th century the manor was leased in moieties of
which one was held by Robert Waspray and afterwards by his widow. (fn. 75) John Waspray also held of
St. Swithun's an estate, called a manor, which he
apparently returned to the convent in 1313–14. (fn. 76)
Thereafter the manor remained in hand until the
later 14th century when the demesne alone was
leased. (fn. 77) Henry Culverhouse, farmer in 1434, was
succeeded c. 1469 by Thomas Culverhouse, who
was at Westwood until at least 1485. (fn. 78) Thomas
Horton (d. 1530) was the farmer in 1518. He was
succeeded by his widow Mary (will proved 1543),
nephew Thomas Horton (d. 1549), Thomas's
widow Margery (will proved 1564), and Thomas's
son Edward (d. 1603). (fn. 79) The last Horton lessee was
Edward's grand-nephew Toby Horton, who sold
his unexpired term c. 1616 to his brother-in-law
John Farewell (d. 1642), whose widow Melior
(d. 1675) succeeded him at Westwood. (fn. 80) John Wallis,
who became lessee in 1675, was possibly a kinsman
of the Farewells. (fn. 81) In the 18th century lessees,
including the Tugwell family who acquired a lease
in the second half of that century, probably sub-let
the estate. The Tugwells remained lessees until
1864 when G. C. Tugwell bought the freehold. (fn. 82)
Westwood Manor, which comprises two old
ranges set at right angles in an L-shape, was
formerly much larger and H-shaped. (fn. 83) The north
hall range, which lies east-west, originally formed
the cross-wing of the H. In 1480 Thomas Culverhouse built a new house, the building accounts for
which have been interpreted as relating to that
surviving hall range on the basis of its length,
although the range contains no visibly 15th-century
feature. (fn. 84) The main doorway and an internal doorway are probably of the early 16th century and most
of the fittings were introduced in the earlier 17th
century by John Farewell, who inserted the upper
floor, renewed the roof, and added the porch and
turret stair. To the south-west the adjacent rooms of
the west range, which in 1978 housed the diningroom with a bedroom above, probably date from
the earlier 16th century. They appear to be of later
date than the southern part of the range. The surviving part of the original west range, which may
be of the later 15th century or the earlier 16th,
retains its original roof, part of which is painted.
That range originally had three rooms on the first
floor which appear to have been lodgings with
separate entrances before John Farewell refurbished
them as bedrooms in the earlier 17th century. The
windows and doorways have been much altered and
the first floor oriel window on the eastern elevation
was probably inserted in the early 16th century.
An eastwards extension of the north range and
a short east range survived until the later 19th
century. (fn. 85) They probably housed kitchens and
service rooms. (fn. 86) There is also structural evidence
of a former range or room extending northwards
from the west end of the north range.
After acquiring the Manor in 1911 E. G. Lister
carried out an extensive restoration, imported some
panelling and other features, (fn. 87) and added a short
kitchen wing on the west side of the west range.
He also laid out the gardens and rebuilt the
surrounding walls, including the gateway to the
forecourt in early-17th-century style. (fn. 88) A large barn
south-east of the house has walls of the 15th century
or the 16th. The roof has been renewed, possibly in
the 19th century.
In the mid 14th century William of Iford held
freely of Westwood manor a small estate in Iford and
its neighbourhood, to be identified with the later
manor of IFORD, which afterwards passed to his
brother Master Nicholas of Iford. (fn. 89) With the permission of the prior of St. Swithun's, Winchester,
Nicholas's feoffees granted the estate, then reckoned
2 carucates, to the Carthusian priory of Hinton
(Som.) c. 1374. (fn. 90) The priory held the estate, with
4 a. in Westwood acquired in 1412, (fn. 91) until the
Dissolution, when it passed to the Crown.
