CHAPTER XXVII
Cleveland Row
Cleveland Row takes its name from Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, who lived at
Cleveland (formerly Berkshire) House,
part of the site of which is now occupied by
Bridgwater House.
That part of Cleveland Row which runs between Selwyn House and Bridgwater House was
formed about 1847 after the demolition of Cleveland House, and it occupies most of the site of the
old forecourt and two projecting wings. All
the rest of Cleveland Row was formerly part of the
old highway which led from Charing Cross to
Hyde Park (see page 322 and Plate 1), and the sites
of Nos. 8–12 (consec.) Cleveland Row and
Stornoway House were also part of the old road.
In 1850 a scheme was considered for the improvement of Cleveland Row, which, had it been
carried out, would have provided a vista from Pall
Mall to a magnificent entrance into Green Park. (ref. 1)
The originator of this plan was apparently Sir
Charles Barry, the architect of Bridgwater House,
which was then nearing completion. He proposed
to remove all the buildings between the latter and
Stafford (now Lancaster) House to form a grand
square. (ref. 2) As an entrance to the Green Park Barry
designed a pierced screen which was to flank
Nash's triumphal arch, then recently removed
from its original position in front of Buckingham
Palace (Plate 245). The scheme was not
executed, and Nash's 'Marble Arch' was reerected in its present position at Cumberland Gate
in 1851. (ref. 3)
When the Alliance Assurance Company building on the corner of St. James's Street and the
present Nos. 3 and 7 Cleveland Row were erected
in 1904–6 the opportunity to widen Cleveland
Row was taken and the building line set back. (ref. 4)
North Side
All the ground on the north side of Cleveland
Row, except the site of Berkshire House, was
originally part of the Pulteney estate (fig. 81).
According to a survey of 1667 there were, bordering the old highway from east to west, a house
formerly occupied by Sir Henry Henne on the
corner of St. James's Street; three houses grouped
round Russell Court; a vacant site; three more
houses; a grass plot; Berkshire House; some outhouses belonging to Berkshire House and a house
occupied by William Smith. (ref. 5) The house on the
corner of St. James's Street was assigned in 1663
by Sir William Pulteney to (Sir) Goddard Nelthorpe (ref. 6) and thereafter ceased to be part of the
Pulteney estate. The land on which the outhouses
of Berkshire House stood, together with the house
occupied by William Smith and the grass plot on
the east side of Berkshire House, were ceded by
Sir William Pulteney for the use of the Duchess of
Cleveland, who built two wings to Berkshire
House on their sites; the freehold of these parts of
the Pulteney estate was granted to the Duchess's
son in 1690 (see page 493). The remaining
property on the north side of the street which was
still in Sir William Pulteney's possession at the
time of his death in 1691 consisted of the three
houses on the east side of Berkshire (then Cleveland) House, later Nos. 4–6 (consec.) Cleveland
Row; a new house between them and Russell
Court, erected between 1684 and 1686 on a
vacant plot of land, later No. 3 Cleveland Row;
another house in Cleveland Row on the west side
of Russell Court, later No. 2 Cleveland Row; and
three houses in Russell Court itself. (ref. 7) All this
property continued to be let, either to individual
members of the Pulteney family or to their trustees, on separate leases until 1822, when the whole
of it was let to Sir Richard Sutton (ref. 8) (see page 28).
Some of the old houses mentioned in this lease
survived until the beginning of the twentieth century when they were demolished to make way for
the Alliance Assurance Company building on the
east side of Russell Court and the present Nos.
3 and 7 Cleveland Row, on the west side of
Russell Court. Persons of interest who occupied
these houses and former houses on their sites are
listed below. (ref. 9)
No. 3 Cleveland Row. Hugh, first Earl of
Cholmondeley, Treasurer of the Household,
1686–94; John Pulteney, son of Sir William, (ref. 10)
and Surveyor General of Crown lands, 1695–
1720; (ref. 11) his son, Daniel Pulteney, politician, (ref. 12)
1721–30; Madam Pulteney, 1731–4; Sarah
Pulteney, 1735–7; Margaret Pulteney, 1738–
1763; (Sir) Richard Joseph Sullivan, miscellaneous
writer, 1784–7 ; John Fordyce, Surveyor General
of Crown lands, 1788–97; Sir Gilbert Blane,
physician, 1804–21; James Coppock, election
agent, 1835–57.

Figure 81:
The Pulteney estate and Cleveland House and garden, layout plan. Based on the Ordnance Survey
A, C, F, I, L. Parts of Pulteney leasehold estate acquired by the Duchess of Cleveland and granted freehold by the Crown
to her son, the Duke of Grafton, in 1690. A. Part of Sandpit Field, C. Strip of land originally held with Berkshire House on
which west wing of Cleveland House was built and, north of dotted line, site sold to Francis Parry in 1695. F. House formerly
occupied by John Ogle. I. The Antelope. L. Site of east wing of Cleveland House. B, D, E. Part of Pulteney estate surrendered
to the Crown for formation of Green Park. B. Leased to Francis Parry in 1692. D. Part of park later leased by Crown for
use as gardens. E. Catherine Wheel Yard, stopped up in c. 1843. G. Part of old highway acquired by tbe Duchess of Cleveland
and granted freehold by the Crown to her son, the Duke of Grafton, in 1690. H. Site of Berkshire House (later Cleveland
House) and garden. J. Land granted freehold by the Crown in 1671–97 and, south of dotted line, acquired by the Devisscher
family. K. Part of Pulteney estate leased by the Crown to Sir William Pulteney in 1668. M. Site assigned by Sir William
Pulteney to (Sir) Goddard Nelthorpe in 1663.
No. 4 Cleveland Row. Lord Chamberlain's
office, 1743–61 ; Secretary of State's office (with
No. 5), 1770–83; Sir William Sidney Smith,
admiral, 1811–12.
No. 5 Cleveland Row. Secretary of State's
office (with No. 4), 1770–83; Captain Frederick
Marryat, novelist, 1822–7; Viscount Lowther,
later second Earl of Lonsdale, member of Parliament, 1831–6.
No. 6 Cleveland Row. John Grenville, Earl of
Bath, 1670; Thomas Archer, ? the architect,
1717 ; (ref. 12) Francis Negus, the reputed inventor of
negus, 1717–19; Robert Wood, traveller and
politician, 1757–9, 1762–3; John Campbell,
third Earl of Breadalbane, 1764–9.
Nos. 3 and 7 Cleveland Row
This building was erected in 1905–6 for Joseph Harry Lukach to the designs of Frank T. Verity. (ref. 13)
The contractor was James Carmichael of Trinity
Road, Wandsworth. (ref. 14) Negotiations for the rebuilding of part of the site had been proceeding
since 1900 between Luckach and the Office of
Woods and Forests, and William Woodward had
submitted a number of plans on Luckach's behalf.
Ultimately Woodward was superseded by Verity,
whose designs were based on those already
approved by the Crown. Verity's façade was
intended to harmonize with both Bridgwater
House and the adjoining Alliance Assurance
building. (ref. 15)
The new building comprised three houses, then
known as Nos. 3–5 (consec.) Cleveland Row, and
a set of flats known as No. 7. (ref. 16) The top floor of
the latter was occupied for many years by the London Fencing Club. (ref. 17) In 1909–10 the houses
were converted into flats, with a single entrance at
No. 3 Cleveland Row; the architect was F. T.
Verity. (ref. 18) Part of the building is now occupied by
the Sudanese Embassy. (ref. 19)
The building contains a semi-basement, four
storeys, and a garret, and has Portland stone fronts
towards Cleveland Row and Little St. James's
Street which are typical examples of Frank
Verity's urbane Parisian 'maisons-de-luxe' style
(Plate 277a).
The long Cleveland Row front is divided into a
wide central face and narrow wings by two projecting pavilions. Each storey of the central face
contains four windows, a pair in the middle and
one at each end; the pavilions have two windows
in each storey; each end wing has one. The
ground-storey face is channel-jointed throughout,
forming wide and narrow courses alternately, and
the low windows have segmental voussoired
arches. The windows in the second and third
storeys are linked vertically by plain band architraves, finished with cornice-hoods on triglyphed
consoles. In the pavilions and wings, each hood
forms a base for the wrought-iron balcony of the
fourth-storey window, but in the central face the
consoles support a continued balcony serving all
four windows. The central face and wings are of
plain ashlar, the projecting pavilions are coursed
with channel-joints, and all are uniformly finished
with a deep entablature, its architrave broken by
the fourth-storey windows. The cornice has dentils and modillions in pairs, and above each
pavilion is a stone dormer with two windows,
dressed with Doric pilasters and a simple entablature. The high-pitched roof is broken by woodframed dormers and massive stone chimneystacks. The entrance in the east wing has a doorcase composed of Doric columns supporting a
plain entablature. Two similar doorcases, in the
end bays of the central face, have been replaced by
windows. The front area is guarded by a stone
pedestal containing panels of ironwork similar in
design to the fourth-storey balconies.
Russell Court and Mews
Russell Court is shown on a plan of c. 1664. (ref. 20)
It took its name from the family which occupied a
house on the north side of the court. (ref. 21) In 1651
— Russell, gentleman, occupied the house (ref. 21) and
Owen Russell was living there in 1667. (ref. 22)
Occupants of the former No. 3 Russell Court
have included John Pulteney, Surveyor General of
Crown lands, 1720–7, William Bulmer, printer,
who founded the Shakespeare Press here, 1791–
1820, and William Seguier, followed by his
brother John, both artists, who established a picture-restoring business here, 1834–56. (ref. 9) In 1788
Russell Court was extended to form a range of
stable buildings, sometimes called Russell Yard or
Mews. (ref. 23) There are no longer any buildings with
fronts to Russell Court, and the north and east
sides are now occupied by the backs of the Union
Club and the Alliance Assurance building. Russell
Mews, however, appears not to have been rebuilt,
although adaptation to new uses has drastically
altered its appearance. Two-storeyed stable
buildings of yellow brick extend round its north
and west sides, with a single bay of building on the
south side. The stables occupy the ground storey
of these buildings while the upper storey has
chambers lit by small square windows with slightly
curved heads, occasional taller windows with
round heads being interspersed among them. One
of these taller windows, at the east end, has an
iron guard-rail. At first-floor level is a moulded
stucco bandcourse, and set into the brickwork of
the upper storey on the north side is an oval plaque
bearing the profile of a woman's head in low
relief.
Berkshire House
Demolished
Berkshire House stood opposite St. James's
Palace on the north side of the old highway leading from Charing Cross to Hyde Park, on part of
the site now occupied by Bridgwater House. Very
little information about it has come to light, and
the history of the site (H on fig. 81), the freehold
of which has been privately owned since at least
1668, is especially puzzling. The absence of any
record of the site being granted away by the Crown
since the formation of the Bailiwick of St. James
suggests that it was never part of the bailiwick, but
its origin nevertheless remains obscure.
