B
Bachelden, or Bacheldre
BACHELDEN, or BACHELDRE, a township, in that part of the parish of Churchstoke
which is in the hundred of Cawrse, in the incorporation of Forden, county of Montgomery,
North Wales; containing 137 inhabitants. The
tithes of this township, and of Lower Hopton, which
are payable to the warden of Trinity Hospital in
Clun, have been commuted for a rent-charge of
£166.
Bâchymbyd
BÂCHYMBYD, with Ysceibion, a hamlet, in
the parish of Llanynys, union and hundred of
Ruthin, county of Denbigh, North Wales, 2
miles (N. W.) from Ruthin: the population is returned
with the parish. It is situated near the left bank
of the Clywedog, which falls into the river Clwyd a
short distance off. Lord Bagot has a fine seat here,
remarkable for its pleasant situation, and the extent
of its ancient woods, some of the chestnut-trees having acquired a very large growth: the estate came
into the possession of this noble family by the marriage of Sir Walter Bagot with Jane, daughter and
sole heiress of Charles Salusbury, Esq.
Badland
BADLAND, with Kinnerton and Salford,
a hamlet, in the parish of Old Radnor, within the
liberties of the borough of New Radnor, union of
Kington, county of Radnor, North Wales, 2
miles (N. E.) from New Radnor: the population is
returned with Kinnerton.
Bagillt
BAGILLT, a rising town and hamlet, in the
parish and union of Holywell, Holywell division of
the hundred of Coleshill, county of Flint, North
Wales, 3 miles (E. by S.) from Holywell; containing about 2300 inhabitants. This place, which is
divided into Bagillt-Vawr and Bagillt-Vechan, is
situated close on the southern shore of the estuary
of the Dee, on a road which, branching off from the
great Chester and Holyhead road at Northop, runs
through Flint, and rejoins the main line at Holywell.
The Chester and Holyhead railway also, opened in
1848, passes by Bagillt. The Halkin mountain,
rich in mineral treasures, rises on the south-west;
and on the western side of this eminence, the ancient
line of demarcation called Wat's Dyke proceeds
through the township to its termination by the Dee,
near Basingwerk Abbey. Here are very extensive
collieries, affording employment to upwards of 250
men, and yielding annually more than 40,000 tons
of coal, which is chiefly exported coastwise to Ireland, the Isle of Man, Liverpool, and the distant
parts of North Wales. There are also at this increasing place three separate and extensive establishments for smelting lead-ore, which annually
produce upwards of 25,000 tons of that metal;
and connected with them are refineries for extracting from the lead the proportion of silver
which it contains: the amount of the latter metal
thus annually procured, averages above 300,000
ounces. Subordinate to these principal establishments are extensive works for manufacturing the lead
into sheets, pipes, and bars; and in the various departments nearly 600 men are constantly employed.
Steam-vessels, which maintained a constant communication between Holywell and Liverpool, used to
ply daily between the latter place and the quay at
Bagillt, but they have been discontinued.
A church, dedicated to St. Mary, a beautiful structure in the pointed style, was erected some years
ago, chiefly by the munificence of the late David
Pennant, Esq., and the aid of Jesus' College, Oxford.
The living is a perpetual curacy; income, £150;
patron, the Vicar of Holywell. A National school
has been built near the church, capable of containing
230 children; an infants' school is also supported in
connexion with the Established Church, together
with a Sunday school. There are places of worship
for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan
Methodists; a British school is supported by the
dissenters, and they have three Sunday schools.
Between Gadlys and Pentre Bagillt is an eminence,
called Bryn Dychwelwch, or "the Return Hill," from
a tradition that it is the spot where Henry II. gave
the order to his forces to retreat, when engaged in the
battle of Counsyllt, or Coleshill; for the particulars
of which, see the article on Holywell.
Baglan
BAGLAN, a parish, in the union and hundred
of Neath, county of Glamorgan, South Wales,
4 miles (S.) from Neath, on the road to Cardiff; comprising the townships of Higher and Lower Baglan,
and containing 548 inhabitants, of whom 137 are in
Higher, and 411 in Lower, Baglan. This parish,
which comprises 2500 acres, is delightfully situated
in the midst of rich and beautifully diversified scenery,
bounded on one side by mountains whose acclivities
are thickly wooded, and commanding over the lower
grounds a magnificent view of Swansea bay. The
beauty of its situation, and the local advantages it
possesses, have made it a favourite place of residence; and within its limits, in addition to the
neat cottages which are profusely scattered over its
surface, is a greater number of gentlemen's seats
than is usually to be found in a single parish. The
village has an air of rural simplicity, and a prepossessing appearance of cheerfulness and tranquillity.
The soil is of different kinds, part being meadow and
grazing land of good quality, and some tolerably
good arable land; but the greater portion of the
parish consists of mountainous ground, affording
merely pasturage for sheep, and on the side next the
sea are extensive banks and plains of sand. There
are several veins of coal of a good bituminous quality,
of which some are worked; and a considerable quantity of fine clay is obtained, part of which is used in
the manufacture of earthenware, and part conveyed
to the different copper-works in the neighbourhood;
together with some iron-ore, which is smelted at the
Neath Abbey iron-works. A creek, called Baglan
Pill, which falls into the Neath a little below BritonFerry, affords a facility for conveying the produce of
the mines, and other commodities, in craft of from
twenty to thirty tons' burthen. The great South
Wales railway, also, will pass near Baglan.
The living is a consolidated vicarage with that of
Aberavon, both endowed with the great tithes. The
church, dedicated to St. Baglan, is a neat and appropriate building, and the churchyard is shaded
with yew-trees of luxuriant growth. In 1844 a National school for boys and girls was established at
Pant-y-Swan; it is supported by subscription, and
intended for the parish of Briton-Ferry as well as
this parish. In 1846 a school was commenced at
Tonmawr, which is maintained by a stoppage of
6d. per month on the wages of the men, and 3d.
on the wages of the boys, employed by the Tonmawr Coal Company. There are also three Sunday
schools in the parish, one of them in connexion
with the Church, held in the National school; one
held by the Calvinistic Methodists in their place
of worship, by Pant-y-Swan; and the third belonging to the Independents, held near the Tonmawr
colliery. A sum of £2 per annum, chargeable upon
the turnpike-trust of the Neath district, is annually
distributed among the poor, together with two sums
amounting to 7s. 6d.; the whole principally arising
from a donation of £30 by Richard o'r Bwlch, and
one of £12. 10. made by George Williams of Blaen
Baglan.
Of the gentlemen's seats with which the parish is
adorned, the principal are, Balgan House, the residence of Howel Gwyn, Esq., once the residence of
the Rev. William Thomas, by whom it was built,
the friend of Mason and Gray, who were his occasional visiters; Baglan Hall, the seat of Griffith
Llewellyn, Esq.; Baglan Cottage and Greenfield
Lodge, two ornamental cottage residences on the
road-side, both the property of that gentleman; and
Baglan Lodge. Mynydd-Gaer, in the parish, a
small circular intrenchment, is supposed to be either
of British or of Danish origin.
Bala
BALA, a township, market and assize town, and
the head of a union, in the parish of Llanycil, hundred of Penllyn, county of Merioneth, North
Wales, 18 miles (N. E.) from Dôlgelley, and 204
(N. W. by W.) from London; containing 1257 inhabitants. This place derives its name, which signifies
"a running out," from its situation near the efflux
of the Dee from the adjoining lake of Llyn Tegid.
Its early history is involved in obscurity, and nothing
peculiarly remarkable has been with certainty recorded of it. The high artificial mount called Tommen-y-Bala, at the south-eastern extremity of the
town, is thought to have been constructed by the
Romans, who built a small fortress upon its summit,
to protect the pass towards the sea, and overawe the
turbulent inhabitants of the district. This mount was
afterwards used by the Welsh, as one of a chain of
forts which they established across this portion of the
principality, for the purpose of defending themselves
against the invasions of the lords-marcher. A branch
of the Roman Watling-street, passing from the station
Mediolanum, in Montgomeryshire, to that of Heriri
Mons, near Festiniog, proceeded through or very
near the present town of Bala; and at the upper end
of the lake, the remains of a Roman station, now
called Caer Gai, are very conspicuously situated,
around which a great quantity of Roman bricks lie
scattered. A castle was erected here, in 1202, by
Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of North Wales, probably, as Mr. Pennant supposes, on or near the site
of a more ancient castelet, called "Castell Gronw
Bevr o Benllyn." Some vestiges of it are still traceable on the eastern side of the Dee, near the point
where that river emerges from the lake. Bala was
probably dependent upon the castle of Harlech, and
in the reign of Edward II. was committed to the
custody of Einion de Stanedon, constable of that
castle: in the reign of Edward III. both these places
were given in fee-farm to Walter de Manni, a distinguished military commander, who was appointed
sheriff of this county for life.
The town, which consists of one wide street and
a smaller one, not lighted, but well supplied with
water, is situated on the road from Dôlgelley to
Corwen, near the north-western extremity of the
lake; and although in an unfertile district, and destitute of all the advantages derived from water-carriage, in appearance it is excelled by few towns in
the principality. The surrounding country consists
chiefly of wild moors and heathy mountains, from
which circumstance Bala has become the general
rendezvous of gentlemen resorting to this part of
Wales for grouse-shooting. A reading-room has
been established. There are two factories for carding wool; and Bala and its neighbourhood have for
a long series of years been noted for the knitting of
woollen stockings, socks, and gloves, but this manufacture has of late been on the decline: in the year
1830, 32,000 dozen pairs of stockings, 10,000 dozen
pairs of socks, and 5500 dozen pairs of gloves, were
made. The hosiery is distinguished for the softness
of its texture, which causes it to be held in high
esteem for winter wear, and universally recommended
by the medical faculty. The market, which is on
Saturday, is well attended; and fairs are held on the
Saturday before Shrovetide, chiefly for hiring servants, and May 14th, July 10th, October 24th, and
November 8th, chiefly for the sale of live stock:
that in July is a great fair for lambs.