In 1543 the Crown granted the estate, which
by then straddled the county boundary and included
land in both Wiltshire and Somerset, to Sir John
Williams and Anthony Stringer. (fn. 92) They sold it
immediately to Thomas Horton, members of whose
family had formerly been tenants. (fn. 93) On Thomas
Horton's death in 1549 the estate, in accordance with
his will, passed successively to his wife Margery
(d. 1564) and son William. (fn. 94) On William's death in
1584 the lands passed in turn to his son William
and grandson Toby. (fn. 95)
Toby Horton and his wife Barbara sold Iford in
1625 to Sir Edward Hungerford (d.s.p. 1648), from
whom the manor, like Upavon manor, passed to his
widow Margaret (d. 1673). (fn. 96) At her death the estate
reverted to Sir Edward's nephew Sir Edward
Hungerford (d. 1711), who sold it in 1687 to Henry
Baynton(d. 1691) of Spye Park in Bromham. (fn. 97) Baynton devised it on trust for sale and in 1700 his
trustees sold Iford to William Chanler. (fn. 98)
William Chanler (will proved 1710) devised the
estate to his wife Eleanor during their son Samuel's
minority. (fn. 99) Eleanor regained it, however, when
Samuel (will proved 1733) devised Iford to her in
fee. (fn. 100) Eleanor Chanler (will proved 1743) devised
most of the estate, comprising Iford manor and
Shute's farm, to her cousin John Halliday. Halliday,
by will dated 1749, in turn devised his Iford lands
to his son Simon, who sold them in 1764 to Charles
Dingley. (fn. 101) Dingley's daughter Susannah and her
husband John Smith Meggott sold them in 1773 to
John Turner, who sold them in 1777 to John
Gaisford. (fn. 102) Gaisford (d. 1810) was succeeded by his
son the Revd. Thomas Gaisford (d. 1855), later dean
of Christ Church, Oxford, and grandson Thomas
Gaisford(d. 1898). (fn. 103)
In 1858 Thomas Gaisford sold the Iford estate,
then reckoned at 170 a. of which some 72 a. were in
Westwood, to William W. Rooke (d. 1864), who
devised it for life to his wife Julia (d. 1896). (fn. 104) Rooke's
trustees sold it in 1899 to Sarah M. Crossley, who
sold it in 1903 to her brother H. A. Peto (d. 1933). (fn. 105)
Peto, who had apparently occupied Iford Manor
since 1899, was succeeded by his nephew J. M. Peto
(later Sir Michael Peto, Bt., d. 1971). (fn. 106) During Sir
Michael's lifetime, however, the Iford estate passed
to his daughter Serena, Lady Matheson, who in
1965 sold it to Miss Elizabeth Cartwright, the
owner in 1978. (fn. 107)
Iford Manor was so called c. 1900 but until then
had been called Iford House. (fn. 108) Traces of a house
built on the site in the later 16th century survive in
the lower parts of the south range and may in their
turn incorporate features from a later-15th-century
house. Most of the 16th-century house, however,
was probably demolished when a principal range,
which faces west across the Frome valley, was
constructed to the north in the 17th century. In
the mid 18th century the west entrance front was
heightened to three storeys and given an imposing
five-bay facade of ashlar with a stone cornice and
balustraded parapet. (fn. 109) At the same date a spacious
staircase was inserted in the angle between the
south and west ranges. An extension somewhat
lower than the west range was built to the north in
the later 18th century or the earlier 19th. An
extension to the south, which may have been of
similar date, was demolished c. 1900 by H. A. Peto
who replaced it with a loggia and added a conservatory
on the east. (fn. 110) J. M. Peto much enlarged the service
range on the east side of the main block. (fn. 111)
The interior of the house retains some 17thcentury features and much 18th-century panelling.
The rooms along the south front were remodelled
by H. A. Peto to incorporate antique carved woodwork and panel paintings mostly of European
origin. (fn. 112)
The stables north-west of the house are probably
of the later 18th century but have been much
remodelled. They were occupied in 1978 as cottages
and a flat. The gardens, surrounded by woodland,
are ranged in terraces up the hillside to the south
and east of the house. They were created in an
Italianate style by H. A. Peto to display much
antique carved stonework and sculpture which he
had collected in Europe.
A small copyhold farm, in 1672 held by William
Shute, formed part of Iford manor. (fn. 113) In 1791 John
Gaisford sold Shute's farm in moieties to John
Moggeridge and Thomas Joyce (will proved 1817),
both Bradford clothiers. (fn. 114) Moggeridge's moiety is
not mentioned again and may have been acquired
by Joyce. In 1843 Maria Joyce held what were
probably the reunited moieties which then amounted
to 59 a. (fn. 115) Besides Shute's farm Maria Joyce held
copyholds totalling some 100 a. from Winchester
chapter, including that farmed from the house
called Upper Westwood Farm in the later 19th
century. (fn. 116) The copyhold land was enfranchised for
Caroline Joyce in 1867. (fn. 117) By 1911, however, the
farm, then called Upper Westwood farm, was part
of the main Westwood estate. (fn. 118)
The building which existed on the site of Upper
Westwood Farm in the later 16th century or the
earlier 17th was mostly replaced in the later 17th
century by a house with a symmetrical south front
of five bays. A porch incorporating 17th-century
stonework was, despite a later date on the cresting, (fn. 119)
probably added to the central bay of that wing
c. 1800. A low gabled wing to the east was retained
from the original house as service quarters.
In the earlier 18th century the Wickham family
had an estate at Iford which stretched over the
county boundary southwards into Farleigh Hungerford and westwards into Freshford (Som.). Elizabeth
Wickham and her son John sold it in 1721 to George
Houghton, a clothier. (fn. 120) In 1728 Houghton (will
proved 1760) settled the property on his marriage
with Anne Webb, who succeeded him at Iford. (fn. 121)
From Anne Houghton (will proved 1782) the small
estate passed to her nephew Samuel Webb (will
proved 1797), who devised it to his wife Anne for
life with remainder to his kinsman Edward Webb. (fn. 122)
Edward Webb sold the reversion to Benjamin
Browne. (fn. 123) On Anne Webb's death Browne entered
and by will proved 1822 devised the land to trustees
who sold it in 1822 to the Revd. Thomas Gaisford. (fn. 124)
It was thereafter merged with the main Iford
estate. (fn. 125)
George Houghton may have built the large house
which was attached to the estate and in 1773 stood
on the east bank of the river Frome. (fn. 126) Anne
Houghton apparently left the house immediately
after her husband's death. (fn. 127) By the early 19th
century it had apparently been pulled down, (fn. 128) and
by 1858 its site had been used as a kitchen garden
for Iford House. (fn. 129) It was still cultivated as a garden
in 1978, when fragments of the demolished house,
such as stone window-frames, could be seen incorporated in the northern side of its surrounding
wall.
