ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY OF THE CASTLE
The castle of Windsor
appears first in history in the
Domesday Survey in connexion with the manor of
Clewer, which was held of
the king by Ralf son of Seifrid, but had formerly
belonged to Harold the Earl; 'then it was taxed for
5 hides, now for 4½ hides, and the castle of Windsor
is on the (other) half hide.' (fn. 1) The castle was thus a
new work, and there are no grounds for assuming it
to be older than the Conquest or that any part of
it occupies the site of defensive earthworks of earlier
date. (fn. 2)
Although the Survey does not ascribe its building
to King William, the castle was no doubt raised by
his orders, (fn. 3) and from the first it has been the special
stronghold of the Sovereign. This may account for
its exceptionally large area of some 13 acres within
the lines of defence, instead of the more usual 4 or 5.
It also fills a prominent place in the great series of
castles that were planted all over England by the
Conqueror to effect the subjugation of the country, (fn. 4)
and apparently forms one of a ring set about London
to keep the turbulent citizens in order, in addition to
the two castles within the city itself. (fn. 5)
Windsor Castle is placed upon the top of a steep
chalk cliff which rises almost abruptly from the south
bank of the Thames opposite Eton to a height of
100 ft. The site is protected by easily defended
slopes on the east and south, and has another slope
towards the west forming part of the castle area.
Although later walls and towers of masonry and
the filling in of the ditches have largely obscured the
original lines, it is clear that from the first Windsor
was a mount and bailey castle of the first rank, with
earthworks crested with timber palisades.
The lower or outer bailey covered the slope towards
the west and was defended by banks and ditches on
the south and west and by the cliff on the north;
at the south-west corner was the entrance. At the
upper end the lower bailey was crossed by the ditch
and bank of the middle bailey, which was continued
southwards round the base of the mount. The
mount itself is still intact and is about 50 ft. high and
100 ft. wide across the top, with a base nearly 300 ft.
in diameter. It was encircled by its own ditch, and
had on the north a narrow roadway leading into the
inner or upper bailey. This formed a square to the
east along the cliff, roughly of about 500 ft., with a
bank and ditch on the east and south joining up to
the defences of the middle bailey. Both the upper
and the middle bailey occupied the level ground on
top of the cliff. All the banks were no doubt crested
by lines of wooden palisades and the top of the
mount by a circle of the same inclosing a wooden
tower, like that of the castle of Dinan as shown in
the Bayeux Stitchwork. The cliff facing the river
was probably also crested with palisading, so as to
surround the castle with a continuous line of defence.
Such was the castle in the days of William the
Conqueror. During his reign nothing is recorded of
it by the historians or chroniclers, and for that of his
son the only fact noted is the imprisonment here of
Robert the governor or Earl of Northumbria in
1095. (fn. 6) Of Henry I it is stated that he held his
court at Whitsuntide in 1110 'at New Windsor,
which he himself had built.' (fn. 7) This probably refers
to the completion of the royal lodging in the upper
bailey, and the only Pipe Roll for the reign, that for
1130–1, notes a payment 'for the liveries of Nicholas
the keeper of the king's house at Windsor.' The
existence of a chapel within the castle is indicated by
the fact that King Henry was married in it to his
second queen, Adeliza.
With the reign of Henry II the documentary
history passes from the fitful references of historians to
the actual account of works entered on the Pipe Rolls
and other official records. For the first seven years
nothing was done, but the chaplain's pay of a penny
a day points to the maintenance of the chapel. From
1161–2 to 1171–2 considerable sums were spent,
chiefly on 'the king's houses,' and on the kitchen,
the chapel and the castle generally. References to
the castle works occur in 1169–70 and following
year, and again from 1172–3 to 1178–9, in which
seven years more than £663 were laid out upon them.
A large sum was also spent in 1171–2 and two
following years upon the wall about the castle.
From existing remains of the Norman period these
works seem to have included the building of the walls
and towers along the three sides of the upper bailey,
the rebuilding in masonry of the royal lodging on its
north side and of the great tower crowning the mount,
together with the stepped curtains connecting the
great tower with the bailey walls. Some progress was
also made with the walling in of the middle and lower
baileys, and in the case of the latter with the towers
along its north front. Since these works involved the
substitution of walls and towers of masonry for the
older timber defences, they no doubt followed the
original lines and continued to be strengthened by the
original ditches.
At the close of the 12th century, besides the great
tower on the mount and the royal lodging in the
upper bailey, there seem to have been in the lower
bailey a camera or lodging for the king, a chapel,
kitchens inclosed by hedges, a larder, and an almonry,
all of which involve the existence of the great hall of
which they were appendages; this is not, however,
specially mentioned until 1197–8.
Early in the reign of Richard I, while the king was
away on the third Crusade, Windsor Castle was successively in the hands of Hugh Bishop of Durham,
William Bishop of Ely (the chancellor), and Walter
Archbishop of Rouen, but at the beginning of 1193 it
and the castle of Wallingford were given up to John
Earl of Mortain, who had tried to raise a rebellion
against the king, his brother, during his imprisonment
abroad. John's tenure of Windsor was, however,
resented by the loyal barons, who tried to take it by
force, and after a siege of several weeks it was
surrendered through the influence of the Bishop of
Salisbury, Hubert Walter, and retained by him for the
king. Sundry repairs to the gate, bridge and other
buildings, 'which were broken and burnt … through
the war,' are entered on the Pipe Roll for 1194–5.
In 1216 occurred the memorable siege of the
castle already referred to. Notwithstanding the
damage that the castle must have sustained in this
siege, no effort was made to repair it until 1220–1,
when Engelard de Cygony (who was still constable) accounts for the building of a wall that had
been destroyed and other works. These seem to
have been only necessary outside repairs, but from
1222–3 onwards operations of a more extensive nature
were undertaken upon the great hall in the outer
bailey, the 'king's houses,' the 'houses on the mount,'
and the great tower that inclosed them. The repairs
occupied three years and included a considerable outlay on 'the works of the castle,' and expression usually
applied to the external defences. This probably
involved the substitution of new towers in place
apparently of the Norman towers at the south-west
corners of both the middle and upper baileys and
connecting them by a strong curved wall as a defence
to the great tower on the mount. At the same time the
remaining palisading of the lower bailey was replaced
by walls and towers of masonry along the north and
south sides. The completion of this essential work
is marked by a further charge in an account for
1227–30 'on the work of a wall with three towers,'
which there can be little doubt is that still forming
the western front of the castle. (fn. 8) On 14 January
1235–6 King Henry married Eleanor daughter of
Raymond Count of Provence, and in the following
year a lodging for the new queen was begun in
Windsor Castle.
The royal lodging at this time was the only
important block of buildings in the inner bailey. It
was substantially of late Norman date and stood
against the north wall about the middle of its length.
It seems to have included a hall, a chapel and a
chamber beside the hall, as well as a great chamber
for the king and a wardrobe adjoining; there must
also have been a kitchen, &c., while cellarage was no
doubt provided in the usual way by placing all the
living rooms on the first floor. The various buildings
were arranged about a court or cloister with covered
alleys, the garth of which was laid out as a herb
garden.
The new lodging built for the queen was apparently
a rebuilding of the western range, and extended
southwards from a Norman 'corner tower towards
the north,' which in 1241 was raised two stories, as
were two other Norman towers east of it in the
following year. The queen seems, however, to have
misliked her lodging, and in 1237 it was rebuilt
according to her wishes. Two years later the birth
first of a son and then of a daughter necessitated the
building of chambers and nurseries for them. These
seem to have been two-storied half-timbered structures
arranged about a second court to the west of the
queen's lodgings. At some time between the beginning of 1244 and Easter 1247 a large stone tower was
built upon the north side of the castle, apparently at
the north-west corner of the children's cloister, and
in 1253 this 'new tower which has been assigned to
our seneschals' was raised a story and releaded. For
the decade 1246–56 there are no entries relating to
the royal lodging, notwithstanding that, according to
Matthew Paris, the queen's apartments were damaged
by lightning in 1251. It is also to be noticed that
for the rest of the reign all the parts of the royal
lodging are described only as the queen's, as if they had
been given up to her and her growing family, while
the king's lodging was henceforth in the lower bailey.
Here there had been begun to be built in 1240 a
certain lodging for the king's use, with a lodging for
the queen under the same roof, and a certain chapel,
a sufficient space being left between the lodgings and
the chapel to make a certain grass plot. (fn. 9) These
buildings, which were apparently not finished until
about 1250, occupied the north-west corner of the
lower bailey, where remains of them still exist
amongst later work. They seem to have been largely
of carpentry, at any rate as to the upper floor, and
covered with lead.
In 1257 the queen's private apartments in the
upper bailey were again rebuilt, and early in 1258
the royal chapel which adjoined them was reconstructed and rearranged. These and other works
seem to have lasted on until 1262, after which nothing
further was done in the castle, on account of the state
of the king's and queen's affairs.
During the reign of Edward I, who was busily
occupied for most of his time in building castles elsewhere, no new works were undertaken at Windsor,
and the only matter worth noting is the destruction
by fire early in 1295–6 of the king's great chamber
in the outer bailey. (fn. 10)
Although Edward II, unlike his father, was constantly at Windsor, no important structural works were
done by or for him. An Account Roll for 1320–1
contains particulars of certain works done in brattices,
barriers and other engines made for the munition of
the said castle by reason of the perturbation of the
kingdom between the lord king and his earls, (fn. 11) but the
total cost was under £10. For the last seven years
of his reign the king hardly ever visited Windsor.
The beginning of the long reign of Edward III is
marked as regards the castle by an inquisition and
report made in September 1327 (fn. 12) of the state of the
walls, towers and buildings and of the repairs deemed
necessary by the jurymen. No steps, however, were
taken to act upon the report until apparently 1343–4
and 1344–5, (fn. 13) and for the first fifteen years of the
reign there is no important documentary history or
details of any large expenditure. The subsequent
repairs were only of minor character.
In February 1343–4 Edward III began a hall or
house for a proposed order of the Round Table and
the work continued for forty weeks, hundreds of men
being engaged upon it till the end of November,
when work ceased for the winter. (fn. 14) The building of
the Round Table house does not seem ever to have
been resumed. According to Thomas of Walsingham (fn. 15)
it was 200 ft. in diameter, and it must, therefore,
have stood in the court of the upper bailey, since
there is no other possible place for it. From concurrent references to the great tower on the mount,
which has only an internal diameter of less than
100 ft., it was undoubtedly a distinct and separate
building. Its fate is nowhere recorded.
The king, about the middle of 1348, founded the
order of the Garter. Many facts concur in fixing
upon Windsor as the place where, and 24 June as the
date when, the hastiludes that gave rise to the order
occurred, (fn. 16) and on 6 August Edward issued Letters
Patent substituting for the eight chaplains of St.
Edward's chapel in the castle, wherein he had been
baptized, a college of twenty-four canons (one of
whom was to be warden) and twenty-four poor
knights, a number which was at first that of the
knights of the order itself. (fn. 17) The Knights Companion were afterwards increased to twenty-six, and
in 1351 the College of Windsor was settled upon a
new establishment, consisting of a warden and twelve
other secular canons, thirteen priests or vicars, four
clerks, six choristers and twenty-six Poor Knights.
The Great Pestilence, better known as the Black
Death, ravaged England during 1348 and 1349, and
it was not until 1350 had set in that King Edward
was able to proceed with his plans in connexion with
his newly-founded order.
The first work undertaken was the refurnishing of
the 13th-century chapel of St. Edward (henceforth
to be associated with St. George) with canopied stalls
for the knights and canons of the Garter, a pew
for the queen, painted windows, and a wooden roof
above the vault, of great beams given by the Bishop
of Salisbury, together with a new belfry over the
western gable. The works in question were begun in
April 1350 and not finished until four years later.
On the east side of King Henry's cloister, north of
the chapel, were built a vaulted vestry (1350–1) and
a chapter-house (1350–2) with a lodging for the
warden, which also extended over the chapter-house.
To the north of the cloister stood the half-burnt
camera of Henry III. This was now cleared away
and on its site was raised, between January 1351–2
and the end of 1353, a two-storied half-timbered
cloister, with twenty-six sets of chambers for the
canons and their vicars. King Henry's cloister was
next rebuilt in stone, with a vaulted porch outside its
north-west corner, having above it a vaulted treasury.
The great hall, &c., in the lower bailey were henceforth used as such by the canons and vicars, for whom
a roasting-house was built in 1353 and a brew-house
and bake-house, with a mill, the following year. A
lodging was also built in 1353–4 for the Usher of
the Black Rod.
Besides these works a striking clock was set up in
the great tower in 1351, and between Michaelmas
1353 and the autumn of 1355 the buildings within
the great tower were undergoing reconstruction for
the temporary accommodation of the king and
queen pending a rebuilding of the royal lodging.
Of the foregoing works, those between April 1350
and August 1351 were carried out under the
supervision of Richard of Rothley, one of the new
canons. He was succeeded by another canon,
Robert of Burnham, who acted as clerk of the works
until the end of October 1356, when he in turn was
followed by William of Wykeham.
During Wykeham's first year of office the finishing
touches were put to the stone cloister and the apartments in the great tower completed for the king's
and queen's use.
The rebuilding of the royal lodging was begun in
1357–8 with a new gate-house or entrance tower in
the middle of the front, and contracts were made for
the replacing of the half-timbered western block by
more permanent stone buildings. In the same year
the Norman tower on the north-west of the middle
bailey was converted into a residence for the clerk of
the works, (fn. 18) and a stone belfry tower begun in the
lower bailey opposite the chapel, which was finished
the next year. These works were followed by the
rebuilding of the gate-house into the upper bailey and
in 1360 by the erection of a row of houses beside the
new belfry.
Wykeham was succeeded in November 1361 by
William of Mulsho, canon of Windsor, who held
office till April 1365. Under him the reconstruction
of the royal lodging was continued and completed.
The range of buildings east of the new entrance
tower was vaulted and enlarged and a new chapel
and hall placed upon the first floor. The western
block was finished by Wykehan's contractors and a
small tower called La Rose added at the south-west
corner. The courts or cloisters about which the
various ranges of chambers stood were also rebuilt,
and a kitchen court formed by the addition of several
new buildings, including a gate-house from the bailey.
Before William of Mulsho went out of office a
beginning had been made upon the building of
ranges of chambers against the outer walls of the east
and south sides of the upper bailey, and upon the
completion of the towers about it. These works
were eventually carried out under Mulsho's successor,
Adam of Hartington, who was clerk of the works
until the end of the reign, but his detailed accounts
do not carry the story beyond 1368. That for his
second year of office, when much of importance was
done, probably to the ranges and towers along the
east front, is unfortunately lost. The works along
the south front, which included the enlargement of
the 'Blaketoure,' the addition of a story to the large
13th-century tower on the south-west, and the
construction of a new vaulted entrance beside it, were
mostly carried out by 1367, in July of which year
the mason's lodge was given to the vicars of the
chapel.
During the reign of Richard II nothing beyond
ordinary repairs seems to have been carried out, and
the only fact of interest is the appointment in 1390
of Geoffrey Chaucer, esq., clerk of the works at
Westminster Palace, the Tower of London and elsewhere, to be clerk for three years of certain repairs
to St. George's chapel, 'which is threatened with
ruin, and on the point of falling to the ground unless
it be quickly repaired.' (fn. 19) Pending the repairs, of
which unluckily no details have been preserved, the
great hall in the lower bailey was temporarily fitted
up with an altar, stalls, and other furniture, for use as
a chapel.
The reign of Henry IV was also one of no
important works at Windsor beyond small repairs,
but in 1409 a grant was made by the king to the
dean and canons of a certain place within the castle
called Woodhaw, beside the great hall, to build
their houses for the vicars, clerks and choristers of
the chapel of St. George. (fn. 20) These houses seem to
have been built in 1415–16, but the roll of particulars is missing. As King Henry V was abroad
for a large part of his reign, no works beyond repairs
were carried out in the castle.
The reign of Henry VI, who was but a baby at
his accession, was not marked by any great works at
Windsor, and even before the king came of age he
began to be busied with the two colleges which he
founded at Cambridge and Eton in 1440. Sundry
repairs were of course carried out from time to time
in the castle, but the rebuilding in 1439–40 of the
lower part of the stair up to the great tower (then
called le donjon) was the only noteworthy event.
