THE CENTRAL AREA FROM c. 1600.
By the end of the 16th century a relatively accurate picture
of the centre of Warwick may be reconstructed by
means of a survey of the properties of the late Earl
of Warwick made in 1590, (fn. 66) and Speed's plan of the
town, drawn c. 1610. (fn. 67) Within the line of the medieval
walls, and particularly along the lines of Leland's
'Quadrivium' (fn. 68) - High Street, Jury Street, Castle
Street, Church Street, and its extension, Northgate
Street, - the houses seem to have been built fairly
close together. Within the segments formed by these
axes less regularity is apparent. The survey indicates
a distinction between two kinds of property within
the town held of the castle. Most tenancies were
freehold at low rents irrespective of their position.
A small number, however, were copyhold at much
higher rents, and most of these were concentrated in
High Street. John Weale, senior, had a tenement and
garden there, together with a croft by St. Lawrence's
Way, and meadow in Lea Meadow at a combined
rent of £1 13s. 4d. (fn. 69) Most of the properties in the
survey were described simply as burgages or tenements, but a few were shops, including one formerly
belonging to the Guild of Warwick in High Market,
described as a shop or workshop 'now called a
parlour'. (fn. 70)
Outside the line of the medieval walls the houses
were much less closely built and were interspersed
with barns, gardens, and crofts. In Hoggesford,
Saltisford and Wallditch stood a large number of
barns; cottages and crofts were to be found in Friar
Lane, and gardens in Linen Hill. In West Street
were a number of vacant plots, and in Brittain Lane
at least four barns and ten gardens. On the other
side of the town the pattern was similar, cottages in
Coten End having small attached closes. This 'open'
settlement around the town is indicated in Hollar's
plan of 1654. (fn. 71) Particularly noticeable are the gardens
between West Gate and the river to the south-west
of the castle, later to become part of the castle
grounds, (fn. 72) and large open spaces to the north-east
of the castle. The complex of lanes to the south of
High Street and around the Market Place is also
evident. Contemporary prospects of the town (fn. 73)
indicate its well-wooded surroundings.
The increasing importance of Warwick in the 17th
century as a shire town (fn. 74) is reflected not only in the
popularity of large inns but also in the appearance
of town houses for more permanent residence and
extensive conversion of existing properties. Already
the Priory, a residential property on a much larger
scale, stood to the north of the town. (fn. 75) A smaller
town house stood opposite St. Nicholas's Church,
on the spot where now stands the entrance to the
castle. (fn. 76) This was the residence successively of the
Bromes, the Boltons, and Dr. Hadow. A stone
building of five bays, it had two stories and an attic.
The central door was approached by semi-circular
steps, and windows formerly 'of the time of Elizabeth' (fn. 77) were later replaced. The house was demolished in 1800.
One distinctive feature of this house was the ogeeheaded attic gables above the three central bays.