Economic History.
In 1066 the land that
later became Westwood and Iford manors was
assessed for geld at 3 hides. It was worth £6 but
only £4 in 1086. That decline in value is possibly
reflected in the fact that although the estate could
support 5 ploughs in 1066, there were only 4 in 1086.
There were 3 ploughs and 3 serfs on the 2 demesne
hides, 1 plough and 6 villeins and 4 bordars on the
remaining hide. There were 6 a. of meadow and
woodland 2 furlongs by 1 furlong. (fn. 130)
In the early 14th century the overall value of
Westwood manor was some £20, a sum which
included assessed rents of £7, and a rent of 7½
sticks of eels from the tenant of that moiety of the
mill which formed part of John Waspray's estate.
Robert Waspray's share of the manor was then
farmed at £3 10s. yearly, and John Waspray's at £3
but was apparently worth £6 upon improvement. (fn. 131)
In 1649 Westwood manor as then constituted was
worth £177, again upon improvement. (fn. 132)
The entire manor of Westwood was let at farm
during the 13th century and the early 14th. (fn. 133) It
was only for a brief period after c. 1314 that it functioned within the inter-manorial economy of the
estates of St. Swithun's Priory. In 1314 oxen were
sold to the reeve of Enford, and in 1324 122 sheep
were sent from Westwood to Enford after shearing. (fn. 134)
The demesne was farmed from at least 1365. The
farm, then £7 yearly, gradually fell over the next century and by 1469 had become fixed at £5, a sum that
remained constant until at least the 18th century. (fn. 135)
Probably in the early 14th century there were
124 a. of arable in demesne scattered throughout
the open fields. There was a pasture for between
twelve and sixteen oxen, 13 a. of meadow of which
3 a. were apparently mown every other year, and
pasture for 250 second-year sheep. That portion of
the estate held by John Waspray contained 89 a., of
which 60 a. were arable, and pasture for 100 secondyear sheep. (fn. 136) In 1649 the demesne farm contained
192 a. Of that there were 37 a. of meadow, 30 a. of
pasture in inclosures, and 33 a. of 'down' pasture.
Of the 67 a. of arable, 30 a. were in open fields and
37 a. inclosed. (fn. 137) The farm, which extended to most
parts of the chapelry, was worked from Westwood
Manor and reckoned at 337 a. in 1792, an acreage
which remained more or less constant until the farm
was offered for sale in lots in the early 20th century. (fn. 138)
The arable and pasture mostly seem to have been
inclosed by the mid 17th century. (fn. 139) In 1847, when
the arable was reckoned at 413 a., the largest parcels
were in Great down south of Avoncliff wood, in
fields and furlongs east of the lane from Upper to
Lower Westwood, and in Westwood and Iford
fields in the south-west corner of the chapelry.
Pasture, 242 a., was on Shrub down in the west part
of the chapelry, in Elm Hayes north-east, in Cow
leaze south, in Hay grove and New leaze south-west,
and in Further and Hither Bustings east of Lower
Westwood. (fn. 140)
There were 11 free tenants within that part of
Westwood manor held by Robert Waspray in the
later 13th century or the early 14th: 1 held 1 virgate,
3, including the tenant who held a moiety of the mill,
½ virgate each, and the remaining 7 no more than
a few acres each. Of the 9 unfree tenants 2 held
½ virgate each for 3s. 4d. yearly, and 7, who held
a few acres each, similarly paid money rents. (fn. 141) Two
more lists of tenants, possibly of similar date, perhaps
refer to the remaining moiety of the manor. The
first, which is certainly to be identified with John
Waspray's portion of Westwood, records 6 free
tenants and 6 villeins of whom 2 held ½ virgate each
and 4 were cottars. The second list records 14 free
tenants, of whom 2 held 1 virgate each, 2, including
the tenant who held the remaining moiety of the
mill, ½ virgate, and the rest a few acres each. The
duties of the 3 unfree tenants within that portion of
the manor were confined to mowing, haymaking,
hoeing, and hurdle-making. (fn. 142)
Early inclosure assisted the emergence of fairly
compact copyhold farms which occupied an area
roughly in the centre of the chapelry between Upper
and Lower Westwood. (fn. 143) In 1649, of the sixteen
copyholds totalling some 190 a. within Westwood
manor, nine were small farms of between 10 a. and
40 a. (fn. 144) Osmund Gibbs's copyhold, which contained
a quarry, is identifiable with the later Greenhill
farm, reckoned at 34 a. in 1692. (fn. 145) Zachary Walter,
the tenant from 1680 to 1685, built Greenhill
House on it. (fn. 146) G. C. Tugwell, the lessee of the
manorial demesne, acquired the copyhold, 50 a.,
between 1843 and 1847, and it was enfranchised
for him in 1850. (fn. 147) Although after 1864 it formed
part of the Tugwells' freehold estate at Westwood,
Greenhill farm retained its identity and in 1911 was
a dairy farm of 61 a. (fn. 148) William Hayward's copyhold,
which also included a quarry, was reckoned at 40 a.
