CHAPTER XVI. West of Penton Street
Nowhere in the old parish of Clerkenwell is a sense of the
original building pattern having been swept away stronger
than on the western slopes of Pentonville. A stroll downhill from Penton Street along Donegal Street and Collier
Street, which together constitute an east-west spine for
this area, unfolds a miscellany of housing estates, schools
and other large buildings that turn their backs on the
frontage of the streets that cut between them. Here, until
the urban density of King's Cross looms close, architectural value is primarily attached to the blocks and the
spaces within them, in a classic inversion of what cartographers call the figure-ground relationship.
Only in Northdown Street, the most westerly and the
latest portion of this district to be completed in the 1830s
and 40s, are any remnants of first development to be
found. Elsewhere no trace survives of what was once a
populous suburb and at first passed for a prosperous one.
Yet here was once the core of Pentonville, which from the
1770s crept westwards from Penton Street and northwards
from the New (now Pentonville) Road along a neat grid of
streets. In some cases not even the streets survive, while
most that do have changed their names. Nevertheless the
regular, stolid impress of the original grid can still be felt.
Along Pentonville Road, from Cynthia to Rodney Street
is much the same distance at around 275 ft as from Rodney
to Cumming Street, or again from Calshot Street to
Killick Street or from there to Northdown Street.

526. Calshot Street looking south in 2007. On right, The
Wintons
Buildings built since the Second World War dominate
the district today, a high proportion of them housing
estates. The outstanding and challenging example is
Lubetkin and Tecton's Priory Green, first planned in 1937
but not in the event built until 1948–58. Priory Green is
a monument not only to the utopian ambitions of housing
architecture in its day, but to the culmination of efforts
dating back to the 1860s to rid Pentonville of a legacy of
banal and decrepit housing. The post-war purgation that
swept away many minor Georgian terraces removed also
most of the copious Victorian attempts to improve the
area. A complete new street of that period, Affleck Street,
has left only a tiny stub, while once again it is only in
Northdown Street that blocks of model dwellings survive.
In its early prime, western Pentonville was not without
appeal, grace or famous residents. Here John Stuart Mill
was born, here Mary Wollstonecraft and Thomas Carlyle
both briefly lodged. Writing in Southampton (now
Calshot) Street in the autumn of 1824, Carlyle found his
rooms 'about the neatest I ever inhabited; papered and
cleaned like bandboxes, and quieter than I supposed any
were in this monstrous place [London]. The people go
to bed early; after half past ten, there is scarce a murmur
to be heard till towards seven in the morning; and
throughout all the day there is nothing that even
approaches to noise'. (ref. 1)
That elusive and short-lived tranquillity can only be
recaptured today in a handful of engravings and documents. The main flavour of the environment today is of a
backwater where railed-off housing estates and schools
have emptied the public realm of meaningful life, and
where the intermittent traffic is perilous enough to make
the ear- and eyesore of speed-bumps omnipresent (Ill.
526, 527). Much effort has been spent on this area over
the years and there is remarkable architecture to be found.
But it has to be admitted that western Pentonville is hard
work.

527. Donegal Street looking west in 2007
The western and northern boundary followed here is
one of convenience, and conforms neither to the old parish
boundary (Ill. 426) nor its line as simplified under the
London Boroughs Act of 1900, when the civil parishes
were redefined as boroughs.
First Development
An outline history of Pentonville is given in Chapter XIII.
In broad terms, Henry Penton's new suburb progressed
northwards from Pentonville Road and eastwards and
westwards from Penton Street. In the district covered by
this chapter, the earliest building began in the 1770s,
between Penton and Rodney Streets. By 1790 that first
sector had been quite tightly filled in up to the parish's
northern boundary with Islington, at which point all the
north—south streets of Pentonville stopped abruptly, with
fields beyond. The main subsidiary streets within this
quadrilateral were John Street, now represented by the
stub of Risinghill Street, and Henry Street, now Donegal
Street. There were also two minor north—south streets
running north out of Pentonville Road: Hermes Street,
which once extended up to John Street but has since been
obliterated except for its southern extremity, next to
Pentonville Road; and Ann Street, now Cynthia Street,
which ran only as far as Henry Street (Ill. 528).
West of Rodney Street, building agreements were made
in 1786–9 with separate individuals for three large, parallel blocks stretching back to the parish boundary and to be
divided by roads leading out of Pentonville Road. The
watchmaking brothers Alexander and John Cumming
took on the blocks between Rodney Street and Cumming
Street and between Cumming Street and Southampton
(now Calshot) Street respectively, while between
Southampton Street and Winchester (now Killick) Street
the undertaker was the bricklayer Joshua Hodgkinson. All
three blocks got quickly under way. By the time of
Horwood's map of 1799, development had taken place all
along the Pentonville Road front and up each of the new
streets leading out of it as far north as Collier Street.
North of that line, Horwood shows houses only in
Winchester Street. Collier Street, the sole cross street in
this quarter of Pentonville, appears on his map only as a
stub starting from Rodney Street, but had probably progressed further. A fifth and final parallel street to the west,
North (now Northdown) Street, had not then got far out
of Pentonville Road.
By 1808 Collier Street had been completed, and is
indeed shown on Hornor's map of that date as extending
briefly beyond North Street to the western parish boundary, covering sites later built over. But there was still only
intermittent development along North Street and north of
Collier Street—a token of the slow-down in building
during the Napoleonic Wars. Writing in about 1803, J. P.
Malcolm remarked of this part of Pentonville: 'The streets
are broad, and their descent keeps them always clean; it is
no wonder that the houses produce good rents. Whenever
the blessings of Peace are restored, this place will again
increase in a very rapid manner'. (ref. 2) The only fresh street
laid out after that was Wellington (later Busaco) Street, an
afterthought in the form of a long cul-de-sac tucked in
from about 1810 between the backs of houses in Cumming
and Southampton Streets north of Collier Street.

528. The Penton estate west of Penton Street, from Horwood's map of 1799, showing development of streets north of the New
(Pentonville) Road. Collier Street, shown as a stub running west out of Rodney Street, may have advanced further than
indicated. The development extended north of Henry Street beyond the border of the map
The westernmost portion of this district had a different history. In that direction Henry Penton III's landholdings extended north and west beyond the Clerkenwell
boundary, to include a substantial tract in Islington parish.
For his land in both parishes west of Winchester (now
Killick) Street, Penton in 1802 drew up an agreement with
the builder William Horsfall, and then in 1806–7 sold him
the freehold of the whole. The west side of Winchester
Street and both sides of North (Northdown) Street,
though begun under Penton, were therefore built up in a
separate manner and took until the 1840s to complete.
Here courts behind the street fronts were commoner than
further east as far as Penton Street. The character of this
area was doubtless influenced by the proximity of the
Regent's Canal, on which Horsfall developed what is now
Battlebridge Basin (1825); by the creation of Caledonian
Road; and eventually by the coming of the Great
Northern Railway to King's Cross in 1850, a turning point
in Pentonville's fortunes.

529. Hermes Hill area from Hornor's map of Clerkenwell, 1808–9. Hermes Hill House and its garden are shown north of John
Street, with the north and south pavilions to their west
The layout of western Pentonville broadly continues
the grid of streets set out to the east of Penton Street, but
west of Rodney Street there is a single east—west street,
Collier Street, instead of two. This may have all been set
out in the 'plan for building' produced by James Carr in
1781, though minor modifications are likely to have been
made, for instance in the formation of Ann (Cynthia)
Street on the block of ground taken by the merchant
Robert Harrop in 1769. Carr was still involved with work
on the estate many years later, for instance in connection
with Alexander Cumming's ground on the south side of
Pentonville Road in 1791, and the Penton Estate accounts
record a payment to him in 1805. (ref. 3) The main executive
agent was Thomas Collier, Henry Penton III's steward,
whose task of making clear agreements and promoting the
estate's progress must have been facilitated by the simplicity of the conception. Variations, such as the independent houses built by Dr De Valangin on Hermes Hill, and
by John Cumming facing Pentonville Road, as well as the
Pentonville Chapel, did not affect the general look of the
development.
The following short sections outline the early developments block by block. In view of the drastic redevelopment since then, the street names current at the time are
generally used.
Penton Street to Rodney Street
Development in this rectangle was distinguished at its
outset in the early 1770s by one remarkable house, Hermes
Hill House, built next to the fields looking out towards
Islington. On the less eligible ground to its south a grid of
smaller streets was subsequently laid out and built up.
Hermes Hill House stood a little north—west of the
present St Silas's, Penton Street, on the site now occupied
by Chalbury Walk on the Wynford Estate (Ill. 529). It was
built in 1772–4 for Francis De Valangin, a Swiss-born
physician who practised in Fore Street, Cripplegate, and
earlier in Soho Square. De Valangin took a lease of the site
from Henry Penton in September 1772, undertaking to
build a house costing at least £500. (ref. 4) Large and detached,
the house stood in comparative isolation, set back from
John Street with a landscaped garden to its west. The site
was on the highest part of the estate, backing on to White
Conduit Fields and commanding views of London and the
Middlesex and Surrey hills. The name was chosen by De
Valangin, a mason, in commemoration of the legendary
alchemist Hermes Trismegistus. (ref. 5)
Cromwell records that the house was designed by the
doctor himself, 'on a plan more fanciful than convenient'.
If a professional designer was involved, however, it might
have been the Essex architect William Hillyer (d. 1782), for
De Valangin's second wife, an Essex woman whom he
married in 'about 1782', was the widow of a 'Mr Hillier',
variously described as 'an architect' and 'an eminent surveyor and builder', and probably identifiable as Hillyer. (ref. 6)
In its original form, the house consisted of 'a rather singular looking brick tower, with wings descending, as it
were, by steps on either side'. (ref. 7) Only the most distant of
pictorial representations seems to exist (Ill. 422). Sales
particulars drawn up after De Valangin's death describe it
simply as a 'uniform brick residence with extensive front'.
It faced west towards the garden, and comprised two principal floors, with servants' apartments and a belvedere or
'prospect gallery' above, together with two small apartments 'on the leads'. There were five bedrooms (with two
dressing-rooms), three on the first floor and two downstairs, where the dining-parlour and a study or breakfast
parlour were also situated. The drawing-room was on the
first floor, approached by main and service staircases, and
there was a spacious entrance hall. (ref. 8)
De Valangin had a valuable library and a collection of
pictures by 'esteemed masters'; the drawing-room was
ornamented with a painting in the ceiling, 'representing
the sleep of Endymion on Mount Latmos, as caused by
Cynthia, who rests on a cloud regarding him'. (ref. 9)
The garden was laid out with walks and planted with
fruit trees and flowering shrubs. Its main feature was a
large fishpond, and it also included the tomb of De
Valangin's daughter, who died in childhood in the 1780s.
Cromwell records that the house was initially supplied
with water from the White Conduit built to serve the
Charterhouse. (ref. 10)
In 1776 De Valangin leased a large plot adjoining his
house to the west, bounded by Rodney and John (later
Risinghill) Streets. This was developed from the late 1770s
to the 1790s. The houses here included several on the east
side of Rodney Street and a pair of villas, North and South
Pavilions, which stood at the west end of the Hermes Hill
garden (Ill. 529). These villas were square on plan and
seem to have been of one storey only; they each contained
two bedrooms (besides servants' apartments), with a
drawing-room, dining-room, and breakfast parlour. (ref. 11) The
doctor also leased some other building plots near by.
When De Valangin's estate was sold after his death in
1805, Hermes Hill House became the residence of a
timber merchant, Joseph Aldridge, who took down the
observation tower and regularized the garden front of the
house, and also built a house adjoining, 'at the rear'—
presumably, to the north. Aldridge was a disciple of the
evangelist William Huntington, SS ('Sinner Saved'), who
in 1811 took the house over as his home, residing there
until his death in 1813. (ref. 12) In Victorian times the house
seems to have remained a private residence for some years
but part of the grounds were given over to commercial
uses, principally brewing and laundering, from the 1840s.
For years the name Hermes Hill was used to refer rather
vaguely to the whole north side of John Street, which was
more or less a De Valangin enclave. The painter Thomas
Uwins is said to have been born at Hermes Hill in 1782,
precisely where is unclear. (ref. 13) (His father, also Thomas
Uwins, appears fleetingly in the ratebooks for 1776 at No.
6 Penton Street near by.) (ref. 14) The name was officially abolished in 1880 when John Street became Risinghill Street.
It lived on, however, as the name of a cul-de-sac or yard
opening off the street and surrounded by commercial and
industrial premises, of which Hermes Hill House had
become part. Among the activities carried on here were
laundering, woodworking, lens-making, bookbinding,
printing and publishing. (ref. 15) The Georgian house may have
survived in disfigured shape into the twentieth century.
John Street. The early history of the north side of John
Street, since 1880 Risinghill Street, is essentially covered
by that of Hermes Hill House. The roadway itself must
have been partly set out in the 1770s from the Penton
Street end as a means of access to Hermes Hill House and
the pavilions beyond. But the name of John Street, probably so called after Henry Penton III's grandfather John
Penton, is not recorded before 1787, when development
had just begun on the south side. Here mainly terracehouses were built between about 1786 and 1790 under the
aegis of Penton's steward, Thomas Collier, though there
were one or two larger plots near the corner with Hermes
Street. (ref. 16) As completed, John Street ran right through from
Penton Street to Rodney Street. An engraving of 1818
from Pugin and Brayley's views of Islington and
Pentonville, taken from the Rodney Street junction,
emphasizes the street's width, with houses stepping up the
hill (Ill. 421). It was curtailed to something like its original brevity of the early 1770s when the Elizabeth Garrett
Anderson (formerly Risinghill) School obliterated the
western half of Risinghill Street in the 1950s.
Hermes Street originally ran down from John Street to
Pentonville Road, bisected by Henry Street. Taking its
name from Hermes Hill House, it was in development
between about 1779 and 1788. (ref. 17) It had row houses on its
east side and a medley of buildings opposite, including the
small charity school connected with Pentonville Chapel,
first established in 1788 for twelve boys and twelve girls.
The boys transferred to Collier Street in 1811, leaving the
girls and infants in Hermes Street till 1871. (ref. 18) The first
lessee of a clutch of smaller houses at the south end of
this street, along with other such houses in Ann Street
adjoining, was Aaron Hurst, the designer of Pentonville
Chapel. (ref. 19)
In 1864 James O'Brien (Bronterre O'Brien), the
Chartist and political thinker, died after some years bedridden and in poverty, at his house, No. 20 Hermes Street.
In 1984 a commemorative plaque was mounted on the wall
alongside what is now Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School,
unveiled by the historian A. J. P. Taylor. (ref. 20)
Ann Street, now Cynthia Street, stretching only between
Pentonville Road and Henry Street, was in development
with modest terraces on either side, mostly built between
about 1786 and 1790. (ref. 21) Its name no doubt honoured Henry
Penton III's first wife; the present name refers to the
subject of the painted ceiling in Hermes Hill House. Ann
Street was apparently intended originally to connect with
John Street, for in his lease to Dr De Valangin of the
Hermes Hill House site in 1772, Henry Penton
covenanted to leave space for a road through what was then
Preston's brickfield, between the Happy Man public house
in the New Road and De Valangin's ground. (ref. 22) De Valangin
took further ground on the west side of the new street,
and later the architect Aaron Hurst was involved in speculation here, leasing a house on the east side to a City merchant, Samuel Walker of Mark Lane, who was involved in
other houses in this street. (ref. 23)
Henry Street, renamed Donegal Street in 1906 after the
home county of Captain F. T. Penton's wife, was slightly
narrower in original width than John Street to its north.
But it had a larger number of middling-sized houses. The
south side was built up between about 1779 and 1788. East
of Hermes Street a narrow alley called Prospect Row had
come into existence by 1776. (ref. 24) On this side of Henry
Street, the shortish frontage between Ann Street and
Hermes Street was leased by Penton to his steward,
Thomas Collier, in 1779. (ref. 25) A photograph of 1959, when
the buildings here were on their last legs, shows small
houses, some two and some three storeys above ground
(Ill. 530). Opposite, on the north side west of Hermes
Street, a larger take was devolved to Collier and developed
by the latter in the late 1780s in partnership with Joshua
Hodgkinson, prolific as a developer elsewhere on the
Penton estate. (ref. 26) One of the houses built here, No. 27, was
the home of the young architect E. B. Lamb, living with
his mother there in 1829. (ref. 27)
Rodney Street to Southampton Street
Here four sizeable urban blocks were projected, built up
from 1786 onwards. They were centred upon Cumming
Street, bounded on the east by Rodney Street and on the
west by Southampton (now Calshot) Street, and bisected
by Collier Street.
The head developers for these houses were the Scottish
brothers Alexander and John Cumming. Alexander was a
watchmaker and inventor of high public repute who had
been in London since the early 1760s and enjoyed royal
and aristocratic patronage; and appears also to have been
a shrewd businessman. He was first involved on the
Penton estate in development south of the New Road in
Penton Place (now Penton Rise), where he built a number
of houses under an agreement of 1779, including a villa
for his own occupation (see page 301). (ref. 28)
North of the New Road Alexander Cumming divided a
larger speculation with his brother and regular collaborator John (Ill. 425). Alexander took the Rodney Street to
Cumming Street blocks by an agreement with Henry
Penton of January 1786. (ref. 29) John followed on with the
Cumming Street to Southampton Street blocks in
November 1789.

