CHAPTER XXIV - Southern Kensington in Retrospect
This is the last of three volumes of the Survey of London,
XXXVIII, XLI and XLII, which describe the part of the ancient
parish (and subsequently metropolitan borough) of Kensington lying to the south of Kensington High Street and
Kensington Road. Volume XXXVII, which describes the
remaining, northern half of the parish, contains a General
Introduction summarizing some of the principal themes
to emerge from the study of that area, and it seems
appropriate to conclude this volume with a similar summary for southern Kensington, including some reflections
on Kensington as a whole.
A stroll of an hour or so through the streets of Kensington should be sufficient to convince even the most casual
observer that the district as it appears today is preeminently and overwhelmingly a Victorian creation. In
1801 its population numbered 8,556, significantly less than
the population of the very much smaller parish of Chelsea
to the south. Even in 1841, when Victoria had been on
the throne for four years, and when the population of Kensington had increased threefold, it was still lower than that
of Chelsea. Between 1841 and 1881, however, while Chelsea's population rose by some 75 per cent, Kensington's
increased sixfold (from 26,834 to 163,151), a rate of
increase exceeded among London's civil parishes only in
Battersea and Stoke Newington, both of which had very
small populations in 1841. Of the four decades between
1841 and 1881, by far the greatest rate of expansion in
Kensington occurred in 1861–71. (ref. 1)
Early settlement
A village had existed in Kensington from mediaeval times
in the vicintity of the parish church, and other areas of
early settlement included Kensington Gravel Pits (at the
present-day Notting Hill Gate), Gore Lane on the border
of Kensington and Westminster, the hamlet of Brompton
or Old Brompton near the eastern end of Old Brompton
Road, and, from at least the early seventeenth century,
Little Chelsea in Fulham Road. Apart from a number of
detached houses of various sizes, often with spacious
grounds, especially an important series of large Jacobean
mansions to the north of the highway to Hammersmith
and Brentford (now Kensington High Street), and the
establishment of some notable inns and taverns along that
High Road, there was very little development beyond these
village nuclei until the end of the seventeenth century. In
1685 a bold attempt to create a square on the West End
model on the edge of the ancient village predictably met
with initial failure, but the fortuitous decision of William
III in 1689 to buy the house now known as Kensington
Palace gave Kensington Square some belated and muchneeded cachet, and led to a period of expansion, chiefly
along the High Street, where sporadic housing gave way
to continuous development of the frontage in the years
1690–1740.
By the fifth decade of the eighteenth century, however,
there were signs that this phase of house-building inspired
in part by the nearby presence of the court was petering
out, and even in the easternmost part of the parish—the
long, thin extension towards Knightsbridge—no major
building schemes were initiated before the 1760s. Then,
at a time when there was a building boom in the metropolis
as a whole, characteristic 'ribbon' developments of terraced housing began to spread along Brompton Road, and,
with something of a hiatus in the slump years of the 1770s,
continued to the end of the century. This was also a period
of building activity in Little Chelsea, and terraced housing
was erected in Earl's Court Road and along Kensington
High Street, where the long Phillimore Place on the north
side was begun in 1788.
Market gardens and nurseries
Nevertheless, Thomas Milne's map showing land use in
the vicinity of London, (ref. 2) which was published in 1800,
illustrates graphically the rural nature of Kensington at
that time. It also shows how the land area in the south
of the parish was almost entirely occupied by market
gardens and nurseries, in contrast to the broad acres to
the north of the High Street where meadowland and
pasture predominated and there was scarcely any garden
ground to be seen. The market gardens of southern Kensington stretched from Brompton in the east to Earl's
Court in the west, where the large holding of the Hutchins
family, some 200 acres or more in extent, is correctly
shown on Milne's map as in mixed arable and market
garden use, the form of crop rotation involved being actually specified in leases of the farm. (ref. 3) Milne's map shows
that there was a broad corridor of market gardens on each
side of the Thames, stretching from the edge of the builtup area as far west as Isleworth, but, apart from the Neat
Houses of modern-day Pimlico, those in Kensington were
the most conveniently placed to supply the large areas of
consumption in the West End.
As important as, if not more important than, the market
gardens of Kensington were the numerous nurseries which
were concentrated in the centre of the southern half of
the parish. (ref. 4) Many of these were of wide fame, including
possibly the earliest, the Brompton Park Nursery of
London and Wise, which had been founded in 1681 and
encompassed over 100 acres at its greatest extent. The
Kensington Nursery of Robert Furber followed a little
later, and other notable nurserymen who had establishments in the parish included Richard Selwood, James
Poupart, William Curtis, whose Brompton Botanic
Garden stood from 1789 to 1808 on the site now occupied
by Neville Terrace and Neville Street, and Henry Shailer
and Daniel Grimwood, both known for advances in the
propagation of the rose. William Cobbett had a seed farm
near Kensington High Street in the 1820s, and in the same
period Thomas Gibbs's nursery in Brompton was famous
for the production of improved crop seed and for other
experiments, such as the erection of a cottage built of pisé
at the invitation of the Board of Agriculture.
The tithe apportionment survey of 1843 provides an
even more comprehensive analysis of land use in the parish
than Milne's map and gives the acreage of each parcel of
land. (ref. 5) From this it is possible to calculate that 57 per cent
of southern Kensington was then still under cultivation,
and that four-fifths of this area was occupied by market
gardens, nurseries and orchards. In the 1840s the heavy
volume of traffic on the thoroughfares of the district was
said to be principally the result of 'the carriage of produce
from market-gardens and heavy return loads of manure'. (ref. 6)
By contrast, in northern Kensington, where 85 per cent
of the area was still undeveloped, 90 per cent of the land
still devoted to agricultural use was meadow or pasture.
Building development in the nineteenth century
Some 43 per cent of the land in southern Kensington was,
however, no longer cultivated by the 1840s (although this
figure includes the often large-sized parks, paddocks and
grounds belonging to numerous detached villas and
mansions), and significant building developments had
taken place since the beginning of the nineteenth century.
In the first decade of the century, when a substantial
amount of building was taking place in Bloomsbury and
other areas of north London, there was very little activity
in this part of Kensington. Seymour Walk in Little Chelsea, the somewhat desultory continuation of building in
and around Brompton Road, the modest beginnings of
development in the area now known as Earl's Court Village
and some building along the south side of the High Street
represented virtually the sum total of the urban advance
during that period. A more ambitious scheme to build on
eleven acres of the Edwardes estate on the south side of
the High Road at its western end, which was set in train
in 1811, foundered as conditions for house-building
turned sour in the later stages of the Napoleonic Wars.
Edwardes Square and its adjacent terraces eventually took
some fifteen years to complete.
From about 1817 the economic climate became very
much more favourable to building, and the subsequent
boom, peaking in 1825, was a national phenomenon which
affected both northern and southern Kensington as it did
virtually every area poised for urban expansion. Brompton
Square, begun in 1821, Alexander Square, in 1826, the
compact Ware estate in the vicinity of Selwood Terrace
and Place, parts of Earl's Court Village, the Clareville
Grove district, and areas to both east and west of the north
end of Earl's Court Road, all date from these years. In
the far-flung Edwardes estate, where the impecunious
Baron Kensington was only too eager to adopt any course
of action which might enhance his income, three major
developments were inaugurated in 1822–3, in Pembroke
Square, Warwick Square (the northern end of Warwick
Gardens) and Kensington Crescent, but all to a greater
or lesser degree came to grief as boom gave way to slump.
The 1830s were, in contrast, an almost universally
quiescent decade, the only notable exceptions in southern
Kensington being the successful development of Pelham
Crescent and Place and parts of the Inderwick estate. On
the Alexander estate, where a sizeable tract of land had
become available in 1832 with the sudden bankruptcy of
the nurserymen Harrison and Bristow, there seems to have
been a conscious decision to delay development.
The 1840s produced a perceptible quickening of pace.
Some 150 houses were built in and around Thurloe Square
on the Alexander estate, Egerton Crescent and Terrace
on the Smith's Charity estate were begun in 1843, and
in the following year South Kensington's most formidable
builder and developer, (Sir) Charles James Freake, entered
into the first of seven building agreements to lay out streets
and squares on the same estate. Parts of the Day estate,
in Drayton Gardens and Hereford Square, the Vallotton
estate, and the Billings area were built up at this time,
and other smaller-scale developments date from these
years. Despite a severe hiccup following a financial crisis
in April 1847, the transformation of a rural parish into
a city suburb was well under way before the siting of the
Great Exhibition of 1851 in Hyde Park and the subsequent
purchase by the Exhibition Commissioners of a substantial
tract of land in Kensington provided powerful stimuli to
further growth.