From the accession of Edward IV in March
1460–1 to the death of King Henry VI in 1471
nothing beyond minor repairs was done, but from
1476 onwards some important changes, of which
few details are forthcoming, were made in the king's
and queen's lodgings in the upper bailey. A more
notable work, however, was the building of the new
chapel of our Lady and St. George in the lower
bailey, to the west of the old chapel of St. Edward
and St. George. This was begun in 1475, but by
the time of the king's death and burial in it in 1483
the quire with its aisles, &c., was the only part roofed
in and fitted for use. A new chapter-house was also
built to the north of it in 1477 and the bells
transferred the same year from the old belfry to the
Clewer tower. From 1478 to 1481 the lodging of
the vicars to the west of the chapel was rebuilt and
now forms the so-called Horseshoe cloister.
For the short reigns of Edward V and Richard III
there are no accounts relating to the castle in
general. The fitting up of the quire of the new
chapel seems, however, to have gone forward, and in
1484 the bones of King Henry VI were removed
from Chertsey Abbey to Windsor and reburied in a
vault made for their reception on the south side of
the quire.
Owing to the paucity of records for the reign of
Henry VII there is no documentary evidence of the
works of his time, but they certainly included the
finishing of the new chapel begun by Edward IV, the
rebuilding of the old chapel of Henry III and
Edward III east of it as a Lady chapel, and the
erection of a 'tower' of chambers to the west of the
royal lodging in the upper bailey. The chapel
works were completed in 1508 and the Lady chapel
built between 1494 and 1498. The 'kyngs newe
tower' was begun about the same time, and
completed before the coming of the King of Castile
to Windsor in January 1505–6. (fn. 21)
According to Leland (fn. 22) and Lambarde (fn. 23) the only
work done in the castle by Henry VIII was the
rebuilding at some unrecorded date of the gate-house
at the lower end of the outer bailey, but certain
pay books of James Nedam, surveyor of the king's
manors, (fn. 24) record the construction between May
1533 and September 1538 of a 'new wharff' or
wooden gallery along the top of the cliff on the north
side of the castle, with a bridge at the east end into
the park. Various works were likewise undertaken
within the castle, including the whitewashing of walls
and ochring of ceilings of the royal apartments, to
render them more habitable for the new queen,
Anne Boleyn. There was also built out, before
1533, from the western part of the north front a
'new lodging called the Prince's lodging' for the
king's bastard son, the young Henry Duke of
Richmond and Somerset. Another important work
in the lower ward also belongs to this reign, the
building, at the cost and charges of Master James
Denton, one of the canons, in 1520 of a hall, &c.,
on the north side of St. George's chapel, for the
chantry priests and choristers to keep their commons
in. It was unfortunately destroyed in 1859, after
being for a long time converted into a canonical
residence.
King Henry VIII died on 28 January 1546, and
was buried on 16 February in the same vault in
St. George's chapel wherein Jane Seymour had been
laid to rest in 1537.
The short reign of Edward VI was marked by the
provision of a new water supply from Blackmore
Park, instead of the wells sunk in the chalk hitherto
used. It was begun in 1551, but the pipe was only
partially laid, when the work was temporarily stopped
in August 1553, a month after the king's death.
Under Queen Mary the work was resumed, but
not until the second half of 1555, during which the
pipe was finally brought into the castle, where it
ended in a gorgeous fountain or head-conduit built
in the middle of the upper ward in 1557–8.
One other work of this reign must be noticed, the
provision in 1557 and 1558 of a proper lodging in
the lower bailey of as many sets of chambers for the
thirteen Poor Knights of the order of the Garter
created under the will of Henry VIII.
For the first twelve years of Elizabeth's reign,
owing to the queen's parsimony, nothing was done in
the castle, and strong measures had at last to be taken
to save it from becoming too ruinous to live in.
During the ten years from 1570 onwards extensive
repairs were carried out, including the rebuilding of
the royal chapel in the upper ward at a cost of
£1,900. Four of the wooden bridges were also
rebuilt in stone, and a decent approach with gates
made along the south side of the castle into the Little
Park. The old timber 'wharf' of Henry VIII along
the north side was entirely rebuilt in masonry, with
a stone bridge and banqueting-house at the park end.
In 1582–4 almost the last addition to the castle was
made by the building of the gallery (now part of the
royal library) between Henry the Seventh's tower
and the inner gate-house west of it.
The story of the castle during the reigns of James I
and Charles I is one of repeated surveys and consequent repairs, which did not involve any important
changes. All these works ceased apparently in 1637
owing to the unhappy state of the kingdom, and in
October 1642 one of the earliest acts of the Civil War
that had just begun was the occupation of the castle
of Windsor by the Parliamentary forces.
While the castle was in the hands of the soldiery
the various members of the college of St. George,
saving apparently the Poor Knights, were turned out
of their houses, and the rich plate and ornaments of
St. George's chapel seized and sold, together with the
valuable metal work of the unfinished tomb of King
Henry VIII. (fn. 25) But the chapel itself seems not to
have been seriously injured, nor was any particular
damage done elsewhere in the castle, while special
pains were taken to maintain the water supply from
Blackmore Park.
In 1657–8 the last important addition to the castle
was made by the building, at the west end of the
lower ward, of a house for five more Poor Knights,
under a bequest of Sir Peter le Maire, augmented by
his brother-in-law Sir Francis Crane, after whom the
building was named. It was unfortunately destroyed
so recently as 1862.
For some time before the Restoration Elias Ashmole had begun collecting materials for his great
work on the order of the Garter, which was published in 1672. Among the illustrations is a valuable
series of views of Windsor Castle, drawn and engraved
by Wenceslaus Hollar between 1659 and 1663, which
are of special interest as showing the various stages of
its architectural history just described. The bird's-eye view from the south-east in particular is a most
valuable document, and forms a useful pendant to the
large coloured drawing made by Norden in 1607
from the opposite side of the castle. (fn. 26)
From 1660–1 to 1674 large sums were spent upon
the castle, mostly for repairs, which unfortunately
involved the demolition in 1671 of the old 'gunner's
tower' above the bridge from the lower into the
middle ward. This is shown for the last time in
Hollar's bird's-eye view.
In 1674 more old buildings and towers were
destroyed during preparations for rebuilding the
range of chambers forming the north-west section of
the royal lodging. This was now replaced by a four-storied block (fn. 27) of the plainest possible character
externally, but containing within on the main floor
a fine set of rooms begun to be decorated in 1676–7
with carvings by Grinling Gibbons and Henry
Phillipps, and in 1678 with painted ceilings and
gilded work by Verrio and Coussin. The other
rooms forming the royal lodging, including the king's
chapel and St. George's hall, were likewise refitted
and decorated to correspond, and the whole formed
into one splendid series henceforth called the State
apartments. The work upon these was completed in
1683–4. The rooms on the ground floor were also
rearranged and decorated and allotted to various high
officers of state, and the courts about which they
stood entirely remodelled. The buildings in and
about the kitchen court were included in the new
work.
The southern range of the upper ward was taken
in hand at the same time as the royal lodging, and
altered and decorated internally, chiefly for the use
of the king's brother, James Duke of York, and three
of the four towers on the east front practically rebuilt.
The great terrace along the north front was lengthened
westwards and reconstructed throughout, and new
terraces formed in continuation of it along the east
and south fronts.
The 'Sole Architect in Contriving and Governing
the Workes in the Great Alterations made by his
Majtie in that Castle,' to quote from his coffin-plate
at Mid Lavant, was Hugh May, who was controller
of works from November 1673 till his death in
February 1683–4, when he was succeeded by Sir
Christopher Wren.
During the course of the works just described the
House of Commons on 30 January 1677–8 voted
£70,000 for defraying the expenses of a solemn
interment of his late Majesty King Charles I and the
erection of a monument to his memory. (fn. 28) The money
was paid over to the king, and a design made by Sir
Christopher Wren for the proposed memorial, which
was to be built to the east side of St. George's chapel
on the site occupied by Henry the Seventh's Lady
chapel. Wren's scheme was not adopted, but certain
repairs were done to the old Lady chapel in 1680–2,
apparently in view of a memorial to the late king,
and in 1682–4 its walls and ceilings were elaborately
decorated by Verrio. Further works were stopped
by King Charles's death on 6 February 1684–5.
During the short reign of James II various minor
changes were made in the new buildings, including
the refitting of both the king's and the queen's
chapels and such little improvements and alterations
as usually follow a change of tenant. The great
works, however, had all been finished for King
Charles II. A planting of 240 young elm trees in
1684–6 'in ye upper and lower Avenue' apparently
marks the beginning of the famous Long Walk in
Windsor Park.
King James's reign ended in December 1688, and for
many years after no more important works were done
in the castle. Both King William and Queen Mary
seem to have preferred Hampton Court to Windsor,
and expended their energies upon improving and
enlarging it. Towards the end, however, of King
William's sole reign a great scheme for transforming
Windsor after the manner of Hampton Court was
drawn up by Sir Christopher Wren which would
have involved the destruction of nearly all the remaining old buildings. Fortunately it was never adopted.
Beyond the usual necessary repairs nothing of note
was done in the castle during the reign of Queen Anne,
who devoted herself chiefly to the laying out of the
grounds about the castle. The work was mostly
confined to the Home Park, under the direction of
Henry Wise, and the effect of the resulting series of
banks and terraces (now obliterated) on the north
front of the castle is well shown in Kip's view, published in 1709. (fn. 29) The road along the Long Walk
was made in 1710 and an extensive series of gardens,
&c., which were never finished, was apparently in
course of construction (fn. 30) when the queen died in
August 1714.
From the death of Queen Anne to the end of the
18th century Windsor Castle, save for ordinary
repairs, was left alone. Both George I and George II
preferred Hampton Court and Kensington Palace,
and, although George III eventually developed a strong
liking for Windsor, the castle, except as regards the
interior of St. George's chapel, remained unaltered
down to 1800.
The straitened accommodation which the castle
afforded for a king with a large family, like George III,
partly accounts for this, and the difficulty was met,
not by enlarging the castle, but in another way. To
the south of the upper ward a house had been built
shortly before 1690 and bought for the residence of
Prince George of Denmark and the Princess Anne.
Between 1778 and 1782 this house was enlarged for
the use of Queen Charlotte, and was henceforth
known as the Queen's Lodge. Nell Gwyn's old
house, which stood just south of it, was also bought,
and converted in 1779 into the 'Queen's Lower
Lodge' for the reception of the four younger
princesses.
During the alterations to these two houses a large
quantity of rubbish and excavated material had to be
dealt with, and this was most readily done by shooting
it into the castle ditch along the south front, which
was thus filled up, much to the detriment of the
appearance of the castle. (fn. 31)
Between 1782 and 1792 extensive repairs and
alterations were made in St. George's chapel, chiefly
at the king's expense.
From 1800 onwards a number of works were
carried out under the direction of James Wyatt (who
had been appointed surveyor in 1796) with the object
of converting the plain style of the exterior of the
buildings in the upper ward, as left by May, into
the Gothic manner which was now coming into vogue.
All the windows within and without were thus
gradually converted and new string-courses and battled
parapets added where necessary. Stucco turrets were
added to the upper corners of the north front of the
Star Building, together with a porch from the terrace,
and a porch was built in front of the 'gothicized'
entrance tower to the State apartments. Within this
latter a new lobby and great staircase replaced May's,
and various other changes were made throughout
the State apartments generally. The 17th-century
arrangements in Horn Court were destroyed, and in
their place was built a two-storied Gothic cloister.
A new tower called the Blenheim tower was likewise
raised on the north front at the end of the king's
guard chamber. From 1801 to 1804 a series of
repairs was carried out on the 'tombhouse,' as the
old Lady chapel in the lower ward was called, and
in 1810 a vault was constructed beneath it as a
burying-place of the royal family. All work was
stopped about 1814 owing to the unhappy state of
the king, who from 1811 to his death in 1820 was
hopelessly insane.
Shortly after the accession of George IV steps were
taken to convert the buildings about the upper ward
into a comfortable residence for the sovereign.
Hitherto there had been no direct communication
between the State apartments on the north and the
lodgings on the east and south sides usually occupied
by the royal family and visitors of distinction, and
the maids of honour and lords and gentlemen in
attendance could only reach their quarters by crossing
the open quadrangle. There was also little privacy
for the king and queen when living in State apartments to which the public were admitted. It was
therefore decided to construct new lodgings for the
sovereign along the east front and to connect the
whole of the buildings about the ward by a two-storied gallery against the east and south sides. Had
this been the only object of the proposed changes
little alteration would have been made in the castle,
but they unfortunately included others which involved
the needless destruction of many ancient features
that might well have been spared.
The new works were entrusted by a commission
appointed to carry them into effect to Jeffrey Wyatt,
a nephew of the late surveyor James Wyatt, and on
12 August 1824 the first stone was laid by the king,
who on the same day authorized the architect to
change his name to Wyatville and granted him an
augmentation of his arms.
The works were carried on with great energy, and
on 9 December 1828 the king was able again to take
up his residence in the castle, when he conferred upon
the architect the honour of knighthood.
From the beginning Wyatville's expenditure seems
largely to have exceeded his estimates, and instead of
the £150,000 first voted by Parliament more than
half a million had been spent upon the alterations by
1830. (fn. 32) A select committee was accordingly appointed
to inquire into the expense of completing them,
before which Sir Jeffrey Wyatville tendered explanations. He also submitted a statement of the works
carried out since 1824 to the following effect:
A List of the Works that have been done,
beginning on the South Side.
Twelve old houses have been pulled down and
cleared away.
The boundary wall to the round tower mound on
the east has been built.
The new St. George's gate and adjoining walls,
also wall and stairs up the slope to the round tower
on the south side.
A new octagon turret to the Devil's tower has
been built.
The Devil's tower repaired externally, and the old
gateway apartments adjoining.
The Lancaster tower, containing six stories, and
100 ft. high.
King George the Fourth's gateway.
The York tower, containing six stories, and
100 ft. high.
The line of building extending to the south-east
tower has been repaired and raised an additional story,
200 ft., exclusive of towers.
The top part of the south-east or King's tower,
which, with the corbels and battlements, required fully
1,000 tons of stone; there were also five stories of
windows, with stone tracery, inserted in this tower.
The library or Chester tower has been rebuilt, and
is five stories high.
Part of the walls and all the flues of the dining
room or Prince of Wales's tower have been rebuilt.
Many of the cross walls betwixt the towers from
the Devil's tower to the last-named tower at the
north-east angle are new, and others have been raised
to form servants' apartments for the length of 380 ft.,
having new timbers and floors. The roofs have also
been new for the same length.
The Brunswick tower, upwards of 100 ft. high
and 40 ft. in diameter, containing seven stories, has
been entirely rebuilt.
The King's passage on the north side and the great
window and George the Third's tower at the end of
the ballroom are entirely new.
There have been new windows with tracery inserted
in the throne room, presence chamber and state
drawing room; the walls over this last room have
been carried up to form King George the Fourth's
tower.
A new turret on the north-west angle of the Stuart
buildings.
Within the quadrangle or upper ward the new
grand entrance tower has been built, being 40 ft.
square and 73 ft. high.
The front of the old private chapel and St. George's
Hall, 200 ft. long and 60 ft. high, has been refaced,
and has new windows, new battlements, &c.
The kitchen gateway and two octagon towers, each
78 ft. high, have been rebuilt, containing staircases,
bedrooms, &c.
The gallery of communication on the south and
east sides of the quadrangle, leading from the Devil's
tower to St. George's Hall, a length of 550 ft.,
including the king's private entrance, with breakfast
room over the king's private staircase and visitors'
entrance, lined with Gothic stonework, the whole
being two stories in height, is quite new.
The statue has been removed and erected upon a
new pedestal, constructed with a fountain and basin
on each side.
The water-service pipes have been laid round the
quadrangle and various cocks applied to throw water
on the building in case of fire.
The new terrace about 1,060 ft. long, some parts
of the walls are 30 ft. from the foundation, and
the orangery under part of the terrace.
The boiler-house and gardeners' rooms, forming
the north bastion which widens the terrace.