530. Donegal Street looking east towards Penton Street
in 1959, with Risinghill School nearing completion in
foreground. White Lion Street School in left background.
All houses in Donegal Street demolished
Alexander Cumming's take between Rodney Street and
Cumming Street seems to have been quite quickly built
up, with a flurry of leases dated 1788–9, though the
Cumming Street side may have taken longer to complete. (ref. 30)
It was perhaps the best in the whole of Pentonville,
forming a kind of centrepiece to the development (Ill.
531). Here stood wide-fronted terrace houses with
spacious gardens set back behind Pentonville Chapel
(1787–8), of which Cumming was the chief promoter,
since its site formed part of his ground (see page 355). The
original concept of two large houses flanking the chapel
and facing the Pentonville Road came to nothing, but those
who chose houses on the back part of this block south of
Collier Street had the spatial amenity of the chapel's burial
ground behind their gardens.
Starting a little later, John Cumming elected to treat his
two blocks between Cumming Street and Southampton
Street a little differently from his brother. In 1788–9 he
built himself a substantial detached house, Cumming
House, facing the New Road, flanked left and right by the
short terraces of Cumming Place (see page 354). The
frontages behind on the west side of Cumming Street and
east side of Southampton Street were then partially developed with terraces of the early 1790s in the regular way. (ref. 31)
But a generous open space was left between their back
gardens, no doubt to leave an unimpeded view northwards
to the country from the back windows of Cumming
House.
The death of John Cumming in 1796 and the deceleration of building from about that time compromised this
vision. In 1802 his heir James Oswald Cumming assigned
part or all of the undeveloped ground back to Alexander
Cumming, and there is some evidence for renewed building thereafter. (ref. 32) Nevertheless by the time Hornor drew his
parish map in 1808, the block north of Collier Street was
less than half built up, and the London Female
Penitentiary, whose inmates were scarcely to be flattered
with prospects, had taken over Cumming House. That
opened the way for an extra narrow street to be driven
northwards out of Collier Street midway between
Southampton and Cumming Streets. This cul-de-sac, at
first called Wellington Street, later became the notorious
Busaco Street, the worst of Pentonville's slums. Unlike its
fellow north—south streets, it never became connected
with the Thornhill estate to its north.

531. Block between Cumming Street and Rodney Street
taken by Alexander Cumming in 1786, with Pentonville
Chapel (St James's Church) and burial ground.
From Ordnance Survey of 1871–4
An intriguing aspect of the Cummings' Pentonville
activities is their musical connections—specifically, their
passion for organ-building. Alexander Cumming first
came to fame for an organ he and his brother assembled
at Inverary Castle for the Duke of Argyll. Later he built
a machine organ for the Earl of Bute, which he bought
after Bute's death in 1792 and installed at his home in
Penton Place (see page 301), where he was rated for an
'organ shop'. (ref. 33) Cumming is known to organ-building
scholars primarily as the inventor of the double-rise reservoir bellows. Three of his 1780s leases in Pentonville were
to organ-builders: to John Wright of Clerkenwell, John
King of St Pancras and Joseph Beloudy or Bellondie of
Clerkenwell. (ref. 34) Both Beloudy and King feature in lists of
British organ-builders, King having his address in Collier
Street as late as the 1820s. (ref. 35) Another possible connection
comes through Francis Linley, a young blind composer of
some note who was organist at the Pentonville Chapel. (ref. 36)
Rodney Street. The name of Rodney Street, honouring
the victorious Admiral Lord Rodney, had been chosen by
1787. Here Alexander Cumming took some additional
ground at the top on the east side, where the street ended
abruptly in a high brick wall. It was agreed with Penton
that the northernmost piece of ground towards the fields
would not be built on but 'Paled in with an open pailing
and Kept as a Garden by way of Ornament'. (ref. 37) Set back
behind this was Rodney House, seemingly an afterthought
of around 1800 and described in auction particulars of
1837 as 'a capital abode, suited to a merchant of the first
respectability'. The resident at that time, John Stephen
Barandon or Barrandon, was indeed probably a merchant
of Austin Friars. There were 'views of Hampstead and
Highgate from the Observatory at its summit', 'a handsome uniform Front, enclosed with a Parterre and Gravel
Walk', and ample gardens. (ref. 38)
The average Rodney Street house was humbler but not
insubstantial. Such was the birthplace in May 1806 of
John Stuart Mill, No. 12 Rodney Terrace (later No. 13 and
ultimately No. 39 Rodney Street), one of what was probably a semi-detached pair with three full storeys and basement on the west side near the top of the street (Ill. 532).
His father, James Mill, had abandoned the ministry in
Scotland and come to London in 1802 to make his career
in journalism. In 1805 he married Harriet Burrow, the
daughter of a widow who owned a lunatic asylum in
Hoxton. The couple rented the Rodney Street house from
Mrs Burrow for £50 per annum. Here James Mill's
History of India was begun, but the marriage was not
happy. The family moved away in 1810. An LCC commemorative plaque, coloured green and naming both
Mills, was erected in 1907, but smashed when the house
was demolished for the Priory Green estate in about
1948. (ref. 39) A later resident in the street was the chemist John
Stenhouse, who died at his home, No. 17 Rodney Street,
in 1880. (ref. 40)
Cumming Street is now half its original length, as the
Priory Green estate obliterated its existence north of
Collier Street. It has left few visual records. A Victorian
or Edwardian postcard view suggests a wide street with
plain brick-fronted houses, rising mostly three storeys
above ground: Pevsner in 1952 noted one with 'pretty
Coade stone decoration'. (ref. 41) In one such house, unidentifiable but most likely south of Collier Street, Mary
Wollstonecraft lodged briefly with her daughter Fanny and
French maid Marguerite in the spring of 1796. It was not
many months before she became entangled with William
Godwin and moved west to new lodgings in Judd Place
West in order to be closer to him in Somers Town. (ref. 42)
Another resident was the marine painter Alfred Gomersal
Vickers, who died at his home, No. 20 Cumming Street
(north of Collier Street), at the early age of 26 in 1837. (ref. 43)
Numbering in this street changed in 1891.
Southampton Street. For a short initial period
Southampton Street was called Grace Street, after Great
Grace Field, to which the ground here had belonged. (ref. 44)
The new name reflects the Pentons' Hampshire background. It was renumbered in 1889 and in 1938 renamed
Calshot Street, after a village near Southampton on the
Solent. This was the first of Pentonville's north—south
streets to be connected with the Thornhill estate in
Islington to its north when that district began to be developed in the 1820s.
Southampton Street's houses are better recorded than
others in this lost portion of Pentonville. In the stretch
between Collier Street and Pentonville Road, photographs of the east side in the 1950s show regular threestorey houses with one near the south end, No. 14 Calshot
Street, equipped with a handsome Doric doorcase (Ills
533, 535).
Two houses in this row could briefly boast famous residents. It was to the then No. 23 Southampton Street, later
No. 35 and finally No. 18 Calshot Street, that Thomas
Carlyle moved from his friend Edward Irving's house in
Amwell Street in November 1824 during his first extended
visit to London, in order to see his life of Schiller through
the press. 'Ere long I landed in Southampton-street, a fine
clean quiet spot', he told his mother,
and found a landlady and a couple of rooms almost exactly
such as I was wanting. The rent 16/- per week, which is even
cheap for London, was a less matter with me than the comforts of the place, which were certainly such as I never hope
to realize in London. The landlady is a middle-aged cleanly,
substantial, most discreet looking person; she has a tidy girl
for a servant, and one old asthmatical damsel who lodges with
her on the ground floor, for her sole inmates. I occupy the
whole second floor, with my bedroom and parlour, and above
me, there is nothing but two empty rooms, neither of which
is likely in my time to be occupied … The room which is of
moderately large dimensions with two windows looks out
upon a little empty space, neatly paved with clean tiles, the[n]
a green wooden railing, then the flag-stones, then a new smart
street, travelled by few itself, but communicating at the distance of a few yards with the New Road, one of the great thoroughfares in London. The bedroom looks out upon green
plots (one of which belongs to the house), then a field cut with
walks, and beyond this a neat building which I believe is some
public charity [the London Female Penitentiary], and beside
it among other houses the chapel of St James' Clerkenwell,
which affords me the service of a town-clock. (ref. 45)
Carlyle kept the lodgings till February 1825, shortly before
he returned to Edinburgh.