The graph on page 397 illustrates the provision of
houses and other buildings for the expanding population
of Kensington during the period from 1846 to 1885 (when
reasonably accurate figures for the annual rate of building
can be obtained from the district surveyors' returns (ref. 7) ). It
shows that throughout the years 1862–78 over 200 new
buildings (the vast majority of them dwelling houses) were
erected each year in southern Kensington, but that there
were pronounced fluctuations above this level with the
greatest intensity of building in 1866–8 and 1874–6. There
was, however, nothing in southern Kensington to compare
with the dramatic peak of activity in northern Kensington
in 1867–8, or, indeed, with the lower peak there in the
early 1850s. Conversely the peak of the mid 1870s in the
south of the parish was reflected only modestly and then
a little later in the north. In charting more closely the progress of building during this period of the suburb's greatest
growth, those factors which may have contributed to its
erratic course can also be examined.

Number of buildings erected annually in southern and northern Kensington, 1846–85, and
London as a whole, 1858–85 (ref. 7)
There is no evidence that the size of estates or the type
of tenure under which land was held had much effect on
the pattern of development. In contrast to northern Kensington, where two-thirds of the land belonged to only four
owners, three of whose estates were each over 200 acres
in extent, a much more varied pattern of ownership
prevailed in the south. The largest holding in the whole
of Kensington in 1800 was the 250 or so acres which
belonged to the Edwardes family, but otherwise only the
Gunter 'estate' covered more than 100 acres, and that was
acquired piecemeal, mostly in the course of the nineteenth
century. The Harrington-Villars estate, which before
partition amounted to about 87 acres, the Smith's Charity
estate covering some 70 acres in Kensington, and the Alexander estate, 54 acres divided into six separate plots of
land, were the only other sizeable holdings. Small, compact units of landownership, especially if they had frontages to existing roads, were often thought to be ideally
suited for development, and there is some evidence of the
early utilization of such plots in southern Kensington. The
four acres purchased by Samuel Ware in 1823 and laid
out shortly afterwards as Selwood Terrace, Selwood Place
and Elm Place, now form a distinctive enclave of lateGeorgian housing, surrounded by very much later housing
types. The Clareville Grove area and both parts of the
small Day estate to north and south of Old Brompton Road
were made available to speculative builders at an earlier
date than much of the surrounding land, but conversely
there were small units of ownership which seemed
eminently suitable for development, like the conveniently
placed Eagle Lodge estate (the site of Roland Gardens),
which were not, in fact, built over until a late date.
Sometimes particular factors of tenure were inhibiting.
Estates where the title was divided between two or more
owners presented especial problems, and the 1851 Commissioners thought it fortunate that the Harrington-Villars
estate had been in joint ownership as this had delayed
development, even if only for a few years (the Court of
Chancery having been asked in 1846 to partition the estate
and the division having taken place four years later). Building on the southern frontage of Kensington High Street
between the Adam and Eve tavern and Earl's Court Road
was almost certainly delayed by complexities of ownership
in which twenty people had some claim to the land. The
site of De Vere Gardens was presumably also developed
at a late date because the title to the land had descended
to several members of the Grimwood family, some of
whom were living in South America. An interim use of
the land here was as a hippodrome for equestrian displays,
and such adaptation of a site for recreational use just prior
to its speculative development was not unique to this plot.
A different kind of problem faced the third Lord Kensington when he succeeded to the life-tenancy of the Edwardes
estate in 1852, for his late father's financial affairs were
in such a disordered state that the property was in effect
held 'in Chancery' until 1860, and this may have been one
of the reasons why very little building took place on this
large estate in the 1850s.
The existence of areas of copyhold land appears to have
placed no bar on development whatsoever in Kensington.
The southern half of the parish had once formed the manor
of Earl's Court, but much of the land here was enfranchised in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and
the small pieces of copyhold remaining in the nineteenth
century were usually quickly enfranchised when building
development, which required the granting of long leases,
was actually under way (like the Ware estate in 1825) or
imminent (like the site of Hereford Square in 1835, or the
Broadwood estate in 1858). The act of enfranchisement
was frequently an indication that developments were in
contemplation even if they were sometimes delayed for
several years. The second Lord Kensington, who became
lord of the manor in 1801, was always ready to supplement
his income by granting enfranchisements, and this policy
was naturally followed by the solicitors to whom he had
to hand over this function in 1842 and who were said subsequently to be 'acting in the capacity of Lords of the said
Manor'. (ref. 8)
The intensive and productive use of the land for horticulture in southern Kensington may have delayed the
development of some areas and thereby contributed to the
peak of building activity in the mid 1870s which was not
replicated in northern Kensington, but the evidence is not
conclusive. There are instances of land which had formed
part of a builder's 'take' but for various reasons not initially
used for house-building being subsequently used for
market gardening, and the frequent long delays, sometimes of forty years and upwards, before the renewal of
building activity after the first development had faltered,
may be related to this profitable alternative use. Some sizeable holdings, the Gunter estate north of Old Brompton
Road, the Alexander estate west of Gloucester Road and
the Broadwood estate (now Cornwall Gardens), remained
in horticultural use into the 1860s, and Earl's Court Farm,
the last area of any great extent to be developed, until the
1870s. The Gunters, indeed, managed some of their
market gardens themselves and were renowned for the efficiency with which they did so. Rents for market garden
ground in the vicinity of London were said to be high, (ref. 9)
and the £28 per annum per acre realized on the large
Harrington-Villars estate in the mid 1840s would seem to
bear this out. Ground rents from building developments,
usually not realizable in full for some years and then fixed
for long terms, would have to be significantly higher to
justify the attendant risks. In contrast, however, the 72
acres remaining of Earl's Court Farm further to the west
was let on a short lease in 1845 at only £5 per annum per
acre, but with the proviso that the ground landlord could
take back any amount of land for building purposes, paying due compensation for the crops and dressings on the
ground. (ref. 3) In fact the farm lasted, with some encroachments, for thirty more years, but whether the rent was
raised substantially as it became increasingly hemmed-in
by new housing is not known.
We have already seen how the phasing of development
in Kensington before the 1840s corresponded very closely
with the metropolitan building cycle. The causes of this
by now very well-documented phenomenon (ref. 10) are many
and complex, but among them are the interaction between
supply and demand, a process which is hardly more easily
ascertainable now than it was to builders at the time, and,
perhaps more importantly, the behaviour of the imperfect
and frequently erratic mechanism of the credit system on
which builders had to rely. What does seem clear is that
at least up to the beginning of the period of large-scale
urban growth in the parish the metropolitan-wide factors
producing fluctuations in house-building operated just as
forcefully in the particular area of southern Kensington
(and, for that matter, in northern Kensington as well).
Whether there is the same close correlation between the
London-wide pattern of building activity and local fluctuations during the years of a high overall level of housebuilding in Kensington, or whether purely local factors
came to assume an increasing importance, remains to be
examined.
The general upturn in building activity in the 1840s and
its ramifications in southern Kensington have already been
noted. The credit crisis which occurred in April 1847 and
which produced a severe but temporary setback in the
metropolis as a whole, however, had effects that were little
short of catastrophic in this area. As early as May 1847,
Thomas Donaldson, the district surveyor of South Kensington, referred in his official return to 'the depression
now existing in building operations. There is very little
work going on and the fees due for work completed very
difficult to realise. The returns for some time will be less
than they are at present.' (ref. 11) The graph on page 397 shows
the fall in the number of buildings completed in 1847–8;
several major builders went bankrupt in these years and
almost all developments which were in progress at the time
suffered some interruption.
The revival of the early 1850s was very muted in
southern Kensington (in contrast to the north of the parish
where building speculation took on some of the characteristics of a mania). Nevertheless land values were rising
substantially, at least in the east of the area, where the
land dealings of the 1851 Commissioners provided a
powerful local determinant. The purchase in 1852 of three
and a half acres for the site of the London Oratory at a
price based on a developmental value of £150 per annum
per acre was cited at the time as an example of such rising
values. (Eight years earlier Freake had agreed to provide
a ground rent of about £50 per acre for some eight acres
of the Smith's Charity estate, and a little later builders
on the Day estate were paying a remarkably low £32 to
£36 per acre, but instances of much higher ground rents
for small plots of ground could be cited.) The Commissioners' own land purchases (of much larger holdings)
tended to be at the rate of about £100 per annum per acre.
In these years of the early 1850s building on the Smith's
Charity estate in the area of Onslow Square was proceeding apace, and new developments were set in train in Kensington Gate, in the Abingdon and Scarsdale Villas area,
on the Brompton Hospital estate, and the Gunter estate
in The Boltons and surrounding streets. Perhaps because
the overall effect, however, was not of a steep rise in
activity, the subsequent downturn of the later 1850s does
not appear to have been as sharply felt in the south as in
the north of parish. Nevertheless in 1856 the surveyor of
the Brompton Hospital estate drew attention to 'the
unfavourable state of the money market' which was creating 'unforeseen difficulties' for the developer, (ref. 12) and in
the westerly Abingdon and Scarsdale Villas area very little
building took place in the years 1857–61 despite the
apparent success of the houses already built in attracting
tenants.