The steps down to the garden from the east terrace.
Another flight of steps from the garden on to the
new terrace.
Repairs of the southern and eastern old terraces.
Part of the road to the south towards the long
walk.
Lowering the courtyard from three to six feet;
removed 13,000 cubic yards.
Draining a large drain along the east and south
sides of the quadrangle and cross-drains.
New pumps to the engine on the Thames and
additional service-pipes from ditto to the Round
tower.
A great part of the Round tower is rebuilt. (fn. 33)
Internally.
The visitors' apartments, beginning at the Devil's
tower turret and continuing along part of the south
side.
His Majesty's apartments, beginning at part of the
south side and continuing along the east, and including
the Octagon tower on the north, containing the queen's
drawing room, bedrooms, dressing rooms, bath, &c.;
His Majesty's ante-room, bedroom, writing room,
wardrobe, small drawing or dining room, library,
great drawing room, dining room, beaufette room
and orchestra, also the gallery or corridor, 500 ft. long.
The servants' passage in the north front.
The kitchen apartments, &c.
Confectionery apartments.
Steward's room, servants' hall, &c.
The beer cellar and wine cellar.
State apartments.
|
| The guardroom |
are all in a forward state. |
| St. George's Hall |
| The ballroom |
A comparison of this list with the plan will illustrate the drastic nature of some of Wyatville's changes
in the upper ward. On the north front are his
George the Fourth's tower and Cornwall tower,
with the gallery masking the kitchen which extends
to his new Brunswick tower. This displaces one of
Norman date. The east front has been entirely
altered in appearance by the new oriel and other
windows inserted in it and by the formal garden laid
out before it. On the south side the York tower
has been cased and raised, the new Lancaster tower
built as its companion, and George the Fourth's gateway made between them through the range, in line
with a new prolongation northwards of the Long
Walk. The old gateway further west has been
blocked and masked and largely destroyed. The
appearance of this side has been entirely changed
through the heavy tops to the towers and the added
stories towards the east. The St. George's gateway
and the turret alongside the 13th-century tower are
new.
Within the upper ward new porches have been
added on the west of the State apartments and
a new entrance tower made in the middle of the
south front, to the destruction of the Edwardian
gate-house behind. The old kitchen gate-house is also
masked and blocked by a new one, from which the
new two-storied gallery extends southwards. The
south-west corner of the ward is filled by the new
sovereign's entrance, and from it the new gallery is
continued along the south range. (fn. 34) A further unfortunate change was the filling up of the section of
the mount ditch within the ward and the needless
removal and 'restoration' of the pedestal of the
equestrian figure of Charles II.
The changes within the State apartments have
resulted in the obliteration, except in three rooms, of
all Verrio's painted ceilings and the destruction of
nearly all the beautiful carvings of Gibbons and
Phillipps. The old chapel has disappeared and its
area been added to St. George's Hall, which thus
becomes of inordinate length.
In the middle ward the Round tower has been
cased internally and raised with a hollow wall to
twice its former height. The curving walls inclosing
the ward on the south were destroyed and replaced
by a new wall on a different line; all the old Black
Rod and other lodgings in rear were also destroyed.
The Stuart guard-house adjoining the Winchester
tower was also pulled down and replaced by a block
of offices.
It was part of Wyatville's scheme to remove and
rebuild all the quaint houses of the dean and canons
in the lower ward and to effect other drastic changes
within and without it; but these works were
fortunately not carried out.
George IV died on 26 June 1830, while the great
cost of Wyatville's works was being considered, and
was succeeded by his brother William Duke of
Clarence.
During the short reign of King William IV the
alterations then in progress were completed, including
the formation of the Waterloo Chamber in the upper
part of the old Horn Court.
The reign of Queen Victoria, despite its length,
from 1837 to 1901, was not marked by any great
changes in the castle, the most noteworthy being the
formation by Blore of a private chapel (to replace that
destroyed by Wyatville) in the upper story of the old
kitchen gate-house, and of a new grand staircase to
the State apartments, designed by Salvin. In the
lower ward various restorations were effected in the
Military Knights' residences, St. George's chapel and
its cloister and the Horseshoe cloister, as well as a
gradual gothicizing and modernizing of the north
front of the canons' houses. A sad chapter of destruction has also to be recorded of the old canons' chapterhouse, the fine hall, &c., forming Denton's Commons,
and the whole of the north-east wing of the Horseshoe cloister in 1859; and of the Cromwellian Crane's
buildings in 1862, to be replaced by a dull-looking
guard-house designed by Salvin. In 1863 the Clewer
tower was transformed in appearance by recasing it
and concealing the quaint belfry on top under a high
French-looking conical roof. Lastly, in 1874, the
conversion, at the queen's expense, was completed of
the old Lady chapel of Henry VII, long known as
the tomb-house, into a memorial chapel for Albert
the Prince Consort, who died in 1861.
The brief reign of Edward VII was not marked
by any other than such internal changes in the royal
apartments as were inevitable and necessary at the
close of a long tenancy, and nothing has yet been
done under the rule of George V.
The elevated position of Windsor Castle and its
picturesque outline make it a striking object from
many points of view, especially from the north and
north-west, and a particularly attractive aspect of it,
with a constantly changing perspective, may be enjoyed
when approaching Windsor from Slough by the Great
Western railway. The great length of the castle, of
nearly 1,600 ft., can also be realized by viewing it
from the Eton end of Windsor Bridge. From the
south side the castle cannot well be seen except when
the trees in the park are leafless, but there is a charming distant view of it from St. Leonard's Hill.
The old fortress-like appearance of the castle is
still noticeable when it is approached from either of
the two railway stations, but owing to the many
windows that have been made in the outer walls
during the last hundred years and the filling in of
the ditches it assumes a more domestic character on
further inspection.
The chief entrance is through Henry the Eighth's
gateway. It was once approached by a drawbridge
over the ditch formerly in front of it, but now by a
modern causeway. This leads to a vaulted passage,
with a chamber over it, anciently the court room of
the honour of Windsor, flanked by two large polygonal towers. These are continued inwards to form
three stories of chambers, access to which and to the
old court room over the passage is gained by two tall
octagonal stair turrets on either side of the entrance.
The lower ward, into which the gate-house opens,
slopes from west to east with a gradual rise of 27 ft.,
and is for the most part occupied by the buildings
of the Dean and Canons of Windsor. The most
notable of these is the great chapel of St. George in
the middle of the ward, with the old vicars' lodging,
now the Horseshoe cloister, to the west, and the
Albert Memorial chapel to the east. Behind these,
towards the north, are a number of buildings of
various dates, including the old cloister of Henry III
and the long and narrow court with the houses of the
canons and their vicars built by Edward III. South
of St. George's chapel, against the castle wall, are the
residences of the Military Knights.
St. George's chapel has a total length of 237 ft.,
and consists of a presbytery and quire of seven bays,
with aisles extending a bay further east and connected
by an ambulatory, a crossing with north and south
transepts ending in half-octagon chapels, and a nave
and aisles of seven bays with polygonal chapels flanking
the west end. Another polygonal chapel, carried up
as a three-storied tower, stands at the south-east corner
of the chapel, and is balanced on plan by a low
rectangular vestry on the north. Just east of the
south transept a small chantry chapel is built between
the buttresses, and to the west of it is a modern
porch covering the south door. There is a corresponding north door, but the principal entrance is
the little used one in the west front. A fourth doorway opens from the chapel at its north-east corner
into the cloister.
Externally the chapel is noteworthy for its polygonal projections, its continuous series of large clear
story windows and flying buttresses and the lofty
domed stair turrets at the west end. The buttresses
are carried up with tall square pedestals that formerly
supported stone figures of 'the king's beasts' holding
gilt vanes; but these were unfortunately taken down
in the 17th century as being unsafe. They can be
seen in Hollar's bird's-eye view. In five places below
the windows are large rayed roses, each charged with
a crucifix and crowned, which were meant to serve
as part of the series of consecration crosses.

Windsor Castle: The Lower Ward looking East
The most interesting section of the interior is the
ambulatory behind the high altar. The east side of
this is the lower part of the west front of Henry the
Third's chapel, with a wide-pointed doorway flanked
by two arched recesses of similar design and height.
The door is covered with rich 13th-century ironwork, stamped in places with the name of the maker,
'GILEBERTVS.' The west side of the ambulatory is
decorated with panelling and has towards its south end
the recently erected screened entrance to the royal
vault. The panelled stone ceiling of the ambulatory
is of the reign of Henry VII. The first bay of the
south aisle forms a vestibule to the chapel south of it,
and has on the key of its fan vault figures of Edward IV
and Bishop Beauchamp kneeling on either side of the
famous Cross-Neyt (fn. 35) given to St. George's chapel by
Edward III. The polygonal chapel to the south was
built to contain the relics of Master John Shorne,
the saintly rector of North Marston, Bucks. (fn. 36) Licence
to move his remains hither was granted by Pope
Sixtus IV in 1478, and the chapel must immediately
have been built to receive them; the enterclose for
it was being made in 1480–1. The chapel is now
nearly filled by the alabaster tomb with effigies of
Edward (Clinton) Earl of Lincoln, K.G., ob. 1584–5,
and his third wife the Lady Elizabeth Fitz Gerald.
The earl's effigy shows him lying bare-headed in full
armour. Round his left leg is the garter, and on
his knee-pieces are anchors, in allusion to his office
of lord high admiral. About the sides of the tomb
are kneeling figures of the earl's children by his first
and second wives. On the west wall of the chapel is
a delicately carved and coloured alabaster panel with
the earl's armorial ensigns. The chapel has a fan
vault, and is now inclosed by an Elizabethan iron
grate. (fn. 37)
The arch into the aisle west of the Lincoln chapel,
as it is now called, has a deep recess in each jamb.
That on the north contains an old Bible, but formerly,
as the painted inscription below shows, a copy of
(probably) the Sarum Porthos, laid there by Bishop
Beauchamp, whose arms occur below the opposite
recess, in which was displayed some notable relic,
perhaps at times the Cross-Neyt itself. The aisle
windows here and throughout the building consist
of two pairs of cinquefoiled lights, in three tiers,
flanked by narrow blind panels. These divisions are
continued downwards to form a series of wall panels
resting on a stone bench, which runs all round the
chapel. Upon the bench stand the vaulting shafts.
The south aisle is covered throughout with a fan
vault with carved keys, which include the arms of
Henry VII, Henry VI, Arthur Prince of Wales and
Dr. Oliver King. The arms of Henry VI occur in
the same bay in which his remains were reburied
after their removal from Chertsey in 1484, and those
of Oliver King before the little chantry chapel built
by him outside the aisle, apparently between 1493
and 1496. Under an arch between the aisle and the
chapel is the bishop's tomb or cenotaph, and on the
opposite side of the aisle is a row of panels painted
for him with figures of Edward the first-born son of
Henry VI, Edward IV, Edward V and Henry VII.
The aisle also contains, against the fifth arch on the
north side, the chantry chapel, inclosed by elaborate
stone screenwork, of John Oxenbridge, canon from
1509 to 1522. The angel cornices and niches within
deserve notice, and likewise the panel paintings, dated
1522, with the passion of St. John Baptist, that cover
the north side.
In the bay west of Oxenbridge's chapel are the
stone doorway and iron grate that inclosed until 1824
the chapel of Dr. Christopher Urswick in the nave.
Under the third arch in this aisle is the grave of
Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, brother-in-law of
King Henry VIII, and the helm on the pillar near
by probably formed part of his funeral achievements.
The easternmost bay of the north aisle of the quire
is covered with a fan vault with the rayed rose badge
of Edward IV, and forms a vestibule to the vestry
which extends northwards from it through a doorway inserted in 1785. The vestry measures 26 ft.
by 15 ft., but has been much modernized, and only
its wooden roof is old. Its north end abuts upon
the canons' porch, built temp. Edward III, and
contains its rich but mutilated doorway. Within
the vestry are the great sword of Edward III that
formerly hung over the sovereign's stall in the chapel
of St. Edward and St. George, and a full-length
picture of him painted in 1615.
The two next bays of the aisle formed originally
the lower chapel of the founder, Edward IV, and
within the first arch of the presbytery, under which
he was buried, is the king's unfinished tomb of black
marble, beside which is fixed a funeral helm. Opposite
it is a doorway into a small chamber with a (blocked)
fireplace built outside the aisle, and westward of this
another doorway opening into a vice to an upper chapel.
This is 40 ft. long by 12½ ft. wide, and was built,
in accordance with the will of Edward IV, above
the vault of the three bays of the aisle just described,
to contain an altar, and another tomb with the king's
image of silver-gilt or, at the least, copper and gilt.
The tomb seems never to have been set up, but the
chapel was finished before the king's death in 1483.
It has unfortunately been modernized internally, but
still retains its windows: one on the south, another
on the east and three on the north. In its west wall
is a little oriel window looking down the aisle, and
in its south side were two larger oriel windows
towards the presbytery. The westernmost remains,
but the other has given place to a deeper oriel of
wood with traceried panels, inserted temp. Henry VIII.
The chapel is now subdivided by Georgian Gothic
partitions into two wainscoted pews or closes with
fireplaces for the royal family and their suite. The
vault that carries it, which is kept low for the purpose,
has upon its keys the arms and badges of Edward IV,
but the higher vault to the west is of the time of
Henry VII, and two of its keys bear the arms of
Thomas Fitz Alan Lord Maltravers, 1461–87, and
of William Lord Hastings, beheaded in 1483. In
the same bay as the latter, on the south side, stands
the beautiful stone chantry chapel of Lord Hastings,
within which he is buried. It closely resembles the
Oxenbridge chapel, which was obviously copied from
it, and is decorated within by a series of contemporary painted panels with the passion of St. Stephen.
Before leaving the quire aisles mention may be
made of certain modern monuments in them. In the
south aisle, at the east end, stands the life-size marble
statue of the German Emperor Frederick, who died
in 1888, in uniform and military cloak, with the
collar of the Garter, and in the north-west corner,
under Oliver King's painted panels, is a tomb of red
serpentine and white marble with inlaid brass cross,
erected by Queen Victoria in memory of Mary
Duchess of Gloucester, who died in 1857. In the
north aisle, under the third arch, is a statue in white
marble of William Earl Harcourt, G.C.B., who died
in 1830, under the fifth arch is a marble bust of
Lt.-Gen. Sir John Elley, K.C.B., K.G.H., who died
in 1839, and in the sixth arch a white marble tomb
and recumbent effigy of the Hon. Gerald Wellesley,
for twenty-eight years Dean of Windsor, who died in
1882.
The crossing of the chapel is oblong in plan, and
has on every side a tall four-centred arch with flat
sides and soffit, relieved by panelling. Across the
eastern arch is a Gothic gallery, which carries the
organ, built of Coade's artificial stone in 1790–1,
in place of the earlier gallery figured by Hollar. The
new gallery, which was designed by Emlyn, has to
the nave an open arcade of five arches, with a similar
arch at each end with panelled parapet above. Beneath
is the main entrance into the quire, through a wide
square-headed opening fitted with a pair of richly
carved doors of the same date as the stalls. Like all
the other doors within the chapel these are solid as
to the lower half, but have the upper part of open
tracery filled with simple iron grates.
The quire is separated from the aisles by four-centred arches with continuous mouldings, divided
from the clearstory by panelling surmounted by a
continuous row of feathered angels with outspread
wings carrying scrolls. The clearstory windows are
tall pointed openings similar to those in the aisles.
In front of each pier, rising from an angel corbel at
some height up, is a group of shafts carrying the
vault; not that for which provision was first made,
but a rich one copied from the nave vault, contracted
for by, probably, the same freemasons, John Hylmer
and William Vertue, in June 1506, to be finished by
Christmas 1508. (fn. 38) The numerous keys display various
royal and other badges, including those of all the then
English knights of the Garter who contributed to the
cost, which was £700. The seven pendants forming
the principal keys bear the arms of St. George,
St. Edward, King Henry VII and his rose and portcullis badges. The great east window of the quire, of
fifteen lights, with painted glass by Clayton & Bell,
is a restoration by Scott of one taken out in 1786 to
make way for a huge transparency by West depicting
the Resurrection. The quire of golden angels round
the window and the altar piece below it, with the
Ascension in white marble, are also from Scott's
designs.