Gables of this shape became extremely popular in
Warwick and persisted until fairly late in the 17th
century. The principal range at the Priory (probably
remodelled c. 1620), Marble Yard (before 1650) and
St. John's (partly rebuilt c. 1666) all display variations on the design of these gables. (fn. 78) They were also
to be found on two other houses, subsequently
demolished, Joyce Pool House and Jury Street
House. The former was built in 1633-4 and stood
facing down Joyce Pool overlooking Wallditch, on a
site later occupied by the Bridewell. It was a stone
house of three stories and attics, five bays long and
two bays wide. On the front elevation there was a
central projecting porch with a two-storied oriel
window above a four-centred arch. The end bays
had projecting bay windows rising through all three
stories and surmounted by carved strapwork
parapets, another favourite feature of 17th-century
stone houses in Warwick. It was built by Edward
Luckman of Lapworth and Francis Overton of
Warwick for William Fetherston of Packwood, but
was acquired by Aaron Rogers and remained in his
family until about 1785 when, having become ruinous, it was sold to Francis Hiorn who sold it to the
county. (fn. 79)
Jury Street House was built by one of the Wagstaffes of Tachbrook and was later owned by John
Rous. In 1654 it was acquired by Sir Simon Archer; (fn. 80)
he or his heirs appear to have made extensive
alterations including re-facing some of the stone
walls with brickwork. (fn. 81) Described as 'a very good,
large, substantial house', (fn. 82) its front, from at least
the late 17th century onwards, was of brick with
stone dressings. It consisted of a central block of
three bays, having two stories and an attic; the
central doorway had Corinthian pilasters and a
segmental pediment, the latter with a cartouche
bearing the Archer arms at its apex. Two wings
projecting towards the street enclosed a small
forecourt. Both terminated in ogee-headed gableends with two-storied bay windows. The eastern
wing continued eastwards for a further three bays,
the central one having a matching bay window. A
round-headed doorway was in the end bay. (fn. 83) This
house remained in the Archer family until 1800,
though before that time it had ceased to be their
town house and had been converted into the Three
Tuns Inn. A Mr. Evans bought the house in 1800
and divided it, the western part being sold to the
Revd. Mr. Baynes, rector of Upton-on-Severn
(Worcs.), who pulled it down and covered the site of
the courtyard with a dining room, which had a brick
frontage and sash windows. The eastern part of the
house was purchased in 1820 by a Mr. Wilson, of
Exhall, who refronted it, destroying the bay
windows. The Lord Leycester Hotel now incorporates part of the house.
Towards the end of the 17th century heavy
moulded cornices and hipped roofs began to take the
place of the more flamboyant geometrical gables.
The Market House (1670) and Landor House
(1692-3) (fn. 84) were precursors of a style which, with
variations, was adopted by the builders in the town
after the fire of 1694. As the result of a petition to the
corporation that the Booth Hall was inadequate, a
committee was set up early in 1670 to bargain for
stone to erect a Market House. (fn. 85) William Hurlbut,
who was working at Warwick Castle and was later
employed on the county buildings, was appointed to
supervise the work, (fn. 86) and money was collected by
public subscription. (fn. 87) It was built on stone pillars, (fn. 88)
and from 1700 parts were rented to tradesmen. (fn. 89) In
the centre of the ground floor was a small prison,
later known as the Black Hole, where, until 1848,
prisoners were kept before trial by the magistrates. (fn. 90)
Part of one of the upper floors was used as a Leather
Hall, for which £2 rent was paid to the corporation
in 1697-8, and also for plays and wild beast shows. (fn. 91)
During the rebuilding of the Shire Hall the justices
used the Market Hall for their sessions. (fn. 92) In 1749
they leased it for four years, but remained there until
1757. (fn. 93) From 1764 the county militia used some of
the rooms as a store for arms and equipment, and
from 1811 until 1830 it was used by a wool stapler as
a warehouse. (fn. 94) In 1840 the Warwickshire Natural
History and Archaeological Society acquired the use
of the upper rooms. (fn. 95) About 1880 the arches were
filled in with glass but markets for corn and provisions continued to be held underneath until after
1905. (fn. 96) Thenceforward the whole building was used
as a museum, first by the society and from 1937 by
the county council. (fn. 97)
The hall is of local sandstone ashlar, 3 bays long
and 5 bays wide. The lower story, originally consisting of a continuous round-headed arcade and in 1810
fitted with iron palisades between the piers, (fn. 98) is now
glazed, with doors in the centre of each of the north
and south sides. The upper story has windows with
moulded architraves, and above is a heavily-moulded
stone cornice at the eaves beneath a hipped tile roof;
dormers were restored in 1965. The present lantern
is probably a 19th-century replacement for the
original cupola, which was topped by a ball,
mended in 1693-4. (fn. 99) A bell was cast to hang in the
cupola in the same year, costing £2 16s. (fn. 1) It was
removed to Warwick School in the 19th century. (fn. 2)
Another feature of the 17th century was the
conversion of existing timber-framed houses either
by the insertion of floors in medieval halls or by the
addition of rear buildings and upper stories. Thus in
the centre of the town a floor was inserted in the hall
of the house, now part of Lord Leicester's Hospital,
on the corner of High Street and Brook Street and,
later, in the Elizabethan House. Parallels may be
found in the suburbs, such as the Game of Bowls
Inn in St. Nicholas Church Street, and Nos. 17-19
Mill Street. (fn. 3) Rear extensions were added, often at
the solar end, but sometimes in the form of warehouses or barns. Such additions may be found, for
example, in the rear of Nos. 37 and 35 Jury Street,
or the Cavalier Inn in Smith Street. The process of
heightening may be illustrated by Nos. 23-25 Jury
Street, (fn. 4) probably originally of two two-storied wings
divided by a hall range. This house became threestoried early in the 17th century, as demonstrated by
the stone fireplace with a four-centred arch and
moulded jambs on the second floor.