In 1855 the long-anticipated development of Queen's
Gate and adjacent streets began (though not without its
own attendant difficulties at the end of the 1850s when
William Jackson, the first builder to strike sod there, very
nearly went bankrupt), and over the next thirty years some
670 houses and 480 coach-houses and stables were erected
in the district centred on Queen's Gate and Cromwell
Road. In size and type the grand terraces of the area provided a yardstick by which builders could measure their
attempts to provide similar, though in varying degrees less
ambitious, products on nearby estates.
In London as a whole the level of building rose steadily
from a trough in 1857 to a peak in 1868, and both southern
and northern Kensington shared a similar if not so smooth
rise to peaks respectively in 1867 and 1868. Building in
Kensington throughout this period formed a very important constituent part of the metropolitan-wide building
boom, accounting in 1867 and 1868 for ten per cent of
all buildings being erected throughout London. In the
south of the parish building was in progress from Palace
Gate, Prince of Wales Terrace and Queen's Gate in the
east to the edge of the canal, and later railway, which
marked its western boundary. Major new developments
were begun in Onslow Gardens, in Cornwall Gardens, on
the Gunters' 60 acres to the north of Old Brompton Road,
and pre-eminently on the same family's lands to the south
of that road, where the builders Corbett and McClymont
were covering their 'Redcliffe Estate' with houses at a prodigious rate. Their activities reached a climax in the years
1866–9, when leases of no fewer than 524 house-sites were
granted to them or their nominees, 156 of them in the peak
year of 1867.
Building on the Redcliffe Estate continued, at a lesser
level of intensity, well into the 1870s, and other developments begun in the 1860s or even earlier spanned the
decades. In the 1870s house-building also began on the
20 acres of the Alexander estate to the west of Gloucester
Road, in De Vere Gardens and in Roland Gardens on the
former Eagle Lodge estate. Above all, however, it was the
final surrender of the fertile market gardens of Earl's Court
to the advance of brick and stucco which led in southern
Kensington to the maintenance of a high level of building
activity until the late 1870s. Over 1,200 houses and other
buildings were erected on the Edwardes estate between
1867 and 1892, the vast bulk of them in the early and mid
1870s.
The peak of building activity in southern Kensington
in 1875 was, indeed, higher than that of 1867, and the rise
there from 1873 to 1875 corresponds with a similar upturn
in metropolitan house-building from a trough in the early
1870s. In northern Kensington, however, supply had
apparently outstripped demand to such an extent during
the vast surge of the mid 1860s that the conditions for
a new rise in the mid 1870s were not propitious. (Although
it might be noted that just over the border from Kensington, in the part of Kensal Green which was later absorbed
into the metropolitan borough of Paddington, many
houses were built in the 1870s on the Queen's Park estate.)
Even in the south, the convergence of local and
metropolitan building fluctuations came to an abrupt end
after 1875, as the cycle took a sharp downward turn in
Kensington while it continued to rise to a new peak in
1880 in London as a whole.
There were warning signs that the fall from the peak
of 1875 in southern Kensington might be particularly steep,
but these went largely unheeded until the denouement
came in dramatic fashion in 1878. In May of that year
the house-building empire of Corbett and McClymont
collapsed when they were declared bankrupt with joint
liabilities of £1,300,000. This was a cataclysmic event, the
reverberations of which were felt for many years.
There are numerous examples of the parlous state of
the housing market in the area in the late 1870s. William
Douglas, who was also declared bankrupt later, dated a
decline in the value of his property from 1878, and in
November of that year the solicitors of the builder Thomas
Hussey declared that 'there are at the present moment
acres of large mansions at South Kensington empty but
finished. Two of every three of the builders have failed
or are on the verge of it.' (ref. 13) William Corbett in 1879 spoke
of 'the most terrible depression of property which has happened, not only on our Estate, but also in the neighbourhood'. (ref. 14) At the time of the census of 1881 a large number
of recently built houses in Earl's Court were unoccupied,
and in 1884 ten out of sixteen houses erected in Cromwell
Road in 1879–82 were empty. Some projected building
schemes were delayed during these difficult years. In
Nevern Square, the layout was approved in 1877 but work
did not begin until 1880, and on the Day estate development had been mooted in 1876 but did not take place until
1881.
The reasons why the bottom dropped out of the market
for new houses in southern Kensington in the late 1870s
are still unclear. In May 1878, shortly after the bankruptcy
of Corbett and McClymont, both the Building News and
the Estates Gazette spoke of overbuilding. (ref. 15) That there had
indeed been over-provision of the large or largish brickand-stucco terraced houses with which the district by then
abounded, built within fairly narrow parameters in respect
of size, plan and amenities for a middle- and uppermiddle-class market which was more limited than builders
and developers were prepared to admit, cannot be
doubted. Yet over-supply, in and of itself, is clearly insufficient to account for the whole phenomenon; there must
also have been a substantial falling-off in demand. The
typical southern Kensington house apparently no longer
satisfied the aspirations of those for whom it had been
abundantly suitable only a few years previously, and it is
not easy to conclude why this was so.
The sudden and dramatic shift in architectural styles
in the early 1880s, which will be described later, suggests
that there was a growing disenchantment with at least the
outward appearance of the old house-type, but the switch
also savours strongly of a rather desperate attempt on the
part of the builder to brighten up his wares in a buyer's
market. Nor was the new look conspicuously more successful than the old.
Perhaps more crucially, there may have been a selfdestructive element in the last, great push of development
in southern Kensington. As the final vestiges of green
fields disappeared under roads and houses, so with them
went the remnants of the idea of Kensington as a verdant
suburb. The housing of the 1870s for the most part adopted a strongly urbanized, terraced form, and the district
increasingly came to take on more of the characteristics
of the urban core of the metropolis. Those with suburban
aspirations henceforth tended to seek their fulfilment
elsewhere, aided by the improved transport facilities which
will also be discussed below, leaving Kensington to people
who needed, or wanted, to live in a predominantly urban
environment. Within a very short time that would increasingly come to mean the flat-dweller.
The whole process naturally took some little time to
work through, and as indicated in the graph on page 397,
a modest recovery in house-building took place in the
1880s. The houses built then, however, were generally of
a different type and sometimes, but not invariably, smaller
in size than those of the three previous decades. Even the
redoubtable Sir Charles Freake, who throughout his long
career had ridden the switchback of the building cycle with
masterly aplomb, built smaller houses in the new red-brick
manner towards the end of his life. His successors on the
Smith's Charity estate, C. A. Daw and Son, had to seek
permission from the charity's trustees to build smaller
houses in Evelyn Gardens than had been stipulated in
Freake's building agreement. Other areas of housebuilding in these years, besides those mentioned above,
were Philbeach Gardens (where the seemingly successful
prosecution of the first stages of development in the late
1870s may have been an exception to the general malaise),
the various 'Gardens' of the Gunter estate and contiguous
parts of the Alexander estate, Egerton Gardens, the
southern part of Roland Gardens, and areas to the south
of Kensington High Street, including Kensington Court,
where a rather special development began in 1883.
The smaller houses built in these years, such as those
of Evelyn Gardens, or the distinctive group on the south
side of Earl's Court Square, were generally more easily
disposed of than the larger ones in streets like Collingham
Gardens. By the end of the 1880s, however, the demand
for houses of all kinds had diminished and Kensingtonians
were wanting to live in flats. This tendency was doubtless
welcomed and perhaps positively fostered by builders for
whom the erection of high mansion blocks represented a
more profitable use of land that was becoming increasingly
expensive as its availability shrank (from £150 to £200
per annum per acre on the Edwardes estate in the early
1870s, to £250 in Nevern Square, £300 in Brechin Place
and Rosary Gardens, £400 in Egerton Gardens, and a
capital sum equivalent to £1,000 per annum in Kensington
Court, where, however, the financial arrangements were
extremely complex).
An astute observer, writing in 1893, described 'the
modern district of South Kensington, with its palatialmansions, somewhat out of fashion and deserted, but
which sprang up at a season of "inflation" when everyone
was, or fancied he was, growing rich. Now it is found that
small but roomy houses are "your only wear".'He added
that 'the system of living in "flats" has become the rage,'
and noted that 'since the adoption of "lifts", it has been
found that there is no objection to living in the most aerial
stories of a house, hence buildings on even a small plot
of ground are reared to enormous heights and the accommodation is doubled and even quadrupled'. (ref. 16)
Flat building in the area began, at least in conception,
with Albert Hall Mansions on the 1851 Commissioners'
estate, where flats had been favoured by the Commissioners' surveyor in 1875, rejected by the builder in favour
of houses in 1876, but reinstated by him later in that year.
Building here did not, however, begin until 1880, and by
that time large old-fashioned houses in De Vere Gardens,
which had proved distinctly unsuccessful, were being converted into flats, and a purpose-built block was also erected
in the same street in 1880. Further west, seven houses in
Cromwell Road built in 1882–4 by Thomas Hussey to
Norman Shaw's designs (the same combination as at
Albert Hall Mansions) were converted in 1886 into a block
of twelve flats with only a modicum of internal replanning.