Berkshire House was built about 1626–7 (ref. 24) for
Thomas Howard, the second son of the Earl of
Suffolk. He entered the royal service as Master of
the Horse to Charles I when the latter was Prince
of Wales. In January 1621/2 he was created
Lord Howard of Charlton and Viscount Andover
and in February 1625/6 he received the Earldom
of Berkshire. (ref. 25)
In March 1625/6 the Earl was granted a lease
of a strip of land (part of the Pulteney estate) on
the west side of Berkshire House, (ref. 26) the building
of which therefore probably dates from about this
time. The strip of land was used with part of the
gardens behind the house (C on fig. 81). A grotto,
mount and summerhouse were erected at the
northern end of the slip, and at the south end
kitchens and stables were built. (ref. 27)
Berkshire House is marked on Faithorne and
Newcourt's map, published in 1658 (Plate 1)
but it is difficult to distinguish it from the other
buildings facing St. James's Palace which are
known to have stood on its east and west sides at
that time. The knot garden behind the house is
also shown, surrounded by a wall, with the summerhouse in the north-west corner; the garden
did not extend as far east as the map suggests, being
separated from St. James's Street by part of the
Pulteney estate (see fig. 81).
The Earl of Berkshire declared for the King on
the outbreak of the Civil War and distinguished
himself in the fighting that followed. (ref. 28) His house
was commandeered by the parliamentary army for
quartering soldiers and 'tho' the officers had shown
some care, much prejudice had been done to the
house'. (ref. 29)
In 1654 Berkshire House was occupied by the
Portuguese ambassador who dated a letter from
here on 22 April. (ref. 30) This is the first recorded use
of the house by foreign ambassadors—a use which
was to recur several times later in the century.
Between 1658 and 1664 the Earl of Berkshire's
name re-appears in the ratebooks, but in 1665 the
house was taken over for the accommodation of
the French ambassador.
The accounts of the repairs and alterations
carried out by the Office of Works in preparation
for the ambassador provide the only pointer to the
appearance of the house. They mention a 'vollery', a vineyard, a laundry, stables with rooms
over them, and a kitchen next the courtyard. The
number of rooms in the house may be judged from
the fact that forty-five chimneys had to be swept.
Repairs included whitening the walls of the hall,
the walls and ceiling of the great staircase, the
'freeze and Cornish' in the great dining-room, and
the blackening of the 'bottoms' of several rooms
above and below stairs. The hall was paved with
stone and there was a gallery in which a new altar
was set up. The great gates to the forecourt were
repaired with 'bourds and battens' and distempered
with 'timber Colour'. At the same time a new
water supply was laid on from the main pipe which
brought water to St. James's Palace from St.
James's Field. (ref. 31)
During the autumn of 1666 the house was
occupied by Edward Hyde, Earl of Clarendon
and Lord Chancellor. (ref. 32) The building of his
magnificent house in Piccadilly had begun earlier
in the year and he probably only used Berkshire
House as a temporary home.
By 1667 the Earl of Berkshire had mortgaged
Berkshire House to the Earl of Craven (ref. 23) and in
the following year he petitioned the King for a
grant of £3000 in order to redeem the mortgage. (ref. 33)
The money was promised, in return for his many
services, but he died in 1669 (ref. 25) without having received it, (ref. 34) and the ownership passed from his
family. The name of the house was changed
shortly afterwards to Cleveland House (see
below), but although it acquired a new name and
was much altered in its external appearance (Plate
233a) the carcase of the original building appears
to have survived until 1840 or 1841, when it was
demolished to make way for Bridgwater House.
Cleveland House and Garden
Demolished
Berkshire House is reported to have been
bought in 1668 by Charles II for his mistress
Barbara Villiers, then Countess of Castlemaine
and later Duchess of Cleveland. The house had
probably been unoccupied since the Earl of
Clarendon's flight to France in November 1667.
He and Lady Castlemaine had been avowed
enemies; she had had a share in bringing about his
downfall, (ref. 35) and had publicly 'hoped to see his head
upon a stake'. (ref. 36) Her acquisition of the house in
which he had recently lived may have been for her
a petty triumph over her ruined opponent.
In May 1668 William, Earl of Craven, Lord
Berkshire's mortgagee, and Sir Anthony Craven
sold the house for £6000 to George Villiers, Viscount Grandison, and Sir Alien Apsley. (ref. 37)
Grandison was Lady Castlemaine's uncle, (ref. 25) and
Apsley was treasurer of the household to the Duke
of York; they were probably acting on behalf of
the Countess.
Barbara Villiers (1641–1709) was the daughter
of William, Viscount Grandison. She married
Roger Palmer in 1659 and shortly afterwards became the mistress of Charles II. On her husband's
elevation to the peerage she became Countess of
Castlemaine, (ref. 38) and she was created Duchess of
Cleveland in 1670. She appears to have been the
least discreet and most predatory of all Charles's
mistresses and although the acquisition of Berkshire House and her removal from her lodgings in
Whitehall (ref. 39) marked the decline of her prime
position in the King's court, she continued thereafter to reap benefits from their past association. (ref. 40)
By 1668 Berkshire House, which had been
standing for about forty years, was probably considered old-fashioned and inconvenient, and the
amount of land at her disposal was not sufficient
for Lady Castlemaine's schemes for enlargement
and improvement. In 1668 Sir William Pulteney
had been required to surrender part of his estate to
the Crown for the formation of the Green Park,
and the Countess persuaded the King that parts
which adjoined Berkshire House, and which were
not needed for the formation of the new park,
should not be returned to Sir William, but given
to her. At some time between 1668 and 1670 (ref. 41)
the Countess's trustees purchased the leases then
in being, from Pulteney and his under-tenants, of
the house and land formerly occupied by John
Ogle and then by William Smith; the strip
adjoining Berkshire House (which had been let by
Sir William Pulteney's ancestor to the Earl of
Berkshire and acquired by the Countess's trustees
at the time of the purchase of the house); a grass
plot on the east side of the house; and the tenement
in St. James's Street called the Antelope which
adjoined Berkshire House garden at its northern
end. In addition the Countess acquired a piece of
the old highway adjoining the Stable Yard of St.
James's Palace and a piece of waste ground (part of
Sandpit Field) outside the north-west corner of her
garden. The last two, said the Surveyor General
in a report of 1680, 'I take to be in her grace's
possession without any grant thereof yet made by
his Maty.' (ref. 42) The disposition of these six pieces of
ground is marked on fig. 81 (A, C, F, G, I, L).
A week before the conveyance of the house was
made Pepys heard a rumour that Lady Castlemaine was 'to go to Barkeshire-house, which is
taken for her, and they say a Privy-Seal is passed
for £5000 for it'. (ref. 43) In fact the conveyance was
made for £6000 and a privy seal warrant for
£8589 0s. 11d. was passed in 1675 to Viscount
Grandison and Edward Villiers, which sum included £1800 for the purchase of the pieces of
land which had belonged to the Pulteney estate. (ref. 44)
In 1670 Lady Castlemaine was created
Duchess of Cleveland in her own right (ref. 25) and
henceforth her new title became attached to
Berkshire House. The additional land which she
had acquired enabled the Duchess to build 'a fair
stable' and yard on part of the old highway (page
504) and an ice-house in the north-west corner of
her garden (page 534). She also built an east and a
west wing on the old house which was thus provided with a larger forecourt, later known as
Cleveland Square. (ref. 42) The front of the old house
was evidently refaced and perhaps extended at the
same time.
The engraving reproduced on Plate 233a shows
the south aspect of Cleveland House after 1786–7,
when the west wing was destroyed by fire. It
shows that the front of the long main range was
uniform in its vertical arrangement, with two
lofty storeys defined by bandcourses, an attic
with long oval windows below the modillioned
eaves-cornice, and a steeply pitched roof containing hipped dormers. The horizontal spacing of
the windows was curiously irregular, although the
scroll-pedimented doorway was reasonably near
the middle of the front. The artist has, however,
taken the trouble to indicate a slight break in the
front, three windows from the east end, and if this
means that the east part of the range was an addition, it will be seen that the elevation was originally symmetrical, being eight windows wide with
the openings spaced in pairs to flank recessed
panels, and a wide pier in the middle of the front.
It is worth noting that although the ground-storey
windows were set in plain flat-arched openings,
those of the second storey were dressed with
apron panels and set, with plain tympana, in
elliptically arched recesses. Windows treated after
this fashion can still be seen at Nos. 52–55
Newington Green, Stoke Newington, houses
built in 1658, and formerly existed in the mid
seventeenth-century wing of Brooke House,
Hackney.
The interior of Cleveland House was furnished
in a lavish and splendid manner. Evelyn thought
the staircase and gallery 'sumptuous' and the
whole house 'noble' but 'too good for that infamous —'. (ref. 45) Some of the furniture was imported from the Continent. In 1673 three cases
containing candlesticks and fire-irons, transported
by the King's yacht, arrived at Cleveland House;
eight painted screens and twelve 'fired wiggerd'
screens came from Flanders; and a table, stands
and a border for a looking-glass were brought
from Calais. (ref. 46) The Earl of Chesterfield provided the Duchess with a figure for a fountain—'a
Cupid kneeling on a rock and shooting from his
bow a stream of water up towards heaven'. (ref. 47)
The Duchess occupied Cleveland House until
1677. (ref. 23) In that year she went to live in France,
where she remained until 1684. (ref. 35) During her
absence the house was let in 1679 and 1680 to the
Marquis of Arronches, ambassador of the Prince
of Portugal, who equipped it with 'costly furniture', 'rich [Japan] Cabinets', and a billiard-table,
and entertained his guests with Portuguese dishes
'hash'd and Condited after their way'. (ref. 48)
In 1680 the Duchess and her trustees mortgaged the house for £4240, assigning it to Christopher Cratford, the nominee of the Earl (later
the Marquis) of Powis, who had provided the
money. (ref. 49)
It is not clear whether the Duchess occupied
the house on her return to England in 1684, (ref. 35) but
eventually, in 1688 or 1689, she succeeded in
selling it to John Rossington, a speculator. (ref. 50)
Rossington first appears in the St. James's area
in 1671 when, under the description of John Rossington of St. Martin's in the Fields, gentleman,
he took a lease from Ambrose Scudamore of a
piece of land on the south side of Pall Mall on
which he built several houses. (ref. 51) It was probably
one of these houses for which he was rated from
1671 to 1673. (ref. 23) There are several references to a
'Rossington', who may have been John, in Hooke's
Diary during the 1670's, in circumstances suggesting an interest in the rebuilding of the City after
the Fire, and John Rossington was also engaged
in building ventures near Berkeley House and in
Duke's Court, St. Martin's Lane, in 1685. (ref. 52)
These were all minor schemes compared with the
development of the Cleveland House estate, in
which Rossington, described as a 'Master builder',
was assisted by his brother Joseph, a bricklayer, (ref. 53) a
nephew Joseph and, to a lesser degree, by a
Robert Rossington, who was probably a lawyer.
His first venture in the area on the west side of
St. James's Street seems to have been the laying
out of the south side of Park Place on part of the
Antelope site, of which he held a lease from either
Sir William Pulteney or the Duchess of Cleveland's trustees (see page 542). Rossington had
purchased Cleveland House still encumbered by
the Powis mortgage, which had become vested in
the bankers, Sir Francis Child and John Rogers.