532. No. 39 Rodney Street in 1945, with commemorative
plaque to James and John Stuart Mill. Nos 41–45 to right.
All demolished
Two doors further up the street, No. 22 Calshot Street,
formerly No. 33 Southampton Street, was in 1835–7 the
last residence of the clown Joseph Grimaldi (Ill. 534). By
then a cripple, he was regularly taken to the Marquis of
Cornwallis, a pub at the corner of Southampton Street
and Collier Street, on its landlord's back, and died in the
night after one such evening, 'by the visitation of God'. (ref. 46)
A commemorative plaque was put on the house by the
London County Council in 1938, but taken down early in
1960 when the terrace was scheduled for demolition. (ref. 47)
Collier Street. The line and full east—west extent of
Collier Street, named after Henry Penton's man of business, Thomas Collier, had been fixed by 1787, even if its
layout had not then begun. (ref. 48) It acted as an east-west crossroute and was not regarded as a focus for development,
though it certainly had houses. Two early engravings (Ills
422, 536) convey its desultory character, with the corners
given over to the flanks of buildings facing the
north—south streets or in some cases shops or pubs. One
early building of interest was the expanding Pentonville
Charity School, transferred hither from Hermes Street in
1811 into purpose-built premises, with a schoolmaster's
house adjacent. It stood on the north side of the street just
east of the corner with the new Wellington Street. (ref. 49)
Wellington Street. No visual record appears to survive
of this long cul-de-sac, renamed Busaco Street (after one
of Wellington's Peninsular War triumphs) in 1890, nor are
details of its construction readily available. It was cut
through in about 1810–12 on part of the land assigned in
1789 to John Cumming, and packed with thirty houses
(later increased to forty-four). (ref. 50) These houses were small
and probably always mean. At the north end on the west
side the pattern was broken by a short run of broader–fronted buildings, perhaps early tenements, with further
cottages crammed in courts behind, named Wellington's
Cottages or Wellington Place and Prince's Cottages or
Prime's Buildings. These unusual dwellings had been
replaced with more conventional terrace-houses by the
1890s. Busaco Street developed into a notorious slum
whose clearance became a clarion call for Finsbury
Council's inter-war rehousing policies and furnished the
original name to Tecton's housing scheme of 1937. It had
been totally demolished by 1940.
Calshot Street

533. East side (Nos 12–34, right to left) in 1953. All demolished

534 (left). East side looking towards Pentonville
Road in 1959. Marquis of Cornwallis on corner
of Collier Street at extreme left; Nos 10–34
(right to left) in centre; Pentonville Road in
background. All demolished

535 (above). No. 22, last home of Joseph
Grimaldi, in about 1937. Demolished
Southampton Street to North Street
The original taker in January 1786 of the block of Penton
land from Southampton Street to Winchester (now
Killick) Street, the next new north—south street westwards
out of the New Road, was Joshua Hodgkinson. This bricklayer-builder, sometimes described as of St Pancras and
sometimes of Lewisham, was a developer of some substance, active around this time in Somers Town, and elsewhere in Clerkenwell, on the Penton estate and at
Hamilton Row, Bagnigge Wells Road. Here, leases of
1786–8 suggest that Hodgkinson got on expeditiously
below Collier Street. (ref. 51) In addition to houses on the streets,
a small internal court was tucked within the block, named
Winchester Cottages on Hornor's map of 1808 and accessible via Winchester Court, an alley off Winchester Street.
This site provided the nucleus for the future Winton
School. Hodgkinson or his nominees probably also built
the further houses on the east side of Winchester Street
north of Collier Street that appear on Horwood's map of
1799 (Ill. 528), but by then his efforts appear to have subsided, and in the next century development here took a
different course.
The original arrangements for developing the Penton
land west of Winchester Street to the parish boundary are
obscure. It seems likely that the plan was for Hodgkinson
to tackle it along with the victualler Samuel Coney, the
partnership which in the 1780s built Pleasant Row
fronting Pentonville Road at this point (see page 361).
There is a lease of 1784 to Coney for some ground on the
east side of North (now Northdown) Street. (ref. 52) But
progress was slow, with only about fifteen dwellings in the
street completed by the end of the century, probably
including the carcase of the present No. 16, formerly the
Prince of Wales pub. (ref. 53)
In 1802 Henry Penton III drew up an agreement with
William Horsfall, then described as a builder of St
Marylebone, but perhaps identifiable as the William
Horsfall, surveyor, employed in 1778 by the Middlesex
justices to survey Hicks' Hall in St John Street, alongside
the county surveyor Thomas Rogers. (ref. 54) The agreement
concerned the whole western corner of Penton's estate,
including the block between Southampton Street and
Winchester Street leased to Hodgkinson, the area between
Winchester Street and the parish boundary including
North Street; and in addition the far larger Penton freeholds in Islington to the west and north of this boundary,
most of which was then brickfields. The whole amounted
to over twenty acres and under the agreement could be
developed under 99-year leases. In 1806–7 Horsfall was
able to acquire the freehold (Ill. 425). (ref. 55) Why Penton
should have alienated this section of his property is
unknown, but the times were not favourable and his
resources may have been stretched.

536. Collier Street, north side c. 1828, looking towards
Cumming Street. On left, Pentonville Charity School
and shop on corner of Wellington (later Busaco) Street.
All demolished
Horsfall probably focused his attention on the Islington
portion of his acquisition. There the advent of the
Regent's Canal in 1820 allowed him to construct a large
goods basin, the Horsfall (now Battlebridge) Basin, whose
opening in 1825 attracted warehouses, depots and businesses and helped to commercialize the area. (ref. 56) On the
Clerkenwell side his activities were very modest. In North
Street only a few premises seem to have been added in the
first decade of the nineteenth century. The erection before
1813 of a large brickworks for John Weston just behind
Pentonville Road west of North Street may have dinted
any ambitions for polite houses in the vicinity. (ref. 57)
Horsfall having died by 1825, his estate was inherited
in equal portions by his daughters, Elizabeth and
Charlotte. It was under Charlotte's husband, Robert
McWilliam, an architect and surveyor of Furnivals Inn,
that the development of North Street was pursued. (ref. 58)
Little is known of the Scottish-born McWilliam. No
buildings have hitherto been ascribed to him, but he was
a regular exhibitor at the Royal Academy, and published
in 1818 a significant treatise on dry rot, dedicated to the
4th Duke of Gordon and subscribed for widely among
members of the architectural profession. He became a
Justice of the Peace for Middlesex towards the end of his
life.
The handsome classically detailed terrace that is now
Nos 27–53 Northdown Street was built in 1839 by
McWilliam, who had plans in place for developing the
entire estate by the time of his death in December 1842. (ref. 59)
His will provided that his executors should sell the estate
to provide legacies and annuities for his brother and sister
in Banffshire and their offspring. (ref. 60) The Battle Bridge
estate was duly sold by auction in two parts, in 1843 and
1844. (ref. 61) At that time portions of North Street and the land
behind had still to be built up. The present Nos 32–46
Northdown Street date from the period after the sale.
Smaller dwellings built behind the frontage around this
date, notably the insalubrious North Avenue between
North Street and Winchester Street, soon degenerated
into slums.

537. Looking north-east into Islington from first phase of Priory Green Estate, c. 1952. In centre foreground, remains of Penton
estate wall, still blocking pavement in Cumming Street (left). On extreme right, Redington House, Priory Green. Mostly demolished
Early occupants of the better houses in North Street
were mostly families with one or two servants. But within
ten years the census reveals a downturn in the street's
social status, with many of the houses in multi-occupancy,
and few servants. (ref. 62)
Victorian Reconstruction
Pentonville's social decline and creeping industrialization
were palpable by the 1850s. But little could be done to
address the changed conditions until the original long
leases fell in from the 1870s onwards. The Victorian
history of the area west of Penton Street is therefore
broadly one of stagnation up to about 1870, followed by a
cluster of initiatives motivated by a combination of economic advantage and social purpose.
A symbol of the changing character of the area west of
Penton Street was a high wall along part of the northern
boundary of the Penton estate. This is likely to have been
built when the area to the north was first built up in the
1820s, with what were then no doubt less select streets
than those of Pentonville. Penton Street had probably
always been sealed off at its north end with a fence and
gate, and in 1828 the Penton Estate receiver, William
Vokes, recorded trouble with trespassers passing through
a gap there, and an incident in which the fence was broken
down to let the fire-engine get to a chimney-fire. (ref. 63) The
wall extended from at least as far east as the site of Hermes
Hill House to the western edge of the estate at
Southampton Street, cutting off the north ends of Rodney
and Cumming Streets from Rodney Street North and
Cumming Street North. (ref. 64) In 1881 Captain Penton's agent,
James Gibson, reported that the boundary wall in
Cumming Street, repaired some ten or twelve years earlier
under J. B. Watson's supervision, had been damaged by
a gale and needed repairs, 'as the children are making
their way through, and the wire work has completely
disappeared'. (ref. 65)
By this date the wall must have represented a futile
rearguard action against the social changes affecting the
estate and the depreciation of property there. Ten years
later, probably as a result of objections by the new
London County Council, which secured an Act of
Parliament for the removal of gates and bars in various
London streets in 1890, (ref. 66) the roadways of Cumming and
Rodney Streets were opened up to their northern continuations. However, reluctance to demolish the wall is
evident, as part of it still blocked the pavement in
Cumming Street until the wholesale redevelopments after
the Second World War (Ill. 537).
As most of the buildings mentioned in this section have
been destroyed, it is organized thematically. Fuller
accounts of the few buildings that survive appear in the
final section of the chapter.
Housing
Significant housing redevelopment took place in the 1870s
and 80s, as leases expired, in the form of traditional houses
and tenements alike. Only one scheme affected the street
layout. This was Affleck Street (1884–5), an addition to
the Pentonville grid sandwiched between Calshot Street
and Cumming Street on the site of the London Female
Penitentiary, and consisting mainly of flats or tenements.
Since the few remains of Affleck Street face Pentonville
Road, the reader is referred to the account of that road for
further details (page 360).
Pentonville's earliest purpose-built tenements, like
those in Affleck Street, were all private speculations. The
first appeared during the 1870s in the Hermes Hill—John
Street area, and are described in further detail below
(Hermes Street dwellings; Penton and Rodney
Residences). In addition, John Street (Risinghill Street
from 1880) and Rodney Street acquired further new
dwellings. On the south side, four new houses were built
west of Hermes Street (Benjamin Carpenter, builder,
1871); five houses known as Royal Terrace east of Hermes
Street (William Royal, 1879); and three small tenements
west of Carpenter's houses (William Walton, undertaker,
1879). (ref. 67) Five further new houses designed in 1879 by the
Penton estate surveyor, T. H. Watson, were probably on
the north side, where Risinghill Street School was also
built soon afterwards. (ref. 68) In Rodney Street, piecemeal
rebuildings took place between about 1880 and 1886 under
the auspices of the builder A. G. Allard with help from
the architect J. Laws. Some of this involved reconditioning old houses, but much was new work. It included the
rebuilding of the Rodney's Head pub at the corner with
Henry (Donegal) Street, and what seems to have been a
substantial five-storey block with bay windows running
south from the corner with Collier Street, very likely
occupied as tenements. (ref. 69)
The efforts of the major philanthropic dwelling companies in building model dwellings in Pentonville were
confined to a pair of blocks erected further west in 1894–5,
Winton Houses in Killick (Winchester) Street and the surviving Pollard Houses in Northdown (North) Street, also
separately discussed below.
All the buildings in the vicinity of Risinghill Street
mentioned above and below were either badly damaged in
the Second World War or in an area already then scheduled for clearance. Their sites are now covered by the
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School.
Model dwellings, Hermes Street. This small speculative venture was initiated by Thomas Flight, perhaps
Victorian London's most notorious 'slumlord', who was
said at one time to control as many as 18,000 houses. (ref. 70) It
shows that Flight sometimes built new tenements as well
as taking over existing houses.
In 1868 Flight obtained a lease of two substantial properties on the west side of Hermes Street, one of which was
still then in use as part of the Pentonville charity school
(page 408), as well as an adjacent row on the north side of
Henry Street. A first plan to demolish the Hermes Street
houses and replace them with two semi-detached pairs,
with further pairs of houses behind, was rejected by the
Metropolitan Board of Works. (ref. 71)
Flight therefore decided instead to replace the two
houses with two blocks of model dwellings. The new
scheme, as presumably also the original one, was
designed by Banister Fletcher, Flight's house-surveyor,
and illustrated in his Model Homes for the Industrial
Classes (1871). The first block was erected in 1870, and
in his book Fletcher speaks of these dwellings as having
'answered extremely well, no difficulty having been
experienced in letting every set of apartments on remunerative terms'. (ref. 72) The second, adjacent block seems to
have been built in 1880–1, after Flight's death. (ref. 73) The
deep-plan tenements appeared from the road like a pair
of plain, two-storey, double-fronted houses (Ill. 538).
Each flat consisted of a living-room, scullery, two bedrooms and a WC. A feature of the planning was that the
second bedroom was only accessible from a rather poorly
lit common hallway (shared by the occupants of four
flats). This was done on the assumption that it was likely
to be occupied by a lodger. On the ground floor the WCs
were out in a yard, but those upstairs opened off the
scullery.
Penton and Rodney Residences. These contiguous tenement blocks occupied the site of the houses and gardens
at the top end of Rodney Street on the east side. They
were built in 1878–9 for the Sanitary Dwellings Co. Ltd,
which had been set up by Banister Fletcher and others in
1876 and for which he acted as architect and surveyor.
They resembled Fletcher's earlier Hermes Street
dwellings begun for Thomas Flight, being mostly of
similar footprint to those buildings, but of four storeys.
The apartments at Rodney Residences included a washroom, but at Penton Residences timber wash-houses were
provided on the roof. (ref. 74)
Rodney Residences made up a row of three blocks with
their entrances facing Rodney Street: back to back with
these stood three of the Penton Residences blocks, which
were reached from a passage on the north side of John
(Risinghill) Street. Four more blocks, of slightly variant
shape and size, occupied two sides of a courtyard east of
these. (ref. 75)
If the aspiring name 'Residences' was chosen to match
the character of the intended tenants it does not seem to
have been successful in the long term. By 1894 the owner
was recorded as W. Prichard, a solicitor in Bedford Row,
though he may only have been acting as agent for new
owners. At all events, it was Prichard's firm which complained to the Penton Estate in 1909 that there had been
'considerable difficulty' in letting flats there, 'and in fact
respectable people cannot be got to take the rooms'. This
was blamed on the dilapidated state of neighbouring
houses, and more particularly on the use by prostitutes
of houses immediately opposite, on the south side of
Risinghill Street. (ref. 76)

