Montgomery
MONTGOMERY, a borough, market-town,
and parish, in the incorporation of Forden, Lower
division of the hundred of
Montgomery, county of
Montgomery, in North
Wales, 7½ miles (S.) from
Welshpool, about 172 miles
(W. N. W.) from London,
through Shrewsbury, and
169 by way of Ludlow;
containing 1208 inhabitants, of whom 850 are in the
town. The ancient British name of this place, Trê
Valdwyn, or "Baldwyn's town," was derived from
the erection of a castle and the consequent establishment of a town here by a Norman adventurer named
Baldwyn, for the security of this part of the principality, which he had reduced by force of arms, and
for which, upon condition of so winning it, he had
previously done homage to William the Conqueror,
by whom he was appointed lieutenant of the Marches.
Baldwyn, though justly regarded as the founder of
the castle and town, did not long retain the territories which he had thus gained by conquest. In
the reign of William Rufus, Roger de Montgomery,
who had been created Earl of Shrewsbury, and had
obtained from that monarch a license to appropriate
to himself such lands on the west of the river Severn
as he could gain by force of arms, entered the principality of Powys with a considerable army, and,
seizing this castle and town, strengthened the fortifications of the former, and surrounded the latter
with a wall. Having thus succeeded in securing
permanent possession of them, he was in a short time
regarded as their second founder; and they were
consequently from that period distinguished as the
castle and town of Montgomery.

ARMS.
In the following year the Welsh, mustering all
their force, took the castle by surprise, plundered the
town, and laid waste the adjacent territory. But
the castle was soon repaired and the fortifications
strengthened by William Rufus, who, hearing while
in Normandy of the dreadful outrages committed by
the forces of Grufydd ab Cynan, Prince of North
Wales, and the sons of Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, advanced at the head of a large army to the Welsh
frontier, to repress their incursions. His repeated
attacks were, however, attended with very inconsiderable success; the Welsh sustained the conflict with
obstinate intrepidity and persevering vigour, and the
only advantage which the English monarch derived
from his campaign was the opportunity of throwing
supplies into Montgomery Castle. Elated with
their recent success, the Welsh, immediately after the
retreat of the English army, laid siege to this fortress,
which at that time was considered the strongest and
best fortified of any in the Marches. The garrison
opposed a brave and resolute defence, and for many
days successfully repelled the vigorous attacks of the
assailants; but the Welsh having at length made
several breaches in the walls, by undermining them,
carried the castle by storm, put the garrison to
the sword, and levelled the fortifications with the
ground.
This arduous struggle between the Norman lords
of the Marches, determined to retain possession of
the territories which they held by right of conquest,
and the native Welsh, whose ardent anxiety to regain
their lost dominions incited them to acts of the most
desperate valour, was maintained with equal obstinacy
on both sides for several years; and many of the
leaders of both parties were slain. But the English
finally prevailed; by their superior numbers and better discipline, they achieved a decisive victory over
the stubborn Welsh patriots, and compelled them
once more to retire to their strongholds in the mountains. After this, the Earl of Shrewsbury rebuilt
the castle of Montgomery; and in 1114, Owain,
brother of Grufydd ab Rhŷs, Prince of South Wales,
being taken prisoner by the English, was confined
in it; but he effected his escape, and fled for refuge
to the court of Grufydd ab Cynan, Prince of North
Wales.
In 1223, Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of North
Wales, having made numerous incursions into the
territories of the English vassals, and perpetrated
various acts of depredation and violence, for which
he refused to render any satisfactory atonement,
Henry III., who had taken the field with a powerful
army to chastise his insolence, returning towards the
Marches from a successful expedition into Radnorshire, rebuilt the castle of Montgomery in a situation
better adapted to check the incursions of the Welsh,
and on a site, the advantages of which, united with
its own natural strength, rendered it at that time impregnable. The custody of this important fortress
the English monarch confided to his great justiciary,
Hubert de Burgh, with an annual salary of 200 marks,
which allowance for the maintenance of the garrison
was augmented in time of war. In 1228, the soldiers
of the garrison, assisted by such of the natives as
were under their control, attempted to open a road
through the adjoining forest, an extensive tract fifteen
miles in length, which had long afforded a secure
retreat to the Welsh, who, concealing themselves in
this impenetrable recess, made frequent predatory
incursions on the lands of the English vassals, whom
they often surprised and murdered. While the men
were engaged in the work, they were suddenly
attacked by a large party of the natives, who, issuing
from their concealment, compelled them with great
slaughter to retire for refuge within the castle, to
which the Welsh afterwards laid regular siege. The
garrison, upon this occasion, sent to England for
assistance, and Henry, attended by Hubert de
Burgh, coming to its relief with all possible expedition, the Welsh raised the siege and retired into
their strongholds. The king, receiving a reinforcement soon after his arrival here, resolved to penetrate
into the recesses of the forest; and having with
great difficulty opened a road for his army, by setting
fire to the woods, at length reached a solitary abbey
of Carmelite friars, corruptly called Cridia, in the
Vale of Kerry; which, as it had hitherto afforded an
asylum to his enemies, he reduced to ashes. Upon
the site of this monastery Hubert de Burgh laid the
foundation of a castle, in the erection of which
Henry's whole army was employed with incredible
labour and under innumerable difficulties. In the
middle of a thick forest in the heart of an enemy's
country, surrounded by skirmishing parties of the
foe, and exposed to every hazard, the English persevered for three months in building this new fortress,
which it was intended to make impregnable. During
that period the Welsh, watching every movement,
and ready to take advantage of every favourable opportunity, frequently intercepted the English convoys
and slew their foraging parties; till at length, from
the want of provisions, and a suspicion of treachery in
his camp, Henry was induced to relinquish his undertaking, when it was nearly completed, and to conclude a treaty of peace with the Welsh prince, Llewelyn ab Iorwerth. It this treaty it was stipulated
that the fortress, in the erection of which so much
labour, blood, and treasure had been expended,
should be levelled with the ground.
In 1231, a party of the Welsh forces having
made an incursion into the territories dependent
upon the castle of Montgomery, the English, who
had secretly posted themselves in a situation to cut
off their retreat, suddenly attacked them, and, putting the greater number to the sword, conveyed the
remainder captives into the castle: these, by the
command of Hubert de Burgh, were instantly delivered over to the executioner, and their heads sent
as a present to the English monarch. Llewelyn ab
Iorwerth, to avenge this outrage upon his countrymen, laid waste the English Marches with the most
unrelenting fury; and, in the general consternation
which the violence and rapidity of the devastation
had excited, Hubert de Burgh was himself compelled to take refuge in England. Intent upon conquest and revenge, Llewelyn bore down all opposition; and among other fortresses then in the power
of the English, of which he obtained possession,
was the castle of Montgomery, which he committed
to the flames, at the same time putting all the garrison to death. The castle was almost immediately
recovered by a party of English forces, but Llewelyn
attempted to retake it, for that purpose encamping
his troops on a meadow at a short distance, in part of
which was a deep morass. He now availed himself
of the services of a monk from Abbey Cwm Hîr, in
Radnorshire, who was instructed by Llewelyn to
deceive the garrison with false intelligence. The
English soldiers, seeing the friar pass under the walls
of the castle, entered into conversation with him, and
being informed that Llewelyn with a small force was
waiting for a reinforcement, and might be easily
taken, or put to flight, a party of horse was despatched
from the castle to attack him by surprise. On their
approach, the Welsh, apparently with great precipitation, retreated into a wood; and the English, in the
eagerness of pursuit, plunged deep into the morass,
in which many were suffocated or drowned, whilst
the rest, encumbered with their armour and entangled
in the bog, became an easy prey to the Welsh, who
quickly put them to death with their spears. Henry
had been for some time preparing for a campaign
against Wales, and this disaster tended to accelerate
the arrival of the English army, commanded in person by that monarch, who, on his reaching the abbey
of Cwm Hîr, in resentment for the conduct of the
monk, set fire to the grange, and would also have
burnt the monastery itself, had not the abbot saved
it by the payment of 300 marks.
In 1259, the English king concluded a truce for
one year with Llewelyn ab Grufydd, Prince of North
Wales, which was ratified by commissioners on both
sides at the ford of Montgomery, and on its expiration was renewed at the same place, with additional
stipulations. Montgomery Castle, with several other
fortresses, was ceded to Llewelyn by Simon de
Montfort, under the sanction of the king, in 1265;
and in the year 1268, after a conference held here, a
treaty of peace was concluded between Henry and
Llewelyn, through the mediation of Ottoboni, the
pope's legate in England, which was ratified by the
contracting parties in person, and received from the
legate the sanction of the pope's authority. By this
treaty, the territories taken by both parties during
the war were to be restored; the Prince of Wales
was to do fealty to the English king for the principality, as had been done by his predecessors, and
was to pay into the English treasury the sum of
25,000 marks.