The third decade of the 17th century, in particular,
also saw the construction of many completely new
timber houses throughout the town, several of them
having common characteristics in decoration. The
large timber-framed building at the corner of New
Street and Swan Street was built c. 1634 (fn. 5) as two or
more houses of two stories and attics in one range,
each house having two large attic gables. The first
and attic floors are jettied out on exposed joists at
their street fronts, with a dragon beam at the corner
on each floor. There is a grotesque carved figure at
the angle to the lower dragon beam. The framing
pattern, of small square panels with chevron work
to the first floor and quarter-rounds and chevron
work to the attic wall and gables, is also found in the
Tudor House Hotel in West Street. Similar threestoried houses of the early 17th century with jettied
fronts include Nos. 12-14 and 22 Jury Street, the
former being decorated with quarter-rounds in
small panels, now plastered. The gables have carved
bargeboards, found also in Smith Street and Bridge
End. (fn. 6) In general, however, adaptation and extension
seem to have been more common than complete
rebuilding in the centre of the town during the 17th
century.
The face of the centre of Warwick was radically
changed by a fire which in five or six hours rendered
more than 250 families homeless on 5 September
1694. First estimates put the damage at over
£90,000, (fn. 7) but later some 460 buildings, including
barns, malt houses, and stables were said to have
been consumed or damaged, and total losses were
thought to be about £120,000. (fn. 8) The fire probably
started at the entrance to a small lane off the south
side of High Street (fn. 9) and, fanned by a south-west
wind, proceeded to Castle Street, destroying the
south side of High Street entirely. The fire also
spread to the north side of the street and then
eastwards across Swan Street and Church Street
until it was halted in Jury Street by the stone
construction of Jury Street House. A few properties
in Swan Street and Castle Street were burnt, but the
main fire proceeded up Church Street and then
westwards along Pebble Lane, the top of New Street
and part of the Market Place. Thinking that St.
Mary's Church would provide a safe shelter for
belongings, some of the townsfolk are said to have
taken furniture there for safety. This, already
smouldering, set fire to the church, a large part of
which was destroyed. (fn. 10) The flames also spread
northwards into Sheep (now Northgate) Street,
damaging parts of the west side and destroying the
east side. Several houses in the Butts were also lost
before the fire burnt itself out.
Immediate measures for the relief of the homeless (fn. 11)
were succeeded, some three months after the fire, by
the establishment of a body of commissioners to
supervise the rebuilding of the town according to
the terms of an Act of Parliament. (fn. 12) This Act had as
its general aim the restoration and rebuilding of the
town, and specifically the regulation of new buildings
to prevent any recurrence. In the execution of these
aims the work of the rebuilding commissioners had
an effect on the town of prime importance. One of
the first reactions of the commissioners was to seek
information from Northampton, which had been
extensively burnt in 1675, and had been rebuilt
within ten years under the supervision of a body of
commissioners sitting as a court of record. (fn. 13) But in
practice Warwick's commissioners, unlike those of
Northampton, took full advantage of the powers
vested in them to rebuild the town in a more spacious
style, exercising their dual role of providing
adequate materials for the actual building, and
forming plans for improving the layout of the town.