Bala was anciently a corporate town, and till
about the middle of the last century appears to have
exercised in some measure the privileges it had received at a very early period from various sovereigns.
The earliest document extant which throws any
light upon the history of the borough, is a charter
bestowed by Edward II., in the fifth year of his reign,
dated the 18th of February, 1311, at Windsor; in
which the king grants the town to his beloved burgesses of Bala, to be held by them and their successors in fee-farm for ever, upon paying yearly to
the Exchequer of the Crown at Carnarvon, the sum
of £10. 2. This charter, although it does not contain any grant of liberties, yet partly implies that the
place was a royal free borough. Other charters were
conferred upon the inhabitants in the 17th of Edward II., 5th of Edward III., and 2nd and 20th of
Richard II.; and of these, the charter of Edward II.,
which is a highly interesting record, founded upon
due inquiry into the circumstances of the district,
grants that the town shall be a free borough, and its
inhabitants free burgesses, with the privilege of
choosing a mayor and two bailiffs. It gives freedom
from toll and other exactions as well in England as
in all other lands of the king, permission to have a
guild merchant with a hanse, and the usual franchises
for regulating trade. It also allows a free prison
within the borough, for all trespasses there, except
cases of life and limb; and institutes a weekly
market on Saturday, and two fairs, one on the vigil,
feast, and morrow of the Apostles Peter and Paul,
and the other on the eve, day, and morrow of the
Invention of the Holy Cross; together with other
liberties and privileges of the usual kind. These
valuable customs, which doubtless existed for centuries in full operation, have lately, though not within
the memory of man, fallen into disuse, and the venerable borough, having in this manner lost its constitution, is now under the jurisdiction of the county
magistrates. The spring assizes, and the winter and
summer quarter-sessions for the county are held here;
as also is a county debt-court, established in 1847,
and having jurisdiction over the registration-district
of Bala. The town-hall is a plain substantial building, in the principal street: attached to it is one of
the county bridewells, which is under the regulation
of the magistrates for the hundred, but is too small
to admit of an extended system of classification.
A chapel of ease was erected by subscription, in
1811; it is a small plain structure, with a low tower
surmounted by a spire. There are places of worship
for Calvinistic Methodists, Independents, and Wesleyans; and the great annual meeting of the Calvinistic body in Wales, called the Bala Association, is
held in the town. Academies have been established
here of late years for the education of young men,
connected respectively with the Calvinistic Methodists and the Independents. The Calvinistic Methodist
College was founded in 1837, to educate candidates
for the ministry, and prepare young men as schoolmasters: the students are at present about twenty in
number. It is supported by the Calvinistic Methodist
congregation in North Wales, Liverpool, and Manchester, and in part from the interest of a small fund
derived from the same source. The education is
free, the only expense incurred by the students being
for board and lodging, which they provide for themselves in the town. Of the candidates for the ministry,
a few proceed to University College, London, or the
Scottish universities. The lecture-room is an apartment attached to the meeting-house; it is spacious,
in good repair, and well furnished with maps, &c.:
there is a library connected with the academy, containing encyclopedias, books of history, and some
standard English authors, but consisting principally
of works upon divinity. The Independent College was
established at Llanuwchyllyn in 1842, and removed to
Bala in November of the same year. Its objects are
precisely similar to those of the other academy; it is
supported by collections, donations, and subscriptions
from the Independent body of North Wales, and by
the profits of a periodical called the Dysgedydd, or
"the Instructor." The students are about twelve
in number; their education is quite free, and they
receive £12 per annum each towards their support.
Those intended for the ministry proceed to any college to which they can gain admission; some have
gone to Airedale College, in Yorkshire, some to
what is called the Presbyterian College, at Carmarthen, but the majority to the academy at Brecon.
A Grammar School was founded under the will,
dated 1712, of Dr. Edmund Meyrick, chancellor of
St. David's, who bequeathed land for the instruction
of thirty poor boys of North Wales in a grammar
school, and for providing each of them with clothing.
The "Bishops of St. Asaph and Bangor for the time
being, and the heir of Ucheldre for the time being,"
were appointed visiters and trustees; but it appears
that the funds are now in the hands of the Principal
and Fellows of Jesus' College, Oxford, who appoint
the master of the school. The number of boys is
thirty; the master has a salary of £80 per annum,
with a house and some land, and £60 per annum are
expended in clothing for the scholars, who are all
chosen by the master. The value of the endowment
has considerably increased of late years. In 1842 a
charity school was commenced here, under the general
endowment left by Dr. Williams in the last century,
from which the master receives £25 per annum; and
in 1843 a British School was established, which is
partly supported by subscriptions and donations, but
principally by the parents of the children. There
are also two or three Sunday schools. The poorlaw union of which this town is the head, was formed
January 10th, 1837, and comprises the five parishes
and townships of Llanddervel, Llangower, Llanuwchyllyn, Llanvawr, and Llanycil; it is under the
superintendence of twelve guardians, and contains a
population of 6953. The Rev. T. Charles, of Jesus'
College, one of the founders of the British and
Foreign Bible Society, and an indefatigable promoter of Sunday schools and circulating charity
schools, resided at Bala, where he died in 1814; and
was interred in the parochial church. He also distinguished himself as the author of an extensive
work, in the Welsh language, entitled Geiriadur
Ysgrythyrol, or a "Scriptural Dictionary."
Bala lake, called also Llyn Tegid and Pimble
mere, is the largest in Wales, being about four miles
in length, and in some places nearly a mile in
breadth; its greatest depth, which is opposite Bryn
Goleu, is about forty-six yards. Its overflowings,
when the wind rushes from the mountains at the
upper end, occasion much damage: in stormy weather it receives a great accession of water from the
mountain torrents, and rises to the height of seven
or eight feet above its ordinary level, covering a
considerable portion of the vales of Penllyn and
Edeyrnion, and even endangering the security of
the town itself. The river Dee has its source under
Aran Penllyn, a high mountain at the head of the
lake, and has been said by Giraldus Cambrensis,
Drayton, and others, to flow through the lake without mingling its waters; as the Rhone is fabled to
pass through the lake of Geneva, and the classic
Alpheus through the Adriatic sea. This assertion
is partly founded on the circumstance that salmon,
which are plentiful in the river, are never found in
the lake; while gwyniaid, which swim in shoals in the
lake, are never seen, except rarely, in the river: but
this may be accounted for by the instinct which all
creatures exhibit, in resorting only to those haunts
most congenial to their habits, and most convenient
for feeding and shelter. The lake abounds with pike,
perch, trout, and eels: there are also a few roach, and
innumerable gwyniaid (so called from the whiteness
of their scales), a species of fish found only in Alpine
waters, and resembling whitings in flavour, which
spawn in December, and are caught in great numbers in spring and summer. The fishery, in the
thirteenth century, belonged to the abbot and monks
of Basingwerk: the whole is now the property of
Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart., who has a handsome villa,
called Glàn Llyn, pleasantly situated upon the margin of the lake. From the summit of Tommen-yBala, at the north-eastern extremity of this fine sheet
of water, the view to the south-west is exceedingly
grand: on the right it is fringed by a line of rich
meadows, and on the left is the bridge, under which
the Dee passes; a large rocky hill, the sides of which
are well clothed with wood, rises over it in picturesque beauty, and hence the eye is directed along
a ridge of craggy elevations, to the lofty Arans, with
their two pre-eminent summits, Aran Mowddwy and
Penllyn. On the north-west soar the Arenigs, Vawr
and Vach, with the cloud-encircled summit of Cader
Idris terminating the prospect.
The local tradition vulgarly connected with the
formation of this lake, in common with most other
large pieces of water in the principality, is, that it
occupies the site of the palace and grounds of a rich,
haughty, and irreligious prince, whose wealth, acquired by acts of rapine and murder, was preserved
by oppression and the violent exercise of arbitrary
power; till at length, disregarding the warnings he
had often received from a superhuman agent, he drew
down upon himself the vengeance of an offended
God, and his magnificent mansion was suddenly
swallowed up, whilst celebrating the birth of his
eldest son's first-born, and surrounded by a gay concourse of lords and ladies, whom he had invited to
participate in the festivity. The towers and parapets
of the palace are credulously reported to have been
frequently seen, by the boatmen of former times,
when the bright full moon reflected its lustre upon
the surface of the unruffled waters.
Bangor
BANGOR, a parish, in the union of NewcastleEmlyn, upper division of the hundred of Troedyraur, county of Cardigan, South Wales, 5½
miles (E.) from Newcastle-Emlyn; containing 210
inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated on the river
Teivy, the banks of which, in this part of its course,
present finely varied and beautifully picturesque
scenery. The land, which is mostly inclosed and in
a state of cultivation, usually produces good crops.
Blaen Dyfryn, the property of John Lloyd Davies,
Esq., to whom it passed by marriage, is pleasantly
situated here. The living is a discharged rectory,
rated in the king's books at £5. 6. 8., and endowed
with £200 royal bounty, with the rectory of Hênllan
annexed; present net income, £163; patron, the
Bishop of St. David's. The tithes of Bangor have
been commuted for a rent-charge of £87; and there
is a glebe of fifty-two acres, valued at £45 per
annum. The church, dedicated to St. David, is a
small plain building, occupying a remarkable situation above a bold reach of the river. Near it is a
circular mount surrounded by a moat, called Castell
Pistog, which is said to be the burial-place of the
slain in a certain battle supposed to have been fought
here. A rent-charge of £1 per annum is distributed
at Christmas among the poor, arising from a bequest
by Rees David Morris.

ARMS.