In March 1689 the mortgage was further secured
by an assignment of the property from the Duchess
of Cleveland, her son, the Duke of Grafton, their
trustee, Sidney, Lord Godolphin, and John
Rossington to Roger Jac(k)son and John Milbourne in trust for Child and Rogers. (ref. 54) The
northern part of Cleveland House garden was
probably excepted from this assignment, and was
sold by Rossington in 1690 to the Marquis of
Halifax (see page 517).
Rossington had probably also purchased the
leases of the six pieces of land, mentioned earlier as
being held with Cleveland House. In 1690 the
Duke of Grafton, after two earlier unsuccessful
attempts, (ref. 55) obtained a grant of the freehold of
these six pieces from the Crown. (ref. 56) The Duke
died later that year leaving his son Charles, an
infant, as his heir at law, and the young Duke's
guardians, Edward, Earl of Lichfield, and Sidney,
Lord Godolphin, obtained an Act of Parliament
enabling them to sell the six pieces. (ref. 57) They were
conveyed, with the exception of the site of the
Antelope, in 1693 to William Gulston and Aaron
Kinton, in trust for Roger Jacson and John Milbourne. (ref. 58) Here again, presumably, Jacson and
Milbourne were acting as trustees for Sir Francis
Child and John Rogers.
On the same day that the conveyance of the five
pieces was made all the parties concerned entered
into an indenture of defeasance whereby Child,
Rogers, Jacson, Milbourne, Gulston and Kinton
covenanted on receipt of £11,431 12s. 6d., to be
shared amongst them, to convey to John and
Joseph Rossington all their interest in the
Cleveland House estate. (ref. 59) The Rossingtons never
did redeem the mortgage. Together with the
mortgagees they had sold a second piece of Cleveland House garden in 1691 to the Marquis of
Halifax and by 1700 had disposed of the rest of the
estate in parcels (see pages 495, 504, 513). Their
connexion with the estate did not end here, however, for they took several building leases of individual sites.
Judging from the number of lawsuits in which
John Rossington became involved with the workmen engaged by him to develop the sites, he was
not an efficient man of business. In 1696 he was
said to have 'failed in the world' and Joseph
Rossington (presumably his brother) followed
him into insolvency. (ref. 60) About the year 1700 John
Rossington was arrested at the instigation of his
creditors and imprisoned. He 'removed himselfe'
by habeas corpus to the Fleet and died about 1702,
leaving his nephew, Joseph, as heir to his debts. (ref. 61)
The history of the development of the Cleveland
House estate is discussed in detail in the chapters
on St. James's Place, Catherine Wheel Yard, Park
Place and on pages 495, 504, in this chapter.
Cleveland House itself was hired from John
Rossington in 1689 for the entertainment of the
Dutch ambassadors (ref. 62) and towards the end of the
year it was taken by Daniel Finch, second Earl of
Nottingham, and Secretary at War, (ref. 63) who lived in
Cleveland House until 1695. (ref. 23) During his occupation the two wings were separated from the
main building and converted into separate houses,
later numbered in Cleveland Square (see page 495).
Lord Nottingham was succeeded in 1696 by the
Earl of Bridgwater, (ref. 23) who in 1700 purchased the
freehold and the mortgage interest from John and
Joseph Rossington, Sir Francis Child and his comortgagees for £5200. (ref. 54)
John Egerton, fourth Earl of Bridgwater, Viscount Brackley, and Baron Ellesmere, had
succeeded to his father's titles in 1686. He was
descended from Thomas Egerton, the brilliant
lawyer and statesman, who had held office under
Elizabeth I and had been Lord Chancellor from
1603 to 1617. (ref. 38)
The fourth Earl's heirs at law continued to own
Cleveland House and its successor, Bridgwater
House, until 1948. On his death in March
1700/1, Cleveland House passed to his son Scroop,
the fifth Earl, who was created Marquis of
Brackley and Duke of Bridgwater in 1720. (ref. 25) The
Duke occupied the house until 1716 but in 1717
he removed to the larger of the two houses in the
former east wing. (Sir) Paul Methuen, diplomatist, lived in Cleveland House from 1717 to
1721, and was succeeded by Charles, Viscount
Townshend, statesman, from 1722 to 1730. (ref. 9) The
Duke of Bridgwater returned to the house in 1736
and lived there until his death in January 1744/5. (ref. 64)
His son, John, second Duke of Bridgwater, lived
only a short time after his father's death and was
succeeded in February 1747/8 by his brother
Francis. (ref. 25) John's mother, the Duchess of Bridgwater, appears in the ratebooks in 1746 and 1747
but a note in the volume for the latter year records
that 'the Dutchess went away' and refused to pay
two-thirds of the rates still owing for that year.
From then until 1757 the house was let by
the third Duke, one of the tenants being his
brother-in-law Frederick Calvert, Baron Baltimore, the rake (1754–6). (ref. 63) From 1757 till his
death in 1803 the Duke occupied the house
himself. (ref. 23)
Francis Egerton, third and last Duke of Bridgwater (1736–1803), devoted most of his time and
money in early life to the improvement of his
estates in Worsley and to the building of the canals
from Worsley to Manchester and from Manchester to Liverpool, (ref. 35) but in his latter years he turned
his attention to collecting pictures and restoring
Cleveland House. He purchased the Trumbull
collection in 1795 (ref. 65) and in the same year bought
No. 3 Cleveland Square, originally part of the
west wing of Cleveland House, from Lord Berwick, in order to have more room to display his
pictures. (ref. 66) Between 1795 and 1797, Cleveland
House was stripped down to its carcase, the front
rebuilt and the interior entirely remodelled
(Plate 233b, 233c). The architect employed for the
new work was James Lewis, and the cost was
£7000. The principal workmen employed by
Lewis were Clark and Munn, bricklayers;
Robert Wright, carpenter; David Thomas, plasterer; Martha Palmer, smith; Hugh Hunter,
mason; J. Bingle and Henry Wood, masons
(chimneypieces); and Mathew Bullock, carver. (ref. 67)
The Beauties of England and Wales (ref. 68) contains a
description by the Reverend Joseph Nightingale of
Cleveland House as altered and refronted by James
Lewis. 'This is a stone building; and is very plain,
but withal very chaste in its exterior.' Soane's lecture diagram (Plate 233b) shows quite clearly, however, that the entrance front in Cleveland Square
was of yellow brick, dressed rather sparingly with
stone. Lewis's design was a 'very chaste' essay in
the Grecian style, composed of a central face, three
windows wide, flanked by slightly recessed faces of
the same width. The chief decorative feature was
the Doric tetrastyle portico, like a miniature
temple front, forming the porch, its cornice tying
in with the plain bandcourse below the secondstorey windows. The window openings were plain
but well-proportioned, of moderate height in the
ground storey, tall in the second storey, and low
oblongs in the attic, all having stone sills and flat
gauged-brick arches. The front was finished with
a mutuled cornice and plain parapet of stone, the
last breaking against the triangular pediment
crowning the central face.
Nightingale's account continues: 'The western
end faces the Green Park. The drawing and
dining room windows project in bows. The house
consists of the following rooms: the new-gallery;
the drawing-room; the Poussin-room; the passageroom; the dining-room; the anti-room; the oldgallery; the small-room; the cabinet-room; the
library-rooms; Lady Stafford's apartments, &c.'
All of these rooms are clearly shown on the plan
in John Britton's Catalogue Raisonné, (ref. 69) where a
dark hachuring indicates the walls of the rooms
formed by Lewis (Plate 233c).
In 1798 an important addition was made to the
Duke's picture collection when he, together with
his nephew, Earl Gower, and the Earl of Carlisle,
purchased the Orléans collection for £43,000.
Michael Bryan acted as agent for the purchase
and, after the buyers had made their selection, the
residue of the collection was exhibited at Bryan's
rooms in Schomberg House, Pall Mall, and at the
Lyceum and sold for £41,000. (ref. 70)
It was perhaps as a result of this and other purchases made by the Duke that in 1799 James
Lewis was required to prepare estimates for
adapting existing rooms to make a new picture
gallery, (ref. 71) but it is not known whether these
alterations were carried out.
The Duke of Bridgwater died in 1803, unmarried, and on his death the Dukedom of
Bridgwater and the Marquisate of Brackley
became extinct. He left his house in Cleveland Row, and his pictures and plate, to his
nephew, with remainder to his nephew's second
son. (ref. 25)
George Granville Leveson-Gower, Earl
Gower, who was the third Duke's nephew,
became Marquis of Stafford in 1803, shortly after
his uncle's death. (ref. 25) He carried on the third Duke's
work of restoration at Cleveland House and had a
new gallery built, designed by Charles Heathcote
Tatham, to accommodate his own as well as his
uncle's pictures. The new gallery was opened to
the public in May 1806. (ref. 72)
In the plan in Britton's Catalogue Raisonné a
light hachuring indicates the walls in Tatham's
extension. It also gives a view of the 'new gallery'
designed by Tatham, but nothing, unfortunately,
of his 'principal staircase', which appears to have
been ingeniously arranged and must have had a
monumental effect. The engraving of the 'new
gallery' (Plate 233d) shows it as an oblong room
designed in a simple Roman manner, having at
each end a wide apse with its semi-dome coffered
in the style of those in the Temple of Venus and
Rome. The ceiling was formed with a flat soffit,
having two bands of square coffers, surrounding
an oblong lantern-light with fully glazed sides
and a flat ceiling, probably painted to represent a
sky divided into squares by a rope-moulding. In
this room can be seen, not only some of the
masterpieces in the Stafford collection, but the
two great console tables with marble tops supported
by clustered dolphins, later to be placed in the
saloon of Bridgwater House.
The Marquis also had new stable buildings
erected in 1805 (ref. 23) on the site of the former east
wing of Cleveland House, which had been
destroyed by fire in 1786 or 1787. (ref. 73) James Lewis
had charged the Duke for 'Designs for Building
on the vacant ground whatever His Grace
pleases', (ref. 74) and the Marquis's stables presumably
replaced or extended stables designed by Lewis
(see page 496).
The Marquis of Stafford was created Duke of
Sutherland in 1833 and died shortly afterwards. (ref. 25)
Cleveland House was inherited by his second son,
Francis, who demolished it in 1840 or 1841.
Cleveland Square
Cleveland Square or Court was the name given
to the courtyard in front of Cleveland House. On
the south it opened into Cleveland Row and on the
west and east it was enclosed by houses formed
out of the wings of Cleveland House.
West side
In 1691 the west wing was divided into three
houses facing east on to the courtyard; they first
appear in the ratebook for that year as '3 houses
not lett', but by 1692 all three were occupied. (ref. 23)
The most northerly house (Plate 233a), later
known as No. 3 Cleveland Square, was first occupied by the Countess of Scarsdale. (ref. 23) It was sold in
1700 by Sir Francis Child, his co-mortgagees, and
John and Joseph Rossington to the Rt. Hon.