in 1649. (fn. 149) The land is possibly that to which Thomas
Joyce was admitted in 1815. (fn. 150) The Joyce family's
copyhold estate, worked from the house called
Upper Westwood Farm from the later 19th century,
was enlarged by the addition of more copyhold land
during the 19th century, and by 1847 contained,
besides the quarry north-west of the farm-house,
100 a. The land, farmed with the freehold Shute's
farm, 59 a., was enfranchised in 1867. (fn. 151) Upper
Westwood farm, 112 a., was devoted to dairying in
1911. (fn. 152) In 1792 18 tenants held 234 a. as copyhold
of the manor, 43 held 239 a. in 1847, and 29 held
160 a. in 1862. The reversions were sold by the
Ecclesiastical Commissioners between 1864 and
1873. (fn. 153)
Westwood, once thickly wooded, was included
within the Wiltshire portion of Selwood forest
until the early 14th century. From that time Avoncliff wood, 35–40 a., formed part of the manorial
demesne. (fn. 154) Addy (by 1890 Becky Addy) wood was
partly in the hands of freeholders and partly of three
copyholders in the 19th century. (fn. 155) Both Avoncliff,
54 a., and Becky Addy, 36 a., woods were part of
the Westwood Manor estate in 1911. (fn. 156)
In the 15th century two quarries, one described
as in Mandeville's grove and the other held by the
Doggett family, were let at 2s. and 4s. respectively. (fn. 157)
That in Mandeville's grove had been leased with
the demesne by 1482, as apparently had the other
by the earlier 16th century. (fn. 158) They were somewhere
on the Bath Oolite which extends north-east to
south-west across the chapelry. Both had ceased to
be used by 1649. (fn. 159) Of the two quarries then worked,
one was part of the copyhold later called Upper
Westwood farm. (fn. 160) It was in woodland some distance
north-west of the farm-house and was still worked
in 1862 when the copyholder, who paid £3 yearly to
the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, sub-let. (fn. 161)
William Godwin was a quarry-master at Westwood in the later 19th century and the firm of
Godwin Bros, still existed there in 1903. (fn. 162) Another
firm, Randell, Saunders & Co. Ltd., became part
of Bath Stone Firms Ltd. in 1887. (fn. 163) The Bath &
Portland Group Ltd. still owned the quarries west of
the lane from Lower to Upper Westwood in 1978.
Stone was transported from Upper Westwood to
the canal wharf at Avoncliff by means of a tramway
in the later 19th century and the earlier 20th. (fn. 164) The
quarries, which then, as in 1978, were entered
north-west of Upper Westwood Farm, were taken
over in 1939 by the Ministry of Supply. In 1941 the
Enfield (later Royal Enfield) Motor Cycle Co. of
Redditch (Worcs.) moved there and cleared the
underground workings to make factory accommodation. During the Second World War fire-control
instruments were made there for the Directorate of
Instrument Production and afterwards parts for
motor-cycles. About 1969 the firm, then called
Enfield Precision Engineers and owned by the firm
of E. & H. P. Smith, vacated the quarries, which
extended some considerable distance underground
on either side of the lane from Upper to Lower
Westwood. The easterly part was leased from the
Bath & Portland Group Ltd. by Darlington Mushrooms of Bradford on Avon and mushrooms were
grown there from 1934 to 1959. Although the firm
was still lessee in 1978, mushrooms were then no
longer produced. In 1978 only a small area of the
quarries south of Upper Westwood Farm was worked
intermittently for the Bath & Portland Group Ltd.
Part was then let to a local engineering firm, Willett
& Wilkins. Other surface buildings were also let
separately. (fn. 165)
Iford manor was worth £8 a year in the mid 16th
century. Of that sum £4 represented assessed rents
from Iford and £2 those from Westwood. Three
tenants in Westwood and one in Freshford were
then attached to the estate. (fn. 166) The manor apparently
had no open field of its own and shared in those of
Westwood. (fn. 167)
The position of the estate at the confluence of the
Frome and Avon, which provided ample waterpower, and its proximity to supplies of Fuller's Earth
gave it an importance incommensurable with its
size. In 1700 it contained, besides mills at Iford and
Avoncliff, (fn. 168) some 100 a., some of which lay on the
western bank of the Frome in Somerset but most
around Iford House and in the north-west corner
of Westwood chapelry. (fn. 169) It was reduced in size by
the loss in 1743 of Avoncliff mills and in 1791 of
Shute's farm, 42 a., the only copyhold of any size,
which occupied the land between Iford and Avoncliff and included a freestone quarry. (fn. 170) Iford mill
was sub-let and the remaining 45 a. became, and
remained in the 20th century, a gentleman's estate. (fn. 171)
Apart from the small industrial concerns at Upper
Westwood, the parish was entirely devoted to
agriculture in 1978. On the numerous small farms,
none of which was owner-occupied, (fn. 172) dairying
predominated. Most inhabitants then worked outside Westwood in Bristol, Bath, or Trowbridge.