Some of the earliest examples of high-class flats in Palace
Gate or Wynnstay Gardens of the early 1880s had a little
of the external appearance of houses, but within a short
time mansion blocks were acquiring the pronounced horizontal emphasis which gave expression to their purpose.
Most blocks had only two, good-sized, flats per floor, and
some of the smaller ones, like Herbert Court Mansions
in Earl's Court Square, only one. By the end of the
1880s the provision of an 'American Elevator' was a
selling-point. (ref. 17)
From about 1890 the decline in the demand for the typical South Kensington house produced a sharp fall in prices
and rents which lasted until after the war of 1914–18.
Houses in the far west of the parish, which seem to have
borne the brunt of unpopularity, halved in value or worse,
but elsewhere in the district other instances of a steep fall
in the market can be found. During the Edwardian period
there was a depression in property values throughout
London, but there is no doubt that the slump in southern
Kensington began earlier and was particularly severe. At
this point the long, slow and sometimes painful transmutation of Kensington's large single-family homes into flats,
boarding-houses and hotels, already spasmodically evident
in the 1880s, began in earnest. The partial reversal of this
tendency in recent years as the Kensington house has
returned to favour for single-family occupation by the
wealthy has chiefly affected those houses that are of moderate or manageable size.
The effect of the railways on building development
The one major new factor affecting the progress of building in Kensington from the 1860s was the construction
of a network of railways across the parish. In the earlyVictorian period the pattern and pace of London's inner
suburban growth were not in general radically affected by
railway-building, and this was of course true for Kensington. Early developments there had been chiefly conditioned by the presence of three major east-west roads, and
the only other means of transport, the Kensington Canal,
never stimulated building on the Edwardes estate on the
scale that had been hoped. The canal was eventually replaced by the West London Extension Railway, and the
opening of the latter's station at West Brompton in 1866
may have influenced the layout of Eardley Crescent and
Kempsford Gardens later in that decade. But its effect was
minimal compared with that of the Metropolitan and
Metropolitan District Railways, which began operating
from 1868 onwards. In the meantime, in northern Kensington, the Hammersmith and City Railway (later a
branch of the Metropolitan), which had been opened
across the fields of Notting Dale in 1864, had played a
major part in stimulating the enormous building boom
there.
Kensington differed from other areas on the path of the
Metropolitan and District lines, Bayswater excepted, in
being far from fully developed. While their construction
was planned and carried out in 1864–8, much housebuilding was proceeding in the south of the parish, as we
have already seen. To that extent, the houses built in these
years were a lure to the railways rather than the reverse.
Yet for the greater part of their length the new lines crossing southern Kensington and Earl's Court ran through
fields, whence local traffic of substance could not be expected. The District's initial lines around Earl's Court, in particular, were positively rustic in their remoteness. For
these reasons, recollected the Railway Times, 'except over
that portion of the line common to both undertakings, the
"District" was for a long time virtually without traffic'. (ref. 18)
Nevertheless the building of these lines led to major
changes in the relation between transport and development in suburbs such as Kensington, as the same authority
attested in 1877, when the District was opening up its
extension to Hammersmith and beyond. By then the company's finances, under the tutelage of J. S. Forbes, had
vastly improved. 'Under his auspices the District has
satisfactorily solved the problem of creating traffic where
apparently none of the materials for it existed, and by the
presence of facilities creating a population to use them.
The old theory was let the demand precede the supply.
"First let houses be built and inhabited and then make
your railway." To run out a line into the market and nursery grounds of Brompton and Fulham fields was, when
the project was first mooted of extending the Metropolitan
District in that direction, pronounced to be little short of
insanity, and the most effectual means of postponing
indefinitely the possibility of dividend upon the preference
as well as the open stocks. But the result has been… to
convert the orchards and nursery-grounds of Brompton
into South Kensington, with its numerous squares,crescents, and terraces of mansions, and the Fulham
market-grounds into West Kensington, which is fast being
covered with residences of the same aristocratic order, and
securing for the railway which virtually brought them
there, a most valuable, profitable, and permanent class of
traffic.' (ref. 19)
These claims, allowing for some hyperbole, can be verified by the history of development. In 1869, less than a
year after the first Metropolitan and District trains began
running through Kensington, Lord Kensington made
agreements for opening up a large swathe of his land
around Cromwell Road for house-building, and after the
opening of Earl's Court Station in 1871 the remaining
undeveloped parts of his estate were quickly leased for
building. H. B. Alexander, who had been much disgruntled at having to sacrifice land for two stations, was
nevertheless quick to reap the benefit from Gloucester
Road Station's siting by releasing its immediate
neighbourhood for development from 1870. The Gunter
brothers did likewise with their Earl's Court properties.
In 1866, when railway construction was in full spate, these
major landlords had also agreed together to prolong Cromwell Road as a thoroughfare linking the three estates. The
railways therefore acted as a spur to enterprise in Kensington, not only by inducing speculators to build, but also
by jolting freeholders into deciding development policies
and layouts and joining hands to make the best of the
revised physical pattern which the lines created.
In the 1870s the railways materially speeded up the subjection of southern Kensington's remaining acres to bricks
and mortar. Henceforward, estate agents' particulars put
proximity to stations high among the attractions of living
in this quarter of town, and the district became increasingly defined as a suburb for the better-off commuter. At
the same time, these improvements ushered in a slow
decline in Kensington's social standing. For this, the
physical characteristics of the railways themselves were
partly the cause. They cut off and chopped up many areas
of land, while their noise and smoke polluted others. In
Cornwall Gardens, for instance, Sir Basil Bartlett remembered that 'the trees and bushes were mainly black, as they
were regularly covered with soot from the nearby
Metropolitan Railway'. (ref. 20) And almost immediately the
greater accessibility which the railways offered encouraged
builders to put up houses, which, if not noticeably smaller,
were often built on more cramped sites, and catered for
a less exclusive clientele which did not have the means
to provide its own transport.
By the end of the 1880s, however, the London suburban
railway system had matured sufficiently for those whose
business did not require punctilious daily attendance to
buy or build bigger, cheaper and healthier houses, often
with the advantage of freehold ownership, in the outer
suburbs or home counties. In this way the railways, having
brought Earl's Court and West Kensington to birth, soon
neglected their progeny and brought forth sturdier,
younger and more eligible housing stock in the open
country air. The families left behind were either those who
valued the convenience, facilities and reputation of Kensington or those who had to be close to their work. On
the strength of the former, parts of southern Kensington
retained their standing for years to come, but by the 1890s
the area as a whole was past its peak. Predictably, the districts which suffered most from social decline were those
which had been so quickly built as a result of the railways,
whereas those finished before 1870 already had some
established social character of their own which they found
easier to maintain.
The effect of the railways upon stabling and mews was
especially strong. Before 1870 there is no perceptible
decline in the amount of stabling allotted to new houses
in southern Kensington. Despite the growth of omnibus
services along Fulham Road, Old Brompton Road and
Kensington High Street, there had been a steady increase
in residential stabling from the niggardly amount attached
to Thurloe Square or the Kensington New Town developments of the 1840s. Most of the houses of the 1860s were
furnished with their own stabling, not always immediately
at the rear but within easy reach. This was the period of
Kensington's fashionable peak. Very big houses were
being built, and the 'carriage folk' who inhabited them
could afford their own conveyances and staff. The large
dwellings of the 1870s and even the 1880s, like the George
and Peto houses in Harrington and Collingham Gardens,
continued to require stabling as before.
But from 1870 the proportion of stabling built for ordinary houses shrank rapidly. In that year Freake converted
Sydney Mews between Onslow Square and Fulham Road,
hitherto in mixed use, into a block of studios — an increasingly prevalent policy for left-over land in Kensington
during the next thirty years. This was a symbolic change
in an area already established, but where houses were
newly built the decline of the mews was very marked.
Where Freake himself had intended further stabling off
Cranley Gardens, his successors in developing the Smith's
Charity estate, C. A. Daw and Son, from 1885 built Evelyn
Gardens entirely without stables. Stabling built after 1880,
like Adam and Eve Mews next to Kensington High Street,
was commonly sited with an eye to industrial or commercial use. The new flat-dwellers who crowded into the
district after 1885 had no need for their own stables. If
road transport were required, hansom cabs, omnibuses or,
on occasion, a private carriage hired from a livery stable,
could supply their want. For daily purposes they travelled
by train.
The building industry
A large number of builders were active in southern Kensington during the nineteenth century. From the years
when figures are available, two decades have been chosen
for comparison. In 1845–54 125 different builders or firms
notified the district surveyor that they were building
houses in the area; they would all have been persons incharge of building operations, not sub-contractors or independent craftsmen; all would have been employers of
labour. Between them they built 1,030 houses in the
decade, that is on average a mere eight apiece. Only eleven
of them erected twenty or more houses over the ten years,
Freake being responsible for by far the biggest total of 139
houses. In 1871–80 (statistics for the years 1856–70 being
unfortunately not available) 92 builders erected 1,982
houses, an average of over twenty each. The differences
between these sets of figures suggests that a change had
taken place in the building industry, at least in this part
of Kensington, by the 1870s, as bigger firms with greater
staying-power had moved into the area. The largest, in
terms of output, was the partnership of Corbett and
McClymont, who, despite having passed the peak of their
activity and succumbing to bankruptcy in 1878, erected
167 houses between 1871 and 1878. Second was Freake's
firm, which built 132 houses (besides some 90 stables and
coach-houses and other buildings). George Edward
Mineard accounted for exactly 100 houses in the decade,
and another ten firms built 50 or more. There were still,
of course, a number of transitory figures who built a few
houses and then passed on to other places or other
occupations.