Richard Hill, the diplomatist, who was then a
Commissioner of the Treasury, for £1800. (ref. 75)
Richard Hill lived in the house until his death in
1727 (ref. 23) and was succeeded by his nephew, Thomas
Harwood, who, on receiving a large share of his
uncle's fortune, adopted the name of Hill. (ref. 38) He
lived in the house until 1769, and was followed by
his son Noel (ref. 23) who in 1784 was created Baron
Berwick. (ref. 25) Lord Berwick occupied the house
until his death in 1789, (ref. 64) and it was sold by his
son, the second Baron Berwick, in 1795 to the
Duke of Bridgwater. (ref. 76) The Duke incorporated
the house with Cleveland House, and it was
demolished at the same time as the latter for the
erection of Bridgwater House.
The house in the middle of the west wing, later
known as No. 2 Cleveland Square, was first occupied by the Countess of Thanet. (ref. 23) It was sold in
1698 by Sir Francis Child, his co-mortgagees and
John and Joseph Rossington for £1370 to Sir
Edmund Turnor. (ref. 77) Occupants of note included
Robert Stewart, Viscount Castlereagh, later Marquis of Londonderry, 1795–1804, and the Hon.
Thomas Grenville, statesman and book-collector,
1806–38. (ref. 23) About 1839 (ref. 23) Lord Francis Egerton
purchased No. 2 Cleveland Square for £9300. (ref. 78) It
was demolished shortly afterwards and its site laid
into the new roadway (Cleveland Row) between
Selwyn House and Bridgwater House.
The southernmost house formed from the
west wing of Cleveland House, known as No. 1
Cleveland Square, was occupied from 1692 to
1694 by Sidney, Earl Godolphin, the statesman. (ref. 9)
In 1694 the house was sold by Sir Francis Child,
his co-mortgagees and the Rossingtons, to Colonel
(later Major-General) William Selwyn (ref. 79) who
lived there until 1701. (ref. 23) Later occupants included his son, Colonel John Selwyn, aide-decamp to the Duke of Marlborough, 1716–51;
Thomas Townshend, son of Viscount Townshend, teller of the exchequer, 1760–80; William Selwyn's grandson, George Augustus Selwyn, wit and politician, 1781–91; and Stephen
Rumbold Lushington, Indian official, 1813–
l822. (ref. 9)
The removal of No. 2 Cleveland Square for the
formation of Cleveland Row left No. 1 an island
site, and in 1845 Sir Charles Barry designed a new
flank wall for the house. (ref. 80) It was demolished in
1895 (ref. 23) and the present building, No. 15 Cleveland Row, known as Selwyn House, was built on
the site (Plate 244c). Despite its late date, Selwyn
House has an early Victorian appearance with its
simply designed fronts of yellow brick, dressed
with stucco.<The District Surveyor's Returns in 1895-6 record 'alterations' not rebuilding.> The west front, facing Green Park,
is four storeys high and three windows wide, those
of the first and second storeys being contained in a
segmental bow, finished with a simple entablature.
The east front is asymmetrical, with a wide
canted bay rising the full height of the front,
flanked on the south by a narrow face, one window wide. The projecting ground storey of this
front, and the doorway in the north front, are
more florid in character than the rest of the
exterior.
East side
Less is known about the history of the east
wing of Cleveland House than about the west. It
was not included in the sale of the main part of the
house to the Earl of Bridgwater in 1700, (ref. 54) but
was probably purchased by him not long afterwards. From the ratebooks it would appear that
the east wing was occupied from 1691 to 1696
by Sir Caesar Cranmore and shortly after this to
have been divided into four. (ref. 23) That part of the
wing which abutted north on the body of Cleveland House was used from 1698 to 1702 as a
royal wardrobe, for which the Countess, and then
the fifth Earl, of Bridgwater, were rated between
1704 and 1707.
In 1707 the whole wing was either refashioned
into two houses or pulled down and two new
houses erected on the site, facing Cleveland Row. (ref. 81)
The larger, easternmost, of these two houses was
occupied by Lady Egerton, 1716, the first Duke
of Bridgwater, 1717–36, and by his brother,
Henry Egerton, Bishop of Hereford, 1737–45. (ref. 23)
From 1760 to 1786 it was occupied as the
Secretary of State's office.
Both houses were destroyed by fire in 1786 or
1787 (ref. 73) and the site was left open until 1796
when two houses and stables, perhaps designed by
James Lewis (see page 495), were erected for the
Duke of Bridgwater. (ref. 23) The site is now covered
by part of the building Nos. 3 and 7 Cleveland
Row, and by the southern end of Little St. James's
Street (see page 510).
Bridgwater House (fn. a)
In 1833 Lord Francis Leveson-Gower, second
son of the first Duke of Sutherland, inherited
Bridgwater House and the income arising out of
the Bridgwater estates, and, under the terms of the
third Duke of Bridgwater's will, assumed the
name of Egerton. (ref. 78) He was created Earl of
Ellesmere and Viscount Brackley in 1846. (ref. 25)
Soon after he succeeded to the inheritance it
was found necessary to remove the roof of the 'old
Part' of Cleveland House, which for lack of any
contrary evidence may be identified as the original
fabric of Berkshire House, because it was in
danger of falling. On the removal of the old roof
it was discovered that the supporting walls were
too decayed to sustain a new one and it was decided to pull the whole of the old building down
and to erect a new house. It was also decided to
rebuild the newer part of the house, which had
been erected in 1806, at the same time, for the
better accommodation of the picture collection
and for the sake of architectural unity. (ref. 78) The
buildings were accordingly demolished in 1840
or 1841. (ref. 82)
The cost of the new house, as first designed by
(Sir) Charles Barry, was estimated at £68,696.
Of this sum £29,200, the valuation placed on the
old buildings by Sir Robert Smirke and Charles
Barry, was the personal liability of Lord Francis
Egerton who, in having the house pulled down,
had committed waste. As he had only a life
interest in the Bridgwater estates he had to reimburse the trustees' fund for this amount out of
his own pocket. To raise the remaining £39,496
the trustees were empowered to borrow by an Act
of Parliament of 1842. (ref. 78)
Barry's first design for the new house was exhibited in 1841 (ref. 83) but six years elapsed before it
was begun. The delay was caused by negotiations
for providing the new house with a more imposing
site and for improving the approaches. Briefly,
these improvements entailed the closing of Catherine Wheel Yard on the west side, so that the new
house fronted the Park; the demolition of No. 2
Cleveland Square so that the view of the front of
the house was unobstructed; and the demolition of
stables on the east side of Cleveland Square for a
line of communication between Little St. James's
Street and Cleveland Row intended as a substitute
for the closed portion of Catherine Wheel Yard.
An inquisition was held at Fenton's Hotel in St.
James's Street in July 1843 before the UnderSheriff of Middlesex to determine any damage or
prejudice which might be caused by the closing up
of Catherine Wheel Yard and the extension of
Little St. James's Street to Cleveland Row. The
jury's verdict was favourable and royal licence
was granted a year later in July 1844. (ref. 84) By 1847
Catherine Wheel Yard had been closed, No. 2
Cleveland Square had been pulled down, and
Little St. James's Street had been extended southward to meet Cleveland Row. In that year an
Act of Parliament enabled the Bridgwater trustees
to make some more adjustments with the Crown
over part of the northern side of Cleveland
Square. (ref. 85) The site thus made available to the
trustees had the Green Park on the west, the new
roadways, named Cleveland Row and Little St.
James's Street respectively, on the south and east,
and Lord Spencer's stables on the north.
While these improvements were being carried
out Barry was implementing his original design,
which had been commended for its 'grandeur and
stateliness'. (ref. 86) His diary for 1845 contains several
allusions to work for Bridgwater House. In
January of that year he was also engaged in
designing a new flank wall for Lord Sydney's
house (demolished and replaced by Selwyn House),
presumably to conceal the scar left by the removal
of the adjoining No. 2 Cleveland Square. (ref. 87)
In July 1845 Barry was asked to limit the expense of the new house to £30,000, (ref. 88) and in
November and December he was hard at work on
a new design, (ref. 89) assisted by his son Charles and
another pupil, Somers Clarke. Charles Barry,
junior, also kept a journal at this period. In
November he noted that 'I do not get on as fast as
I could wish—Clarke acts as a drag on me perhaps
a salutary one however.' (ref. 90) In January 1846 he
recorded that 'All in the office engaged in preparing drawings of the new Bridgewater House
. . . the House is now settled as to design and is
what Father calls Anglo Italian—or with Gothic
principles of design perpendicular lines prevailing,
with pure Italian profiles and interior decoration.
It will I think be very handsome and imposing
from its size—the gd. plan being 165 ft. by 122
and the height from ground line 64'.' (ref. 91) A few
days later he wrote 'This will I think be a very
grand mansion but one that will excite much
animadversion on account of its style as being far
from a pure one.' (ref. 92)
Digging for the foundations of the new house
began in the latter half of January 1846, (ref. 92) and
building began in July 1847, (ref. 93) by which time the
street improvements had been carried out. The
carcase of the house was finished by September
1848 (ref. 93) but the final plan of the interior was not
settled until 1849. (ref. 94) Although the picture gallery
was finished in time for the Great Exhibition and
opened to the public in May 1851, (ref. 95) the house
was not ready for occupation until the spring of
1854. (ref. 94) The builders of Bridgwater House were
Messrs. Baker, and among the craftsmen employed
for decorative work were C. H. Smith, principal
stone carver, (ref. 94) John Thomas, carver, and Richard
Westmacott, junior, who had designed a relief
of Venus instructing Cupid (1838). (ref. 96)
After the death of Lord Ellesmere in 1857 (ref. 25)
the second Lord Ellesmere called in a German
artist, (ref. 94) J. Götzenberger, (ref. 97) to decorate the saloon.
Barry, who had himself 'formed great designs' for
the saloon, could not approve of Götzenberger's
designs, which were very different from those
which he had in his own mind. (ref. 98) However,
Götzenberger's decorations were evidently confined to the spandrels of the lower arcade (see
page 501) and have since been covered over.
The garden of Bridgwater House, which includes a part of the former garden of Spencer
House, (ref. 99) was laid out by 1853, when a Crown
lease was granted to the estate trustees. (ref. 100)
Bridgwater House was damaged by bombing in
the war of 1939–45; it was sold in 1948 by the
fifth Earl of Ellesmere to the Legal and General
Assurance Society and let to the British Oxygen
Company. The house was restored by Robert
Atkinson and Partners in 1948–9.
Architectural description: the early 'Corinthian'
design and its 'Elizabethan' variant
Some of Barry's designs for Bridgwater House
have survived in tracings (the Murray tracings in
the R.I.B.A. library) made from the original
drawings. The tracings of the early design, presumably made in 1841, consist only of a principalfloor plan (Plate 234b) and a detail of the elevational treatment, but the layout of the principal
floor suggests that Barry probably intended to provide two entrances in the south front, one towards
the west serving the residence, and one towards the
east serving the galleries.
The west range of the principal floor is laid out
in a monumental style, with the state drawingrooms and dining-room placed respectively on the
west and east sides of a barrel-vaulted and top-lit
picture gallery. This private gallery is entered
through screens from the south vestibule at the
head of the great double staircase, and it extends
north to the library or breakfast-room in the northwest tower. From the library, a top-lit gallery of
five bays extends east, forming the north range
and ending with a square gallery that opens on its
south side to the great picture gallery in the east
range. On the west side of this large oblong
gallery is a series of five square top-lit cabinet
rooms, and at its south end is a smaller oblong
gallery, forming the end of the south-front range.
