CHILMARK
Chilmark is 18 km. west of Salisbury. (fn. 1) It is a
rectangular parish on a north and south axis and
measures 4.5 km. by 3 km., 1,299 ha. (3,210a.). Its
name could suggest that, when the king granted
Chilmark in the early 10th century, part, if not all,
of its boundary was marked by pegs or poles. (fn. 2) A
description of Tisbury's boundaries in the mid 11th
century refers to Chilmark, but the mark made by a
pole which gave its name to the parish may not have
been on its boundary with Tisbury. (fn. 3) The boundary
with Teffont Evias is marked by a stream, that with
Stockton is on the watershed of the Nadder and the
Wylye and coincides with a prehistoric ditch, and
that with Fonthill Bishop follows a ridge for a short
distance, but the boundary observes relief nowhere
else. Stones mark part of the boundary with Teffont
Magna. The boundaries enclosed the tithings of
Chilmark and Ridge, respectively c. 2,180 a. (882 ha.)
and c. 1,030 a. (417 ha.) in 1837. A mill and 5 a. at
Upper Chicksgrove were a detached part of the
parish and an enclave in Tisbury (fn. 4) until 1885, when
they were transferred to East Tisbury. (fn. 5)
The whole parish is in the Nadder valley. It slopes
down to its south-east corner whence the boundary
stream flows south-eastwards, but the geology and
landscape of its north and south parts are different. (fn. 6) . The northern edge of a greensand ridge separates
the larger northern part, including Chilmark village, with the characteristics of Salisbury Plain, from
the rest, including Ridge Hill, which has the characteristics of the Vale of Wardour. North of the greensand ridge chalk outcrops, overlain by clay-with-flints
on the watershed in the extreme north, c. 200 m.
The land is divided into ridges, over 152 m. on
Chilmark down and in two places further south
on the border with Fonthill Bishop, by dry valleys
radiating from the source of the boundary stream
which after wet weather rises in Chilmark village.
Gravel is deposited in the main valley, followed by
the Street and Hindon Lane, which divides at the
north-west end of the lane into northern and western
arms. The Upper Greensand ridge is more pronounced in the west part of the parish, where Ridge
Hill reaches 189 m., than the east, 137 m., where it
is broken by the stream. South of it bands of Gault,
used at Ridge for brickmaking, (fn. 7) and Lower Greensand cross the parish. Middle and Lower Purbeck
outcrop in the southernmost part of the parish,
reaching over 152 m. on the border with Tisbury,
where the relief is as broken as in the north. In the
south-east corner the boundary stream, below 91 m.,
has exposed Upper Portland beds, limestone highly
valued for building and much quarried and mined. (fn. 8)
Building stone from the area, also found in Teffont
Evias and Tisbury, (fn. 9) has become known as Chilmark
stone. The quarries and mines in Chilmark have
since 1936 been used by the R.A.F. for storage. The
whole parish is suitable for both arable and pasture.
The south part, in which there were open fields and
common pastures in the Middle Ages, had nearly all
been inclosed and divided into small fields by 1631.
Much of the open fields and common downs on the
chalk was inclosed later, mostly in the late 18th century and early 19th. (fn. 10) In 1773 there was a racecourse
on Ridge down. (fn. 11) The chalkland, an area of sheep
runs and large arable fields, has retained its open
appearance, different from the south where fields
remain smaller and there is much more woodland.
Several main roads cross the north part of the
parish east and west. The Roman road thought to
link Old Salisbury and Winchester with the Mendip
Hills may cross the northernmost tip. (fn. 12) A ridge way,
sometimes called the Grovely ridge way, leading
from Wilton along the Nadder-Wylye watershed,
seems to have followed the boundary ditch and to
have crossed the north-west corner, whence it turned
north-westwards towards the Roman road. The Ox
Drove, possibly part of the ancient Harrow Way
along which cattle are thought to have been driven
from Somerset to London, crosses the parish to join
the Grovely ridge way a little east of the boundary. (fn. 13)
The Ox Drove crossing Chicklade may have been
part of it, (fn. 14) but when milestones were erected in
1750 a road across the downs of Dinton and Teffont
Magna, the Ox Drove through Chilmark to Chicklade Bottom in Fonthill Bishop, and the road
through Chicklade village were the components of a
main Wilton-Mere road. (fn. 15) In the late 18th century
that road, which was 110 ft. wide in Chilmark in the
early 19th century, (fn. 16) was possibly surpassed in
importance by the lower Wilton—Mere road linking
the villages between Barford St. Martin and Hindon
and crossing Chilmark a little north of the church.
That road was turnpiked in 1761 (fn. 17) with a gate where
Hindon Lane joined it, (fn. 18) and disturnpiked in 1870. (fn. 19)
In 1761 the Amesbury—Mere road across the downs
was also turnpiked. (fn. 20) Its course across Chilmark was
roughly that of the Grovely ridge way: (fn. 21) west of
Chicklade Bottom the old Wilton—Mere main road
became the turnpike road. (fn. 22) From 1936 the Amesbury—Mere road has been part of the main LondonExeter road. (fn. 23) From the 18th century or earlier it was
joined outside the parish by Cow Drove leading
northwards from Chilmark village. In the south
roads have linked Chilmark and Ridge with Tisbury, and Chilmark with Fovant, from 1773 or
earlier (fn. 24) but that linking Chilmark and Ridge is the
only east—west road. A road diverging from the
Chilmark—Fovant road towards Lower Chicksgrove
in Tisbury, Sutton Row in Sutton Mandeville, and
Ebbesborne Wake went out of use in Chilmark in
the mid 19th century. (fn. 25)
Archaeological discoveries of the Bronze Age have
been made in the north and south parts of the
parish, (fn. 26) and Roman remains were discovered west of
Ridge when Fonthill House was built. (fn. 27) Grim's
ditch, which marks the parish boundary, is likely to
be later than the Roman road with which it is intertwined. North-east of Chilmark village a prehistoric
field system of 130 a., near which is a barrow, is
partly in Teffont Magna. (fn. 28)
Chilmark may have been a village in the 10th century. (fn. 29) It is on the gravel deposited by the stream
which the Street follows, and is nucleated. Mooray
and Portash have long been subsidiary settlements
south of it. Ridge, first mentioned in the 12th century, (fn. 30) is on the greensand, takes its name from the
physical feature on which it stands, and is grouped
less closely than Chilmark. There had been settlement beside the lower Wilton—Mere road by 1773, (fn. 31)
but further settlement there and settlement in Cow
Drove, in isolated farmsteads in the north, at Fonthill House, and near the quarries has been a feature
only of the later 19th century and the 20th. (fn. 32) Until
the 20th much building in Chilmark and Ridge
tithings was with Chilmark stone: bricks made at
Ridge were little used in the parish.