After the melancholy death of Llewelyn, in the
reign of Edward I., and the entire subjugation of
Wales by that monarch, Madoc, an illegitimate son
of the late prince, raised a formidable insurrection
in the northern parts of the principality, and gained
several brilliant victories over the English, particularly in the Marches. At length, however, being
attacked by the united forces of the lords marcher,
on the mountain called by the Welsh people Mynydd
Digoll, and by the English the Long Mountain, about
five miles from Montgomery, he was defeated and
slain, with most of his adherents. Edward I. granted
to Bogo de Knouill, constable of the castle of Montgomery, a certain quantity of timber out of his forest
of Corndon, to defray the expense of repairing the
walls and ditches round this town and castle; and a
grant for the same purpose was made by Edward III.,
under the authority of which a toll was to be taken
for seven years on certain articles exposed for sale at
the market, among which squirrels' skins are enumerated. In 1354, the castle, together with the hundred of Chirbury, in which it was then regarded as
being comprised, is mentioned, in an inquisition obtained for the reversal of the attainder against him,
as forming part of the possessions of Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, at the time of his death; after
which it passed, by the marriage of his sister and
sole heiress Anne, to the house of York, and thence
came to the crown. It appears to have been held,
as stewards of the crown, by the immediate ancestors
of Lord Herbert of Chirbury, and to have been the
principal residence of that distinguished family.
During the civil war in the reign of Charles I.,
the castle was garrisoned for the king, by its owner
Lord Herbert, whom that monarch had previously
appointed governor, but who, in 1644, on the approach of a parliamentarian army under Sir Thomas
Myddelton, went over to the adverse side, and displaced the royalist troops by a garrison of parliamentary soldiers, of which he was entrusted with the
command. A detachment of 4000 royalists, under
Lord Byron, soon after Herbert's defection, approaching Montgomery, compelled the forces of Sir Thomas
Myddelton to make a precipitate retreat to Oswestry,
leaving Lord Herbert with a weak garrison but ill
supplied with ammunition and provisions. The
king's party at once laid siege to the castle, which
must soon have been surrendered; but Sir Thomas,
being strengthened with a reinforcement conducted
by Sir William Brereton, Sir John Meldrum, and
Sir Thomas Fairfax, immediately marched to its
relief. A general engagement now became inevitable. The royalists, to the number of 5000 men,
were posted on the hill above the castle; and their
opponents, to the number of 3000, were drawn up in
the plain below. The former, descending the hill,
commenced the attack, and for some time gained
considerable advantage; but the parliamentarian soldiers, led on by some of the ablest of their generals,
and urged by the necessity of throwing succours into
this important fortress, rallied, and, with many desperate efforts, succeeded in reversing the fortune of
the day; and ultimately, after a severe and sanguinary conflict, obtained a decisive victory. The royalists were pursued towards Shrewsbury; more than
500 of them were killed in the battle and the pursuit,
and 1400 were taken prisoners. Of the parliamentarians, only sixty were killed and one hundred
wounded. The castle was afterwards dismantled by
order of the parliament; but it appears that Lord
Herbert received a compensation for the loss which
his property thus sustained.
The town is romantically situated, partly on the
summit and partly on the declivity of a hill rising
from the southern bank of the river Severn, and under
the shelter of a mountain of loftier elevation. Though
the county town, it is small in extent and of inconsiderable importance, consisting only of four streets
diverging nearly at right angles from the marketplace, in the centre. The houses, however, are well
built and of respectable appearance; and the town,
which is partially paved, and amply supplied with
water, has a prepossessing aspect, well adapted to
render it the residence of genteel families. Its environs are strikingly beautiful, abounding with diversified and highly picturesque scenery; and the hill
on which the town is built commands a fine and extensive view of the Vale of Montgomery, watered by
the river Severn, and bounded in the distance by the
Shropshire mountains. There is neither any trade
nor manufacture carried on. The market, which is
well supplied with corn and provisions of all kinds, is
on Thursday; and fairs are held on March 26th,
June 7th, September 4th, and November 12th, for
cattle, sheep, and horses.
The inhabitants received
their first charter of incorporation in the 11th
year of the reign of Henry
III., who made the place
a free borough, and endowed it with many privileges and immunities, including freedom from toll,
stallage, and all other customs throughout the king's
dominions, as well in England as in all other his lands. He gave the inhabitants liberty by this charter to hold a weekly market
on Thursday, and two yearly fairs, one on the vigil
and feast of St. Bartholomew and two following days,
the other on the vigil and feast of All Saints and six
following days; and in the 51st year of his reign, the
same monarch granted letters patent, in which he
briefly declares, "Know ye, that we, at the instance
of Edward, our beloved eldest son, have granted, for
us and our heirs, to the burgesses and good men of
Montgomery, that they and their heirs for ever be
acquitted from payment of murage throughout our
whole realm of England." The above charter was
confirmed in the 1st of Edward III., 1st of Richard
II., 1st of Henry IV., 1st of Henry V., 7th of Henry
VI., 1st of Henry VII., 28th of Henry VIII., 4th
of Queen Elizabeth, and 22nd of Charles II., and
perhaps at other periods now unknown. But the
privileges of the burgesses have not been extended
or abridged by the crown since the time of the third
Henry, whose grants are still in force, and whose regulations for the government of the borough are still
observed, the constitution of this ancient corporation,
though affected by the Reform Act, having been
left untouched by the act for the re-casting of municipal corporations passed in the year 1835. The
control is vested in two bailiffs, elected by the burgesses at large in common hall assembled, from six
of the freemen nominated by the high steward and
coroner, on Michaelmas-day, or during the previous
week; in an indefinite number of aldermen, a body
which consists of those who have served the office of
bailiff; a high steward, appointed by the owner of
the lordship of Montgomery, and who, by his deputy,
holds courts leet and courts baron; a recorder and
town-clerk, offices filled by one person, who also
chooses a deputy; a coroner; and two serjeants-atmace, elected by the bailiffs, and of whom one is
bellman and crier. A right to the freedom is possessed by all the sons of a free-born burgess; and
the resident freemen number among their privileges
a share in the rents and emoluments of certain lands,
in which also their widows participate during widowhood, if they continue to live within the borough.

CORPORATION SEAL.
The elective franchise was conferred in the 27th of
Henry VIII., who empowered it as the shire town,
in conjunction with the contributory boroughs of
Llanidloes, Llanvyllin, Machynlleth, and Welshpool,
to send a member to parliament. Since that period
the right of election has undergone material alteration. On a petition to the House of Commons, in
1685, complaining of an undue return, it was resolved that the right was vested not only in the burgesses of Montgomery, but also in those of the subordinate towns of Llanidloes, Llanvyllin, and Welshpool; whilst on a similar petition, presented to the
House in 1728, it was resolved that the elective franchise was confined solely to the borough of Montgomery, which then continued to return one member,
to the exclusion of the above-named contributory
places. These resolutions of the House of Commons
being at variance with each other, the burgesses of
Llanidloes, Llanvyllin, and Welshpool, and also those
of Machynlleth, the latter having neglected to support their claim at the two former periods, were, by
an act of the 28th of George III., allowed the power
of asserting their privilege of voting for a member
for Montgomery before another committee of the
House, and of appealing within twelve calendar
months against any future decision. No practical
benefit, however, appears to have resulted from the
permission granted by the act thus passed, no steps
being taken to get the privilege restored. By the
act of 1832, for "Amending the Representation,"
these four boroughs, with the addition of Newtown,
were again permitted to share in the return of a
member, the franchise being extended to the inhabitants of those places, duly qualified according to
the provisions of the act; and, for the purpose of
taking the votes, the bailiffs of Montgomery appoint
deputies at each place, who send to them their pollbooks, for the purpose of ascertaining the aggregate
amount, and making the return. The elective franchise in Montgomery was formerly vested in the burgesses at large, the number of whom claiming it, at
the time of passing the Reform Act, was about 185.
It is now vested in the old burgesses, if resident
within seven miles, and registered according to the
provisions of the act; and in every male person of
full age occupying, either as owner, or as tenant
under the same landlord, a house or other premises of
the annual value of not less than £10, provided he
be capable of registering as the act directs. The
present number of tenements of this value, within
the limits of the borough, which are co-extensive
with those of the parish, including an agricultural
district nearly ten miles in circumference, is eightythree.
The bailiffs are justices of the peace within the
borough, in which, however, the county magistrates
have a concurrent jurisdiction. The corporation
have power to hold a court of record for the recovery
of debts to any amount, every third Tuesday, the
jurisdiction of which extends over the borough; but
this privilege has been in disuse for eighty years.
Though Montgomery is reputed the county town, the
assizes take place at Welshpool (in spring) and Newtown (in summer), and the quarter-sessions are held
alternately at Welshpool and Newtown. The election
of a member for the shire has hitherto taken place
either here or at the town of Machynlleth, being regulated by the sitting of the county court at the time
of issuing the writ.
The town-hall, standing in the centre of the town,
is a neat plain edifice of brick, supported on arches
inclosing a sheltered area for the use of the market.
The upper part, which was very inadequate to the
purpose of the quarter-sessions (until lately held at
Montgomery), was taken down in 1828, and two
handsome and convenient apartments were constructed on a plan better adapted to that use, at
the sole expense of Lord Clive, afterwards Earl of
Powis, to whose son the building now belongs. The
principal room is sixty-seven feet and a half in
length, and twenty feet and a half in width, and had
a moveable partition at one end, forming a retiringroom for the jury. This apartment, which is well
lighted and handsomely fitted up, is used for assemblies and public meetings; and in the centre of the
west side is what formed the court-room, twenty-nine
feet and a half in length, and twenty-one feet wide.
