14 BROUGHAM (D.b.)
(O.S. 6 in. (a)III, S.E., (b)IV, S.W., (c)VIII, N.W.)
Brougham is a parish on the S. bank of the River
Eamont, 11 m. N.W. of Appleby. The Roman
station, the church, Brougham Chapel, the castle and
the Countess' Pillar are all important monuments.
Roman
b(1). Fort (Brocavum) situated immediately S.E.
of the Castle and about 250 yards S.E. of the confluence of the Eamont and Lowther rivers. The
longer axis is N.W. to S.E.; the width is about 120 yards
and the length was about 180 yards, on the probable
assumption that the S. moat of the castle is an enlargement of the Roman N. ditch. The area would thus
have been about 4½ acres, a size which suggests a
milliary cohort-fort. The N. quarter of the fort is
practically obliterated and elsewhere the ramparts are
badly robbed. Slight traces of the bank remain, and
there are indications that it was formerly revetted
externally by a stone wall; the removal of this wall
(perhaps by the castle builders) has exaggerated the
width of the berm. A single ditch is visible. There
is no indication of internal buildings. The pottery
found by H.M. Office of Works, chiefly in clearing out
the S. moat of the castle, dates from the 2nd to the
later part of the 4th century, with a marked preponderance of the later period.
Various traces of Roman occupation, including
gravestones, have been found, but ill-recorded, on
or about a low hill about ¼ m. E. of the fort; they
point to some sort of vicus spreading along the Kirkby
Thore road. In this connection it may be noted
that the Brougham gravestones (Plate 4) show an
unusually high proportion of British personal names.
A hoard of coins ranging from Valerian to the Tetrici
was found about 100 yards N.E. of the fort-rampart in
1910.
[See C. and W. Trans., o.s., vi, 16; N.S., xxii, 140;
xxxii, 124. Inscriptions: C.I.L., vii, 295, 297, 299,
(?300), 302 (Clifton), (?303); Eph. Epig., iii, 84–7, 88
(Clifton), 89, 91; v, p. 200; viii, 953–4, 960–1
(Clifton); Journ. Rom. Studies, xxii, 223. Finds: Pottery, C. and W. Trans. N.S., xxxii, 134; Coins: C. and
W. Trans. N.S., xi, 209.]
Condition—Fairly good.
Ecclesiastical
b(2). Parish Church of St. Ninian (Plate 10),
formerly called Ninekirks, stands on the E. bank of the
Eamont on the N. side of the parish. The walls are of
sandstone rubble, with dressings of the same material;
the roofs are slate-covered. From the diary of
Lady Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke, it is clear
that she pulled down and entirely re-built and enlarged
the Church in 1660. It has been repaired in modern
times and the South Porch was added in 1841; the
bell-cote is also modern.
The church and its fittings (Plate 82) are interesting
examples of 17th-century work.
Architectural Description—The Chancel (25¼ ft.
by 21 ft.) is structurally undivided from the nave and
occupies the three easternmost bays of the building.
In the E. wall are two windows each of one segmental-headed light in a square head with a moulded label;
on the E. gable, internally, is a wreath in plaster
enclosing the initials and date A.P. 1660 (for Anne
Countess of Pembroke). The N. and S. walls have
each a similar window; W. of the S. window is a
doorway with double-chamfered jambs, segmental
head and moulded label.
Brougham Castle, Roman & Mediaeval Earthworks
The Nave (46½ ft. by 25 ft.) has three windows in
the N. wall and four in the S. all similar to those in
the chancel; the S. doorway has double-chamfered
jambs and elliptical head. In the W. wall are two
windows similar to those in the E. wall. The
buttresses of the church are of two stages with a
moulded base.
The Roof is of nine bays with collar-beam trusses
having curved braces below and short king-posts
above the collar-beams.
Fittings—Bell: one, inscribed "Ninekirkes 1696."
Chest: In nave—plain, of hutch-type, with iron
straps and bands, two staples remaining, mediæval.
Churchyard Cross: S. of church—square base with
moulded top, mediæval, shaft and head modern.