Even in the early stages of development some builders
managed to make a sizeable personal impact. James Bonnin claimed in 1849, perhaps with some exaggeration as
he was soliciting funds for an ill-starred passage to Australia, to have built 300 houses in the Brompton area. Generlly speaking, however, it was the opening-up of the
territory to the south-west of the Great Exhibition site in
the 1850s which brought the bigger operators into
southern Kensington. These were men like Charles Aldin,
the grandson of an Uxbridge carpenter, who employed 500
men at the height of his career and whose personal estate
was valued at some £160,000 on his death in 1871, or William Douglas, who had migrated to London from Scotland
in his early twenties and became, briefly, 'a very wealthy
man', or William Jackson, brother of the railway contractor Thomas Jackson, and John Spicer, whose work also
extended to the Gunters' estates further west and who left
£300,000 on his death in 1883. Their 'fearless speculative
energy' was praised in 1859, (ref. 21) and between them they
erected over 500 big houses.
The doyen of them all, however, was Sir Charles James
Freake, the son of a coal merchant turned publican, who,
in a career extending over some forty-five years, was
responsible for the building of over 500 houses, the vast
majority of them in southern Kensington, including about
330 on the Smith's Charity estate alone. An obituarist said
that he had '"made" the neighbourhood of South Kensington, raising it from a neglected suburb to the rank of
a second Belgravia,' and the assessment that he was 'the
Cleverest of all the speculating Builders' seems to be borne
out by his remarkable climb up the social ladder culminating in the grant of a baronetcy in 1882, largely as a reward
for building the National Training School for Music at
his own expense. When he died in 1884 he left a personal
estate of £697,000 in addition to freehold property valued
at £246,000. (ref. 22)
In terms of sheer volume, however, even Freake has
to yield pride of place to Corbett and McClymont, who,
between 1861 and 1878 supervised the building of about
950 houses and over 70 mews premises in southern Kensington, a fifth of all buildings erected in the district during
those years. Sometimes they had to farm out work to other
builders, but they had a large establishment with a workforce said to number 500 in both 1872 and 1878, which
were not years when their output was particularly high.
There were several builders, who, if they never aspired
to this scale of operations, built solidly and steadily over
a number of years. These were men like Stephen Bird,
who was a well-known local figure, or Thomas Hussey and
Thomas Huggett, whose names were often coupled
together in speculative developments. Others included
John Robinson Roberts, who had interests elsewhere but
who lived in Kensington and worked on several estates
there, John Wilkins, Henry Harris, Matthew Scott, William Ashfold, William Watts, William Henry Cullingford,
George Edward Mineard, Charles Hunt, Taylor and
Cumming, Daw and Son, and the Belgian-born Jean
Francois Van Camp. Samuel Juler Wyand, who erected
over 100 large terraced houses between 1872 and 1884,
principally in Lexham Gardens and Marloes Road, is typical of the many builders whose names are now lost to ordinary fame but whose contributions in brick and mortar
are still patently visible.
Most of these builders worked mainly, some of them
exclusively, in Kensington. Few metropolitan-wide building concerns were active here, and only the William Willetts, who built on the Alexander, Broadwood, Day,
Smith's Charity and Gunter estates, and in Adam and Eve
Mews off Kensington High Street, made an impact on a
par with the more narrowly Kensington-based firms.
When they first established themselves in southern
Kensington, most builders had, not surprisingly, travelled
only a short distance. In the 1850s this was chiefly from
Belgravia and Pimlico, or, on the Gunter estate further
west, from Chelsea. Corbett and McClymont, for instance,
had begun their careers in Pimlico, and Freake in Belgravia. In the 1870s, however, there was a noticeable influx
into the south from northern Kensington, where the tide
of building had ebbed. Cullingford, Roberts, Taylor and
Cumming, Wyand and Mineard (to name only those
already mentioned) had all previously had addresses there.
Of those builders whose earlier careers can be traced, a
number had migrated to London from the provinces.
Douglas came from Scotland and Wyand from Norfolk,
while several others had links with Devon. Arthur Taylor
of Taylor and Cumming was Devon-born, as was Richard
Yeo, the owner-developer of Prince of Wales Terrace.
George Edward Mineard was born in St. John's, Newfoundland (which had strong West Country connections),
but lived in Devon during his early years, and two of Ken-sington's most successful building families, the Radfords
and the Daws, were Devonian in origin.
William Adams Daw was an infant when his father
migrated to London in the early 1860s; at his death in
1908 his effects were valued at £189,774. (ref. 23) Eight builders
whose careers were spent mostly, or entirely, in Kensington, are known to have left fortunes of £100,000 and
upwards, and there may have been others. All would have
been multi-millionaires today by a straight comparison of
money values, and most built up their great wealth from
virtually nothing.
There was, of course, an obverse side to the coin. William Douglas at one time had a large house in Barnes and
an office in Kensington: he employed a coachman apiece
for his wife and himself, and his own black-and-yellow
carriage was pulled by horses specially chosen for their
speed, to whisk him from home to office in the shortest
possible time. But in 1888 he was declared bankrupt with
liabilities of £657,000. George Tippett, a builder in Noting Hill, had liabilities of £860,000 when he suffered the
same fate in 1883, but both these figure were eclipsed by
the £1,300,000 said to have been owed by Corbett and
McClymont in 1878. Failures of this order were especially
dramatic, but in all over thirty builders and developers
working in southern Kensington during the nineteenth
century are known to have gone bankrupt. For each of
those there would have been many others whose financial
distress never came to that point, sometimes by the
deliberate intervention of creditors, for whom the declaration of bankruptcy was not necessarily an advantage.
Sources of speculative-building finance
Successes and failures on the scale indicated above provide
some measure of the vast sum of money, amounting to
many millions of pounds, which was invested in speculative building in Kensington during the nineteenth century.
The constant supply of this investment capital was, as we
have seen, a matter of vital concern to the builder, and
he looked to a wide variety of sources to try to ensure its
regular flow.
First and foremost among these were the solicitors, for
the straightforward mortgage arranged at the behest of the
builder on the one hand and the small investor looking
for a steady return of about five per cent on his savings
on the other was still the bread and butter of speculativebuilding finance throughout the nineteenth century. Solicitors were the usual intermediaries in such transactions,
but sometimes played a larger role than this professional
service alone dictated. They were prominent in the
development of the frontage of Kensington High Street
in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, and
concerted building along Brompton Road occurred when
Elisha Biscoe, an attorney whose clients included a number
of builders active in the West End, bought a large freehold
on the north side at an auction held in 1759. William
Elderton Allen, an attorney of Bloomsbury, was one of
the main speculators in Edwardes Square; at one time he
waxed rich enough to rent East Acton Manor House as
a country retreat, but shortly afterwards found it prudent
to leave England altogether when the enterprise fell upon
hard times. The Lewins, Corbett and McClymont's main
lawyers, and J. L. Tomlin, the Gunters' solicitor, were
heavily involved in house-building on the Gunters' and
other owners' lands, both taking and granting building
leases, and becoming parties to complex land dealings.
Tomlin, in particular, is an example of the lawyer-cumdeveloper, an individual encountered on a larger scale in
northern Kensington in the persons of men like Richard
Roy or Charles Richardson.
More typical, though, are solicitors like Edward
Thomas Goldingham of Worcester, who first became
interested in house-building in the Abingdon and
Scarsdale Villas area as trustee for a physician of St.
Marylebone and a widow of Cheltenham, and was thereafter closely engaged in the development as other clients
and members of his own family sank money into the speculation. Frederick Blasson Carritt of Basinghall Street was
a party to building leases of houses in Pembroke Gardens,
and then arranged a whole series of mortgages for the
actual builder, from, inter alia, dissenting ministers from
Plaistow and Greenwich, a farmer of Bedfordshire, an
'esquire' from Lincolnshire, a gentleman of Peckham and
a widow of Highbury. Thomas Lyon of Newman and
Lyon came from Yeovil and had a wide circle of West
Country clients whom he persuaded to invest in housebuilding in several streets in Earl's Court. Lyon also
invested his own money, and many other examples can
be found of solicitors who committed their own and their
families' capital to building speculations, as well as the
funds they administered as trustees or simply advisers to
many clients.
For builders the solicitor was a very important person.
Some two dozen in all were tapped for money by Corbett
and McClymont, and Wiliam Corbett's formidable energy
took him to as many as seven solicitors' offices in one day.