Bangor
BANGOR, a city,
port, parish, and, jointly
with Beaumaris, the head
of a union, in the hundred of Isgorvai, county
of Carnarvon, North
Wales, 9 miles (N. E.)
from Carnarvon, and 238
(N. W. by W.) from London; containing 7232 inhabitants, of whom 4987
are in the borough. The
origin of this small but ancient city is involved in
great obscurity. Leland, on the authority of the
Chronicle of John Harding, stales that, prior to the
establishment of Christianity in Britain, Condage,
a prince of the early Britons, erected a temple here,
which he dedicated to Minerva. Upon the correctness of this testimony, rests the supposition that the
city existed during the continuance of the Roman
empire in Britain; but the sole evidence of its having
been occupied by the Romans is derived from a hewn
block of gritstone, three feet four inches in length,
and eighteen inches broad, found at Tŷcôch, two
miles distant from the city, bearing a Latin inscription of undoubted antiquity, but which is the only
relic of the Romans known to have been discovered
in the immediate neighbourhood. At a further distance from the city, at Vaenol, some labourers in
1819 discovered the upper stone of a quern, or handmill, about two feet below the surface, and beneath
it a collection of silver Roman coins, with a pair of
small antique brass spurs.
The earliest authentic account of the place occurs
in the history of the first religious establishment
founded here, which, according to some authorities,
originated with Deiniol, or Daniel, son of Dynawd, or
Dúnothus, abbot of the monastery of Bangor-Iscoed,
in the county of Flint; who is said to have built a
college for the instruction of youth, and for the support of the clergy, in this part of North Wales, about
the year 525. This college continued to be dependent on the parent establishment at BangorIscoed, from which it is supposed to have derived its
name, till the year 550, when Maelgwyn Gwynedd,
King of North Wales, called by Gildas "Maglocunus," endowed it with lands and divers privileges,
and erected it into a see, of which Daniel was consecrated first bishop by Dubricius, Archbishop of
Caerlleon-on-Usk. Daniel died about four years
after his consecration, and was buried in Ynys Enlli,
or Bardsey Isle, at that time the usual place of interment for men of distinguished sanctity. According
to other authorities, it appears that Dúnothus, abbot
of Bangor-Iscoed, who, in the year 597, headed a
deputation of seven bishops and a great number of
learned men, to meet St. Augustine, whom Gregory
the Great had sent into Britain to propagate the
Christian faith, founded a small establishment on or
near the site occupied by the present cathedral, as a
cell to the abbey of Bangor-Iscoed, and placed in it
monks from that institution. This small monastery
afterwards became the asylum of the few brethren
that escaped the massacre of the monks of BangorIscoed by Ethelfrith, King of Northumberland, who,
in 607, advancing to Caerlleon-ar-Ddyvrdwy (now
Chester) against the Britons, whose army he defeated
in a decisive battle, fell with fury upon the monks of
Bangor-Iscoed, then assembled near Caerlleon to
assist their countrymen with their prayers, and put
about 1150 of them to death. About fifty only
saved themselves by flight into the mountains, and
afterwards united with the brethren at this place in
forming a religious establishment, to which they
transferred the name of their ancient monastery,
Bancôr, the "chief society," or Bon côr, the "good
choir."
Notwithstanding the uncertainty of the original
foundation of the religious fraternity at Bangor, it
appears that the place was erected into a see about
the year 550, and that Deiniol was the first bishop.
It continued, no doubt, to be a suffragan bishopric to
the archiepiscopal see of Caerlleon, though no regular succession of its bishops is recorded for a space
of nearly 300 years. The first of Daniel's successors
of whom there is any mention, is Elvod, who, according to the Annales Menevenses, died in 811. The see
is said to have been endowed with additional lands
by Rhodri Mawr, and also by his son and successor,
Anarawd, in gratitude for a victory over the Saxons,
on the banks of the Conway. In 925, Sisyllt ab
Clydawc gave some lands to the church; and King
Athelstan is stated in the archives of the cathedral
to have been a benefactor to the see. Mordav,
Bishop of Bangor in 940, together with Chebur,
Bishop of St. Asaph, accompanied Hywel Dda,
King of Wales, to Rome, in order to obtain from the
pope a confirmation of that monarch's celebrated code
of laws.
In 973, Iago, sovereign of North Wales, having
been expelled from his dominions by a rival prince
named Howel, applied for assistance to Edgar, King
of England, who, desirous of fomenting the quarrel,
advanced with an army to Bangor, and compelled
Howel to allow him an equal share in the sovereignty.
The English monarch, during his continuance in this
city, assumed a sovereign authority in Wales. He
confirmed the privileges of the see, and augmented
its possessions with lands and other gifts, erecting
also, on the south side of the cathedral, a church,
which he dedicated to St. Mary, and which, according to Browne Willis, was used as a parochial church
till the reign of Henry VII. Coins of this king's
reign have been recently found near the cathedral.
In 1071, the city suffered material injury, and the
cathedral was destroyed by an English army that
invaded this part of the principality. About the year
1080, Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in order to
assist his descent upon the Isle of Anglesey, and to
secure the conquests he had already made in North
Wales, erected a castle, about a quarter of a mile
south-east of the city, on the ridge of hills which
bounds the vale. Of this castle, no particular event
is recorded in the history of the principality; probably after the restoration of Grufydd ab Cynan to
the throne from which the earl had expelled him, it
was either destroyed immediately, or suffered to fall
gradually into ruins. The city recovered from its
devastation, but the cathedral remained in a ruinous
state till 1102, when a synod was held at Westminster, for the reformation of the Church, at which
Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, presided, assisted
by Girard, Archbishop of York, Roger, Bishop of
Salisbury, and others; and at which also Hervé, or
Herveus, Bishop of Bangor, the first Welsh prelate
that ever attended a council in England, and who
had been consecrated in 1093 by Thomas, Archbishop
of York, was present. The members of this synod,
lamenting the decay of religion in this part of North
Wales, which they attributed in a great degree to
the destruction of the cathedral, gave large sums of
money towards its restoration. Giraldus, who accompanied Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, in
his circuit to preach the crusades through Wales, relates in his Itinerary, that they visited the city of
Bangor, and were well received by the bishop of that
diocese, with whom they remained one night; and
that on the following day, after the celebration of
mass by the Archbishop of Canterbury, Guianus,
Bishop of Bangor, was compelled by his importunity to take the cross, to the infinite regret of all
the people.
From this time, Bangor appears to have remained
in a flourishing state till the year 1211, when King
John, invading North Wales, encamped his forces on
the banks of the river Conway, and detached a portion of his army to burn the city. This they accomplished; and, entering the cathedral, they took
Robert the bishop (who had succeeded to the see
upon the death of the prelate elected in place of
Giraldus, who declined the office) from before the
high altar, and made him prisoner, but afterwards
liberated him, on the payment of a heavy ransom.
During this reign, Bangor suffered great devastation
in the wars that were carried on between the king
and Llewelyn; and in the reign of Henry III., it
was dreadfully ravaged by the continual struggles
for empire between that monarch and Davydd ab
Llewelyn, whom Richard, at that time Bishop of
Bangor, and a partisan of the King of England's,
excommunicated. In these wars the cathedral was
again destroyed, and the bishop, taking refuge in
England, was honourably entertained for nearly
twenty years in the monastery of St. Alban's.
On the final invasion of Wales by Edward I., the
neighbourhood of Bangor became the scene of several
engagements, and, in particular, of that disastrous
conflict in which fifteen knights, thirty-two esquires,
and one thousand soldiers, were slain by the Welsh
forces under Richard ab Walwyn, after crossing the
Menai strait, at low water, by a bridge of boats.
At this time Anian, Bishop of Bangor, being in high
favour with Edward, obtained from that monarch the
restoration of various endowments, which had been
confiscated during the preceding reign, together with
many additional grants and extended privileges. He
procured a grant of Bangor House, in Shoe-lane,
London, as a town residence for the prelates, when
attending their duties at court; and for the better
maintenance of the episcopal dignity, he obtained by
letters-patent from the crown the return of all writs,
with all waifs and estrays, in his several manors, and
also in the villages of Tregaian, Abydon, and Bôdychan. In 1284, having had the honour of baptizing
the young prince Edward, who was born that year
at Carnarvon, he received a grant of the two ferries
of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, and the manors of
Bangor, Castell-Mawr, and Garthgogo in the county
of Carnarvon, with the cantred of Trefôs in the Isle
of Anglesey; and, two years afterwards, a confirmation to himself and his successors of a third part of
the tithes issuing out of the king's demesnes, mills,
and lead-mines, in England and Wales. When
Edward I. made his extent, or survey, of the revenues of the Prince of Wales, the Bishop of Bangor
procured a commission from Chancery, to inquire
into the tenures of his see; the survey taken, called
the Bishop's Extent Book, is still preserved among
the Harleian Manuscripts in the British Museum.
In 1329, Matthew de Englefield obtained for the
inhabitants the grant of an annual fair on the eve,
day, and morrow of St. Luke, and of another on the
eve, day, and morrow of St. Trillo.
In the reign of Henry IV., John Swaffham, having
written a book in condemnation of the doctrines of
Wickliffe, was advanced to the see, as a recompense
for his services. During the rebellion of Owain
Glyndwr, Llewelyn Bifort, a Welshman, having been
promoted to the bishopric by that chieftain without
the sanction either of the king or of the Archbishop
of Canterbury, his name appears, in 1406, among
the chief persons who were outlawed for the part
they took in that rebellion. This prelate was made
prisoner, in 1408, by the king's troops, in the battle
fought in Yorkshire, in which the Earl of Northumberland was slain; but not having taken any active
part in the engagement, or borne arms against his
sovereign, his life was spared. The conspiracy excited by Owain Glyndwr against the authority of
Henry IV., is said to have been contrived chiefly in
the house of David Daron, Dean of Bangor, who
was outlawed by that monarch. During this insurrection the city was devastated, and the cathedral
destroyed; the latter continued in a state of ruin for
nearly ninety years, till Bishop Dean, or Denny,
rebuilt the choir, and, on his subsequent translation
to the see of Salisbury, left his mitre and crosier,
which were of considerable value, to his successor at
Bangor, on condition that he should complete those
other parts of the building which had been already
begun. In the reign of Richard III., Dean Kyfin,
who was instituted about the year 1480, was a zealous
and active partizan of the Earl of Richmond, the
success of whose enterprise he materially contributed
to promote, and from whom, after his accession to
the throne by the title of Henry VII., he obtained a
grant of lands, and permission to endow a chantry in
the south transept of the cathedral, at the entrance
of which he was interred.
