CHAPTER XLVII.
THE LEA, STRATFORD-LE-BOW, &c.

OLD BOW BRIDGE.
"Longarum hæc meta viarum."—Virgil.
The River Lea—Bow Bridge—Stratford-attè Bowe, and Chaucer's Allusion thereto—Construction of the Road through Stratford—Alterations
and Repairs of the Bridge—Don Antonio Perez, and other Noted Residents at Stratford—The Parish Church of Stratford-le-Bow—The
School and Market House—The Parish Workhouse—Bow and Bromley Institute—King John's Palace at Old Ford—St. John's Church—The Town Hall—West Ham Park—West Ham Abbey—Abbey Mill Pumping Station—Stratford New Town—The Great Eastern Railway
Works—"Hudson Town"—West Ham Cemetery and Jews' Cemetery—St. Leonard's Convent, Bromley—The Chapel converted into a
Parish Church—Bromley Church rebuilt—Allhallows' Church—The Church of St. Michael and all Angels—The Manor House—The Old
Palace—Wesley House—The Old Jews' Cemetery—The City of London and Tower Hamlets Cemetery.
In order to make our way to London Bridge,
which is our destined starting-point in the next
and concluding volume, we may now drop quietly
down the river Lea, passing between green and
flowery meadows, and re-visiting on our way some
of those shady nooks by which, as we have seen in
our wanderings northward, Izaak Walton so much
loved to lounge when engaged in his favourite
pastime of angling. We shall in due course find
ourselves at Bow Bridge, which crosses the Lea
between Whitechapel Church and Stratford.
The river, after it leaves Clapton and Hackney,
passes on by the Temple Mills to Stratford, or
as it is frequently called, Stratford-le-Bow, which
lies between Hackney and Whitechapel parishes.
Here it divides its course into several channels,
the principal stream being that which is spanned
by Bow Bridge. The name of Stratford evidently
points to the existence near this spot of a ford
which doubtless connected London with the old
Roman road to Camalodunum, whether that were
at Maldon or at Colchester. In the course of
time, however, the primitive ford was superseded
by a bridge, which appears to have been called
"Bow" Bridge, from the arches (arcus), which
supported and really formed the structure; or
possibly because it was constructed of a single
arch, as suggested by the writers of the "Beauties
of England and Wales." Hence the village was
called "Stratford-attè-Bowe," under which name it
is immortalised by Chaucer, in the Prologue to
the "Canterbury Tales," in terms which seem to
imply that five centuries ago it was a well-known
place of education for young ladies. Most of our
readers will remember the comely prioress, how,
in the words of the poet—
"French she spake full fayre and fetisly,
After the scole of Stratforde-attè-Bowe,
For French of Paris was to her unknowe."
We may be pardoned for suggesting as a solution
of the meaning of this allusion, that in the adjoining parish of Bromley, within a mile of the bridge,
stood the Convent of St. Leonard's, usually termed
the Priory in Stratford, and that the nuns of that
religious house probably taught the French language
among other accomplishments to the young ladies
of that favourite suburb.
But it is time that we said something about the
old bridge, which was really an historic structure.
Fortunately we have to guide us, not only the
"Survey" of Stow, and the "Collectanea" of
Leland, but also a document, the substance of
which was given upon oath at an inquisition taken
before two justices of the peace in the year 1303,
and which is to be found at length in Lysons'
"Environs of London."
