MEDMENHAM
Medemeham (xi cent.); Medinham (xiii cent.);
Mebbenham (xiv cent.).
Medmenham is a parish with an area of 2,442½
acres, including 512½ acres of arable land, 1,197
acres of permanent grass and 150 acres of woods
and plantations. (fn. 1) The height of the land above the
ordnance datum varies between 98 ft. near Medmenham Ferry in the south of the parish and 446 ft.
near Holywick in the north-west. The soil is chalk,
flint and clay and the chief crops are wheat, barley and
oats. The Thames makes a spl ndid sweep round the
south-east end of this parish known as Medmenham
Reach, and forms its southern boundary. The annual
picturesque ceremony of the 'upping of the swans,'
when the king's watermen in scarlet mark off his
young swans on the Thames from those of other
owners, used to end with a great dinner of the
'Swan-Uppers' at Medmenham.
Immediately to the north-east is a prehistoric
contour camp, inclosing an area of 162/3 acres, which
is fortified by a rampart and ditch, and on the west
side by an advanced rampart; there are several old
gravel and chalk-pits on the site.
In the grounds of Danesfield, about three-quarters
of a mile east of the village, is the camp known as
the Danes' Ditch covering about 20 acres. The
camp is fortified on the north and east by a ditch with
inner and outer ramparts; the defences on the west
side are almost effaced, and on the south side the
steep bank of the river forms a natural defence.
The village is beautifully situated in the south of
the parish at the foot of a wooded hill and contains
several buildings of the 17th century, including the
Dog and Badger Inn and the post office. The church
stands in a churchyard thickly planted with evergreens
at the junction of the Henley-Marlow road with
another running north. Close by to the south-east
is the vicarage, in part a flint building of the late
17th or early 18th century. (fn. 2) The mill stands to
the north-east of the vicarage, and near it is a chalkpit. To the north-west of the church on high
ground beyond the old school is Lodge Farm, a 17th-century house of two stories with attics and basement
of flint with brick quoins and tiled roof. This house
was a favourite study with Pugin, who considered
it a remarkable specimen of brick-work, (fn. 3) but it is
now overgrown with ivy. On a hill to the northeast of Medmenham Church is the supposed site of
the castle or manor-house of the Bolebecs. (fn. 4) There
is a path down the hill to the spring below, and the
locality is known as the 'States' or the States Farm.
The house, now the property of Lord Devonport, is
the residence of the Hon. Sir Reginald Talbot, K.C.B.
Danesfield, the seat of Mr. A. Horn by Lewis, was
built by Mr. R. W. Hudson in 1898. It occupies
a commanding situation in the south-east of the
parish on high ground overlooking the river near the
horse-shoe entrenchment already referred to, which
has given its name to the estate. Near it a bronze
spear-head has been found. (fn. 5) The old house at
Danesfield, occupied by Justice Morton in the later
18th century, (fn. 6) was originally a farm-house named
Medlicotts. (fn. 7) Robert Scott changed the name to
Danesfield, (fn. 8) and it was rebuilt by Mr. Charles ScottMurray in the early 19th century, (fn. 9) but pulled down
by Mr. Hudson when he built the new house. It
stood on a site further removed from the river than
the new mansion and was backed by well-wooded
hills. Attached to the house formerly was a Roman
Catholic chapel, now entirely removed. It was
one of Pugin's last designs and was finished by his
son in 1853. (fn. 10)
Medmenham Abbey, on the site of the Cistercian
abbey of St. Mary, is beautifully situated on the
Thames a quarter of a mile south of the village.
