ROMFORD
Manors and other Estates, p. 64. Economic History, p. 72. Early Mills, p. 74. Market, Fair, and Corn
Exchange, p. 75. Forest, p. 76. Local Government, p. 76. Public Services, p. 79. Parliamentary Represencation, p. 82. Churches, p. 82. Roman Catholicism, p. 87. Protestant Nonconformity, p. 87. Judaism,
p. 91. Education, p. 91. Charities for the Poor, p. 96.
Romford, about 12 miles east of the city of London,
is part of the London borough of Havering. (fn. 1) During
the Middle Ages a small market town grew up here
along the main London-Colchester road. Romford
market still flourishes, but the old town has been
engulfed by commuter suburbs stretching east to
Gidea Park and north to Collier Row and Chase
Cross. The large Harold Hill housing estate, built by
the London county council in 1948–58, forms the
north-east corner of Romford.
Romford, or 'Romford side', was a chapelry of the
ancient parish of Hornchurch, containing five
wards: town, Harold Wood, Collier Row, Noak
Hill, and Havering. (fn. 2) It remained subject to Hornchurch for church purposes until the 19th century,
but for civil purposes was virtually independent by
the 16th century. Havering ward became independent
for civil purposes in the later 17th century. A local
board, later urban district council, was formed for
Romford in 1851. The boundary of its district,
several times altered, was in 1934 finally enlarged to
9,324 a., an area identical with that of the five
ancient wards of Romford side. (fn. 3) The district
became a municipal borough in 1937. In 1965 it was
united with Hornchurch U.D. to form the London
borough of Havering.
The old town is about 50 ft. above sea-level, on
the upper edge of the gravel terrace that rises from
the Thames. Farther north, on the London Clay at
Collier Row, the land rises to over 150 ft. The main
watercourse is the river Rom, which flows south
through Romford and Hornchurch to join the
Thames as the river Beam. (fn. 4) The old town sometimes
suffered from floods, notably that of 1888. (fn. 5) By 1936
much of the Rom at the town centre had been
culverted. (fn. 6) The river Ravensbourne, a tributary of
the Rom, flows south and west from Gidea Park.
Weald brook, which is the boundary between
Romford and South Weald, to the east, flows south
into Hornchurch, continuing as the river Ingrebourne to the Thames. (fn. 7) Carter's brook, rising at
Noak Hill, becomes Paine's brook, as it passes
through Harold Hill to join the Ingrebourne. (fn. 8) The
Loam pond formerly stood at the eastern end of the
market-place. In the later 18th century Romford
vestry sometimes met the cost of fencing it. (fn. 9) The
pond was bought by the local board in 1871, and
was filled in in 1874. (fn. 10)
Schemes for a canal from Romford to the Thames
were canvassed several times in the 19th century. (fn. 11)
Between 1875 and 1880 such a canal was actually
started, but it was never finished. (fn. 12) Remains of it,
near New Road on the Hornchurch-Dagenham
boundary, were identified and partly excavated
in 1972. (fn. 13)
The Roman settlement of Durolitum was probably
at or near Romford, but its exact site is not known. (fn. 14)
Most of the Roman remains found there have come
from Collier Row, Noak Hill, and Harold Hill. (fn. 15)
Romford, first recorded in 1153–4, (fn. 16) probably means
'wide ford,' from which the river Rom took its name
by back-formation. (fn. 17) The chapel of St. Andrew,
Romford, first mentioned in 1177, stood east of the
Rom, on the south corner of Oldchurch Road and
South Street. (fn. 18) In the 17th century an area of 34 a.,
extending west of the river for 660 yd. along the
south side of Oldchurch Road, was occupied by 6
fields called ruin meadow, lower ruins, great ruins,
and three little ruins. (fn. 19) There must have been a
settlement there, including a number of stone or
brick buildings. It is unlikely that it was, wholly or
mainly, a medieval site, since masonry was rarely
used in Essex between the 5th and 15th centuries,
except in churches and other large buildings.
Twelfth-century Romford may have stood west of
St. Andrew's chapel, amid or beside the ruins of a
Roman town (fn. 20) ; but the Oldchurch site has not been
excavated, and no Roman or medieval remains,
apart from the chapel, have been recorded there.