South of the altar, over the quasi-sedilia, hangs a
panel of Arras tapestry, copied from Titian's picture,
which was formerly in the castle, of Christ and the
two disciples at Emmaus. It was given to the chapel
by John Viscount Mordaunt, constable of the castle
in 1660, and at one time was hung over the altar.
The arch north of the altar and that next to it are
lower than the rest, owing to Edward the Fourth's
chapel behind them. The first was blocked by the
existing panelling in 1790, and in front of it was placed
the magnificent pair of iron gates that once formed
the western boundary of the king's chapel in the aisle.
These beautiful gates and the open traceried towers
between which they are hung are formed of numerous
superposed pieces of thin pierced and hammered iron
carefully pinned together, and were almost certainly
made under the direction of John Tresilian, the
principal smith, who was working at Windsor from
1477 onwards at the high wage of 16d. a day.
The splendid canopied oak stalls of the knights of
the Garter ranged along both sides of the quire and
returned against the screen at the west end were
begun to be made as early as 1478, and were apparently all fixed in their places by 1485. There were
originally four returned stalls on each side and twenty-one more in front of the arcades, or fifty in all, but
two more stalls were added on both sides in 1786,
and the number is now fifty-four. There is also a
lower row on each side of ten and nine old stalls,
with two Georgian added to the latter, with beautiful
carved texts above them in front of the upper desks
from the 20th and 84th Psalms. The lower desks
are richly panelled, with sculptures in the spandrels,
and have below them seats and desks for the choristers
and towards the east for the Military Knights. Both
ranges of stalls have misericordes with the usual
delightful diversity of carved devices and subjects.
The rich effect of the stallwork is greatly enhanced by
the painted banners of the knights of the Garter that
hang above them, the crested helms and wooden
swords that surmount the canopies, and the glittering
stall-plates affixed to the panelling; the display of all
which is enjoined by the statutes of the order of the
Garter. The stall-plates date, with some few earlier
exceptions, from 1421, since which there is a fairly
perfect continuous series down to to-day. (fn. 39) The
oldest plates are of copper, silvered or gilded, with the
arms, &c., in enamel, and are to be found in the
alternate stalls originally set apart for the Knights
Companion. The Stuart and later plates are mostly
of gilt brass, with the arms merely painted, sometimes
over engraving. Recently there has set in a reversion
to the old fashion of brilliantly enamelled plates.
Taken as a whole the series of stall-plates forms such
a storehouse of ancient and modern historical armoury
as exists probably in no other church in Europe.
In the middle of the quire is the gravestone laid
down in 1818 to mark the vault containing the
remains of Henry VIII, Jane Seymour and Charles I.
Further west stands the fine early 16th-century latten
desk from which the lessons are read, anciently used
by the chanters when the quire was ruled.
The organ upon the loft at the entrance of the
quire was built by Green in 1790 and given to the
chapel by George III. Its Gothic case was designed
by Emlyn.
It was originally intended that the crossing of the
chapel should be carried up as an open lantern with
glazed sides, and a strong effort was made from 1515
onwards to obtain subscriptions from the knights of
the Garter towards the completion of it and a proper
rood-loft. The project was, however, eventually abandoned, and in 1528 the crossing was ceiled instead
with the existing fan vault, painted with the arms of
the several knights. The beginnings of the proposed
lantern are still to be seen above it.
The north arch of the crossing was formerly spanned
at about half its height by a loft in the form of a stone
gallery, with a slight pulpit-like projection facing south.
It was inserted in the reign of Henry VIII, but for
what purpose is uncertain. It was needlessly destroyed
in 1789.
The north and south transepts are identical in plan,
and have not only a window like that of the aisles in
each of their sides, but an upper series in continuation
of the clearstory, rising from a similar sculptured quire
of angels. The consequent effect is that of a great
glazed lantern. Each is covered too by a richly
groined vault with various devices and badges on the
keys. The polygonal apses are shut off from the
oblong bay next the crossing by open traceried stone
screens surmounted by the armorial ensigns of
Sir Reynald Bray, K.G., and formed chapels. That
to the north is the Rutland chapel, within which a
chantry was founded in 1481 by Sir Thomas St. Leger
in memory of his wife Anne Duchess of Exeter and
sister of Edward IV, who was buried in it. In the
middle stands an alabaster tomb with fine recumbent
effigies of Sir George Manners, Lord Roos, who died
in 1513, and his wife, the lady Anne daughter of the
Duchess of Exeter, who died in 1526. Along the
sides are figures of their children and upon the ends
angels, all holding shields. On a bracket in the east
window is a large funeral helm that may belong to
this tomb. The place of the altar is marked by a
cornice, under the window, of sculptured angels like
those in the Hastings and Oxenbridge chapels.
The south transept formed the Bray chapel, and
was apparently appropriated by his executors for the
burying place and monument of Sir Reynald Bray, K.G.,
notwithstanding his desire to be buried elsewhere.
It was accordingly enriched by the addition of
canopied niches for images upon the vaulting shafts,
by the insertion of a reredos over the altar, and of
large panels of Della Robbia ware, 50 in. square,
under each of the other four windows. These panels
have unfortunately all been destroyed, and only the
frame remains of that under the south-east window
around the alabaster monument of Sir Richard
Wortley (ob. 1603). The reredos, which consisted of
tabernacle work and imagery, is also partly destroyed,
through the insertion in it of the monument and bust
of Giles Tomson, Bishop of Gloucester, and some time
Dean of Windsor, who died in 1612. Beneath the
other three windows are monuments of Sir William
Fitzwilliam (ob. 1551), Ralph Brideoake, Canon of
Windsor, Dean of Salisbury, and Bishop of Chichester
(ob. 1678), and Christian Victor, Prince of SchleswigHolstein (ob. 1900). The place of Sir Reynald
Bray's tomb in the middle of the chapel is occupied
by the white marble cenotaph and effigy of the
Prince Imperial (ob. 1879), subscribed for to be set
up in the abbey church of Westminster, but owing
to difficulties allowed to be erected instead at Windsor
by Queen Victoria.
The nave resembles the quire in elevation, except
that the vaulting shafts in front of the piers start
from the floor. The vault which they support also
resembles that of the quire, which was copied from
it, but lacks the pendants which characterize the
latter. Among the devices of the principal keys are
the Cross-Neyt in the first bay, and the arms, &c., of
Dean Christopher Urswick, Sir Reynald Bray and
King Henry VII. As Sir Reynald Bray's arms are
encircled by the garter, the vault cannot be earlier
than 1501, when he was elected K.G., nor later than
either his death in 1503 or that of Urswick in 1505.
The aisles have fan vaults like those of the quire
aisles, and bear the same arms, &c., as the nave vault,
with which they are contemporary. The west end
of the nave is occupied for almost its whole height
and breadth by a great window of fifteen lights,
flanked by canted angles containing doorways to the
stair turrets within. The window is filled for the
most part with made-up figures of old glass, fragments
of the original glazing collected with mistaken zeal
from all parts of the chapel in 1767. Though the
general effect is not unpleasing, the figures have been
so much restored as to be devoid of any antiquarian
interest. By their removal from their original places
all hope of recovering the original glazing scheme,
even from fragments, has been destroyed.
The westernmost bay of the nave is narrower than
the others and flanked by polygonal chapels opening
from the aisles. The southern chapel is that in which
Sir Reynald Bray by his will desired to be buried,
but its ornaments include nothing allusive of him,
and the chapel is largely occupied by the marble tomb
with alabaster effigies of Sir Charles Herbert, K.G.,
Lord Herbert of Gower (afterwards Earl of Worcester)
and Elizabeth his wife. The chapel, which was
dedicated in honour of our Lady, was assigned to
Lord Herbert by the dean and chapter in 1506,
and to him is due the large niche north of the altar
place and the bronze grates or screens that inclose
the chapel and surround the tomb. Lord Herbert's
effigy represents him as bareheaded and in armour,
with the garter round his left leg and about him the
mantle and collar of the order. Lady Herbert is
shown with her hair let down and encircled by a
fillet. On the wall of the chapel is a long inscription
recording its defacement during the 'Great Rebellion'
and its restoration by Henry Duke of Beaufort in
1699. A huge monument was also set up to this
duke in the chapel, but removed to Badminton, on
account of its size, in 1874.
The corresponding north chapel is that of the
Salutation, and in it a chantry was founded in 1493–4
by Thomas Passhe and William Hermer, formerly
canons, and John Plummer, some time virger. Another
chantry was founded at the same altar in 1507 by
Dean Christopher Urswick, who inclosed the chapel
with the screen and grate now in the south aisle of
the quire. They were removed thence in 1824 to
make way for Wyatt's well-known marble monument
of the Princess Charlotte Augusta of Wales and her
stillborn son, who died in 1817. The chapel is now
inclosed by an insignificant modern railing. Outside
stands the marble statue of the princess's husband,
Prince Leopold George Frederick of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, afterwards King of the Belgians, erected
here by Queen Victoria in 1879. Further west in
the same aisle is the mural monument, with bust of a
blind man within a wreath of poppies, of George V,
the blind King of Hanover, who died in 1878.
At the west end of the south aisle stands an elaborate alabaster font, designed by Mr. J. L. Pearson
and given in memory of the Rev. F. Anson, for forty
years a canon, in 1888. Hard by, under the sixth
arch of the main arcade, is a high alabaster tomb with
marble effigy of Edward Duke of Kent and Strathern,
who died in 1820.
The pulpit, which stands in the nave, was designed
by Mr. A. Y. Nutt and is of quite recent date.
Close to the south doorway is a remarkable iron
box for offerings. It consists of an octagonal body
17 in. high and 13½ in. wide, standing upon four
round pillars, with hexagonal capitals and bases, set
in a block of Purbeck marble. On each side is a
crocketed canopy springing from buttresses upon the
angles, and surmounting a Lombardic letter b. On
the top are four slits for offerings with sliding lids,
alternating with as many castles, also pierced for coins,
arranged about a much larger castle with a domed
roof encircled by a (broken) crown, likewise furnished
with coin slits. This unique object is in all 3 ft. 10½ in.
high, and was apparently made to receive the offerings
at the tomb of King Henry VI. It is undoubtedly
by the same craftsman who designed the magnificent
iron gates of Edward IV's chapel. Before leaving
the nave attention should be called to the little 'brays'
or hempbrakes of iron, the badge of Sir Reynald
Bray, with which the inner face of the south door is
powdered, and to the beautiful lock plates on the
various doors and gates within the chapel in general.
The flooring throughout the chapel, except the 17th-century black and white marble pavement in the
quire, was all relaid at the end of the 18th century.
The chapel fortunately contains little modern painted
glass. That by Willement in the quire aisles, inserted
at various times between 1845 and 1854, is interesting
from its date, but consists of mere translucent coloured
pictures. The heraldic glass in the clearstory windows
is of more sensible character.
Owing to the considerable rise of the ground from
west to east, the western part of St. George's chapel
is built upon a basement. This consists of a polygonal chamber beneath each of the western chapels,
connected by a barrel-vaulted tunnel. The chambers
were well-lighted living rooms, with doorways from
without and furnished with bed recesses and chimneys.
That to the north is still easy of examination,
despite its being converted into a lead-casting room
for the plumbers, but the southern one is nearly filled
by the organ bellows. Neither chamber has any direct
communication with the chapel, though the northern
has a staircase leading upwards towards the north
doorway; but both were probably built as the abodes
of chantry priests or clerks of the chapel. The west
front of the chapel has the large window flanked by
lofty stair turrets, and up to the great doorway is an
ascending flight of stone steps of modern date.
The old doorway in the ambulatory of St. George's
chapel now opens into a passage 11½ ft. wide from the
lower ward to the cloisters, &c. This was originally
the ante-chapel of Henry the Third's chapel, and
still retains its north doorway, but the rest of the
passage, including its panelled vault (fn. 40) and south doorway, belongs to the Lady chapel of Henry VII.
This was built inside the older chapel, the north
wall of which has been retained to a sufficient height
for the new buttresses to stand upon it without intruding upon the cloister, but the south wall has gone.
The new building is thus only 28 ft. wide as against
the 36 ft. of its predecessor. Owing, moreover, to the
western gable of the Lady chapel being built upon
the line of the old screen between the chapel and
ante-chapel its length is only 71 ft. instead of the
possible 83 ft. (with its ante-chapel) of the chapel of
St. Edward and St. George. The Lady chapel now
forms the Albert Memorial chapel, and is five bays
long, with a three-sided apse towards the east. It is
entered by a Tudor doorway from the passage, which
serves as a vestibule to it. The floor and steps are
throughout of marble and mosaic, and along the side
walls is a marble bench. The walls are panelled up
to the windows with variously coloured marbles in
which are set large pictures in tarsia work of scenes
from Old Testament history with intermediate figures
of the Virtues. This decoration is continued into the
apse with pictures of our Lord's Passion. The altar
has a slab of green marble, and stands before a reredos
with a representation of the Resurrection in white
marble. The windows are all of four lights and
transomed, but the west window has twelve lights,
now closed with mosaic pictures of notable persons
connected with or benefactors to the College of
Windsor. The other windows contain modern
stained glass by Clayton & Bell. The vault is
enriched with mosaic by Salviati. In the north wall
is a Tudor doorway communicating by a wall passage
with the old vestry, now part of the Deanery. Before
the altar stands the cenotaph of the Prince Consort,
an elaborate marble tomb surmounted by a white
marble recumbent effigy in fluted armour. The
middle of the chapel is occupied by the more magnificent but unfinished monument, by Alfred Gilbert,
of H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence and Avondale, who
died in 1892. The sarcophagus which contains his
body is of Mexican onyx, and is surmounted by a
recumbent effigy of the dead prince in bronze. The
tomb is inclosed by a splendid bronze screen with
statuettes of saints. Further west is a third tomb,
in white marble, with effigy of H.R.H. the Duke of
Albany (ob. 1884).
The marble mosaic work of the chapel was executed
by M. Jules C. Destreez from the designs of Baron
H. de Triqueti, and the general restoration was
carried out under the direction of Mr. (afterwards
Sir) G. G. Scott.
Externally the chapel is divided into bays by
boldly projecting buttresses bearing the arms and
badges of Henry VII, and carried up as pedestals
intended for images of the king's beasts. Below the
south windows are more badges and over them an
open traceried parapet, but towards the north the
parapet is plain and battled. Both parapets were
renewed in Portland stone in 1800–1.
The passage between the two chapels opens directly
into the Lower or Dean's cloister. This is about
67½ ft. from north to south and 75 ft. from east to
west, with covered alleys on all four sides about the
grass-plot in the middle. The alleys vary in width,
the eastern and western being from 12 ft. to 13 ft.
and the others 11½ ft. The south wall formed one
side of the chapel of Henry III, and has an arcade of
one narrow and four wider arches with part of a fifth,
standing upon a stone bench. The arches are of two
orders, carried by shafts with stiff-stalked carved
capitals; the principal shafts are of Purbeck marble.
The incomplete arch towards the east shows that the
13th-century cloister was somewhat longer than the
present; it has within it a blocked Tudor doorway
with the old vestry passage within. The west wall
also dates from c. 1240, if it be not earlier, and has
along it a stone bench. In its south end is a doorway
from St. George's chapel, made probably in 1482–3,
and next to it a modern entrance to the vestry,
&c. This is copied from an original Tudor doorway
further north, now converted into a window, which
formerly opened on to a wall stair to the erary
or treasury. In the north end of the wall is a
wide doorway of a date c. 1351–2 into the porch
below the erary. The north alley has a stone
bench like the south and west alleys, built against a
wall which formed part of the camera ordered to be
built by Henry III in 1240. The original buttresses
have been cut away, but one of the windows remains,
a plain square-headed loop grated with iron. In the
middle of the wall is an inserted 14th-century doorway into the Canons' cloister. The east wall of the
cloister is all of the 14th century and has no bench
along it. In its northern half are various interesting
openings. They include (1) a wide doorway into
the Deanery, and a group consisting of (2) a doorway
formerly a window, (3) another doorway and (4) a
traceried window. The modern window at the south
end was inserted by Dean Wellesley. The cloister
alleys are paved with stone, with occasional pieces of
old monumental slabs. The walls were wainscoted
until quite late in the 18th century. The south
alley is covered by a lean-to roof and the other alleys
with flat modern ceilings.