Alterations and additions have left practically nothing
of interest to the architect or the antiquary. The
fragments of the old conventual chapel that remain
are in the rear of the house. The ruinous Abbey
House was rented by Sir Francis Dashwood, afterwards Lord Le Despenser, and was so skilfully restored
for him by Italian artists that it subsequently became
difficult to distinguish the old work from the new. (fn. 11)
Here he founded about 1745 a famous brotherhood,
'The Knights of St. Francis of Wycombe,' with the
motto of Love and Friendship, the dress consisting of
a gown and turban of crimson and blue satin with
the device in silver. This profligate society has been
confused with the famous Hell Fire Club founded by
Philip Duke of Wharton early in the reign of
George I, (fn. 12) and has also been erroneously styled the
'Franciscans' or 'Monks of Medmenham.' The
order of which Sir Francis was grand master was
limited to twenty-four members, men of rank and
fashion, mostly resident in the neighbourhood, who
resorted to Medmenham Abbey during the summer
months. Over the main entrance was placed the
famous inscription from Rabelais, 'Fay ce que voudras,'
and other similar inscriptions were placed in the
house and beautiful gardens. Among their other
questionable amusements the brotherhood held mock
religious ceremonies, for which they have been justly
censured. They probably transacted a certain amount
of political business. The members belonged to the
Opposition, and included Frederick Prince of Wales,
the Duke of Queensberry, the Earl of Bute, Lord
Melcombe, Sir William Stanhope, K.B, Sir John
Dashwood-King, bart., Sir Francis Delaval, K.B., Sir
John Vanluttan, kt., Henry Vansittart, afterwards
Governor of Bengal, (fn. 13) and Paul Whitchead the poet,
who was treasurer and steward. The brotherhood,
then only about six in number, had fallen into disrepute by 1762. John Wilkes, who was introduced
by Lord Le Despenser, (fn. 14) played a practical joke which
led to his expulsion. He instigated the publication
in 1763 of a satirical print by Charles Churchill,
The Secrets of the Convent, in which Le Despenser
and his friends were lampooned. This led to the
closing of the abbey and the growth of legends
concerning it. The most sensational appeared in
Chrysal, or the Adventure of a Guinea, and in the
Town and Country Magazine of 1769. The ridiculous
story that the brotherhood slept in cradles originated
with Miss Berry of the Journals and Correspondence,
who saw at the abbey an old cradle which had
belonged to the caretaker.
Medmenham Abbey was restored by Mr. Hudson
in 1898, and is now the residence of Colonel Sir
Douglas Dawson, G.C.V.O., C.M.G. The early
15th-century manor-house between it and the church,
left by Geoffrey Pole at his death in 1479 to his
wife Bona for life, (fn. 15) was carefully restored in 1903 for
its owner, Hudson Ewbanke Kearley, created Lord
Devonport in 1910. The house is of brick-nogged
half-timber standing on a brick foundation and has a
central hall with an open-timbered roof and a wing
which must have originally contained kitchen and
offices on the north side. Considerable alterations
were made in the 17th century, and it was at one
time converted into cottages. Lord Devonport's seat
at Wittington was built in 1898 in the early Georgian
style on a cliff to the north-east of Danesfield overlooking Hurley Weir.
In the west of Medmenham parish is Bockmer,
frequently mentioned as his country seat in the
papers bearing on the trial of Henry Pole Lord
Montagu in 1538, (fn. 16) and afterwards the residence of
the Borlase family. (fn. 17) Part of the mansion was converted into a farm-house early in the 18th century. (fn. 18)
The parlour contains early 17th-century panelling and
over the fireplace is a carved shield with the arms, a
saltire ermine quartered with two cheverons between
throe scallops. On the farm there is an ancient
barn. (fn. 19) A chalk-pit lies to the north-east of Bockmer End. In the extreme north of the parish
stretches Holme Wood. South-east of it stands
Woodend House, now a farm with Woodend and
Lower Woodend Farms. At Holywick to the southwest of Woodend House there was formerly a chapel
on a site known as Chapel-field. (fn. 20)
The following place-names have been found in
Medmenham: Mullonde, Radeslo and Withemere (fn. 21)
(xiii cent.); le Rusthemere and Weybrokesmed (fn. 22)
(xiv cent.); Abbots' or Priory Grove, (fn. 23) Blackmere, (fn. 24)
Bramell Crofts, le Butt, Chappelfields, Dybden,
Hallywicks, lez Strettes, Waybrokes, Wyer's Croft, (fn. 25)
Mylpole alias Cornmore (fn. 26) (xvi cent.); Boyswell
Close, lez Brachees, (fn. 27) Dummers, (fn. 28) the Grange House,
the Roodhouse alias Reedhouse (fn. 29) (xvii cent.).