"The jurors," writes Lysons, "declared that at
the time when Matilda, the good Queen of England,
lived, the road from London to Essex was by a
place called the Old Ford, where there was no
bridge, and during great inundations was so extremely dangerous that many passengers lost their
lives; which, coming to the good queen's ears, she
caused the road to be turned where it now is—namely, between the towns of Stratford and Westham, and of her bounty caused the bridges and
road to be made, except the bridge called Chaner's
Bridge, which ought to be made by the Abbot of
Stratford. They said further, that Hugh Pratt,
living near the roads and bridges in the reign of
King John, did of his own authority keep them in
repair, begging the aid of passengers. After his
death his son William did the same for some
time, and afterwards, through the interest of Robert
Passelowe, the King's Justice, obtained a toll,
which enabled him to make an iron railing upon
a certain bridge, called Lock Bridge, from which
circumstance he altered his name from Pratt to
Bridgewryght; and thus were the bridges repaired,
till Philip Bagset and the Abbot of Waltham, being
hindered from passing that way with their wagons
in the late reign, broke down the railing; whereby
the said William, being no longer able to repair it,
left the bridge in ruins; in which state it remained
till Queen Eleanor of her bounty ordered it to be
repaired, committing the charge of it to William de
Capella, keeper of her chapel. After which, one
William Carlton (yet living) repaired all the bridges
with the effects of Bartholomew de Castello,
deceased. The jurors added that the bridges and
roads had always been repaired by 'bounties,' and
that there were no lands or tenements charged
with their repair except for Chaner's Bridge, which
the Abbot of Stratford was bound to keep in
repair."
In the early part of the present century Bow
Bridge consisted of three arches. It was very
narrow, and bore marks of venerable age; but the
numerous alterations and repairs of four centuries
had obscured its original plan, and, indeed, left it
doubtful how much of it was the work of the good
Queen Matilda, and, indeed, whether any part of
the original structure remained. The bridge was
taken down about the year 1835, and superseded
by a lighter and wider structure.
Stratford-le-Bow has few historical or personal
associations for us to record. It may, however, be
remembered that it was the residence of Don
Antonio Perez, who endeavoured to obtain the
crown of Spain and Portugal, but who, failing in
the attempt, fled for refuge to England as an
asylum. He is said to have lived here whilst
negotiating with Elizabeth for aid in support of his
pretensions, and his residence here is rendered all
the more probable from the fact that the parish
register contains the entry of the burial of a
foreigner who is called his treasurer. Another
resident in Stratford was Edmund, Lord Sheffield,
who distinguished himself so much in the sea-fights
off our coast against the Spanish Armada. Lysons
states that John Le Neve, the author of "Monumenta Anglicana" and other learned antiquarian
works, also had a house within the parish. The
exact situation, however, of these two residences
is not known.
The church of Stratford-le-Bow was built as a
chapel of ease to Stepney early in the fourteenth
century, in consequence of a petition from the
inhabitants of this place and of Old Ford, stating
the distance of their homes from their parish
church, and the difficulty of the roads, which in
winter were often impassable on account of the
floods. In consequence, Baldock, Bishop of London, issued a licence for the erection of a new
chapel upon a site taken from "the king's highway" for that purpose. The chapel ultimately
blossomed into a separate parish church, and was
consecrated as such in 1719. It consists of a
chancel, nave, and aisles, separated from the nave
by octangular pillars supporting pointed arches,
At the west end is a belfry tower, rather low, with
graduated buttresses, and embattled. The edifice,
we may add, stands in the middle of the high
road, the houses receding slightly from the straight
line on either side, so as to allow of a roadway on
each side of the church.
A little to the east of the church was formerly a
building which had been used at various times as
a school and as a market-house. Brewer, in his
"History of Middlesex," when speaking of Bow,
says: "At a small remove from the church towards
the east is a building which appears to have been
used as a market-house. A room over the open
part of this building had long been occupied as a
charity school, on the foundation of Sir John
Jolles, established in 1613, and intended for
thirty-five boys of Stratford, Bow, and St. Leonard,
Bromley." About the year 1830 this building
was removed in order to enlarge the churchyard,
and a new school-room erected in its stead at
Old Ford.
At a short distance, on the north side of the
main street, stood the parish workhouse, which
evidently was at one time a mansion of handsome
proportions, its rooms being ornamented with fine
ceilings and carved chimney-pieces. It was pulled
down several years ago, its site being converted to
business purposes.