A two-bay link, with alcoves probably intended
for sculpture, leads west to the ante-gallery from
whence a domed and vaulted enclosed Italian stair
descends north, east and south to the gallery entrance in the ground storey. The rest of the southfront range and the south end of the west-front
range are taken up by the private apartments. The
internal court, a large oblong with service
staircases forming irregular projections into the
north-west and south-west angles, does not appear
to have been intended to serve as a monumental
feature of the design.
This plan, for a much larger building than was
eventually executed, clearly shows the west front
divided into nine equal bays by engaged columns,
with paired pilasters at each end, and the long
south front divided by pilasters into fifteen bays of
the same width as those in the west front, while
the recessed west face of the north range has two
windows. Only one of the Murray tracings can,
with certainty, be regarded as relating to this early
plan. It is the well-studied detail of two bays, No.
17 in folio C7, which shows a low ground storey
with a face of chamfer-jointed stonework, resting
on a battered plinth and having vermiculated
quoins and surrounds to the segmental-arched
windows. The ground storey forms a base for a
giant Corinthian order of plain-shafted columns
and pilasters, rising from pedestals, through two
storeys, and supporting an entablature that has a
pulvinated frieze and a modillioned cornice, a
lapse by Barry into the Ionic mode. Each intercolumniation contains one window of each storey,
that of the principal storey being dressed with a
moulded architrave, eared and shaped at the foot,
rising from a balustraded pedestal and finishing
with a pulvinated frieze and triangular pediment,
the wall face behind being of channel-jointed
stones. The chamber-storey window is square,
and has an eared architrave broken by a plain keystone and rising from a cornice-sill resting on consoles. The main entablature cornice is dressed
with tiles and above it rises a tall balustrade,
broken by pedestals surmounted by tall-necked
urns.
Although this detail relates perfectly to the
early plan, it also relates to a small-scaled drawing,
No. 41 in volume one of Barry's sketches, which
is an elevation for a colonnaded front of seventeen
bays, the five middle bays opening to a recessed
wall face. This elevation, two bays longer than
the south front of the early plan, may be an even
earlier design for Bridgwater House. In the same
volume is a design for the west front (Plate 234a),
probably later than the early plan, using the
Corinthian order to dress the two-storeyed upper
stage with six bays divided by columns and each
end bay flanked by paired pilasters. The groundstorey windows are square, and have moulded
architraves broken by keystones and set in a face
of rusticated and vermiculated stonework. The
face of the upper stage is channel-jointed, the
Corinthian capitals are linked by a frieze of garlanded masks, and the entablature has a flat plain
frieze. The recessed tower at the north end has a
rusticated and vermiculated ground storey, below
a lofty face containing a single window for the
principal storey, elaborately dressed with paired
rusticated pilasters and a shell-tympanum within a
rusticated arch, and a range of three oblong windows below the main entablature. The top stage
is a belvedere, with three tall windows separated by
columns and flanked by panelled piers which support a deep frieze of panels carved with figure
subjects, and a Vignolesque bracketed entablature,
the crowning balustrade being similar to that of the
west front.
Before considering the penultimate design, it is
necessary to comment on the 'Elizabethan'
elevations (Plate 235) designed, probably, as an
alternative to the Corinthian exterior just described. Barry, perhaps inspired by Robert Smithson's Wollaton, dresses each of the three storeys
with an order, using Doric pilasters with banded
shafts throughout, and finishes each front with a
crested parapet broken above the pilasters by
pedestals with obelisks. The west front has a central face of five bays with single pilasters, between
pavilions with bay windows flanked by paired
pilasters, also used to decorate the chimney-stacks
that flank the elaborate cresting above each bay
window. The three middle bays of the south
front are re-spaced—narrow, wide, and narrow—
to form a 'gate-house' feature with two turrets
rising above the narrow bays. It should be noted
that this front shows a central entrance, which is
not easily related to the principal-storey arrangement of the early plan.
The 'penultimate' design and its development into
the final design
The building of Bridgwater House was actually
begun in July 1847 to plans which are here
described, for convenience of reference, as the
'penultimate' design. This is well represented by
the tracings in the Murray collection (Plate 236),
and is for an oblong building, irregular on the
north and east sides, with ranges of fairly uniform
width surrounding an oblong court which, in the
basement and ground storey, is equally divided into
east and west courts by the first flight of the Italian
staircase. The entrance vestibule, in the middle of
the south-front range, has a screen of columns on
its east side opening to the porter's hall, and a
service stair on the west. The vestibule leads to
the inner hall, a square divided by four columns to
form a central space surrounded with 'aisles', its
east and west sides opening to corridors of domed
compartments, these returning along the east and
west sides of the court. The west corridor has
doors opening first to Lord Ellesmere's room,
next Lady Ellesmere's room and then a large
oblong drawing-room, all overlooking Green
Park. At the end is an ante-room serving the
square drawing-room on the west and the diningroom on the east, the last having a bay window
projecting from the north side. The east corridor
serves first the suite of rooms in the south range,
then passes the upper part of the kitchen on the
east, and ends with a door to Lord and Lady
Ellesmere's private suite in the north range.
To return to the inner hall, the north aisle
projects into the central court and opens to the
Italian staircase, walled, vaulted and domed, its
first flight rising north to a half-landing, then
branching east and west to arrive at each end of the
principal-storey corridor. This is formed as a
series of square compartments, domed with oculusskylights, and extends along the west, south and east
sides of the internal court. A door at the west end
of the south corridor opens to an ante-room
serving the oblong state dining-room in the southwest angle, and the state drawing-room on the
west front. At the north end of the west corridor
is a door opening to the 'west loggia' of the picture
gallery, a great oblong room in the north range
with an 'east loggia' to balance the west. In the
north-west angle is the 'anti-gallery' or drawingroom, with doors opening to the state drawingroom and to the 'west loggia' of the gallery. The
south-east angle of the principal storey contains
suites of private rooms, and a simple arrangement
of bedrooms and dressing-rooms fills the L-shaped
chamber storey over the west and south ranges.
Above the kitchen in the east range are three floors
of rooms, mostly for servants, and further staff
accommodation is provided above the stables
flanking the service court adjoining the house on
the east.
By persuading Lord Ellesmere to agree to an
additional expenditure of £4616 13s. 9d., Barry
was able to make the changes, few but far-reaching
in their effects, which produced the final design
(Plate 237). (ref. 94) The major change was to be
brought about by roofing the central court to form
the great two-storeyed hall, or saloon, surrounded
by arcades opening to the ground-floor and principal-storey corridors. The inner hall was omitted
and the vestibule now opened through a small ante
into the unbroken south corridor. The Italian
staircase was moved to the east range, over the
kitchen, opening out of the middle bay of the
ground-floor corridor and rising east, south, and
west to land at the south-east corner of the principal-storey corridor. This was now continued
across the north side of the saloon, taking the space
allotted for the east and west branching flights of
the original staircase. The saloon, which is the
finest feature of Bridgwater House, is therefore an
afterthought, all the more curious when it is
remembered that the Reform Club saloon, which
it so closely parallels, was a similar afterthought,
taking in Barry's plans of 1838 the place of the
cortile in his competition design.
Exterior
Although more richly ornamented and certainly
less pure in style than the Travellers' and Reform
club-houses, there is nothing in the Italianate
exterior of Bridgwater House that can have called
forth the observation of Charles Barry, junior,
already quoted, that the style is 'what Father calls
Anglo Italian—or with Gothic principles of design, perpendicular lines prevailing'. This suggests that the 'penultimate' plans were originally
to be clothed with 'Elizabethan' elevations
(probably a condensed version of the large earlier
design) although the Murray tracings clearly
indicate the executed design (Plate 236).
The north and east elevations, being of secondary importance, are somewhat irregular in their
design and are cement-faced with stone dressings.
The entrance front (south) and the Green Park
front (west), with their north and east end returns,
are uniformly treated and faced with Portland
stone (Plate 238). Their composition is astylar,
the ground storey having a rusticated face with
simply treated windows, the lofty principal storey
being of fine ashlar with elaborately dressed windows, and the attic or chamber storey forming a
frieze-like band of windows between panelled
piers below the splendid cornicione and crowning
balustrade. The south front has nine widely
spaced windows in each storey, and a central porch,
but the west front is composed of a central face
with five windows, less widely spaced than those
in the south front, flanked by slightly projecting
pavilions with a three-light window in each storey.
The angles of these pavilions and of the south
front are emphasized with wide straight quoins of
chamfer-jointed stones with vermiculated faces
and plain square arrises. The ground storey has a
pedestal with a die of vermiculated stones, and is
built in regular courses of chamfer-jointed smooth
stones, the windows having recessed plain margins
and voussoired flat arches with slightly projecting
keystones. A key-fret band forms a narrow frieze
below the cornice which finishes the ground storey
and underlies the principal-storey pedestal. This
has a high plinth and a low die, ornamented with
raised plain panels and broken by the blind balustrades of the windows. Each tall window opening
is dressed with a moulded architrave, eared at the
head and flanked by sequin-ornamented pilasterstrips, with garlanded scroll-consoles supporting a
dentilled cornice and a segmental pediment. Its
tympanum is carved with flowers and foliage
scrolls flanking a cartouche bearing a monogram
of interlaced E's, and the frieze below is decorated
with a bay-leaf garland and a tablet inscribed 'SIC
DONEC'. The three-light window in each of the
west front pavilions has a balustraded balcony, and
the narrow side lights are finished with straight
entablatures, the middle light having a segmental
pediment like the rest of the windows in this
storey. A moulded stringcourse with a diagonalribbon guilloche band finishes the principal storey
and underlines the attic, where the square windows
have moulded architraves, their jambs inset and
dressed with husk pendants. The piers between
the windows are decorated with raised-and-fielded
panels in ovolo-moulded frames. The cornicione,
which is in Vignola's style, has a moulded architrave and a frieze divided into metopes, each
containing a flower carved in a square panel, by
cyma-reversa brackets with plain profiles and fluted
faces. Plain bracket-modillions support the corona
of the cornice, and its cymatium is decorated with
dolphin-head stops, placed over each alternate
bracket and modillion. The crowning balustrade
is divided into bays by panelled pedestals supporting
ovoid urns, broken by vermiculated blocks and
finished with pineapples. At each end of the south
front, and flanking each west-front pavilion, rise
chimney-stacks of Jacobean monumentality, each
face being decorated with tall niches, two in the
wide north and south faces and one in the east and
west, recessed between Doric pilasters, their shafts
broken by vermiculated blocks and supporting
bracketed entablatures.
The paved terrace on the west front and the
basement areas on the south are bounded by stone
balustrades, that to the terrace being broken in
front of each end pavilion by the wide steps that
descend to the garden. The south-front area
balustrades sweep inwards with shallow segmental
curves, between circular altar-like pedestals raised
high on octagonal bases, to a wide break in the
middle of which stands the entrance porch (Plate
239b). This has a narrow trabeated opening in
each return face and a wide arch in front, flanked by
engaged Doric columns, one on each face and one
on the angle. These columns stand on pedestals
with raised vermiculated panels on their dies, and
have plain shafts broken by vermiculated bands.