The wall inclosing the grass-plot should date from
1352, but has been so often 'restored' that, except
at the angles, it is practically new. The corner piers
have on each face a canopied niche for an image,
flanked by Purbeck marble shafts. In each side are
four windows of four cinquefoiled lights. The inclosing arches are set in square openings with pierced
quatrefoils in the spandrels. On the garth side the
divisions are marked by slender buttresses which once
carried pinnacles, but these are now lacking. The
buttresses on the west side were rebuilt on a larger
scale in 1852, when the chapter-room above was
added by Scott. This room is a pretentious and
elaborately panelled apartment lighted by pairs of
Gothic windows, but quite devoid of interest. Adjoining it on the north is the chapter clerk's office,
a work, apparently, of the latter part of the 15th
century, still retaining a panelled wooden ceiling
with carved bosses and one of the windows of
the old library, of which it formed part. Both
rooms are reached from the cloister by a stair in
the thickness of the west wall. The north alley is
partly over-ailed by a 16th-century room with oriel
window, all of timber with brick nogging, belonging
to one of the houses in the Canons' cloister; it has,
however, been much modernized. The south and
west alleys were formerly surmounted by the library,
which was placed here in 1483–4; it was, however,
restricted temp. James I to the western side, and
eventually removed to the old vicars' hall, where it
still is.
The eastern side of the cloister is now covered by
a range of buildings containing the chief apartments
of the Deanery. These include not only the rooms
that replace the original lodging of the warden, but,
on the ground floor, the vestry and chapter-house
appended in the 14th century to the chapel of
St. Edward and St. George. The vestry was built in
1350 in the usual place north of the high altar, and
is 21½ ft. long and 12½ ft. wide. The walls are now
covered with wainscot, but the drain for the altar
remains behind it. The arch of the east window
is also left, but has lost its tracery. The room is
covered by its original lierne vault with carved keys,
which abuts westward upon a strong transverse arch,
about 2½ ft. in advance of the end wall. The recess
thus formed contains a modern chimney and window,
and an old doorway into a passage communicating
with the Albert Memorial chapel. Next to the
vestry is the old chapter-house of 1350–2, now the
dean's dining room. This measures 22½ ft. by 30½ ft.,
and has on the east the two original window openings,
but these have lost their tracery. The walls are
wainscoted chair-high, and the room is covered, as
always, by a flat ceiling. To the north of the room
is a passage from which it is entered. This was
originally wider, and formed a lobby to the chapterhouse, having at its west end the large doorway and
its flanking windows still to be seen in the cloister.
The doorway north of these once led to the warden's
hall, &c., on the first floor, but this and a later
extension of the house into the castle ditch were
rebuilt in their present form in brick, instead of
half-timber work, by Dean Urswick. The original
windows of the western block can be traced on both
sides, but with the exception of some remains of
moulded plaster ceilings, c. 1587–8, in the eastern
wing, the building contains nothing of interest. (fn. 41) A
straggling extension northwards along the ditch to
the north wall of the castle was added in the 17th
century, and contains the kitchen and offices below
and a wainscoted gallery on the first floor.
The 14th-century doorway in the north alley of
the cloister leads into an irregular quadrangle, (fn. 42) about
which the houses of the canons and their vicars were
built between 1352 and 1355. These occupy the site
of the camera of Henry III, which was partly burnt
in 1296, and removed later to make room for them.
They fill up all the space between the King's cloister
and the castle wall, and extend westwards from the
old ditch across the north end of the lower ward.
Three of the early towers along the castle wall are
incorporated into them. The original houses of half-timbered construction still remain along three sides
of the court, and are of two stories, the upper being
carried forward in front of the lower over an open
gallery or ambulatory extending all round the quadrangle. The original arrangement consisted of thirteen
sets of chambers for the vicars upon the ground floor
and the same number above for the canons, but the
inevitable changes during six and a half centuries have
obscured the old divisions, and the houses now form
ten separate tenements for the canons and minor
canons. The houses have also been much altered
externally by additions to their height and the
building of new chimney stacks, &c.; they nevertheless form still a very picturesque corner of the
castle. The garth is divided into two unequal
portions by a transverse pentise. (fn. 43) from the entrance
passage to the tower opposite, through which there
is a modern way down, continued outside by the
'hundred steps.' The west end of the quadrangle
has been rebuilt, and is now closed by a substantial
three-storied red brick house of the end of the
17th century, forming two tenements.
The doorway in the north-west corner of the
Dean's cloister opens into a passage going westwards.
This forms one end of a beautiful porch, measuring
23 ft. by 11½ ft., built, with 'la Tresorie' over it, in
1353–4. It is two bays long and has panelled walls
and an elaborately panelled stone vault. The chief
doorway is at the south end, and can now be seen only
from the vestry. The treasury above, now called the
erary, by corruption from its older name of erarium,
has a tiled floor, a stone vault with carved keys, a
chimney (inserted in 1443–4), and a two-light
window, guarded within by a heavy iron grating
added in 1496–7. It is reached by a staircase from
the cloister, and in it are kept the muniments of the
dean and chapter. The west side of the porch and
erary was formerly covered by the canons' chapterhouse. (fn. 44) This was rebuilt circa 1477, but eventually
converted into a dwelling-house, and needlessly
destroyed in 1859.
The wide space north of St. George's chapel was,
and still is, filled with a variety of buildings. Its
eastern half used to be occupied by a walled-in court,
having on the east the large house forming the end
of the Canons' cloister, on the north another good
house, also of brick, of the 17th century, which is
still there, and on the west by Denton's Commons.
The house to the north has its front divided by Ionic
pilasters into four bays, and into three stages by
simple string-courses, but the simple dignity of the
original work, which was perhaps designed by Wren,
is marred by the modern windows. The wall that
inclosed the court before the house was pulled down
in 1843.
The building known as Denton's Commons stood
partly upon the site of the great hall. This was
almost entirely destroyed by Bishop Beauchamp when
clearing the ward for the new chapel, but a fragment
of it yet survives and its foundations remain. Such
of its walls as were left were incorporated in 1520
in Master James Denton's new building, which consisted of a rectangular block 63½ ft. long and 15½ ft.
wide, standing north and south, and of two stories.
On the upper was the hall with its pantry, where the
chaplains and choristers kept their commons, and in the
lower the kitchen, buttery, larder, and pastry. The south
end of the hall was filled with a large square-headed
window of five lights. The 'cook's chamber,' a two-storied structure with lodgings for the cook and undercook, stood on the north-west, and to the north
across a narrow passage was a building along the
castle wall, with the storehouse below and the choristers'
lodgings above. To the east and the west of Denton's
building were narrow courtyards. In 1550 this
interesting structure was converted into a dwelling-house, and so continued until 1859, when it was
most unnecessarily destroyed, with the exception of
its north end. The hall chimney-piece, bearing
Denton's rebus, was saved through the efforts of
Mr. Cope, the chapter clerk, and inserted in the old
vicars' hall, now the chapter library, where it may
yet be seen.

Windsor Castle: The Canons' Cloister
When Denton's Commons was pulled down it was
found that the lower part of its east wall had formed
part of the great hall and the remains of a rich
doorway temp. Henry III adjoined it. A window
and an upper doorway of the hall were also uncovered
in its north end, and may still be seen in the fragment
of the building which has escaped destruction.
To the west of the site of Denton's Commons,
against the castle wall, is a good red brick house of
the time of Queen Anne, the residence of one of the
canons. Next to this is a picturesque half-timbered
building, also along the wall, used until lately for
some time as the choristers' lodging; it now forms
two tenements. The front is quite modern and
dates only from 1874, when the old house was
reduced in size and the remains thoroughly 'restored.'
The old roofs and several chimney-pieces have survived the operation. The building seems to have
been erected at the end of the 15th century for the
'schoolmaster of grammar' and the 'schoolmaster of
music.'
The choristers have been housed since 1891 in a
building below the castle on the north, erected in
1802 for the abortive foundation of the Naval
Knights of Windsor, provided for in 1724 under the
will of Mr. Samuel Travers.
The north-west corner of the lower ward is filled
with the lodgings built originally for the accommodation of the vicars. The thirteen vicars ordained
by Edward III first lived in the chambers below the
canons, but this arrangement not working well
Henry IV in 1409 granted the place called the
Woodhaw, beside the great hall, as a site for houses
for the vicars, clerks and choristers. These seem to
have been built in 1415–16, but only the hall
(since 1693 the chapter library) remains, the other
buildings having been removed during Bishop Beauchamp's clearance for St. George's chapel. The old
hall extends southwards from the castle wall, upon
which its north gable is built, for some 70 ft., (fn. 45) and
is 23 ft. wide, but sundry restorations have left little
of interest architecturally (fn. 46) beyond its original kingpost roof and the rescued Denton chimney-piece; its
south end is a timber partition, dating from a
shortening of the hall for the new work south of it.
Beneath the hall is the organist's house, formed out
of the original cellars. After 1550 the hall was
converted to other uses.
The buildings now adjoining the hall consist of a
number of two-storied half-timbered houses, built
about a polygonal courtyard and pentise, filling up all
the space between St. George's chapel and the castle
wall west of it. In Norden's picture they are called
'the Kewe,' and in Hollar's view 'Petty Canons'
Houses,' but are now known as the Horseshoe
cloister.
The houses were twenty-two in number, and in
building from 1478 to 1481, and originally extended
on the north side nearly up to the north doorway of
the chapel, but this block was unfortunately destroyed
in 1843. The timber framing is filled in with brick
nogging, and surmounted by a coved cornice with
open traceried parapet, all of wood. The ground
story is masked by a wooden pentise with cradle roof
covered with lead, with wide traceried openings set
upon a low brick wall. The doorways are all four-centred and the lower windows mostly of two tiers
of uncusped lights; the upper windows are square-headed and of three lights. The cloister is entered
by a wide passage from the south, but all the
architectural features of this are modern. The upper
story of all the houses is also more or less modern,
and the windows, coving and parapet wholly so, as
well as the two turrets flanking the library end, and
all the chimney stacks; but occasional fragments
show that the old lines have been followed. The
lower story of the houses and the pentise contain
more original work. The general restoration was
done in 1871 under Scott. Since the reduction of
the collegiate establishment in recent years the vicars
have become minor canons, and again returned to
houses in the Canons' cloister, while their old lodging
has been given over to the lay clerks and virger, &c.
A passage through the north-west section of the
Horseshoe cloister leads into a court behind in
front of the large tower that stands so prominently at
the westernmost point of the castle. This tower,
which is one of the three built, with the connecting
walls, across the west front in 1227–30, was from
quite early days known as the Clewer tower, and consists
of a basement, a main floor and an upper floor. The
flat side towards the court was new faced with firestone in 1863, when the contour of the tower was
changed by the addition of the present ugly gabled
roof. Owing partly to the fall of the ground and
partly to the tower being built in the Norman ditch
the basement has to be reached by steps leading down
to its wide entrance. This has a depressed head,
flanked by two square-headed windows, and has
within it more steps down to the earthen floor. The
basement measures 32 ft. by 22 ½ ft. wide, and in
plan consists of a square and a half-octagon, covered
by a simple ribbed vault springing from moulded
corbels. In each side of the polygonal part is a deep
recess with a narrow loop at the back. The masonry
throughout is of excellent ashlar, and the walls 13 ft.
thick, except towards the court, where the thickness
is only 5 ft. The main floor is reached by steps
from the court and entered by a wide pointed doorway. This opens into a lofty chamber faced in chalk
or clunch ashlar, with firestone dressings to the windows and doorways. The plan is quite different from
that of the basement, being roughly a polygon with
three long and four short sides. Round the outer
curve are disposed six broad and deep window
recesses, each with a wide square-headed loop at the
back. The north-east corner is partitioned off to
form a room for the bell-ringer, and has within it
the remains of a fine original hooded chimney,
beyond which is a large window.
The upper floor is reached by a massive wooden
staircase and is similar in plan to the main floor. In
its east wall are two pairs of original window recesses
with pointed lights, and between them the remains
of a chimney like that below. There are four other
windows in the sides towards the field and in a fifth
recess a garderobe.
The interior of the tower is now filled by a
massive timber belfry about 21 ft. square, carried by
twelve great vertical uprights, upon which is fixed the
bell cage. This stood above the tower roof and was
inclosed by boarding covered with lead sheeting and
surmounted by a picturesque lead-covered cupola.
During the changes of 1863 the boarding and leadwork were stripped off and bell cage and cupola
hidden under the new gabled roof, where they can
still be seen awaiting their being again brought to
light.
The tower still contains the same number of eight
bells that were brought over from the old belfry in
1478–9, but the bells themselves have passed through
many vicissitudes. The great bell was recast in
1598–9 and the whole ring in 1612, but only the
4th, 6th and 7th are of that date now. They bear
the initials of the founder, John Wallys of Salisbury.
The great bell was sold in 1614, towards the payment of the college debts, but replaced in 1623 by a
second-hand one cast by Wallys in 1614. The
2nd and 3rd bells were again recast in 1650 by
W. Whitmore, and the treble in 1741–2 by Thomas
Lester of London, who also recast the 5th in 1745.
The inscriptions and diameters of the bells are as
follows (fn. 47) :
|
|
Diam. |
| 1. Thomas Lester of London made me February the 20 1741. |
31½ in. |
| 2. incipe dvlce ceqvar 1650 w whitmore made mee |
32 in. |
| 3. 1650 W W |
34½ in. |
| 4. Venite Exvltemvs I W 1612 |
36½ in. |
| 5. In Honore S. Georgii Martiris et S. Edwardi Regis et Confessoris A.D. 1898 |
41½ in. |
| 6. Vox Dei Gloriosa Est I W 1615 |
44 in. |
| 7. Nos Avribvs Nobis Vos Cordievs Deo Sonate I W 1612 |
48 in. |
| 8. searve the lord with fere I W 1614 |
52 in. |
Down to 1863 the belfry had affixed to it a handsome clock case with a copper dial, dated 1756, containing a clock bought of John Davis of Windsor in
1689. The clock has been preserved, and has in
connexion with it a chime that plays the old psalm
tune 'St. David' every three hours.
The main floor of the Clewer tower has a doorway on the south communicating with a mural
chamber, through the floor of which access can now
be had to a postern passage and sallyport, constructed
in the thickness of the curtain wall at its building.
The passage is 6 ft. wide and filled with a descending
flight of forty chalk and stone steps, covered by a
sloping barrel vault of chalk blocks, plastered. The
sides of the stair are of coursed chalk blocks. At the
stair foot the passage turns at a right angle and continues down into the ditch, but its lower end and
opening are blocked.
The next tower southwards is known as Garter's
tower and is semicircular in plan. Until 1860,
when it was 'restored' by Salvin, it was a roofless
shell with the flat side completely broken down. The
basement is now entered by a wide depressed archway in the 13th-century style, and contains three
deep pointed recesses with loops overlooking the
ditch, and another recess on the south. The roof is
a modern brick vault. The main floor is reached by
a modern external staircase and has also three old
looped recesses towards the west, but the remaining
features are Salvin's. The tower is now used as a
cooking place for the guard.
Against the wall, between Garter's tower and
that to the south, stood the block of chambers known
as Crane's Buildings, erected in 1657 as a lodging for
five more Poor Knights. It was a plain, unpretentious structure with a pedimental gable in the middle
and a row of gardens in front. As an inoffensive
building erected during the Commonwealth it was of
interest architecturally, but this did not save it from
being destroyed in 1863, to make way for Salvin's
ugly guard-house, which stands upon its site. This
consists of a large room with stone vaulted roof and a
lesser division at the south end open to the ward.
The third of the towers of the west front is called
the Chancellor's or Salisbury tower, from the Bishop
of Salisbury, who was anciently chancellor of the
order of the Garter. It is nearly circular in plan,
with a flat side towards the bailey, and is now used
as a residence of one of the Military Knights. It
was refaced and the main floor altered by Blore, who
rebuilt the upper story, but the basement retains
its original window recesses as well as the blocked
entrance with its flanking openings from the bailey.