538. Model dwellings, Hermes Street, street elevation and plans. Banister Fletcher, architect.
Left half built in 1870, right half probably in 1880–1. Demolished

539. Winton Houses, Winchester (now Killick) Street, in 1898.
Davis & Emmanuel, architects, for the East End Dwellings
Co., 1894–5. Demolished
Winton Houses and Pollard Houses. These two blocks,
standing almost but not quite back to back on Killick
Street and Northdown Street, were erected simultaneously in 1894–5 by the East End Dwellings Co., to the
designs of their regular architects, Davis & Emmanuel,
with S. J. Jerrard as builder. (ref. 77) Large-scale walk-up flats on
five storeys, they represented a swansong for the model
dwellings movement at a time when flatted housing was
changing under the auspices of the London County
Council. In appearance they mitigated the austerity of the
older blocks with a lively roofline sporting turrets and
occasional gables. On Pollard Houses, the standard stock
bricks were relieved by friendlier red dressings. Winton
Houses, now demolished, seems to have been a touch
plainer (Ill. 539).
Winton Houses occupied the larger and more open of
the two sites, where Stuart Mill House now stands. Its
outline plan was U-shaped, with slightly projecting open
staircases in the centres of each of the three sides of the
court. Pollard Houses consisted of two parallel blocks, one
facing North (now Northdown) Street, the other in a court
behind. Both buildings were badly damaged by bombing
in 1944, after which Winton Houses was demolished but
Pollard Houses was deemed in good enough condition to
be repaired.
Schools, chapels and social institutions
Pentonville's two existing schools date back to the era of
Victorian improvement. Originally board schools,
Winchester Street School (1872–3) and Risinghill Street
School (1884) have both expanded to envelop the urban
block in whose midst they were at first tightly implanted.
Winchester Street School is now Winton School, Killick
Street, while Risinghill Street School has become the
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School, a comprehensive
that today hogs two whole former Penton estate gridrectangles. As major presences in the area today, they are
dealt with in detail below (pages 419–21, 432–5).
Various more ephemeral schools and clubs also sprang
up in this period, a minority in purpose-built premises.
The main church school was the Pentonville Charity
School, sometimes later known as St James's Pentonville
Schools. The boys' school on the north side of Collier
Street was reported in 1871 as 'in a most deplorable condition', with a shortage of books for the younger pupils.
The girls' and infants' department, in which instruction
was also condemned as 'far from efficient', was just then
being rebuilt on the opposite side of Collier Street at the
back of the long strip of graveyard behind Pentonville
Chapel. The new building, designed by Habershon &
Brock and built by C. Wood of Highgate, was in a stripy
brick Gothic style, with two floors of schoolrooms over a
covered playground. (ref. 78) In 1887 the boys' school was augmented by a mission hall, the Stubbs Memorial Hall, said
to have been converted from a factory. (ref. 79)
Among the slew of foundations trying to lift Pentonville
from its slough between 1880 and 1914 were the North
London Working Men's Club in Rodney Street; the
'entirely unsectarian' (ref. 80) Red White and Blue Christian
Institute for Lads in Cumming Street, which besides its
other efforts sent women, girls and boys ('of the very poor
and rough class') on seaside holidays; a Christian Israelites
meeting-house in Hermes Street; and the Howard
Institute for Women in Cynthia Street. (ref. 81) The London
Female Penitentiary in Pentonville Road was a major institutional presence from the early nineteenth century until
its departure to Stoke Newington in the 1880s.
In general, the main nonconformist churches were
poorly represented in Pentonville, in part perhaps because
of opposition from the Penton Estate. A Methodist chapel
built on the east side of Winchester (Killick) Street after
1875 (not on Penton ground) was short-lived, succumbing to the expansion of the Winchester Street School
around 1910.
Public houses were naturally concentrated along
Pentonville Road, but even in the streets to the north the
effects of the late Victorian pub-building boom were felt.
The Rodney's Head at the north corner of Rodney Street
and Henry Street was rebuilt in 1885–6 (J. Laws, architect), (ref. 82) and, to judge from its appearance, the Marquis of
Cornwallis at the south-east corner of Southampton
Street and Collier Street was also rebuilt (Ill. 535).
Industry
As elsewhere in Clerkenwell, this part of Pentonville never
lacked house-based craft industries. In Hermes Street, one
of the minor and probably poorer streets, the following
trades are represented in the directories for the 1880s:
bricklayer, builder, camera maker, carpenter, copperplate
maker, cowkeeper, endorsing press maker, painter, tailor,
telegraph instrument maker, timber merchant and waterproof maker. Most of these probably operated from home
or from their yards behind. (ref. 83)
A shift toward larger, purpose-built premises can be
seen after 1870. At first most of the larger works were on
or immediately behind Pentonville Road, with a few
exceptions like a large 'wheel and axle works' on the north
side of John (Risinghill) Street, installed or enlarged in
1862. (ref. 84) But by 1894 there were substantial works behind
both sides of Risinghill Street and off Rodney Street,
Cumming Street and Southampton (Calshot) Street. By
1938 the biggest of the Pentonville Road enterprises,
Lilley & Skinner's boot and shoe warehouse, had reached
right back to Collier Street, south of which much of the
old housing was given over to commercial uses of one kind
or another. (ref. 85)
A few remnants of old industrial premises survive,
largely in Pentonville's westernmost streets. They include
the large factory-warehouse at Nos 61–71 Collier Street,
built in 1905 for blacking manufacturers. (ref. 86)
Existing Buildings
Up until the Second World War the pattern of wide streets
lined by low, drab and ageing buildings still obtained for
most of the area. Nevertheless between Pentonville Road
and the line of Collier Street and Donegal Street, industry was the strongest force. North of that line there still
stood mostly decrepit housing in multi-occupation, but
much-longed-for municipal activity in slum clearance had
begun. It was a decade before Grimaldi House (1926–7),
its harbinger at the top of Calshot Street, was joined by
the London County Council's Bonington House on the
North Avenue slum site. But from 1937 Finsbury Council
had been nurturing grand plans, having called in Tecton
to clear Busaco Street and everything around it and substitute an exemplary display of high modern flats for a
resurgent Pentonville working class. When war was
declared, almost the whole block bounded by Calshot,
Collier, Cumming and Grimaldi Streets had been flattened
(Ill. 545). The Council was gearing up to tackle also a
second large clearance area south of Wynford Road, on
either side of Rodney Street.
Western Pentonville is a textbook example of an area
where wartime bombing facilitated the kind of comprehensive redevelopment that architect-planners had dreamt
of but could hardly have hoped to realize on such a scale.
Even though the bombing hit the district harder than some
others, particularly around Risinghill Street and the south
end of Killick Street, much of the damage consisted
simply in rendering outworn properties frailer and more
expendable.
With the Penton Estate itself in its last throes as a body,
imposing a new shape upon this unloved area fell to
Finsbury Council, seconded (though sometimes checked)
by the LCC. Priory Green (1948–58), as the reconfigured
and expanded Tecton design for Busaco Street became
after the war, announced the vision for the new
Pentonville, turning away from the street in all its arrogant magnificence to invoke, so it was hoped, a fresh local
pattern of community, pride and culture. But the underlying problems of the area could not be solved by building alone, and the estate was not a social success. The
LCC's Risinghill School (1957–60), also inward-looking
and occupying two whole former blocks, encountered
similar problems more dramatically. By the time of its
embarrassing closure in 1965, the years of post-war idealism were on the wane. When Islington came to build
housing in succession to Finsbury, it was more cautious,
though on the Priors Estate of 1970–4 it had not yet abandoned the ideal of self-containment and inwardness.
While solving urgent problems of security, the railing-in
and privatization of the main estates since the 1990s has
done nothing to dispel the image of turning away from the
street.
So far has the tide of municipal power now ebbed that
Islington Council has today ceased not only to build but
even to manage the huge portfolio of housing it once held
in this area, though it runs a neighbourhood office in
Calshot Street. Some new homes have been added by
housing associations and the like, especially in the western
sector. But the main impetus in the past thirty years has
come from commercial interests which have replaced the
old sites of productive industry north of Pentonville Road
with a series of, on the whole, fairly colourless office and
studio buildings. Only on the Pentonville Road—Killick
Street—Collier Street—Calshot Street block has commerce
tried to impose the kind of full-block redevelopment
which the municipal planners once favoured, with the
Chapman Taylor development for Sterling Properties
begun in 1973 (see page 364); it has proved no more successful. Most architecture since that period, aesthetically
ambitious or not, has confined itself to small-scale initiatives, insignificant compared to the infrastructural and
social upheavals of 1945–75.
The following account of the buildings proceeds
roughly from east to west, in three main sections divided
by the lines of Rodney Street and Calshot Street. Joseph
Grimaldi Park is dealt with in the context of the demolished church of St James, Pentonville, in Chapter XIV.
Risinghill, Donegal and Cynthia
Streets Area
Wynford Estate
This small housing estate occupies a tight site wedged
between the back of St Silas's Church and the Elizabeth
Garrett Anderson School, running up to Wynford Road
on the north. It was built to the designs of Westwood, Piet,
Poole & Smart for the Greater London Council about
1973–5, and comprises three brick blocks of flats and
maisonettes varying in height from three to five storeys.
The blocks are aligned east—west, in approximate parallel.
The northernmost and longest, sited at the eastern end of
Wynford Road, has balcony-access flats numbered 94–164
in that road. Vehicular access through a tunnel in its centre
leads to the blocks behind, Nos 1–12 and 14–27 Chalbury
Walk. These are sited away from street frontages and
accessible also from a secondary pedestrian entrance from
Risinghill Street.
The original accommodation consisted of two-person
units with five- and six-person maisonettes above. In
reviewing the estate, the Architects' Journal criticized the
quality of the brickwork, the use of tile-hanging, and the
proportions and detailing of the windows, blaming these
defects largely on the 'incompatibility of brief, site conditions and restrictions of the cost yardstick'. (ref. 87) The
Wynford Estate passed from the GLC to Islington
Council, and in 2000 was one of the estates taken over
from Islington by the Peabody Trust under the King's
Cross Ten scheme.
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School (formerly
Risinghill School)
In educational history Risinghill is synonymous with a
crisis in secondary teaching styles that erupted here in
1965, leading to the closure of the school of that name.
Since then this diffusely planned school has twice changed
its title. Most of its blocks were designed by the
Architects' Co-Partnership and date from 1957–60. But
among them remains the old Risinghill Street board
school, built between 1884 and 1899 (Ill. 540).
As now, that original school occupied a boxed-in site
away from the street frontage, where a wheel and axle
works had stood. First planned in 1882–3 to the designs
of the School Board for London's architect E. R.
Robson, (ref. 88) it had the three storeys typical for its date, with
classrooms ranged around assembly halls on each of the
floors. The first portion, erected by the builder S. J.
Jerrard in 1884–5, catered for 1,200 pupils and could be
reached only from a gap between houses on the north side
of the street. (ref. 89) In 1898–9 the south end of the building
was completed by G. S. S. Williams & Son with classrooms
for some 300 further pupils, opening up the access but
entailing the demolition of several houses. (ref. 90) To judge from
inspectors' reports, the school in its elementary years
grappled manfully with Pentonville's endemic poverty and
overcrowding. (ref. 91)
Risinghill Street was gravely damaged by Second World
War bombing, though the school was less affected than the
surrounding houses and kept in use. The drab render
which covers its brickwork and the shearing-off of the
building's north end may both date back to that period. A
small concrete Orlit house for the schoolkeeper was built
next to its south end in 1949, and survives. (ref. 92)
In 1947 the London County Council earmarked the
area for one of the large new mixed secondary comprehensive schools proposed under its London School Plan.
When the project came forward in 1955, it was agreed to
plan for 1,700 places on the difficult sloping site instead
of the 2,000 then thought ideal for comprehensives, and
to buy only part of the land, building for 1,250 in the first
instance. (ref. 93) Nevertheless the plan entailed the clearing of
almost two complete urban blocks down to the north side
of Donegal Street and the east side of Rodney Street, and
thus the obliteration of the western two-thirds of
Risinghill Street and the northern end of Hermes Street.
The school's design was assigned to the Architects' CoPartnership, a firm with ample experience of post-war
school building (partner in charge, Kenneth Capon); (ref. 94) Ove
Arup & Partners were their consulting engineers. At that
date the LCC was experimenting with various arrangements for the novel type of the comprehensive school,
some by their own architects, others farmed out to private
firms. At Risinghill the advice of the Ministry of
Education (which the LCC did not always heed) was followed. The plan was broken down into discrete elements
and a house-system instigated, whereby pupils throughout the age-range shared social space in groupings of
moderate size. Most of the 'houserooms' were consigned
to the old building, which was replanned for the purpose.
The rest of the accommodation was split between three
larger blocks nearer Donegal Street, for teaching, assembly and gymnasia, and four smaller ones to the north-west
for science and crafts.
Advantage was taken of the sloping site in grouping the
elements, and playpitches were interspersed between
them. In the architects' minds, the larger blocks were reminiscent of Islington squares. (ref. 95) The new buildings, erected
in 1957–60 with J. M. Hills & Sons as general contractors,
rose to no more than three storeys. The teaching block is
a concrete-framed structure with generous corridors and
stairs round an open court; the assembly block, visible
from the surviving stub of Risinghill Street, is steelframed; while the three gymnasia at the corner of Donegal
and Rodney Streets are fronted in handsome brickwork
(Ill. 541). (ref. 96)
Amalgamating four previous secondary schools,
Risinghill opened in May 1960 with 1,200 children under
the headmastership of Michael Duane (Ill. 542). (ref. 97)
Practical subjects were emphasized in the curriculum,
including courses in engineering, instrument-making,
dressmaking and commerce. 'We shall watch with interest
as these plans unfold and children receive the benefit their
parents never dreamed of when they were at school',
remarked the parish priest of neighbouring St Silas's. (ref. 98) In
the event the rebuilt school underwent a turbulent early
history. Duane proved a charismatic head, but his liberal
attitude to discipline (in an area described by one journalist as having 'some of the worst slums, brothels, and
clubs in North London') led to rifts with his staff, falling
rolls and official concern. (ref. 99) By January 1965 the school was
'bordering on social collapse', with many children on probation or in juvenile courts, numerous incidents of vandalism, violence and petty arson and one attempt at a mass
break-out. According to one of the teachers, Terence
Constable, 'Duane's publicity work, in an attempt to get
support from outside, seemed a major cause of the
continuing excitement among the children'. (ref. 100)
Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School, Risinghill Street