If the medieval nucleus of settlement ever was at
Oldchurch it had ceased to be there by 1410, when
St. Andrew's chapel was abandoned, and the chapel
of St. Edward was built about ½ m. to the north, on
the present site in the market-place, then a piece of
roadside common at the east end of the town. (fn. 21)
Romford had been given a weekly market in 1247,
with an annual fair in 1250, (fn. 22) and the growth of the
town along the main London-Colchester road
probably dates from that period.
Until the 20th century Romford remained a
small country town. In c. 1618 the urban area was
confined to the market-place, High Street, the east
end of London Road, and the south end of Woolford
(now North) Street. (fn. 23) There were hamlets fringing
the commons at Collier Row and Noak Hill, and on
the main road at Hare Street (now Gidea Park).
The face of the parish did not change much in the
next 200 years. (fn. 24) The population has been roughly
estimated as 1,345 in 1580, 1,485 in 1680, and 1,846
in 1735. (fn. 25) In 1670 there were 323 houses in Romford,
of which 184 were in the town ward, 56 in Collier
Row, 50 in Harold Wood ward (the present Gidea
Park and Harold Hill), and 33 in Noak Hill. (fn. 26)
In 1801 Romford had a population of 3,179,
occupying 522 houses. (fn. 27) In size and character it was
then similar to Epping, another Essex market town
with a busy coaching trade on a main road to
London. (fn. 28) Unlike Epping, however, Romford was
linked to a main railway line as early as 1839, and
continued to grow steadily throughout the 19th
century. The population increased to 5,317 in 1841,
to 8,239 in 1871, and to 13,915 in 1901. After the
First World War it grew rapidly, from 19,442 in
1921 to 35,918 in 1931, 88,002 in 1951, and 114,584
in 1961. (fn. 29)
The first large development in the 19th century
was on the old barrack ground, south of London
Road. The site comprised about 12 a., extending
south to the railway. It was sold c. 1840, and during
the next 15 years some 200 artisans' cottages and at
least two factories were built there. (fn. 30) The area,
which was known in the 1840s as New Romford,
included Waterloo Road, St. Andrew's Road, and
Queen Street. Since the Second World War it has
been redeveloped with council flats.
At the other end of Romford, east of the market-place, the small middle-class suburb of Laurie town
was built c. 1850 by John Laurie (d. 1864), a
London saddler of Scottish descent who lived at
Marshalls, Romford, from 1846 to 1864. (fn. 31) It
originally included two public halls, St. Edward's
hall and the Laurie hall, standing respectively east
and west of the Loam pond, in St. Edward's (later
Laurie) Square. On the north side of the square
were four pairs of semi-detached villas. All those
buildings were in existence by 1853. (fn. 32) A few more
houses were built c. 1857 in Park End Road, north of
the square. (fn. 33) When complete the square included,
on its south side, a dwarf wall with ornamental
pillars. (fn. 34) St. Edward's hall was demolished soon
after John Laurie's death. (fn. 35) In 1874, when the Loam
pond was filled in, the ornamental wall was also
removed. (fn. 36) The centre of the square was converted
into a public garden and war memorial in the 1920s.
In 1965 the two pairs of villas on the NE. side of the
square were demolished to make way for the new
central library. The villas on the north-west side
were removed in 1968, when St. Edward's Way was
being built, and the Laurie Hall in 1970. (fn. 37) The site
of the square then became a traffic roundabout, with
pedestrian subways named Ludwigshafen Place,
from the West German town (Rheinland Pfalz)
which is 'twinned' with Romford.
A much larger development was undertaken in
1851 by the National Freehold Land Society, which
had acquired the manor of Stewards, comprising
some 200 a. on the east side of South Street, near
Romford station. (fn. 38) By 1854 Western and Eastern
Roads, and the southern end of Junction Road had
been built, and many plots sold. Victoria Road was
laid out c. 1855, and the first houses were erected
there c. 1856–8. (fn. 39) Building started in Albert Road c.