During the civil commotions in the reign of
Charles I., the city became the scene of great desolation. The services of the Church were suspended,
and the cathedral was used as a stable for the horses of
the parliamentarian troops; the monuments, shrines,
and other decorations of this venerable structure
were defaced and mutilated, and the revenue of the
see was alienated and appropriated to the use of the
parliament. It was, however, restored to the see
after the interregnum; and, in the first of James II.,
Humphrey Lloyd, bishop of the diocese, obtained an
act of parliament for augmenting the revenues of
the see, providing for the repair of the cathedral, and
the maintenance of the choir. This act annexed to
the bishopric the archdeaconries of Bangor and
Anglesey, and gave two-thirds of the tithes of the
comportionate rectory of Llandinam to the chapter,
as trustees, for the support of the choir, and the repair of the fabric. In Bangor originated the celebrated Bangorian controversy, between Dr. Benjamin Hoadley, who presided over the see from 1715
to 1721, when he was translated to Salisbury, and Dr.
Thomas Sherlock, who succeeded him in this diocese,
and was also translated to Salisbury in the year 1738,
on the advancement of Dr. Hoadley to the see of
Winchester.
The city is delightfully situated in a vale, bounded
on the south by lofty and precipitous rocks, and
having at the eastern extremity a fine opening
towards the adjacent straits of the Menai, commanding an extensive view of the beautiful bay of Beaumaris, bordered on the opposite side by the rocky
shores of Anglesey and the town of Beaumaris. It
consists principally of one street, from which others
branch off on the north side, and of some smaller
streets on the acclivity of an eminence on the south
side; with several small streets on the lower ground,
near the sea: it is lighted and macadamised. The
neighbourhood comprehends a variety of pleasing
and picturesque scenery, and in many parts is characterised by features of striking grandeur. At the
distance of a few miles, on one side, are the rugged
mountains of Snowdonia, and on the other the wide
expanse of Beaumaris bay; while in the immediate
vicinity of the town are varied walks and rides
abounding with objects of romantic interest.
The vast sums expended by government in the
improvement of the Holyhead road, and the stupendous works which have been raised in prosecution of
that object, together with the more recent opening
of the Holyhead railway, have contributed to the
importance of the city, and, combining with the
natural advantages it possesses, might elevate it to a
very prominent rank among the commercial towns of
the principality. Bangor, however, which is a member of the port of Beaumaris, carries on little or no
trade of importance: coal and the common necessaries
of life are the only goods brought to it, and these
are landed from the ships upon the coast, and conveyed away in carts at low water, without the aid of
quays or wharfs. The coast is accessible to ships
of eight hundred tons' burthen, which can enter the
bay at any state of the tide; and all vessels, however
large, can ride securely in the channel, well sheltered
from storms, except in violent easterly gales, to
which they are exposed. Steam-packets ply regularly between Bangor and Liverpool. The Bangor
slate-quarries are noticed under the head of Llandegai. The market is on Friday, and, during the
summer, a market is also held on Tuesday; they are
well supplied, but provisions of all kinds are dear.
The fairs are on April 5th, June 25th, September
16th, and October 28th. There are also large cattle
fairs, called "Borth fairs," held at the Menai bridge,
in the parish, on August 26th, September 26th,
October 24th, and November 14th, to which a greater
number of cattle is brought than to any other fairs in
North Wales.
By the act for "Amending the representation of
the people in England and Wales," Bangor was constituted one of the six contributory boroughs within
the county, which unite in the return of a member
to parliament. The right of election is vested in
every male person of full age occupying, as owner,
or as tenant under the same landlord, a house or
other premises of the clear yearly value of not
less than ten pounds, provided he be capable of
registering as the act directs. The number of tenements of this value within the limits of the borough,
which are minutely described in the Appendix, is
about one hundred and ninety. The mayor of Carnarvon is the returning officer. A county debt-court
is fixed here; it was established in 1847, under the
general small-debts' act, and its powers extend over
that part of the registration-district of Bangor and
Beaumaris which is in the county of Carnarvon.
The town-hall and shambles are situated nearly in
the centre of the town.
Prior to the Union of England and Ireland, a
variety of plans were suggested for conducting the
great road from London to Dublin over the Menai
strait, in lieu of the ancient ferry; but it was not
until the increased communication between the two
countries, subsequently to the Union, had invested
the subject with much additional importance, that it
obtained the consideration of government. In 1801,
official instructions were given to Mr. Rennie, to
survey the strait, and to propose a plan and estimate
for a bridge. That eminent engineer accordingly
prepared four designs, two of them for crossing, by
means of a cast-iron arch or arches, with others of
stone at each extremity, at the rock called Ynys-yMôch, or "Pigs' Island," about one hundred yards
from the ferry, where the present suspension bridge
has since been erected; and two for crossing at the
Swelly rocks, half a mile further southward. But
though no objection was offered to the plans, they
were not carried into execution; and nothing further
was done regarding the measure until the year 1810,
when a parliamentary committee was appointed to
inquire into the state of the roads from Shrewsbury
and Chester to Holyhead. This committee having
reported that no injury would result to the navigation
of the Menai by the construction of a bridge across
that strait, as proposed by Mr. Rennie, notwithstanding the propagation of contrary opinions by meddling
or interested persons, instructions were issued from
the Treasury to Mr. Telford the engineer, to survey the above-named roads, and to take into consideration the best lines that could be adopted, and
the best mode of crossing the strait. Mr. Telford
proposed two designs, one applicable to the Swelly
rocks, and the other to Ynys-y-Môch. The latter,
which was intended to consist of a cast-iron arch, five
hundred feet in the span, was accompanied with his
decided preference, and both were transmitted by
the Lords of the Treasury to the parliamentary
committee again appointed, in 1811, to inquire into
the state of these roads. Still, although the erection
of a bridge on one of the plans furnished by that
able engineer was strongly recommended by the
committee, no means were then adopted for carrying
either into effect.
In 1815, the state of the Irish road through Wales
being again brought under the consideration of parliament, an act was passed appointing a commission
to direct the accomplishment of the proposed improvements, and authorizing a grant of money from
the Treasury. The commissioners appointed Mr.
Telford their principal engineer, who, in 1817, was
requested to state his opinion regarding the erection
of a bridge, on the suspension principle, across the
Menai, and, if he deemed it practicable, to prepare
a plan and estimate. Early in the following year,
therefore, this gentleman presented to the commissioners a report, design, and estimate, fixing upon
Ynys-y-Môch as the most proper situation. This is
a mass of solid rock, rising steeply from the edge of
the water, nearly adjacent to the Anglesey shore,
with which it is connected by a narrow reef, dry at
low water. The opposite, or Carnarvon shore, is
composed of clay, shale, sandstone, &c., lying in
strata much resembling coal measures; and rises from
the surface of the water perpendicularly to the height
of about forty feet, above which the ground still rises
to the ridge separating the valley of the strait from
that of the city of Bangor. The breadth between the
shores, at high water, is three hundred and six yards,
and at low water one hundred and sixty. Mr. Telford proposed that the distance between the centres of
the supporting pyramids should be five hundred and
sixty feet, the roadway to be preserved uniformly
one hundred feet above the reach of spring-tides,
and the height of the pyramids to be fifty feet above
the level of the roadway. The main chains were to
be sixteen in number, with a deflection of thirtyseven feet; and their extremities were to be secured
in a mass of masonry built over stone arches between
each of the supporting piers and the adjacent shore,
four on the Anglesey side, and three adjoining the
Carnarvonshire shore, each arch to be fifty feet in
the span. The roadway was divided into two carriage-ways, each twelve feet wide, with a footpath
between them, four feet in width.
This design having been approved of by the commissioners, a report was made to the Lords of the
Treasury, which was laid before parliament, and a
grant of £20,000 was obtained for commencing operations, which took place in July 1818. In 1819,
the commissioners, in spite of considerable opposition, obtained another act of parliament, which not
only empowered them to build the bridge, levy tolls,
and purchase Bangor ferry, but to make a new road
from the bridge across the Isle of Anglesey to Holyhead. The first stone was laid on August 10th, at
which period the number of men employed amounted
to upwards of two hundred. In the early part of
1821, it was determined, in lieu of securing the
chains over stone arches, to carry them through tunnels, and fasten them to the solid rock that lines the
shore. This alteration in the original plan allowed
the arches to be sprung at the distance of sixty-five
feet above high-water mark, those next the main
piers being made semicircular, and those towards the
land gradually diminishing segments, the crowns of
the whole being parallel with the superincumbent
roadway. Thus, there is only as much masonry over
the arches as is necessary for a proper entablature
and cornice; and the small piers being tapered from
ten feet to seven and a half in thickness at the spring
of the arches, whereby the latter were increased from
fifty feet to fifty-two and a half in the span, a greater
degree of lightness and elegance has been imparted
to the structure. At this period, about four hundred men were employed on the work; and the
first cargo of iron-work was delivered on the 3rd of
August, the whole having been contracted for to
be made of the best hammered iron at Shrewsbury,
whence it was conveyed by canal to Chester, and
from that port hither by sea.