Coffin lids: In nave—(1) slab with ornamental cross
and sword, 13th-century. In churchyard—S.E. of
church, (2) slab with traces of cross and sword; S.E.
of porch, (3) slab with foliated cross, sword and indent
of shield, both 13th-century. Communion Rails:
with heavy turned balusters, moulded rails and square
posts, c. 1660. Font: octagonal bowl with splayed
under side and the date 1662 on one face, slender shaft
on modern base. Monument and Floor-slabs. Monument: In churchyard—S. of chancel, to William
Dobson, 1712–3, headstone. Floor-slab: In chancel
—re-set fragments to [Cuthbert] Bradley, incumbent,
[1624]. Panelling: In chancel—covering S. doorway,
made up screen, with central door of enriched
panels, carved and arcaded panels at sides flanked by
standing figures supporting continuous cornice;
above cornice, panelled top stage with four terminal
figures, late 16th or early 17th-century materials re-used.
Plate: includes an Elizabethan cup, without datemark. Poor Box: In nave—box with moulded lower
edge and inscription "Remember the poor," square
post with the date 1663. Pulpit: seven-sided with
panelled faces, brackets at angles supporting bookrest, one side carried up as standard to support sounding-board; sounding-board with embattled cresting
and turned pendants at the angles, c. 1660. Screen:
Between chancel and nave—of oak with central doorway and eight bays on each side, side bays with turned
balusters and shaped and pierced heads of Gothic
form, close boarding below in two main bays on
each side; opening formerly fitted with doors but now
retaining only the heads of these, fixed in position and
similar to the heads of the side bays, c. 1660, cornice
modern. Seating: In nave—nine pews on N. and
seven on S. side, all with panelled enclosures and some
modern work; two blocks on N. comprising the
first two and the fourth to the sixth pews, carried up
to height of screen with turned balusters, deep panelled
frieze and cornice, doors, each with two open upper
panels divided by a baluster; one pew on the S. side
with the initials and date I.B. 1661; book-rests modern.
Miscellanea: In nave—in glass case, skull and remains
of prick-spur, etc., from under coffin-lid (1). Incorporated in E. wall of chancel, fragment of 12th-century
moulded stone; over head of S. doorway grotesque
head-corbel. In churchyard—S.E. of church, Roman
altar (?) of sandstone (14¾ in. by 6 in.) with concave
sides, uninscribed.
Brougham - Parish Church of St. Ninian
Condition—Good.
a(3). Chapel of St. Wilfrid (Plate 10) stands on
the W. border of the parish. The walls are of coursed
sandstone rubble with dressings of the same material;
the roofs are slate-covered. The chapel consisting of
continuous Chancel and Nave was entirely re-built by
Lady Anne Clifford in the spring of 1658. It was
thoroughly restored c. 1840–50 by Lord Brougham and
Vaux when the windows were altered and the interior
fitted with woodwork collected from various sources.
The chapel is of interest as a complete mid 17th-century building and some of the imported fittings
are noteworthy.
Architectural Description—The Chancel and Nave
(65 ft. by 23¾ ft.), without structural division, have
low-pitched gables and two-stage buttresses. In the
E. wall are two windows each of one pointed light
(round-headed internally) in a square head with a
moulded label; the internal shafts and rear-arch are
modern; in the gable is a modern window. In the
N. wall are six windows of which the first five are
similar to the lower windows above described, except
that the fifth has plain splays; the sixth window is
modern. In the S. wall are five windows uniform
with the first five windows in the N. wall; the chancel
doorway, now blocked, has double hollow-chamfered
jambs and ogee arch under a square moulded label;
the S. doorway has moulded jambs and segmental-pointed arch under a square moulded label. In the
W. wall are two windows similar to the fifth windows
in the side walls. On the W. gable is a bell-cote with
two square-headed openings, cornice and pediment.
The Roof is of nine bays with collar-beam trusses
with curved braces under the collars; it is now ceiled
with elaborate 19th-century heraldic plaster-work.
Fittings—Font: octagonal bowl with moulded rim
and curved underside, octagonal stem and moulded
base, probably 17th-century with 19th-century enrichments to bowl and stem. Glass: In E. windows—
foiled panels of the Virgin and Child and the Crucifixion, with the figure draped, and quarries with vine
and oak-leaf ornament; foliage quarries also in window
in gable, 14th-century, Virgin and Child, 16th-century,
all foreign. Locker: In chancel—in N. wall, with
imported carved panel of the Resurrection on door,
c. 1500. Organ Case: In three sections against W.