1860, George Street c. 1864, Carlisle, Shakespeare,
Milton, and Shaftesbury Roads c. 1866, and Richmond Street (now Road) c. 1869. (fn. 40)
Romford did not grow much in the 1870s, but in
1883 the manor of Mawneys, containing 265 a.
north-west of High Street, was sold for building,
which by 1889 was proceeding rapidly, and by
1899 stretched from Mildmay Road east to Linden
Street, and from Marks Road north to Forest
Road. (fn. 41) During the 1880s the manor of East House,
north of the town, was also cut up for building, but
progress there was slower, and as late as 1901 only
50 houses had been built, in Havering, Rosedale,
and Hainault Roads. (fn. 42) North-east of the town the
Hill Park estate, comprising Kingston, Erroll, and
Gilbert Roads, was laid out in 1898–9, and at the
same time Junction Road was extended to join Main
Road. (fn. 43)
By 1900 Romford was also expanding westwards.
The small Birkbeck estate, comprising Birkbeck,
Grosvenor, Wolseley, and West Roads, at Rush
Green, was being built by 1885. (fn. 44) The Shrubbery
estate, lying between London Road and Sheringham
Avenue, was developed c. 1899–1900. (fn. 45) Meanwhile
the town was continuing to spread south and southeast. There was more building in Victoria Road, and
at its eastern end Manor, Prince's, and King's
Roads were laid out c. 1886. (fn. 46) By 1908 building had
extended south to Clydesdale Road, while farther
east, beyond the Romford-Upminster railway
line, the large Heath Park estate was being developed. (fn. 47) The only large area near the town centre
which had not yet been built-up was the Marshalls
estate, comprising some 120 a. between North
Street and Pettits Lane. That came on the market in
1924, and was developed during the following
years. (fn. 48) The growth so far mentioned was nearly all
within a mile of the old town and Romford railway
station. Beyond that radius there was little urban
building in the 19th century. At Prospect Place, in
Collier Row Lane, a new hamlet, of about 30
cottages, occupied by artisans, was in existence by
1846. (fn. 49) Factory Road (now Elvet Avenue), Squirrels
Heath, containing about 50 houses, was built about
the same time for workers at the Eastern Counties
Railway Co.'s tarpaulin factory. (fn. 50) It was redeveloped
in 1964 with council flats in towers. (fn. 51)

ROMFORD c.1865
The Gidea Park garden suburb, built in 1910–11,
was the most notable development in Romford up
to that time. (fn. 52) In 1897 the Gidea Hall estate,
containing some 480 a., had been bought by (Sir)
Herbert Raphael, (Bt.) (1859–1924), of Rose Court,
Havering, who earlier in that year had narrowly
failed in his second attempt to secure election as
Liberal M.P. for the Romford division. (fn. 53) He gave a
strip on the western edge of the estate for a public
park, opened in 1904. On the eastern side of the estate
90 a. were already occupied by Romford golf club,
which he had founded in 1894. (fn. 54) In 1910 Raphael
joined with two other Liberal M.P.s, Charles
McCurdy and (Sir) Tudor Walters, to form Gidea
Park Ltd., for the purpose of building a garden
suburb on the remainder of the Gidea Hall estate.
Gidea Park Ltd. had close links with the Hampstead
Garden Suburb Co., in which Raphael, McCurdy,
and Tudor Walters were all shareholders. (fn. 55) As
originally planned Gidea Park garden suburb was to
occupy about a square mile, extending east to
Gallows Corner, and north to the present Rise Park.
The company arranged with the Great Eastern
Railway for the building of Squirrels Heath (now
Gidea Park) station, and bought an additional 60 a.
land, south of Main Road, to control access to it.
Gidea Park Ltd. offered to sell building plots or
completed houses, to design houses for purchasers'
requirements, and to provide 100 per cent mortgages.
The foundation stone of the garden suburb was laid
in 1910. The designs of the first houses were open to
competition, and about 100 architects entered,
including such well-known men as Barry Parker and
(Sir) Raymond Unwin, M. H. Baillie Scott, T.
Gordon Jackson, Philip Tilden, and Clough WilliamsEllis. By the following year 140 houses had been
built. The first part of the suburb was laid out
around Gidea Hall, between Raphael Park and
Heath Drive. Most of the area south of Main Road
was not formally included in the suburb, but a few
houses were also built there, in Balgores Lane and
adjoining roads. Nearly all the houses were detached.