On the north side of the high road, at a short
distance westward of Bow Church, stands a large
and attractive building, the upper part of which,
known as the Bow and Bromley Institute, is used
occasionally for concerts, lectures, and similar
entertainments. The ground floor serves as the
Bow Station of the North London Railway, which
here runs below the road. Near the above is the
Bow Road Station on the Great Eastern Railway,
which crosses the Bow Road by a viaduct.
The hamlet of Old Ford is situated a little
to the north of Bow. "In this place," write
the compilers of the 'Beauties of England and
Wales,' "stood an ancient mansion, often termed
King John's Palace, but which does not appear to
have been at any time vested in the Crown. The
site of this mansion was given to Christ's Hospital
by a citizen of London named William Williams,
in 1665. A brick gallery, which has been recently
covered with cement, is now the only relic of the
ancient building. The present (1816) lessee of
the estate is Henry Manley, Esq., who has here a
handsome residence, and has much improved the
grounds and neighbourhood." The last vestige of
this building was demolished a few years ago.
Stratford—the "ford of the street, or Roman
way from London to Colchester"—lies on the
east side of the river Lea, and is consequently in
the county of Essex. It is also on the Great
Eastern Railway, whence the Colchester and the
Cambridge, and the Blackwall and Woolwich, and
the Woodford and the Tilbury branch lines diverge;
and it is a ward of the parish of West Ham. The
church, dedicated to St. John, is a large and handsome edifice, in the centre of the town, and is in
the Early English style. Its site is on land which,
up to the time of its erection, in 1834, had been
an unenclosed village green. At first the church
was founded as a chapel of ease to the parish
church of West Ham; but about 1859 it was constituted a vicarage, and Stratford became a parish
of itself.
The Town Hall, in the Broadway, at the corner
of West Ham Lane, was opened in 1869. It is a
handsome building, in the classic style, and has a
frontage of about 100 feet each way. It has a
tower about 100 feet in height, and the building
is surmounted by various figures and groups of
statuary, illustrative of the arts, science, agriculture,
manufacture, commerce, &c. The lower part of
the building comprises some commodious public
offices, and on the first floor is a spacious hall,
artistically decorated.
At a short distance eastward is West Ham Park,
a large plot of ground open for the purpose of
recreation for the inhabitants of this district. It
was formed a short time ago, under the auspices of
Sir Antonio Brady, and occupies what was formerly
Upton Park, the seat and property of the Gurneys.
The mansion has been taken down. The park was
laid out with the aid of City funds. In December,
1876, a grant was voted—£1,500 for necessary
works carried out, and £675 for the annual maintenance of the grounds.
Stratford (or West Ham) Abbey was founded
here in 1135, for monks of the Cistercian order,
the abbot of which was a lord of Parliament.
There are considerable remains of the building.
Abbey Mill Pumping Station, close by, is an
extensive range of works, in connection with the
main drainage of North London. As the works
here are very similar to those already described in
connection with the Pumping Station at Chelsea, (fn. 1)
there is no occasion for entering upon a further
account of them.
Stratford being, as stated above, the point where
the two main branches of the Great Eastern Railway leading respectively to Cambridge and Colchester diverge, has of late years given birth to
a new town, which has become quite a railway
colony. Here the company has its chief depôt for
carriages, engines, and rolling stock, and yards for
their repairs. The works, which were established
here about the year 1847, cover a very large extent
of ground, and give employment to upwards of
2,500 hands, independently of about 600 others
engaged in the running sheds. The various
buildings used as workshops for the different
branches of work required to be done, either in the
construction or the repair of engines, &c., are large
and well lighted, and embrace foundries for casting,
forges, fitting rooms, braziers' shops, carpenters'
shops, saw-mills, &c. The principal erecting shops
are about 120 yards in length, by sixty in breadth.