wall—modern but incorporating imported old material,
including enriched posts, traceried panels, carved
panels of the Entry into Jerusalem, the Virgin and
Child and the Crucifixion, moulded and cusped arches
with a carved panel at the top, foreign and mostly
c. 1500. Panelling: On E. wall—dado incorporating
imported traceried panels, foreign and c. 1500. Forming a partition across W. end of church—imported
carved panels of the early life of Christ, David and
Goliath, Cain and Abel, etc., all 16th-century; on
adjoining side-walls, frieze of 17th-century panels
carved with cherub-heads and swags. Incorporated
in stalls various imported French panels probably of
the 16th century, with tracery, heraldry, the initials
M.A., etc. In nave—on N. and S. walls, dado
incorporating similar panels also with the initials
M.A., fleurs-de-lis, etc. Pulpit: modern but incorporating much old work, including geometrical panels,
imported figure-subjects of the Virgin and Child, the
Assumption, a Pieta and probably God the Father, 16th-century and later. Plate: Includes a secular cup (Plate
54) with repousse lobe decoration, given by James Bird
(steward of Lady Anne Clifford), 17th-century Nuremberg work, also a 17th-century German paten. Reredos:
Against E. wall—imported triptych in separate leaves
of carved and painted woodwork with traceried and
enriched setting; middle panel with the Crucifixion
with a subject below; N. leaf with the Bearing of the
Cross, the Presentation and the Circumcision; S. leaf
with the Descent from the Cross, the Baptism and the
Entombment, all Flemish or German and c. 1500;
below side leaves, four trefoil-headed panels with
figures of St. George, a hermit, St. John the Baptist
and St. John the Evangelist, 14th-century. On W.
side of main screen—reredos with four imported panels
of St. George, St. Martin, the Adoration of the Magi
and probably St. Anne and the Virgin, Flemish or
German, c. 1500. Scratchings: On stonework—
various masons' marks, 17th-century. Screen: Across
nave—imported screen with a series of enriched
circular posts supporting cinque-foiled arches, moulded
and enriched cornice, probably French, c. 1500.
Brougham - Chapel of St. Wilfrid
Condition—Good.
Secular
b(4). Brougham Castle (Plate 85), ruins and earthworks, stands on the S. bank of the river Eamont. The
walls are mainly of red sandstone with dressings of
the same material. Under Henry II the property was
granted to Gospatrick son of Orm and under John it
passed to the family of Vipont; the marriage of the
Vipont heiress to Roger de Clifford (died 1282) brought
the property to that house and with them it remained
until the extinction of the family by the death of Lady
Anne Clifford in 1676. It passed from her through the
Earls of Thanet to the present owner, Lord Hothfield,
who placed the castle under the guardianship of H.M.
Office of Works in 1928.
Brougham Castle
The earliest part of the existing building is the square
Keep (later known as the Pagan Tower) which was
built c. 1170–80; it was entered by a forebuilding
on the E. face, but there is no evidence of what else
the castle consisted at this date. Early in the 13th
century a rectangular building was erected, axially
with and to the E. of the keep; the form and position
of this building suggest that it was originally a chapel,
but it was subsequently raised to at least three storeys
as is indicated by the structure of the adjoining buildings, though the supposed chapel itself has been largely
destroyed; the apartment on the second floor of this
building was later the Great Chamber. Rather later
in the 13th century much of the curtain-wall seems to
have been built and with it a block of buildings on the
E. side probably containing the hall (on the first floor)
and the offices. In the same century a vault was
inserted in the ground floor of the keep and other
alterations made at a higher level. Late in the 13th
century the western block of building against the S.
curtain was built and the top stage added to the keep;
at much the same time, c. 1290–1300, the Inner Gatehouse and the S.W. Tower (later called the Tower of
League) were built, and c. 1300 the Outer Gatehouse was
built, and c. 1330 the top storey was added and the
narrow building erected between it and the inner
gatehouse. Roger, 5th Lord Clifford (d. 1388), is said
to have built the greater part of the castle towards the
E., and to him must be assigned the reconstruction
of the Great Hall with its porch; shortly after, the
Chapel block was inserted against the S. curtain and
between two earlier blocks; perhaps at this time the
earlier chapel was heightened and transformed into
the great chamber. At the same period a corridor
was built connecting the keep with the porch of the
hall. An inscription, now placed on the outer gate
house, probably refers to the 5th Lord Clifford. Much
repair is said to have been done on the castle by
Henry, 2nd Earl of Cumberland (d. 1569–70), but
little work of this date can be identified. The castle
suffered much in the Civil War and was lying "ruinous
and desolated" in 1651 when the Lady Anne Clifford,
Countess of Pembroke, began the repair of the building; her work, mainly undertaken in 1651–2, consisted largely of reroofing and reconditioning the
existing buildings, but she pulled down the old bakehouse and brewhouse adjoining the Tower of League
and re-built them; her buildings may be represented
by the northern foundations against the W. curtain
and now turfed over. The particulars of her visits
recorded in her diary and elsewhere permit the
identification of the chief rooms in the castle in her day.