Mills.
In 1086 a mill which paid 10s. was attached
to the estate held by the church of Winchester at
Westwood. (fn. 173) It probably stood on the Avon. In the
later 13th century a moiety of the mill and ½ virgate
were held freely by Reynold of Cliff for 6s. yearly,
and a moiety and another ½ virgate by Henry of
Cliff who paid yearly to St. Swithun's Priory 12s.
and 7½ sticks of eels and owed suit of court at
Westwood manor. (fn. 174) No more is known of either
moiety.
Nicholas of Iford conveyed a mill as part of an
estate at Iford to Hinton Priory in the later 14th
century. The mill thereafter descended with the
manor of Iford and was still part of the estate in
1978. (fn. 175)
The position of Iford mill in an area endowed with
the necessary natural resources for cloth making
presumably attracted John Horton (will proved
1497) to become tenant there in the later 15th
century. While most of the Iford estate lay in
Wiltshire, the mill stood just within the parish of
Hinton Charterhouse in Somerset. It may have been
John Horton who converted the mill for fulling
purposes and established a cloth manufacturing
business there. (fn. 176) It was due, however, to the acumen
of his son Thomas (d. 1530), one of the most
successful clothiers of his time, that the business
flourished. (fn. 177) When Thomas's nephew Thomas
acquired the freehold from the Crown in 1543 the
mill-house contained four fulling stocks. (fn. 178) The last
Horton to own Iford, Toby, took no active part in
the manufacture of woollen cloth there, as far as is
known, and soon after acquiring the mill let the two
fulling stocks at the eastern end of the mill-house
to John Yerbury (will dated 1614) and his sons John
and William. The Yerbury family's tenancy presumably ended in 1615 when the survivor, John
the younger, became a lunatic. (fn. 179) In 1650 the Bradford clothier Paul Methuen was tenant of the same
two stocks, and from 1687 the Trowbridge clothier
William Brewer, said to be the leading manufacturer
of medleys in England, and his son William (will
dated 1709) were tenants. (fn. 180) The younger William's
widow assigned the lease to Thomas Harding, whose
family leased the mill and all four of its stocks until
1749. (fn. 181) The entire mill was let to Samuel Perkins in
1767 and to Thomas Perkins in 1787. (fn. 182) It was still
used for fulling in 1839 when Sarah Perkins was
tenant. (fn. 183)
The main range of Iford mill retains some 16thor earlier-17th-century features including a windbraced roof. (fn. 184) The four stocks which the mill
formerly contained seem to have been disposed in
sets of two, each set driven by a separate waterwheel, at the east and west ends. (fn. 185) The mill, which
incorporated the mill-house, was extended westwards in the later 17th century. There were
presumably in the 16th century, as in the 17th and
18th centuries, associated industrial buildings near
by including a clay-house, dye-house, and dryingroom. Iford House itself contained a room used as
a beating-loft. (fn. 186) Male & Marchant of Freshford
reconstructed and refitted the mill c. 1965 as a house
for Miss Elizabeth Cartwright (fn. 187) who lived there in
1978.
A mill or mills at Avoncliff formed part of Iford
manor in the later 17th century. Avoncliff mills, as
the property was then known, and some meadow land
were sold in 1700 with the manor by Henry Baynton's trustees to William Chanler. (fn. 188) By will proved
1743 Chanler's widow Eleanor devised the mills to
Margaret, wife of Gabriel Goldney. (fn. 189) Margaret
Goldney was still owner in 1762 but in the following
year the property was bought by Richard Stratton,
a fuller. (fn. 190) Stratton sold it in 1767 to Edward Hall,
who in 1768 sold it to Joseph H. Saunders. (fn. 191)
Saunders sold it in 1781 to John Yerbury of Bradford. (fn. 192) Yerbury (will proved 1825) devised the
property to his sons Francis and John as tenants in
common. (fn. 193) In 1853 Francis sold his moiety to John
(d. 1858). (fn. 194) In 1860 J. A. Wheeler was owner and so
remained until 1878. (fn. 195) The mill was owned by George
Harman c. 1885 but by the end of the century was
the property of William Selwyn, whose firm still
operated it in 1939. (fn. 196)
The conversion from grist- to fulling-mill in the
18th century may have been a gradual one. In 1731
a dye-house was attached to the grist-mill, and 10
years later a cloth-worker occupied a near-by cottage.