In 1822, application was made to parliament for
an act to extend the period for completing the bridge,
which, as stated in the former act, would have expired in July 1823; and the number of workmen,
owing to the forwardness of the work, was gradually
reduced towards the close of this year. The new
act, which received the royal assent on the 7th of
July, 1823, besides extending the time for completing the bridge to July 1825, invested the commissioners with additional powers; and the Lords of the
Treasury were authorized to issue £108,498 for
completing the bridge, and for payment of the sum
awarded by a jury for the purchase of Bangor ferry,
viz. £26,394. The fixing of the main chains was
commenced on October 24th; and, to prevent the
roadway sinking in the middle below a horizontal
line, by their expansion, it was determined that the
roadway and side railing should have a rise of two
feet towards the middle: in order, also, that the deflection of the main chains might not be lessened to
the same extent, it was resolved to increase the
height of the pyramids, so as to make their elevation
fifty-two feet above the level of the road under the
archways. The last chain was raised on the 9th of
July, and the whole having been connected by the
end of August, the suspension of the roadway bearers was commenced, and a passable road was formed
by the 24th of September, on which day many of
the gentry and other inhabitants of the neighbourhood crossed the bridge. The roadway is constructed of deal planks, resting upon sleeping rods,
and consists of two carriage-ways, each twelve feet
in breadth, with a foot-way, four feet wide, secured
by iron railings, running the whole length between
them: these roads are formed of two tiers of planks,
three inches thick, lying longitudinally, with a
third and upper tier placed transversely, and secured at each end by guards of oak, to prevent the
carriage-wheels injuring the vertical rods. The
bridge was opened on January 30th, 1826; and, as
the expense of the work had been defrayed by a
loan from the public, the first vehicle allowed to cross
it was the London and Holyhead mail, on its way
down, about half-past one in the morning. Very
soon after its completion the bridge sustained considerable damage from a violent tempest, owing
to the motion of the main chains; to remedy which,
four sets of transverse braces were introduced between each series of chains, to prevent them from
coming closer together. Between each two lines of
braces, consisting of cast-iron tubes, is a diagonal
lacing of wrought-iron, which, with the tubes and
bolts, forms a stiff frame between each series of
chains. The reparation of the bridge was considerably retarded by gales during the spring; but the
additional securities suggested in consequence of the
late storms were carried into effect in the early part
of the summer, and have served the intended purpose; this magnificent work having braved, uninjured, the storms of succeeding years.
Another work of extraordinary engineering skill,
in the same neighbourhood, and also spanning the
Menai Straits, is the Britannia tubular bridge,
forming part of the line of the Chester and Holyhead
railway. This gigantic piece of mechanism takes
its name from a rock in the middle of the straits,
called the Britannia rock, upon which the central
pier of the bridge is raised. On each side of the
central pier is a space of four hundred and sixty
feet; then rise two other piers, near the water's
edge, one at each side of the straits; and beyond
these side piers, at a distance of two hundred and
fifty feet, are two walls of enormous bulk. The
wall on the Carnarvonshire shore is of inconsiderable
length, the adjacent land being high and bold, and
the railway passing along its surface to the immediate vicinity of the bridge: the wall on the Anglesey shore, however, forms the commencement of a
vast embankment, on which the railway is raised to
the bridge level. The two water-spaces of four
hundred and sixty feet each, and the two other
spaces of two hundred and fifty feet each, are occupied by eight iron tubes, placed in two parallel lines.
These tubes are thirty feet high, outside measure,
and fourteen feet wide; the weight of each of the
four long ones is about one thousand seven hundred
tons, and that of each of the four short ones about
eight hundred tons, making a total of at least ten
thousand tons of iron, exclusively of the iron used in
other parts of the bridge. The masonry, it is believed, cost about £200,000, containing a million
and a half cubic feet of stone. The three piers are
composed of blocks of stone seven and eight feet
long; they rise to about two hundred and thirty feet
above low-water mark, and their summit is seventy
feet higher than the upper surface of the tubes. As ornaments to the walls on the shore are four lions, two
at each end of the bridge: these contain about eight
thousand cubic feet of stone, and though in a couching posture, their height is twelve feet; the greatest
breadth across the body is nine feet, the length
twenty-five feet. In the whole, including the piers
and the landward buildings, the length of this splendid bridge is one-third of a mile. The engineer to
the railway company is Robert Stephenson, Esq.,
through whose determined perseverance the tubular
principle was adopted here and at Conway. In the
article on the latter town the invention, and method
of construction, of the tube-bridges, are described.
The course of the railway in the vicinity of Bangor is as follows. Leaving the Aber station, which
is about five miles east of the city, it is carried over
the Ogwen river-valley by two extensive viaducts,
thirty-five feet high, consisting of twenty-four arches,
and embracing a fine view of Penrhyn Castle, with
its park, on the right, and of the Snowdonian mountains on the left. At the west end of what is termed
the Ogwen cutting, commences a tunnel of 440 yards,
cut through the Llandegai hills; after which, the
Cegin river and valley are crossed by a viaduct 200
yards long, elevated sixty-two feet above the level of
the stream, and supported on nine arches: to the
right is Port-Penrhyn, in the parish of Llandegai.
The line again enters into the bowels of the earth
through the Bangor tunnel, formed in the rock, at a
depth of from 160 to 200 yards, on the south side of
the city: this was one of the most laborious works in
the whole line, extending 920 yards in length, through
slaty rock, and greenstone. Near its extremity is
the Bangor station, one of the largest stations on the
line, 137 feet long, of beautiful design and admirable proportions, and, like all the other stations, well
adapted to the purposes of traffic, and the passengers'
convenience: the length of the platform is 260 feet.
This station occupies nearly all the space between
the Bangor and Belmont tunnels; it stands on an
elevation, and commands a good prospect of the city,
of the ocean, and Puffin Island. The Belmont tunnel, under what are called the Carnarvon mountains,
is 726 yards long, has four shafts, and passes through
rock of the same description as that at Bangor. The
entrance to each tunnel is in the massive Egyptian
style; the roof of each remains in the natural state,
unlike the roof of the Llandegai tunnel, which is
arched with brick-work. The line soon after reaches
the Menai tube-bridge, and passes into Anglesey.
A general account of the railway is given under the
head of Holyhead. In 1845 an act was passed for
the construction of a railway to be called the North
Wales Railway, from Bangor, through Carnarvon, to
Porth-Dinllaen; but the design has been altogether
abandoned.
The see comprises the whole of the Isle of Anglesey; the whole of the county of Carnarvon, with
the exception only of three or four parishes in the
hundred of Creuddyn; the greater part of the county
of Merioneth; and two deaneries in the county of
Montgomery. It is divided into the two archdeaconries of Merioneth, and Bangor and Anglesey;
the latter until recently comprised two archdeaconries, which were annexed to the see in the 1st
of James II. By the act 6th and 7th William IV.,
c. 77, it was proposed to unite the diocese to that
of St. Asaph, on the next avoidance of either; but
the union being deemed injurious to the interests
of the Church in the principality, the design has
been abandoned. The ecclesiastical establishment
consists of a bishop, dean,
chancellor, treasurer, the
two archdeacons, a prebendary or canon, three
other canons, two vicars
choral, an organist, lay
clerks, choristers, and
other officers. The chapter is composed of the dean, chancellor, treasurer,
archdeacons, and four canons.

ARMS OF THE BISHOPRIC.
The CATHEDRAL CHURCH, dedicated to St. Daniel,
and, after repeated demolitions, principally rebuilt
and restored by the liberality of Bishops Dean and
Skeffington, is a cruciform and embattled structure,
chiefly in the later style of English architecture,
displaying portions in the early and decorated
English styles, with a low massive embattled tower
at the west end. Though not remarkable for any
richness of embellishment, it has a pleasing symmetry in its proportions, and an appropriate simplicity of character, which are much improved by its
situation in a spacious open area, on one side of which
is a fine avenue of trees, forming in summer a pleasant
promenade. The Interior is extremely well lighted
by ranges of six windows, in the later English style;
in each of the aisles of the nave and transepts, and
at the extremities of the latter, as well as at the east
end of the choir, are larger windows of elegant
design and lofty dimensions. The nave is one hundred and forty-one feet in length, sixty feet wide,
including the aisles, and thirty feet high; the roof is
supported by ranges of six obtusely pointed arches,
resting on octagonal fluted columns, on square
plinths, and ornamented with annular capitals, which
separate it from the aisles. Between the eastern
extremity of the nave and the choir, and also forming
entrances into the transepts, is an area, whose roof,
of loftier elevation, is supported by four obtusely
pointed arches, resting upon corbel heads, originally
intended to sustain a central tower. The choir,
which is a well-proportioned Latin cross, is of the
same height as the nave, and sixty-three feet in length
to the altar-screen, above which rises to the roof the
large east window, twenty-seven feet high, and thirteen feet and a half in width: this window was put
up about sixty years since. The transepts are
ninety-six feet in length, from north to south, and
thirty-two feet and a half in width, and are partly in
the decorated and partly in the later style of English
architecture. The present internal arrangement,
which is rendered necessary from the want of a parochial church, differs materially from that of cathedrals in general. The organ-screen is placed across
the nave, nearly in the centre, dividing it into two
portions, of which the eastern is connected with the
choir, and contains the bishop's throne and family
pew, and the prebendal stalls, of highly enriched
tabernacle-work. The western portion, with the
choir and transepts, is regularly pewed and fitted up.
This western portion of the nave is appropriated to
the performance of morning and evening service,
every Sunday, in the Welsh language, according to
the usual ceremonies of the Church; in addition to
which are two full cathedral services in the choir,
performed in the English language. The whole
length of the cathedral is 214 feet, and its breadth
along the transepts ninety-six feet; the tower is
sixty feet high, and, but for the premature death of
Bishop Skeffington, would have been raised to the
height of 120 feet.
There are few monuments of importance, either
for their antiquity or for their architectural character. The tomb of the renowned Grufydd ab Cynan,
King of North Wales, on the left side of the altar,
was formerly surmounted by a shrine, which was
destroyed during the parliamentary war; and under
an arch at the south end of the transept is the
effigy, in stone, of his successor, Owain Gwynedd,
recumbent on a sarcophagus ornamented with a cross
fleury. Several of the bishops have been interred
in the cathedral, but there is nothing worthy of
notice in the small monuments that have been raised
to their memory. A gravestone marks the place of
interment of William Wynne, M.A., author of a
History of Wales, chiefly compiled from the chronicles
of Caradoc of Llancarvan.