The Great Hall on the first floor gave access upstairs
to the Great Chamber, the Painted Chamber, the
Passage Room and her own chamber in succession,
the last immediately adjoining the middle room of
the Pagan Tower (or Keep). This succession is only
possible on the second or top floor of the gatehouse
blocks, and the Lady Anne's own chamber, in which
she died, must thus have been in the third storey of
the inner gatehouse. The castle was abandoned and
its demolition begun by Thomas Tufton, 6th Earl
of Thanet, in 1691; stone, lead and timber from it
were sold in 1714; since then the remains have
gradually deteriorated until their complete repair was
undertaken by H.M. Office of Works.
Brougham Castle the Keep & Gateways
The remains of Brougham Castle form the most
extensive and important survival of military architecture
in the county. The 12th-century keep is still largely
complete, as are the two gatehouses, the three together
forming a remarkable example of defensive planning.
The Keep (Plate 87) or Pagan Tower (about 45 ft.
square without the buttresses) is of four stages, the
three lower storeys being of c. 1170–80 and the top
part an addition of the end of the 13th century. The
walls are of coursed rubble with ashlar dressings and
the angles have clasping buttresses, not however projecting on the E. face. The ground storey formerly had
an inserted 13th-century stone vault in four bays with
chamfered ribs; it sprang from moulded corbels
and a central column and was intact late in the 18th
century (Grose); the angle-corbels and springers still
remain but the original loop-lights in the N., S. and
W. walls have been reopened and the blocking supporting the vault removed; the loops have lost their
rear-arches; in the N.W. angle is a garde-robe, in
the N.E. angle a turret-staircase and in the E. wall
are remains of a former entrance; the opening may
originally have communicated with the space under
the forebuilding, but has been subsequently cut through
to the building on the E. The forebuilding is now
much ruined, but originally contained a flight of steps
leading up to the main entrance on the first floor
and entered by a doorway on the S.; this was superseded by the 13th-century entrance on the E. The
second storey has, in the E. wall, one jamb and half
the arch of the original entrance; it is of c. 1180 and
had shafted jambs with moulded capitals and bases
and a round arch of two moulded orders; the jambshaft is missing; much of the E. wall-face has gone
at this level. The internal faces have remains of an
added late 13th-century wall-arcade with two-centred
arches resting on shafts with moulded bases and carved
capitals, of which two only survive. In the S. wall
is a gap representing a former fireplace and a square-headed window. The N. and W. walls have each an
original round-headed window with moulded angles
to the splays; the N. window is partly destroyed; the
external face of each is in two orders, the outer order
of the arch being rounded and resting on attached
shafts cut on the order in the 13th century. There
is a garde-robe in the N.W. angle and two small chambers flanking the N. window. The third storey has,
in the N. and W. fronts, an original window altered
in the 13th century and similar to those in the stage
below. In the E. wall is an original round-headed
window of two chamfered orders; farther N. is a
later doorway cut through the wall, and in the slabroof of the adjoining passage is an inscribed Roman
tombstone. A gap in the S. wall shows the flue of the
fireplace below, and there is a garde-robe in the N.W.
angle. The late 13th-century top storey is differentiated
from the earlier work by the colour of the quoins;
there are some remains of the machicolation-corbels,
but the parapets have gone; the turret on the S.E.
oversails towards the E. and S. on corbelling and two
carved head-corbels. The room in this stage is of
octagonal form, the short sides being carried on corbelling; it is surrounded by a slab-roofed wall-passage
interrupted on the E. side to form a small chamber;
the passage is lit by loop-lights and there are larger
square-headed windows in all the walls. In the N.W.