The parish was perhaps of below average wealth
in the early 14th century, (fn. 33) of above average in the
16th (fn. 34) and 17th. (fn. 35) It had 136 poll-tax payers in
1377. (fn. 36) There were 320 or more inhabitants in
1676, (fn. 37) 406 in 1801, and 418 in 1811 when 315 lived
in Chilmark tithing. The population had increased
to 593 by 1841, when 425 lived in Chilmark, and to
619 by 1851, when 441 lived in Chilmark. It reached
a peak of 698 in 1871, but had quickly declined to
411 by 1901. There were 332 inhabitants in 1931.
New housing thereafter led to an increase, to 405 in
1951. (fn. 38) The population was 380 in 1971, 405 in
1981. (fn. 39)

Chilmark in 1839
The focus of Chilmark village is the wide part of
the Street, sometimes called the Cross, where Barberry and Beckett's Lane make a crossroads with
it. (fn. 40) The church is at the north end of Barberry, the
old rectory house (fn. 41) is south of it, and the demesne
farmhouse of Chilmark manor, Manor Farm, now
Chilmark Manor, is on the west side of Barberry at
the crossroads. Chilmark Manor has an early 17th century main north and south range, possibly built
soon after c. 1614. (fn. 42) At the south end a short east
wing was added in the early 18th century, and a
matching wing at the north end soon afterwards. A
wall and gateway were then made between the wings.
The house was much altered in the 20th century.
North-west of it a building, possibly a former brewhouse, incorporates a large 16th-century chimney
stack. The farm buildings were demolished in the
mid 19th century, (fn. 43) presumably c. 1868. (fn. 44) Many of
the copyhold farmsteads of the manor stood in the
Street, (fn. 45) and several early 18th-century stone farmhouses survive there. Near the south-east end the
Malt House is a small stone and thatch house of
17th-century origin, behind which was a malthouse
in the early 19th century. (fn. 46) The triangle of the
Street, Beckett's Lane, and Frog Lane had presumably been formed by c. 1700 when a group of cottages and small farmhouses, several of which survive,
stood at the junction of Beckett's Lane and Frog
Lane. On the west side of Beckett's Lane the Dial
House is a small 18th-century stone farmhouse
much extended in 18th-century vernacular style in
the 19th and 20th centuries. Other copyhold farmsteads were at Mooray and Portash. At Mooray are
two substantial stone farmhouses, one of the late
17th century and one of the early 18th, both occupied as pairs of cottages in the 20th. At Portash a
small early 18th-century farmhouse was extended
and modernized in the late 1930s to designs of G. B.
Imrie. (fn. 47) Cottages of the 17th and 18th centuries,
characteristically of stone and with two storeys, survive in the Street, Barberry, Beckett's Lane, and
Frog Lane, and at Portash. A group of about six is
on the south side of the Street at its north-west end
and others are nearby. At the corner of the Street
and Beckett's Lane one of the group was the Red
Lion public house in 1757. (fn. 48) The Bridge inn was in
the south-east part of the Street in the 19th century. (fn. 49) On the north side of the lower Wilton—Mere
road, Salisbury Road, the Black Dog was a public
house in the early 18th century. (fn. 50) The present inn is
an early 17th-century small stone house with 19th century stone and brick extensions and with farm
buildings behind it. On the south side of the road
two small houses were built in the 18th century.
Chilmark House, a square house of stone having a
three-bay principal front with an Ionic porch, was
built near the church and Chilmark Manor c. 1830,
but most 19th-century building was away from the
centre of the village. East, later Cleeves, Farm, a
house with extensive farm buildings, was erected
soon after 1839. The farm buildings were later
added to, and in the later 20th century greatly extended southwards. An associated farmstead and
cottages were built in the north-east corner of the
parish between 1839 and 1886: (fn. 51) the cottages were
rebuilt as a single house in the later 20th century.
Manor Farm, a large stone farmhouse in Tudor
style, and north of it stone and weatherboarded farm
buildings of two storeys around two open-sided
yards, and a pair of cottages, were built north-west
of the village in 1868; (fn. 52) and a terrace of four stone
cottages replaced the turnpike cottage beside Salisbury Road c. 1870. (fn. 53) Farm Bushes Barn was built
about then: (fn. 54) there and elsewhere north of Manor
Farm large farm buildings have been erected in the
20th century. A brick and stone terrace of four cottages was built at Mooray, apparently between 1861
and 1871, (fn. 55) but while the population fell between
1871 and the Second World War there was very little
new building in and around Chilmark village. After
1945 new houses were built in all parts of the village
except Mooray and Portash. In 1953, 1955, and 1965
a total of 24 council houses and bungalows was built
at Claybush in the south part of the village and at
Hops Close and Barn Hill in the west part. (fn. 56) Beside
Salisbury Road 20th-century buildings include a
new rectory house, now the Vicarage, a few other
houses, and a garage and workshops. Park Drive, an
estate of 14 private houses, was built north of the
road in the 1960s. (fn. 57) In Cow Drove seven large
houses were built in the later 1970s and early 1980s,
and there are a few other 20th-century houses there.
In the centre part of the village c. 20 private houses
and bungalows have been built since 1945. Near the
quarries south of the village Quarry House was built
in the early 20th century. (fn. 58) Since 1936 the R.A.F.
has erected many buildings, mostly for administration and to provide services in its underground
stores. A new headquarters building was completed
in 1939. (fn. 59) Most of the buildings near it are of dark
red brick and in a uniform style. The central part of
Chilmark village was designated a conservation area
in 1973. (fn. 60)
In the later 18th century and early 19th Ridge
consisted mainly of 5–10 small farmsteads in a complex network of lanes, (fn. 61) and that was presumably the
settlement pattern long before. The houses and
buildings of a few survive. (fn. 62) Ridge Farm in Fricker's
Lane is a stone farmhouse of the earlier 18th century
altered and enlarged in the late 19th: its extensive
farm buildings are mostly 19th-century. Knap Farm
in Knap Lane is an altered stone house of 18th century origin, south of it in Knap Lane is another
18th-century stone farmhouse, and at the junction
of Woods's Lane and Fricker's Lane farm buildings
possibly of the 18th century have been converted
into a house. A small house of the early 19th century
stands at the north end of Woods's Lane. In the mid
19th century, however, the settlement pattern
changed. A new Ridge Farm was built between 1839
and c. 1850 beside Salisbury Road, a brick and slate
house on the north side and weatherboarded and
brick farm buildings on the south. About then subsidiary farm buildings of stone were built north-east
of it and by 1886 two pairs of cottages had been
built beside the road. (fn. 63) Also in the later 19th century, presumably after 1876, (fn. 64) three short terraces of
estate cottages were built in the village of stone
rubble with red-brick dressings and gabled dormers.