The machinery throughout is of the most perfect
description, and adapted for almost all kinds of
work; one shop alone contains upwards of 100
machines for the performance of the most delicate
work. One of the latest and most useful pieces of
machinery in operation in the smiths' shop is the
hydraulic riveting-machine. To give some idea
of the amount of labour accomplished in these
works, we may state that about 500 engines, 3,000
carriages, and 10,000 wagons are here kept in
constant repair, and that the sum paid weekly in
wages in the locomotive department alone amounts,
on an average, to about £6,000.
The new town which has sprung up in the neighbourhood of the works is the residence of several
hundreds of skilled employés—engineers, drivers,
and others. At first it was called Hudson Town, in
compliment to the "Railway King;" but when he
lost his crown, the name fell into disuse. In 1862
the New Town numbered some 20,000 souls; and
now probably the population has nearly doubled
itself. The town, it may be added, has its literary
institution, a "temperance" public-house, besides
numerous places of worship.
At a short distance eastward of the railway works,
by the side of Forest Road, which runs parallel
with the Colchester line, stands an industrial school,
with spacious grounds attached, in the rear of
which is the West Ham Cemetery, and the Jews'
Cemetery. In the latter, which covers about eleven
acres of ground, and was formed in 1858, on the
closing of the Jews' Cemetery at Mile End, are the
vaults of the Goldsmid and the Lucas families, of
Sir David Salomons, and other leading members
of the Jewish community, together with a domecrowned mausoleum for the members of the house
of Rothschild.
Adjoining Bow on the south-east, in the parish
of Bromley, was, as above-mentioned, a convent
dedicated to St. Leonard, stated by some historians
to have been founded in the reign of William the
Conqueror, by William, Bishop of London, for a
prioress and nine nuns; other writers, however,
are of opinion that it was founded at a much
earlier period. Indeed, when, or by whom, the
convent was really founded, seems a very difficult
matter now to decide. Stow says it was founded by
Henry II., in the first year of his reign (1154);
but Dugdale, in the "Monasticon," says, "This
is a mistake, it was in being before." Weever fixed
the foundation still later, by saying that "this
religious structure was sometime a monastery replenished with white monks, dedicated to the honour
of our Saviour Jesus Christ, and Saint Leonard;
founded by Henry II., in the twenty-third year
of his reign." But Strype, in his "Survey of London," says, respecting this statement of Weever:—"How to reconcile the said antiquary with an elder
than he, namely, John Leland, and the 'Monasticon
Anglicanum,' I cannot tell, for Weever writes that
this monastery was replenished with white monks,
and founded by King Henry II., in the twenty-third
year of his reign; whereas Leland and the 'Monasticon' reports it a religious house for nuns, founded
by William, Bishop of London, that lived in the
Conqueror's time," which was nearly a century
earlier. Lysons, in his "Environs of London,"
attempts to unravel the apparently opposite statements of Stow, Weever, Leland, Dugdale, and others,
by supposing Weever to have been altogether in
error, he having confounded the Abbey of Monks
at Stratford (the remaining vestiges of which is
now called West Ham Abbey), in Essex, with the
Convent of Nuns, in Middlesex, which convent,
says Lysons, was invariably said in ancient wills to
have been at Stratford, Bow, on account of its
contiguity to that place. And he further says,
respecting these two religious houses: "It is
difficult to distinguish them in the calendars in the
Tower; nor can it be always done without referring
to the original will, where the word 'Prioresse'
will determine the grants which belong to this
house at Bromley, even if 'Beati Leonardi' should
not follow."
Weever states that the convent of which he was
speaking was in Middlesex, and dedicated to St.
Leonard; whereas, the convent at Stratford he
knew to be in Essex, which he says that he visited
himself "after going over 'Bow Bridge,' in his
journey towards West Ham." Leland, who was
engaged in making historical collections relating
to religious houses, by order of Henry VIII., is
reported to have met with but little encouragement,
and to have died insane in the neighbourhood of
St. Paul's; "uncertain," says Fuller, "whether his
brains were broken with weight of work or want of
wages." This report of Leland's—for such it really
is—was printed in Latin, and entitled "Antiquarii
de rebus;" and in it he says, respecting the Priory
at Bromley, "Gul. Episcopus London fundator."