MANORS
Before the Conquest MEDMENHAM
MANOR was held by Wulstan, a thegn
of King Edward, (fn. 30) and in 1086 of the
king in chief by Hugh de Bolebec. (fn. 31) It was held as
one knight's fee of the feudal barony of Bolebec, and,
following the same descent as Great Kimble (q.v.),
passed to the earldom of Oxford, (fn. 32) from which it was
severed in 1284, when Robert de Vere Earl of Oxford
bestowed it in marriage with his daughter Joan on
William de Warenne. (fn. 33) The tenure was changed
between 1316 (fn. 34) and 1347 (fn. 35) from knight's service to
petty serjeanty with a yearly rent of 6s.
William de Warenne, eldest son of the Earl of
Surrey, who obtained Medmenham in marriage, as
stated above, died in 1286. (fn. 36) His lands were taken
into the king's hands, but restored in the next year
to his widow Joan, (fn. 37) who died about 1293. (fn. 38) Their
son John de Warenne, (fn. 39) while still a minor, became
Earl of Surrey on the death of his grandfather John
[sixth] Earl of Surrey in 1304. (fn. 40) A lease of Medmenham Manor for life to Ralph de Cobham terminated at his death in 1326. (fn. 41) On the death of
John seventh Earl of Surrey at Medmenham in 1347
the manor passed to his nephew
and heir Richard Fitz Alan
Earl of Arundel. (fn. 42) In 1359
he settled it on the marriage
of his son Richard, who was
executed in 1397 for joining
the Duke of Gloucester against
the king. (fn. 43) His estates being
forfeited, (fn. 44) Medmenham was
granted to Thomas le Despenser Earl of Gloucester, (fn. 45)
who was beheaded in 1400
for supporting Richard II, (fn. 46)
and soon afterwards Thomas
Fitz Alan was restored to the title and estates of his
father. (fn. 47) At his death without issue in 1415 his heirs
were his three sisters, Elizabeth Duchess of Norfolk,
Joan widow of William Beauchamp Lord Abergavenny and Margaret wife of Sir Rowland Lenthal,
kt. (fn. 48) Joan's share of Medmenham Manor passed at
her death in 1434 to her granddaughter Elizabeth
wife of Sir Edward Nevill, kt., (fn. 49) sometimes styled in
her right Lord Abergavenny. (fn. 50) Their son and heir
George Nevill (fn. 51) conveyed it in 1471 to Geoffrey Pole
for an annual payment of 10 marks. (fn. 52) It seems to
have been this portion, under the title of Medmenham
Manor, of which the latter died seised in 1479, and
which he held with feoffees in trust for his son Richard, (fn. 53)
who was made K.G. in 1499. (fn. 54) It follows the same
descent as Ellesborough Manor until 1539, when on
the attainder and execution of
Sir Richard Pole's son Henry
Lord Montagu his lands were
forfeited to the Crown. (fn. 55)
These appear to have included
the whole of Medmenham
Manor, (fn. 56) which was granted
in 1553 by Edward VI to
Sir Thomas Palmer. (fn. 57) On his
attainder in the same year
Queen Mary made a grant of
this manor to William Rice
and his wife Barbara, at first
in survivorship (fn. 58) and a month
later in fee-tail. (fn. 59) He died
without issue in 1588, (fn. 60) and Barbara, having married
Edmund Burgoyne, joined with him in conveying
her life interest in the manor to John Hyde in
1593. (fn. 61) By settlement in the hands of trustees the
reversionary interests passed to a nephew of William
Rice bearing the same name in tail-male, with remainder to Elizabeth, Anne and Margaret Rice, his
uncle's half-sisters, and their heirs, and further remainder to Barbara Rice's nieces Anne and Mary
Fuller. (fn. 62) The latter married the younger William
Rice, (fn. 63) and in 1593 after her husband's death she
joined her sister Anne and her husband William
Eden in conveying their remainders to Antony
Ashley. (fn. 64) He also made settlements in the same
year with Elizabeth, who had previously married
William Fitz Geoffrey, (fn. 65) and Anne Rice, wife of
George Mortimer, (fn. 66) in respect of their remainders.
In 1595 Margaret Rice and her husband Edward
Eyton sold their interest in the manor to William
Borlase, (fn. 67) who also obtained a quitclaim in full from
the three sisters and their husbands, from Antony
Ashley and John Hyde. (fn. 68) In 1597 he sued the
trustees of William Rice (fn. 69) for the deed of settlement.