The north aisle of the choir has been separated
from the remainder, to serve the purposes of a chapter-house, consistorial court, and library. In the last
is preserved a manuscript of Bishop Anian's, forming
a volume of moderate size, entitled Liber Pontificalis
Dñi Anniani Bangor Episcopi, containing a missal,
which, in addition to the rubric, includes thirty-two
offices and numerous anthems set to music for the
use of the cathedral of Bangor and other churches.
This volume appears to have been drawn up by the
bishop about the year 1291, and to have formed one
of those provincial diversities in the mode of performing the service of the Church, that were prohibited by the statute of Uniformity, in the preamble
of which it is expressly named. During the commotions in the time of Owain Glyndwr, the volume
was lost, but it was restored to the church by Bishop
Ednam, in 1485. It was again carried away, during
the occupation of the cathedral by the parliamentary
troops, in the reign of Charles I., but was afterwards
recovered by Bishop Humphreys.
The Episcopal Palace, in which Mr. Pennant, in
1770, observes that "the prelate is indifferently
lodged," was, after its previous demolitions, almost
entirely rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington, in the early
part of the sixteenth century; it was much improved
by Bishop Warren, and other alterations and additions were made by his successor, Dr. Majendie.
The Deanery, a handsome building to the north-west
of the cathedral, and adjoining the cemetery, was
erected late in the seventeenth century.
The parish of Bangor, of which the city forms
but a small portion, comprises 6510 acres. It was
united with that of Pentîr previously to the year
1402, when the latter was wrested from it by the
abbot of Valle Crucis, who, however, in 1444 was
compelled to restore it, after which they continued
united till the Reformation. In an action tried at
Shrewsbury, in 1657, they were again re-united, and
they have ever since been reputed to form one
parish, of which Pentîr is considered only a township, and to which its church is now deemed a chapel
of ease. The tithes of the whole are equally divided
between the vicars choral, who perform the parochial
duty, previously to which arrangement, the vicars
were accustomed to begin the service in the choir,
and after proceeding to the first lesson for the day, in
the English language, to retire to the nave and finish
the service in the Welsh language. The living is thus
a consolidated comportionate vicarage, not in charge,
in the patronage of the Bishop: the tithes have
been commuted for a rent-charge of £800 per
annum. Of the ancient parochial church, founded by
Edgar, and dedicated to St. Mary, not a single
fragment is remaining. The site of an old chapel
was sold, some years since, and the money applied to
the redemption of the land-tax. A house has been
built near the cathedral, on another plot of ground,
as a vicarage-house, in which one of the vicars resides. There are places of worship for Baptists,
Independents, Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists,
and Roman Catholics.
The following is a correct account of the services
performed every Sunday in the cathedral church, and
the chapel of ease at Pentîr: morning parochial service in the Welsh language, together with a sermon,
at a quarter past nine o'clock, within the nave of the
cathedral; and morning choral service in the English
language, with a sermon, at half past eleven, within
the choir: evening parochial service in the Welsh
language, with a sermon, at the chapel of ease, at
two o'clock: evening choral service in the English
language, with a sermon, at a quarter past four, in
the choir; and evening parochial service in the
Welsh language, at six o'clock, in the nave. Thus
there are five services and five sermons upon each
Sunday, commencing at a quarter past nine o'clock
in the morning, and carried on without intermission
until half past seven in the evening; three of the
services and sermons being in the Welsh, and two
in the English language. The sacrament of baptism
is administered every Sunday, and whenever occasion
requires. The communion is celebrated every month,
both in the English and Welsh languages, in the
cathedral; and four times a year at the chapel of
ease: it is also celebrated upon all the great festivals,
together with the performance of divine service and
the preaching of sermons. The weekday services
are as follows: English parochial service on all Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year, and every
day in passion-week; and choral service on all
saints' days, vigils, and state holidays: divine service also, in the Welsh language, on some principal
festivals, and on the Wednesdays and Fridays in
Lent. The vicars choral and parochial, senior and
junior, assisted by a curate, perform both the
English and Welsh services, aided in the former by
the bishop and dean, and occasionally by the other
members of the chapter.
The Free grammar school was founded in 1557,
by Geoffrey Glynn, LL.D., advocate of the court of
Arches, and brother to Dr. William Glynn, Bishop
of Bangor. He bequeathed the friary house, with
its appurtenances, and all his lands in North Wales
and elsewhere, in trust to the Bishops of Bangor and
Rochester, and their successors, for its foundation
and endowment; also £400 in money, to be invested in the purchase of land, of the yearly value of
£20, to be divided equally among ten poor scholars
on the foundation. The trustees dying before the
intentions of the testator could be carried into effect,
the completion of the design devolved upon Sir
William Petre and others, who, with the concurrence
of the bishop, determined upon the statutes and regulations for its government. These were drawn up by
Dr. Alexander Nowell, Dean of St. Paul's, and the
school was established by letters patent in the third
year of the reign of Elizabeth. The revenue arising
from the endowment is £360; there are at present
about fifty day pupils, and the master has the privilege of taking boarders. Two scholarships were
founded in Jesus' College, Oxford, by Bishop Rowlands, in 1609, to which, after his own kindred, the
scholars of Bangor, Beaumaris, and Bottwnog have
the preference. The ancient friary was formerly
appropriated to the use of this establishment, but
early in the present century it was taken down,
and a brick building erected upon its site, comprising
a good house for the head master, valued, with twenty
acres of land adjoining it, at £130 per annum, a
house for the usher, valued with land at £45, and a
commodious schoolroom, to which a play-ground is
attached. The present salary of the master is £100,
and of the usher £50, exclusive of their houses and
lands. A scheme was submitted to the court of
Chancery in 1848, having for its object an augmentation of the value of the ten Glynn scholarships, so
that the scholars might be boarded, and educated in
all the branches of learning taught at the school, at
a small annual cost only to the parents.
Bishop Rowlands also bequeathed an estate for
the endowment of an almshouse, which he had
founded during his lifetime, for six single men, one
from each of the parishes of Bangor, Aberdaron,
Meylltyrn, Penmynedd, Llangrystyolys, and Amlwch.
To each of them were formerly allowed two shillings
per week, and six yards of frieze annually for
clothing. The almshouses have been rebuilt, upon
an enlarged scale, on the south side of the cathedral
cemetery, and now afford two rooms to each of the
inmates, who, from the increased value of the land,
have each nine shillings per week, with a suit of
clothes annually, a proper supply of bedding, linen,
and coal, and a matron to attend on them, who, in addition to a residence and a supply of coal and bedding,
is allowed five shillings per week. The total income
of the charity, including the dividends on £480. 19.
three per cent consols., &c., is £215. 13. per annum.
In addition to these gifts, the same benefactor bequeathed £100 for the repair of the cathedral; and
Dean Jones, in 1719, gave £100 for purchasing an
altar-piece, the whole of his books to the chapter
library, and £100 towards the establishment of a permanent parochial school for poor children.
A National school for boys and girls was erected
in 1822, by subscription, aided by a grant of £90
from the society in London. At Vaenol, in the
parish, is another National school, built in 1816, also
by subscription, aided by a grant of £30 from the
society; a third has been erected at the village of
Pentîr, near the chapel, and the town contains an
infants' school in connexion with the Established
Church. In the town is also a school appertaining to
the Independents, supported chiefly by an endowment from the late Dr. Williams, though partly consisting of pay-scholars; and the town and parish contain as many as seventeen Sunday schools, in all of
which the instruction is gratuitous. There are
several clothing-clubs; and various benefactions,
arising from lands, tenements, and money, and producing in the whole about £20 per annum, are distributed periodically in wine to the sick poor, in
bread to paupers, &c. At a short distance from the
town, on the London road, stood the Carnarvonshire
and Anglesey Loyal Dispensary, instituted in 1809,
in commemoration of the fiftieth anniversary of the accession of George III. to the throne, as a testimony of
loyalty and affection to their sovereign, by a party of
gentlemen, who had determined to celebrate that day
by the establishment of some permanent charity, and
finally resolved upon building a dispensary for gratuitously supplying the poor with medical and surgical
assistance. This edifice was removed in 1845, and
a much more commodious, substantial, and elegant
building, affording the additional advantages and
usefulness of an infirmary, has been erected on a
salubrious site contiguous to the Menai-Bridge road.
The expense of the establishment is defrayed by
subscription among the gentry resident in the neighbourhood. The poor-law union of Bangor and
Beaumaris was formed May 30th, 1837, and comprises twenty-one parishes and townships in Anglesey
and Carnarvonshire; namely, Aber, Bangor, Beaumaris, Llanddaniel-Vab, Llanddona, Llandegai, Llandegvan, Llandysillio, Llanedwen, Llanfinnan, Llangoed, Llaniestyn, Llanllêchid, Llansadwrn, Llanvaes, Llanvair-Pwllgwyngyll, Llanvair-Vechan,
Llanvihangel-Din-Sylwy, Llanvihangel-Ysceiviog,
Penmon, and Penmynedd. It is under the superintendence of thirty guardians, and contains a population of 25,902, of whom 16,503 are in the parishes of
Aber, Bangor, Llandegai, Llanllêchid, and LlanvairVechan, all in the county of Carnarvon.
A house of friars preachers was founded here prior
to the year 1276, which was probably enlarged or
rebuilt about the year 1299, by Tudor ab Gronow,
Lord of Penmynedd and Trecastle, who, from that
circumstance, has been commonly regarded as its
founder, and who was interred in the chapel of the
establishment, in the year 1311. In the seventh of
Edward VI., the site was granted to Thomas Brown
and William Breton; and it subsequently became the
property of Dr. Geoffrey Glynn, who bequeathed it,
with other possessions, as above related, for the endowment of the free grammar school. Of the castle
erected near the city, by the Earl of Chester, there
are still some slight vestiges. A few traces may be
discerned of its walls, which appear to have extended
120 yards on the south-east, and about sixty-six
yards on the south-west, terminating in a precipice;
on the north-east they appear to have extended for
more than forty yards, and on the north-west the
natural strength of its situation rendered any other
defence of the castle unnecessary.