The county gaol and house of correction, at the lower
end of the town, on the left of the road to Shrewsbury, was built at an expense of £10,000, defrayed
by the county. It is a handsome edifice of stone of
a durable quality, procured from the rock on which
the castle stood, and is arranged in the form of a
cross, having the governor's house in the centre, the
whole being inclosed within a boundary wall upwards
of twenty feet in height. The governor's house
commands a view of all the wards, and of the working
of the tread-mill, which is a double one, having one
wheel in the felons' ward, and the other in the
vagrants' ward, and the machinery being so contrived, that the labour can be regulated according to
the force supplied. The building comprises six
wards, with spacious airing-yards to each, in two of
which are a tread-wheel and an engine-house to provide the prison with water. Above the engine-house
and tread-wheel is an infirmary, with two sick wards
and matron's rooms; and over the governor's apartments is the chapel, to which there is a separate
entrance from each ward: beyond the chapel is an
ante-room leading to a committee-room for the visiting magistrates, and two waiting-rooms: and on the
roof, over the entrance and turnkey's lodge, is a place
of execution.
The parish of Montgomery was once included in
that of Chirbury, to which the church was a chapel of
ease. The living is a rectory, rated in the king's
books at £17. 4. 4½., and in the patronage of the
Lord Chancellor: the tithes have been commuted for
a rent-charge of £479. 18., and there is a glebe of
thirty perches. The parish church, dedicated to St.
Nicholas, is an ancient and venerable cruciform structure, in the early English style of architecture, with
a tower at the extremity of the north transept, which
was erected in 1816, at an expense of £1700, defrayed solely by Lord Clive, afterwards Earl of
Powis. The chancel is separated from the nave by
an exquisitely carved screen and ancient rood-loft,
removed from the priory of Chirbury, after the dissolution of that establishment. Brockton chancel,
forming the north transept, was built by the prior
of Chirbury, for the accommodation of the tenants of
his manor of Calmore, in this parish; and the south
transept, termed Lymore chancel, is appropriated to
the seat of Lymore Park, the property of the Earl of
Powis. The roof of the church is neatly panelled
into compartments, and in some parts is richly
carved; the east end of the chancel and the west end
of the nave are lighted with large lancet-shaped
windows. In the south transept, or Lymore chancel,
which is separated from the church by two finely
pointed arches, is a splendid monument to the memory
of Richard Herbert, Esq., father of Lord Herbert of
Chirbury, containing the recumbent effigies of himself in complete armour, and of his wife by his side,
on an altar-tomb: in the front are representations
of six of their sons and two of their daughters in a
kneeling posture; and under the tomb is the figure
of Richard wrapped in his winding-sheet. Near this
monument are the effigies of two knights in complete
armour, of the noble family of Mortimer, Earls of
March. Previously to the Reformation there was a
chapel in one of the transepts, dedicated to St. Mary.
The churchyard, which is of considerable size, and
commands a fine view of the adjacent country, is
surrounded with a beautiful walk shaded by lime and
elm trees of stately and luxuriant growth. There
are places of worship for Calvinistic Methodists and
Independents.
A free school is supported by subscription, aided
with two rent-charges amounting to £9, one of £5 by
John Edwards, of Deptford, in 1770, and the other
of £4 by Richard, Lord Herbert. One or two other
schools are partly maintained by subscription, and three
or four Sunday schools are held. There are several
donations and bequests in land and in money, the
produce of which is distributed among the poor. The
principal of these is a rent-charge of £5 on the West
Ham water-works, in the parish of Stepney, Middlesex, granted by John Tanner in 1649: another
charge of £4 was left by Henry Whittingham, in
1631; and Edward Weaver in 1763 bequeathed £24,
the interest of which, 20s., is, with the two rentcharges, divided periodically. In addition to the
preceding, an unknown benefactor gave divers detached pieces of land, amounting altogether to nearly
seventeen acres, and paying a rent of £29 per annum,
which is generally distributed after Christmas, in
small sums. The now-lost charities, amounting to
£75, and part of which was a bequest of £40 left by
Mrs. Hannah Barkley in 1736, were laid out at
interest about seventy years since on insufficient
security.
Of the ancient castle of the Herbert family there
are only some inconsiderable remains, consisting
chiefly of the fragment of a tower at the southwestern angle, and a few detached portions of low
walls, which afford but a very inadequate memorial
of its former extent and magnificence. This fortress
occupied the extremity of a long eminence, on the
northern side of the town, and apparently impending
over it, the projecting ridge being of great height,
very steep, with an escarpment quite precipitous. It
was defended by four deep fosses cut in the solid
rock, anciently crossed by drawbridges. Between
the extremity of the building and the precipitous
declivity of the height whereon it stood is a level
spot of ground, which is supposed to have formed
the place of parade for the garrison. Within the
last half century part of the shattered walls fell down,
and among the disjoined fragments a labourer found
several silver spoons, which he soon after sold to
an itinerant dealer; and at various times, old military weapons, broken swords, arrow-heads, and cannon-balls, have been discovered among the ruins.
At the bottom of the hill, on the north side of the
road leading to Garthmill, are the remains of a
smaller fortress, surrounded by a moat, and having
an artificial mound near the western extremity of the
area: they are supposed to indicate the site of the
castle originally built by the Norman Baldwyn, prior
to the erection of the later castle by Henry III. On
a hill at no great distance from the latter are the remains of a very extensive camp, evidently of British
origin: this hill is intersected by several deep fosses
in that part where it is most accessible, and in other
parts it is sufficiently protected by its precipitous declivity; the approach is guarded by four smaller
fosses, from which were two entrances to the main
work. Offa's Dyke runs across the country about
half a mile below the town. Between Montgomery
and Welshpool are the remains of a spacious Roman
fortification, called The Gaer, situated on the Roman
road that passes through the Vale of Severn, from
Caer-Sws, five miles south-west of Newtown. The
walls by which the town was anciently surrounded,
were flanked by round and square bastion towers,
and had four gates, called respectively, "Arthur's,
Cedewen, Ceri (or Kerry), and Chirbury" gates, all
of which have long since disappeared: there are
still some remains of the walls, varying, in different
places, from a few inches only to several feet in
height above the surface of the ground. A fosse
near the bottom of the town indicates the site of
Black Hall, once the hospitable mansion of the
Herberts; it was consumed by fire, on which occasion the lodge in Lymore Park, at a small distance
from the town, was enlarged for the reception of the
family. The house thus enlarged is still kept up by
the Earl of Powis, and, with its ancient front of timber frame-work and plaster, forms an interesting
and venerable feature in the scenery of the park.
From the castle hill, and from the hill on which the
large British camp above-noticed is situated, are
fine views of the Vales of Montgomery, Churchstoke,
and Chirbury; but the most magnificent prospect of
the surrounding country is obtained from the hill
immediately above them. The ground continues
gradually to rise to the summit of this eminence,
which is marked by a fine cluster of fir-trees, and
the view embraces the extent of the Vale of Severn
for several miles, that noble river pursuing a winding
course among verdant meadows and luxuriant groves,
by which latter it is frequently intercepted from the
sight, the stream thus appearing like numerous small
lakes, whose banks are decorated with romantic
scenery. Among the many interesting objects which
this extensive prospect embraces are, Powis Castle
and its park, near Welshpool, numerous other gentlemen's seats and pleasure-grounds, picturesque villages, and distant hills of varied appearance, in
beautiful and harmonious contrast, beyond which are
seen, in towering grandeur, the lofty mountains of
Plinlimmon and Cader Idris, and the fine chain of
the Arans.
Edward Herbert, Baron of Chirbury, distinguished
equally for the versatility of his talents and the
eccentricity of his character, is by some said to have
been a native of this place. The baron has been
noticed above, as being owner, and holding the office
of governor, of Montgomery Castle. He was an
active politician, and the author of several works,
including memoirs of his life, and a mischievous
work entitled De Veritate, upon which he appears to
have principally rested his claim to literary reputation. His name is chiefly remembered as one of the
earliest reducers of deism into a system, by asserting
in his work De Veritate the sufficiency and universality
of natural religion, and having the boldness to discard all extraordinary revelation as unnecessary.
Among his other publications is the "History of the
Life and Reign of Henry VIII.," printed the year
after his death. He was born in 1783, and died in
1648. A younger brother of Lord Herbert's, George
Herbert, also born in Montgomery Castle, the family
abode, occupies a high place among English writers
for the general beauty of his poetry, which was once
so popular that, when Izaak Walton wrote, as many
as twenty thousand copies of the "Temple" had been
sold. He also wrote the well-known "Country Parson," a prose work. His learning appears to have
been considerable; and he has left behind him a
name of enduring reputation, for the holiness of his
life, which, says his eldest brother Lord Herbert,
was so conspicuous "that about Salisbury, where he
lived beneficed for many years, he was little less than
sainted." Lord Bacon, Sir Henry Wotton, and Dr.
Donne, were among his friends. He was born in
1593, and died in 1632.
Montgomeryshire
MONTGOMERYSHIRE, an inland county
of North Wales, bounded on the south-east, east,
and north-east by the English county of Salop, and
a small detached portion of Denbighshire; on the
north, by Denbighshire; on the north-west and west,
by Merionethshire; on the south-west, by Cardiganshire; and on the south, by Radnorshire; the two
latter counties forming part of South Wales. It extends from 52° 21 to 52° 51' (N. Lat.), and from
3° to 3° 54' (W. Lon.); and includes an area, according to Evans' Map of North Wales, of 491,600
statute acres, or about 768 square miles. Within its
limits are 13,653 inhabited houses, 888 uninhabited,
and 34 in course of erection; the population is 69,219,
of whom 34,283 are males, and 34,936 females.