From this date the descent of Medmenham Manor
is the same as that of Little Marlow (q.v.) until
about the middle of the 19th century, (fn. 70) when it
passed from the Lees of Hartwell (fn. 71) to Mr. Charles R.
Scott-Murray. (fn. 72) His son Mr. C. Aloysius ScottMurray of Danesfield (q.v.) sold Medmenham Manor
in 1896 to Mr. R. W. Hudson, (fn. 73) from whom it was
purchased in 1910 by Mr. A. Hornby Lewis (fn. 74) on
behalf of his wife, who is the present owner.
Vere. Quarterly gules and or with a molet argent in the quarter.
Warenne. Checky or and azure.
Fitz Alan. Gules a lion argent.
Pole. Party or and sable a saltire engrailed and countercoloured.
Elizabeth widow of Thomas Mowbray Duke of
Norfolk, to whom one-third of Medmenham Manor
passed in 1415, seems to have acquired her sister
Margaret Lenthal's share in addition to her own
before the latter's death in 1423, when there is no
mention of lands in Buckinghamshire. (fn. 75) Elizabeth's
son John Duke of Norfolk (fn. 76) held part of Medmenham Manor at his death in 1432. (fn. 77) In the
following year one-third of two shares of the manor
extended at £6 15s. yearly was assigned in dower to
his widow Katherine. (fn. 78) In 1461 she married her
fourth husband, Sir John Woodvill, brother of
Elizabeth queen of Edward IV. (fn. 79) Her portion
appears to have been transferred (fn. 80) to John sixth
Duke of Norfolk before 1469, when his estate in
Medmenham is called MEDMENHAM MANOR. (fn. 81)
To this Elizabeth the queen established her right in
1477, Elizabeth Duchess of Norfolk holding for
life. (fn. 82) In the same year the reversion was granted
for life to Richard Duke of York, the queen's son,
who had been married to Anne (fn. 83) only daughter and
heir of John Mowbray sixth Duke of Norfolk. (fn. 84)
Her mother, the Duchess Elizabeth, lived until 1506, (fn. 85)
and the Medmenham estate of the Mowbrays presumably reverted to the Crown, and was eventually
merged in Lord Montagu's lands. It appears to have
included the site of the castle of the Bolebecs called
BULBEK MANOR in 1539, when Thomas More
was made custodian and also bailiff of the whole
manor of Medmenham. (fn. 86) It is simply called the
site of the manor in 1553, when William Rice
brought a suit against the tenants Joan More and her
son Edmund, as tenants at will, for the yearly rent of
£15 0s. 8d. (fn. 87) He complained that they broke into a
wood called 'the park inclosed for breeding herneshawes and shovellers,' robbed the nests, and fished in
his part of the river. (fn. 88) They, apparently straining
the grant of 1539, (fn. 89) pleaded that they held by a
lease granted by Henry VIII to Thomas More for
a term not yet expired. The site corresponds to the
messuage called BULBANK owned by Francis
Duffield in 1612. (fn. 90) A strong building then in ruins
was locally called BULLBANK'S CASTLE in 1771, (fn. 91)
a practice which had fallen into disuse in 1797. (fn. 92)
After the grant of 1553 (fn. 93) the manorial privileges
included the court leet (fn. 94) and the view of frankpledge, (fn. 95)
last mentioned in the first half of the 17th century, (fn. 96) and free warren. (fn. 97)
The fishery at Medmenham, which accounted for
1,000 eels in 1086, (fn. 98) was worth 21s. yearly in the
15th century, when a fishing-pool produced an addi
tional 6s. 8d. (fn. 99) The fishing rights at the end of the
next century extended over 4 miles of the Thames, (fn. 100)
and in 1630 reference is made to both a free and
several fishery and also a weir. (fn. 101)
Medmenham Mill was included in the original
grant to Woburn Abbey in Stephen's reign (Medmenham Abbey, q.v.). Reference to a fulling-mill
occurs in 1326. (fn. 102) The first grant of 1553 to
William Rice included all mills, (fn. 103) and in 1595 two
mills stood on the manor lands. (fn. 104) A reference to
Medmenham Mill occurs in 1666. (fn. 105)
Medmenham Abbey owned lands known from the
later 18th century as the DANESFIELD estate in
this parish, originally granted in Stephen's reign by
Hugh de Bolebec to the Cistercian monks of Woburn