From the great gate-house there extends eastward
along the castle wall a long range of lodgings for the
Military Knights. It consists of a series of seven
two-storied ashlar-faced houses towards the west, a
square tower in the middle built of coursed heathstone, which is the residence of the governor of the
knights, and a further series of six houses towards the
east. The latter date from 1359–60, and are also
built of heathstone, but were altered to their present
form in 1557–8, when the western range of houses
was also built. The tower is the old belfry of
1359–60 and contained the chapel bells until their
removal to the Clewer tower in or about 1478.
The single house west of the tower (the others are
arranged in pairs) has attached to it the remains of
the 13th-century bastion that here projects from the
castle wall, and formerly contained a common hall,
kitchen and pantry for the use of the Poor Knights.
It was almost completely rebuilt by Sir Jeffrey
Wyatville, and now forms a residence for one of
the castle officials. Each house has on the ground
floor a four-centred doorway and a two-light window,
and on the first floor another two-light window and
one of a pair of lights conjoined over the coupled
doorways. The tower is three stories high and
flanked at the corners by buttresses. Over the
principal window of the first floor is a carved panel
with the armorial ensigns of Queen Mary and her
Spanish consort, a modern version of a like panel
inserted in 1558. The Military Knights' lodgings
have a row of gardens in front, fenced in by modern
stone walls, and stand upon a terrace raised above
the level of the ward. The whole range underwent
a very complete restoration in 1840–50.
Externally the nether lodgings have also a Marian
facing of sandstone, now pierced, where none was
before, with a number of 19th-century windows.
In the cellar story these are square-headed loops, in
the main floor trefoiled lights, and in the upper story
pointed or trefoiled lights. The battled parapet and
the chimney stacks are likewise new. The 13th-century round tower has for a long time been
reduced to its present height and has a modern casing
of heathstone pierced with three tiers of Wyatville's
windows. The old belfry has fortunately preserved
its original exterior, except that three tiers of modern
windows have been inserted in it. The lofty heathstone wall east of the belfry, against which the upper
lodgings stand, is possibly temp. Henry II, but now
exhibits four rows of modern windows similar to
those of the nether lodgings.
The outside of the north face of the lower ward
is usually so much hidden by the trees which have
unwisely been allowed upon the side of the Castle
Hill that it is not always easy to see its architectural
features. All the sections of the wall west of the
Winchester tower, between the three succeeding
towers, as well as the towers themselves, were
thoroughly 'gothicized' and for the most part
refaced in the middle of the last century, and almost
every trace of their Norman origin and later history
obliterated. Nearly all the many windows are also
modern. From the Middle tower issue the socalled Hundred Steps down to Wyatville's gate-house
in Thames Street; their actual number is, however,
134. From the third tower to the Clewer tower
the wall, though irregular in parts and much patched,
is ancient. The north front of the old brick house
next to the third tower stands upon it, and has alternate courses of brick and stone with flint work, but
its original 17th-century windows are now being
'restored.' The two houses to the west have both
been 'gothicized.' Below the eastern part of the
gable of the chapter library is a built-out projection
of four stages, with quoins of Portland stone, which
evidently formed part of some older building. The
Clewer tower has a bold battering plinth, but was
raised in 1863 and cased throughout with mechanically coursed heathstone; it has also a new parapet,
from within which rises Salvin's semi-conical roof.
Garter's tower has been refaced like the Clewer
tower, but is fortunately finished off with a battled
parapet only. The Salisbury tower, as already
noted, was refaced by Blore. The lengths of walling
between the three towers are all of the 13th century
and of heathstone with ashlar courses of white stone.
The windows are all recent, except a small loop that
lights the sallyport stairs. The upper part of the
wall from the Salisbury Tower to the gate-house is
Wyatville's, but the lower part is ancient and belongs
to the defences added by Henry III.

Windsor Castle: West Wall, showing Clewer and Garter's Towers
The west side of the castle is now the only section
that has any traces of the old outer ditch; this has
been sadly encroached upon to widen the street.
It enables, however, some idea to be formed of the
loss of dignity which the castle has sustained along
the south and east sides by the filling up of this
ancient defence.
The head of the lower ward was anciently
traversed by a ditch with a bridge across it, defended
by a tower on the upper or eastern side. The ditch
has been almost entirely filled up, but part of its
northern half is now represented by the Deanery
garden and the later buildings of the Deanery stand
in it. Behind them also exists a good length of the
old wall that once formed the western boundary of
the middle ward. The gate-tower that defended the
entrance was pulled down in 1671, and the middle
ward is now approached by a wide opening in a modern
wall built by Wyatville upon the line of the old wall.
The lofty tower that stands in the south end of
the transverse ditch was built probably in 1223–6,
and may fairly be allowed to be called Henry the
Third's. The main portion of it is nearly circular,
but its eastern half is rectangular and contains the
staircase. (fn. 48) It is three stories high and built of rubble
faced with heathstone, but all the dressings are
modern and there are no ancient features within.
The north front is of interest as containing the
only two complete examples now left of the
peculiar type of window used temp. Charles II by
Hugh May in all the parts of the castle dealt with by
him. They are tall round-headed openings with a
balustraded transom. The other windows in the
tower are almost all insertions by Wyatt c. 1800.
The outer face has a tall battering plinth and traces
of original loops now represented by wide modern
openings. The eastern face of the tower is partly
masked by a block of offices extending southwards,
erected by Wyatville on the site of an older building.
Further along to the east stood a scattered series of
small houses, apparently of the early 18th century,
known as the offices of the Black Rod, (fn. 49) but these
were all swept away by Wyatville, together with the
old curved wall that inclosed the southern side of the
middle bailey. In its place Sir Jeffrey built the
present wall on a totally different line. It starts
from the corner of his block of offices and consists of
three straight sections divided by small square
turrets. The lower part is battered externally and
pierced with arrow-slits, and the upper part forms a
rampart walk with battled parapet. At the end of
the third section the wall stops abruptly against a tall
pointed archway, called the Barbican, standing at
right angles to it, from the other side of which the
wall is continued eastwards. The space within the
archway forms a small court before another creation
of Wyatville, the pretentious entrance into the
upper ward called St. George's
gateway. This is as egregious a
sham as the Barbican and consists
of a vaulted gate-passage with sham
portcullis grooves. The wall in
which it is set is old and carries a
stepped gallery, built by Wyatville
to connect his great corridor with
the Round tower.
The north-west corner of the
middle ward was open until about
1680, when a large guard-house
was built upon it alongside the
old wall behind the Deanery. It
was of brick, with a lofty tiled
roof with dormers and a stone
portico or pillared porch with
steps at its south end. Between
it and the Winchester tower was a
lower building, at first a canteen
but later a public-house. Wyatville
swept away both buildings and
erected upon their site an equally
large but much less picturesque
building of three stories faced with
stone, now used as the lord chamberlain's upper stores. At the
north-west corner of the ward
stands the lofty four-storied Winchester tower. It is nearly square
in plan and probably of Norman
origin, but was raised and otherwise enlarged and altered when
William of Wykeham first became
clerk of the works. He seems also
to have lived in it, hence its old
name of 'Wichamtour.' It was
likewise the residence of Sir Jeffrey
Wyatville, who is responsible for
the oriel windows and other modern
features and additions. The castle wall going east
from the Winchester tower is partly old and probably of the 14th century, but has been a good deal
patched and new faced. It is pierced in one place
by a modern cart archway, and abuts eastward upon
a small square battled tower projecting northwards.
This Magazine tower, as it is called, is a low two-storied building of the 14th century with living
rooms and garderobes on each floor; that in the
ground story has a good chimney. From the Magazine tower to the inner gate-house there extends a
nearly straight length of the castle wall, built of
coursed heathstone and apparently of the 12th
century. It has a good Elizabethan stone parapet
built in place of some ruinous brickwork. The
middle ward is actually a slender semicircular court
surrounding and forming the counterscarp of the
ditch of the mount of the Great tower, but the
ditch is bounded on the ward side by a vertical wall
rising from its outer margin. The flat bottom is laid
out as a rock and water garden and the slope of the
mount obscured by walks and shrubs. The larger
part of the mount and its ditch are actually within
the middle ward, but the Great tower can be
reached only from the inner ward. This is entered
by a two-storied gate-house to the north of the
mount, miscalled the Norman gate. It is, however,
really a work of the 14th century, and a good, though
much restored, example of its date. It consists of a
narrow passage or gate-hall, vaulted in stone, flanked
by two large drum towers with small chambers
behind and a vice to the upper floor. The outer
archway was defended by a portcullis, which remains
in part, with a double gate behind, and has three
holes in the crown of the arch for thrusting down
weapons upon an attacking party. The windows
above have been modernized, and the machicolations
overhead, as also the parapets of the towers, are
additions by Wyatville. The tower windows are
also his. On the inner side there are two original
two-light windows over the archway, but the upper
works are all quite recent. The ground stories of
both towers are hexagonal in plan and vaulted in
stone, and the rooms behind on the north once
formed the porter's lodge. The vice on the south
side ascends to the first floor and upwards to the roof.
The first floor consisted originally of three intercommunicating rooms, one in each tower, and a third
over the gate-hall. The north chamber was walled
off and absorbed into Queen Elizabeth's new gallery,
and the large room is encroached upon by the gallery
chimney-breast. It still, however, retains an original
chimney with joggled lintel, and has in its west wall
a wide arch in which the remnant of the portcullis is
fixed. It was formerly suspended by a chain passing
through a square hole in the top of the arch to a
windlass on the roof. Behind the portcullis are
three pointed recesses, which have in their floors the
holes (blocked above) that appear in the arch below.
These could be used offensively only when the portcullis had been lowered. The middle recess once had
a cruciform opening at the back, now enlarged into
a window. The room in the south tower is hexagonal like that below and floored with old figured
tiles. Towards the south it has an old window with
its shutter and an original chimney with horizontal
lintel, but the other windows have been modernized.
Between this room and the vice is a lofty vaulted lobby.

Windsor Castle: The Winchester Tower

Windsor Castle: The 'Norman' Gate
Attached to the gate-house on the south-east is a
two-storied Elizabethan building, the front of which
stands upon a plinth of earlier date. The lower
story has a doorway flanked by two transomed windows, and the upper three three-light windows with
a restored parapet over. The rooms within form
part of a small L-shaped block which in the 18th
century was expanded southwards into a three-storied
brick residence for the castle housekeeper. This was
refaced and 'gothicized' by Wyatville, but enlarged
in 1866 to its present form. It and the rooms in
the gate-house now form one residence.
The dominant feature of
Windsor Castle is of course
the Great tower, Keep, or
Round tower, as it is called,
from its plan. It stands upon
a large artificial mount of
chalk, still surrounded in part
by the ditch out of which it
was cast up. This mount is
now the only visible portion
of the Conqueror's castle
mentioned in the Domesday
Survey.
The ascent to the Round
tower begins on the right
hand of the passage from the
Norman gate, through a
14th-century porch with
chambers over. The steps
through this are continued
up a gallery with raking roof,
rebuilt in the 15th century,
to a 14th-century tower,
once defended by a portcullis
that blocks the ascent. The
stair passes on through this
and an extension of it behind,
largely rebuilt by Wyatville,
and ends on the chemise or
gallery that encircles the
Round tower. The staircase
is commanded by an old gun,
which points down it through
a loop in the Round tower,
and contains eighty-nine steps,
or ninety-seven with those
in the porch.
The gallery round the base
of the keep is about 10 ft.
broad, and encircled by a
wall with occasional embrasures, in which stand twelve
small brass cannon dating
from 1794 to 1801. The gallery is interrupted in
two places: on the north-east by the ascent from the
upper ward, on the south by a porch at the head of
the steps down to Edward the Third's tower.
The Round tower is only roughly circular in
plan, being more pear-shaped than round, and its
south face is considerably flattened. Its longest outside diameter is 103 ft. and the shortest 94 ft.
Externally it is divided into twelve segments by
broad pilaster buttresses and horizontally into four
stages. The lowest stage has a battering plinth with
a belt of heathstone pierced by a series of 14th-century windows. The next or principal stage is
also faced with heathstone, but its upper courses are
modern. It contains a series of large two-light
windows inserted by Wyatville. The top story is
faced with heathstone, and has in its lower half a
number of small windows which light a wall gallery
within, and above these a row of sham loops. The
whole is crowned by a bold machicolated parapet,
which is interrupted towards the north-east by a stair
turret and flagstaff that rise above it. The lower
part of the tower with its buttresses is late 12th-century work, but all above the middle of the principal story is Wyatville's. The main entrance is also
Wyatville's, and leads through his brick stair turret
into a two-storied wooden building which nearly fills
the lower part of the tower. This was originally
arranged about an open court, and is finished off with
a deep coved cornice and a sloping lead roof. Much
of the construction is hidden by later panelling, but
the inner face of the building seems to have been
formed of a series of pointed opening framed between
massive uprights. In some of the lower rooms the
cross-beams have curved braces and supporting posts
midway. In the upper story most of the rooms,
which are loftier than those below, have a deep
moulded cornice towards the court. When the
tower was raised by Wyatville the old wall was
thickened internally, and so the original proportions
of the rooms have been destroyed. Those in the
lower story are lighted by the Edwardian windows
and the upper story by new ones. The old staircases have also given way to a single one on the
south side. This leads to a gallery with rounded
corners built by Wyatville about the old court, which
has thus been greatly reduced in size; it has also been
further encroached upon by a transverse gallery and
by the intruded staircase to the present parapet walk.
Both stories are now cut up into a number of small
rooms, none of which presents a single feature of
interest. The old timber-framed building is no
doubt that constructed within the tower for the
lodging of Edward III and Queen Philippa by
William of Wykeham. Certain other features, such
as the internal panelling, date from the reign of
Anne, but the hand of Wyatville is visible upon
almost everything else. Within the tower is an
ancient well 164½ ft. deep.

Windsor Castle: The Round Tower from the Roof of St. George's Chapel
Extending eastwards from the north side of the
Norman gate is the two-storied gallery built for
Queen Elizabeth. The lower story contains various
offices and passages and has a doorway in the
middle surmounted by the initials ER and the date
1583. West of this are two square-headed windows
with a bay window by Wyatville between, and east
of the doorway a series of loops lighting passages
within. The upper stage has three five-light oriel
windows, two of which are now walled up, and a
battled parapet above. The doorway opens into a
passage with steps down to the North Terrace,
through an opening made by Wyatville. The north
front has to the west a deep recess, an oriel over and
two transomed lights. Wyatville's archway is pierced
through a porch-like projection, and has over it the
queen's initials and the date as on the south side.
The upper stage of the projection has a pair of
square-headed windows and above them a large oriel.
Further east are a number of small windows, and in
the upper story several more and another oriel. The
parapet is modern and breaks out over the oriels.
The offices, &c., in the ground story have been
modernized and are devoid of interest. The upper
story or gallery proper is now part of the royal
library, and forms one chamber, 91 ft. long and 12 ft.
wide, entered through older rooms on the east. It
has three rectangular recesses towards the north, corresponding to the oriels, and a rounded end formed
in the absorbed turret of the inner gate-house. Two
of the three southern oriels are masked by bookcases.
Towards the west end of the south wall is the great
chimney, with an elaborately carved chimney-piece of
white stone extending up to the ceiling. It is ornamented with the queen's badges and has along the
top: 'ÆTA TIS 50 REG NI 25 | ER | A° D° 1000
500 83.' The floor is of modern boarding and the
walls are hidden by lofty bookcases. The ceiling is
of moulded plaster, elaborately panelled, with the
arms and badges of Queen Elizabeth, but was raised
and made new in 1832, when the ceiling in the
rounded end was inserted.

Windsor Castle: The Norman Gate, Queen Elizabeth's Gallery, and Henry VII's Building
What is left of Henry the Seventh's building has
suffered much from 'restoration,' the surviving oriel
of a former pair towards the ward and most of the
topmost story being all new. The south face has a
high plinth, above which, towards the west, are two
modern square-headed windows with corbelling over.