Fonthill House was built west of the village between
1902 and 1904, (fn. 65) and stables with living accommodation were erected around a square courtyard shortly
before 1901 and between 1901 and 1926. (fn. 66) Since
then only one new house, on Ridge Hill, has been
built in the village.
Manor and other Estates.
Athelstan,
king 925–39, granted 20 cassatae at Chilmark to his
thegn Wulfsige. (fn. 67) The estate passed to Wilton
abbey (fn. 68) which held the manor of CHILMARK
AND RIDGE from the Conquest (fn. 69) to the Dissolution. (fn. 70) In 1275 it was rated as 2½ knight's fees. (fn. 71) In
1544 the manor was granted to Sir William Herbert, (fn. 72) from 1551 earl of Pembroke. Thereafter it
passed with the Pembroke title. (fn. 73) Most of the land
was sold in 1918. (fn. 74)
In 1249 a freehold in Chilmark rated as 2 yardlands was conveyed by William of Fernhill to Hugh
Druce, (fn. 75) whose son Walter held it before 1287. (fn. 76)
Presumably after Walter's death Wilton abbey
claimed the land from Hugh Druce of Fernhill,
apparently Walter's brother, as an escheat, and
granted it to Thomas Beaufoe and his wife Clarice. (fn. 77)
The younger Hugh Druce, also called Hugh of
Fernhill, gave up his claim in favour of the Beaufoes
in 1294 and 1296. (fn. 78) The land may afterwards have
belonged to William Beaufoe (fn. 79) and to Richard
Beaufoe, from whom it was apparently bought by
William of Tilshead in 1325. William had sons John,
Robert, and William, (fn. 80) and the land remained in his
family until 1364–5 when Thomas Tilshead gave it
with other land to Wilton abbey for torches in the
abbey church. (fn. 81) Later evidence that the abbey endowed Chilmark rectory with it (fn. 82) is implausible. (fn. 83)
In 1195 Wilton abbey granted a freehold at Ridge,
rated as 1 hide and until then possibly its demesne
land, to Jollan (Joedlan) of Ridge. (fn. 84) It was acquired
in 1241 by John Vernon, a sheriff of Wiltshire, in
portions, 2 yardlands from Roger Jollan, 1 yardland
from Cecily, relict of Jollan de Aldeford, and 1 yardland from Robert Huscard and his wife Hawise, (fn. 85)
presumably all relatives of Jollan of Ridge. The
estate descended in the Vernon family. Robert
Vernon may have held it c. 1268, (fn. 86) and it may have
passed to his son John. (fn. 87) William Vernon may have
held it in the early 14th century, (fn. 88) and Richard
Vernon almost certainly did in 1364. (fn. 89) A large part
of the Vernons' estate passed to members of the
Stantor family. That part was apparently acquired
by Nicholas Berenger (d. 1382) whose heirs were his
daughters Joan and Anstice, both minors in 1382,
respectively wives of Peter Stantor and Stephen
Bodenham. Joan died in 1386 leaving her sister
Anstice as heir; but because she had a daughter
Anstice Stantor who died five days before her
mother, in that year the king granted to Stantor a
moiety of Berenger's lands, possibly including his
estate at Ridge. (fn. 90) The land may have passed thus to
the Stantors, but Peter Stantor is said to have married Richard Vernon's daughter and heir Isabel, in
1384 betrothed to Robert Latimer, (fn. 91) and their son
William married Anstice, daughter of Stephen
Bodenham and Anstice Berenger, and it may have
passed to them by either of those marriages. William
Stantor was succeeded by his son Alexander (d.
1503), Alexander's son Peter, Peter's grandson
Thomas Stantor (fl. 1544), and Thomas's son
Roger (fn. 92) who sold his estate in Ridge to John
Fezzard in 1572. (fn. 93) A John Fezzard, presumably a
successor, held the estate in 1635 (fn. 94) and a John
Fezzard apparently did so in 1648. (fn. 95) Before 1666 it
was divided. The portion then William Turner's (fn. 96)
was the largest, 2 yardlands. It was sold c. 1744 by
another William Turner to Henry, earl of Pembroke
and Montgomery. (fn. 97) Smaller portions belonged to an
older and a younger John Moore in 1666. (fn. 98) They
descended in the Moore family, many members of
which held land in Chilmark and Ridge, (fn. 99) later possibly as one holding. The reversion of the Moores'
land, 47 a. and pasture rights, was bought by Henry,
earl of Pembroke and Montgomery (d. 1750), and
Henry, earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, entered
on it at the death of William Moore in 1768. (fn. 100)
Part of Richard Vernon's estate at Ridge was in
1384 held for life by his daughter's guardian Edmund
Flory and Flory's wife Ellen, perhaps a relative. (fn. 101)
By 1396, when he was licensed to hear mass in an
oratory in his house at Ridge, it had possibly been
acquired by Thomas Rigge (fn. 102) who held land in Ridge
in 1412. (fn. 103) That land descended with Chicklade
manor to John Pike (d. before 1550). (fn. 104) John's son
John held ¾ yardland in Ridge from 1550, (fn. 105) and it
passed to Thomas Pike whose heirs, his daughters
Joan and Helen, held it in 1632. (fn. 106) The land was held
from 1635 to 1666 by Joan's husband John Furnell, (fn. 107)
but may later have been acquired by one of the
Moores and subsequently by an earl of Pembroke.
From 1768 nearly the whole parish, apart from the
glebe, belonged to the earls of Pembroke and Montgomery. (fn. 108) In 1876 and 1885 a total of c. 520 a. in the
south-west part of the parish was given by exchange
to Alfred Morrison. (fn. 109) It has since descended with
the Morrisons' Fonthill House estate and in 1983
belonged to the Hon. J. I. Morrison. (fn. 110) A new house,
Little Ridge, later Fonthill House, was built on the
land between 1902 and 1904 to designs of Detmar
Blow. (fn. 111) It incorporated at its centre the rebuilt 17th century façade of Berwick St. Leonard manor
house. (fn. 112) The house was much enlarged in 1921 when
balancing wings in similar 17th-century style were
built. (fn. 113) Most of it was demolished in 1972: it was
replaced by a smaller house in classical style, designed by Tremwith Willis, built on the foundations
of its central block. (fn. 114)
In 1918 Reginald, earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, sold Ridge farm and East, later Cleeves,
farm, a total of c. 1,400 a., to the tenant James
Flower (fn. 115) (d. 1932). About 1930 Flower sold Cleeves
farm to his son Mr. Walter Flower who in 1954
bought Ridge farm from his father's executors. In
1965 Mr. Flower conveyed Ridge farm to his son
Mr. J. J. M. Flower, the owner in 1983, and Cleeves
farm to his son Mr. W. M. Flower, who sold that
farm in 1983–4. (fn. 116)
Manor farm, c. 940 a., was sold in 1919 to J. Wort
and G. Way. They sold it in 1934 to J. G. Deedes
who in 1949 sold the farm, 862 a., to trustees of the
Martineau family which included J. E. Martineau. (fn. 117)
In 1974 they sold it to Mr. Philip Kitson, the owner
in 1983. (fn. 118)
Chilmark stone quarries and a farm of 69 a. belonged to the earl of Pembroke and Montgomery
until bought by the Secretary of State for Air in
1936. (fn. 119) In 1983 the Ministry of Defence owned 94 a.
in the south-east corner of the parish. (fn. 120)
Economic History.