The annual value of real property assessed to the
property and income tax, for the year ending April
1843, was as follows: lands, £258,068; houses,
£54,092; tithes, £20,313; manors, £325; canal
property, £5121; quarries and mines, £432; other
kinds of property, £2735: total annual value for the
whole county, £341,086.
At the period of the Roman invasion of Britain,
this county, in common with nearly all the rest of
North Wales, was included in the territory of the
Ordovices. Under the Roman dominion it contained
the station Mediolanum, considered by Sir Richard
Colt Hoare and most other antiquaries to have been
situated in the vale of the Tanat, or that of the
Vyrnwy; and there are supposed to have been other
establishments of this people, at Caer-Sws in the vicinity of Newtown, at Machynlleth, and at the Gaer
near Montgomery. The Roman roads were, the Via
Devana, which, from the station Nidus, at Neath in
Glamorganshire, crossed the county in its progress
to the station Deva, at Chester; and a branch of the
southern Watling-street, which crossed the northern
part of the county in its way to Segontium, the present Carnarvon: besides which, there were several
vicinal ways.
On the partition of the sovereignty of North
Wales, about the year 876, by Rhodri Mawr, or
Roderic the Great, among his three sons, Montgomeryshire was comprised in the kingdom of Powys,
the seat of the government of which was originally
established at Pengwern, the present Shrewsbury.
Afterwards, on the native Britons being driven from
the plains of Shropshire into the mountains of the principality, by the victorious arms of the Mercian monarch
Offa, the seat of government was removed to Mathraval, near Meivod, in the beautiful Vale of Vyrnwy.
Henceforward the sovereignty was called indifferently the kingdom of Powys, or of Mathraval; and
its extent was still further diminished by the invasions of the Mercians, whose warlike leader raised
a conspicuous barrier between his newly-acquired
territories and those still possessed by the Cymry,
which barrier included in the Mercian kingdom the
eastern part of the lands at present forming the county
of Montgomery. Numerous were the excursions
made from Mathraval across this boundary by the
Princes of Powys, in their attempts to recover their
former dominions, and in predatory expeditions.
During the reign of Alfred the Great of England, an
army of marauding Danes, under the command of
the celebrated piratical leader Hasting, in 894, extended its ravages into this county, and advanced to
the village of Buttington, the Butdigingtune of the
Saxon Chronicle, in the vicinity of the present town
of Welshpool, where, receiving intelligence that an
English army was approaching to oppose them, they
intrenched themselves on both banks of the Severn.
Ethelred, governor of Mercia, two other aldermen,
and the king's thanes, residing in the strongholds
which he had erected, with the people summoned from
the east of Pedridan, the west of Selwood, the east
and north of the Thames, the west of the Severn, and
some parts of North Wales, invested the camp of the
Danes for some weeks, and reduced them to such extremity that they were obliged to eat the flesh of their
horses. Roused by their sufferings to furious action,
the North-men made at last a desperate attempt to
break from their prison, and, throwing themselves
upon the Anglo-Saxons, who formed the eastern part
of the blockade, after a warm action, in which several
royal thanes perished, the greater number achieved
their escape, and hastened eastward to the coast of
Essex without further molestation.
The kingdom of Powys, after the Norman conquest of England, became a principal object of attack
to the foreign adventurers. One of these, named
Baldwyn, swore fealty and did homage to William
the Conqueror for this part of Cambria, which he
promised to secure by force of arms; and having partially accomplished his purpose, he erected a fortress,
which formed the origin of a town called by the
Welsh, after his name, Trê Valdwyn, or "Baldwyn's town;" whence the county derives the name,
which it still bears in their language, of Sîr Drê
Valdwyn, or Swydd Drê Valdwyn. This castle, however, must have soon fallen into the possession of the
Welsh, since Roger de Montgomery, who for his services had been created by the Conqueror Earl of
Arundel and Shrewsbury, and had received a license
to conquer from the Welsh to the west of the Severn,
entered Powysland a few years after with a powerful
body of forces, and took the castle and town of Trê
Valdwyn, which he fortified anew in his own right.
He then gave the place his own name of Montgomery, which it has ever since retained, and communicated to the county of which it is the ancient chief
town.
A circumstance that facilitated the conquests of
the Norman barons in this quarter, was the subdivision of Powys between two of the descendants of
Mervyn, son of Roderic the Great, into Powys
Vadoc and Powys Gwenwynwyn, the former comprising the northern, and the latter the southern part
of the original sovereignty: these again afterwards
became subdivided among the descendants of those
two princes. The year following the capture of
Trê Valdwyn castle, the Welsh, mustering all their
strength, retook it by a coup de main, plundered the
town, and desolated the surrounding country. The
fortress was again repaired and strengthened by William Rufus, who, to put an end to the depredations
committed by the Welsh forces under Grufydd ab
Cynan and the sons of Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, led an
army into the Marches, but was compelled to withdraw it with great loss, after throwing succours into
Montgomery Castle. This castle, on the retreat of
the English, was immediately beleaguered by the
Welsh, who, having made a vigorous siege, at last
took it by storm, and levelled it with the ground.
The Norman arms, however, soon afterwards again
prevailed, and the castle was rebuilt by the Earl of
Shrewsbury. In 1080, Grufydd ab Cynan, laying
just claim to the throne of North Wales, or Gwynedd,
and landing a large army of mercenaries in Pembrokeshire, was joined by Rhŷs ab Tewdwr, Prince of
South Wales, and their confederated armies marched
northward against Trahaiarn, the usurping prince,
whom they encountered on the hills of Carno, in this
county, where they defeated his forces, and slew
Trahaiarn himself, in a most sanguinary conflict.
In the year 1191, in consequence of various depredations having been committed by the Welsh on the
inhabitants of the Marches, Hubert, Archbishop of
Canterbury, in the absence of Richard I. in the Holy
Land, besieged Castell Côch, now Powis Castle,
near Welshpool, which he took after a vigorous resistance; and having left in it a strong garrison, he
returned to England. The fortress was retaken by
Gwenwynwyn, prince of this part of Powysland, in
1197. That chieftain, disapproving of the conduct
of the Prince of Gwynedd, submitted to become a
vassal to King John, holding his territories in capite
of the English crown; and after the succession of his
son Grufydd to the government, the fortress of Castell Côch was taken and dismantled by Llewelyn ab
Iorwerth, in the year 1233. Henry III., having
rebuilt Montgomery Castle in 1223 on a new site,
committed it to the custody of Hubert de Burgh; and
while in the possession of this governor, it was besieged by the Welsh, but relieved by an English
army. A great number of Welsh, taken prisoners in
one of their predatory excursions, in 1231, having
been put to death by the English, Llewelyn, in retaliation, took and burned this fortress, putting the
garrison to the sword. In the great revolt under
Owain Glyndwr, after repeated successes obtained by
the Welsh, this chieftain assembled the states of
Wales at Machynlleth, on the western border of the
county; and by that assembly his title to the principality was solemnly acknowledged.
During the civil war of the seventeenth century,
Montgomery Castle was garrisoned for the king by
Lord Herbert of Chirbury, who, on the approach of
Sir Thomas Myddelton, in September 1644, surrendered the fortress without opposition, and joined the
parliament. In a short time, the royalist forces conducted by Lord Byron approached Montgomery, and
obliged the army of Myddelton to make a precipitate retreat to Oswestry, leaving Lord Herbert, who
had thus changed sides, with a slender and ill-provided
garrison to defend the castle, the siege of which was
immediately commenced by the royalists. Meanwhile the parliamentarian army, being reinforced with
troops led by Sir William Brereton, Sir John Meldrum, and Sir Thomas Fairfax, marched back to the
reilef of this important post, though even now much
less numerous than the royalist army, the latter
amounting to about 5000 men, and the other only to
about 3000. A general engagement ensued on the
18th of September, in which the parliamentarian
forces at first gave way, but rallying with desperate
valour, they at length gained a decisive victory, and
the main body of the routed troops was pursued
towards Shrewsbury. Lord Powys, on the breaking
out of the civil war, had garrisoned Castell Côch, or
Powys Castle, for the king; but it was taken by Sir
Thomas Myddelton, in October 1644.
Prior to the passing of the act 6th and 7th of
William IV., c. 77, Montgomeryshire was in the
dioceses of St. Asaph, Bangor, Hereford, and St.
David's, the whole being included in the province
of Canterbury: under that act it forms, or will form,
part of the dioceses of St. Asaph and Bangor only.
It comprises the deaneries of Cedewen, Cyfeiliog,
Pool, and Arustley; and the total number of parishes
is fifty-four, of which twenty-six are rectories,
eighteen vicarages, and the rest perpetual curacies.
For purposes of civil government it is divided into
the nine hundreds of Cawrse, Deythur, Llanidloes,
Llanvyllin, Machynlleth, Mathraval, Montgomery,
Newtown, and Pool. It contains the boroughs and
market-towns of Montgomery, Llanidloes, Llanvyllin, Machynlleth, Newtown, and Welshpool; and
the market-town of Llanvair. One knight is returned to parliament for the shire, and one representative for the contributory boroughs. For many
years prior to the passing of the act of 1832, for
"Amending the Representation of the People," Montgomery was the only place that exercised the elective
franchise, all the rest, with the exception of Newtown, which is a newly created borough, having discontinued to join in sending a member to parliament.