The competition was restricted to 'small houses' of
4 bedrooms, costing £500, and 3-bedroom 'cottages',
costing £375. Stress was laid on convenient and
labour-saving plans. Many of the houses were in
Tudor styles, roughcast, colour-washed, or sometimes half-timbered. (fn. 56) The area was well landscaped,
and the plots were of good size. There was a separate
town planning competition for future development.
The Gidea Park garden suburb was not completed
as planned. Eastern Avenue, the arterial road built in
the 1920s, cut across the northern side of it. In 1934
Gidea Park Ltd. held another competition in an
attempt to sell more building plots. (fn. 57) By that time
Gidea Hall had been demolished. A small area east
of the golf course had been laid out as Links Avenue
and Hockley Drive. The golf course itself had been
considerably enlarged, and a sports ground had been
made adjoining Gallows Corner. Most of the plots
offered for sale were along Eastern Avenue. Nearly
500 designs were entered for the competition, and 35
houses were built in Brook Road and the adjoining
part of Eastern Avenue. The houses were divided
into 5 classes, with prices ranging from £650 to
£1,475. Those in the two cheapest classes were
semi-detached. All were in contemporary styles,
some being built of concrete, and most with flat
roofs. In promoting the competition Gidea Park
Ltd., though stressing architectural innovation, had
abandoned the garden suburb idea, and their
original town planning designs, referring always to
the Gidea Park Estate, and proposing ribbon
development along Eastern Avenue. Most of that
development did not, however, take place, and there
has been little building on the estate since 1934.
By the 1930s the area immediately south of the
garden suburb was being rapidly built up, and the
name Gidea Park was adopted for a ward of the town,
comprising the area round the railway station. Some
of the new building was by Gidea Park Ltd., which
in 1934 was offering flats to let in Geddy Court,
Hare Hall Lane, a large 4-storey block near the
station. It was, however, in the north of the town
that Romford's main development took place
between the two world wars. Collier Row had been
growing slowly since c. 1900, but was still largely
rural until 1929, when 80 a. were released for building.
By 1939 more than half the area of the ward had
been built up, the peak year being 1937, when some
1,500 house plans were passed. (fn. 58) Romford's leading
developer between the two world wars was Thomas
England (d. 1960), who had started his business
career as an assistant in a local chemist's shop. (fn. 59)
Schemes for further building in the north of the
borough were checked shortly before the Second
World War by the Green Belt legislation. (fn. 60) Since the
war there has been more building, including some
large borough council estates, at Collier Row, and
farther east at Chase Cross and Rise Park, but the
main area of growth has been Harold Hill, where in
1948–58 the London county council built some 8,200
houses, and some factories, on the former Dagnam
Park estate. (fn. 61) The site had more natural variety than
Becontree, (fn. 62) and two large areas of park-land were
retained. The houses, most of which are of two
storeys, semi-detached, or in short terraces, are
notable for their restrained design and the frequent
use of a dark red facing brick and plain tiles. (fn. 63) In the
past five years there has been some further building
in vacant corners of the estate. In the town centre a
new shopping precinct, completed in 1972, has been
built between the Market Place and Western Road.
Until the coming of the railways Romford's
communications with the outside world depended
mainly on the London-Colchester road, that part of
which was maintained from 1721 by the Middlesex
and Essex turnpike trust. (fn. 64) There were also lanes
running south to Dagenham and Hornchurch, east
via Squirrels Heath to Upminster, and north to
Havering and South Weald. In 1814, when the
commons were inclosed, new roads replaced the old
tracks running east from Collier Row to Noak Hill,
and south to Gallows Corner. Eastern Avenue,
opened in 1925 as part of the arterial road from
London to Southend, (fn. 65) ran through Romford about
1 mile north of the town centre. The old London road
remained as a busy thoroughfare through the centre
until 1970, when St. Edward's Way was opened as
the northern section of a projected ringroad. (fn. 66)
Romford bridge, which carried the London road
(High Street) over the Rom, was presented at the
Essex sessions in 1627 as needing repair. (fn. 67) It was
again presented there in 1648, when it was stated
that the king was responsible for repair, but in
1649 the county ceased proceedings after learning
that the inhabitants of the liberty of Havering were
responsible. (fn. 68) In 1650 the tenants of the liberty
claimed that the bridge had formerly been maintained
by the Crown, and should now pass to the state. (fn. 69) It
was apparently rebuilt c. 1737 at the cost of the
Crown. (fn. 70) A new bridge, built in 1906, was reconstructed in 1921. (fn. 71)
There are also several minor bridges along the
London-Colchester road. In 1768 they were
recorded as Putwell, Paine's, and Romford Gallows
bridges, in Colchester Road, Watermill bridge, in
Main Road, Romford Gore and Pigtail Wash
bridges in London Road. (fn. 72) Putwell (or Delle)
bridge is reserved for treatment under South
Weald. Paine's bridge was mentioned in 1567. (fn. 73)
Watermill bridge, styled Watermen's bridge c. 1772,
was rebuilt to the design of James Paine c. 1776,
when Gidea Hall park was landscaped. (fn. 74) It became
known in the 19th century as Black's bridge. In
1893 it was taken over by the county council. (fn. 75)
In the 1830s some 30 coaches called at Romford
daily, travelling to or from London, Chelmsford,
Colchester, Harwich, Bury St. Edmund's (Suff.)