In the early 10th century
Chilmark was assessed as 20 cassatae (fn. 121) and in 1066 as
20 hides. There was land for 14 ploughteams in
1086. The 15 villani, 12 bordars, and 12 coliberts,
with 12 teams, held much more than Wilton abbey
held as its demesne which, although assessed as 8
hides, had on it only 2 teams. There were 5 a. of
meadow, pasture measuring 1 league by ½ league,
and 10 a. covered with bramble and thorns. The
estate almost certainly included Ridge. (fn. 122)
Chilmark and Ridge seem to have been distinct
for purposes of husbandry in the late 12th century (fn. 123)
or earlier. A tenant then held the whole manor or the
demesne at fee farm. The demesne, including c.
400 a. of arable and with stock including 164 sheep,
had apparently been a sheep-and-corn farm when
leased by Wilton abbey. From 1194, when the tenant
released it, the demesne was presumably kept in
hand. (fn. 124) Later evidence shows it limited to Chilmark: (fn. 125) the hide in Ridge which the abbey granted
freely in 1195 may have been its demesne there. (fn. 126)
Stock on the demesne in 1225 included 24 oxen and
150 sheep. The land may have been cultivated by
the services of the 54 men, presumably tenants of
Wilton abbey and of the freeholders in Chilmark and
Ridge, who then had a total of 896 sheep. (fn. 127) The
rector's sheep may have brought the tenantry flock
to 1,000, (fn. 128) and there were 123 beasts of the plough in
the parish. Complementary to the extensive sheepand-corn husbandry thus illustrated, there were
herds of 60 cows and 85 young cattle. (fn. 129) The record
of 1225 is the first of much evidence of flourishing
agriculture in the parish.
In the late 13th century demesne pasture for
sheep and cattle in Chilmark tithing may have been
separate from the common pastures. (fn. 130) By the mid
16th century, when all its land was leasehold or
copyhold of the manor, much of the tithing had been
inclosed. The south part then contained c. 500 a. of
closes, most of between 1 a. and 10 a. although some
demesne ones were larger. Bowercliffe, 22 a., Fore
down, 18 a., and Pitts and Sheephays, 24 a., were
common pastures apparently between the Chilmark—Tisbury and Chilmark-Fovant roads. Open fields,
c. 620 a., were in the centre, and downs used in
common for sheep and cattle were in the north. The
estimate of downland as 500 a. in 1567 seems too
low or, more likely, to omit a several demesne down.
The demesne, later called Manor farm, 275 a. excluding such a down, was in all parts of the tithing;
five copyholds, 20 yardlands, all with land in each of
the three main open fields, were mainly in the centre
and north; the glebe and 15 copyholds, c. 15 yardlands, some of which included open-field land, all in
one of the three main fields, and feeding rights
apparently on the northern downs, consisted mainly
of inclosures in the south. The copyholds at the west
end were distinguished from those at the Bower end:
the distinction is more likely to refer to groupings of
farmsteads in the village than to relate to the predominant type of land in the holdings. The west end
copyholders shared 300 a. of down with the farmer
of the demesne, the Bower end tenants 200 a. among
themselves. The farmer had exclusive winter pasture
in Fore down and the Pitts and Sheephays, but
otherwise the southern common pastures were for
the copyholders, those of the Bower end having
exclusive winter rights in Bowercliffe. There were
rights to feed 2,400 sheep and 153 cattle and horses
in the tithing: the sheep of the five larger copyholds
were stinted at 40 to a yardland, those of such of the
15 smaller copyholds with rights for them at 70 to a
yardland. East, West, and North fields, a total of
500 a., were of roughly equal size, and there was a
South field of 50 a. A further 70 a. of arable were in
'the lanes', possibly former pastures scattered among
the arable furlongs. North field, in which some of
the 15 copyholders had all their open-field land but
the farmer had none, had earlier been partly inclosed. (fn. 131)
Between 1567 and 1631 c. 135 a. of arable, in a
tongue extending due north from the village to the
down and separating the open fields east and west of
it, were inclosed. The tongue, called East furlong,
was presumably divided then into the c. 34 fields
there in the earlier 19th century. The allotments replaced the land in North field attached to some of
the 15 copyholds. There remained four open fields,
still named after the points of the compass, but only
the farmer of the demesne had land in South field,
77 a. Manor Farm down, 250 a. in the north-west
corner of the tithing, was certainly several in 1631;
it is clear from later evidence that the copyholders'
down remained c. 500 a. in the north-east corner. By
1631, however, a division between a sheep down and
a cow down may have replaced that between the
West end and Bower end downs. Stints on those
downs and on the southern commons had been reduced to 1,500 sheep and c. 120 cattle and horses.
Apart from 81 a. in East field and feeding rights on
Cow down and the southern commons, Manor farm,
680 a., was mainly several in the early 17th century.
There remained five copyholds with land in the open
fields: the 20 yardlands amounted to 391 a., including 68 a. of inclosures. In 1631 the inclosed copyholds amounted to c. 300 a.: half of them had rights
to feed sheep in common. (fn. 132)
From c. 1614 (fn. 133) to c. 1802 Manor farm was held by
members of the Jesse family as lifeholders. Until
1761 the rent included 66 qr. of grain. (fn. 134) The five
open-field copyholds remained nominally intact in
the 17th and 18th centuries, but by 1705 some of the
inclosed copyholds had been subdivided. Later in
the 18th century some farms may have grown as
holdings were accumulated, but the number of
farms in the tithing was notably reduced only after
1790. Apart from the Pitts east of the Chilmark—Tisbury road, inclosed in 1705 when the farmer was
allotted 10 a. and five copyholders a total of 10 a., (fn. 135)
the area of commonable land in Chilmark tithing was
further notably reduced also only after 1790.
Alterations, apparently extensive and presumably
by agreement, were made to the open fields in 1793.