The member for the shire is chosen at Montgomery
or Machynlleth, according as the county court is held
at either of these two towns next after the issuing of
the parliamentary writ; and the polling-places, according to the Boundary Act, are Montgomery,
Llanidloes, Llanvair, Llanvyllin, and Machynlleth.
The county is included in the North Wales circuit;
the spring assizes are held at Welshpool, the summer
assizes at Newtown, and the quarter-sessions alternately at those two places: the county gaol and house
of correction are situated at Montgomery. The
county comprises the entire poor-law union of Newtown and Llanidloes, the greater part of the unions
of Machynlleth and Llanvyllin, and very small portions of those of Dôlgelley, Atcham, and Clun; also
the greater part of the incorporation of Forden,
formed at the close of the last century.
A large portion of the surface consists of wild
and sterile mountains. The highest of these are in
the south-western part of it, in a line extending
from Pumlumon, or Plinlimmon, just within its
south-western boundary, northward between Llanbrynmair and Carno, and by Llyn Gwyddior, into
Merionethshire. This is the parting ridge between
the rivers flowing eastward, and those taking a contrary direction. The most extensive and fruitful
vale is that traversed from south-west to north-east
by the river Severn, which has its source in the
southern part of the above range, and as high as
Llanidloes ceases to be a mountain torrent, taking its
course thenceforward through a delightful valley,
more like the large vales of England than those
stripes of cultivation by which the mountains of Wales
are generally intersected. Numerous villages lie
scattered beneath the hills in this fertile district, and
the banks of the river are adorned by numerous
gentlemen's seats. Montgomery lies a short distance
eastward from the river, which bending northward,
the vale greatly expands in front of the isolated hills
of Breiddin, while the stream flows within about a
mile of the superb groves, lawns, and terraces of
Powis Castle, and becomes navigable at Pool Quay,
three miles below Welshpool. From Llanidloes
down the vale to Newtown, and thence to this point,
the changing scenery is exceedingly fine. The
valleys to the north of the Vale of Severn are much
less extensive and productive; those of the Vyrnwy
and Tanat, however, are fertile and highly picturesque, and are watered, the former by rivers descending from the above-mentioned parting ridge on
the west of the vale, and the latter by streams from
the Berwyn range of mountains, which, commencing
near Chirk Castle, in Denbighshire, occupies the
northern and north-western parts of this county, in
its course south-westward to the coast of Merionethshire. The Vale of Dovey, which, situated in the
westernmost part of the county, extends from northeast to south-west on the western side of the parting
ridge, is distinguished for its fertility and highly interesting scenery.
An eastern and southern range of mountains begins
on the north-east, with the Breiddin hills, on the
eastern side of the Severn, on the border of Shropshire, and includes the Long Mountain as far as
Nant-Cribba. Hence it extends by Montgomery
Castle, and forms the Kerry hills, which occupy the
south-eastern side of the county, and along the summit of which is carried the boundary line between
Montgomeryshire and the counties of Salop and
Radnor, and between North and South Wales. It
afterwards comprises the Llangurig mountains, and
terminates in the naked summit of Plinlimmon, rising
to an elevation of 2463 feet above the level of the
sea: this grand height is environed by various other
heights of less elevation, of which the Biga mountains form a line of high table-land on the northern side
of the valley of the Severn, which is here somewhat
narrow. In the Severn range, thus extending along
the east and south sides of the county to Plinlimmon,
Breiddin Hill rises to the height of 999 feet above
the level of the Severn; the Long Mountain, to
1330 feet above the level of the sea; and Llandinam
Mountain, to 1898 feet above the same level. Two
others of the most distinguished summits, respectively
called Moel-y-Golva and Cevn-y-Castell, form a group
with Breiddin Hill; the former, in the shape of a
vast rugged cone, attaining an elevation of 1199 feet
above the sea. Breiddin Hill is crowned by a lofty
obelisk, erected in commemoration of the naval victories of Admiral Lord Rodney. The general character of the Severn range is, a regularity of outline,
gradual slopes, and rounded summits, indicating the
soft nature of the rocks of which the hills are composed; while the surface is uniformly covered with
herbage, that supports numerous flocks of small sheep.
The vegetable produce of the Berwyn range is, fern
and furze, or gorse, upon the lower and drier outskirts; heath upon the loftier summits; and rushes,
with a variety of mosses and alpine aquatic plants,
on the wet slopes and hollows. Isolated hills and
rocks rise in almost every part of Montgomeryshire
that is not occupied by the principal ranges abovementioned; of these, the Carno mountains form a
proudly pre-eminent group, nearly in the centre of the
county. The narrow and rocky valleys generally
have their sides adorned by hanging woods. In the
western and south-western districts are various small
lakes, the sources of rapid streams.
With regard to climate, the hills are particularly
bleak, and are for the most part exposed to the full
effects of cold easterly winds. In the narrow valleys
the wind is frequently boisterous, but the climate is
highly salubrious, and instances of longevity are
numerous. Of the westerly winds, which prevail,
on an average, during nine months of the year, the
strongest are those that blow from the south-west
and north-west; the north-west wind is here termed
Gwynt y Creigiau, in allusion to the high mountains
of Snowdon and the Arans, from which it rushes into
this county. The easterly wind, which prevails
during most of the other three months, is called
Gwynt Côch y Mwythig, or the "red wind of Salop,"
as it effectually checks the verdure of spring, and
converts the green blades into reddish husks.
The dry argillaceous mountains have generally a
thin light peaty soil, with a substratum of hungry
light mould tinged yellow by oxyde of iron; the
Berwyn range has on its loftier summits a shallow
peat resting upon clay or rammel, and, on springy
slopes and hollows, various depths of peat. A ferny
soil, or hazel mould, is common in different places,
more particularly on the sides of the inferior hills,
where it produces naturally fern, broom, and the
larger ulex, or gorse, together with various kinds of
underwood. The till, or hungry light soil, tinged
as above mentioned with oxyde of iron, is also often
found on the slopes of the smaller valleys. The
same valleys, however, produce abundant vegetation
of a more valuable kind, and are enlivened by rich
corn-fields and meadows: these vales, more especially
in their higher recesses, and on their declivities
having a southern aspect, frequently possess light
soils, consisting of various admixtures of sandy loam,
pebbles, broken shale, peat, &c.; and in their lower
levels, free loams, well adapted for the general purposes of tillage. Free loams also abound in the
greater portion of the Vale of Severn, and in some
parts of the Vales of Vyrnwy and Tanat. The finest
arable land in Montgomeryshire is on the eastern
side of it, bordering on Salop, where agriculture is
conducted on the more improved systems, and the
management of farms differs but little from that practised on the adjoining lands in England: the soil
here consists of strong loams, well adapted for the
culture of wheat or for permanent pasture, which
occupy the lower parts of the Vales of Severn and
Vyrnwy, with their outskirts. The soils of the
eastern parts of the county, beyond a line drawn from
the Llanymynech lime-works, at the south-eastern
extremity of Denbighshire, south-westward by Guilsfield, Powis Castle, Nant-Cribba, &c., to the border
of Radnorshire, are of a brown colour.
The middle, western, and south-western parts of
the county, owing to their elevated exposure and the
ungenial nature of the soil, are unfavourable to the
growth of corn; so that only about 60,000 acres are
under tillage, including about a third of the vale
lands, which produce a considerable quantity of grain
for exportation. Fallowing is practised on the strong
soils of the Vales of Severn and Vyrnwy. The kind
of corn in most extensive cultivation was oats, but
since the close of the last century it has been wheat,
the quantity of which has greatly increased; much of
the former, however, is still grown, chiefly on the
uplands. The proportion of barley has also, like that
of oats, decreased. Rye is occasionally cultivated,
principally on the hills, where it is generally the first
crop on the new inclosures, after paring and burning.
Wheat is most often cut with the reaping-hook,
though sometimes with cradled scythes; oats and
barley, usually with naked scythes; and light crops
of every species of grain are now cut with the naked
scythe, in preference to the more tedious mode with
the sickle. Peas, which were once much grown in
the valleys, are now cultivated only on a small scale;
beans are scarcely ever to be met with. Turnips are
generally raised, as also are potatoes; and small lots
of mangel-wurzel, by the best farmers, on kindly
soils. Hemp gardens, which were formerly attached
to almost all the cottages in the eastern part of the
county, are now seldom seen. The most common
artificial grass is red clover, to which white Dutch,
trefoil, and rye-grass are sometimes added; but the
improved system of using the new artificial and
natural grasses is yet unpractised in this county.
The quantity of productive grazing-land is about
180,000 acres. Those portions of it situated on the
eastern side of the county are almost wholly appropriated to the dairy, much of the produce of which,
both in butter and cheese, is sent to the markets of
Shrewsbury, Chester, and Bridgnorth. The latter
article is generally made like that of Cheshire, though
sometimes like Gloucester cheese; annatto is used to
colour it in the lowlands, but seldom in the uplands.