Historians generally have followed this dictum,
since Leland wrote, and ascribed the first foundation, both of the structure and religious society of
St. Leonard, to William, Bishop of London, in the
Conqueror's reign. But Speed, in his "History
of England and its Monasteries," speaks of the
Norman bishop, with respect to the Priory at
Bromley, as a "benefactor" only; and this is
quoted against Leland in the "Monasticon." Mr.
Dunstan, in his "History of Bromley and St.
Leonard," says: "That William, Bishop of London,
was a benefactor there can be no doubt; nay,
more, it is probable that he enlarged the original
priory about the period mentioned. He might
also have much enlarged the Lady Chapel attached
to the priory which was dedicated to St. Mary;
and this will account for the mixed style of the
old church, it having been partly of Gothic, partly
of Saxon, and partly of Norman architecture, which
would indicate that the structure was not all the
work of one hand, nor even of one age; for whilst
the round-headed arches in one part were both
Saxon and Norman, the pointed arches, yea, even
the main or principal doorway, and heavy buttresses,
were purely Gothic, and therefore of more ancient
date, in the other. It is very probable," he continues, "that William, Bishop of London, might
have removed some portions of the original chapel,
and added others of more extensive and lofty
dimensions, suited to the style of Norman architecture." This hypothesis is particularly strengthened
by the fact that when the old chapel or church was
taken down in 1842, a considerable quantity of
old building materials, chiefly consisting of very
ancient wrought stone, was found embedded in
various parts of the walls; evidently the fragments
of some very ancient religious structure, which
probably had occupied the same, or nearly the
same site, anterior to the episcopacy of William, in
the Conqueror's reign. Moreover, the arches which
were found blocked up and plastered over, and
covered with many generations of whitewash within,
and rough-coat without, in 1825, were all of the
Gothic style, and evidently led into some building
(as Lysons conceives) on the south side; whereas,
according to Newcourt and others, the nunnery or
convent in the days of Henry VIII. was at the
west end of the chapel; and the lofty arch at the
western end of the church contained the screen
which separated the chapel from the convent and
cloisters.
"Speed, therefore, views the antiquity of the
Convent of St. Leonard as being anterior to that
of Henry II., as mentioned by Stow and Weever,
and considers Henry II. as a benefactor only; and
in the same light he considers all the others whose
benefactions and confirmations have been named,
including William, Bishop of London, among the
rest. And, therefore, in tracing that antiquity to a
reasonable, nay, to a probable source, it does appear
from the many foregoing considerations that the
original foundation of the Convent or Priory of
St. Leonard at Bromley may, with the greatest
propriety, be attributed to the time of Edgar's
reign, about one hundred years before William
the Conqueror landed on the British shores—namely, somewhere about the middle of the tenth
century, or nearly coeval with the re-establishment of the monastery at Westminster." All trace
of the old priory buildings, with the exception of
the chapel, has long since passed away. The
chapel was dedicated to St. Mary, and at the
dissolution of the religious houses it was converted
into a parochial church. Lysons says that "the
chapel of St. Mary, with the convent of St.