All the arable land west of East furlong became a
several part of Manor farm, and presumably Manor
farm land in the open field east of East furlong was
then added to the other farms. At the same time the
easternmost part of Chilmark down, possibly more
than 100 a., was divided, allotted to those other
farms, and converted to arable. (fn. 136) Burnbake, 48 a. of
Manor Farm down, (fn. 137) may also have been converted
to arable about then. The remaining commonable
land, comprising the 46 a. of southern commons and
c. 800 a. of arable and down in the north-east part of
the tithing, was inclosed under an Act of 1814. The
formal award was not made until 1861 but the allotments and many exchanged lands were entered into
long before then, (fn. 138) possibly c. 1820.
Henry King occupied Manor farm from c. 1789. (fn. 139)
It remained lifehold until c. 1860 (fn. 140) but King presumably worked his other land in Chilmark, held for
lives or at rack rent, with the farm which was based
at Manor Farm immediately south of the church. (fn. 141)
Much formerly copyhold land was held at rack rent
in the 1790s and early 19th century. (fn. 142) In 1837 there
were only three large farms in the tithing, Manor, a
composite farm of 1,500 a., and rack-rent farms of
223 a. and 207 a. with buildings respectively at
Mooray and in the Street south-east of its junction
with Frog Lane. (fn. 143) As a result of exchanges at inclosure Henry King became tenant of all the northern downs: (fn. 144) c. 1828 he occupied 4,000 a. in various
parishes and had flocks of 6,500 Southdowns. (fn. 145) In
1837 the tithing contained 756 a. of meadow and
pasture, of which 542 a. were on the northern
downs, and 1,246 a. of arable. (fn. 146)
By 1844 the farm of 207 a. had been added to
Manor farm, which was held by Frederick King
from c. 1832 to c. 1850. (fn. 147) In the mid 19th century
the farm shrank when the tenure of its components
was converted to rack rent at different times, but it
has remained the largest in the tithing. From 1868,
when it was c. 1,000 a., it was worked from the new
Manor Farm. East farm, which grew as Manor farm
shrank, was worked from buildings erected for it
soon after 1839, and was 666 a. c. 1865. (fn. 148) James
Flower, who held it in the later 19th century and
earlier 20th, worked it with Ridge farm. (fn. 149)
In 1909 Manor farm was c. 1,074 a., East, later
Cleeves, farm was 658 a., and there were farms of
c. 60 a. based at the Black Dog and of 114 a. (fn. 150) based
in the village. (fn. 151) Farming in Chilmark in the 20th
century has been mixed, with more arable on the
northern downs, more pasture in the south. (fn. 152) Between the First and Second World Wars Manor was
an arable and dairy farm, and pigs were kept. (fn. 153)
Later, and until 1974, it was an arable and sheep
farm. (fn. 154) A dairy built at Cleeves Farm c. 1930 was
used until c. 1982. (fn. 155) In 1983 Manor and Cleeves,
581 a., (fn. 156) were the only farms based in Chilmark.
Manor, 864 a., was an arable and dairy farm with a
new dairy at Farm Bushes Barn. (fn. 157) Cleeves was
mainly arable but included large buildings used for
rearing cattle. (fn. 158) South of the village R.A.F. Chilmark occupied 94 a. which were not used for agriculture. (fn. 159) Other land south of the village was in 1983
part of Place farm, based in Tisbury, and devoted to
arable and dairy farming. (fn. 160)
Common husbandry in Ridge tithing, where all
the land was in copyholds and two or three small
freeholds, was more persistent than in Chilmark. In
the Middle Ages there were apparently two open
fields. North and South, which by the mid 16th
century had each been divided into three. In 1567,
the six fields and c. 165 a. of arable in 'the lanes'
totalled c. 620 a. Ridge down, 120 a. for sheep north
of the open fields, Ridge common, 80 a. for cattle
and sheep, hedged in and almost certainly south of
the village, and 12 a. of heath for horses and sheep
were then common pastures. There were rights to
feed 1,447 sheep and 96 horses and cattle on them.
Around the village were c. 35 a. of inclosures. The
23½ yardlands were in nine holdings, the largest of
which was a copyhold of 5 yardlands comprising
157 a. and feeding rights. Cattle and horses were
stinted at 4 to a yardland, sheep at 60. (fn. 161)
Between 1567 and 1631 the 'three fields called
South field', c. 125 a. apparently in the south-east
corner of the tithing, were inclosed, and the common, apparently in the south-west corner and
already inclosed, was divided and allotted. All the
land of the tithing south of the ridge was afterwards
several. The remaining open fields were rearranged
as East, Middle, and West fields, c. 475 a. Stints
were reduced to 44 sheep and 1 horse to a yardland.
Of the seven copyholds only the smallest, 1 yardland, lacked open-field land in 1631: inclosed land
made up between a quarter and a third of each of the
others. By then, however, there had been little
change in the use of the inclosed land. The type of
lands then in the freeholds is not clear. (fn. 162)
There was no further inclosure of land in Ridge
until after the Act of 1814. In the 18th century
Ridge down, 210 a., could be fed on by 1,045 sheep,
and Ridge Hill was common for c. 40 horses. Between the two were East field, c. 130 a., Middle field,
c. 184 a., and West field, c. 150 a. South of Ridge
Hill the inclosed lands, c. 230 a., were about half
arable and half meadow and pasture. The Moores'
land was held at rack rent from 1769 but other holdings not until after 1790, (fn. 163) when there were apparently about five farms in the tithing. (fn. 164) In 1837, after
the allotment of 725 a. and exchanges at inclosure, (fn. 165)
the tithing contained c. 610 a. of arable and c. 345 a.
of meadow and pasture of which 210 a. remained
downland pasture. There were four farms. Frederick
King's of 445 a., with buildings at Knap Farm and
at the junction of Fricker's Lane and Woods's Lane,
included half the downland and was presumably
worked with Manor farm in Chilmark and land
elsewhere. James Flower's of 297 a. included the old
Ridge Farm and half the downland. All the land of
the smaller farms, of 115 a. and 109 a. with buildings
respectively immediately west of Flower's and on
the west side of Woods's Lane, was south of the
ridge. (fn. 166) That of 109 a. was occupied by Flower in
1845. (fn. 167)
In 1855 the larger of the two smaller farms, Ridge
Hill, was a compact farm of 129 a. with its land south
of its buildings, which were those of the old Ridge
Farm and those immediately west of it. (fn. 168) The new
Ridge Farm was built between 1839 and c. 1850 for
James Flower or for William Flower who worked
756 a. from it c. 1865. (fn. 169) The new Ridge farm has
since remained in the Flower family as tenants and
owners and until c. 1930 was worked with East, or
Cleeves, farm in Chilmark. (fn. 170) James Flower (d.