The moulded impost of the arch reappears as a
cornice over the side openings, and its moulded
archivolt is broken by vermiculated voussoirs and
a scrolled keystone carved with a lion holding a
spearhead. The entablature frieze is carved on
each return face with a key-fret continuing that of
the ground-storey stringcourse, but the front face
bears the inscription 'RESTITVTA ANNO DOMINI
MDCCCXLIX'. The corona of the cornice, except
for the shallow section above each side opening,
projects boldly on mutules, and the balustrade
above extends between paired pedestals centred
over the columns.
Interior
The front door opens through a modern
draught-lobby into the entrance vestibule (Plate
241a), which closely resembles that of the Travellers' Club, being a deep oblong barrel-vaulted hall
with a Doric colonnade of three bays, here on the
east side, opening to the porter's hall which is
almost square and has a flat ceiling. The columns,
and the respondent pilasters on the west wall,
stand on black marble plinths and have moulded
bases of white marble, plain shafts of Sienamarbled scagliola, and plaster capitals with eggand-dart enrichment on the echinus. They support an architrave which is continued round all
the wall faces of the vestibule and forms an impost
for the archivolt of the plain tympanum over the
doorway in each end wall. Enriched astragals
divide the barrel-vault into six rings of five square
coffers, with plain margins and enriched sunk
mouldings. The porter's hall ceiling is also
patterned with square coffers, but here the margins
are not divided by astragals and the recessed
mouldings are not enriched. The wall faces are
plain throughout, but in the middle of the east
wall of the porter's hall is a chimneypiece of simple
classical design, probably of stone but now marbled
white and Siena.
A narrow link, with doors opening east and
west to service stairs, leads north from the vestibule into the middle compartment of the corridor
on the south side of the saloon, or central hall.
The saloon of Bridgwater House (Plate 242)
resembles a roofed-in Italian cortile even more
closely than does the earlier saloon of the Reform
Club, where the central space is surrounded by
elegant superimposed colonnades. Here the
oblong central space is enclosed by substantial
walls, presumably intended for exterior walls,
pierced by the superimposed arcades which open
to the corridors of the ground and principal storeys.
The lower arcade is simply treated, the wide piers
being faced with green-marbled scagliola and
finished with moulded imposts of peach-coloured
marble, which is also used for the moulded archivolts of the round arches. The plain spandrels are
now painted in imitation of Siena marble, once
more concealing the stiff neo-classical paintings of
figures representing the Muses and the Virtues
(Plate 242), most probably the paintings by
Götzenberger to which Barry, with good reason,
objected. The entablature of the lower arcade is
probably of plasterwork, painted and gilded, with
a frieze of guilloche-ornamented panels between
groups of four fluted console-brackets, placed
above each pier and supporting the enriched unbroken cornice. The upper arcade, quite properly,
is more elegant and elaborate than the lower, with
paired Corinthian pilasters on each pier, standing
on pedestals and rising through the moulded impost
to support the main entablature. Great use is
made of marble and marbled scagliola, the arched
openings having open balustrades of alabaster,
resting on a green plinth between pedestal dies of
red porphyry, and the fluted pilaster-shafts are
white against the Siena facing of the piers. The
enriched impost and archivolts are of plaster, greywhite and gilt, and the spandrels are painted a soft
grey. Between the crown of each arch and the
Corinthian entablature is a scrolled keyblock
modelled with a mask, female and bearded male
appearing alternately. The highly enriched
entablature projects slightly above each pair of
pilasters, and here the frieze has the Ellesmere
cypher in a panel between paterae, breaking the
rich foliated Vitruvian scroll. The cornice has
dentils and scroll-modillions, and flowers are set
in the panels of the corona soffit, but the cymatium
is plain.
Above the entablature rises the great cove of the
ceiling, each face being divided into bays corresponding with the arcades, and each bay containing
a large panel of glazing set in a trellised framework.
The moulded frames of the panels are partly overlaid by the high-relief plasterwork on the wide
ribs, a tour de force of Baroque decoration by an
artist<C. S. Kelsey, 1862> who drew from Italian and South German
sources, whose figures must surely owe something
to Bernini's marble groups in the Villa Borghese.
This decoration begins with a balustrade extending between festooned pedestals, placed above the
breaks in the Corinthian entablature. Standing
tiptoe on these pedestals, or flying above them, are
lightly veiled nymphs with outspread wings,
attended by erotes and engaged in the pursuits and
pastimes of country life. Along the head of the
cove extends a heavy garland of fruits and flowers,
suspended from large flowers over the ribs and
held in festoons by pairs of erotes above each of the
large glazed panels. The flat ceiling has a wide
border formed of L-shaped panels at each end,
filled with trophies of the chase, and long panels on
each side, filled with musical instruments, all on a
groundwork of oak branches. Between these
panels, the guilloche-ribs curve to encircle large
roundels containing high-relief portraits of gods
and goddesses. The central part of the ceiling is
divided by transverse guilloche-ribs into three
square panels, each sunk within an enriched
modillioned cornice and containing a laylight in
the form of a trellis-patterned saucer-dome,
surrounded by a highly enriched entablature.
The ground- and principal-storey corridors
have the effect of loggias opening to the saloon,
and each is divided into a sequence of square compartments by pilasters linked by arched soffits,
every compartment being ceiled with a saucerdome on pendentives. The walls and piers are
simply treated but the surfaces of the domes, pendentives and soffits are divided by enriched mouldings into panels and borders which are painted
with a great variety of arabesques, grotesques and
figure medallions in a style derived from the
cinquecento decorations of the Villa Madama and
Raphael's loggia in the Vatican. The arabesques
are reasonably faithful to the sources, but Victorian sentimentality is very evident in much of
the decoration, such as the dome in the upper
corridor where the surface is painted to represent
an Italian Renaissance arcade with cupids on
swings in the garlanded openings, and roses and
hollyhocks rising against the sky.
The walls and pilasters of the ground-storey
corridor are lined with marbled scagliola, the
pilasters are green, the jambs of the arches red
porphyry, and the wall faces red porphyry with
large panels of grey porphyry bordered with a fret
design in gold, serpentine and block, imitating
South Italian mosaic. Set into the panel of each
end bay of the west corridor wall are small
reliefs of classical subjects, carved in white marble
by Richard Westmacott, junior, and as the other
panels have plaster centres, now painted to resemble the porphyry, it seems evident that similar
reliefs were intended for all the bays. The groundstorey corridor does not extend behind the north
side of the saloon and the arches there are recesses
filled with mirror-glass, protected at the base by
ornamental grilles. The dolphin console-tables,
from the 'new gallery' in Cleveland House, were
placed in the second and fourth arches. In the
principal-storey corridor (Plate 241b), a warm grey
marbled scagliola is used to face the piers, but the
wall surfaces generally are now plain.
The Italian staircase is a perfected and more
richly decorated version of that in the Reform
Club (Plate 240). Here the walls are lined with
scagliola in a scheme of grey panels and red
porphyry borders between green pilasters, with
panel-mouldings and a finishing cornice of peachcoloured marble. The barrel-vaulted ceiling over
each flight is pitched at a different angle to the
rise of the stair, so that the five coffers of each ring
are not distorted but range from the lozenge to the
square. All have gilt flowers and foliage arabesques
on a malachite-green ground within enriched
frames, and the ribs are decorated with small
flowers. The soffits of the arches linking the
pilasters are panelled and painted with grotesques,
and the saucer-domes over the landings are
coffered with diminishing rings of octagons,
hexagons and squares, above a rich modillioned
cornice and pendentives that are painted with
arabesques on a gold ground, with borders imitating mosaic.
After the magnificence of the saloon, the
ground-storey rooms seem very austere, probably
more so now that they lack the original furnishings
and have been divided. The partitions, however,
have been designed with regard to the rooms they
divide, and have glazed upper parts to allow each
ceiling to be seen as a whole.
The large south-west room, Lord Ellesmere's
room, was fitted as a library and lined with high
bookcases. These are of plain design, in wood
originally grained, the projecting dado-section
having had doors fitted with wire-mesh. The tall
upper section has glazed doors with narrow giltwood frames, and is finished with a plain frieze
and cornice. The wall faces above are finished
with a reduced entablature, and a plain cove rises
to the flat ceiling where raised mouldings form
four L-shaped panels round a recessed oblong
panel. Between the two windows in the south
wall is the fireplace, with a fine chimneypiece of
grey marble, decorated in the Empire style with
gilt-metal mounts—an ivy-wreathed thyrsus on
each pilaster-jamb, and foliage-tailed griffins
between three masks on the frieze.
The three other rooms on the west front are
respectively a square, an oblong, and a square in
plan. All are as simply decorated as the library,
each with plain wall faces between the pedestal
and cornice, and a plain cove rising to a flat ceiling
where flush panels in moulded frames surround a
recessed central panel, an octagon in the south
room and circles in the others. The south room
retains its white marble chimneypiece, a neoclassical example with a narrow cornice-shelf
resting on female terms, the frieze being ornamented with acanthus scrolls. The doors in this
suite are generally of plain design, in waxed oak.
By contrast with the simplicity of the private
rooms on the ground storey, the utmost splendour
prevails throughout the suite of state rooms at the
west end of the principal storey. Here, however,
Italian cinquecento taste generally gives place to
French dix-huitième in magnificent decorations
that show Barry's freedom from stylistic prejudice.
The state dining-room (Plate 243a) in the southwest angle has an oblong plan, with a screen of
widely spaced Corinthian columns across the west
end to form a shallow bay and frame the three-light
window. There are two small service doors in
the east end wall, three windows evenly spaced in
the south wall, and the north wall has the fireplace
in the centre and, on the left, the great two-leaf
door opening to the ante-room. The walls are
furnished with a panelled pedestal, painted white
with its mouldings enriched and gilded, and the
face above is hung with red and gold embossed
leather (lincrusta). The monumental chimneypiece is of red marble, probably scagliola, with
gilt metal ornaments. A leaf-garland moulding
surrounds the opening; garlanded terms with lion
heads support the shelf, which has a gadrooned
edge imitating drapery, and the panelled frieze is
overlaid by a Baroque cartouche bearing the
Ellesmere cypher below a coronet. The doors,
each with three panels—a tall oblong with squares
above and below—are white with gold enrichments, and the enriched architrave of the great
doorway is finished with a festooned superporte.
The two Corinthian columns and the antae of the
screen have plain pedestals and moulded bases of
white marble, fluted and cabled shafts of red
marble, and gilt capitals. They support an enriched architrave and a frieze that is divided into
sections by scrolled brackets, fronted with crested
female masks and garlands, each section containing
a panel with incurved corners, its surface decorated with a winged figure with a bifurcated tail of
foliage scrollwork. This frieze continues all
round the room and the brackets serve to support
the guilloche-ornamented ribs that frame the
ceiling and divide it into compartments, three large
oblongs each with two narrow oblongs on its north
and south sides. The large compartments are
recessed with rich modillioned cornices and are
decorated with panels of gilded trellis within plain
margins. The smaller compartments are less
deeply recessed but are also decorated with trelliswork. The whole of this plasterwork is delicately
coloured, the ornaments being in light and dark
gilding on grounds of parchment and eau-de-nil.