540. Looking east from Rodney Street in
2006. In background, former Risinghill
Street Board School

541. Gymnasia at corner of Rodney and
Donegal Streets in 2007

542. Headmaster Michael Duane welcomes pupils to the new Risinghill School,
4 March 1960. Houses on the south side of
Donegal Street behind (demolished)
The LCC therefore decided to shut Risinghill and redeploy Duane, under the guise of rearranging school accommodation in the area. National publicity ensued, while
schoolchildren marched through the streets demanding
Duane's reinstatement. That did not take place: instead,
the school was reinvented as Starcross School for Girls
and opened under new management in September 1965. (ref. 101)
The controversy was rekindled three years later when
Leila Berg published her Risinghill: Death of a
Comprehensive School. The book depicted Duane as a hero
grappling with social and psychological deprivation, and
placed part of the blame on the 'graceless and stark' buildings. Among others, Constable disputed this reading: 'The
building was good enough, anyway, to win an architectural
award'. (ref. 102) Even if the loose, liberal planning abetted
Risinghill's woes, more important was the abrupt amalgamation of four schools into one, which helped to create a
gang culture. (ref. 103)
In 1985 Starcross School was merged with Barnsbury
School to form Elizabeth Garrett Anderson School for
Girls, named after the women's rights campaigner and first
female member of the School Board for London. (ref. 104) The
one significant addition to the 1950s buildings has been
'Platform 1', a concrete block part-clad in slate-coloured
fibre-cement board, inserted east of the teaching block
facing Donegal Street, designed by Gollifer Langston
Architects and opened in 2003. A detached nursery with
curving geometries and polycarbonate facings stands in
front. The brief allowed for community access under a
'city learning centre programme', with linguistic skills in
mind both for children and adults, since 'more than 57 languages are spoken within the school'. (ref. 105) In 2006 the adult
facility closed and its space was subsumed into school
accommodation. A press article in that year depicted a
school struggling valiantly against a poor image in the
local community, not unlike its predecessors. (ref. 106)
Prospect, Rodney and Penton Houses
These three blocks of council flats, of disparate size, were
built for Finsbury Borough Council in 1962–5 by Pitchers
Ltd, to the designs of Emberton, Franck & Tardrew. They
make up what was known until recently as the O. M. Richards
Estate, after Owen Richards, a Finsbury councillor.
Plans for clearing and redeveloping the tired and wardamaged district south of Donegal Street came forward in
1957. Finsbury's first thought had been to tackle a small
patch next to Cynthia Street, but in that year its Housing
Committee's appetite expanded to an area bounded on the
west by Rodney Street and including most of Cynthia
Street and Hermes Street, with southern and eastern
boundaries largely defined by the backs of properties in
Pentonville Road and Penton Street. The implications
were to abolish all but the southernmost part of Hermes
Street, already curtailed by the Risinghill School project
to the north. In July 1960 Finsbury finally obtained a compulsory purchase order. Negotiations over detail ensued
with the Cockington Trust, freeholders of most of the
property in succession to the Penton Estate. (ref. 107)

543. Rodney House (foreground) and Prospect House (rear),
O. M. Richards Estate, Donegal Street, in 2006.
Emberton, Franck & Tardrew, architects, 1962–5
Emberton, Franck & Tardrew, already engaged on other
work for Finsbury, had meanwhile been confirmed as
architects. (ref. 108) In March 1961 they produced plans for two
blocks: one of three storeys running along Donegal Street
(Rodney House), and one of eight or nine higher up the
hill (Prospect House). After an attempt to spatchcock two
extra small blocks on the eastern part of the site, it was
decided to add only a single, two-storey block of balconyaccess flats (Penton House), set back south of Prospect
House. As built, Prospect House rose to ten storeys,
Rodney House to four (Ill. 543). (ref. 109)
With C. L. Franck's drive and the help of Felix J.
Samuely & Partners, the architects' usual consulting engineers, for the foundations and concrete frames, the estate
seems to have been efficiently worked out and built in
1962–5, despite early delays from severe weather. The ceremonial opening of Prospect House in January 1965 was
Finsbury Council's final public act before its absorption
into Islington. (ref. 110) The first intended name was the Donegal
Estate; that of O. M. Richards was substituted just before
the opening. (ref. 111)
Alone among Emberton, Franck & Tardrew's undertakings for Finsbury, this estate was not published. Some
of its detailing, though not its planning, followed their
larger King Square Estate in Finsbury, started shortly
before. The fronts are clad in precast concrete panels and
grey bricks, not improved by later over-painting and
changes to the windows. Rodney House is marked by hefty
refuse-chutes that rise up to the roof through the three
external balconies facing Donegal Street. Prospect House,
the squarish point block near the top of the hill, originally
had an open base, and still retains the curved roof over the
drying area on top—a reminder of the earlier Tecton
housing in Finsbury on which Franck had worked. Its
ground floor was enclosed when entryphones and other
security features were installed on the estate by
Hutchinson & Partners in 1984. The fencing round the
blocks dates from about 1993. (ref. 112)
Other buildings
Until about 1930 the firm of Dunn & Hewett had an
extensive cocoa and chocolate factory between Cynthia
Street and Rodney Street, which grew from the firm's
original premises at Nos 130–134 Pentonville Road (see
page 354). Two buildings surviving from the works are
Nos 4–10 Rodney Street and 6–9 Cynthia Street.
The Rodney Street building is a plain five-storey warehouse, set back from the street and abutting on to the back
of Nos 136–150 Pentonville Road. It is dated 1915. Now
in studio-office use, it has a chic extension of c. 1997 at the
north end, clad in aluminium and glass. (ref. 113)
Nos 6–9 Cynthia Street represent an extension of the
1880s and 90s, eight and a half bays wide with a goods
entrance near the north end. In 1985 this building was
made into four self-contained light-industrial units by
CZWG Architects for SG Consulting Ltd, with Hayden
Blake as builders. More recently, it has been converted to
media-related uses as part of a 'Centre for Media
Excellence'. (ref. 114) On the front of the building is a probably
re-used stone tablet inscribed with a tag from Psalms,
except the lord keep the city the watchman waketh
but in vain.
Adjoining, Nos 3–5 Cynthia Street is a three-storey
building with a ground-floor workshop and a maisonette
flat above set back behind a garden-terrace. It was built in
1994–5 as the Flower House, to the designs of Peter
Romaniuk, architect, for his wife, Paula Pryke, florist to
celebrities. (ref. 115) The workshop is steel-framed, with sliding
glass-block screens across the whole front.

544. Grimaldi House, Calshot Street, in 2006. E. C. P.
Monson, architect, for Finsbury Borough Council, 1926–7

545. Busaco Street clearance area, c. 1939. In background, west side of Calshot Street (demolished) and Grimaldi House (right)