1932), who worked the farm from 1878, made a
reputation for breeding Hampshire Down sheep, (fn. 171)
and a pedigree flock was kept on the farm until 1969.
In 1983 Ridge farm, 865 a. including 135 a. in the
north-east corner of the parish, was primarily arable
with some sheep. (fn. 172) In the early 20th century there
were three farms on the Morrisons' estate in the
south part of the tithing, the largest of which was
Tile Kiln farm, 183 a., (fn. 173) based at the old Ridge
Farm. That farm, again called Ridge farm, was a
mixed holding of c. 300 a. when brought in hand c.
1982. The only other farm based at Ridge after the
Second World War was Knap farm, c. 48 a. when
brought in hand c. 1950. (fn. 174) In 1914 c. 150 a. of parkland and woodland, mostly around Little Ridge,
were in the tithing. (fn. 175) Most survived in 1983. (fn. 176)
In the early 19th century there was a brickyard
west of Knap Lane. (fn. 177) Until 1875 or later bricks were
made there by members of the Harvey family who
from the mid 19th century were also potters and
tilemakers. (fn. 178) Yellow clay was used for bricks, blue
clay dug from below it was used for pots, tiles, and
harder bricks. (fn. 179) The business was continued by
other owners until the early 20th century. (fn. 180) There
was a lime kiln beside Mill Lane in the later 19th
century. (fn. 181)
The parish may have been sparsely wooded in the
Middle Ages. In the 16th century estimates of woodland varied from 47 a. (fn. 182) to 85 a. (fn. 183) Most of it, 51 a.,
was in 1626 leased separately with licence to cut the
underwood; (fn. 184) 10 a. were part of Manor farm. (fn. 185) In
the 18th century there was more woodland, most on
the border with Tisbury between the Tisbury and
Lower Chicksgrove roads where there were coppices of 61 a. and 11 a. By 1837 more than half the
larger had been converted to arable. There were
then 142 a. of woodland, all in the south part of the
parish except Hart Coppice, 12 a. on Ridge down,
and Henley Coppice, 4 a. on Manor Farm down.
Orchards then seem to have been a feature of cultivation around the village. (fn. 186) Most of the woods standing in 1837 have survived, in the early 20th century
some 30 a. west and north-east of Ridge were planted
with trees, (fn. 187) and in 1983 there were c. 200 a. of
woodland in the parish, nearly all in the south part.
Mills.
Wilton abbey's Chilmark estate included a
mill in 1086 (fn. 188) and 1262. (fn. 189) In 1327 William of Tilshead owned a water mill, almost certainly that later
called Stoford Mill, (fn. 190) which was conveyed with his
freehold in Chilmark to Wilton abbey in 1364–5. (fn. 191)
Stoford Mill was the only mill in the abbey's Chilmark estate at the Dissolution, (fn. 192) and it remained
part of the manor. (fn. 193) It stood on the Nadder at
Upper Chicksgrove, (fn. 194) formerly called Stoford, in the
detached part of Chilmark transferred to East Tisbury in 1885, (fn. 195) and was a corn mill. It was leased
with Manor farm in the 16th century, for most of
the 17th century, and until 1730, from when it was
leased separately. (fn. 196) In 1867, when it was called
Upper Chicksgrove Mill, it was burned down; (fn. 197) it
was rebuilt in 1869. (fn. 198) Milling continued apparently
until the 1890s (fn. 199) when much of the mill was again
destroyed by fire. (fn. 200) The surviving mill house, of red
brick, is of the earlier 18th century. A lower stone
wing with red-brick dressings was added to the
north in the 19th century.
Fair.
The earliest evidence of Chilmark fair is of
1619 when its tolls were leased to the tenant of
Manor farm. Horsefair mead was then part of the
farm. (fn. 201) In the later 17th century Aubrey referred to
a good fair for sheep on St. Margaret's day (fn. 202) (20
July), clothes were traded in the mid 18th century, (fn. 203)
and in the early 19th century there were both horse
and cheese fairs held on 30 July. (fn. 204) The fair ground
was immediately north-west of the church. (fn. 205) The
fair was abolished in 1874. (fn. 206)
Stone Quaries.
The Portland stone outcropping
in the valley in the south-east corner of the parish
was possibly used for packing around the upright
stones of Stonehenge, (fn. 207) on an Iron-Age site at
Fifield Bavant, (fn. 208) and for building in the Roman
period. (fn. 209) The quarries from which Chilmark stone
was taken, in Chilmark, Tisbury, and Teffont
Evias, (fn. 210) were an important source of building stone
in the Middle Ages. The stone was used in Wilton
abbey, Old Salisbury cathedral, the new Salisbury
cathedral, (fn. 211) and in Wiltshire parish churches. (fn. 212)
Later it was used in Longford Castle in Britford,
Fonthill Abbey in Fonthill Gifford, (fn. 213) and Westminster Abbey. (fn. 214)
The quarries were part of Chilmark manor and
kept in hand by Wilton abbey and the earls of Pembroke until 1613, although the farmer of the demesne
was allowed stone for repairs. They were not highly
valued in 1613 (fn. 215) and until then had presumably been
exploited ad hoc. The lease of 1613 gave the lessee
the right to open new quarries, (fn. 216) and speculative
quarrying may date from then. In the later 17th
century Aubrey was impressed by the size of, or
perhaps the activity at, the quarries, (fn. 217) which from
1659 to 1767 were leased with Manor farm. (fn. 218) There
were two firms of stonemasons and stonecutters in
the mid 18th century, (fn. 219) the head of one of which,
William Privett, was lessee of the quarries from
1767. (fn. 220) Privett was employed as a mason at Stourhead
in Stourton, at Longford Castle, and at Longleat
House in Horningsham. (fn. 221) By the early 19th century,
when the quarry ground was nearly full of large
pits, (fn. 222) the limit of easy open-cast extraction had perhaps been reached, and there had already been
underground mining. (fn. 223) By then transportation by
canal had also made stone from elsewhere cheaper
than Chilmark stone. (fn. 224) In the 1830s the quarries were
little used, (fn. 225) and in 1868 Lord Pembroke bought
Chilmark stone for the new Manor Farm partly to
help the quarryman, George Lane, to pay arrears of
rent owed for the quarries. (fn. 226)
Speculative extraction of stone began again in the
late 19th century, mostly by underground mining on
the west side of the Chilmark—Fovant road. John
and Levi Bowles worked there from c. 1875 and
Levi Bowles & Co. continued until c. 1920. In 1907
T. T. Gething, who had been a London agent selling
the stone, bought a lease of the quarries. T. T.