The ante-room of the state suite (Plate 243c) is
a narrow oblong in plan, with a window in its west
wall and a great door of two leaves placed centrally
in each other wall. The south doorway leads to
the dining-room just described, and the north
doorway opens to the state drawing-room (Plates
243b, 244a), now divided into equal parts by a
well-designed transverse screen, but still visibly a
large oblong room with four windows in its west
wall and a great doorway in each end wall. The
ante-room and the state drawing-room are uniform
in their decoration, the walls having a low pedestal
with a die of long panels, all painted white with
the enriched mouldings gilt, and the face above is
hung with a figured flock-paper in tones of mossy
green. The doors are formed with three panels,
coloured parchment with rich ornamentation in
white on gold, the tall panels containing ovals with
the Ellesmere cypher. The enriched architraves
have a wide garlanded band, and the great twoleaf doors in the end walls are finished with
foliated coved cornices, crested with a garlanded
cartouche flanked by putti and surmounted with
a coronet. The windows have the same enriched
architraves as the doors, and the walls are finished
with an entablature composed of an enriched
architrave, a frieze boldly modelled with a festooned garland suspended from ribbon-bows and
held up by winged putti, and a dentilled cornice
that merges into the wide guilloche-ornamented
ribs framing the ceiling and dividing it transversely
into four bays, each containing three compartments—a square flanked by oblongs. These
compartments are recessed with rich modillioned
cornice borders and their flat surfaces are divided
by plain margins into a simple geometrical pattern
of panels, all filled with elaborately foliated
arabesques in low relief. Most of the enriched
mouldings and the arabesque ornaments are in two
tones of gilding on grounds of parchment, white or
eau-de-nil, but the garlands and putti of the frieze
are in white on a celadon-green ground. In the
south part of the room is a splendid chimneypiece
carved in white marble which, if not re-used from
old Cleveland House, shows a return to the style of
Scheemakers and the taste of mid eighteenthcentury England, with its opening framed by a
classical architrave, and a dentilled cornice-shelf
broken forward at each end to rest on the head of a
female figure, clothed in filmy draperies, with one
arm upraised to hold a garland festooned across the
central tablet of the frieze.
The north-west drawing-room is square in
plan, having a three-light window in the west
wall, the fireplace central in the north, and doors
in the east and south sides. The long-panelled
pedestal and mossy-green flock-paper of the state
drawing-room are repeated here, but the walls are
finished with a highly enriched cornice, below a
deep quadrant cove with each face designed as a
panel of trelliswork overlaying vertical branches
and sprays of formal foliage. More elaborate and
boldly modelled foliage branches and scrolls rise
from acanthus leaves in each angle. The flat
ceiling is bordered with a band of oak-leaf branch
which also encloses a large circle. Within this is a
recessed circular panel surrounded by smaller
panels, four circles with foliage-bosses between
long panels with segmental sides, each modelled
with a grotesque foliage mask flanked by the
foliated scroll-tails of griffins. The central
panel has a wreathed border-moulding, next a
cove with small palm leaves, and the interior is
filled with foliated branches with flower-ended
scrolls, radiating from an acanthus-boss. The
doors, architraves, and the white marble chimneypiece are almost identical with those in the state
drawing-room (Plate 244b).
The east doorway of the square drawing-room
originally opened to the 'west loggia' of the picture
gallery, which suffered considerable war-damage
and has been rebuilt with three floors of offices in
its great height.
The Bridgwater House gallery lacked the
magnificence of its counterpart in Lancaster
House, but was nevertheless a noble setting for the
great collection it was designed to house. A lofty
room, oblong in plan, its long north and south side
walls provided unbroken fields for the exhibition
of pictures, but at each end was a Corinthian
screen, opening to a shallow bay or 'loggia'. Each
screen was composed of two columns, spaced to
form one wide and two narrow intercolumniations
between two engaged square-shafted columns, all
having pedestals, bases, and fluted-and-cabled
shafts of white-marbled scagliola, and gilded
capitals. The entablature, with a painted frieze
and an enriched cornice with dentils and modillions, was continued round the room, below the
cove surrounding the ceiling, a cove panelled with
clerestory lights. The outer roof of the gallery
originally followed the contour of the cast-iron
roof trusses, which were formed as elliptical bows
with a horizontal tie to strengthen them and support the flat ceiling above the cove.
The 'east loggia' of the picture gallery had two
doorways, that in the south side opening to the
ante-room off the north-east angle of the saloon
corridor, and that in the north wall leading to the
staircase by which the general public were admitted to the gallery.
At the east end of the south range is a suite
of rooms with several interesting features. The
bedroom in the south-east angle has a corner
chimneypiece of white marble, with a simple
bolection-moulded surround, and the walls are
finished with a heavy dentilled cornice surrounding a ceiling where raised mouldings frame a
circular panel and four spandrel panels. The next
room has a simple cornice and a plain cove rising
to a flat ceiling with mouldings framing flush
panels, an octagon between two narrow oblongs.
The chimneypiece of white marble is charmingly
carved, the jambs with nymphs standing in
scallop-shells, holding draperies behind them and
supporting the cornice-shelf, and the frieze is
decorated with water-flowers between scallopshells. The small room adjoining on the west has
a dentilled cornice and, rather surprisingly, a
simple version of an Inigo Jones ceiling, with ribs
forming a central oval surrounded by squares and
oblongs.
South Side
Nos. 8–12 (consec.) Cleveland Row
Soon after 1668 the Duchess of Cleveland
appropriated, without any lease or conveyance
from the Crown, that part of the old highway on
which Nos. 8–12 Cleveland Row and the eastern
part of Stornoway House now stand (G on fig. 81).
On this site, which measured 140 feet by 49 feet,
and which included the present roadway she built
'a fair stable' with a yard 'walled in for dung'. (ref. 42)
This property was later conveyed by the Crown
to her son, the Duke of Grafton, in 1690 (ref. 101) and
together with the other five pieces of Crown land
formerly held by the Duchess was sold in 1693 to
the group of speculators who had obtained control
of the Cleveland House estate. (ref. 58) The stables
were demolished and by 1699 three houses had
been built on part of the site of the present Nos.
8–12. Three more houses must have been built
shortly afterwards for a deed of 1700 (ref. 54) mentions
'six messuages newly built' on this site. (fn. b)
In 1762 the freehold of all six houses was in the
possession of Elizabeth Rogers, spinster, and they
were then said to have been formerly in the tenure
or occupation of the Countess of Thanet, George
Lane, John Shorter, Hugh Jones and Thomas
Sisham. (ref. 102) Of these only John Shorter appears in
the ratebooks; he occupied No. 11 from 1723 to
1748.
In the eighteenth century Nos. 8–12 Cleveland
Row do not appear to have been occupied by persons of note; Sir Henry Sheeres, military engineer,
who lived at No. 12 in 1707, and General Lord
John Murray, Colonel of the Black Watch from
1745 until his death in 1787 and for many years
M.P. for Perth, who from lived 1734 to 1747 in
the same house, are exceptions. (ref. 9) The rateable
value of all six houses was low, only that of the
easternmost exceeding twenty-six pounds per
annum; in the early 1780's Nos. 10 and 11 were
unoccupied for several years.
From 1798 to 1807 William Denison lived in
the western portion of the house now numbered 8;
he may have been the millionaire and M.P. of
that name. (ref. 9) Major-General Sir George Madden,
who served with distinction with the Portuguese
army during the Peninsular War, is listed in the
ratebooks as the occupant of No. 9 from 1814 to
1823, and Major-General Sir John Hamilton,
who was Inspector General of the Portuguese
army, appears as the occupant of No. 12 from
1810 until 1822. (ref. 9) Throughout the greater part
of the second half of the nineteenth century No. 9
was used as a lodging-house.
It may be presumed that the houses in this
terrace were originally uniform in their modest
size, their simple interior arrangements, and their
plain fronts, except that they were built in pairs
with mirrored plans and the end house, now part
of No. 8, was designed to face east (Plate 230).
Discounting the later additions and alterations,
they all have cellars or basements and at least three
floors of two rooms, with garrets in the roof. The
brick fronts have had a coat of Regency stucco,
jointed to resemble masonry and painted, and the
second-storey windows have been lengthened and
furnished with elegant iron balconies, but the
storey-bandcourses and the regular pattern of three
windows to each upper floor attest to the late
seventeenth-century building date. A curious
feature of all but one house is the transformation of
the middle second-storey window into a shallow bay
window, the charming modern example at No. 10
being segmental in plan and having a semi-domed
roof. In every house the ground storey is coursed
with channel-jointing and the east-facing front of
No. 8 is quoined in all of its four storeys, which are
five windows wide except for the second storey
where there are two large three-light windows
behind a trellised verandah of three bays. The
windows in the two upper storeys of this front are
framed with moulded architraves and furnished
with Gothic window-guards, and above the
crowning dentilled cornice is a balustrade, broken
by three tall architrave-framed dormers.
What appears to be the most interesting and
least altered interior is that of No. 9 (Plate 231),
where the second- and third-storey rooms are
panelled in pine, simply finished in the back rooms
but with some carved enrichments in the front
room of the second storey. The staircase is of a
simple dog-leg pattern with closed strings, turned
balusters and moulded handrails housed into square
newels. The ground-storey rooms have been
remodelled, perhaps in the early nineteenth century, and united by substituting for the dividing
wall a screen of fluted Ionic columns.
Warwick House, St. James's Stable Yard, and Stornoway House,
Cleveland Row
Stornoway House stands upon the site of the
old highway which led from Charing Cross to
Hyde Park. The eastern half of the site of the
house formed, with the site of Nos. 8–12 Cleveland Row, part of the ground granted by the
Crown in fee to Henry Duke of Grafton in 1690
(G on fig. 81). At that date the boundary of the
Green Park stood further east than it does now and
the ground on which the western part of Stornoway House was later built appears to have been incorporated into the park when the highway was
stopped up in 1668; this part of the site of the
house has therefore always been in the possession
of the Crown. At the end of the nineteenth century the freehold of the eastern part of the house
was re-acquired for the Crown by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. The boundary of
the parish of St. James runs through the middle
of the house, the western part of which, and all of
Warwick House, stands in the parish of St. Martin
in the Fields. The history of the two houses is
closely intertwined and both have therefore for the
sake of convenience been included in the present
volume.
Warwick House
Immediately to the south of the site of Warwick
House stood the Queen's Library, erected by
William Kent for Queen Caroline in 1737. (ref. 3)
Rocque's map shows that this building projected
further west into the park than the adjoining
buildings to the north. The latter consisted of a
number of small old buildings (including some
encroachments on the park) which in 1769 were
acquired by Dame Mary Broughton Delves, who
in that year married Henry Errington (ref. 103) of
Sandhoe, Northumberland, where he owned extensive lands. (ref. 104) In October 1769 Henry and
Mary Errington petitioned the Crown for an
extension of their lease, their intention being 'to
make improvements by pulling down the said old
Buildings and erecting some Buildings which will
be an Improvement to His Majesty's estate'.