Leonard, Bromley, is mentioned in several ancient
wills." The fabric consisted of a nave and chancel,
and the latter was separated from the former by a
chancel-screen and by being raised one step. The
principal entrance, at the western end, was in the
same situation as that in the present building,
but consisted of a Gothic arched doorway. This
doorway, it is conjectured, was inserted when the
old chapel first became appropriated as a parish
church, as upon the removal of the north wall
there was found, bricked up and plastered over, a
very ancient doorway of small dimensions and of
Norman architecture. The chancel of the old
church occupied precisely the same position with
that of the present church, as portions of the
walls of the old building are now standing, both in
the north and south-eastern ends of the present
church. In the chancel are five stone stalls, or
sedilia, through one of which was a small doorway
opening at once into the churchyard. At the
western end of the nave was a capacious gallery,
and the body of the church was fitted up with pews
of the orthodox fashion. In 1692 the chancel was
lengthened by Sir William Benson, the then lord of
the manor, "by the addition of a projecting recess
in which was placed the communion-table." At
the west end of the church was a large roundheaded arch, ornamented with lozenge and other
Saxon or early Norman mouldings; this was much
disfigured by the galleries inside, and also by the
vestry-room outside. It has been suggested that
the church as it remained down to the present
period was only the chancel and lady chapel of a
much larger edifice; and that the arch here spoken
of was that which separated it from a nave, of which
every trace has long since perished. In 1843 the
new church was opened, the old fabric having been
demolished piecemeal. It is a neat brick-built
structure, consisting of a nave, chancel, and sideaisles, with a tower and dwarf spire at the southwest corner. The style of architecture adopted
is that of the Norman period, and some of the
windows are enriched with coloured glass.
The font is of Norman design, and of the usual
size; it is said to have been for many years expelled from the church, and to have lain in the
churchyard. In 1825, when the old church was
repaired and "beautified," the churchwardens had
the antique device on the font re-cut, and it was
placed upon a Gothic pedestal. Although it was
so far restored to its original position, it appears to
have been discarded by the officiating minister; a
small portable font having been used for many
years. It has, however, now been fully re-installed,
and the Gothic character of the pedestal changed
into Norman.
The old church was particularly rich in monuments and funeral hatchments. In the nave
formerly lay a large stone which contained the
brasses of a man and woman, with much ornamental work over their heads. "They seem," says
Strype, "to be some nobleman and his wife interred
in this religious house. Perhaps the Earl [John
De Bohun] and his wife, already mentioned." If
so, it would have dated from about 1336. The
stone was afterwards removed to the entrance of the
old church, and formed a part of the floor; it is
now placed in the floor of the tower. Against the
south wall of the church was a large mural monument of marble, to the memory of William Ferrars,
and dated 1625. On the erection of the new
church this monument was placed against the north
wall. Busts of the deceased and his wife, who was
Jane, daughter of Sir Peter Van-Lore, are represented under arches supported by pillars of the
Corinthian order. The man is habited in a doublet
and ruff, and the hands of both are united, resting
on a skull. In a panel over the effigies is the
motto—
"Live well, and dye never,
Dye well, and live ever."
A curious and interesting monument is that of
Abraham Jacob, Esq., who died in the year 1629.
The figures of himself and his wife are represented
kneeling under arches, the monument being adorned
with the arms of the family and its alliances. The
monument is particularly chaste and emblematical.
The principal feature in the ornamentation is the
representation of a vine, on the leaves of which
are written the names of his twelve children. The
names of five that were married, and their respective
alliances, are expressed by the quartering of their
several coats of arms; whilst the younger offshoots
indicate the fruits of the respective unions, on the
leaves of which offshoots are inscribed the names of
their children. The names of the seven unmarried
remain above on the leaves of the old vine. This
monument was erected by Sir John Jacob, who,
after the death of his father, Abraham Jacob, had
purchased the manor and advowson of Bromley, in
1634. He is said to have been a very rich and
loyal citizen, and one of the "farmers of the customs." He was a great sufferer during the Civil
War, and was at one time confined as a prisoner
in Crosby House.
Bromley possesses also three or four other
churches, besides chapels and meeting-houses for
members of various denominations. Allhallows'
Church, an edifice of Early English architecture, was
built in 1874, from the proceeds of the sale of the
church of Allhallows Staining, Mark Lane, and is
in the patronage of the Grocers' Company. The
large church of St. Michael and All Angels, which
is of similar architecture, and consecrated in 1865,
contains sittings for about 1,300 worshippers.
About the middle of the seventeenth century
Sir John Jacob built a "large brick edifice" on
the site of the old priory. The house was surrounded by a small park and gardens, the east
side of which was washed by the river Lea. The
building, which was called the Manor House, was
demolished early in the present century, and its
site covered by rows of small cottages, whilst
some portion of the grounds was added to the
churchyard.