Gething & Co., later the Chilmark Quarry Co. Ltd.,
mined stone until the quarries and mines were
bought by the Air Department in 1936, and Gething
built Quarry House and managed an Alpine nursery
garden on the site. (fn. 227) Salisbury Post Office, built in
1905, (fn. 228) is the most recent large building for which
Chilmark stone was used. (fn. 229)
From 1936 the R.A.F. has used the quarries and
mines to store high explosives and bombs. The
R.A.F station at Chilmark is the headquarters of
No. 11 Maintenance Unit. Many civilians have
sometimes been employed at the station, which included premises at Dinton and elsewhere: of the 610
employed there in 1949 only 243 were officers and
airmen. The numbers employed there were later
much smaller. (fn. 230) In the late 1930s a narrow gauge
railway was made to link the quarries with the main
line near Ham Cross Farm in Tisbury, where sheds
for transferring materials between wagons were
built. The quarries are served by 9 miles of railway,
most of it underground where battery-powered
locomotives are used. Some of the narrow-gauge
rolling stock specially designed for Chilmark c. 1940
remained in use in 1976, but four new diesel locomotives were bought in 1974. (fn. 231) New buildings have
been erected on both sides of the Chilmark-Fovant
road.
In 1977 the surface quarries in Chilmark and
Teffont Evias were part of 35 a. scheduled as of
special scientific interest to geologists and biologists. There were 2.5 ha. of underground quarries
in 1983 (fn. 232) when stone to restore Salisbury cathedral
was being cut under a licence granted for five years
by the Ministry of Defence. (fn. 233)
Local Government.
Chilmark and Ridge
tithings were represented separately at the sheriff's
tourn in the 15th century, (fn. 234) and were separate for
other administrative purposes from the 16th century
to the 19th. (fn. 235) In the manor courts of the earls of
Pembroke held from the 16th century to the 18th the
homage of each tithing was distinct. The courts were
annual. Each homage presented, usually each by a
pair of foremen in the 16th century and each by a
single foreman in the 17th. Business was limited:
buildings needing repair, deaths of copyholders, and
occasionally infringements of tenurial or agrarian
custom were reported. In addition the courts
licensed subletting of copyholds and witnessed surrenders and admittances. From the late 17th century
or earlier additional courts were held specially for
particular admittances, often arising from the conveyance of a copyhold. In the 18th century the
normal annual court dealt with similar business and
more often than before recorded new rules for husbandry: in 1707, for example, the agreement to
inclose the Pitts was recorded. (fn. 236)
In 1775–6 £104 was spent on the poor, in 1802–3
£290, all in outdoor relief: 18 adults and 11 children
were relieved throughout 1802–3 when the total of
98 relieved occasionally was very high for a parish
with no more than c. 410 inhabitants. (fn. 237) Between
1815 and 1835 over £300 a year was sometimes
spent, but expenditure was not above average for the
hundred. In 1835 the parish joined Tisbury poorlaw union. (fn. 238) It became part of Salisbury district in
1974. (fn. 239)
Church.
There was apparently a church at Chilmark in the 12th century. (fn. 240) There was a rectory in
1297. (fn. 241) In 1976 it was united with the benefice of
Tisbury and Swallowcliffe with Ansty as the benefice of Tisbury, and a team ministry was set up with
a vicar living in Chilmark. (fn. 242)
The advowson passed with Chilmark manor:
every known presentation before the Dissolution was
by an abbess of Wilton. (fn. 243) It was not granted with the
manor to Sir William Herbert in 1544, and the
grantor of the turn in which John Tregonwell presented in that year (fn. 244) may have been Wilton abbey or
the Crown. Herbert, then earl of Pembroke, claimed
the advowson in 1567, (fn. 245) but in 1577 the Crown presented by lapse: (fn. 246) the nominee was a chaplain of
both Elizabeth I and Henry, earl of Pembroke. (fn. 247) An
earl of Pembroke first presented in 1593. Thereafter
the advowson passed with the earldom. (fn. 248) In 1684,
however, the right of Thomas, earl of Pembroke and
Montgomery, to present was disputed by William
Wake who claimed to have bought a turn with the
consent of Philip, earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, and tried to secure the living for his son by
having him presented by the Crown. The attempt
failed and although in 1686 the Crown did present,
following an accusation of simony, the earl's nominee
was instituted. (fn. 249) In 1962 Sidney, earl of Pembroke
and Montgomery, transferred the advowson to John
Morrison (Baron Margadale from 1964). (fn. 250) Since
1976 Lord Margadale has been a member of the
patronage board for the benefice of Tisbury. (fn. 251)
Valuations at 20 marks in 1291, (fn. 252) £19 13s. 3d. in
1535, (fn. 253) and £426 c. 1830 (fn. 254) show the rectory to have
had an income above average. It was held by lease
for £120 a year in 1646. (fn. 255) The rector was entitled to
all tithes from nearly the whole parish. In the 16th
century 300 sheep on the demesne farm of the
manor, and in the 18th they and a few acres of
meadow, were tithe free: (fn. 256) small moduses in respect
of both were paid in the early 19th. In 1837 the
tithes were valued at £479 and commuted. (fn. 257) In 1341
the glebe included 40 a. of arable and pasture
rights; (fn. 258) in 1567 it was rated as 2 yardlands and included similar rights; (fn. 259) but in 1588 it consisted of
inclosed lands estimated at 42 a. and no pasture
right. (fn. 260) Apparently the same land was later reckoned
as 31 a. (fn. 261) Rectors made exchanges of land in the 19th
century, (fn. 262) a few acres were apparently sold c. 1905, (fn. 263)
and 13 a. were sold in 1921. (fn. 264) The remainder,
another 13a., was sold in 1938. (fn. 265) The rector had a
house in Chilmark in 1341, (fn. 266) presumably on the site
south of the church on which the later rectory
house stood. The later house has a short east-west
central range with two cross wings and may be of
16th-century origin, but the earliest surviving features are early 17th-century. Parts of the house were
refitted in the later 17th century and later 18th, but
the house was not significantly enlarged until 1814.
A new staircase was then made behind the central
range and a large wing of red brick, which includes a
richly decorated first-floor drawing room, was built
behind the east wing. (fn. 267) Alterations in the 20th century have included the conversion of an attached
eastern service building into a dining room with a
reset medieval window. A large tithe barn south of
the church was demolished in 1826: stone from it
was used in a garden wall and service buildings,
apparently the small stable court built about that
time, at the rectory house. (fn. 268) The house was sold in
1938. A new rectory house west of the church was
built to designs of Michael Harding & Elgar in
1939. (fn. 269) There was a second house on the glebe in
1588, said to be that usually lived in by the curate (fn. 270)
and later called the vicarage house, and another small
house in the 18th century. (fn. 271) The vicarage house, a
cottage at the corner of Frog Lane and Beckett's
Lane, (fn. 272) was sold in 1938. (fn. 273)
Chilmark was a valuable living and both Wilton
abbey and the earls of Pembroke often gave it to men
of distinction. Many incumbents, including Henry
of Netheravon (fn. 274) and John of Stratford (fn. 275) in the 14th
century, were canons of Salisbury. John Thornborough, rector 1577–93 (fn. 276) and likewise a canon of
Salisbury, became bishop of Limerick in 1593 and
was later bishop of Bristol and of Worcester. (fn. 277)
Robert Walker, rector from 1610, was a royalist: he
was accused of adhering to the Book of Common
Prayer, and the rectory was sequestrated in 1646. (fn. 278)
His successor was Gabriel Sangar who subscribed to
the Concurrent Testimony in 1648 and moved to St.