The process was complete in 1763 when, besides the
dye-house, there was a stove. Stove and dye-house,
however, had been converted to two dwellings by
1781. (fn. 197) In the late 18th century and the early 19th
the mill was let on a series of short tenancies in
some of which the elder John Yerbury, as owner,
apparently had some interest. The cloth manufacturing business of John Moggeridge, Yerbury's
son-in-law, and Moggeridge's partner Thomas
Joyce, who became tenants in 1790, extended beyond
Avoncliff to near-by areas. (fn. 198) It was presumably they
who further mechanized the cloth making process at
Avoncliff by installing machinery driven by waterpower, as far as is known the first instance in the
area, c. 1791. It was perhaps to provide both
housing and workshops that the U-shaped building
called Avoncliff or 'Ankley' Square was built on
the south bank of the Avon after 1792 on land
bought by Moggeridge and Joyce in 1791. (fn. 199) In 1798
Avoncliff mill itself was no longer connected with
Moggeridge's and Joyce's cloth making business,
but the 'houses' at Avoncliff were still the property
of Thomas Joyce c. 1814. (fn. 200) Another tenant installed
dressing and brushing machinery in the mill in
1804. (fn. 201) From 1860 and still in 1939 the owners of
the mill manufactured flock there. (fn. 202)
In 1811 Avoncliff mill had four floors and two
wheels, one of which drove four pairs of stocks and
the other the machinery. By 1878 a collection of
factory buildings had grown up around the mill on
the south bank of the river at Avoncliff on the east
side of the lane leading to Upper Westwood. Besides
the main four-storeyed mill, to which power was
supplied by a turbine wheel, perhaps the horizontal
turbine wheel extant in 1978, there were also a south
mill, a tearing and willying shop of two floors, and
a three-storeyed hot-air stove. By 1978 the main
mill, then called the Old Mill or Weavers' Mill, had,
although still displaying features of 18th-century
date, been much reduced in size and height and
converted to a private dwelling. The south mill was
then also a dwelling, but the other buildings, including a tall brick and stone chimney, were ruinous.
Local Government
In the 13th century
the prior of St. Swithun's claimed, by virtue of
various royal grants, to be quit of suit of shire and
hundred at the court of Bradford hundred, in which
Westwood was then included. (fn. 203) Attempts were
apparently made to compel the prior to attend the
sheriff's tourns at Bradford in the early 14th
century. (fn. 204) Records of courts held twice yearly at
Westwood show the attempts to have been unsuccessful. At those courts the prior held view of
frankpledge as well as exercising manorial jurisdiction, but, as far as is known, claimed no other
franchise. (fn. 205) The attendance of the prior's men at
the Bradford tourn was successfully enforced in
1439 but from the later 15th century the prior seems
to have exercised unchallenged his right to hold the
view at Westwood. (fn. 206)
From the 15th century to the 18th courts were
called views of frankpledge and courts and during
the 19th usually views of frankpledge, courts leet,
and courts of the manor. (fn. 207) During the 17th and 18th
centuries courts were generally held once a year in
late summer or autumn, and in the 19th once a year
or every other year in the early summer. The last
known was held in 1863. At a view in 1540 Westwood
tithing, which comprised Westwood and Iford
manors and was conterminous with the chapelry,
was enjoined to repair roads at Upper and Lower
Westwood, (fn. 208) but from the 17th century business
there was mostly formal, such as the election of a
tithingman for the following year. Business at the
manorial courts was concerned with the regulation
of small agricultural matters, the presentments of
nuisances, and copyhold surrenders and admittances.
Records of courts for Iford manor survive for
various years in the later 17th century. (fn. 209) The courts
were held once or twice yearly in spring and autumn.
In 1676 and 1677 the rails round the mill and its
pond were ordered to be repaired, and in the 1680s
the owner of Iford House was yearly enjoined to
repair the road between Iford bridge and mill.
Westwood chapelry apparently relieved its own
poor by the early 19th century. (fn. 210) Churchwardens'
accounts for 1798–1869 and vestry minutes for
1802–72, entered in the same book, show Westwood
to have pursued a vigorous policy in dealing with
paupers. (fn. 211) The instigator and chief exponent of that
policy was John Spackman, tenant farmer at Manor
farm, who as a result incurred much enmity among
local labourers and paupers. (fn. 212) A board of health
consisting of six parishioners, appointed in 1831 to
take precautionary measures against cholera, convened a sub-committee which reported that Westwood was generally in a clean and healthy state.
In 1835 Spackman was instrumental in setting up
Bradford poor-law union in which Westwood was
included in the same year. (fn. 213) Spackman, too, was
probably responsible for the selection as a workhouse
and subsequent purchase of the building in the
north of Westwood called Avoncliff Square. (fn. 214)
Declining numbers of inmates in the early 20th
century resulted in those remaining being transferred to Warminster workhouse in 1917. The
empty building was sold in 1923. (fn. 215)
Church.