angle is a fireplace with chamfered jambs and a flat
arch with joggled voussoirs. In the S. wall are
remains of a doorway into the wall-passage; it had a
two-centred arch of two moulded orders, the inner
continuous and the outer springing from attached
shafts with moulded capitals and bases; the E. side
only remains; other doorways have shouldered segmental arches with a flat cusp at the springing. In the
S.E. angle is a semi-octagonal chapel or oratory (Plate
88) covered with a ribbed vault in seven cells, with
a central boss carved with two heads; the ribs are
chamfered and two of them spring from shafts with
a moulded and a head-corbel; two others stop on to
a defaced head and a rosette respectively; the entrance
(Plate 89) from the S. wall-passage had a cusped arch
and there is an inner cusped and higher arch; in the
S. wall are two recesses with moulded reveals, one
having a pointed and one a trefoiled head; there are
two more recesses with trefoiled heads on the N. side
of the entrance. The E. window was formerly of two
trefoiled lights with a trefoil in a two-centred head,
but the mullion is missing; the N. splay has remains of
two carved figures; in the N.E. wall is a locker with
moulded jambs and square chamfered head; in the
S.E. wall is a piscina formerly having shafted jambs
and an ogee head in a segmental-pointed arch; the
drain was octofoiled. On the jamb of the N.W. doorway of the oratory are remains of small carved figures,
probably of the 16th century. The chamber N. of
the oratory has a locker with rebated reveals in the N.
wall.
The Great Chamber Building (54 ft. by 23 ft.), E. of
the keep, was built early in the 13th century, but was
probably raised at a later date to the full height of the
outer gatehouse, the wall of which butted against it.
Very little of the building is now standing, but it had
clasping buttresses to the E. wall; the S.E. buttress
remains to some height and in the E. wall adjoining it
are remains of a window-jamb with a dog-tooth
ornament carved on one jamb-stone. In the N. wall
is part of an original loop-light at a lower level.
The Outer Gatehouse (Plate 86) is of three storeys,
faced on the E. and N. with rough ashlar; the two
lower storeys are of c. 1300, and the top storey is
probably an early 14th-century addition. The outer
gateway is of two chamfered orders with a portcullis-groove between; the outer arch is segmental
and the inner of segmental-pointed form. Above
the arch is a patch in the wall in which is re-set
a panel with the inscription in black-letter "thys
made Roger"; it probably replaces an inscription-panel of Lady Anne Clifford, now at Appleby
Castle. This inscription reads "Brougham Castle
was repaired by the Ladie Anne Clifford Countesse
Dowager of Pembroke Dorsett and Montgomery,
Baronesse Clifford, Westmerland and Veseie, Lady
of the Honour of Skipton in Craven and High
Sheriffesse by inheritance of the countie of Westmerland, in the yeares 1651 and 1652 after it had layen
ruinous ever since about August 1617 when King
James lay in it for a time in his journie out of Skotland
and towards London until this time. Isa. Chap. 58
Verse 12. God's name be praised." The inner
gateway has jambs and segmental-pointed arch of one
chamfered order. The gate-hall is covered with a
segmental-pointed vault of ashlar and the doorway in
the N. wall has a shouldered head. The guardroom
on the N. has a segmental vault of ashlar springing
from the end walls; it is lit by loops and a square-headed window; in the N. wall is a fireplace with a
flat lintel and in the N.E. angle is a garde-robe. Below
this chamber is a cellar or dungeon, lit by a loop and
approached by an opening in the floor above; the
roof is a pointed vault of ashlar. The room on the S.
of the gate-hall was formerly roofed with a segmental-pointed vault with square ribs; only the springers
now remain. In the E. wall is a garde-robe and a
loop-light which appears to be of two dates, the inner
part being an insertion between the ribs of the vault.
The first floor appears to have formed one room
and has a series of recesses in the E. wall; two of these
form window-recesses with seats; the windows were
each of two trefoiled and transomed lights with a
quatrefoil in a two-centred head; the mullions are
missing; the middle recess served to work the portcullis. In the N. wall is a square-headed window
and in the W. wall is a passage to the room on the W.
and a fireplace probably of the 17th century. The S.
wall, like most of that on the floor below, has been
destroyed. The second floor also forms one large
room (called the Painted Chamber in the 17th century)
and has two 14th-century windows in the E. wall,
with seats; they were each of two trefoiled and
transomed lights with a flowing quatrefoil in a two-centred head, but the mullions are largely missing.
In the middle of the wall-face at the top, are three
heavily projecting machicolation-corbels. In the
N. wall is a wall-passage leading to a staircase to the
roof and a garde-robe; the window in the middle was
probably similar to those in the E. wall. In the W.
wall is a fireplace with a broken segmental head.