William Adams Daw said that he had sold one house at
a low price because the purchaser was the lawyer of both
himself and his immediate landlords 'and it suits us to be
on the best of terms with him'. (ref. 24)
Some ground landlords primed the pump of development by lending money themselves, the Gunters being
particularly ready to do this in southern Kensington.
There were also a number of private individuals, otherwise
unconnected with the building industry, who invested
heavily in house-building there. Daniel Sutton, a carpet
manufacturer of Wilton, was one of the main protagonists
in the long-running saga of the completion of Edwardes
Square and nearby streets, while on the other side of Earl's
Court Road Thomas Allen, a wealthy tailor, was the
principal developer, though as an eventual owner of freehold land here he perhaps comes into a different category.
Much of the building on the Alexander, Day and Smith's
Charity estates in the 1830s and 1840s was financed bythree major backers, two of them of 'independent' means,
and the third a timber merchant, Stephen Phillips, who
also had property interests in northern Kensington and
other parts of London. Thomas Gooch, a retired watchmaker from Clerkenwell, was much involved in the later
stages of building in the Pembroke Square area, as were
members of the Hawks family, whose wealth derived from
the profits of the engineering firm of Hawks, Crawshay
and Company of Gateshead. The fact that a junior member of the family was an attorney of Gray's Inn was doubtless a crucial factor here. Much later in the century the
ordnance inventor, Sir William Palliser, sank some of his
capital into the creation of Earl's Court Square.
Financial institutions were important as sources of
capital in southern Kensington, especially in areas where
the erection of big houses involved the outlay of commensurably large sums of money. Freake was one of the first
speculative builders to borrow from insurance companies,
to the extent of at least £120,000 from the Royal Exchange
Assurance and £80,000 from the County Fire Office over
a number of years. The latter also lent £50,000 to Aldin
in 1857, and the London Assurance and other companies
backed Aldin and several of his fellow builders, often with
handsome advances.
Lending by banks, both private and joint-stock, was
undoubtedly more widespread than the surviving documents would indicate, their frequently discreet role often
only coming to light when things went wrong. The 'up
front' direction of the development of the Abingdon Villas
and Scarsdale Villas area by the London and County Bank
was a notable exception. The Commercial Bank of London
saved William Jackson from bankruptcy in 1859, and in
the process of taking over his projected development of
Stanhope Gardens virtually changed from a banking concern into a property company. Coutts Bank ended up as
the owner of many of James Hall's houses in Pembroke
Road and Warwick Gardens after the builder's bankruptcy, and virtually took over the development of Roland
Gardens in the 1880s. Coutts was also a major backer of
Corbett and McClymont, sometimes acting through a
partner in the legal firm of Farrer, Ouvry. The solicitor
Charles Fishlake Cundy also provided such a link. His
clients included, on the one hand, Freake and other
builders, and on the other, the County Fire and Provident
Life Offices. He was also brother to the architect Thomas
Cundy III, who was professionally involved in housebuilding on a number of estates.
The role of building and land societies is difficult to
assess but was probably not great. The Chelsea Building
Society lent money for the completion of Ovington Square
in the 1840s, and the National Permanent Mutual Benefit
Building Society (commonly known as the National Freehold Land Society) was involved in Cornwall Gardens and
Trebovir Road. Other companies like the Land Securities
Company (Kensington Court and Nevern Square) or the
Midland Land and Investment Corporation, to whom
Edward Francis, the builder of Earl's Court Square, was
said to be indebted 'for large sums of money', were probably more like conventional finance companies.
The raising of loans, both large and small, on the
security of formal mortgages of building leases or subleases, was the staple means of financing building operations, but builders also resorted to other methods to obtain
money, one of the most important of which was the sale
of improved ground rents. The most straightforward way
of doing this was for the builder to create an enhanced
rent (above and beyond his rent to the ground landlord)
by sub-leases of finished or nearly finished houses, and
then sell that rent (usually accumulated on a number of
houses) to investors at several years purchase. There are
examples in this area, however, of improved ground rents
being sold ahead of their creation, sometimes before any
building had taken place. This very much more risky
device was used in the development of Edwardes Square
and helps to account for the labyrinthine financing of that
long-drawn-out undertaking. It also seems to have been
a method adopted on the Alexander and Smith's Charity
estates, especially by the builder James Bonnin. Here the
positions were reversed, outside financiers recouping some
of their investment by granting sub-leases to the builder
at improved ground rents. Corbett and McClymont crossleased houses to each other to create improved ground
rents worth in total upwards of £200,000.
Enough evidence has survived to suggest that builders
very frequently had to resort to short-term loans, often
at high rates of interest, particularly at the beginning of
a development when sufficient security for long-term
mortgages had yet to be created. William Elderton Allen
put up a life assurance policy as part collateral for such
a loan to start off operations in Edwardes Square and himself lent the builder, Changeur, over £2,000 on the security
of bills of exchange and unfinished houses; later he had
to borrow £5,000 for three months from a firm of bankers.
The records relating to the bankruptcy of the builders
Dowley and Tuck show that they had unsecured loans
from a spinster, a druggist and a victualler to begin work
in Pembroke Square, and that it was the spinster who initiated proceedings against them. That it was sometimes
necessary for even well-established builders to resort to
short-term loans is indicated by William Corbett's rather
desperate attempt 'to clear off temporary loans and make
permanent mortgages' just before his bankruptcy. (ref. 25)
Towards the end of the nineteenth century it became
increasingly common for builders to form small limited
liability companies, mainly in connection with the erection
of blocks of flats, where, with high costs involved, it no
doubt seemed prudent to share, and limit, the risk. Usually
shareholding was strictly limited to the builder and a few
close associates, and the companies were frequently wound
up quite quickly after serving their intitial purpose. One
such was The Estates Improvement Company, formed in
1891 by the architect Mervyn Macartney and a number
of friends of similar aesthetic taste to erect, not flats, but
large houses in Egerton Place. The venture was not a greatsuccess, and the company was in voluntary liquidation by
1898.
Architects and building development
Macartney's part in this small development shows that
architects were prepared at times to engage directly in
speculative building in southern Kensington. Their more
usual roles, however, were as agents for landowners, or
as agents, employees or consultants of speculative builders
or developers. In a different capacity, they were also, of
course, commissioned to create and supervise the construction of houses for individual clients.
The basic job of architects representing freeholders of
building land was to act as their estate surveyors. This
position was normally held throughout the nineteenth century by men who conceived their profession to be that of
surveyor as much as that of architect. The scope of such
employment depended both upon a landowner's wishes
and upon the powers and policies of his other crucial
representative, his lawyer. An estate surveyor might be
asked to do any or all of three things: to lay out portions
of the estate for development, in whatever detail; to design
housing and, sometimes, other buildings such as churches;
and to regulate the activities of builders. Who made estate
layouts is frequently far from clear, but the basic pattern
seems rarely to have been left to speculators, however often
it may have been changed to match their needs and progress. Sometimes, as in the case of George Godwin's work
for H. L. Vallotton in Kensington New Town of the 1840s
and 1850s, the estate surveyor seems to have scarcely done
more than create and update a layout and see that it was
in the broadest of terms adhered to. The activities of
George Pownall and his successor Michael Manning,
surveyors for H. B. Alexander's estate west of Gloucester
Road in the 1870s and 1880s, seem only modestly more
extensive. Here the surveyor settled layouts for sections
of the land, sent them to the Metropolitan Board of Works
for approval, scrutinized plans of builders and others, and
probably stipulated certain facing materials mentioned in
the building agreements; yet the evidence of strong architectural intervention in the estate's appearance is lacking.
This kind of remit may have been the commonest in the
mid-Victorian period. It appears to have been the method
of working on the Edwardes estate after the 1840s during
the surveyorships of M. J. Stutely and Daniel Cubitt
Nichols, on the Brompton Hospital estate under George
Pownall, and on the Day estate under W. H. Collbran.
On the Smith's Charity estate in Brompton a different
pattern emerged. In the early stages of development here
between 1833 and 1845 the estate surveyor, George Basevi,
was dominant despite the presence of an experienced
builder, James Bonnin. Basevi probably created the whole
layout of the eastern portions of the estate and certainly
designed both elevations and plans of its set pieces, notably
Pelham Crescent and Egerton Crescent. But with the rise
of the builder C. J. Freake, coincident with Basevi's death
and Bonnin's bankruptcy, the responsibilities shift.
Freake, who came to employ his own team of architects
and surveyors, himself determined the layout of Onslow
Square and much of the estate westwards, albeit on lines
previously sketched out by Basevi. During this period the
architectural influence of the freeholders' surveyor, H.
Clutton, is negligible. Likewise C. A. Daw and Son, the
builders who completed the development of the Smith's
Charity land with Evelyn Gardens (1886–90), enjoyed
much latitude in matters of layout and design.