That Bromley in its time has had a fair share
of aristocratic inhabitants may be seen from the
fact that, in the parish rate-books of the seventeenth
century, besides the name of Sir J. Jacob, appear
those of Sir Henry Ferrers, Sir William Turner,
Sir John Poole, Sir Nicholas Crisp, Sir J. Fleetwood, Sir John Chambers, Sir Richard Mundy,
Lady Stanhope, Lady Munden, and several other
titled personages.
At a short distance westward of the church, a
large brick-built mansion—one of the former
glories of the place—is still standing, but cut up
into three or four tenements. It is commonly
known as the Old Palace, and is sometimes called
Queen Anne's Palace. The building is very lofty,
and has a slightly projecting wing at either end.
The interior bears numerous traces of its original
splendour in the shape of stuccoed ceilings, carved
panellings and chimney-pieces, as well as marble
floors. A long row of wooden houses standing
at right angles with the mansion, and forming one
side of another street, occupies the site of the
ancient stables. Another curious old house in this
street, with the words "Wesley House" painted
over the doorway, is said to have been one of
the first meeting-houses in which John Wesley
preached.
Before quitting Bromley, we must not omit to
mention the bowling-green, the village stocks, the
whipping-post, the pond and ducking-stool, and
the parish pound, all of which remained in full
operation down to the early part of the present
century.
Adjoining Bromley, and at the eastern end of
the Mile End Road, not far from Bow and Old
Ford, is the disused Jewish Cemetery, formerly
belonging to the Great German Synagogue in
Duke's Place. Here are buried nearly all the
members of the Jewish religion who have been
connected with the City and the East End of
London. Among them lies Baron Nathan Rothschild, the great millionaire, and head of the wellknown banking and financial house which bears his
name. He died in 1836, and his funeral was
perhaps the most imposing ever witnessed in these
districts. This cemetery was closed in 1858, on
the opening of the new Jewish Cemetery near
Stratford New Town, as mentioned above. The
burial-grounds for Jews are mostly laid out and
planted in a manner similar to other cemeteries.
Formerly their burial-place was "outside the City
Wall, at Leyrestowe, without Cripelgate."
In this neighbourhood—at South Grove, Mile
End—is the Cemetery of the City of London and
Tower Hamlets Company. It occupies about
thirty acres of ground, north of Bow Common, and
is skirted on the south-east side by a branch of the
Great Eastern Railway, on its way from Stepney
Station to Bow Road and Stratford. The cemetery,
which is altogether a dreary place, now holds the
remains of many thousands of persons, mostly of
the poorer classes, many of whom occupy nameless
graves.
It now only remains to remind our readers that
in the course of the present volume we have
endeavoured to act as their guides over a far
larger extent of ground than that which we
traversed in all our previous volumes. We have
lounged in their company about the old mansions
of Chelsea and Kensington; we have wandered
with them through the green fields of Bayswater
and Paddington, of Marylebone and the Regent's
Park; we have climbed with them the "northern
heights" of Hampstead and Highgate Hills; and
lastly, we have reconnoitred the northern outskirts of Dalston and Hackney, Stoke Newington
and Tottenham; and roamed hand in hand with
them the pleasant meadows that fringe the river
Lea. Here we must leave our readers for a time,
purposing in the following volume to take them
through quite another tract of country, not romantic
in its outward features, but full of historic interest,
on the south bank of the Thames, feeling assured
that but scanty justice will have been done to
"London, Old and New," unless we include in
our perambulations both Southwark and Lambeth,
Bermondsey and Deptford, Kennington and
Walworth, Wandsworth and Putney, Fulham and
Hammersmith; in each, and all of which, once
rural villages, though now large and populous
towns and busy "hives of industry," we shall
studiously endeavour so to blend the present with
the past as to avoid, and, if possible, to escape
the risk of proving ourselves dull and profitless
companions.