Bangor-Iscoed
BANGOR-ISCOED, a parish, in the union of
Wrexham, comprising the townships of Eyton,
Pickhill, Ryton, and Sesswick, in the hundred of
Bromfield, county of Denbigh, and the township
of Bangor, in the hundred of Maelor, county of
Flint, North Wales; the whole containing 1257
inhabitants, of whom 596 are in the township of
Bangor, 5 miles (S. E.) from Wrexham, on the road
to Whitchurch. This place, which has received the
adjunct of Iscoed to distinguish it from the city of
Bangor in Carnarvonshire, was the station Branchorium of Richard of Cirencester, and is generally
thought to have been the Bovium, or Bonium, of Antonine. It was the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, which having also been intended as
a school for religious instruction, became a great
seminary for learning. From this institution, the
foundation of which is ascribed by some to Lucius,
King of Britain, under whose auspices Christianity
is said to have been firmly established in this country,
the place obtained its British name Ban-Gôr, which
was changed by the Saxons into Banchornabyrig, a
name descriptive of its importance as a privileged
town. Pelagius, the noted arch-heretic, who is affirmed to have been a native of Britain, was educated at this monastery, of which he became abbot,
about the commencement of the fifth century. The
Pelagian heresy was principally eradicated by St.
Germanus, who is said to have introduced considerable improvement into the institution.
Augustine, having been sent by Gregory the
Great to re-establish Christianity in England by
converting the Saxons, endeavoured to extend the
power of the Church of Rome by usurping an authority over the British prelates. But the latter
resisting, a great council of the clergy was convened,
at which seven bishops and many learned men from
the monastery of Bangor were present: the British
deputies continued firm in their refusal to submit to
St. Augustine, or aid him in his intended conversion
of the Saxons; in consequence of which the mortified
missionary is said to have denounced the judgment
of God against them, predicting that, as they would
not accept peace with their Christian brethren, they
would soon have war with their pagan enemies, and
that they would find death by the swords of those to
whom they had refused to preach the word of life.
This threat, if ever uttered, was accomplished a few
years afterwards, in the battle of Chester, by the
slaughter which actually took place of 1150, out of
1200, monks who had gone forth to pray for the
success of their countrymen, the Welsh, against the
Northumbrian Saxons, by whom, under Ethelfrid,
that ancient city had been attacked. The Saxons,
having defeated their opponents, and taken possession
of Chester, advanced to Bangor, where they entirely
destroyed the monastery, and committed its valuable
library to the flames. They then intended to penetrate into Wales, but their passage over the Dee at
this place was disputed by Brochwel Yscithrog,
Prince of Powys, who successfully resisted all their
attacks, until relieved by Cadvan, King of North
Wales; Meredydd, King of South Wales; and
Bledrus, sovereign of Cornwall. The confederate
princes called to their aid the services of Dynawd,
or Dúnothus, abbot of Bangor, and one of the fifty
monks that had escaped the general massacre of his
brethren, who delivered an oration to the army, which
he concluded by ordering the soldiers to kiss the
ground, before the action commenced, in commemoration of the communion of the body of Christ, and
to take up water in their hands out of the river Dee,
and drink it, in remembrance of his sacred blood.
This act of devotion infused a confident courage
among the Welsh, already ardent for revenge for the
calamities they had recently endured; and they encountered the invaders with such bravery as entirely
to defeat them, with the loss of above 10,000 men,
compelling Ethelfrid, with the remainder of his army,
to retreat into his own country.
From this disastrous infliction the monastery of
Bangor never recovered: the surviving monks were
dispersed throughout the country, some of them
settling in North Wales, and others probably serving
as a supply to the ministry of the Church in South
Wales, and in Armorica. At one period the entire
establishment here is said to have consisted of two
thousand four hundred brethren, of whom one hundred officiated by turns for one hour, thus performing
divine service both day and night, whilst many of
the others laboured for the benefit of the community.
The ruins of the vast pile of buildings that composed
the monastery, are described by William of Malmesbury, a short time after the Norman conquest, as
consisting of numerous half-demolished churches and
mutilated remains. At present the only vestiges that
can be traced, are parts of the foundations, extending
for a considerable distance along the eastern bank of
the river Dee, which flows between the sites of two
of the ancient gates, of which they still retain the
names; the one being called "Porth Kleis," one
mile southward of the church, on the road to Overton; and the other "Porth Wgan," one mile and a
quarter west-north-westward from it, on the road to
Wrexham.
The village is pleasantly situated on the eastern
bank of the Dee, which is navigable to this place,
and is here crossed by a handsome bridge of five
arches, connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint.
According to a manuscript preserved in the Wynnstay library, Bangor was the scene of some events
connected with the parliamentary war. In February,
1644, "the bridge was betrayed to Colonel Mitton,
who, coming over Dee, took prisoners Sir Gerard
Eaton, Sir Robert Eaton, with others:" about the
same time, "Bangor began to be fortified for the
king;" and in the following December, "the king's
soldiers burnt Bangor-upon-Dee and other great
houses that if fortified might annoy the garrisons of
Salop and Chester." The parish contains about eight
thousand acres, of which about five thousand are
composed of a stiff clay, the remainder being meadow
land, generally of a sandy loam: the ground is chiefly
flat, and about two thousand acres are subject to
inundation from the Dee. The scenery in many
places is beautiful and richly picturesque, the noble
sweeps of the river being frequently overshadowed
by thick hanging woods, which fringe its elevated
banks.
The living is a rectory, with the perpetual curacy
of Overton annexed, rated in the king's books at
£39. 6. 8.; present net income, £1200; patron,
the Marquess of Westminster. A rent-charge of
£701. 13. has been awarded in lieu of the tithes of
Bangor, and there is a glebe of 2½ acres, valued at
£3. 15. per annum; with a glebe-house. The church,
dedicated to St. Dynawd, abbot of the monastery
when Augustine landed in England, and who was
canonized after his death, appears to have been
built at various periods, though the greater part of
it is of modern erection. The communion-table, of
white marble, and the floor within the rails, of black
and white marble, were the gift of Mr. Lloyd; and
the altar-piece and tablets, of mahogany with gilt
mouldings, were presented by Mr. Peter Lloyd, in
1775: the font, which is very ancient, is ornamented
with sculptured heads and shields bearing the Cross
of Calvary, surmounted by the Welsh plume. The
arms of the several rectors of the parish, from the
year 1662 to the present time, with the dates of their
respective induction, are arranged in the hall of the
rectory. The Roman road to the station Banchorium
passed through the village, a little to the south of
the church; and, in digging graves in the churchyard, Roman pavements are occasionally found.
The endowed school in the township of Bangor,
in which about 30 children are taught free, was
founded in 1728, by Lady Dorothy Jeffreys, widow
of Chief Justice Jeffreys, who gave £500 to be laid
out in the purchase of lands for teaching and apprenticing poor children: the income at present is £45. 15.
per annum. There is a schoolroom for the boys,
and the girls assemble in a cottage. The master
and mistress receive a salary of £30 from the endowment, and are allowed to take pay-scholars; they
have also the rent of two cottages belonging to the
trust, and a house rent-free from the rector of the
parish. The appointment is vested in Sir Philip de
Malpas Grey Egerton, Bart., of Oulton Park, the
sole trustee. All the townships participate in the
benefit of this school, as well as in that of placing
out poor boys as apprentices from the residue of the
income of the charity; the premium is eight guineas,
and about three boys are apprenticed every two
years. There is also a school supported by subscription, attended by boys and girls, and connected,
like the preceding, with the Established Church; it
was founded in 1836, and in 1846 an infants' school
was commenced, which is conducted in a schoolroom
under the same roof. The subscriptions in support
of the boys' and girls' school amount to £55 per
annum, and those for the infants' school to £24.
There are several charitable donations and bequests, most of which are participated in by the
other townships. Of these the principal are, a tenement in Holt parish, left by E. Price, jun., in 1681,
and consisting of 5½ acres and three cottages, yielding a rent of £14 per annum; a sum of money given
by Sir Gerard Eyton in 1786, producing 20s. per
annum, paid by the Leather-sellers Company, of
London; a gift of £25 by Kenric Eyton in 1769,
vested in the Whitchurch and Wrexham turnpike
trust, paying an interest of 25s.; another of £40 by
Thomas Tunna in 1748, with which, and other
funds, a plot of ground was purchased in Holt parish,
consisting of three cottages and a large garden, let
at £77 per annum; and a tenement called the Graig,
comprising a house, garden, orchard, and 3¾ acres of
land, and £200 in money, by Mr. Peter Lloyd,
yielding in the whole £22 per annum. The proceeds of these gifts are periodically distributed in
bread and money. The produce of other charities,
namely £60 by Thomas Lloyd, £50 each by the
Rev. Hugh Morris, and Edward Price, sen., £26 by
Sarah Davis for education, and £10 by the Rev.
John Lloyd, has been lost; or most of it, as is supposed, applied to provide bells for the church.
Bannel
BANNEL, a township, in the parish of Hawarden, union of Great Boughton, hundred of Mold,
county of Flint, North Wales; containing 138
inhabitants.