546. Priory Green Estate looking north from Collier Street in 2007
Between Rodney and Calshot Streets
Grimaldi House, Calshot Street
The origins of the clearance and reconstruction project
that led to the rebuilding of the whole quadrilateral
bounded by Collier Street, Calshot Street, Wynford Road
and Rodney Street, the disappearance of Busaco Street
and Grimaldi Street, and the removal of the northern half
of Cumming Street, go back to October 1924. Just then
Finsbury Borough Council was actively looking for sites
to build its own housing for the first time, when its attention was drawn to slum properties at Nos 88–94
Southampton Street and No. 1a Grimaldi Street—on
ground (belonging to the Thornhill Estate) north of the
old parish boundary, which had been designated part of
Finsbury on the creation of the Metropolitan Boroughs in
1900. The council's Medical Officer of Health duly
declared the properties unfit, prompting a closing order,
and in February 1926 the council agreed to buy them. (ref. 116)
Grimaldi House, the modest block of municipal tenements built on these sites, represented Finsbury's pioneering effort in municipal housing. A larger scheme at
Mandeville Houses, Mantell Street, was projected a fraction earlier but completed later (page 403). The rebuilding was entrusted to the architect E. C. P. Monson, whose
plans were promptly carried out in 1926–7 by Canonbury
Construction Ltd. Dwarfed today by its neighbour, Priory
Green, the block is five storeys in height and L-shaped in
plan. Its main external fronts are of plain red brick with
neo-Georgian sash windows (Ills 544, 545). Access to the
upper flats is by an internal stair at the rear of the building and by external balconies. The accommodation was
generous for its day, with a separate scullery, bathroom and
toilet for each of the original fifteen flats. (ref. 117)
Grimaldi House was less than a decade old when
Lubetkin and Tecton first planned their adjacent Busaco
Street housing scheme. In some early designs for this
project it abutted directly against the new blocks, to which
it offered a strange contrast. Doubtless the Tecton architects would have preferred to remove it, but it was too
useful and recent for that. A real threat of demolition first
arose in the late 1970s. The block was refurbished to
provide flats for single people but not finally reprieved
until 1986. (ref. 118) Grimaldi House is now owned and managed
by the Peabody Trust together with the Priory Green
Estate.
Priory Green Estate
Priory Green is the most grandly conceived of the three
arresting housing estates designed under Berthold
Lubetkin for Finsbury (Ill. 546). Its genesis was long and
tortuous. Clearance of slums at the core of the site had
been anticipated well before Tecton were appointed architects in 1937. Even so, building started only in 1948, after
many modifications and a major enlargement that shifted
the estate's centre of gravity, and did not finish until 1958.
Its subsequent history has not been easy.
The Grimaldi House project drew Finsbury Council's
attention to the wider urgency of improving housing in
this part of Pentonville. Broader horizons seemed to dawn
when the Housing Act of 1930 offered incentives for slum
clearance. The Labour administration, then in its first
term of power on the Council (1928–31), identified six
areas for action. One was Busaco Street, the deep and fetid
cul-de-sac running north off Collier Street which gave
this housing scheme its original name. In effect it was a
shorthand for a complete urban block packed with almost
a thousand people, bounded by Grimaldi Street to the
north, Southampton Street to the west and Cumming
Street to the east. A study of Busaco Street was commissioned from the Medical Officer of Health, and the Penton
Estate agreed to sell the property. But the financial stringency of these years dashed hopes of progress. (ref. 119)
In 1935 a fresh Housing Act directed authorities to
survey and tackle overcrowding. Coinciding with the
advent of Finsbury's second Labour administration under
Harold Riley's leadership, this breathed fresh life into the
scheme. Finsbury's survey identified Pentonville as the
borough's worst district for overcrowding and refocused
attention on Busaco Street. (ref. 120) Meanwhile Riley's chief ally
of the time, Dr Katial, then vice-chairman of the Housing
Committee, had commissioned Lubetkin and Tecton to
design the Finsbury Health Centre. The two were soon
discussing the possibilities for collaborating on housing
(page 16). Brief notes of October 1936 moot Tecton's
involvement in a proposed housing site at Southampton
Street. (ref. 121) They were formally involved at Busaco Street by
the following spring, producing their first designs soon
after. (ref. 122)
For Lubetkin and his firm, Busaco Street offered the
chance to test and advance a design methodology they had
propounded in 1935, when they won a competition for
working men's flats promoted by the Cement Marketing
Co. (ref. 123) Tecton's proposal was for slabs aligned in strict parallel, following the so-called Zeilenbau site-layout prevalent in Weimar Germany and lately publicized in Britain.
The design championed generous flats off staircases
instead of access galleries, and fuller services than such
dwellings usually enjoyed. It also drew on Tecton's experience at their Highpoint One flats in Highgate (1933–5)
by advocating a concrete structure with solid external
walls raised with sliding shuttering, developed by Ove
Arup. This, they argued, would save enough to allow
better accommodation and services.
The 1935 competition had asked only for five-storey
flats without lifts. Since Finsbury was obliged to rehouse
all those it displaced and had few alternative sites at its disposal, it followed that Busaco Street needed to be denser,
calling for higher flats with lifts. Despite modernist
clamour, few working-class flats in high slabs served by
lifts had as yet been built. The chief precedent was a single
nine-storey slab with balcony access on the Bergpolder
development, Rotterdam (1933–4). The more monumental of the urban working-class estates built in 1920s Vienna
like the Karl Marx-Hof, rising in parts to seven storeys,
also had a few lifts.
From start to finish, Tecton's plans for the estate maintained the parti of two grand parallel blocks running
north-south, facing on to an ample central garden open
towards Collier Street at the south end, with a separate
block commanding the north end of the site. It was the
architects' evident original intention to create the image of
a working-class stronghold. As first designed, the main
blocks would have been over 400 ft long—not quite
unprecedented, as the Karl Marx-Hof and its London
derivative, Levita House of 1930–1 on the London
County Council's Ossulston Estate in Somers Town, had
been longer.
There were several pre-war schemes in close succession, all centred on the axis of Busaco Street and abutting
closely at the north-west corner on to the recent Grimaldi
House, to which they presented a defiant contrast. To start
with, the Tecton partner Francis Skinner, who took the
lead in the planning and sociological research for Busaco
Street, proposed tacking on the new blocks to Grimaldi
House, but that was soon abandoned. (ref. 124) A first full
scheme, for 227 flats housing 1,060 people, had been
worked up by September 1937 and was described and
sketchily illustrated in the Finsbury Citizen just before the
elections that November. (ref. 125) A second scheme, accompanied by a fuller report, was accepted by the Housing
Committee in May 1938. (ref. 126)
The report of May 1938 sets out Lubetkin and Tecton's
pre-war thinking about the Finsbury housing projects.
Many layouts had been tried, it explains, before the notion
of two large ranges was hit upon, as the only means to
combine high density with sufficient light, air and playground space. A total of 1,041 people (63 more than then
lived on the site) were now to be housed in 234 flats. At
this stage the building at the north end consisted of a fivestorey walk-up block set back from the line of Grimaldi
Street, with flats and stairs at the ends and maisonettes (a
concept familiar from earlier Finsbury housing) in the
centre reached by north-facing galleries on alternate
levels. In front of it was planned a low single-storey block
with six old people's flats and a caretaker's flat in the
centre, facing on to the open space, which Tecton had
already earmarked for a possible air-raid shelter. The low
block was linked at its ends to the main 400 ft-long ranges.
Rising to between seven or eight storeys according to the
lie of the land, these were served by staircases augmented
by a lift at either end of each range, running from ground
to roof level without intermediate stops. By this hybrid
arrangement, justified on grounds of cost and 'great simplicity of operation', tenants of higher flats could avoid
some stair-climbing. Strong breaks and recessions on both
sides were achieved by reversing the plans of alternate
flats, each opening off its own half-landing from one of
the eight common staircases in each block. This changeful outline, along with the presence of east-west as well as
north-south blocks, gave notice that Lubetkin was intent
on softening rigid Zeilenbau outlines.
Habitable rooms throughout the 1938 scheme faced
only south, east or west. All dwellings had private recessed
balconies attached to the living-rooms. In respect of
equipment, provision was poised between old and new.
Solid fuel was to be burnt in all flats, and bathrooms were
to be equipped with gas-coppers for washing. The Tecton
report hankered for a central laundry, but admitted the
difficulties of persuading tenants to use such communal
facilities, which required 'a definite timetable' as well as
provisions for childcare. On the other hand the architects
intended to specify the Garchey system of waste-disposal
(through the base of the kitchen sink), lately introduced
from France for the Quarry Hill flats in Leeds (1935–9).

547, 548. Busaco Street Housing, preliminary scheme. Tecton, architects.
Model of 1938 (left) and model of north-south blocks, 1939, with Grimaldi House to right at rear

549. Priory Green Estate, plans of north-south blocks showing scheme of 1939 and scheme as built

550. Priory Green Estate. Coloured tone shows final extent of estate.
Within red line, area of Busaco Street scheme (1939), with north-south blocks superimposed
The 1938 report also reveals that Lubetkin and Arup
intended to dispense with load-bearing external walls in
favour of 'a reinforced concrete skeleton … with infilling
panels for the walls'. Quite what was intended is not clear,
but probably not an orthodox concrete frame. The method
was supposed to provide employment for a range of
trades, including bricklayers, while the infill panels, 'of
insulating blocks with a non-porous, weatherproof, hardwearing coloured facing', would 'present a cheerful
appearance in a drab district'. Exposed concrete walls
would be covered with tile or faience.
The basis for Busaco Street—a central court, concrete
construction with colourful facings, and private recessed
balconies for all the flats—was thus established. But the
design had yet to undergo many vicissitudes. By October
1938, when the scheme is first illustrated in the architectural press, (ref. 127) the low block has vanished, while five-storey
wings now terminate the southern end of the long ranges,
tallying with the block at the back and half-enclosing the
open space (Ill. 547). Generous porches also preface the
stairs of the main ranges. In another undated model,
allegedly the final project agreed before the war, only the
long ranges are shown, without the southern returns or
projecting porches (Ill. 548). (ref. 128) Corresponding plans (Ill.
549) suggest that the lifts had risen to five in each block,
and that bathroom coppers had been rejected in favour of
a communal laundry, not yet shown.
Early in 1939 the Busaco Street housing received the
go-ahead from Finsbury and the LCC and proceeded to
tender. The site was all but cleared (Ill. 545) when this and
its sister scheme at Sadler Street (page 96), allotted to
Tecton in 1938, were caught up with the stop on building
when war was declared. In May 1940 the council
attempted to restart the two estates but was rebuffed by
Government. (ref. 129) About then their fate began to be imperilled by the disputes chronicled in the introduction (page
17). Busaco Street was a site of particular contention, as
the lynchpin of the borough's social policies. It was here
that Harold Riley embarked in the summer of 1939 on the
construction of the one deep air-raid shelter attempted
(excepting the control centre in Garnault Place, page 131).
It did not go far before work was stopped.

551. Priory Green Estate, c. 2000
When the Government allowed post-war planning on
Busaco Street and Sadler Street to resume in 1943–4, it
was in a mood of wariness on the council's part. Lubetkin
now had to deal chiefly not with Riley, already crippled
politically, but with John Fishwick, the recently appointed
town clerk; and to submit to the interventionist planning
policies emanating from the LCC in the wake of the
County of London Plan (1943). The decisive new factor
at Busaco Street was density. The approved scheme came
out at 270 persons per acre, but the notional LCC figure
for the area was 136 and borough officials felt sure they
would not get away with over 200. (ref. 130)
The solution arrived at was a radical increase in size,
from upwards of three acres to approximately eight and
three-quarters (Ills 550, 551). The additional areas taken
in comprised the small area north of Grimaldi Street up
to Wynford Road, and the much larger block to the east
bounded by Collier, Cumming and Rodney Streets and
Wynford Road. There had been light war damage in this
latter area, but the council already had its eye on the northern end for further slum clearance. (ref. 131)
Lubetkin probably welcomed this increase in size as a
way of ensuring space for the social facilities he believed
necessary. Following the Housing Committee's first debate
about the enlarged site in February 1944, Tecton—in the
persons of Lubetkin and Lindsay Drake, other partners
being away on war service—came up with fresh designs
for 'New (1944) Busaco Street'. (ref. 132) Their first attempt
dropped the scale to six blocks of five-storey walk-up flats,
336 in total. In subsequent designs eight-storey ranges
returned, mainly in order to reduce the buildings' footprint. Not till the summer of 1945 did the core of the
project firm up, with two high and long north-south slabs
in parallel, as in the pre-war scheme, balanced now by four
lower walk-up blocks to their west. (ref. 133) The northern sector
of the site nearer Wynford Road remained unsettled and
was soon postponed. Nevertheless the notion of a future
block commanding the summit of the open space between
the slabs was retained. But the axis of the composition had
now shifted away from Busaco Street to just east of
Cumming Street.

552. Priory Green Estate, c. 1952. Tecton, architects, with Skinner, Bailey and Lubetkin, executant architects, 1948–52. Aerial view
looking south-west, with Grimaldi House and laundry to right; Lilley & Skinner buildings on Pentonville Road in distance
It was this scheme of 1945 for the core of the estate,
consisting of some 279 flats, that was built, attended by
copious painful cuts, revisions and delays. Not long after
F. G. Minter had won the main building contract, in June
1947, the national 'convertibility crisis' forced a moratorium on loan sanctions for housing. Over the next month,
many features on which store had been set had to be
dropped. Ultimately all the flats acquired gallery access,
and the Garchey system was replaced by common
chutes. (ref. 134) But the central laundry, a feature alluded to in
Tecton's pre-war reports but not introduced in the design
until 1944, survived. Perhaps this was because the
Finsbury Housing Committee had warmed to Quarry
Hill's communal laundry when they visited the Leeds
estate in 1945. (ref. 135)
By the time work started at Busaco Street in February
1948, Lubetkin was busy with Peterlee New Town and
weary with the pre-war housing schemes for Finsbury,
both so long in the making. In that year the Tecton practice broke up. Detailing and supervising the laborious
three-year construction of the estate's core therefore fell
to the reconstituted firm of Skinner & Lubetkin, with
Absalom Green as principal assistant. Since Arup had
limited personal interest in the housing estates, the implementation of the structural system here and at Spa Green
(Sadler Street) fell to his lieutenant and housing expert,
Peter Dunican. (ref. 136) The construction process was fraught.
'Would you kindly let me know whether it is your intention to deal with the Finsbury jobs', wrote the concrete
subcontractor and old Arup ally, Olaf Kier of J. L. Kier
& Co., to Lubetkin late in 1949, 'or whether I shall have
to accept the fact that you have no time for or no interest
in these contracts … It is really a deplorable position and is
now quite clear to me that… we shall lose some £20,000
on the two jobs'. Greater bitterness followed: 'I am very
disappointed indeed that it is not possible for you to give
any time to Busaco Street because when my firm took on
the job it was on the understanding that you would personally deal with it otherwise we would not have touched
it with a barge pole. It is one of the most lousy jobs we
have ever dealt with'. (ref. 137)