Abbey, Bedfordshire, for the foundation of a branch
house. (fn. 106) In 1201 they obtained from King John a
charter of confirmation, with leave to build a monastery in Medmenham Manor. (fn. 107) After the monastery
(known from 1213 as Medmenham Abbey) (fn. 108) was
built this right was disputed by Ellis de Beauchamp
and his wife Constance, one of the co-heirs of Walter
de Bolebec, brother of Hugh. (fn. 109) The other co-heir,
Isabella de Bolebec, (fn. 110) Countess of Oxford, to whom
Medmenham came, evidently confirmed her uncle's
grant. A final settlement took place in 1241. (fn. 111) The
estate was retained by Medmenham Abbey (fn. 112) until
the dissolution of the lesser monasteries in 1536. (fn. 113)
It was granted to Bisham Abbey in 1537. (fn. 114) The
site of Medmenham Abbey
and all lands in Medmenham
which had belonged to Bisham
were granted in fee in 1546 (fn. 115)
to Thomas and Robert More. (fn. 116)
In 1559 the latter alienated
this property (except a portion
lately granted by him to Ralph
Godfrey of Great Marlow) to
James Duffield and his wife
Frances. (fn. 117) Their son Francis
succeeded his father in 1585 (fn. 118)
and died in 1612, when his
son Knightley was a minor. (fn. 119)
He was tried in 1637 for
killing William Tibbet, (fn. 120) and was succeeded in 1665
by his son Andrew, who died unmarried (fn. 121) in 1688. (fn. 122)
He left this estate to his cousin Francis and to the
latter's son Francis in tail-male. (fn. 123) The father died
in 1713 (fn. 124) and the son (fn. 125) in 1728, (fn. 126) and both were
buried at Medmenham. The next owner, Francis
Duffield son of the younger Francis, (fn. 127) was also buried
there in 1758. (fn. 128) It was in his time that the abbey
was leased to Sir Francis Dashwood, founder of the
knights of St. Francis of Wycombe. He left his
lands in trust for his natural son Francis, who was
called by his father's name. (fn. 129) Another Duffield, then
owner of the family estate, sold it in 1779 to John
Morton, chief justice of Chester. (fn. 130) It was purchased
from his widow in 1786 by Robert Scott, (fn. 131) from whose
time it has been known as the Danesfield estate.
He died in 1808, (fn. 132) bequeathing Danesfield to his
wife. (fn. 133) On her death in 1834 (fn. 134) this estate passed to
his nephew Mr. Charles Scott-Murray, (fn. 135) the residuary
heir. (fn. 136) His grandson Mr. C. Aloysius Scott-Murray (fn. 137)
sold it with Medmenham Manor (q.v.) to Mr. R. W.
Hudson, and Mrs. Hornby Lewis is the present
owner.
Duffield. Sable a cheveron between three doves argent.
The name of Wittington (Widindon, xiv cent.;
Whittendon, xix cent.), Lord Devonport's seat in
Medmenham, occurs in 1317, when Ralph son of
Ralph de Widindon and his wife Isabel conveyed
26 acres of land held in her right to William atte
Park de Colum and Clementia his wife. (fn. 138) Wittington Farm in the 16th and 17th centuries followed
the same descent as Harleyford Manor in Great
Marlow (q.v.). Being forfeited to the Crown, it was
granted at the request of Archbishop Laud by
Charles I to the University of Oxford for the maintenance of students from Jersey and Guernsey. (fn. 139) £20
yearly for this purpose was paid by the Claytons of
Harleyford, who leased it in the 19th century. (fn. 140)
Lord Devonport's property in Medmenham was purchased in 1896 from Mr. C. A. Scott-Murray. (fn. 141)
WOODEND, a messuage with yard-land belonging to Medmenham Manor, was sold by William
Rice before 1569 to James Duffield. (fn. 142) This farm
belonged to Francis Duffield at his death in 1612. (fn. 143)
Christopher Weedon, who acquired common rights in
Woodend from Sir William Borlase in 1624, (fn. 144) held
land in this part of Medmenham in chief by knight's
service at his death in 1639. (fn. 145) He left an infant
daughter Jane, (fn. 146) from whose trustees Robert Weedon
of Bosmere (q.v.) purchased it before his death in
1659. (fn. 147) This property was bought by the Townsend
family in 1730 (fn. 148) and was owned by them for over
130 years. (fn. 149) Woodend House, their residence, is
now occupied by Mr. Brook Keen.