Bardsey Isle
BARDSEY ISLE, a small extra-parochial
island in St. George's Channel, near Cardigan bay,
locally in the parish of Aberdaron, in the hundred
of Dinllaen, union of Pwllheli, county of Carnarvon, North Wales; lying off the promontory
of Lleyn, from which it is separated by Bardsey
Race, three miles in breadth; and containing 90
inhabitants. This island, from the remotest known
period of antiquity, seems to have been the resort of
devotees, who, retiring from the cares of the world,
sought an asylum here, in which they passed the
remainder of their lives and were buried. St. Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerlleon, resigning his see,
retired to this solitary spot, where, dying about the
year 522, he was interred; but his remains were
removed in the twelfth century to Llandaf. Prior
to the time of St. Dubricius, this may have been a
retreat of the Culdees, the first religious recluses in
Britain, for whose secret worship of the Almighty
its remote situation was peculiarly auspicious. Before
his death, perhaps before his arrival, a monastery was
founded; it was afterwards dedicated to St. Mary,
and became very eminent for its sanctity. In the
reign of Edward II., according to the Sebright
manuscripts, a petition was presented to that monarch
by the abbot, complaining of exaction on the part of
the sheriff of Carnarvon, which procured redress. The
monastery continued to flourish till the Dissolution,
when its revenues amounted to £58. 6. 2. There
are only some small portions of the abbey remaining:
the site was granted by Edward VI. to Sir Thomas
Seymour, and afterwards to the Earl of Warwick.
The island, now the property of Lord Newborough,
is two miles and a half in length, and one and a
half in breadth. From the violence of the current
which runs through the sound, it obtained the British
name Ynys Enlli, or "the island in the current;"
and the Saxons, from its being a favourite retreat of
the bards, named it Bardsey, or "the island of the
bards." The inhabitants are partly occupied in agriculture, and partly in fishing; the soil is fertile, and
large quantities of lobsters and oysters are sent to
Liverpool in sailing-vessels every week. The scenery is grand, the sea coming in with the full Atlantic
swell. The shores and sand-banks in this part of St.
George's Channel render the navigation exceedingly
dangerous, and numerous vessels have been lost: to
prevent the recurrence of similar disasters, a lighthouse, with a flashing light, was erected on the island
in 1821, and lighted for the first time on the 24th of
December in that year. The tower is a substantial
and handsome square structure, seventy-four feet
high, surmounted by a lantern ten feet high; and,
being built on an elevation sixty-two feet above the
level of the sea, the light is 146 feet above highwater mark at spring tides. The erection of this
lighthouse has been attended with the utmost benefit
to the vessels connected with the port of Liverpool.
Bareland
BARELAND, with Burva, a township, in the
parish of Old Radnor, union of Kington, liberties
of the borough of New Radnor, county of Radnor,
South Wales, 3 miles (S. W.) from Presteign; containing, with the township of Evenjob and Newcastle,
345 inhabitants. It is situated on the border of
Herefordshire; and is passed on the west, at the distance of about half a mile, by that remarkable work
of the Saxons, Offa's Dyke. It is assessed jointly
with the township of Evenjob for the support of its
poor.
Barmouth (Aber-Maw)
BARMOUTH (ABER-MAW), a sea-port and
market-town, in the parish of Llanaber, union of
Dôlgelley, hundred of Ardudwy, county of Merioneth, North Wales, 10½ miles (W. by S.) from
Dôlgelley, and 222 (W. N. W.) from London; containing 930 inhabitants. The present name of this
place is an Anglicism of the original name AberMaw, denoting its situation at the mouth of the river
Maw or Mawddach; and was adopted in 1768, at a
meeting of the masters of vessels belonging to the
port, when, in consideration of the increase of the
shipping, it was deemed expedient to have an English
name inscribed upon the sterns of the vessels. The
town is beautifully situated on the northern side of
the river, at the point where it pours its waters into
Cardigan bay; the estuary of the Maw, which forms
the port, is a mile in breadth at high water. The
beach is a fine smooth sand, extending from the harbour northward to Traeth Artro, where the small river
Artro falls into the sea; and is peculiarly adapted to
the purpose of sea-bathing, for which the water of
the bay is still more efficacious than that on other
parts of the coast, owing to the frequent agitation of
the tides, which in St. George's Channel are violent,
and dash furiously on the rocks that line this part of
the coast. The air is rendered mild and salubrious by
the situation of the town at the base and on the acclivities of high hills, which shelter it from the north and
north-east winds. The view from the beach is strikingly magnificent; the hills on the opposite shores of
Carnarvonshire are seen in the distance towards the
west, and towards the north the view of the sea is
bounded by lofty mountains, apparently forming
majestic ramparts for the defence of the coast, and
beyond which, in clear weather, may be seen the peak
of Snowdon, towering above the rest. The appearance of the town, as viewed from the sea, is peculiarly
romantic: the houses, rising in successive tiers from
the base nearly to the summit, are scattered along the
brow of the hill, which is a barren rock, and assume
a character singularly picturesque.
On the banks of the river is found a profusion of
scurvy grass, the efficacy of which, in conjunction
with the benefit of sea-bathing, is supposed to have
originally made Barmouth a place of resort for invalids; and the salubrity of the air, the fineness of the
beach, the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and
the varied and interesting excursions which the environs afford, have contributed to render it a place of
fashionable resort during the summer months, and to
raise it to an eminent rank among the watering-places
on the Welsh coast. There is an excellent hotel, provided with every accommodation, to which a capacious
boarding-house is attached; and numerous respectable
lodging-houses have been erected. Warm and cold
sea-water baths have been built by the proprietor
of the hotel, through whose exertions many improvements have been made in the town: opposite to
the hotel is a billiard-room, erected by the same gentleman; and assemblies are held at the hotel during
the season.
Among the excursions in the neighbourhood are,
a pleasing ride to Harlech Castle, about ten miles
north of the town, a great part of which is over the
fine sands that stretch along the coast; and the ride
from Barmouth to Dôlgelley, about the same distance
towards the east, which comprehends a finer range of
varied scenery, and of interesting and magnificent
objects, than can be found within the same distance,
in this or perhaps in any other country. The road to
Dôlgelley is conducted along the slope of a vast
mountain, which impends over it for about two miles;
and on the opposite side is skirted by the river, which
forms a small arm of the sea, and at high water
reflects the masses of barren rock that rise from its
steep banks, occasionally interspersed with hanging
woods, and varied with spots of luxuriant verdure.
Beyond this point, the road winds beautifully through
the lower hills, at a little distance from the river,
which is seen through the different openings, partly
concealed by intervening eminences, and sometimes
expanding into a broad lake, from the margin of
which, on either side, rise lofty and abrupt promontories, some of them rugged and barren, others half
clothed with purple heath, and others again richly
wooded. The banks of the river are occasionally
enlivened by a few scattered rural dwellings, erected
on the acclivities, at a great height above its channel;
and on the opposite side, several rivulets, descending
from the mountain with impetuosity, and after rains
swelled into torrents, discharge themselves into the
river. In the back ground, towering above the
mountains which bound the view, is seen the lofty
Cader Idris, on the other side of Dôlgelley. Throughout the whole of this ride the most pleasing and the
most sublime features of landscape are strikingly
grouped, and the most interesting varieties are beautifully combined. The waterfalls in the neighbourhood of Dôlgelley, and the Druidical remains on the
road to Harlech, are objects of great attraction, and
are deservedly admired.
Prior to the war with France, the inhabitants carried
on a commercial intercourse with Ireland, Spain, and
Italy. The trade is now principally coastwise, and
consists chiefly in the exportation of timber, poles for
collieries, bark, copper and lead ore, black-jack,
manganese, turnery, webs, and slates; and in the
importation of corn, flour and meal, coal, limestone,
American and Baltic timber, hides, and grocery.
The harbour is formed by the mouth of the river
Maw being partially closed by a small island, called
Ynys-y-Brawd, or the Friar's Island, and a gravel
beach to the south: the island defends it from the
billows of the ocean, and anciently afforded pasturage
for sheep and cattle, but owing to the shifting of the
sands, a great part is now inundated. The entrance
is rendered somewhat difficult and dangerous, in consequence of these sands, the principal of which are
the banks called the North and South Bars; vessels
of considerable burthen can only enter and depart at
spring tides. In the year 1802 the harbour was
greatly improved by the erection of a small pier, or
embankment of stone, under the authority of an act
of parliament, and at a total expense of £1660; the
depth of water was thus increased, and the loading
and unloading of vessels considerably facilitated. At
the same time a new quay was constructed. A buoy
has been laid down upon each of the bars, and a
beacon has been erected near the pier; so that the
natural obstacles opposed to the growth of the port
have been in a great measure removed. The river
Maw, over which is a ferry at this place, is navigable
for boats of under twenty tons' burthen to within two
miles of Dôlgelley. The sea has made considerable
encroachment on this part of the coast: to the north
of the town was formerly a verdant plain, about half
a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, now entirely covered by the waters, and over which passed
the line of road that has since been cut along the
rocky elevations to the right. Ship-building and the
tanning of leather are carried on, the latter to a considerable extent. A great quantity of peat is obtained
in a neighbouring turbary, through which a canal has
been cut, walled on each side with stone, by means
of which and the river Maw this species of fuel is
conveyed in vessels either to Barmouth or Dôlgelley.
Here are two weekly markets, on Tuesday and Friday;
and fairs are held on Shrove-Monday, Whit-Monday,
October 7th, and November 21st.
In 1830, through the instrumentality of the Rev.
Frederick Ricketts, a chapel of ease was erected, at
an expense of £2000. It is a neat cruciform structure, in the later style of English architecture, containing 470 sittings, one-third of which are free, in
consideration of a grant of £300 from the Incorporated Society for building, enlarging, and repairing
churches and chapels. Within its walls a Sunday
school is kept. There are places of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists,
to which are also attached Sunday schools. In 1841,
two schoolrooms were erected by means of a grant
from the National Society, and large subscriptions
from the resident clergy and gentry: the master and
mistress are supported by subscriptions, by payments
from the scholars, and an endowment of £7. 7s. per
annum; they have also a house each, and the rent of
a similar house each. In 1846 a British school for
boys and girls was established, which is held in the
Calvinistic Methodist meeting-house, and supported
partly by subscription, but principally by fees. A
branch establishment belonging to the Merchants'
Hospital in London, was established in 1828.