and other places. (fn. 76) The Eastern Counties railway
from London was opened to Romford in 1839,
extended to Brentwood in 1840, and Colchester in
1843. (fn. 77) Squirrels Heath, later Gidea Park, station
was opened in 1910. (fn. 78) The line was electrified in
1949. The London, Tilbury, and Southend railway's line from Grays, opened to Upminster in
1892, was extended to Romford in 1893. (fn. 79) A separate
L.T. & S., later L.M.S., station was built in South
Street, opposite and linked with the G.E.R., later
L.N.E.R. station. The two stations were amalgamated in 1934, the L.M.S. entrance and booking
hall being closed and converted into shops. (fn. 80) At the
beginning of the present century attempts were
made to promote the building of tramways in
Romford. (fn. 81) They were unsuccessful, but in 1912 the
London General Omnibus Co. started services from
Mile End to Romford. (fn. 82) There was a civil aerodrome
at Maylands Farm, Harold Hill, for a few years up
to 1937. (fn. 83)
Romford was a post town by 1687. (fn. 84) In c. 1790
the post office was at the Cock and Bell inn, Market
Place. (fn. 85) It was in the market-place in 1838 and 1848,
and in High Street by 1863. (fn. 86) In 1870 it was in South
Street, where it has since remained. (fn. 87) A telegraph
line was being installed in 1869. (fn. 88)
Little remains in Romford that is older than the
19th century. (fn. 89) Even before modern development
began there had been much rebuilding. In the
Middle Ages there were manor-houses on 12 sites;
Mawneys, Stewards, Marshalls, East House, and
Gidea Hall were in or near the town, Wrightsbridge
at Noak Hill, Dagenhams, Cockerels, and Gooshayes
at Harold Hill, Risebridge near Chase Cross,
Gobions at Collier Row, and Marks on the northwest boundary. In 1976 there were houses on only
three of those sites: Gobions and Risebridge, both
rebuilt in the 19th century, and Wrightsbridge,
rebuilt in the 18th century and remodelled c. 1920.
Adjoining Wrightsbridge, however, is the former
Little Wrightsbridge, now Angel Cottages, which
dates from the late 14th or early 15th century, and is
Romford's oldest surviving building. (fn. 90) Of the
other large domestic buildings known to have
existed before the 19th century only five survive.
Crown Farm, formerly Pigtails, London Road, is a
late-16th- or early-17th-century house extended at
the back and re-arranged internally in the later 18th
century; further additions, for service rooms, were
made in the earlier 19th century. (fn. 91) Widdrington
Farm, formerly Wolves and Joyes, Church Road,
Noak Hill, stands on a medieval site. (fn. 92) It retains a
timber-framed cross-wing of the 17th century, but
the main range appears to have been reconstructed
in the 18th century, and the whole building was
encased in brick and re-roofed in the 19th century.
Maypole Cottage, Collier Row Road, is a timberframed house of the late 17th or early 18th century.
The Morris Dancer, formerly New Hall, Melksham
Close, Harold Hill, is an early-18th-century brick
building now serving as a public house.

HAVERING-ATTE-BOWER, ROMFORD, HAROLD WOOD, AND HAROLD HILL 1975
Hare Hall, Upper Brentwood Road, Gidea Park,
now part of the Royal Liberty school, stands on the
site of an earlier house called Goodwins. It is a small
Palladian mansion built in 1768–9 by John A.