'For the ornament, common convenience and
safety of the borough' it was decided that 'all public
streets and lanes therein should be of a convenient
wideness'. (fn. 14) The Act provided for the improvement
of Swan Lane (Swan Street), Pebble Lane, Church
Street, and Sheep Street, and it is evident that the
rebuilding commissioners also widened Jury Street
and High Street. Thus in May 1695 the main lines
from the top of Sheep Street to the High Cross and
from Jury Street House to the west end of High
Street were staked out, and the builders were
ordered to be governed by them. (fn. 15) At the same
time a survey was to be made of Swan Lane to
determine what demolition was needed in order
to straighten it. (fn. 16) Foxes Lane, off High Street, was
staked out a year later. (fn. 17) The only other major
change was the alteration of Pebble Lane: in its
place Old Square was opened at the west end of St.
Mary's, the effect of which was later impaired by the
need to build the new church tower over the road. (fn. 18)
Having marked out the general lines of the new
streets and awarded compensation for loss of property, (fn. 19) the commissioners proceeded to administer
the Act as it applied to detailed rebuilding. The
regularity still so apparent in the town is the result
of rigid building specifications. Houses were to be of
brick or stone and roofed with tile or slate; two
stories were to be the general rule, though three
could be allowed, and the height of each was
specified. Party walls were to be of uniform thickness, brickwork between adjoining houses was to be
bonded together so that no straight joints would
appear, timber framing and thatch were forbidden. (fn. 20)
The commissioners employed surveyors to ensure
that all conformed to their regulations. Samuel
Dunkley, mason, was regularly employed in this
work, and was aided at various times by John
Phillips of Broadway (Worcs.), carpenter, and
William Smith, bricklayer. (fn. 21) Their reports resulted
in orders that one owner should dismantle his upper
row of dormer windows, (fn. 22) that proprietors should
pave the streets in front of their houses, (fn. 23) that
dormers fronting the streets should be pedimented
and framed in lead. (fn. 24) But uniformity might be set
aside in favour of the influential: Mr. Newsham was
allowed the liberty of a projecting cornice, and
pilasters whose pedestals projected three inches
beyond the ground gable. (fn. 25)
The highlight of this planning was the scheme for
the cross roads at the centre of the town. The houses
at three of the corners belonging to Devereux
Whadcock, mercer, Robert Blissett, woollen draper,
and John Bradshaw, apothecary, (fn. 26) were to be built
on a more grandiose scale. The financial difficulties
of the corporation (fn. 27) presumably prevented them
from rebuilding the Court House at the same time,
although the Mayor's Parlour at the fourth corner
was slightly damaged. (fn. 28) The three rebuilt houses
were to be of equal height, the first two stories each
of ten feet, the third of eight feet, with garrets as the
commissioners should later determine. (fn. 29) This order
was given in May 1695 and by August building had
reached roof level. (fn. 30) An order was made that the
matching cornices should be of wood, with uniform
projection. Dormers constructed on his new house
by Mr. Blissett, however, were not allowed. (fn. 31) Later,
in June 1696, he was permitted to add pilasters,
though he had to adhere to strict measurements. (fn. 32)
Rebuilding was spread over about ten years, and
was hampered both by lack of materials and individual lethargy. Brick- and tile-makers were early
given space to work, (fn. 33) and quarries were established
in St. Mary's churchyard, and behind New Street. (fn. 34)
Rates for bricks and tiles were fixed, and the
activities of foreign joiners and carpenters were
circumscribed in favour of local craftsmen. (fn. 35)
Progress in reconstruction also depended on the
amount of compensation available: in July 1695, 25
people were ready to rebuild but were not to be paid
until the houses had reached first floor level. (fn. 36) By
October of that year scaffolding was set up along
High Street, and rubbish in front of the empty plots
was causing obstruction. (fn. 37) The High Cross was
temporarily removed at the same time. (fn. 38) The
builders of nine new houses, including the owner of
the 'Black Raven' in Sheep Street, were paid
compensation for completed buildings in April
1697. (fn. 39) At the same time the commissioners recited
the section of the rebuilding Act which allowed
disposal of property not yet developed. (fn. 40) In June
1698 a similar order was issued, owners of vacant
plots having to start rebuilding or to give security
for so doing by a given term, the alternative being
sale of the land at a fixed price. (fn. 41) There were still
vacant plots in High Street in 1704, (fn. 42) and Old
Square had not yet been completed. (fn. 43) The last
recorded session of the court of commissioners in
September 1704 evidently did not mark the completion of rebuilding. (fn. 44)
The rigid lines drawn up by the rebuilding
commissioners imposed a striking uniformity of
architectural style on the parts of the town affected
by the fire. In general the houses seem to fall into
two types, comprising either two or three stories of
brick, having stone dressings which included
prominent key-blocks, horizontal platbands between
the stories, and angle-quoins; or houses of ashlar,
mostly of three stories, with similar features, and the
addition of tall pilasters to the principal facade.