Martin's in the Fields (Mdx.) c. 1650. (fn. 279) In 1674 the
churchwardens praised the incumbent, (fn. 280) Thomas
Hancock, but in 1681 parishioners petitioned against
him for not making clear to them to whom they
should pay tithes. (fn. 281) Between 1685 and 1770, except
1701–28, Thomas, William, and Richard Barford
were rectors. (fn. 282) Thomas Eyre, rector 1770–1812, was
also rector of Fovant and advised Henry, earl of
Pembroke and Montgomery, on patronage matters. (fn. 283)
In 1783 a curate held services at festivals and twice
on Sundays, catechized regularly, and held communion four times a year for c. 14 communicants. (fn. 284)
Charles Tower, rector 1843–80, paid a trained nurse
for the poor. (fn. 285) Most of the inhabitants attended
church on Sundays in 1851, when adults at the two
services on Census Sunday totalled 330 and there
were more than 100 communicants. (fn. 286) In 1864 the
rector held two Sunday services with congregations
averaging no more than 85, said morning prayers in
the church every day and evening prayers there on
Wednesdays and Fridays in Lent, catechized in
Lent, and held communion at festivals and other
times for an average of 27 communicants. (fn. 287)
The church of ST. MARGARET was so called
in the 18th century, (fn. 288) but the dedication may be as
old as or older than Chilmark fair which was held on
St. Margaret's day in the 17th century. (fn. 289) The church
is of rubble ashlar and consists of a chancel with
north vestry, a central tower with spire, transepts,
and north-east stair turret, and a nave with north
aisle and south porch. The positions, in the east part
of the nave, of the south doorway and a 12th-century
north doorway and, in the west part of the chancel,
of two early 13th-century lancet windows (fn. 290) indicate
an early church consisting of a short chancel and a
short nave. There was a major reconstruction late in
the 13th century or early in the 14th. The chancel
was extended eastwards, the nave westwards. The
tower was built into the east end of the nave and the
transepts were built. In the 14th century new
windows were placed in the south wall of the old
part of the nave and the porch was built. The south
doorway was replaced in the 15th century. The spire,
possibly on the tower in the mid 16th century, (fn. 291) was
in poor repair in the late 17th. (fn. 292) It is said to have
been rebuilt c. 1760. (fn. 293) The vestry was built in 1844. (fn. 294)
In 1856 the church was extended and greatly restored to designs of T. H. Wyatt: a west gallery and
its external staircase were removed, and the stair
turret, a larger north transept, and the north aisle
with an arcade of four bays were built. The 12th century north doorway was reset in the west wall of
the aisle, and much stonework and roofing in other
parts of the church were renewed. (fn. 295)
In 1553, when 2 oz. of plate were taken for the
king, the parish kept a chalice of 9 oz. It was replaced
by a cup dated 1576, and in 1743 a chalice, paten,
and flagon were given. An almsdish was given in
1850, (fn. 296) and additional vessels in 1890. (fn. 297) All that
plate belonged to the church in 1983. (fn. 298)
There are six bells: (ii) and (iii) were cast at Salisbury in the period 1380–1420. The other two of the
four bells in the church in 1553 were replaced by
(iv), by Richard or Roger Purdue, 1613, and (v), by
John Wallis, 1616. (fn. 299) The four bells were apparently
rehung in 1782. (fn. 300) The treble and tenor were cast by
John Warner & Sons of London respectively in 1876
and 1877. (fn. 301) The bells were restored and rehung in
1974. (fn. 302)
The registers are complete from 1653. (fn. 303)
Nonconformity.
There were three dissenters
in the parish in 1676, (fn. 304) one of whom may have been
the dissenter who conformed c. 1683. (fn. 305) There is a
tradition that Chilmark quarrymen built a chapel,
apparently in Tisbury, in 1726, (fn. 306) but meeting houses
for Independents certified in 1799 and 1802 are the
only direct evidence of nonconformity in the 18th or
19th century among those working or living in Chilmark
tithing. A meeting house at Ridge was certified
in 1739, another in 1816, and others in 1850 and
1851. (fn. 307) In 1851 Baptists there held three services on
Census Sunday with congregations averaging 37. (fn. 308)
Between then and 1864 the Union chapel at Ridge
Hill was built for General Baptists. (fn. 309) It is a small
stone and red-brick building with dressings of black
and grey brick. Services were held in it in 1983.
Education.
There was a small day school in the
parish in 1783, (fn. 310) and in 1818 a school, then attended
by 35 children, which was said to provide sufficient
education for the poor. (fn. 311) The rector built a new
school in the period 1824–6 (fn. 312) in the Street. It was
later affiliated to the National Society. (fn. 313) The number
of pupils recorded in 1833, at 136 (fn. 314) more than a
quarter of the population of the parish, (fn. 315) is high
enough to suggest error or that some came from
elsewhere. In 1859 there were 40–50 children at the
school and 30 infants were taught in a cottage. A new
classroom and an adjoining teacher's house were
built to designs of W. Robson between then and
1862. (fn. 316) In 1864 the boys left the school at 9 or 10,
the girls at 11, and Charles Tower, rector 1843–80,
had for long held a well attended evening school
thrice weekly in winter. (fn. 317) There were 95 pupils and
3 teachers in 1902. (fn. 318) The average attendance fell
from 85 in 1912 (fn. 319) to 33 in 1938. (fn. 320) In 1971 the school
was enlarged: (fn. 321) there were 15 children on roll in
1983. (fn. 322)
Charities for the Poor.
The Revd.
Thomas Wills is said to have given by will in 1731
£6 6s. to poor labourers of Chilmark. In the early
19th century the capital, then yielding 6s. a year,
was held by the overseers. (fn. 323) The charity was afterwards lost. George Young (d. 1922) gave the
reversion of a cottage at the junction of Beckett's
Lane and Frog Lane for the recreation of parishioners. (fn. 324) The cottage was sold for £70 in 1927 and
the capital invested. The income was not spent and
in 1984 the capital was £158. (fn. 325)