Wallenger to designs by James Paine. (fn. 93) The main,
north front is of five bays, with a rusticated basement
storey, above which the two upper storeys are
unified by a giant attached portico and pilasters at
the angles. Attached to the south front by short
corridors there were pavilions containing service
rooms. The principal rooms were on the first floor,
and were approached by a central staircase with
curved ends and an iron balustrade. The main front
was of Portland stone, but the south front was of
red brick, and in 1896 the house was considerably
enlarged on that side by filling in the space between
the pavilions. The Royal Liberty school was opened
at Hare Hall in 1921, and in 1929–30 new red-brick
buildings were erected to the south of the old house,
forming a quadrangle. Nothing remains of the landscape designed by Richard Woods in 1771.
Among the more important old houses which have
disappeared in the present century, and of which
there are dated descriptions, were Lowland's Farm,
London Road, Hawkins atte Well, Pettits Lane
North, both of the 17th century, and Bell House,
Rush Green Road, of the late 16th. (fn. 94) Several other
old houses, possibly dating from the 16th century,
still survived c. 1880. They included Familiarum,
later Canons, North Street, and London House,
Market Place. (fn. 95)
Small houses built before c. 1800 have survived in
somewhat larger numbers. In the town there are
several in North Street and at the east end of the
market-place. The oldest of them, now nos. 98 and
100 North Street, is a timber-framed building of
the late 17th century. At Gidea Park nos. 202–10
Main Road, also timber-framed, are a group of
cottages of the late 18th or early 19th century,
surviving from the hamlet of Hare Street. There are
a few other cottages of that period in Noak Hill
Road, Noak Hill.
As a market town on the main London Road
Romford had many inns. In 1686 those in the town
contained beds for 139, and stabling for 404 horses,
and those at Hare Street 18 beds and stabling for
38. (fn. 96) In 1762 there were 22 licensed houses in the
town and 3 at Hare Street. (fn. 97) Of those in the town
only the Golden Lion, formerly known as the Lion or
the Red Lion, still functions in its ancient buildings (fn. 98)
The Lion existed in 1440, and there are later
references from 1501. (fn. 99) The building, which is
largely timber-framed, has a short elevation to
High Street, and a much longer one, with a visible
jetty, to North Street. It is made up of at least three
sections of various dates from the early 16th century
to the early 17th. That next to the corner was formerly
jettied on both streets, and has a carriageway
entrance in High Street. The next section along
North Street had a first floor gallery towards the
west, where there was an open court. The remaining
sections have been much reduced by fire, and much
altered internally, but are probably latest in date.
In the 18th century the High Street front was raised
by one storey and given a new brick elevation,
which was remodelled in the 19th century. The south
end of the courtyard is now built over. Recent
restoration has exposed much of the internal
timber framing.
Three other ancient inns in the town continue in
modern buildings. The White Hart, High Street,
can be traced from 1489. (fn. 100) During the Civil War it
was used for meetings of the Deputy Lieutenants
and Parliamentary Commissioners. In the later
18th century public entertainments were held in the
White Hart assembly room. (fn. 101) The inn was rebuilt in
1896. The King's Head, Market Place, existed in
1678. (fn. 102) It is said to have been rebuilt in 1714 and
again in 1898. (fn. 103) In 1971 the inn was moved to new
buildings in the Liberty. (fn. 104) The Lamb, Market
Place, mentioned in 1681, was rebuilt in 1852–3 after
a fire. (fn. 105) The Cock and Bell, formerly the Chequers,
Market Place, is no longer an inn, but its 16thcentury building survives as Church House. (fn. 106)
The Angel, which dated from 1488 or earlier, (fn. 107)
and the Crown, recorded from 1620, (fn. 108) both in High