Between the two gatehouses is a small courtyard with
a narrow four-storeyed building on the N. side. This
building is probably of the 14th century and contemporary with the upper part of the outer gatehouse.
The windows are of the small square-headed type or
loops. The doorway on the ground floor has a
shouldered head and there is a fireplace on the first
floor with a corbelled hood.
The Inner Gatehouse (Plate 87) is of three storeys,
faced with rough ashlar and was built c. 1290–1300. The
outer archway has jambs and segmental-pointed arch of
two chamfered orders separated by a portcullis-groove.
The inner archway has chamfered jambs, a segmental-pointed inner order to the arch and a segmental outer
order; the rear-arch is shouldered and segmental-pointed. The gate-hall (Plate 89) has a quadripartite
vault of two bays with chamfered cross and diagonal
ribs. In the S.W. angle is a small chamber and in the
N. wall a corridor ending in the N.E. angle; both are
slab-roofed. The first floor has a wall-passage in the
N., W. and S. walls, communicating with the keep
and with two chambers or garde-robes in the N. angles
and interrupted by the stair-turret; the S. and W.
corridors are lit by square-headed windows or loops.
In the middle of the N. wall is a window formerly of
two trefoiled lights with a piercing in a two-centred
head; the mullion is missing. In the N.W. angle
are remains of a fireplace. The second floor formed
the Lady Anne's chamber and communicates with the
third storey of the keep, It has a passage in the W. wall
with a garde-robe at the N. end, and there was probably
a staircase in the N.E. angle, now fallen. A later
cutting communicates with the passage-building on
the N.E. In the E. wall is a window of two trefoiled
and transomed lights with a quatre-foiled in a two-centred head; there are remains of a similar window
in the N. wall and across the N.W. angle is a fireplace
with a shouldered head, partly fallen.
The Great Hall occupied the first floor of the E.
range of the castle. The wall on the E. is of the 13th
century altered late in the 14th, but the W. wall is
probably all of the 14th century; it has been destroyed
except for about 3½ ft. above the ground. It contains
remains of a doorway, fireplace and window. The
E. wall of the ground floor has no features except a
gap representing a late doorway. In the middle of
the building is a square foundation perhaps for the
hearth of the hall above. The hall itself (41 ft.
average by 21½ ft.) retains only its E. wall heightened
in the 14th century. In it there are three original
13th-century loop-lights, one partly open and two
blocked; there are also two 14th-century windows
each of two trefoiled lights in a square head; one
window has lost its mullion; between the windows is a
gap representing a later fireplace. In the remaining
fragment of the N. wall is one moulded jamb of a
15th-century doorway with a pointed arch in a square
head and a moulded label. The hall was approached
by a flight of steps in a porch on the W. side; the porch
is only standing in its lower part but retains the
moulded jambs of its outer doorway. The room in
the S.E. angle of the castle probably contained the
kitchen on the first floor. The outer walls are probably partly of the 13th century heightened in the
14th century, but the angle seems to have been partly
reconstructed. The room on the ground floor
retains its stone pavement and remains of a later
staircase against the E. wall. There are square-headed or loop-lights in the S. and W. walls. The
room was formerly covered with a 14th-century
ribbed barrel-vault springing from the N. and S. walls.
The kitchen, on the first floor, has a window-opening
in the W. wall, once of two lights. In the E. wall is a
two-light square-headed window probably of the 17th
century and also a small 14th-century window. In
the S. wall is a similar window and remains of a large
fireplace. There was a third storey to this building,
probably an alteration of the 17th century. To the
W. of it is a small open court with a late opening cut
through the curtain-wall at the S. end and a well at
the N. end.
The Chapel Block is a late 14th-century insertion
between the earlier building on the W., the small
courtyard and the earlier curtain. It is of two storeys,
with the chapel on the first floor. The ground-floor
room has two 17th-century square-headed openings
in the curtain and other small original windows in the
E. and N. walls. The N. doorway has chamfered
jambs and two-centred head and the E. doorway a
square head. In the N. wall are remains of a 17th-century fireplace. Against the N. wall outside are
remains of the staircase to the chapel which landed in a
porch on the top of a small square chamber with a
slab-roof. In the N.E. angle of the main building is a
skewed passage giving access to the small courtyard
mentioned above. The chapel itself (39 ft. by 20 ft.)