The royal grant of 1001 to Shaftesbury
Abbey of a large estate centred on Bradford probably
included land to be identified with the later manor
of Westwood. Although Westwood was alienated in
the following year, it remained dependent ecclesiastically on the church of Bradford as a parochial
chapelry with rights of baptism, marriage, and burial
until the later 19th century. (fn. 216) The rectors and, after
1349, the vicars of Bradford appointed chaplains and,
later, assistant curates nominated either to Bradford,
or to Bradford and Westwood, or to Westwood and
one or more of Bradford's other chapelries. (fn. 217)
Because the vicars took the great tithes of the
chapelry after 1349 they were sometimes called
rectors of Westwood. (fn. 218) The chapelry is expressly
mentioned in 1299 when John Waspray, who held
Westwood manor at farm, presented a chaplain to
the ordinary for institution. (fn. 219) By what right he did
so is unknown, and his presentee was apparently not
instituted. Since he restored the 'advowson of the
church' of Westwood with the manor to St. Swithun's
Priory in 1313–14, the presentation may possibly
represent an attempt by the convent, as lord of
Westwood, to create an independent benefice there. (fn. 220)
In 1876 Westwood was detached from the
vicarage of Bradford and constituted a separate
ecclesiastical parish and a perpetual curacy in the
gift of Bristol chapter. (fn. 221) Under the Act of 1868,
however, the living was at once deemed a vicarage
and its incumbent styled a vicar. (fn. 222) In 1975, with the
benefices of Holy Trinity and Christ Church, both
in Bradford, Monkton Farleigh with South Wraxall,
and Winsley, the vicarage became part of Bradford
group ministry. (fn. 223)
When a vicarage was ordained at Bradford in 1349
the entire profits of the chapelry of Westwood were
assigned to the vicar. They then included all the
tithes of the chapelry and perhaps the 18 a. of glebe
mentioned in 1704. (fn. 224) The value of the chapelry was
always included in that of Bradford vicarage. (fn. 225) In
1771, however, the chapelry property was let to a
layman separately from that of the vicarage at £54
yearly. (fn. 226) In 1843 the tithes of Westwood were
commuted for a rent-charge of £190. A rent-charge
of £1 8s. was allotted to the incumbent of Farleigh
Hungerford for the tithes from 4 a., apparently
originally part of Farleigh, to which he was entitled
in Westwood. (fn. 227) When the chapelry became a parish
in 1876 the rent-charge and the glebe lands were
allotted to the incumbent of the new benefice. (fn. 228) In
the following year the Ecclesiastical Commissioners
provided an additional yearly endowment of £125. (fn. 229)
The vicar of Westwood still had some 18 a. of glebe
in 1978. (fn. 230)
Possibly in 1349, and certainly in 1704, there was
a glebe-house attached to the chapelry. (fn. 231) In 1843 it
was described as a cottage and stood south-west of
the church. (fn. 232) Its unsuitability led the vicar of Bradford to remark in 1864 that, if better accommodation
could be provided at Westwood, an assistant curate
might be persuaded to live there. (fn. 233) In 1870 it was
proposed that the cottage be refurbished but in
1877–8, with £1,500 granted by the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners, a new house for the vicarage was
built south-west of the church by Voisey & Wills of
Bristol. (fn. 234) That house was sold in 1965 and replaced
by another immediately east where the vicar lived
in 1978. (fn. 235)
Few assistant curates, at least from the later 17th
century, seem to have remained long. The curacy
of Caleb Bevan, who apparently lived at Westwood,
was unusual in lasting from 1622 to 1668. (fn. 236) From
the late 19th century, at least, the vicars of Westwood
frequently served as chaplains to the Bradford union
workhouse at Avoncliff. (fn. 237) On Census Sunday in
1851 there was only one Sunday service. Over the
past year, however, an average congregation of 70
had attended morning, and 100 afternoon, services. (fn. 238)
The difficulty the vicar of Bradford encountered in
persuading assistant curates to live at Westwood in
the 1860s apparently did not result in spiritual
torpor within the chapelry. Services with sermons
were held at the church twice on Sundays in 1864
and were attended by an average congregation of
80 in the mornings and 100 in the afternoons.
Congregations were similarly large at services held
on Christmas day and Good Friday. Holy Communion, then celebrated at Christmas, Easter, and
Whitsun and in every other month, was received by
an average of fifteen communicants. (fn. 239)
The church of ST. MARY THE VIRGIN, so
called in the later 19th century but in the early 14th
dedicated to All Saints, (fn. 240) is built of ashlar rubble
and has a chancel, nave with short north aisle, and
west tower. (fn. 241) A window, reset piscina, and a doorway in the chancel are all of the 13th century. The
narrow three-bay nave perhaps retains 12th- or
13th-century proportions, and masonry of early
character survives in the lower part of the north
wall. It has no doorway either to north or south. A
lancet window in the north wall of the chancel was
blocked when the church was enlarged in the later
15 th century by the addition of a north aisle entered
through a two-bay arcade. That aisle served as a
chapel and a squint was inserted to provide a view
of the high altar. The coloured decoration on the
aisle walls was obliterated during a 19th-century
restoration. It may have been at the same time that
the west half of the aisle ceiling, which was of carved
oak, was replaced by one of lath and plaster. A plain
wooden ceiling to match the original east half was
put up in 1968. (fn. 242) It has been suggested that the
15th-century glass in the chancel windows was
moved there from those of the north aisle. (fn. 243) The
south nave wall was probably rebuilt when the
tower was constructed by Thomas Horton(d.1530). (fn. 244)
The tower, elaborately designed with panelled faces
and embattled parapets, has an octagonal stair turret
with a dome at the south-east corner. The ornamental plasterwork of the nave ceiling may date
from 1786. The south wall of the chancel was
rebuilt c. 1840. An extensive restoration, during
which the west gallery erected c. 1696 was dismantled
and the chapel repewed, was undertaken by W. H.