553. Priory Green Estate. Redington House,
west front facing internal court.

554. Priory Green Estate. Looking south, with Foliot House
(left), laundry (foreground) and Grimaldi House (right)

555. Priory Green Estate. Entrance from Collier Street: left to
right, Grendon, Paveley and Tornay Houses.
As completion neared, the estate acquired the incongruous name of Priory Green, after the Hospitaller priory
that had once owned the land. Individual buildings were
called after priors of the order: Kendal and Redington
Houses for the eight-storey north—south ranges; Foliot,
Tornay, Paveley and Grendon Houses for the east—west
ones (Ill. 555). The realized estate differed in aesthetics as
well as plan from the pre-war model. The outlines of the
long slabs, fifty feet shorter now, had been simplified to
cut costs, the run of projections and recessions yielding to
a bold jutting-forward of the whole centre on either side
(Ill. 553). The sweep of the balconies and the stylish if
arbitrary slope to the end walls of the stairs now played
counterpoint to an alternating, flickering pattern along the
living-room fronts. The syncopation was contrived simply
by reversing the flat layouts from one floor to the next, for
variety's sake. Critics were chary about this creeping 'patternomania', Julius Posener remarking: 'If one has to live
in these enormous unités … I, for one, prefer being a
number. I would not be a knot in the master's carpet'. (ref. 138)
According to Tecton tradition, the patterns of Priory
Green and Spa Green were arrived at by Lubetkin choosing from among many alternatives drawn out by C. L.
Franck.
The facing materials at Priory Green developed the language deployed at Spa Green. Since Lubetkin was no fan
of excessive exposed concrete, large plane surfaces were
clad in six-inch cream tiles built up into a rhythm of larger
sheets. Access galleries were faced in concrete panels,
though reported in the architectural press as being of
Portland stone. (ref. 139) Ingeniously, the ends of intermediate
walls and slabs were expressed as a grid but covered by
cast-iron gutters and downpipes, the infill between them
consisting of stack-jointed, pinkish brickwork punctuated
by windows and private balconies. For drainage purposes
the balcony fronts stop just short of the cross-walls they
abut, adding to the start-and-stop effect.
The laundry (Ill. 554) was a low circular building with
sixteen cubicles and an adjacent high chimney to the boilerhouse, set apart at LCC insistence close to Grimaldi
House as opposed to the centre of the laundry, where the
architects had wanted it. The attached boiler supplied hot
water to the flats but not central heating. A caretaker's flat
was tucked under the centre of Kendal House's west front.
The formal entrance to the estate, off Collier Street
between Kendal and Grendon Houses, enjoyed a shelter
with a coloured relief map of the project. The main artistic manifestation was an experimental series of murals in
'cement paint' by the fashionable Feliks Topolski for the
four ramped entrances of Kendal House. But as one commentator pointed out, these were 'only accepted as a gift'
and did not reflect any real commitment to provide art in
public housing projects. (ref. 140) They depicted the Middle
Ages, the Reformation, the eighteenth century (with
images of 'Grimaldi the clown' and 'Thomas Cook the
miser') and 'the present day, with Messrs. Churchill and
Attlee dominating the scene'. (ref. 141)
As tenants moved into the main estate in 1951–2, discussions about the northern sector resumed. The main
large unit, later Wynford House, had already been broken
down into an eight-storey block facing the garden and
lower flanking wings to its east and west, semi-detached
and stretching northwards. The planning of the three elements, joined by bridge links, responded skilfully to the
slope of the site. A two-storey terrace, later Calshot
House, displaced the community centre and pub earmarked for the north-west corner beyond Grimaldi
House. Again the architects had to make reductions, and
omit even the private balconies. In Wynford House the
'egg-crate' structure was simplified and internalized,
leading to flatter elevations in which the patterning
depended on a play between pre-cast concrete panels and
black-coloured concrete bricks (Ill. 556). The balcony
fronts and common staircases were also now of exposed
concrete. Wynford House was built in 1954–7; Calshot
House, finally of three storeys, was completed only in
1958. (ref. 142) The sole recognition of Wynford House's commanding role at the head of the open space is a concrete
bas-relief by Kenneth Hughes of a 'Finsbury family',
positioned on the projecting southern end of the former
community centre. (ref. 143) The landscaping of the space itself
(Ill. 557) was never carried through, nor did a nursery
school planned for its south end transpire.

556. Wynford House, Priory Green Estate, from north in 2007.
Skinner, Bailey and Lubetkin, architects, 1954–7

557. Priory Green Estate, block plan with proposed
landscaping, presentation scheme, c. 1950
The tenancy of Priory Green was never tranquil. In the
high blocks, vandalism of lifts and problems with the
open environs of the ground-floor flats were reported as
early as 1952. (ref. 144) Complaining in November 1954 of the
'alleged rapid deterioration of this Estate', the Tenants
Association urged that it be fenced in by railings, and it
was recommended that gravel paths should be replaced by
asphalt. (ref. 145) After damage to the Topolski murals next year,
due as much to their semi-exposed location as to vandalism, Finsbury's Housing Committee suggested that 'notes
and information about the murals should be published at
the Estate directing the tenants' attention to the fact that
they have a work of art in their midst'. (ref. 146) Some touching
up may have been done in 1956 by the Finsbury Art
Group.
By 1980 the estate, now under the management of
Islington Council, was in poor condition with many vacant
flats. Disillusioned tenants issued a mock-obituary notice
of 'the sad death of a once-loved friend—their housing
estate', their spokesman comparing conditions with
Colditz. (ref. 147) A long-delayed first package of improvements
took place under Peter Bell & Partners, architects, in
1981–2. Though mainly structural in nature, it comprised
central heating and the over-painting in red of the stone
balcony fronts. (ref. 148) Further refurbishment under Pollard,
Thomas & Edwards, architects, in 1987–9 included the
creation of private gardens for the ground-floor flats and
the reduction and glazing-in of the main entrances, where
tenants had 'feared to walk because of inadequate lighting
and the threat of muggers'. (ref. 149) The Topolski murals had
apparently already then been lost.

558. Hugh Cubitt House, Priory Green Estate in 2006.
JCMT Architects, 2004
In 1996 attention switched to Wynford House, swathed
in scaffolding and netting after the fall of a concrete panel.
Islington Council explored whether to redevelop or refurbish, the second option being urged by Lubetkin's biographer, John Allan. In the event it was Allan's firm, Avanti
Architects, which in partnership with the engineers
Alan Conisbee Associates and the Community Housing
Association won an open competition to recast the three
wings of Wynford House. They now came into the ownership of the CHA, to be reconfigured as 'a model of mixedtenure urban living', with privately rented units in the
central and eastern blocks supporting a minority of socialhousing units in the western one. The refurbishment
respected the architecture, structure and colours of the
original blocks, attention being paid to the renewal of concrete surfaces. The main external change was the removal
of the bridge-links between the three parts of Wynford
House, half-flight stairs being substituted. The central
block received a new porte cochère on the northern side,
and a pair of new penthouses on top of the roof, painted a
strong blue. Work ran from 1998 to May 2000, when the
refurbished blocks, renamed Priory Heights, were opened
by the local MP and Culture Secretary, Chris Smith. (ref. 150)
In September 2000 Islington Council ceded the rest of
Priory Green to the Peabody Trust, which set about a fiveyear refurbishment programme, with assistance from the
Heritage Lottery Fund. (ref. 151) Since the estate had recently
been designated a conservation area, that could be undertaken to what was termed 'a Lubetkin-friendly standard'. (ref. 152) The most visible aspect of these improvements
involved security. New fencing was installed, and a forceful central entrance building, finished in 2004, was erected
off Collier Street at the southern end of the central open
space, where the nursery school had once been planned
(Ill. 558). Called Hugh Cubitt House, it contains an estate
office, community facilities and a crèche. The upper floor
juts forward over the ample entrance on both sides. The
roofs are of copper, while the street front is clad in vibrant
blue tiles and the internal front sports strips of larch. The
designers were JCMT architects. (ref. 153)

559. Priors Estate. Internal court looking west towards
Hales Prior in 2007. Clifford Culpin & Partners, 1972–4:
pitched roofs added, 2001
Priors Estate
This housing estate (Ill. 559) occupies the northern twothirds of the grid-square bounded by Calshot, Collier and
Cumming Streets. It was built for Islington Council in
1970–4 by Gee, Walker & Slater to the designs of Clifford
Culpin & Partners, with Felix J. Samuely & Partners as
engineers. (ref. 154) Its insistent red brickwork contrasts with the
cream tiles of the Priory Green Estate on the opposite side
of Collier Street.
The development consists of two five-storey blocks,
Manneby Prior fronting on to Cumming Street and
Henley Prior fronting on to Collier Street; a four-storey
block, Hales Prior, set back from Calshot Street; and a
short terrace of monopitched houses, Nos 3–9 Cumming
Street. Altogether 113 dwellings were provided, at a
density of 420 persons per hectare. The names are derived
from priors of the Order of St John of Jerusalem, whence
also the estate's title. The four blocks face informally
inwards towards a raised court over garages, and take
advantage of the site's fall from east to west. Manneby
Prior and Henley Prior are connected by a high-level
bridge. The austere brick elevations are broken up by tiers
of recessed balconies and flush windows. The estate can
be seen as a forerunner to The Triangle, a development of
1977 by Clifford Culpin & Partners for Islington Council
on Goswell Road and Compton Street (see Survey of
London, volume xlvi).
Under estate improvements, the main blocks were
enlivened with timber-sided pitched roofs about 2001
when the management of the whole was consigned to the
Peabody Trust. (ref. 155) At the same time security fencing
blocked the original open access through the estate,
including the public pathway from Pentonville Road, off
the remaining stub of Affleck Street.
Calshot Street to Northdown Street
Calshot Street
No. 4, Keen House, an unassertive building on the east
side of the street, was purpose-built in 1958–60 for the
Model Railway Club, which is still there. The architects
were Murray, Delves, Atkins & Robert Pite, architects, and
the builders Downs Estates Ltd. Built on the site of a
wartime emergency water-tank, it is an L-shaped, concrete-framed block faced in yellow sandlime bricks, three
storeys in front with a two-storey wing. On the first floor
of the front part are a lecture room and library, while in
the rear wing are a hall and a track-demonstration room
above (Ill. 560). (ref. 156)
Nos 13–53. This low-key block of council flats was built
for Islington Borough Council in 1976–7. It is on three
storeys with steps up to the main entrances, and has carefully detailed brickwork. (ref. 157)
No. 55. This small square brick building, formerly the
schoolkeeper's house for Winton School, was perhaps
built in 1966. (ref. 158) It is used as a nursery and 'parent house'
at the time of writing.
No. 57, a neighbourhood office for Islington Borough
Council, is a low-rise, timber-framed building with a
corner entrance. It was designed by Islington Borough
Council's Architect's Department and built by the specialist contractors F. Pratten & Co. of Bath in 1984–5. A small
addition was made at the rear by the same team in 1990. (ref. 159)

560. Model Railway Club at Keen House, No. 4 Calshot
Street, in 2007

561. Winchester Street School. Charles Barry junior, architect,
1872–3. Perspective of street front. Mostly demolished
The Wintons (Nos 65–77). This five- and six-storey
apartment block of social housing (Ill. 526) was built in
2006–7 to the designs of Cartwright Pickard Architects for
Genesis Homes, an arm of the Peabody Trust, with Kier
(London) as builders. The building contains six fivebedroom maisonettes and seventeen two-bedroom flats.
The elevations are clad partly in cream tiles, in homage to
Priory Green opposite, and partly rendered in contrasting
shades of purple. (ref. 160)
Killick Street
Nothing of the original late Georgian to early Victorian
development remains in Killick Street, which was known
as Winchester Street until 1937. It was renamed in honour
of a former Surveyor to Clerkenwell Vestry and later
Finsbury Borough Council, Peter Gorringe Killick. (ref. 161)
The buildings described here exclude those north of
Caledonian Road, in what was originally Upper
Winchester Street.
No. 2 (Fulcrum House) is a ponderous five-storey office
block at the south-east corner of Killick and Collier
Streets, built in 1990 to the designs of Chapman Taylor
Partners for P & O Developments, 'in an apologetic PostModern style' with red brick and reconstituted stone
dressings. (ref. 162)
Winton Primary School. The building history of this
school has been involved. It began as one of London's earliest board schools, built in 1872–3 to the designs of
Charles Barry junior. Most of the original fabric has been
demolished or transformed beyond recognition, though
the north end of the present main front and a hipped-roof
block at the back are survivals from the early years.
The largest of the rather inchoate elements making up
the present school date from 1895–6 and 1915–16, with
various later additions.
The first elementary schools built by the School Board
for London after its formation under the Education Act
of 1870 were put out to architectural competition. By
January 1872 the board had decided to build in what was
then Winchester Street. It therefore set about buying up
the miscellaneous property interests on an enclosed site
with a frontage of only a hundred feet, halfway between
Collier Street and South (now Southern) Street on the
east side. (ref. 163) A limited competition among four architects,
one of the last held before the board appointed a permanent surveyor, was announced that June. Charles Barry
junior was awarded the job two months later; the other
competitors are not recorded. A reduced tender of £9,328
from W. Downs & Co. was accepted in November and the
school opened in October 1873. (ref. 164)

562. Winchester Street School, ground- and first-floor plans as built in 1872–3
The original Winchester Street School did not conform
to the image of later London board schools. Barry, who
had not long completed his masterpiece, the costly
Dulwich College, probably won the commission for his
ingenuity in shoehorning 1,150 school places on to the
cramped site (Ills 561–3). His strategy was to place the
infants' department on two floors facing the street
frontage, while consigning the girls' and boys' schoolrooms and classrooms to the upper floors of inward-facing
blocks behind, beneath which covered playspace served all
three departments. Somehow, Barry, contrived light from
two sides for all the girls' and boys' rooms. A 'drawingclass room' that doubled as a managers' room took an
upper-floor position at the back of the infants' block. The
rest of the space was taken up by the various services; a
high ventilating shaft rose from the narrow yard to form
a central architectural feature. The entrances for the
infants' and girls' departments were at the two ends of the
Winchester Street frontage, but the boys reached their
rooms from a passage at the back under a house in
Southampton (now Calshot) Street. The elevations were
of plain stocks, save for the front of red brick set off by
white-brick cornices and string-courses and windows of
Ransome's patent artificial stone. These front windows
conveyed a Gothic tinge absent from the rest of the
complex. The roofs throughout were hipped; the front
block was covered with tiles, the rest with slates. (ref. 165)