They also sought permission to advance their
intended buildings some thirteen feet into the park
to within ten feet of the western front of the
Queen's Library. (ref. 105)

Figure 82:
Warwick House, Stable Yard, and Stornoway House, Cleveland Row, ground-floor plan of 1798.
Re-drawn from a plan in the Public Record Office
In his report on this petition Peter Burrell, the
Surveyor General, raised no objection to the
extension of the Erringtons' leasehold interest in
the existing buildings. On the advancement of the
building line into the park, however, he pointed
out that the proposal would 'have no disagreeable
Effect' so long as the Library (which projected
ten feet further) existed; 'But . . . I should ill
discharge my Duty . . . if I did not take Notice of
the great objection to permit any Encroachments
in the green Park and in the View of a Palace
where their Majestys have fix'd their favourite
Residence. This Grant, if carryed into Execution, may possibly draw on his Majesty many
more applications, particularly from the End of
this Ground to Lord Spencer's. I must therefore
submit how far this case may be distinguish'd from
all others; Or whether the precedent may not be
attended with future Inconvenience.' (ref. 105)
Despite this wise warning, which was borne
out at the end of the eighteenth century by the
general advancement of the gardens of the houses
facing the park (see page 540), the Erringtons
were granted a new lease and were permitted to
advance their building line. (ref. 106) In 1770–1 the
house now known as Warwick House was erected
for them on the southern part of the ground; the
architect was Sir William Chambers (fig. 82).
In May 1770 Chambers wrote to Errington
that he was 'willing to contract with you for the
building . . . for four thousand pounds exclusive of
the three Chimney pieces for the best rooms, three
ceilings for the same and any other extrordinary
enrichments you may Choose to Introduce; all
which I have valued at about four hundred pounds
more'. The erection of the house involved slight
damage to an adjoining house in Cleveland Row,
and the contrivance of the entrance, which was
from Stable Yard, proved troublesome; alterations
had to be made to the adjoining house there,
which was occupied by Dr. Morgan and who,
according to Chambers, wished 'to have a house
built for him to make amends for the inconveniency he has been put to'. (ref. 107)
Errington appears to have wished to have
chimneypieces of a particular pattern, but designed
by Chambers. The latter stated that 'I cannot
give designs for them without breaking through
an establish'd rule: they are inventions of Mr.
Payne's [James Paine, the architect] and he must
be applyd to for them, and as I have no connections with him myself I must entreat the favour of
you to make Application. He lives in Salisbury
Street in the Strand and will not only furnish you
with the designs but likewise with the Chimney
pieces and keeps Statuary for the purpose and
works I believe, as well and upon as easy terms as
any other Tradesman.' Ultimately the chimneypieces appear to have been supplied to Chambers's
designs by John Walsh, for another undated letter
from Chambers states that 'I believe Mr. Walshe's
proposals about the Chimney piece are reasonable,
and if he will send me the size of the tablet I will
make a drawing for it. In a day or two I shall
have the drawings done for your other two Chimney Pieces and I will then send for Mr. Wash [sic]
to hear his proposals. I think he will execute
them very well.' (ref. 108)
Chambers's correspondence also refers to a
painted ceiling. On 29 August 1771 he wrote to
Errington that 'I have 6 Pictures by me for your
Ceiling which are copys of Things found at
Herculan. It will require 7 more which I will
get done for you if you please on reasonable
Terms.' In the following month he wrote that
he would 'immediately order the other paintings
for your Ceiling'. (ref. 109) The paintings were executed
by Cipriani, and survived until at least 1894. (ref. 110)
Henry Errington lived in the house until his
death in 1819. (ref. 111) The house was then occupied
for a number of years by William Noel Hill, later
third Baron Berwick, and other members of that
family. In 1827 some adjoining houses in Stable
Yard were demolished, and Hill was given
permission to enclose a piece of ground ten feet
wide between the house and the newly formed
public passage into the Green Park, and to form a
new entrance. (ref. 112) In 1853 the Crown lease was
acquired by the Earl of Warwick, (ref. 113) who in that
year was granted permission to build an additional
storey with a curb roof. (ref. 114) In 1859 he became the
occupant and he and other members of his family
lived there until 1907. (ref. 116) In 1860 he erected a
bow window on the south side and a glass conservatory over the entrance hall; the architect was
A. Salvin. During the course of the Earl of
Warwick's occupancy the house is said to have
been 'almost rebuilt'. (ref. 114) Since 1924 it has been
occupied by Viscount Rothermere (formerly the
Hon. Esmond Harmsworth). (ref. 115)
This much altered building has a cementfaced exterior in the French Renaissance taste of
the late nineteenth century. The west front,
facing Green Park, has four storeys each with
four windows, those of the ground and second
storeys having round-arched heads. There is a
prominent entablature below the attic storey, and
the high-pitched roof contains two tiers of dormers. The only external feature in mid-Georgian
style is the shallow porch of wood to the Stable
Yard entrance, with Roman Ionic columns supporting a triangular-pedimented entablature and
framing a round-arched opening.
The principal rooms are richly decorated but
all the work is obviously modern except, perhaps,
for the north-west room on the ground storey
where the walls are lined with painted deal up to
the plaster entablature (Plate 232a). This panelling is mid eighteenth-century in style, the chimney-breast, the end and south side walls each
having a large panel framed by a raised egg-anddart moulding, lugged at the corners. On the end
wall this panel is flanked by doorways, with doorcases composed of an eared architrave, a carved
pulvino, and an enriched triangular pediment, the
face above containing a sunk oblong panel in eggand-dart ovolo-moulded framing. The side wall is
similarly treated but the chimney-breast panel is
surmounted by a carved female mask with fruitand-flower festoons, and flanked by tall and narrow sunk panels, each side recess containing one
large sunk panel. The chimneypiece is later in
style—a most elegant design in wood and compo
with scrolled consoles above tapered jambs, and a
frieze decorated with husk festoons and paterae,
broken by a tablet modelled with scrolls flanking
a vase, the cornice-shelf having a fluted fascia.
The walls are finished with a panelled frieze and
an enriched modillioned cornice, and the ceiling is
decorated with low-relief plasterwork which combines an Adamesque oval fan in the centre with
the Rococo frames diagonally placed in the corners.
The chimneypiece and plaster ceiling recall
certain aspects of Sir William Chambers's style,
but the staircase (Plate 232b) could more certainly
be assigned to him. It rises round the curving
face of a D-shaped compartment, with a continuous sweep of stone treads from landing to
landing, and it is furnished with a finely moulded
mahogany handrail resting on paired bar-balusters
alternating with foliated S-scrolls, all of wrought
iron. Unfortunately, however, the railing of the
first flight and landing has been bracketed out on
coarse Victorian socket-pieces, and the walls of
the first two stages of the compartment have been
divided into panels with raised plaster mouldings.
In the back staircase balustrade are some re-used
turned wooden balusters of a typical late seventeenth-century pattern.
Stornoway House
In or shortly before 1794 William Wyndham,
Baron Grenville, took a sub-lease from Errington
of the house on the northern portion of the latter's
ground (now occupied by the western part of
Stornoway House); he probably also bought the
adjoining freehold land (now occupied by the
eastern part of Stornoway House), which had belonged to Errington. In July 1794 Grenville and
Errington petitioned the Crown for a long lease
of all of Errington's ground, Grenville 'being
desirous of building a substantial Dwelling House
. . . for his own habitation' on the northern part,
and 'of making Subterraneous Offices and Areas
within a small part of the Park and without [i.e.,
outside] the limits of the Ground' granted to
Errington. (ref. 116)
This petition was referred to John Fordyce,
the Surveyor General, who owing to some doubts
which had arisen over the interpretation of the
recent Act for the regulation of Crown lands, did
not report on it until 1798. (ref. 116) During these years
Fordyce was engaged in finally settling the line of
demarcation between the east side of the Green
Park and the gardens of the houses facing it (see
page 541), and it may be inferred that this was
another cause of the delay.
Lord Grenville (1759–1834) was Secretary of
State for Foreign Affairs from 1791 to 1801 and
after Pitt's death he presided over the Ministry of
All the Talents in 1806–7. (ref. 35) In this powerful
political position he therefore 'proceeded to build
his new House, confiding that the Lease would be
renewed to an adequate extent'. (ref. 116) A draft building agreement dated 24 June 1794 between
Grenville and Samuel Wyatt of Albion Mill
House, Blackfriars, architect, has survived, (ref. 117) and
the ratebooks indicate that the house was completed by 1796. It has been said (ref. 118) that the design
of the house was the work of Lady Grenville, but
it seems very much more likely that Samuel Wyatt
was the architect (fig. 82). (ref. 119) In 1799 the Crown
granted long leases of both Errington's and Grenville's houses, and of a strip of ground in front of
them which was to be enclosed as gardens; the
width of this strip ranged from seventeen feet at
the south end of Errington's house to twenty-six
feet at the north end of Grenville's, and the line
of demarcation between the park and the garden
which was established then has been maintained
ever since. (ref. 120)
Lord Grenville only lived in his new house
until 1800. In the following year he was succeeded
by Miles Peter Andrews, (ref. 23) dramatist and powdermagazine owner, whose plays were said to be 'like
his powder mills, particularly hazardous affairs,
and in great danger of going off with a sudden and
violent explosion'. Andrews's lavish entertainments were a great attraction for the fashionable
world. (ref. 35) After Andrews's death in 1814 the
house was occupied by Sir William Scott (later
Baron Stowell), maritime and international lawyer, until 1817. (ref. 9) He was succeeded by John
George Lambton, later first Earl of Durham, who
played an important part in the preparation of the
Reform Bill of 1832 and later wrote his famous
Report on the Affairs of British North America;
during part of his occupancy the house was known
as Durham House. (ref. 9) After his death in 1840 the
house was occupied by other members of his
family until 1844, when the Crown lease was
acquired by Sir James Matheson, M.P., by whom
the house was named Stornoway House. (ref. 121) Sir
James Matheson, and after his death his widow,
lived there until 1896 (ref. 115) and during their occupancy the freehold ground on which the eastern
part of the house stood was acquired by the
Crown. (ref. 122) From 1898 to 1924 the house was
occupied by Colonel and Mrs. F. A. Lucas, and
from 1926 until its partial destruction by enemy
action in the war of 1939–45, by Lord Beaverbrook. (ref. 115) The house was rebuilt in 1958–9, only
the outside walls of the earlier fabric being
retained.
Although the exterior probably preserves the
original fenestration pattern, it has been faced with
cement to an Italianate design (Plate 244c). The
ground storey is coursed with channel-joints and
the windows have plain openings. The lofty
second storey is quoined and finished with a bold
cornice, and the windows are dressed with aprons,
moulded architraves and pediments. The attic
face is plain and its windows are dressed with
architraves that break into the frieze of the
crowning entablature. The dominating features
are the three-windows-wide segmental bow facing
Green Park, and the north return front which is
three windows wide and finished with a large and
richly ornamented triangular pediment. The
recessed face of the north front has four windows
in each upper storey, the arched doorway being
below the easternmost pair.