Typical of the first, and the most common type, are
Nos. 6-8 Jury Street, and of the second No. 30 Jury
Street. Several houses, for example Nos. 30-44 High
Street, were modified in the 19th century to three
full stories, and others, such as those on the eastern
side of Northgate Street have both early- and late18th-century details. No. 2, a good post-fire example,
retains its original mullioned and transomed casement windows at the side and rear, its 'M' shaped
roof, and a bolection-moulded door-frame with
eared architrave.
The uniformity of the frontages contrasts sharply
with the asymmetrical appearance of the rear
elevations, often a pointer to the probable survival
of earlier walls. The fire in some cases may merely
have destroyed those parts of the houses nearest the
streets, leaving some timber-framed structures in
the rear standing. (fn. 45) Similarly, many houses of timber
were refronted or re-roofed in contemporary style in
areas completely unaffected by the fire. No. 35 Jury
Street (the 'Porridge Pot'), was refronted in brick
with stone dressings c. 1700; a more extreme example
is the Bear and Baculus Inn at the corner of Brook
Street and High Street, and its neighbours Nos.
46-50 High Street which just escaped the fire. The
houses were refronted in brick early in the 18th
century, the inn probably later. The structural
evidence suggests, however, that the inn's 15thcentury roof was originally gabled towards High
Street, and only in the 18th century, when refronting
took place, was it hipped towards the adjacent streets.
As a cheaper alternative to rebuilding or refronting
in brickwork or masonry in the late 17th and 18th
centuries, there was a general move in Warwick,
as elsewhere, to conceal exposed framing under
plaster. (fn. 46) Associated with this was a refenestration
of the building concerned.
In the late 17th century, even before the fire had
given an impetus to the building trades, a number of
exceptionally skilled craftsmen were working in the
town. Some had been employed on improvements
at the castle between 1670 and 1690, notably
Samuel Dunkley, mason, and the brothers William
and Roger Hurlbut, carpenters. (fn. 47) Much of the
rebuilding after the fire was carried out by local
builders and craftsmen who were capable of
designing their own work and were later styled
'architects'. In the 18th century Warwick became
noted for several outstanding men of this type, the
best-known being Francis Smith, members of the
Hiorn family, and Thomas Johnson. (fn. 48) One of the
results was that an unusually high architectural
standard was maintained in the town itself between
the end of the 17th century and about 1800.
The enforced rebuilding of the centre of the town
gave impetus to the spread of new houses in areas
unaffected by the fire. Castle Street House, for
example, was built in 1720 by Thomas Warde, of
Barford, at a cost of £3,000. (fn. 49) It was constructed of
brick with stone dressings, and comprised two
stories and attics. The central block of three bays
had a pedimented central doorway. Projecting wings,
two bays deep, had angle pilasters facing the street.
Inside, there was said to be a 'curious marble
chimney piece' brought from Africa by Capt.