Street, still existed in 1762, but had gone by 1864. (fn. 109)
The Coach and Bell, also in High Street, was recorded
by that name from 1694, and was probably identical
with the Bell, mentioned in 1595 and 1631. (fn. 110) It was
rebuilt in 1895 and demolished in 1956. (fn. 111) The
Dolphin, Market Place, recorded from 1630, was
closed in 1890 and demolished in 1900. (fn. 112) The Swan,
or White Swan, Market Place, existed in 1468. (fn. 113) Its
history has been traced from 1598 until 1967, when
it was demolished. (fn. 114) The inn signs of the Dolphin
and the White Swan are in Havering reference
library, Romford. The Duke of Wellington, Market
Place, was demolished in 1967. (fn. 115) Until 1914 it was
the Blücher's Head, a name which had presumably
been adopted c. 1815. (fn. 116) The Queen's Head, Market
Place, was mentioned in 1732, but was not among the
licensed houses in 1762. (fn. 117) The building still existed
c. 1908 as Charles Ellingworth's dining rooms. A
writer at that time thought that it was probably
identical with the Queen's Arms, mentioned as the
lodging of pretty Bessie in the Elizabethan ballad of
the 'Blind Beggar's Daughter of Bethnal Green'. (fn. 118)
In 1599 the comic actor William Kemp spent two
days at a Romford inn, not named, during his morris
dance from London to Norwich. (fn. 119)
At Hare Street, now Main Road, Gidea Park, the
Ship and the Unicorn both existed in 1762. (fn. 120) The
buildings of the Ship date from the later 16th or 17th
century, though much altered. (fn. 121) The Unicorn,
mentioned in 1679, and later, has been rebuilt in
modern Tudor style. (fn. 122) In 1762 there were 5 inns at
Collier Row and 3 at Noak Hill. (fn. 123) The Bear, Noak
Hill Road, Noak Hill, was formerly the Goat, and
was given its present name in 1715. (fn. 124)
During the agrarian boom of the mid 19th century
many farm-houses in Collier Row, Harold Wood,
and Noak Hill wards were built or rebuilt. At the
same time those areas, still rural but within a mile or
two of Romford station, were attracting the gentry,
and wealthy business men working in London. (fn. 125)
Notable among the new farm-houses was Heaton
Grange, Straight Road, built c. 1815 by John
Heaton, rebuilt c. 1905, and demolished c. 1955. (fn. 126)
Another example, still surviving as a community
centre at Harold Hill, is Red House, North Hill
Drive, built in 1873. (fn. 127) Lawn House, Lawnsway,
Collier Row now Lawn social club, was built c. 1850,
apparently by the owner of the adjoining windmill,
and was soon enlarged into a gentleman's residence,
in a small park. (fn. 128)
Harold Wood Hall, Neave Close, Harold Hill,
was built c. 1847, perhaps by William Heard, land
surveyor, who was living there 1848. (fn. 129) Later
occupants included Alexander Croll, c. 1859–63,
William George, c. 1876–8, and Edward Bryant,
c. 1890–1926. (fn. 130) Harold Wood Hall is now (1976) a
mental health day centre of Havering L.B. It is an
Italianate villa of double pile plan with a main front
of 5 days. Late in the 19th century it was extended
at both ends, and the interior was extensively
refitted. A small building in the grounds, used as an
elementary school, c. 1859–76, and as a nonconformist chapel, c. 1861–82, no longer exists. (fn. 131)
The Priory, later called Dagnam Priory, Wrightsbridge Road, Noak Hill, was built c. 1840 in a
curious mixture of Gothic and Tudor styles. (fn. 132) It
was demolished in 1956. (fn. 133)
Until the 19th century Romford's principal
public building, apart from the church, was the
court house of the liberty of Havering, which stood
at the west end of the market-place. It was demolished
in 1933. (fn. 134) The parish workhouse, North Street
(1787), and the Corn Exchange, High Street (1845)
have also been demolished, as well as St. Edward's
Hall and the Laurie Hall, already mentioned, but
Romford union workhouse (1838) survives as part
of Oldchurch hospital. (fn. 135) Romford county court,
South Street, built in 1858, was demolished in
1936. (fn. 136) Modern public buildings include the town
hall (1937), and the central library (1965), both in
Main Road.