has a large E. window with moulded jambs and
destroyed head; the mullions and tracery also have
been destroyed. The N. wall has been largely
destroyed except on the W. side of the porch; this
fragment has remains of a staircase leading from the
chapel to a room over the porch. In the heightened
curtain-wall on the S. side are two late 14th-century
windows each of one trefoiled light. The sedilia (Plate
89) in the same wall are in three bays with moulded
jambs and divisions and trefoiled arches in a square
head with foiled spandrels; the piscina, farther E., has
a foiled arch in a pointed head. The corbels of the
former roof remain at a higher level. The adjoining
building on the W. is perhaps of late 13th or early
14th-century date, but has been repaired in the 17th
century. It was probably of three storeys, but only
the E. wall remains to its full height, the other walls
not standing anywhere above the first-floor level.
The walls towards the courtyard have a moulded plinth
and are ashlar-faced; the plinth is returned along the
E. wall also. In the N. wall is the base of an original
doorway with moulded jambs; the small annexe on
this wall is reduced to foundations. In the E. wall
are remains of a doorway with a garde-robe opening
off its S. splay. The upper part of the E. wall has a
14th-century doorway, at the first-floor level, communicating with the chapel and a second communicating with a garde-robe. Above these doorways
are the marks of a later and probably 17th-century
roof. The S. or curtain-wall is probably of the 13th
century, as is its continuation as far as the S.W. tower.
Between the keep and the porch of the great hall
are the bases of the walls of a corridor of late 14th-century date; the doorway W. of the porch has
moulded jambs and the adjoining doorway in the
cross-wall has chamfered jambs.
The S.W. Tower (called the Tower of League (Plate
89) in the 17th century) was built late in the 13th
century and is of four storeys, but the S.E. angle has
fallen and some of the facing has been removed. The
ground floor has cruciform loops and an original fireplace with a shouldered head and joggled voussoirs. In
the N. wall is a staircase to the floor above, and an
extension of the tower on the E. side contains a garderobe approached by a passage. The first-floor room has
a pointed window in the W. wall and a fireplace, the
head of which has been destroyed; the staircase from
this level becomes spiral and is connected by a wall-passage with a garde-robe in the E. extension. The
second-floor room has a pointed window in the W.
wall and remains of a fireplace in the S. wall; there is
a garde-robe in the N.W. angle and the N. wall-passage
communicates with the parapet-walk of the W. curtain.
The top-floor room has remains of a corbelled fireplace,
a square-headed window on the W. and remains of
another in the E. wall. The W. curtain-wall for
about 30 ft. N. of the tower was probably built with
the tower; it retains a small part of the parapet; cut
through the wall is a 17th-century or later doorway;
farther N. the wall is probably of the 13th century
and has lost its internal facing. The whole of the
N.W. angle is modern, but the surviving portion
adjoining the inner gatehouse is of the same date
as that feature. A range of buildings formerly stood
against the W. curtain, the foundations of which are
shown on the plan; only the foundations at the S.
end, including traces of an oven, are now exposed;
these presumably were the bake and brew-houses
destroyed by the Lady Anne Clifford. To the W.
of the chapel-range is a large well 5½ ft. in diameter.
Outside the main enclosure of the castle there is a
massive foundation extending E. from the Great
Chamber block, and there is also a retaining wall on
the outside of the approach to the outer gatehouse.
The Moat extends along the whole of the S. side
and returns along part of the E. and W. sides. It is
about 56 ft. wide on the S. and E. sides, but narrower
on the W. There are causeways, probably of late date,
approaching the two late doorways on the S. and W.
faces, and remains of two walls carried across on the
S. face and at the S.W. angle.
Condition—Good, in charge of H.M. Office of
Works.
b(5). The Countess' Pillar (Plate 64) stands on
the S. side of the main road about 1,000 yards E. of
the castle. It was erected in 1656 to commemorate
the last parting between Lady Anne Clifford and
her mother. It stands about 14 ft. high and consists of an octagonal shaft with a chamfered base
and moulded capping; above this is a square block
with a cornice, pyramidal capping and finial. The
square block has, on the N. face, two carved and
painted shields-of-arms, (a) Clifford impaling Vipont,
and (b) Clifford impaling Russell, a skull and the date
1654. The other three faces have painted sundials
with metal gnomons and on the S. face also is a brass
tablet inscribed, "This pillar was erected Anno 1656
by ye Hon'ble Anne Countess Dowager of Pembroke
and daughter and sole heire of ye Rt. Hono'ble George
Earl of Cumberland and for a memorial of her last
parting in this place with her good and pious mother
ye Rt. Hono'ble Margaret Countes Dowager of
Cumberland ye 3rd of April 1616. In memory
whereof she also left an annuity of four pounds to be
distributed to ye poor within this Parish of Brougham
every 2nd day of April for ever upon ye stone table
here hard by." The stone table referred to is a flat
slab about 3 yards to the E. of the pillar.