Newsam. (fn. 50) The house had a short life, being sold by
the builder's grandson to the Earl of Warwick in
1765 for £500, after which it was demolished and the
site used for the castle stables. (fn. 51) Also in Castle Street
was the Cross Keys Inn which, too, was of brick
with stone dressings. It had five bays, of two stories
and attics, with a central projecting porch and
round-headed entrance arch. This, again, was
demolished when the castle grounds were extended. (fn. 52)
The stone house known as 'Abbotsford' at the
northern end of the Market Place, now incorporated
in the Shire Hall, was built in 1714 (fn. 53) on the site of
the Bull Inn, and was probably designed by Francis
Smith. (fn. 54) The principal front of five bays has
Corinthian pilasters rising through all three stories
and a central doorway with a broken segmental
pediment. At the same period the houses on the east
side of Northgate Street, rebuilt soon after the fire,
were altered and in some cases refronted. Public
buildings followed private enterprise and culminated
in the rebuilding of the Shire Hall on the west side
of Northgate Street in 1753-8, and of the adjoining
county gaol and house of correction between 1779
and 1787. (fn. 55) Northgate Street thus became, and has
remained, a predominantly 18th-century street of
great architectural distinction.
The construction of the Court House on the site
of a medieval building as a suitable centre for the
activities of the corporation, formed a fitting
complement to the group already standing at the
central cross-roads of the town. A house or tavern
by the High Cross, formerly held by William
Edmondes and called either Edmonde's Place or the
Cross Tavern, was granted in 1510 to William
Compton as part of the perquisites of his office as
keeper of the castle. (fn. 56) It was held by two of his
successors, (fn. 57) but in 1554, described as the Court
House, it was granted to the bailiff and burgesses for
use as a common hall to hold the borough courts. (fn. 58)
Evidently their title was not secure, for the Court
House was among those properties which the
bailiff and burgesses tried to secure from the Earls
of Leicester and Warwick in 1571 in exchange for
their guild hall, though it is not specifically mentioned. (fn. 59) In 1576 the 'old suit of the town for the
assurance of . . . the Cross Tavern' was successfully
revived, the town acquiring the property. (fn. 60)
Thenceforward the Court House was used as the
meeting place of the corporation until 1590. (fn. 61) Shops
and rooms attached to it were leased: in 1581 four
tenants, including the warden of the shoemakers,
paid a total rent of 16s. 4d. (fn. 62) When the castle estate
passed to the Crown on the death of Ambrose
Dudley in 1590, the Court House, though not valued,
was included in the survey of his property. (fn. 63) It was
leased to the corporation by the Crown in 1595 for
40 years. The Crown in 1600 granted the property
to Richard Dawes and Thomas Wagstaffe, and in
the same year they sold it to William Spicer who
sold it to the corporation. (fn. 64)
During the 17th century the Court House was
used as the normal place for corporation business.
Part of the house, fronting on Castle Street, was
known as the Parlour as early as 1613 (fn. 65) and after
1664 this was known as the Mayor's Parlour. The
regular provision of pipes, wood and ale for the
Mayor's Parlour (fn. 66) suggests it was the place where
corporation hospitality was dispensed. The Parlour
was damaged in the fire of 1694. (fn. 67)
In 1724 the corporation resolved either to repair
or rebuild the Court House. Evidence was produced
on enquiry both that it was 'a good old strong
building' and that it was so unsafe as to have to be
supported by props. (fn. 68) It was eventually decided to
rebuild it, and work began in the following year,
continuing until 1730. Francis Smith, a borough
alderman, was the architect, and ironwork was made
by Thomas Paris and Benjamin King. The cost of
the work during the period 1724-31 was about
£2,254, a severe strain on corporation finances which
produced considerable opposition. (fn. 69) The Relators in
the Chancery Suit brought against the corporation
in 1735 complained that the Court House was used
'only for feasting and card-playing'. (fn. 70) As a result of
this same suit the Court House and its furnishings
were taken into the hands of Sequestration Commissioners in 1742. (fn. 71) The corporation resumed use if
not possession in 1761. (fn. 72)
By the beginning of the 19th century the Court
House, while still retaining an assembly room for the
corporation and a courtroom for borough sessions,
was a centre of social life in the town. Annual
entertainments were given there by the mayor, public
meetings and lectures of all kinds were held there
and, at least until 1815, monthly winter dancing
assemblies were regularly organized. (fn. 73) Meetings of
the corporation continued to be held there until
1926, when the present council chamber, in the
Pageant House next door, was opened. (fn. 74)
The Court House is a two-storied building of
rusticated ashlar masonry with facades to Jury Street
and Castle Street of five and three bays respectively.