During the 17th century military musters were
often held at Romford. (fn. 137) Troops were stationed in
the town during and after the Civil War, and
occasionally later. (fn. 138) In 1795, during the Revolutionary War with France, barracks for six troops of
cavalry were built in London Road. (fn. 139) They were
demolished c. 1825. (fn. 140) The Havering company of
volunteer cavalry was raised c. 1802 for service in
the Napoleonic Wars. (fn. 141) The Romford rifle volunteers were formed in 1859. (fn. 142)
The Liberty of Havering and district association
for the protection of property and the prosecution of
felons was founded in 1835. (fn. 143) Its area was gradually
extended, and by 1933, when there were about 50
members, included places as far apart as Woodford
and West Thurrock. The association, which met at
Romford, prosecuted offenders against its members
and offered rewards to persons helping to obtain
convictions. It eventually became an exclusive club
of farmers and tradesmen, popularly known as 'the
Felons', but it never entirely abandoned its original
aims. It was wound up in 1941 or shortly after.
Romford literary and mechanics' institute, founded
in 1848, survived for about 40 years. (fn. 144) Romford
philanthropic theatre, which in 1831 played for a
summer season in the town, contained professional
actors as well as amateurs. (fn. 145) The Laurie cinema, at
Laurie hall, was opened in 1913 and closed in 1939. (fn. 146)
By 1937 there were two other cinemas in the town,
and another was being built. (fn. 147) In 1951 there were four
in the town and another at Collier Row, but by 1971
only two survived, the Odeon, and the A.B.C. (threein-one), both in South Street. (fn. 148)
Horse races were being run at Romford in 1758. (fn. 149)
Occasional race meetings were also held there in the
1840s. (fn. 150) The Priory polo club, founded in 1887,
played at Dagnam Priory, Noak Hill, until 1895,
when it moved to Hutton. (fn. 151) Romford cricket club,
founded 1862, still survived in 1971. (fn. 152) Romford
football club, founded in 1929, soon became one of
the leading amateur clubs. (fn. 153) Romford golf club,
Gidea Park, was founded in 1894, (fn. 154) and Maylands
golf club, Harold Park, in 1937. (fn. 155) Romford swimming club was founded in 1902. (fn. 156) Romford greyhound
racing stadium, London Road, was opened near the
Crown hotel in 1929. (fn. 157) The present stadium, on
the opposite side of London Road, was opened in
1933. In 1974 some 70 sports clubs were meeting in
Romford. (fn. 158) At that date there were also about 50 cultural and recreational societies, with activities ranging
from wine-tasting to war games, and from morris
dancing to the study of underground railways.
That number does not include societies meeting in
Hornchurch, many of which were available to
Romford people, or religious, political, trade, or
professional bodies. Romford historical society,
founded in 1956, has since 1968 been publishing an
annual journal of local history.
Among persons connected with Romford were
Sir Anthony Cooke (d. 1576) of Gidea Hall, politician,
religious reformer, and tutor to Edward VI, and his
learned daughters, Mildred, wife of William Cecil,
Lord Burghley, and Katherine, wife of Sir Henry
Killigrew. (fn. 159) Seventeenth-century figures included
Francis Quarles (d. 1644), of Stewards, poet, (fn. 160)
Laurence Wright (d. 1657), physician, of Dagenhams, Joachim Matthews (d. 1659), of Gobions,
Parliamentary colonel and M.P. for Maldon, (fn. 161) and
William Mead (d. 1713), Quaker, of Gooshayes. In
the 18th century Gloster Ridley (d. 1724) and his
son James Ridley (d. 1765), both writers, were
successively curates of Romford. (fn. 162) Humphry Repton
(d. 1818), landscape artist, lived at Hare Street, in a
house at the corner of Balgores Lane which was long
known as Repton Cottage. (fn. 163) Anthony Grant
(d. 1883), vicar of Romford, and archdeacon of
St. Albans, was for many years an influential local
figure. (fn. 164) Thomas Bird (d. 1900) was a keen antiquary as well as chairman of the local board. (fn. 165)
A. Bennett Bamford (d. 1939), topographical artist,
lived at Romford for the earlier part of his life. (fn. 166)
Arthur S. Hunt (d. 1934), papyrologist, was born at
Romford Hall. (fn. 167) Kenneth Farnes (d. 1941), Essex
and England cricketer, was brought up at Gidea
Park. (fn. 168) Two conspirators are supposed to have
plotted at Romford: Thomas Blood (d. 1680), who
stole the Crown jewels, (fn. 169) and Christopher Layer,
Jacobite, who was executed in 1723. (fn. 170) John Wilson
(d. 1799), butcher of Romford, was notoriously
fat. (fn. 171)