The principal object of the farmer, in the hilly districts, is the rearing of cattle to be fattened in more
fertile parts of the island for places requiring a large
supply: the Vales of Severn and Vyrnwy are almost
the only districts in which the pastures are rich
enough for fattening cattle. Meadows artificially
irrigated are common in situations convenient for the
purpose. Lime is carried as a manure to a distance
of thirty or forty miles into the county from the
Porthywaen and Llanymynech rocks, near its northeastern confines: the stone itself, and coal for burning
it, are also conveyed by the Montgomeryshire canal
to Welshpool, Berriew, Newtown, and other places,
where many kilns have been formed on the wharfs,
producing, when in full employ, from 400 to 600
bushels of lime each daily. Among the agricultural
implements, the "Lummas plough," a variety of the
Rotherham, is the kind of plough which has been in
common use; the Scotch kind is also much used on
level land. The improved iron ploughs, however,
are being extensively introduced; with the various
rollers, drills, threshing-machines, &c., of the day.
The cattle of the uplands are of the common
small sort; in the vales they are of a larger and
superior kind, and those reared in the Vales of
Severn and Vyrnwy are much esteemed by the
graziers. The native breed of the county is shortlegged and usually of a red colour, with black faces;
but a kind that has of late years become very numerous in the Vale of Severn is long-legged, and of a
light brown colour, except their faces, which are
white: they are said to have been brought originally
from Devon. The Herefordshire cattle, with white
faces, are also much in demand. The most remarkable breed of sheep is that peculiar to the Kerry
hills, almost the only kind in North Wales which
produces perfect wool, that of every other being
more or less mixed with coarse long hairs, called by
the manufacturers hemps. The characteristics of
this breed, which is without horns, hardy, and comparatively tame, are, large woolly cheeks, white
bunchy foreheads, white legs covered with wool, and
a broad beaver-like tail; their whole form, however,
falls short of compact symmetry. The average weight
of their fleeces is one lb. and a half; and that of
their carcases, when fat, from ten to fourteen lb.
per quarter. The Kerry hills, before their inclosure
under an act of parliament obtained in 1797, are
said to have generally pastured in summer about
12,000 of these sheep, besides horses and cattle. A
black-faced and particularly fine-woolled race of
sheep is bred upon the Long Mountain, near Welshpool, and on the other hills, on the English border,
stretching thence northward to Wrexham, in Denbighshire. The other hilly parts of the county are
occupied by the small ordinary kind of mountain
sheep, which weigh from seven to twelve lb. per
quarter, and yield fleeces of from three-quarters of a
lb. to one lb. and a half. These various breeds of
sheep have in some instances been intermixed, and
different varieties from several parts of England have
been introduced by individuals into the inclosed
districts: among these the South Down sheep are
the most numerous.
In the hilly parts of Montgomeryshire great
numbers of very small and hardy ponies, commonly
called merlins, breed promiscuously, and range the
mountains until they are three years old, when they
are brought down for the first time, and driven to
fairs, without being trained, like flocks of cattle or
sheep: the place of sale generally exhibits a scene of
great activity and violent exertion, since each that is
purchased, being immediately seized from among the
untamed herd, displays all the restlessness of its wild
character. Numbers of these small animals are employed in their native districts, more particularly in
conveying the produce of the manufactures of the
county to market; and they are unrivalled in the
agility with which they climb the slippery ascents of
the mountains. There is also a breed rather larger
than these, which are hardy, handsome, and active;
and the vales of the county have long been noted for
an excellent breed of horses, the superiority of which
is to be attributed to the introduction of some blood
horses from Spain into this part of the country, by
Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester; or, as others say,
to the circumstance of a stud having been kept by
Queen Elizabeth at Park, near Caer-Sws, in the
Vale of Severn. Many good draught horses, for the
coach and the wagon, are sold into England.
Orchards and gardens are numerous in the vale
lands on the eastern side of the county, but all attempts profitably to establish orchards in the more
elevated regions have hitherto failed, the blossoms
being seldom preserved from the effects of late
frost; and even should the trees escape the paralyzing effects of easterly winds, the cold and wet, so
frequently experienced during the summer months,
render the flavour of the fruit much less delicious
than that ripened in more favourable aspects. In
plentiful seasons a few farmers make cider or perry
for their own consumption.
Montgomeryshire has ever been distinguished for
its woods; it is still the best wooded county in North
Wales, and one of the best in the island in proportion
to its extent. Its timber, about a century ago, was
so abundant, that the fuel of a great part of the district consisted almost entirely of the best species,
namely, cleft. The first sale of timber from the
county for the use of the navy was from Abertanat
wood, on the confines of Shropshire, about the
year 1730; and was followed, about 1750, by
others from the woods of Powis Castle park, Aber
Naint, and Trêv-Edryd; since which time Montgomeryshire has contributed annually to the supply
of the navy and for building merchant-vessels.
About the year 1770, the size and quality of the
Montgomeryshire oak were so well known and esteemed in the dock-yards, particularly those of
Plymouth and Deptford, that a great competition
arose among the buyers, which raised the price above
that of timber of the same kind produced in almost
any other part of the kingdom: this rivalry, however, subsided about the commencement of the
present century. Owing to the constant demand
upon the county, the extent of its woods gradually
lessened until within the last fifty years, when planting, which before that period had been adopted only
by a few spirited individuals, first began to be practised on a large scale by many proprietors. There
are nursery gardens for forest-trees near Welshpool,
Newtown, Montgomery, Meivod, &c.
The extent of waste land has been greatly diminished by the four following inclosures: viz., that
of Strata Marcella, Tîr-y-Myneich, and Deythur or
Deuddwr, amounting to about 2600 acres, under an
act passed in 1788; that of Plâs Dinas and Mechain
Iscoed, about 5000 acres, under an act in 1789; that
of Cedewain, Hopetown, and Overgorddwr, about
15,000 acres, under an act obtained in 1796; and
that of the Kerry hills, about 20,000 acres, under an
act in 1797. Before the allotment of these commons,
about one-half of the county was reckoned waste,
and there yet remain nearly 200,000 acres of this
description of land, notwithstanding that various other
extensive wastes have since been inclosed, some by
acts of parliament, and others by common consent of
the parties interested, such as the lordship of Arwystli, Mechain Uwchcoed, Llanvyllin, Caer-Einion
Uwchcoed and Iscoed, and Teirtrêv. Many of the
uninclosed hills have a good depth of soil, and are
covered with moss, fern, and grasses to their very
summits; but the higher mountains, abounding with
turf, can hardly be more advantageously applied than
in pasturing in summer a hardy race of sheep, and
affording fuel to a district where wood is scarce and
from which coal is very distant. As a great part of
the low land in the manors of Strata Marcella, Tîry-Myneich, and Deythur, above mentioned, was
subject to frequent inundation by the sudden overflow of the rivers Severn and Vyrnwy, especially the
former river, a clause of the act for their inclosure
enabled the commissioners to make embankments to
keep the floods within a proper limit. These, with
the whole inclosure, were completed at an expense
of nearly £26,000. Commencing on the Severn, a
little below Pool Quay, they are continued to Cymmerau, at the junction of the two rivers, and thence
extend for some miles along the course of the Vyrnwy
towards Llanymynech. The banks have been repeatedly broken down in different places by flood
waters descending with irresistible force from the
mountains. The chief articles of fuel in the county
are, coal imported by the Montgomeryshire canal,
and peat in the mountainous districts, where the
former article cannot be conveniently procured; the
little wood now burned as fuel consists merely of the
waste pieces and small branches.
The mineral productions of the county are various, though not of the first importance. The mountains are almost entirely composed of argillaceous
schistus; but in those of the Berwyn chain are ranges
of primitive rocks. Breiddin Hill is chiefly composed of greenish serpentine; and Moel-y-Golva, its
south-western extremity, contains some burr for millstones: a soft shale, however, is the chief component
of the whole of the Plinlimmon (or great southern)
range, and of the hills as far north as the Vale of
Vyrnwy, though in some places beds of a more compact and regularly stratified stone are found, and
quarried for flooring, gravestones, &c. Slates, for
the roofs of houses and other buildings, are obtained
in the Berwyn range, chiefly at Llangynog, where
are two extensive quarries, from which about a
million of slates are sold annually. Those here
raised are strong and durable, but quartzose veins
pervading the whole rock from which they are taken,
they exhibit a coarser surface than those of a more
homogeneous composition. The Llangynog slate
resists the action of sulphuric acid for ten days.
Some of the slabs contain beautiful cubes of mundic.
It is worthy of remark, that the strata of these
quarries, and of the whole north-eastern part of the
Berwyn range, dip eastward; while south-westward
from the deep ravine called Bwlch Sych, in the parish
of Hîrnant, about three miles south-west of Llangynog, they incline westward. The slate range
extends in this direction by Llanwddyn, where
quarries have been opened, to Dinas-Mowddwy, and
other places more westward, in Merionethshire.
The Plinlimmon mountains are not distinguished for
either the abundance or the richness of their ores:
lead-ore is raised on the Berth-lwyd and other estates
near Llanidloes, and at Esgair Hîr, on the border of
Cardiganshire, near the copper-mine called Esgair
Vraith. This copper-mine is on a north and south
vein of sulphate of copper, which forms a tangent
with the east and west lead-vein of Esgair Hîr.