The ground floor has round-headed openings while
on the upper floor the bays are divided by Roman
Doric pilasters surmounted by a triglyph frieze,
cornice, and parapet. On the Jury Street front a
central niche contains a figure of Justice by Thomas
Stayner (fn. 75) with the Royal Arms above and the badge
of the town below. Internally a first-floor ballroom
with Ionic pilasters and a coved ceiling extends the
whole length of the building. The exterior was
restored in 1960. (fn. 76)
The effect of expanding population in the first
decades of the 18th century may be gauged to some
extent by the increasing use made of land within the
central area, as well as in the established suburbs. A
comparison between the rolls of commoners of
Lammas land in 1698 and 1755 (fn. 77) reveals that 95 new
houses had been built in St. Mary's parish between
the two years, including fourteen in High Street, ten
in Church Street, and nineteen at the north end of
the Market Place, which may be directly attributable
to the fire. A number of large inns had by 1755 given
place to the houses of several private individuals:
Swan ground had four houses in place of the Swan
Inn, the Dolphin ground had three, the Bear and
Bell grounds two each. Subdivision of houses is
particularly noticeable in West Street. (fn. 78)
Of much greater effect on the form of the town
was the expansion of the castle grounds. (fn. 79) Between
1777 and 1790 the boundary of the castle was pushed
northwards to take in a number of small lanes,
eventually closing the ancient entrance to the town
from the south, which had been via Mill Street
beneath the castle walls and thence along Castle
Street. From 1788 the main approach was across the
new bridge, along a new road through the western
end of St. Nicholas Meadow, and then via Back
Hills to the East Gate. Such alterations must have
had widespread effects. Three large houses, Castle
Street House, the Cross Keys Inn and Dr. Hadow's
house, were bought and demolished; part of St.
Mary's Poor Houses in the Saltisford (fn. 80) was erected
in place of almshouses formerly in Rosemary Lane
which had now disappeared; the Presbyterian chapel
in Meeting House Lane was removed, and what is
now the Unitarian chapel in High Street was
provided in its stead. (fn. 81) Smaller private houses, too,
must have been demolished in some numbers. In
1800, when the castle improvements were virtually
completed, there remained a number of small, poor
houses opposite St. Nicholas's Church, near the
main entrance to the castle. When it was rumoured
that the king and the royal family were coming from
Cheltenham to stay with the Earl of Warwick, these
houses were purchased and pulled down in a single
day. (fn. 82)
The sharp increase in population at the end of the
18th and the beginning of the 19th century, while
felt most strongly in the Saltisford and West Street
suburbs (fn. 83) was also of some significance in the centre
of the town. Cramped quarters were constructed in
the framework of already established properties in
the form of courts: Albion Court was built off the
east side of Bowling Green Street, Pickett's Court in
Swan Street, Carnall's Court in Brook Street, and
Bryant's, Edward's, and Lapworth's Courts off
Market Street. (fn. 84)
Despite these additions the face of the centre of
the town changed little during the 19th century.
Increased traffic inevitably led to minor roadwidening improvements, and Warwick was later
remembered by a barrister as the only town in the
midland circuit whose streets were completely
flagged, 'the pathways being formed of stones, their
small and pointed ends turned upwards, presenting
to the eye the appearance of petrified kidneys'. (fn. 85)
Arguments for the removal of markets and fairs from
the town were put forward as much to prevent
traffic congestion as on grounds of public health. (fn. 86)
By the middle of the century (fn. 87) three small factories
had been established in the area: there was a candle
factory between Theatre Street and Market Street,
a pipe factory also off Market Street to the south of
the 'Woolpack', and a soda water factory at the
corner of High Street and Brook Street, now forming
part of Lord Leicester's Hospital. The Market Place
was still used for the sale of pigs, but considerable
improvements had been made. The removal of the
Booth Hall in 1791 (fn. 88) was followed, in 1804, by the
construction of the iron bridge over the Holloway,
giving improved access. (fn. 89) The demolition of the
Flying Horse Inn, which had stood opposite the
west end of the Market House, in 1839, further
opened the market space to traffic. (fn. 90)
The professional and commercial centre of the
town was still, in 1851, concentrated around High
Street, which contained the Warwick and Warwickshire Bank and the Warwick Advertiser and Stamp
Office. In Castle Street, besides the Dispensary, was
the Royal Naval Insurance Office; in Back Lane
stood the Standard Life Imperial Fire Office; and in
Church Street a branch of the Leamington Priors
the northern end of the Market Place, which backed
on to the county gaol and the Judges' Lodgings.