This is carried up as a three-sided projection with a
square-headed window on the first floor and an oriel
above. The principal oriel has on both floors a plain
pedestal rising from the ground and breaking out
into three half-hexagons with a transomed light in
each face. Between the two stories are the royal arms
and badges. The place of the old second oriel is
taken by a repetition by Wyatville of the arrangement
to the west. The whole is surmounted by an heraldic
cornice with a battled parapet following the projections of the oriels. The north face of the block has
on the free angle an octagonal turret corbelling out
into a two-storied oriel with divisions alternately
round and square. Another oriel further east was
destroyed by Wyatt, and the front now contains
three tiers of modern windows and is finished off with
a mean battled parapet. Within the block contains
nothing of interest. On the ground floor are a
passage and two rooms devoted to library uses.
The first floor originally contained two rooms, but is
now one, forming part of the library. The uppermost floor contains rooms for visitors.
Before the changes of the 19th century the upper
ward was an oblong court about 360ft. long from
east to west and 250 ft. wide, approached by a narrow
gangway from the space within the inner gate-house.
It had lofty ranges of chambers on three sides, and
was bounded on the west by the ditch of the Round
Tower. About the middle, on the site of the
conduit-head of 1555, stood a pedestal carrying a
bronze equestrian statue of Charles II as a Roman
emperor. The changes in question involved the
building of Wyatville's gallery against the east and
south sides and of his tower porch on the north. He
also filled up the ditch and made round the base of
the slope a public path, separated from the ward by
a low wall, in front of which he set up the king's
statue, after giving it a new granite pedestal and
flanking it with fountain basins. The old way out
of the court southwards was closed and masked at
both ends and a new passage outwards made further
east. St. George's gate was also built at the south-west corner.
The north side of the ward is occupied by the
great range of buildings which contains on the upper
floor the state apartments. Until the middle of the
19th century these formed the lodging of the king
and queen, but since the provision of more private
quarters elsewhere they have been thrown open to
the public, except when needed for the accommodation of a foreign sovereign. Previous to the same
changes the northern range consisted of a series of
buildings arranged about a succession of three open
courts, Brick Court, Horn Court and the Kitchen
Court. These have, however, been built upon or
covered in, and the range practically forms one compact block with a frontage of about 330 ft. and a
maximum breadth of about 150 ft. The north
front is over 400 ft. long.
The west end of the block has on the north a
corner of the old Star building. This is masked as
to its lowest story by Wyatville's porch, and its
upper stories have been 'gothicized' by Wyatt. The
old main block has its ground story partly covered at
both ends by Wyatville's additions, (fn. 50) and its three
remaining windows are insertions by Wyatt. The
first floor has seven large 'Gothic' windows and the
top floor a row like those to the ground story with a
battled parapet over, all Wyatt's work. Projecting
from the south end is the four-storied tower anciently
called La Rose, but now, for no sufficient reason,
King John's. It consists of a square section containing a vice to the floors and roof, above which it
appears as an octagonal turret, and a polygonal
section forming the corner of the block, with windows
on all sides to each floor, and a battled parapet.
From King John's tower there extends eastwards
along the south or principal front of the block a
contemporary two-storied range of six bays, with
square-headed windows to the basement story and
large pointed windows on the first floor, all insertions
by Wyatt. Behind the battled parapet a modern
attic story has been added. The State Entrance
tower, which comes next, was built by Wyatville in
1827, in front of the old gate-house of Edward III.
The ground story forms a vaulted porch with wide
archways on all three sides. The first floor has a
large four-light window on each face, and the clockhouse, which forms the attic story, is lighted by small
loops. The clock has a dial on the south face, and
strikes upon three bells cast by Mears of London in
1830.
From the state entrance tower to the visitors'
entrance, which masks the old kitchen gate, is another
long battled two-storied range, of twelve bays, with
windows like those further west, but copied from his
uncle's by Wyatville, who also partly refaced the
range. The sixth window of the ground story has a
doorway built into its lower half.
The old buildings forming the eastern side of the
ward are to a great extent masked by Wyatville's
gallery, &c., but the upper story, which is Wyatt's,
shows behind, and is pierced by a number of windows.
The back of the Clarence tower is old, and also
shows above the gallery, but the windows are Wyatville's.
The new gallery begins with a sham gate-house
built across the corner of the ward, consisting of an
arched opening below with a large window over,
flanked by two tall polygonal turrets of four stories
with a machicolation between them. Next to the
gate-house is the three-storied tower of the old visitors'
entrance, but the doorway is now a window; over it
is a large oriel on the first floor and two long narrow
windows above. The main gallery is lighted as to
the ground story by square two-light windows and
in the upper by taller square-headed windows of two
lights with tracery above. In the south-east corner
of the ward the gallery breaks out into a large three-sided porch, forming the sovereign's entrance. This
is flanked by octagonal turrets, and has on each face
a wide archway with a large transomed window above,
all crowned by a machicolated parapet with the royal
arms in front and G. R. IIII, 1830. Behind rises
the heavy mass of the Victoria tower. The southern
section of the gallery continues the lines of the eastern
section, but the lower windows are four-centred
openings of four lights with tracery, and several have
doorways through the lower part. Towards the west
the line is interrupted by George the Fourth's gateway, with its wide four-centred archway surmounted
by the royal arms, &c. The gallery is continued
through the first floor of this, but above is a plain attic
story carrying the parapet.
Behind the gallery rise Wyatt's added story between the Victoria and York towers and the heavy
tops of the latter and its new fellow the Lancaster
tower.
The large 13th-century corner tower, now called
Edward the Third's, is square in plan, with a rounded
apse on the outer face. The front towards the ward
has been practically refaced. The ground story once
had a doorway to the vaulted chamber within, but
this was converted by Wyatville into an ugly heavy
window. The large windows on the first floor and
the lights in the two upper stages are Wyatt's.
Traces of several original openings are visible on the
west face, which is partly masked by the adjuncts to
Wyatville's St. George's gateway. The octagonal
appendage to the tower was built by Wyatville in
place of an older one of more simple character, and
has a small window in each face to the several stories
within.
Externally the former ditch along the south front
has been filled up and replaced by lawns and shrubberies extending up to the base of the buildings.
The rounded front of Edward the Third's tower here
shows the battering plinth of its 13th-century basement, and above it four tiers of windows. The
string-course which cuts the second tier marks the
original height of the tower, and the ashlar course
running through the third tier an additional stage
added in 1252–3; above this is 14th-century work.
The short length of building east of the tower has in
front a masking wall by Wyatville, and over it appears
a battering projection which blocks the old exit of the
rubbish gate, containing a row of three square windows,
and three taller openings in the upper floor. The
narrow section next the Lancaster tower has an upper
window of Wyatt's pattern over a square window
below.
The Lancaster and York towers, with the archway,
&c., between them, form the new gate-house to the upper
ward contrived by Wyatville. The archway is four-centred and has over it a row of three windows on
the first floor and three lesser lights above under a
machicolated parapet. The towers have five tiers of
windows of different sizes and are crowned with
heavy machicolations. The Lancaster tower is Wyatville's, but the York tower is substantially of the
12th century, enlarged in the 14th and refaced and
new topped in the 19th. The stretch of building
from the York tower eastwards is of uniform appearance, with three tiers of windows, square two-light
to the ground story, of Wyatt's large pointed pattern
to the main floor, and square-headed lights to the
attic story. The Augusta tower, which projects
midway, has lost its top story and is structurally of
the 12th century, as is the walling east of it, but the
section to the west with the tall battering plinth is
of the 14th century. The tower was refaced by
Wyatville, and has windows corresponding to those
east and west of it.
The large square Victoria tower at the south-east
corner of the castle was built by May in 1677–9 on
the site of an older tower, probably of the 12th century, but was much altered by Wyatville, to whom
are due all the windows and the heavy machicolated
parapet, and an addition behind towards the court.
The tower is four stages high up to the parapet, but
contains five tiers of windows, those on the main
floor being tall square-headed openings with transoms
and tracery. On the east and south faces the windows
form pairs, but the northernmost of the chief south
windows is corbelled out as an oriel, with ornate
parapet. From the York tower there extends eastwards all along the front a raised terrace.
The east front of the castle is broken into three
sections by towers and traversed by a double series
of terraces, an upper between the towers and a
lower in front of them. From the middle upper
section are flights of steps down to the lower. The
large square tower to the north, now called the
Prince of Wales's tower, was rebuilt by May in
1679–80 to match his other tower at the south end,
but like it has had all its features 'gothicized,' and a
larger oriel corbelled out from its east face. Of the
two lesser towers the southernmost is structurally of
the 12th century. The northernmost was also
Norman, but largely rebuilt by May. Under Wyatville they were named respectively the Clarence and
Chester towers, and received new windows with large
oriels facing east. Of the intervening ranges of
building, that between the Victoria and Clarence
towers contains apparently the Norman curtain wall
with large square-headed oriel and other windows
inserted by Wyatville. The next section seems to
have been refaced by May, but contains four more of
Wyatville's windows, one being an oriel. The story
of the third section is similar, but the oriel is much
larger and carried up even with the parapet, with a
richly panelled parapet of its own.
The broad ditch shown in Hollar's view as
traversing the east front of the castle was filled up
in 1676 and the present lower terrace formed upon
its site. This is 430 ft. long, and abuts at either
end against extensions eastwards of the north and
south terraces. These are prolonged beyond it and
combined as five sides of an octagon which incloses
an Italian garden. This inclosure and garden were
laid out by Wyatville, who at the same time built the
descending stairs from the terrace and the orangery
under the north-west section.
The north front of the castle is bounded on the
east by the lofty octagonal Brunswick tower, built by
Wyatville on the site of a 12th-century rectangular
tower. It is four stages high, with five tiers of
windows, diminishing in size upwards, and a machicolated parapet. The corner between it and the
Prince of Wales's tower is partly filled with a modern
block of offices. From the octagonal tower to the
Cornwall tower westwards is a two-storied gallery
built by Wyatville in front of the kitchen, which is
thus masked by it. The lower story is lighted by
six square-headed windows with transoms and panelling under, and the upper story by as many similar
but taller windows with labels. The Cornwall
tower stands approximately upon the site of a Norman
tower destroyed by May, and is characterized by a
huge five-light double-transomed window, which
nearly fills its elevation, and is carried upwards even
above the tops of the flanking buildings. Below it
are two tiers of lesser windows.
The building continuing on from the Cornwall
tower is one of the oldest in the castle and probably
structurally of the 12th century. Its base is masked
by modern offices, above which is a row of Wyatville
windows. The eight large square-headed windows
to the main floor were inserted by Wyatville in place
of earlier openings by May.
The large projecting block that extends as far as
Henry the Seventh's building was once May's Star
building, but it has been so altered that hardly any
of its original features are left. The old windows in
all four stages were 'gothicized' by Wyatt, who
added octagonal turrets at the outer corners. Wyatt
also battled May's plain parapet and obliterated the
doorway in the middle of the ground story. Under
Wyatville the corner turrets were destroyed, that on
the west being shortened to a 'pepper box' rising
above the parapet, and a new block built out at the
east end called George the Fourth's tower. This has
on the ground floor a wide four-centred archway,
flanked by windows, and on the main floor a large
three-sided oriel. Over this are two small windows
and a battled parapet. Quite recently there have
been also corbelled out from the first floor two closets
in connexion with the chambers within. The external
features of the remainder of the front have already
been noticed.
The great terrace along the north front owes its
beginnings to the 'new wharf' of timber made by
Henry VIII. This was replaced from 1574 to 1578
by a more substantial structure in stone, consisting of
a western section 283 ft. long divided by a gate
from the eastern section, which was some 530 ft.
long, continued over the ditch towards the park by a
bridge, and ending in a banqueting-house and steps
down to the park. The banqueting-house was taken
down in 1636 and the gate-house shown in Hollar's
view set up in its stead. The whole terrace was again
reconstructed in its present form for Charles II, who
extended it westwards to the Winchester tower and
built the broad bastion in front of his Star building.
The east and south terraces were formed about the
same time. The total length of the north terrace
before Wyatville's extensions was about 1,060 ft. At
the north-east end of the enlarged terrace is a large
brass sundial made by Henry Wynne, bought in
1679–80, and fixed upon a stone pedestal with
carvings done the same year by Grinling Gibbons.
The present public entrance to the state apartments
is through George the Fourth's tower on the north
terrace, but, as the state entrance has always been on
the south, it will be more convenient to begin the
description of the buildings there.
The Edwardian gate-house that formed the old
entrance was destroyed by Wyatville when he built
the present tower porch. The doorway within this
leads into a Gothic vestibule, built by Salvin in
imitation of old work, right and left, with a pair of
arches in its west side. These open into a 14th-century sub-vault of five bays, with a plain quadripartite stone vault carried by a row of octagonal
pillars. The sub-vault is lighted by Wyatt windows
towards the court. In the east wall is a double
doorway to the grand staircase. In the north end
are two doorways into a further three bays of the
sub-vault, now converted into lavatories. A modern
doorway from this leads into the turret portion of
King John's tower (the original entrance of which
has been altered), and the basement story of the tower
opens out of it. It is lighted on three sides by
modern windows, and covered by a ribbed vault converging upon a central key carved with a large rose,
which gave to the tower its old name of La Rose.
Northward of the sub-vault, from which the tower
is reached, is a passage from without into the old
Brick court, devised by Wyatville as the public way
into the state apartments. North of it is a large
chamber, originally five bays long, now subdivided
into a billiard room, telephone office, &c. The
modern porch outside the south-west corner of the
Star building opens into a wide vestibule. To the
north of it are a number of modernized rooms, in
part given up to the royal library and in part forming
lodgings for the master of the household. The
vestibule is paved with marble quarries, and had once,
towards Brick court, an open colonnade, the two
pillars of which remain. Beyond the colonnade at
each end is a doorway into a contemporary staircase
built in the corners of the court, and behind the
pillars a deep recess with doorways to the grand
staircase and offices beneath it. The east end of the
vestibule opens into a spacious 'Gothic' lobby or
corridor, formed by Wyatt and his successor, which
originally extended through the range from the upper
ward to the north terrace. It is divided into a wide
middle and two narrow side alleys by piers under the
cross walls above and by slender clustered pillars
elsewhere, which carry a nearly flat vault. At the
north end are the steps up from the public entrance
into George the Fourth's tower from the terrace,
and there are similar steps up from the state entrance
at the south end, but this has recently been closed by
a wall with a window in it. On the west side of
the lobby was the entrance to Wyatt's grand staircase, now replaced by Salvin's. To the east of the
lobby is the cloister built by Wyatt in the old Horn
Court. It has alleys with plaster ceilings on all four
verted into a beer cellar. The traceried windows
are now masked towards the alleys by bookcases and
cupboards set within them. The block north of
the old Horn Court is subdivided into rooms and
offices, and has very thick walls, but no visible features
of interest. It may be structurally of the 12th century.
The block east of Horn Court also has thick walls,
and is perhaps of the same early date, but in both
cases all the doorways and windows are modern.
Along the south side of Horn Court is a long subvault like that further west but somewhat wider. Its
walls are probably of the 13th century or earlier, but
the vault and its sustaining pillars date from 1362–3.
The sub-vault is thirteen bays long. The westernmost bay forms a servant's room and the next five
bays the servants' hall, then comes another room,
and the eighth bay forms a passage through from the
ward. The remaining bays are all subdivided into
rooms for servants. A passage from the south-east
corner of Horn Court leads into what was once the
kitchen court. This has on the south a narrow
corridor four bays long, covered by a quadripartite
vault with carved keys, and buttressed outside. It
was built in the 14th century to give greater width
to the hall, which was built above it and a 13th-century sub-vault south of it. This is now the
steward's room, and of five bays, covered by a quadripartite vault springing from shafts along the side
walls. The windows and doorways are modern, but
there has been built into the north side a fine
stone chimney-piece with the rayed rose badge of
Edward IV, brought from some other part of the
castle. The south side of Kitchen Court was completed by the gate-house built in 1362–3, of which
some greatly altered remains still exist. The passage
through it was blocked by Blore. The kitchen
occupies the north side of the court and is oblong in
plan. Its north wall is probably the 12th-century
castle wall, but the rest of the building is apparently
in substance a 14th-century rebuilding. A wide
doorway of this date (now blocked) remains in the
south-east corner. There is a wide chimney in the
east wall, two in each of the north and south walls,
and three in the west wall, all save one filled with
modern gas ranges. The kitchen is lighted by a
range of south windows, and by a lantern story to
its wooden roof, but all this is the work of Wyatville.