Condition—Good.
b(6). Hornby Hall, now three tenements, 1,050
yards E. of the church, is of two storeys; the walls
are of rubble and the roofs are slate-covered. It was
built probably about the middle of the 16th century by
Edward Birkbeck; the porch was built c. 1584 and
alterations were made early in the 17th century. The
house has a modern extension on the W. The S.
front retains, on the ground floor, two original windows
of three and four four-centred lights respectively, in
square heads with moulded labels; the transomed
windows on the first floor have modern heads. There
are remains of other original windows. The three-storeyed porch (Plate 21) is gabled and has an outer
archway with moulded jambs and four-centred arch in a
square head with blank shields in the spandrels; above it
is a panel with a moulded label, a defaced achievement-of-arms and two smaller shields-of-arms. The inner
doorway has a four-centred head and is fitted with a
battened door with moulded ribs planted on. The
first floor has a 16th-century window of two four-centred lights in a square head with a moulded label;
the top floor has a similar window of one light. The
N. wall has an original four-light window, similar
to that on the S. front, and on the floor above is a three-light window. There is an original window in the
E. end now under the archway of the later farm buildings. Inside the building, the hall occupies the
middle of the range with the kitchen to the E. The
hall has a ceiling divided by beams into three bays;
the middle bay retains one panel of enriched plasterwork with moulded ribs forming a geometrical design
and pendant in the middle. The fireplace has original
moulded jambs and segmental head; the doorway,
S. of it, has original moulded jambs, square head and
label. In the W. wall is a doorway with moulded
reveals embattled enrichment on the lintel and an
elaborate enriched label; on the lintel (Plate 30) are
the initials and date T.I.B. 1602. The entrance-lobby
has a doorway with a triangular arch in a square head
and E. of the lobby is a spiral staircase. The kitchen
has a fireplace with a segmental head. The room, W.
of the hall, has a re-set early 17th-century overmantel of
three bays with enriched arcaded panels and a range
of frieze-panels above with intersecting arches; the
main middle panel has an achievement-of-arms of
Birkbeck. The room on the first floor of the porch
has or had a ceiling with the date 1584. The main room
on the first floor was lined with panelling and has a
carved mantelpiece and an enriched ceiling.
Condition—Good.
a(7). Brougham Hall, immediately S. of (3), was
largely re-built in the first half of the last century by
Lord Brougham. This house was demolished in
1934, but adjoining the road on the N. of the site is a
two-storeyed range of rubble outbuildings, probably
of 17th-century origin. The adjoining gateway has
an elliptical head and is fitted with a panelled and nail-studded door with a wicket. Inside the building, one
room has a segmental barrel-vault and on the upper
floor is some early 17th-century panelling. The E.
end of the stables incorporates seven Roman inscribed
stones (Plate 4).
Condition—Fairly good.
b(8). Hospital Farm, house, 750 yards E.S.E. of
(3), is of two storeys with attics. The walls are of
rubble and the roofs are slate-covered. It was built
late in the 16th or early in the 17th century, but the
N.W. end may be of earlier origin. The house has a
central block and side wings and retains some original
stone-mullioned windows with moulded labels. Inside
the building are some 17th-century panelled doors
and a fireplace with a triangular arch in a square head.
Condition—Good.
Unclassified
c(9). Remains of Barrow, on the S. side of Leacet
Plantation, 2¼ m. S. of the church, now consists only
of seven stones forming part of a circle and of which
the most westerly only just shows above the turf.
The highest is standing 4 ft. above the ground level
and the diameter of the circle is about 37 ft. It was
excavated in 1880 (Cumb. and West. Trans., O.S. v,
p. 76) when three additional stones were found N.
of the plantation-wall. In the middle at a depth of
about 3 feet were remains of a burnt burial. A small
inner circle of stones, possibly accidental, was also
found, and at the foot of four of the stones of the main
circle were burial urns ("five cinerary urns, one foodvessel and one incense cup") of the Bronze age.
Condition—Poor.