CHURCH
The church of ST. PETER consists of a chancel measuring internally
18 ft. 6 in. by 20 ft., nave 52 ft. 6 in.
by 20 ft., and a west tower 12 ft. square.
The building dates from the late 12th or early 13th
century and probably consisted of a chancel and nave,
with a north transept which has now disappeared. In
the 15th century the chancel was rebuilt continuously
with the nave and the west tower was added, the north
transept probably being pulled down at the same time.
The building has been restored and the original detail
considerably renewed. The flint and chalk rubble of
which the walls are composed is arranged in the case
of those of the chancel in a rough diaper pattern.
The original dressings which remain are of chalk and
limestone and the roofs are covered with tiles.
In the east wall of the chancel is a restored window
of three trefoiled lights with a traceried two-centred
head and an external label. The modern two-light
window in the north wall is probably in an old opening, but the doorway in this wall and the window
and doorway in the south wall are entirely modern.
The piscina is probably of the 15th century. There
is no chancel arch.
The original late 12th-century pointed arch at the
east end of the north wall of the nave, which forms
the only evidence of the former existence of a transept, is now blocked. In this wall there are two
windows of late 15th-century date, each consisting of
two trefoiled lights with a square traceried head;
the western of these two windows and the semicircular-headed north doorway between them are
now blocked. The south wall has three windows,
the westernmost of which is like the blocked window
opposite, while the two eastern ones are modern but
possibly in original openings. The south doorway
retains its original plain jambs and semicircular head,
but the abaci appear to have been recut. To the
east of the doorway internally there is a recess for a
stoup, and the wall also contains a piscina, probably
of 15th-century date.
The west tower, which is of three stages with
diagonal buttresses at the western angles, a projecting
stair turret at the south-east, and an embattled parapet,
is covered externally with plaster and rough-cast. The
tower arch is of two orders, the outer continuous and
the inner springing from semi-octagonal responds
which have moulded capitals and bases. In the west
wall there is a doorway which has continuously
moulded jambs and head and an external label, and
above it is a window of three cinquefoiled lights with
a four-centred traceried head; a small pointed doorway in the south wall opens to the stair-turret. The
second stage is lighted by single trefoiled openings,
and the topmost stage has windows of two trefoiled
lights with traceried heads.
The nave roof has tie-beams, king-posts, struts and
plates, probably of the late 15th century. In the
nave is a brass commemorating Richard Levyng, who
died in 1412, and his wife Alice, who died in 1419,
and on the north wall a hatchment with arms, and
an inscription commemorating Anne Danvers, who
died in 1677.
In the tower there is an iron chest with a lock
which occupies the whole lid; apparently it is of
mediaeval date and of foreign workmanship. The
communion table is of the early 17th century, and
the pulpit contains some elaborate panels of the same
period, two of which are carved with representations
of the Annunciation and the Nativity and two with
cherubs' heads.
There are three bells, the treble by Samuel Knight,
1691, the second by Ellis Knight, 1624, and the
third by Henry and Ellis Knight, 1666.
The plate includes a silver-gilt cup and standing
paten of 1637.
The registers begin in 1654.
ADVOWSON
Medmenham Church was included in Hugh de Bolebec's grant
to the monks of Woburn Abbey. (fn. 150)
The advowson belonged to Medmenham Abbey in
1223, when the newly-ordained vicarage was endowed
with certain tithes. (fn. 151) This regulation was reenforced by Bishop Grosteste about 1238. (fn. 152) Medmenham Church was valued at £8 yearly in 1291 (fn. 153)
and at £6 in 1535. (fn. 154) At the later date the rectory
was worth £5 yearly and oblations averaged
£1 6s. 8d. (fn. 155) The descent of both advowson and
rectory is the same as that of the abbey lands (fn. 156) (q.v.),
and Mrs. A. Hornby Lewis is the present owner.
The tithes had been commuted before 1862 (fn. 157) for
£200 and there are 3 acres of glebe. Geoffrey Pole
left £10 in his will for church repairs. (fn. 158)
CHARITIES
The foundation scholarships in
connexion with Sir William Borlase's
school at Great Marlow are open to
boys in elementary schools in this parish. (fn. 159)