Other examples confirm a movement towards greater
freedom for developers after 1845, sustained until about
the time that major building in southern Kensington came
to an end in about 1890. This may have been the result
of a gradual loss of control over architectural design by
ground landlords and their agents and a corresponding
growth in the power of local authorities and the district
surveyors, following the Building Act of 1844. Before 1845
most builders' activities had been on a small scale and this,
combined with the disciplines of classical composition,
imposed a certain duty for design upon conscientious
estate surveyors. The change may be discerned in the short
interval between the two main estates of Kensington New
Town. Here John Inderwick's property was built up by
several small builders between 1837 and 1843 seemingly
to the neat designs of a single architect, perhaps Joel Bray.
But the neighbouring Vallotton estate, where development
got properly under way only in 1841, was mostly divided
between larger developers without any visible imposition
of elevation or plan. This system became common in the
1860s and 1870s, the heyday of high-class development
in southern Kensington. Freake, Aldin, Jackson, Douglas
and other big builders of this era themselves determined
the shape and dress of the houses which they erected, so
much so that along much of Cromwell Road the passage
from one historic freehold to another is entirely indiscernible. On some estates, however, firmer architectural control seems to have persisted at any rate into the 1860s.
The Broadwood estate in Cornwall Gardens was
thoroughly managed by Thomas Cundy III, who at first
appears to have supplied elevations, specifications and
perhaps also plans. Yet even here after 1875 a greater
measure of freedom obtained, the builder who completed
the development (William Willett) being permitted to
import his own architect and vary the style. On the lands
of the Gunter family, the estate surveyors, George and
Henry Godwin, appear to have exercised a pronounced,
if capricious, architectural influence into the 1870s, but
latterly at least this seems to have been at the behest of
the major builders, Corbett and McClymont, rather than
on the landlords' directions.
The commonest involvement for the architect in speculative housing was, indeed, as a subordinate to the
developer-builder. As this role was professionally
inglorious it was little talked about, so that the normal conditions and divisions of responsibility are far from clear.
But it may be hazarded that after about 1850, when housesgrew larger, more intricate and more ambitious, at least
the elevations and to some extent the plans of most houses
in southern Kensington emanated from an architectural
office of some sort. The largest of all the builders here,
C. J. Freake, himself employed an 'in-house' team to
design and supervise, as has been said. It was probably
never large, but it did have some continuity. The William
Willetts represent a perhaps more typical picture, employing no more than one architect at a time. They used three
architects to design housing for them in Kensington and
elsewhere: James Trant Smith in Cornwall Gardens
(1876–9), Harry Measures in Bina Gardens (1884–6) and
Amos Faulkner in Egerton Place (1894–7). Smith and
Measures, who may have had some nominal independence, in due course both carved out their own
architectural practices; Faulkner, on the other hand,
remained in the Willetts' employ for the rest of his career.
A similar example is that of F. N. Kemp, a lowly architect
who seems to have been in the more or less permanent
employment of Corbett and McClymont during the later
stages of their activities on the Gunter estate and who subsequently eked out an unmomentous career of his own.
This was the type of work into which young architects
with few contacts and little means were probably much
forced in mid-Victorian London. Often doubtless the task
was to refine or develop a house-type which already
existed, adapting it in whatever ways the site, the estate
surveyor, the building regulations or the vagaries of architectural fashion might dictate.
Other examples of such employment come fleetingly
into view. But for every case where the identity of a
builder's architect is known, there are perhaps a dozen
where existing records are silent. Many ambitious
schemes, like Aldin and Sons' handsome Roland Gardens,
Joseph Clark's mansarded houses in Emperor's Gate, the
run of Queen Anne houses on the south side of Earl's
Court Square and even the flats of Wynnstay Gardens cannot be attributed, not because no architect was involved
but because his identity cannot be recovered. Builders
were on the whole reluctant to give credit to their paid
subordinates. Freake, for instance, took this custom to
such lengths that he himself posed as an architect and successfully suppressed the names of those who designed his
two ambitious churches, St. Paul's, Onslow Square, and
St. Peter's, Cranley Gardens. In the case of other important Kensington builders like Jackson, the Aldins or William Cooke, the clues to the identity of their architectural
staff simply do not remain.
Turning to the role of architect as speculator, this was
a well-accepted activity before the Victorian architectural
profession grew self-conscious about its purpose and mission. Henry Holland and Michael Novosielski both contributed on their own accounts to Brompton's development
in the 1780s and 1790s, their status and skills giving them
certain advantages in treating with freeholders and coordinating craftsmen. Later, the architect W. W. Pocock
took the main initiative in and reaped a handsome profit
from developing Ovington Square (1844–52). Going about
the same object differently Samuel Ware, the architect of
the Burlington Arcade, bought four acres off the Fulham
Road in 1823 and himself leased them for building. The
rise of the efficient developer-builder diminished this way
of working but never brought it to an absolute end.
Edward Habershon, for example, received leases for some
of Matthew Scott's sites in Emperor's Gate, presumably
in payment for his designing houses there (1876–8). It
is unlikely that Ernest George and Harold Peto's interests
in the fantastic houses built by the latter's brothers in Harrington and Collingham Gardens in the 1880s were confined to a simple professional fee; while in the early
twentieth century, among the more engaging changes to
the fabric of the area were the several speculative mewsconversions undertaken by Herbert Stanley-Barrett and
Driver, architects and surveyors.
Finally, the Victorian architect in southern Kensington
may also be found in the role in which he especially liked
to cast himself, as an independent designer working for
an independent client at a fixed professional fee. Kensington's non-domestic buildings were mostly built on this
basis, but they constituted a very small proportion of the
building fabric. Of houses themselves, few were ever commissioned directly from architects. Some of the demolished villas of Brompton were perhaps architect-designed
in this way, while in the grand Kensington Palace Gardens
of the 1850s there were a few purchasers who chose to
treat directly with architects rather than buy 'off the peg'.
But only with the emergence of the Queen Anne style in
the 1870s and the growth of aestheticism and artists'
houses did the individual middle-class house in Kensington make any palpable impression. When it did so, in the
hands of architects such as J. J. Stevenson and Norman
Shaw and in streets like Queen's Gate, it made an immediate and forcible impact which quickly influenced speculative building in the district. But this type was never
numerically significant. The work of Ernest George and
Peto in Harrington and Collingham Gardens contrives to
appear as a medley of houses built for individuals but was,
it must be recalled, predominantly speculative. Likewise
in the ambitious Kensington Court of the 1880s and 1890s,
only four houses were ever built for individual clients.
Brompton's most Arts-and-Crafts houses of the 1890s,
those by Mervyn Macartney in Egerton Place and by
C. F. A. Voysey in Hans Road, were also speculative
schemes, of however high a class.
The growth of employment and influence for independent architects in Kensington in the 1880s and 1890s
derived not from any increase in individual commissions
for houses, but from the changing nature of what was built
and how. The relative size and complexity of flats, which
replaced the speculative dwelling as the main means of
housing in the area; the growth of new kinds of building,
institutional and commercial; and the specialisms which
flowed from increased building controls: all these rescued
the architect from a modest, if significant, position in theprocess of development to a place of greater honour and
importance after 1900.
The Kensington Vestry and building development
The municipal authorities of Kensington played no conspicuous role in building development. Throughout the
long transition from suburban village to royal borough,
they adhered to the principles of laissez faire so far as was
possible, setting their face against any intervention not
imposed by statute which might entail a call upon the rates.
Until 1855 the secular and ecclesiastical business of the
parish was deliberated upon without distinction in open
vestry attended by householders. In this period public
amenity was a minor concern of the Vestry, rate income
being devoted in this regard merely to 'repairing the Highways and cleansing the Square and Streets within and usually cleansed by this parish'. (ref. 26) Separate commissions and
trusts managed the sewers and main roads, while the few
new roads remained the responsibility of freeholders or
developers unless 'adopted'. The most effective powers
were those wielded by the Westminster Commission of
Sewers, the body responsible until 1847 for Kensington's
drainage, which required developers to make proper
sewers along authorized lines and to contribute to their
cost if they wished to run any water off their property.
For this reason John Inderwick chose in 1839 to create
a makeshift cesspool on his Kensington New Town estate
rather than pay for a new sewer along Gloucester Road
from which others would in due course benefit. The power
of the sewer commissioners — if not their susceptibility to
influence — is suggested by the fact that their surveyor,
John Dowley, was also one of the developers of Pembroke
Square and a contractor for the Kensington Canal in the
1820s.
Before the Vestry was reformed and made elective in
1855, it spent most heavily upon church affairs and poor
relief. It was always chary of capital projects and inclined
to seek support elsewhere when they became inevitable.
Despite the growth of population in far-away Brompton,
no effort seems to have been made to add to the meagre
public accommodation available in the parish church until
grants became available from the Commissioners for
Building New Churches in the 1820s. Even then, only one
rather than two new churches (Holy Trinity, Brompton,
and St. Barnabas's, Addison Road) might have been built,
had not the commissioners agreed to find half the estimated cost even in this far-from-poor parish. Likewise a
party on the Vestry strenuously opposed Kensington's
Board of Guardians (separated off from the Vestry in 1837)
when the latter resolved to build a better workhouse in
1846.
