HAMPSTEAD
Hampstead, (fn. 1) known for its left-wing intellectuals
and, as 'Appy 'Ampstead, as the playground of
London's East End, (fn. 2) lies with its south-western
corner 3.2 km. north of Marble Arch. A compact
parish estimated at 2,070 a. in 1831 and containing
2,265 a. (c. 917 ha.) in 1931, (fn. 3) it is diamond shaped,
c. 3.2 km. in length and breath. The boundaries of
the parish were described in 10th-century charters. (fn. 4)
The genuine charter of King Edgar, c. 970, gives
only four boundary marks: Watling Street or
Edgware Road forming the south-western boundary
with Willesden, the cucking pool apparently on
Watling Street at the western angle, Sandgate, which
has been identified with North End near the northern angle, and Foxhanger. (fn. 5) If Foxhanger was Haverstock Hill, a suggestion that seems likely, the whole
east side of the later parish was excluded. The
charter attributed to King Æthelred gives more
detail: from Sandgate the boundary ran east to
Bedegar's styvic leage, possibly a hog or cattle run,
thence to Deormod's wic or farm, to Middle Hampstead, and along the hedge to the rush leage. Parts of
the boundary and hedge were visible in 1986 and
there is every indication that the north-eastern
boundary with St. Pancras has since remained constant. The south-eastern boundary with St. Pancras
and Marylebone ran westward to the barrow, probably Barrow Hill at Primrose Hill, then to Stangrafe
(? Stonepit) and Watling Street. Dense woodland
along the north-western and south-eastern boundaries and common ownership of estates on either side
of them led to ambiguity, for example at Childs Hill
and St. John's Wood. The Templars, who held St.
John's Wood, denied any connexion with Hampstead. When the wood was cleared, the parish
boundary ran through the middle of fields and there
were disputes with St. Marylebone and St. Pancras
over its course, especially at Primrose Hill, in 1751,
1821, and 1843. (fn. 6) Boundaries were determined by the
manor court in 1632, by the churchwardens in 1671,
and by the vestry by the 18th century. (fn. 7) Some 70
boundary stones were needed in 1824. (fn. 8) When
Hampstead metropolitan borough was created under
the Local Government Act, 1899, adjustments were
made to the south-eastern boundary, the main effect
of which was to straighten the line along Greville
Place and Boundary Road. (fn. 9)
THE HOLBORN DIVISION
The boundaries are those of 1819
London Clay, which covers all the parish, is
capped in the north-east by Claygate Beds and
Bagshot sands, producing the sands, gravel, and
elevation of Hampstead Heath. (fn. 10) From 30 m. in the
south-west, the ground rises to 133 m. near Jack
Straw's Castle. (fn. 11)
Before it was drained and ponds were created,
much of the heath was marshy. (fn. 12) Springs and streams
fringed the heath, arising especially at the junction
of sand and clay. (fn. 13) A few streams flowed north, to
become tributaries of the Brent, but most became
feeders for the three main southward-flowing rivers,
the Holborn or Fleet in the east, (fn. 14) the Tyburn, of
which the main source was Shepherd's Well, and
the Westbourne in the west, fed by branches arising
in Frognal and on Telegraph Hill and joining at the
site of Kilburn priory to become Kilburn brook (fn. 15)
(also called Ranelagh sewer or Bayswater rivulet). (fn. 16)
The boundary stream mentioned in the AngloSaxon charters gave its name to the Slade (fn. 17) and
flowed westward as a tributary of the Brent, but had
dried up by the 17th century. (fn. 18)