Another lead-mine is that of the Berwyn range at
Llangynog, producing the species of ore called
galena, or potters' ore. Its produce for many years
during the early part of the last century was not less
than 4000 tons annually; the vein stretched from
east-by-south to west-by-north, and was one of the
richest ever discovered in Britain. At length, on
being pursued eastward, the vein proved quite barren; and on the workmen following its dip westward,
the work became inundated, and was consequently
relinquished. Early in the present century this mine
was let on lease by the proprietor, the Earl of Powis,
to a company, who, at a great expense, drove a level
beneath, and resumed the working of the original
vein, which runs through a coarse argillaceous schistus. At Craig-y-Mwyn, near Pistyll Rhaiadr, to the
north of Llangynog, is an ancient lead-mine; and at
Dylivau, to the west of Llanbrynmair, is a very considerable work of the same kind. Near the site of
an old British smelting-hearth, at Dôl-y-Velin-Blwm,
near Llanvyllin, numerous pieces of lead-ore have
been found, and collected by washers, to the amount
of many tons. The total produce of the lead-mines
in Montgomeryshire, in the year 1847, was 980 tons
of ore, of which the Llangynog mine yielded about
one-tenth. In an angle of the county, at Coedwae,
on the border of Shropshire, coal is obtained from a
few pits capable of producing about twelve tons per
day; it is of a pleasant, though swift burning kind,
its inflammable carbon being combined with more
maltha than bitumen. A small tract of dark-coloured
argillaceous limestone extends in a south-western
direction from its commencement in the Porthywaen
limestone rocks into Powis Castle park; this kind,
however, is not burned. On Plinlimmon mountain
is found granite; also the granitell of Kirwan, composed of quartz and shale; siliceous and schistose
porphyry; and great quantities of pure quartz.
Barytes, united with vitriolic acid, exists at Gallt-yMaen, Llanwyddelan, and Llangynog.
Two important manufactures are carried on in
Montgomeryshire, viz., of flannels and webs, the
pieces of which, displayed on the tenters, form a
singular contrast with the verdure of the vales,
through which is heard the monotonous sound of
looms, fulling-mills, and other machinery. The
flannel manufacture of North Wales is confined to a
district occupying the middle and southern parts of
the county, which lie contiguous to the Severn and
its contributory streams, from Llanidloes to Pool
Quay; and to the Dovey and its contributory brooks,
from Dinas-Mowddwy in Merioneth to Machynlleth.
Formerly the whole manufacture was performed
manually by the farmers and cottagers in their own
houses; but now they are aided by machinery, great
numbers of carding and spinning machines having
been erected on the different streams. There are also
factories on a larger scale at Newtown, Llanidloes,
Machynlleth, Welshpool, &c., some of which employ
100 weavers. The Montgomeryshire flannels are
seven-eighths of a yard wide, and each piece generally from 100 to 160 yards in length; those of a
finer sort are sometimes as much as 242 yards long.
They are three times bleached under the hammers of
the fulling-mill, the first time with urine, the second
with fullers'-earth, and the third with soap: the
fullers'-earth is brought by sea from London to
Chester, and thence by inland navigation. The
nap on these flannels is raised by carding, and
by the adhesion of the several foldings when the
pieces are laid in a particular manner for the purpose: its texture is particularly soft, owing to the
quality of the wool, which renders the flannels well
adapted to be worn next the skin even of the most
delicate invalid. The principal manufacturers are the
wholesale venders of their own flannels: the farmers
and cottagers, who still make them after the old method, were formerly accustomed to take each his own
manufacture to meet the Shropshire and other drapers
at the Welshpool flannel market; but the market at
Newtown has quite superseded that of Welshpool,
a commodious flannel-hall having been erected at
the former place by shares, in which the market is
held, as it was at Welshpool, every alternate Thursday. The Rochdale "stoved white Welsh flannels" are very different from the produce of the
principality, having their warp sized in the weaving,
and being afterwards stoved with brimstone: owing
to their being drawn finer in the thread than the
coarseness of the wool will admit of, they also generally appear threadbare; and the length of each piece
never exceeds forty yards. One of the three districts in which webs, or, as they are called by the
London drapers, "Welsh plains," or "cottons," are
manufactured, is the town of Machynlleth, with the
Vale of the Dovey, in this county: the article is a
coarse kind of thick white woollen cloth, made in
pieces from 90 to 120 yards long, and seven-eighths
of a yard broad, two of these pieces constituting a
web. The webs of this county, as of Merioneth, are
styled "strong cloth," to distinguish them from those
of the Glyn district, near Oswestry, which are termed
"small cloth," because the pieces are about oneeighth of a yard narrower, though of the same length.
The principal exports from Montgomeryshire are,
store cattle and sheep; raw wool; flannels and webs;
ores of lead and copper; oak-bark for tanners; alder
and birch bark for dyers; timber for the navy, and
poles for the South Wales and Shropshire collieries;
slates; grain, flour, and oatmeal; mutton and bacon,
butter, and cheese. The chief imports are, coal,
lime, and limestone; groceries, and other ordinary
shop goods.
The principal rivers are, the Severn, with its
tributaries the Vyrnwy and the Tanat, all of which
descend eastward from the mountain ridge running
across the western part of the county; and the Dovey,
or Dyvi, flowing westward from the same ridge. The
romantic Wye, also, has its source on the southern
side of Plinlimmon, in the county; but, pursuing a
south-eastern course by Llangurig, soon enters Radnorshire. The Severn rises in a powerful stream
from a chalybeate spring on the eastern side of Plinlimmon, at the distance of about a mile from the
source of the Wye; and, as a mountain torrent,
descends eastward towards the town of Llanidloes,
under the name of Havren, traversing the narrow
valley called Glyn Havren. In the early part of its
course it is joined by the streams of the Bâchwy and
Glâslyn, formed by the waters of the numerous
springs dispersed in the surrounding mosses; and
near Llanidloes it forms a junction with the Clywedog. It now loses the violence of its character, and
taking a north-eastern direction, flows through a
broad and pleasant valley, by Newtown, and within
a mile and a half of Montgomery; receiving the
waters of the Miwl at Abermule, and of the Rhiw
at Berriew, or Aber-Rhiw, besides smaller rivulets.
From Berriew it pursues a north-north-eastern course
to Welshpool; at Pool Quay, a little below that town,
it becomes navigable, and afterwards assuming an
eastern direction, it flows onward in a deep bed,
until, being joined from the north-west by the
Vyrnwy, it enters the county of Salop.
The Vyrnwy has its source in two branches rising in
the parting ridge, one in the vicinity of Bwlch-y-Vedwen, near the confines of Merionethshire, that flows
eastward by Llanvair, below which town it suddenly
turns to the north-east, and enters the Vale of Meivod;
and the other near Llanwddyn, that runs eastward till
it meets the former branch at Mathraval. After this
junction it is designated the Vyrnwy, and takes a
north-eastern course until near the northern confines
of the county, when it as suddenly assumes an eastern
course. Then, forming a confluence with the Tanat,
it becomes the north-eastern boundary of the county,
and so continues to its junction with the Severn, first
separating Montgomeryshire from a detached portion of Denbighshire, and afterwards from Salop.
This river is navigable during several of the winter
months as high as Llanymynech; and is particularly
distinguished for the abundance, variety, and excellence of its fish, as also are its tributaries. The principal of these, the Tanat, which has its source in the
Berwyn mountains, towards the northern extremity
of the county, is joined, a little below the village of
Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, by the small river Rhaiadr,
which descends from the same mountainous district
along the confines of Denbighshire, and forms the
grand cataract of Pistyll Rhaiadr. At this junction
the Tanat becomes the northern boundary of the
county, which it separates from Denbigh, until, gradually bending eastward, it reaches the confines of
Shropshire: here, on approaching Llanymynech, it
suddenly turns southward to its confluence with the
Vyrnwy, near Llandisilio, after having, for a short
distance, bounded on the west a detached portion of
Denbighshire. The Dovey, descending from the
foot of Aran Mowddwy in Merionethshire, a mountain of the Berwyn range, flows by the town of
Dinas-Mowddwy into the westernmost part of Montgomeryshire, which it crosses in a rich vale in a
direction from north-east to south-west, passing by
the town of Machynlleth, for a few miles near and
below which it forms the western boundary of the
county. It wholly quits the county on being joined
by a small stream from the heights around Plinlimmon.
The Montgomeryshire canal, which is a continuation of a branch canal extending from the Ellesmere
line to the Llanymynech lime-works, enters the
county from Llanymynech in crossing the Vyrnwy,
by an aqueduct of five arches, each of forty feet
span, and twenty-five feet above the level of the
water in the river, besides a number of smaller flood
arches. Hence it proceeds along the Vale of Severn
to Welshpool, and thence by Berriew and Garthmill
to Newtown, where it terminates. It was formed
under the provisions of an act obtained in 1795; of
a second, passed in 1815; and of a third, in 1821.
Its total length is twenty-four miles; the number of
locks is nineteen, of bridges fifty-five, and of aqueducts eight; and it has two feeders, one from the
Severn, and the other from the Tanat: a branch,
three miles long, extends to the village of Guilsfield.
The total expense of the canal was upwards of
£125,000. The chief traffic upon it consists in the
importation of limestone and coal, and the exportation of timber, grain, and the produce of the dairy.