563. Winchester Street School, block plan showing context of
original school with additions before 1895 (hatched)

564. Winton School, Killick Street (formerly Winchester
Street School). Block at corner of Collier Street in 2006.
Below, infants' school by LCC Architect's Department,
1915–16; above, sports hall by Cartwright Pickard Architects,
2004
Tight accommodation, disputes with neighbours and
the press of children soon precipitated the school's
enlargement. Over the years it broke free of its straitjacket
until it dominated its whole urban block. The first flexings
of muscles took place towards the south in 1878–9, when
the girls' school was slightly augmented, and towards the
north in 1883, when the purchase of a former stable-yard
accessible from South Street allowed extra playground
space, a new entrance, and a schoolkeeper's house. In 1887
the house over the boys' entrance from Southampton
Street was converted into a temporary centre for deaf and
dumb children. (ref. 166) But the main enlargement came in
1895–6, when the boys' and girls' departments were
reconstructed to the designs of the School Board's architect T. J. Bailey (builder, W. M. Dobbs). (ref. 167) To this time
belongs the main frontage with its broad pedimented
gable, set back from Killick Street. The remaining portion
of Barry's boys' department at the north end of this front
is identifiable by its wider windows. The incoherence of
the whole elevation is explained by the fact that it was still
then hidden from view by the infants' department.
In 1909 the London County Council (by then in charge
of elementary education) pronounced that department
crowded, noisy and ill-lit. It therefore bought all the
ground in Winchester Street south of the school down to
the corner and return along Collier Street. All this property, including a recently built Methodist chapel, was
demolished, along with the old infants' school. Its site was
left as playground space, while in 1915–16 a new singlestorey replacement arose at the corner in the sober, widewindowed manner of the LCC Architect's Department of
those years (Ill. 564). The builders were Allen Fairhead &
Sons. (ref. 168) This change opened up the school and gave it
twentieth-century space standards, at the expense of unity.
Inter-war inspectors' reports shed light on educational
conditions here. The school was attended almost wholly by
poor children with unskilled parents inhabiting two rooms
at most. 'The overcrowding, poor feeding, late hours,
absence of open spaces causes much bad health', noted a
report on the junior school in 1928: 'It is difficult to persuade the depressed parents to have their children's eyes,
teeth etc. treated, and as a result the children are lethargic
and undisciplined'. A later report on the infants' school
was more encouraging. On pronunciation, it remarked: 'As
in almost all London schools, correct and clear speech is a
constant difficulty, despite word exercises, lapses into poor
speech occur, with the medial and finial "t" and "d"
causing even more trouble than the traditional aspirate'. (ref. 169)
Under contemporary multicultural conditions, Winton
School (the name was changed in 1938 after Winchester
Street became Killick Street) continues to combat difficulties of poverty and deprivation. The Evening Standard
described it in 1997 as a school that 'defies the odds'. (ref. 170) As
for the buildings, a facelift in 1990 after the school was
transferred to Islington was followed in 2004 by the addition of a timber-clad sports hall atop the infants' school,
with a new entrance from Killick Street (Cartwright
Pickard Architects: job architect, Claire Robertson). The
hall is framed by steel walls, cedar-clad on the outside and
plywood-lined on the inside (Ill. 564). The major elements
were assembled off-site and craned into position to minimize disruption. (ref. 171)
To the north of Winton School, a small landscaped
public space, unnamed, occupies the south side of
Southern Street up to the entrance to the Wintons.
Bonington House. These solid six-storey flats on the
west side of the street were erected for the London County
Council in 1937–8. Though the site had been within
Clerkenwell parish, because of boundary changes it lay
outside the Borough of Finsbury, which had absorbed the
old parish, when the flats were built.
Bonington House was a typical outcome of the accelerated programme of slum clearance undertaken by the
LCC after Labour took power at County Hall in 1934. In
November that year an LCC Medical Officer of Health
identified for clearance a court of housing, 'in effect, back
to back', known as North Avenue, lying behind the fronts
of the quadrilateral bounded by Northdown Street,
Caledonian Road, Collier Street and Winchester (later
Killick) Street. This together with a few extra run-down
houses in Collier and Winchester Streets amounted to just
over an acre, on which the LCC proposed initially to build
two blocks of flats. (ref. 172) In the event, when plans matured in
1936, a single six-storey block was projected, to house 50
households or 263 persons, a net loss of 121 over the
number displaced. The building tender of John Knox
(Bristol) Ltd was accepted, on the understanding that the
main materials used would all be of British or Empire
origin. Construction took place in 1937–8. (ref. 173) The name
Bonington House commemorates the painter R. P.
Bonington, buried at Pentonville Chapel, though later
reinterred at Kensal Green.

565. Nos 61–71 Collier Street (Spitfire Studios) in 2006.
Built for Everett & Co., blacking manufacturers, 1905
The L-shaped block, set back from Collier and Killick
Streets, is typical of the conservative brick neo-Georgian
flats still being designed by the LCC Architect's
Department under E. P. Wheeler at this date. Multi-storey
bays occasionally enliven the fronts, and the tall chimneys
bear witness to the open-hearth heating specified for the
flats. These varied from two to five rooms; maisonettes
occupied the top two floors, justifying the extra storey
added over the five normally then deemed the maximum
tolerable for 'walk-up' flats without lifts. The block is now
managed by the Peabody Trust, and the name Bonington
is now misspelt Bonnington on many of the signs.
Stuart Mill House. This six-storey balconied block of
flats was built by Y. J. Lovell for Finsbury Council in
1949–50 to the designs of Joseph Emberton.
The site was previously occupied by Winton Houses, a
U-shaped block of artisans' dwellings built by the East
End Dwellings Co. in 1894–5 (page 417). One of its wings
having been destroyed by a flying bomb in 1944, the
company prepared plans to rebuild and extend the block.
These were rejected by the council, which compulsorily
purchased the whole site in 1947 in order to build flatted
housing itself. (ref. 174)
Emberton's first design of 1948, for a four-storey block
incorporating a public house, was soon overtaken by the
need to build at greater density, to offset the cost of the
half-acre site. Later that year he presented two schemes to
Finsbury's Housing Committee, one for six storeys and
the other for five. To minimize building costs, he suggested a pre-cast concrete frame clad in brickwork or
concrete 'Cornish units'. Generous and well-serviced
two- and three-bedroom flats were proposed, with private
balconies. (ref. 175) Exigencies led to the need for further revi
sions with lower-rent flats in mind. In July 1949 the committee opted for the cheapest of three further six-storey
schemes, with minimum room-sizes, no pram sheds and
only one lift. The final scheme consisted of 24 balconyaccess flats, some with two bedrooms, some with three. (ref. 176)
The building was named after John Stuart Mill, born in
Rodney Street near by (page 410).

566. Nos 37–53 Northdown Street (left to right),
looking north in 1953
This was Emberton's first housing project for Finsbury,
but on a tight budget he was unable to recreate the brio of
his best pre-war work. It is concrete-framed, with hollowtile floors and sandlime brickwork. The street elevation is
dominated by the sweep of the concrete balconies, interrupted at the north end by the escape stair dropping from
fifth to fourth floor. At the south end of the block the lift
is denoted by a glazed screen over the main entrance,
which is preceded by a heavy concrete porch, now
enclosed at the sides. (ref. 177)
Collier Street, south side

567. Nos 27–53 Northdown Street. Elevations, plan of typical house, and details
Nos 61–71, now Spitfire Studios, is a rare survival in
Pentonville of an architecturally vigorous large factory
building (Ill. 565). It appears to have been built in 1905 for
Everett & Co., blacking manufacturers, whose foundation
date of 1800 and royal prerogative as suppliers of blacking to Edward VII and his heir, George V, are proudly
inscribed on the building front. (ref. 178)

568. Nos 32–46 Northdown Street (right to left) in 2006
No. 73, with Nos 24 and 26 Northdown Street, a very
plain building, is likely to date from the early 1930s,
when 'Binger (O. D.) Sales Aids Ltd., mechancl.advtsing. models' is listed here. (ref. 179) The present drab and rendered façade treatment appears to date from 1990, when
the windows on both frontages were replaced by Amos
Broome Associates, architects, for United Properties and
Investments. (ref. 180)
Northdown Street
When first developed, as North Street, this was entirely in
Clerkenwell, but under later boundary changes its whole
western side and the east side north of Collier Street were
transferred to Islington. North Street became Northdown
Street in 1906.
Of the original early Victorian development two terraces survive. That comprising Nos 27–53, something of
a surprise for this generally unaspiring area, was built in
1839 by Robert McWilliam, the retired architect and surveyor who then owned the freehold. Given its strong
architectural presence, with the pedimented and pilastered
section centred on the axis with Collier Street (rather than
falling halfway along the terrace itself), it is likely that
McWilliam himself was responsible for the design (Ills
566, 567). The houses are otherwise plain, but more than
a nodding acquaintance with the Greek Revival and maybe
a hint of Scottish neo-Classicism are conveyed by the
doorcases, which are flanked by fluted Doric columns and
have rectangular fanlights set deeply back. (ref. 181) Among those
who took leases of individual plots were the builders and
craftsmen who no doubt built the houses: Moses Burston,
stonemason (No. 37); Charles Long, window-glass cutter
(Nos 29 and 39); John Pearson, ironmonger (Nos 49 and
51) and James Gerry, builder, (No. 43). (ref. 182) No. 53 may have
been a later addition.

569. Pollard House, Northdown Street, in 2007. Davis &
Emmanuel, architects, for East End Dwellings Co., 1894–5
The second terrace, Nos 30–46, a more commonplace
affair, was built about 1845, after the sale of McWilliam's
estate. It was part of a development that also included
houses in Caledonian Road and Killick Street, together with
a court of mean dwellings at the backs of the houses in these
three streets and Collier Street. The builder or main builder
was William Dennis of Caledonian Road, on leases from the
new freeholder, Valentine Knight of Regent's Park. (ref. 183) (fn. b) The
terrace was originally called Melville Place, probably after
the politician Lord Melville (1742–1811). It has not survived entirely intact. No. 30, long demolished, was rebuilt
in similar style in 2007 (David McMaster, architect, for
Goodwater Construction Ltd), while at the same time No.
32 had been gutted and was essentially being rebuilt in
replica. (ref. 185) The three-storey houses are plain, and separated
from the ground-floor shops by a cornice with pretty eggand-dart mouldings (Ill. 568).
Between Nos 42 and 44 was formerly the entrance to
North Avenue, the court built by Dennis on the backland. This comprised 32 little houses built against the back
garden walls of houses on the streets, facing a large
courtyard with a well or pump in the middle. There
was a second, similar passageway from Killick (then
Winchester) Street. It was demolished in the 1930s for the
building of Bonington House.
The following descriptions of other buildings in
Northdown Street begin at the south end, on the east side
(even numbers).
No. 2. This small industrial building with a purple-brick
front and workshop entrance was erected in 1932–3 for the
Union Welding Co. by Mattock & Parsons, builders of
Gray's Inn Road. (ref. 186)
Pollard House (Nos 4–14), originally Pollard Houses, is
the survivor of two juxtaposed housing projects designed
for this sector of Pentonville by Davis & Emmanuel, architects, for the East End Dwellings Co., and built in 1894–5,
its counterpart to its east having been Winton Houses in
Killick Street. The builder was S. J. Jerrard. (ref. 187) For an
overview of this development see page 417. Pollard House
consists of two blocks. The higher one, of five storeys,
faces the street, with two pyramidal towers at roof level
and a lively elevation involving aprons below the windows
and red-pink passages of brickwork varied by blue courses
as well as the standard stocks (Ill. 569). The plainer block
behind, of four storeys, was badly damaged by the bomb
that destroyed a wing of Winton Houses in 1944. The
ensemble was gradually refurbished between 1959 and
1972. New windows were installed by the Peabody Trust,
the current owners, in 2000. (ref. 188)
No 16. The featureless, rendered front of this building
may conceal the oldest surviving building in Northdown
Street, formerly the Prince of Wales public house, which
existed by 1800. (ref. 189) The proprietors in 1888 were the City
of London Brewery Co., which added a skittle alley in that
year. (ref. 190) In the 1920s the building passed into industrial use,
and hence in 1978 to office use. (ref. 191)
Nos 18–22. In 2007 a five-storey office building was in
course of erection here to the designs of Squire &
Partners, architects, for the Northdown Partnership, with
Sir Robert McAlpine Ltd as contractors. (ref. 192) The front is in
the currently fashionable solid-and-void style, with the
concrete frame expressed and filled in with tall rectangular windows alternating with timber panels.
For Nos 24–26 see No. 73 Collier Street above, and for
Nos 1–9 (Marcello House) see Nos 236–240 Pentonville
Road on page 366.
Nos 11–21 is a plain four-storey industrial building which
appears to have been present on the street by 1938.
Changes to mainly office use took place in 1986. (ref. 193)
No. 25 is now a very plain three-storey block of flats with
a rendered front, built for the Community Housing Group
in about 2006. (ref. 194) There was previously a back entrance at
this address to the former King's Cross Coach Station,
entered from Omega Place off Caledonian Road, where
further such flats have been built.
Nos 55–59 is the King Charles I (sometimes Charles the
First) pub, a three-storey building apparently of the
1920s, with a front of red brick above the ground storey,
which is tiled. The carefully centralized elevation has
tightly grouped windows and a dropped centre to the
parapet, allowing the roof to show through.