Some of these properties were replaced in the last
decades of the 19th century, to make way for the
Coffee Tavern (1880) and the new post office (1886). (fn. 91)

Figure 16:
Warwick 1965
1. St. Mary's Poor Houses.
2. Site of County gaol.
3. Site of Joyce Pool House.
4. The Deanery.
5. Site of St. Mary's College.
6. Judges' Lodgings.
7. 'Abbotsford'.
8. Site of Booth Hall.
9. Site of Theatre.
10. Site of St. John's Church.
11. Site of Corn Exchange.
12. Market House (Museum).
13. Site of Jury St. House.
14. East Gate and St. Peter's Chapel.
15. Eyffler's and Oken's almshouses.
16. Site of Vineyard.
17. Pageant House.
18. Court House.
19. Site of St. Peter's Church.
20. Site of Puckering's 'almshouses'.
21. Lord Leicester's Hospital.
22. West Gate and St. James' Chapel.
23. Friends' Meeting House.
24. Site of Saunders Row.
25. Site of Brittain (or Rosemary) Lane.
26. Site of Walkers (or Avon, or Watercart) Lane.
27. Castle Bridge (rems.).
28. High Ladsome.
29. Site of Crosse St.
To the west of the Market Place, where the land
and Warwickshire Bank, next to the Athenaeum.
Inns, though plentiful elsewhere, were particularly
concentrated around the Market Place, which also
boasted the Warwick and Leamington Bank (now
Lloyds Bank) and the post office. This latter formed
part of a range of small properties in Old Square and
drops away towards the racecourse, stood the
theatre. (fn. 92) Behind it, approached from Market Hill,
was the lock-up, complete with prisoners' yard, the
successor of the 'Black Hole' in the Market House. (fn. 93)
Until 1855 the Castle Hotel and Excise Office stood
at the top of Market Street. It was bought by the
Corn Exchange Company in that year, and was
demolished to make way for the Corn Exchange,
designed by James Murray of Coventry. (fn. 94)
Beyond the complex of county buildings in
Northgate Street (fn. 95) lay an area between the Butts and
Chapel Street which has undergone considerable
change since the middle of the 19th century. In 1851
it was still the gardens of Landor House, and
stretched from Smith Street to a point opposite St.
Mary's vicarage. Trees and extensive lawns became
after 1875 the site of Warwick Middle School (later
Warwick Technical School) and later part of the
Girls' High School. (fn. 96) The Butts, originally an open
space for archery practice, known until the 18th
century as 'Bachelors' Butts', (fn. 97) was used for the
sheep fair by 1837. (fn. 98)
Major changes in the central area of the town have
been left to the 20th century. The tramway track in
High Street and Jury Street frequently caused
inconvenience and congestion, (fn. 99) and general traffic
problems began to be voiced in the 1920s. (fn. 1) Since the
Second World War Warwick has become 'a serious
bottle-neck in the regional road system'. (fn. 2) A by-pass,
mooted as part of a redevelopment plan in 1947, (fn. 3) is
now (1965) under construction. A Central Area
Redevelopment Plan, (fn. 4) prepared by the Civic Trust,
the Warwickshire County Council and the borough
council began in 1965 with the demolition of the
western side of Market Street for the erection of
new shops. The plans involve the rebuilding of the
Market Place area, of which the new extensions to
the Shire Hall are an integral part. The Market
Place itself will become a precinct, with shops concentrated in the southern part. A new bus terminus
is to be provided, together with multi-story and
underground car parks.