Strenuous and successful efforts have been made,
during the present century, in the improvement of
the turnpike-roads, to which an extent of nearly 300
miles has been added; and at the same time, since the
opening of the Montgomeryshire canal, the landcarriage of lime, coal, and timber, has been greatly
reduced in the parts adjacent to that line of communication, which have also the advantage of obtaining,
by its means, materials of a more durable nature
than any procured on the spot. The bridges are
numerous, and those in the more cultivated districts
are generally very good ones, but those in the eastern and south-eastern parts of the county are constructed almost wholly of wood, and are frequently
in bad repair. Several of stone have been erected
of late years under the direction of the county surveyor, among which may more particularly be noticed those over the Severn, of three arches each,
situated respectively at Llanidloes, Caer-Sws, and
Newtown; and that over the Vyrnwy at Llanymynech: a handsome iron bridge at Llandinam may
also be mentioned. The road from Worcester to
Montgomery, Welshpool, Dôlgelley, Harlech, and
Carnarvon, enters the county from Bishop's-Castle
in Shropshire, and passes through Montgomery,
Welshpool, and Llanvair, to Mallwyd and DinasMowddwy in Merionethshire; from Mallwyd, a
branch of this proceeds through Cemmes and Machynlleth, to Aberystwith. But a better and more
direct road is that from Bishop's-Castle to Newtown,
thence to Machynlleth, and by Dôlgelley in Merionethshire, into the county of Carnarvon. There are
also roads from Shrewsbury to Montgomery, Welshpool, &c. From Welshpool the road runs by Newtown and Llanidloes to the Devil's Bridge and Aberystwith: at Newtown, a branch proceeds through
Llanwnnog, Carno, and Llanbrynmair, to Machynlleth. A road, also, runs from Welshpool, by Llanvyllin, to Bala in Merionethshire.
Remains of encampments and fortifications decidedly Roman are to be seen at Caer-Sws, the
Gaer near Montgomery, and Mathraval, each being
quadrangular; and some minor relics of the Romans
have been found there. At Cwm-glàn-Avon, near
Llangynog, are the remains of a very ancient building, fourteen yards long and seven broad, called
Cubil, supposed to have been a smelting-furnace,
perhaps of Roman construction: there are several
extensive mining levels of unknown antiquity in the
vicinity, and great quantities of scoria lie adjoining
to it. The Via Devana entered the county from a
station at Castell Collwyn, in Radnorshire, and,
taking its course northward by Caer-Sws, is still
visible beyond the latter place in the parishes of
Aberhavesp, Trêgynon, Llanwyddelan, Llanlligan,
Llanvair, and Llanervul. By Dr. Worthington it
was traced to Street Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, in
the parish of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, on the
northern border of the county; thence it crossed
Rhôs-y-Brithdir to Pen-y-Street, and passed through
Llam-Iwrch to Caer-Vâch, a small Roman camp, in
its further course towards Chester. Another Roman
road that crossed the county entered it from Salop,
near the village of Llandrinio, in the vicinity of
which it is plainly to be seen: at Mediolanum it
crossed the Via Devana, and thence proceeded by
Llangynog and Trûm-y-Sarn into Merionethshire,
towards Segontium, where it terminated. A vicinal
way branched from the Via Occidentalis at Pennal,
near Machynlleth, just beyond the western boundary
of the county, and ran by Caer-Sws; it is visible between Newtown and Welshpool, in a direction towards the great Roman camp, called the Gaer, near
Montgomery. There was also a road from Caer-Sws
north-westward into Merioneth.
The line of demarcation raised by Offa, King of
Mercia, between his dominions and those of the
Welsh, is still called by the English "Offa's Dyke,"
and by the Welsh Clawdd Offa, and may be traced
along nearly the whole of its course through the
county. It enters it from the south, at Pwll-y-Piod,
on the road between Bishop's-Castle and Newtown,
and thence proceeds near Mellington Hall, by
Brompton mill and Lymore Park, near Montgomery,
and by Forden Heath, Nant-Cribba, Leighton Hall,
and Buttington church. Here it is lost for five miles,
the channel of the Severn probably serving for that
space as a continuation of this famous boundary,
which again appears just below the influx of the small
stream of Bele into the Severn, on the northern
side of the latter river; whence it is continued,
by the churches of Llandisilio and Llanymynech, to
the edge of the vast precipitous limestone rock in
the latter parish, and thence across the north-western
part of Salop into Denbighshire. It consists of
a vast ditch and rampart, the latter being on the
east side. In its vicinity, near Mellington Hall, is
an encampment named Gaer-Ddin; at Brompton
mill, a mount; and at Nant-Cribba, another ancient
fortification.
On the summit of a high mountain, near the village
of Llandinam, is a strong British camp; and various
intrenchments, supposed to have had some relation
to the castle of Mathraval, the seat of the Princes
of Powys, the foundations of which may yet be traced,
lie scattered in the vicinity of Meivod. There is also
a British camp called Gardden, of a circular form, on
a hill near Llanvair; and another British camp near
Llanervul: the remains of a third may be seen at
Castle-Caer-Eineon. Near Cann Office, on the road
between Llanvair and Mallwyd, is a tumulus seventy
yards in circumference. On each of the two summits
of Plinlimmon is a carnedd, or large heap of stones:
other monuments of the same kind are very numerous
in the parishes of Llanervul and Llangadvan, where
the largest are from thirty to sixty yards in circumference. On a hill styled Pencoed, in the last-mentioned parish, are some small hollows and hillocks,
thought to be places of interment of the Britons.
At the period of the Reformation there were, at
Llanlligan a Cistercian nunnery, and at Ystrad
Marchell, or Strata Marcella, a Cistercian abbey.
The most remarkable specimens of ecclesiastical
architecture in the county are to be seen in the
parish churches of Montgomery, Llanidloes, and
Llanwnnog. The castles of Powys and Montgomery, the latter of which is in ruins, are striking specimens of the fortifications raised by the AngloNormans to secure their conquests from the native
Welsh; there are also remains of that of Dôlvorwyn,
near Newtown. Powys, or Powis, Castle is the
venerable mansion of the Earl of Powis, and, being
built of red calcareous stone quarried out of the adjoining park, is called by the Welsh Castell Côch, or
the "red castle." Among residences of a more
modern date, those most worthy of notice are the following, alphabetically arranged: Aberiarth Hall, near
Machynlleth; Black Hall, near Newtown; BôdHeilyn; Bôdvâch; Broadway, near Montgomery;
Bronhyddon, and Brynaber, near Llanvyllin; Bryn
Glâs, near Llanvair; Bryngwyn; Brynllywarch, near
Newtown; Caerhowel, near Montgomery; Crosswood,
and Cyvronydd, near Welshpool; Dôlerw, near
Newtown; Dôl-llys, near Llanidloes; Dôlvorgan,
and Dôlvorwyn Hall, near Newtown; Dyserth, and
Garth, near Welshpool; Upper Garthmyl; Lower
Garthmyl; Glàndulas, and Glândwr, near Llanidloes; Glàn Severn, near Welshpool; Glâsgoed, near
Llanvyllin; Glàn Havren, near Newtown; Glyn
Severn, near Llanidloes; Greenfields, near Machynlleth; Gregynog, and The Gro, near Newtown; Gunley, near Montgomery; Leighton Hall, and Llanerchydôl, near Welshpool; Llwydiarth Hall, and Llwyn,
near Llanvyllin; Lymore Park, near Montgomery;
Maesmawr, and Maes Vron, near Welshpool; Mellington Hall, near Montgomery; Nant-Cribba, near
Welshpool; Newtown Hall, near Newtown; Penbryn, near Montgomery; Pennant, near Berriew;
Pentre Nant, near Montgomery; Pen-y-Lan, at
Meivod; Rhiwport, at Berriew; Trawscoed, and
Trelydan Hall, near the town of Welshpool; Vaynor
Park, at Berriew; and Vronvelen, near the town of
Machynlleth.
In those parts of Montgomeryshire where the hills
consist almost wholly of shale, the houses of the
gentry were formerly built of massive timber, and are
now most commonly of brick made from clay found
in the valleys. The ordinary houses in such districts
are generally of timber, wattle or lath, and plaster;
and the roofs chiefly slated, though sometimes of
shingles, or oak split and cut into the form of slates.
There are many farmhouses and offices upon new and
improved constructions. The cottages in the greater
part of the county have a very wretched appearance. On the schistose hills, and in the vicinity,
where there is an abundance of flattish stones, the
fences are frequently dry stone walls: hawthorn
sets, for hedges, are grown in great quantities by
the nurserymen. The farmers in the low lands
excel in their family fare; but in the mountainous
districts the bread has generally a large proportion of
rye or barley, and cakes made wholly from oatmeal are much used. Servants hired by the year
generally commence their term of service on the 1st
of May.
There are several springs whose waters contain a
large proportion of hepatic air: two of these are in
the parish of Meivod, where also is a spring extremely limpid, the waters of which have been
found efficacious in the cure of scrofulous and other
ulcers. Two saline and sulphureous springs have
been discovered in the parish of Llanvair, which are
much frequented, many persons having derived considerable benefit from drinking the waters. Near
the church of Llanervul is a well called Fynnon
Ervul, famous for its medicinal virtues; and one adjoining the church of Garth-Beibio, named Fynnon
Dydecho, is constructed so as to form a cold bath, its
waters being reputed to have some efficacy in the
cure of rheumatic affections. The small river Rhaiadr, about four miles from the village of Llanrhaiadr,
on the northern border of the county, after flowing
gently down a small declivity, precipitates itself over
a perpendicular rock upwards of 200 feet in height,
and then forms a second cataract as its raging waters
fall into a small natural basin beneath. This grand
cascade is termed Pistyll Rhaiadr.