Jones, vicar of Bradford 1851–84 and a noted
antiquary, and the church was reopened in 1856. (fn. 245)
The font is of the early 13 th century and has an
elaborate 16th-century cover, suspended from an
iron bracket, which imitates the cupola on the stair
turret of the tower. Above the font on the west wall
of the nave is a carved stone devil of the early 16th
century, known as the 'old lad of Westwood' and
'the Westwood imp', beneath which is inscribed
'Resist me and I will flee'. The pulpit, dated 1607,
is said to have been brought from Norton St. Philip. (fn. 246)
The 17th-century screen probably served originally
as the communion rail. A large oval plaque by T.
King of Bath on the south nave wall commemorates
Richard Cox (d. 1789).
The plate was lost in the earlier 19th century and
by 1891 had been replaced by a chalice, paten, and
flagon of plated metal. (fn. 247) In 1978 Westwood had,
besides a modern set of plate, an antique chalice and
paten given by Sir Michael Peto, Bt. (fn. 248) The church
had four bells in 1553. In the earlier 20th century,
as in 1978, there was still a ring of four: (i), 1677,
is by John (II) Lott of Warminster; (ii) and (iii) are
by Henry Jefferies (fl. mid 16th cent.) of Bristol;
(iv), possibly of the later 15th century, was cast at
Bristol. All were recast between 1884 and 1886 by
Llewellins & James of Bristol. (fn. 249) Registrations of
baptisms are extant from 1666, but are lacking from
1697 to 1726; those of burials are entered from 1669
and are complete; and marriage entries survive from
1672, but are lacking from 1685 to 1727. (fn. 250)
Roman Catholicism.
A chapel of ease,
served from Trowbridge, was founded at Westwood
in 1940 and was attended by Irish workers building
the factory in the quarry at Upper Westwood. It
closed c. 1942 after the work was finished. (fn. 251)
Protestant Nonconformity.
Baptists
registered a house at Westwood in 1814. (fn. 252) What was
probably the same group certified another house
there in 1817. (fn. 253) The meeting flourished and a chapel
at Lower Westwood was opened in 1865. (fn. 254) It was
connected with the Particular Baptist meeting at
Back (now Church) Street, Trowbridge, later called
Emmanuel chapel, of which the Westwood attenders
were considered members. (fn. 255) A room for a Sunday
school was built north-west of the chapel and
opened in 1885. (fn. 256) Some fifteen people attended the
chapel c. 1890 when there was also a flourishing
Sunday school. (fn. 257) The chapel was still affiliated to
Emmanuel chapel, Trowbridge, in 1950. (fn. 258) In 1978
the chapel was used as a studio and the schoolroom
as a store.
A Wesleyan Methodist group at Upper Westwood
originated c. 1840. Early meetings were held at the
farm-house, in 1978 called Greenhill House, where
the group's deacon, John Tanner, lived. (fn. 259) In 1851
an average of 20 people in the afternoons, and 60
in the evenings, had attended meetings there over the
past year. (fn. 260) The group opened a chapel at the
western end of the hamlet in 1862. (fn. 261) It was closed
before 1971 (fn. 262) and by 1978 had been converted to
a private dwelling.
Education.
The only school in Westwood
chapelry in the early 19th century was a Sunday
school. (fn. 263) In 1841, however, a day-school was built
on the south side of the lane leading from Lower
Westwood to Iford. (fn. 264) In 1859 a mistress taught
30 boys and girls at the school, which was affiliated
to the National Society and supported mainly by
subscriptions. Some ten or fifteen children from the
chapelry then attended a school run by dissenters at
Freshford. (fn. 265) On return day in 1871 thirteen boys
and twelve girls attended the Westwood school. (fn. 266)
The workhouse children attended a school in the
workhouse grounds in the later 19th century. (fn. 267) In
1908 an average of 92 pupils, a much increased
number which may have resulted from the closure
of the workhouse school, had attended the National
school over the past year. Average attendance
remained fairly steady until 1913 but afterwards
showed a gradual decrease until c. 1930. Thereafter
figures dwindled rapidly and in 1938 only an average
of 27 children had attended during the past year. (fn. 268)
The school proved inadequate for the increased
numbers resulting from Westwood's growth after
the Second World War and was closed in 1976. It
was replaced in that year by Westwood with Iford
County Primary School at the north end of Boswell
Road where 120 children from Westwood and the
surrounding area were taught in 1978. (fn. 269)
Charities for the Poor.
None for the
chapelry is known.