The rest of the kitchen court is entirely filled with
recent brick offices of all kinds in connexion with
the kitchen, and many of them can only be lighted
by skylights. The originally open section between
the kitchen and its gate-house was converted by Blore
into a Gothical glass-roofed cloister. The portion of
the eastern range which overlaps the kitchen court,
including the basements of the Brunswick and Prince
of Wales's towers, is all filled with various offices and
store places connected with it.
The state apartments are gained, both by the
public and by visitors of state, by the grand staircase.
The original stair built by May was immediately
within the remains of the Edwardian gate-house, but
was replaced by Wyatt by one filling up the area of
Brick Court, and going westwards from the corridor
devised by him. This in turn was destroyed by
Salvin, who reversed Wyatt's arrangement and built
a new 'Gothic' staircase in the 13th-century manner,
ascending eastwards from two insignificant entrances,
the one from May's vestibule on the north, the other
from the sub-vault on the south. The new stair is
lighted by an octagonal lantern, and has upon the
halpas midway up a white marble statue by Chantrey
of George IV as Sovereign of the order of the Bath.
About the staircase are arranged various armed
figures and military trophies. The stair opens by a
lofty arch into the grand vestibule, a lofty room
standing north and south, and measuring 45 ft. by
nearly 30 ft. The roof is a wooden fan vault with
an octagonal lantern. At the north end, before a
blocked door, is a seated figure of Queen Victoria in
white marble, in the south end three doorways, and
on the east a chimney, and a doorway into Waterloo
Chamber. Round the walls and in cases against
them are all kinds of trophies of arms. The southern
doorways lead into the Guard Chamber. This was
formed by Wyatville by extending the old Queen's
Guard Chamber into the main floor of his new State
Entrance tower at its south end. The room is now
nearly 80 ft. long, and has at its north end a Gothic
gallery, and towards the south three large windows
overlooking the upper ward. The walls are hung
with portraits and collections of weapons, and against
them are cases of arms. The ceiling is a plaster
imitation of a flat-ribbed vault and of six bays. A
doorway in the south-west corner opens into the
old Queen's Presence Chamber. This is 48 ft.
long and 24 ft. wide, and has three windows to the
ward and a good chimney-piece by Bacon opposite.
The walls are hung with panels of Gobelin tapestry
with old mirrors between. The portraits (fn. 51) over the
chimney and over the two doorways are hung within
magnificent carved festoons by Gibbons and Phillipps,
who also carved the cornice. The ceiling was painted
by Verrio in 1678, and depicts Queen Catherine of
Braganza surrounded by the Virtues, &c. The next
room westwards is the old Queen's Audience Chamber.
It is 37 ft. long, with three windows to the south
with mirrors between, and panels of Gobelin tapestry
on the walls. To the north is a good chimney-piece
and two doorways with portraits (fn. 52) over surrounded with
carvings by Gibbons and Phillipps. The portrait of
Mary Queen of Scots above the door from the Presence
Chamber is similarly decorated. The ceiling was
painted in 1678 by Verrio with Queen Catherine
being drawn by swans in a chariot to the Temple of
Virtue.
The two rooms just described, with what is now
called the State Ante-room, are all of the state
apartments that retain the fine carvings and painted
ceilings with which they were decorated under May
for Charles II.
A doorway in the north end of the Audience
Chamber leads into the first floor of the old La
Rose tower. It opens into a vaulted lobby with a
rose as key, whence a vaulted passage goes on to the
polygonal main chamber. This is lighted by four
tall windows and covered with a flat wooden ceiling.
Extending northwards from the west end of the
Audience Chamber is the old Queen's Gallery or
Ballroom, now called the Van Dyck Room, from
the magnificent collection of pictures by that painter
which adorns the walls. The room is 64 ft. long by
22 ft. wide and lighted by five windows facing west.
The walls are hung with crimson damask. Verrio's
painted ceiling has been replaced by one of Wyatville's,
but retains the old carved cornice. The three large
crystal chandeliers are noteworthy.
Northward of the Queen's Gallery is her old Withdrawing Room, known recently as the Zuccarelli
Room, from the collection of his paintings on the
walls. They have now been moved elsewhere and
the room renamed the Picture Gallery. It is 47½ ft.
long by 27½ ft. wide, and has two Wyatt windows
at the north end and a marble chimney-piece in the
east wall. The walls are covered with crimson
damask; the moulded plaster ceiling is by Wyatville.
The room west of the Withdrawing Room now
forms part of the library, but formerly consisted of the
Queen's Bedchamber towards the north and a lesser
room and stair down towards the south. It is lined
with bookcases, and has a plaster heraldic ceiling with
the arms of William IV and the date 1834.
The rooms beyond to the west in Henry the Seventh's
tower and Queen Elizabeth's gallery have already
been dealt with.
A doorway in the north-east corner of the Withdrawing Room leads into the old King's, now the
Queen's, Closet. It measures 28 ft. by 18 ft. and has
damask-covered walls and a plaster ceiling with the
name of Queen Adelaide. It is lighted by one north
window and has a white marble chimney-piece.
Next comes the King's Little Bedchamber, now the
King's Closet. This is about 18 ft. square with a
north window and a marble chimney-piece, and a
Wyatville ceiling with the royal arms and initials
W IV R. Next eastwards is the King's Great Bedchamber, now the Council Chamber, a room 27 ft.
square, with two north windows and a chimney
opposite. The walls are covered with crimson
damask; the ceiling is modern. Against the east
wall is an old state bed. The King's Withdrawing
Room, which follows, is now called the Rubens Room,
from the fine series of paintings by him that is
displayed here. It measures 47 ft. by 31 ft. and has
its north end nearly filled by the large oriel window of
George the Fourth's tower. It has also another
window looking east and on the west, two doorways
with a yellow marble chimney-piece between. The
walls are hung with crimson damask, and the modern
ceiling bears the arms of George IV. In this room is
a fine brass chandelier.
From the two rooms now called the Picture
Gallery and the Rubens Room doorways lead into the
State Ante-room. It was first called the King's Eating
Room, and latterly the King's Public Dining Room,
and is the most interesting of the state apartments,
and the third that retains its original carvings and
painted decorations. It measures 31 ft. by 26 ft.
and has lantern-roofed alcoves east and west. In
the north wall is a simple marble chimney-piece.
The south side formerly had windows towards Brick
Court, but was 'gothicized' by Salvin and the middle
window made into a doorway towards his staircase.
The walls are wainscoted and surmounted by a cornice
carved by Gibbons and Phillipps. About the picture
over the chimney, the openings into the alcoves, and
between the windows are some splendid wood
carvings by the same gifted artists, and the ceiling is
covered with a painting by Verrio of the Banquet of
the Gods. The alcoves originally formed 'music
rooms' and have wainscoted ends with doorways surmounted by more wood carvings by Gibbons and his
mate. Opening out of the western alcove are two
doorways; one opens on to a staircase, the second
into a small octagonal lobby with wainscoted sides
surmounted by other Gibbons carvings.
The eastern doorway of the Rubens Room leads
into the Ante-throne Room and on to the Throne
Room. These originally formed two rooms of nearly
equal area, the King's Privy Chamber and his Presence
Chamber, enriched with carvings by Gibbons and
Phillipps and painted ceilings by Verrio. This
arrangement was altered by Wyatville, who enlarged
the Presence at the expense of the Privy Chamber
and added new ceilings of his own design.
The Ante-throne Room is about 24 ft. square and
has two north windows. The walls have lately been
wainscoted and the east and west sides hung with
large tapestries. The south doorway is flanked by
some beautiful carved festoons by Gibbons and
Phillipps.
The Throne Room is 74 ft. long by 23 ft. wide,
with six windows on the north with mirrors between.
The first two windows once lighted the Privy
Chamber, and the room is crossed next to them by a
flattened arch on the line of the old division, with
imitation Gibbons carvings. The walls are wainscoted
chair high and then covered with blue velvet woven
with the Star of the Garter and the arms of St.
George. The south wall has two doorways with
beautiful Gibbons carvings over, and a chimney-piece
between, with a large portrait of George III surrounded by more carved woodwork. The doorways
at the ends of the room also have carvings over them.
The silver-gilt throne which gives name to the room
once belonged to the Kings of Candy, and stands on
two steps at the west end beneath a velvet canopy
with the arms of Queen Victoria. The eastern
doorway of the Throne Room opens into the Grand
Reception Room, anciently the King's Guard Chamber.
This fine and lofty room is 31 ft. wide and about
90 ft. long, and lighted from the north by the huge
window of Wyatville's Cornwall tower. In the
east side are two chimneys. The west side has two
doorways and there is a third to the south. The
walls are covered with six large panels of Gobelin
tapestry given by Charles X of France to William IV,
and here and there with mirrors. The ceiling is of
plaster, and suspended from it are four crystal chandeliers. The upper part of what was Horn Court is
now filled with the lofty hall called the Waterloo
Chamber. This is about 100 ft. long and 50 ft. wide,
and was built by Wyatville over Wyatt's cloister as a
gallery to hold the portraits commemorative of the
victory of Waterloo given to the nation by George IV.
The room has a shallow gallery at each end, with
entrances under, and an open lantern roof of five
bays with heavy pendants, with skylights and sunlights above. The walls are wainscoted half-way up
with panelling for pictures, and above with fretwork
panelling, also for pictures. Over the chimneypieces and along the side walls are some beautiful
Gibbons festoons, and other fine carvings are hung
on the doorways. The room was redecorated under
the direction of the Prince Consort in 1861.
From Waterloo Chamber and the Old Guard
Chamber doorways open into St. George's Hall.
This preposterous apartment is 185 ft. long and
30 ft. wide, and was formed by Wyatville by adding
to the old hall the area hitherto occupied by the
chapel west of it. It has eleven windows towards
the ward with a corresponding number of recesses in
the opposite wall. At the west end is a Gothic
screen with gallery over, and at the upper or eastern
end another screen against which is placed upon a
low dais a throne or chair of state under a canopy.
The sides are panelled for some way up as high as a
band of plaster work with coloured shields of all the
knights of the Garter from the foundation. In the
recesses opposite the windows are large portraits of
sovereigns of the order from James I to George IV,
and between them brackets with armed figures and
trophies, a recent addition. The nearly flat panelled
ceiling is painted with arms of knights of the Garter,
and its tie-beams rest upon corbels with shields of the
First Founders, and their banners hanging in front.
Along the side walls is a series of busts of Hanoverian
and Guelph kings and princes.
The last of the state apartments is the Private
Chapel, which for lack of a better place is arranged
over the old kitchen gate-house. It consists of a
square nave with canted angles, and a shallow altar
recess projecting northwards, in defiance of all English
tradition. Another recess to the west holds the
organ. The canted angles at the south end of the
nave each contain in their upper part a gallery
for the royal family. Behind the altar is a reredos
with the Creed, the Lord's Prayer, and the Ten
Commandments in the vulgar tongue, and over and
on each side of it painted glass windows inserted
by King Edward VII in memory of Queen Victoria.
East of the altar recess is a small vestry and passage
to the pulpit. The ceilings are of panelled plaster
work. That of the nave rests on a frieze with
Te Deum in English, and has an octagonal lantern in
the middle. The oak pews are arranged along the
walls and across the floor, and the canopied pulpit
and reading desk stand on either side of the altar
recess.
Over various parts of the state apartments are added
attic stories for the accommodation of servants.
The ranges of chambers forming the east and south
sides of the upper ward consist generally of buildings
erected in the 14th century against the outer wall
and within the towers, now connected by Wyatville's
interior gallery, but arranged somewhat differently.
The ground story chambers on the east side have
their chief approach from the ward through the
equerry's entrance, and consist of sets of rooms
formed partly of the subdivisions of Wyatville's building and partly of earlier rooms behind entered as
before from a narrow passage next the outer wall.
On the south side the older chambers are independent of the newer and coupled up by passages
along their north sides. The subdivisions overlooking
the ward are interrupted at intervals by the staircases to the upper floors, and are single rooms connected by passages behind. West of George the
Fourth's gateway the passage is in front and becomes
an ascending stair into the rooms in Edward the
Third's tower. The ground story of the Victoria
tower contains a good set of chambers. None of
these divisions contain anything of antiquarian
interest, except the sallyport into the old south ditch.
This is now entered through the floor of one of the
southern rooms and consists of a passage about 5 ft.
wide with pointed head, lined with excellent masonry.
Where it passes under the walls it is spanned by
round-headed arches, which also contract the passage
to 3½ ft. Beyond the passage the sallyport becomes
a long tunnel with a descending floor, cut through
the solid chalk. Its outlet in the ditch is now
blocked and buried.
In the basement story between George the Fourth's
gateway and Edward the Third's tower is the lower
part of the 14th-century 'rubbish gate' destroyed
by Wyatville, consisting of the gate-hall and its flanking chambers for the porter.
The lower story of Edward the Third's tower is
almost entirely filled with small rooms for various
purposes, but is otherwise a lofty chamber covered
by its original 13th-century vault. (fn. 53) This is now
inaccessible, but part of that in the rectangular section
can be seen in one of the rooms next the ward.
Wyatville's sham gate-house called the equerry's
entrance opens into a hall from which access may be
had to a staircase in its south turret leading up to an
ante-room on the first floor. Northward of this are
other rooms communicating with the private chapel
and the rooms in the north end of the east front.
The first of these is the octagonal chamber in the
Brunswick tower, with which are connected the
China Gallery north of the kitchen and a serving
room on the east of it. Then comes the Dining
Room, a fine chamber over 40 ft. long and 30 ft. wide,
with a northern triplet of windows and a large oriel
to the east. Next follow in turn the Crimson,
Green, and White Drawing Rooms, so called from
the prevailing colour of their decorations. The first
is 64 ft., the second 52 ft., and the third 37 ft. long,
with a uniform width of 24 ft., and all are lighted by
large windows looking east. From the White Drawing Room to the Victoria tower inclusive is a series
of small rooms forming the private apartments of the
king and queen. They all have windows towards
the park, and besides intercommunicating in the old-fashioned way have an independent narrow passage
behind, from which separate access may be had to
each. The first five rooms include the King's
Council Chamber and his writing room, the Red
Drawing Room, an ante-room, and the king's bathroom. In the Victoria tower are the queen's bedroom with bathroom on the north, dressing room
and sitting room, and in the upper floors the
rooms occupied by the royal children. These rooms
contain some rare cabinets and a few historical
portraits.
The whole of the royal apartments are traversed
on the west by the great gallery or long corridor
built against them as a general means of communication. The first section extends from a small chamber
next the ante-room mentioned above, and is about
130 ft. long and 16 ft. wide. It is lighted by
windows towards the ward and has a flat panelled
ceiling. On the walls are hung divers pictures and
cases of miniatures. The second section of the
corridor is deflected through the block over the
sovereign's entrance and is only 60 ft. long. On
one side of it is the sovereign's staircase, leading up
from a spacious vestibule on the ground floor. From
the landing of this is a bridge to the corridor, and
on the opposite side of the latter a doorway into the
semi-octagonal oak room above the sovereign's porch.
Beyond the oak room the corridor runs westward for
another 240 ft. and then ends in a narrower section
about 40 ft. long against Edward the Third's tower.
This portion also contains portraits and pictures and
other historical relics.
The range of chambers along the south front
which is traversed by the long section of the corridor
consists of two divisions: (1) a practically unaltered
row extending from the Victoria nearly to the York
tower usually occupied by members of the royal
family; and (2) a further series, very irregularly disposed, continuing to the west end of the range, for
the accommodation of foreign royalties and their
suites. Like the private apartments of the king and
queen, the first-named series has a separate passage of
communication in the rear parallel with the long
corridor.
The rooms in the upper stories of all the towers
and the extensive series added over the eastern and
southern ranges serve for the accommodation of the
numerous members of the household as well as for
the domestic servants, and are all of befittingly simple
character.
It only remains to add that beneath both the
southern range and the northern front of the northern
range are considerable basements containing coal
stores, heating chambers, &c., connected by tunnels
beneath the upper ward. There are also a number
of storage vaults under the north terrace.