The same frugal or canny tradition survived the reform
of the Vestry and the gradual intensification of building
controls from 1844 onwards. Standards and constraints in
Kensington's development during the second half of the
century were set predominantly by freeholders and their
agents, whether architects, surveyors or lawyers, but
increasingly also by the Metropolitan Board of Works and
its successor, the London County Council. Applications
for waivers under the Building Acts usually came before
the Vestry as well as the Board of Works, but until the
1890s it is rare to find a decisive or individual view on
such matters emanating from the former body. Though
sometimes, as in the case of Cornwall Gardens, opinions
might be delivered on the naming of streets, firmer regulation was exercised mainly by the much-resented Board of
Works. The Vestry's chief duties connected with development became the adoption, paving and maintenance of
streets.
Street-lighting became an increasing concern, but again
direct involvement was slight. Being a prosperous district,
Kensington was profitable territory for the water, gas and
electric-lighting companies. It is not accidental that one
of the first active electric-lighting suppliers, the Kensington Court Electric Lighting Company (1886) set itself up in
this part of London. When, in the 1890s, municipal intervention was bruited about, it was opposed in Kensington
with particular vigour. A committee of the Vestry recommended applying for an order to supply electric light in
the poorer, northern half of the parish in 1893, but under
pressure from the companies the initiative was quashed
by the full Vestry. (ref. 27)
The chief instance of municipally backed development
during Kensington's main years of growth was the rebuilding of Nos. 63–111 (odd) on the south side of Kensington
High Street and the creation of Ball Street in 1868–71
under an Improvement Act. In this case the Vestry wished
to improve traffic flow in the crowded High Street, though
clearance of the old courts behind may have been a secondary motive. The policy was adopted only after the destruction of a few houses by fire; and having set back the
building line here, the Vestry readily and characteristically
resigned the lion's share of the task to the Metropolitan
Board of Works. So successful was this development (however dull architecturally), that Barkers and Derry and
Toms, having started out as small retailers here, expanded
to such an extent that they outgrew the bounds of the
scheme, and an unquestionable boost was provided to
Kensington's prosperity.
Some of those who featured as lessees or developers in
the sites of the Kensington Improvement Scheme were,
or became, involved in the affairs of the Vestry — either
as vestrymen, like Jubal Webb, or as officers, like the
parish surveyor James Broadbridge. As on other vestries,
builders, architects and developers were represented, the
local builders Thomas Huggett and Francis Radford serving with particular prominence for many years. But there
is no reason for thinking that their influence was especially
strong. It may indeed have been weaker in Kensington,
where the professional classes were vigorous in local
politics, than in some other authorities. They naturally
upheld their interests, but they do not seem to have used
the Vestry as an instrument for furthering their privateambitions. The only developer against whom such suspicions may be cast was Jubal Webb the cheesemonger,
whose 'local influence' was allegedly decisive in securing
the development of Iverna Court and Gardens, and who
narrowly escaped conviction for abusing his official position as High Constable in 1880.
One aspect of policy which exercised other vestries and
boroughs increasingly from 1850 onwards was that of slum
clearance and the provision of working-class housing.
Kensington escaped the worst of these problems but was
not without small, acute patches of poverty. George Godwin, the architect, sanitarian, journalist and Brompton
resident, drew attention several times in The Builder to
local pockets of distress. The sorriest examples in the
middle of the century were the Potteries in northern Kensington and the courts in and around Jennings Buildings
off the south side of Kensington High Street. In the latter
area some cholera cases in 1849, coupled with the fact that
the slum-dwellers were mostly Irish and attracted notice
along the High Street, aroused abnormal anxiety and
animosity. But official remedies — amounting to standpipes and a ragged school — were half-hearted. It was left
to Baron Grant to solve the parish's predicament by purchasing the courts and levelling them for his own private
purposes in 1873.
Twenty years later, procedures had improved but were
still imperfect. In the prolonged saga of the James Street
clearance behind Kensington Square (1888–1901), the
Vestry after hesitation intervened half-heartedly but in the
end bequeathed the enterprise to the speculators who had
originally proposed redevelopment here.
By this date the increasing duty of rehousing as well
as clearing caused extra complications. The Vestry set its
face against municipal housing and (on the motion of
Thomas Huggett) in 1893 endorsed a resolution regretting
that the London County Council had undertaken 'the
detail work of erecting workmen's dwellings, thereby
unfairly competing with private enterprise'. (ref. 28) The difficulty was to convince private enterprise to do such things
at all. Thomas Hussey, significantly Huggett's partner,
was one of the few builders willing to erect artisan housing
in southern Kensington during the later Victorian period,
as in Blithfield Street, Ansdell Terrace, Barker Street and
Pater Street (1869–90); others found it unprofitable.
Barker Street indeed rapidly degenerated into a slum,
caused problems for the Vestry as early as 1892, and had
itself to be cleared in the 1930s.
Despite this the Borough Council (as the Vestry became
in 1900) continued to avoid building municipal housing.
The only exception was in Kenley Street, in the Potteries
area of Notting Dale where, following sharp criticism of
the Vestry's sanitary record, an unusual policy of renovation and sub-division of existing houses was pursued in
the years around 1906. But entirely new building was
avoided right up to the time of the Addison Act of 1919,
which imposed a duty on local authorities to house. Even
then the Borough's instinct was to commission a consultant architect and planner, Stanley Adshead, to formulate a policy for the alleviation of conditions in northern
Kensington rather than to build itself. Most of the schemes
of 'social housing' built in North Kensington between the
wars proceeded from housing trusts, the Borough opining
that 'there are many objections to the local authority of
any area becoming property owners on a large scale'. (ref. 29)
Thus did the political traditions of Kensington continue.
In southern Kensington, not until after the amalgamation
of the boroughs of Kensington and Chelsea can substantial
schemes of public housing be found, as in Finborough
Road (1969–71) and above the Central Depot in Warwick
and Pembroke Roads (1972–6). Such as exist were almost
always designed by outside firms of architects. The
Borough kept its architectural staff small and was among
the first local authorities to experiment with 'privatization'
in this sphere in 1980.
The Kensington house
The building activity summarized in this chapter produced a wide variety of building types in southern Kensington, from the museums and other institutions devoted
to art and science in the east, described in volume XXXVIII,
to the monuments of Brompton Cemetery, covered in
volume XLI, and the exhibition buildings, both ephemeral
and permanent, of Earl's Court in the west. Of the larger
structures, a general account of the many churches in the
area is given at the beginning of Chapter XXIII of this
volume, as well as individual descriptions. Other types
include numerous retail premises, particularly the major
department stores of Harrods, Barkers, Derry and Toms,
and Pontings; two large hospitals, one of which itself
evolved out of two workhouses, and two smaller hospitals,
one now closed and the other of recent erection; a few
industrial buildings, including a piano factory, of which
a fragment remains; several blocks of flats of virtually all
periods between 1880 and 1985; hotels, especially those
of recent date which are very conspicuous if not visually
the most satisfying additions to the Kensington skyline;
public houses of all types and conditions; and a large
number of smaller structures from studios to the premises
for the care and maintenance firstly of horses and now of
motor cars. It is, however, the domestic house which
naturally dominates this primarily residential area and
calls for further comment.
The Victorian element in the streets of Kensington so
preponderates that the earlier and later areas — of smaller,
simpler houses behind blossomy front gardens, or the
more wayward and individual houses of twentieth-century
architects — seem to relieve what is felt as monotony. This
is so even though the main period of Kensington's building, from the 1850s through to the 1880s, produced a great
variety of facade-treatments to beguile the passer-by. Grey
or brownish brick, stone and stucco were used in varying
proportions (until everything rather suddenly went red or
red-and-yellow about 1882–3), while the façade-designsincluded elevations as different as, for example, No. 26
Queen's Gate and No. 1 Queen's Gate Place nearby
(figs. 54–5 on pages 286–7 of volume XXXVIII). Both are
good of their substantial kind, and many more ordinary
terraces, like those of Cromwell Gardens or Earl's Court
Square, were well put together. But for all that the effect
of much of Kensington is more wearisome than can be
explained by a comparison of the façade-designs. This
results, perhaps, from the mere height of the houses acting
in conjunction with the general busy-ness of a hard and
routine Italianate decoration. And at street level the
astonishing ubiquity of the pillared portico makes, in total,
for tedium, particularly as the order chosen was usually
a stolid Roman Doric that precluded the fluting of the columns which adds a welcome touch of sharpness to the
equally plethoric Italianate of Bayswater.
Of the earlier age much the most interesting and important survival is Kensington Square, projected and begun
in the 1680s and containing some vestiges of the late seventeenth century in the fabric and planning of a few of its
houses. Although these are mostly of modest size their
internal arrangement does not always conform to what
became the formula for the usual London terrace house
and some unstandardized practices seem to survive in the
positioning of staircases, fireplaces and closet-wings.
Apart from this, very little house-building earlier than
the turn of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries
survives south (or north) of Kensington High Street. One
agreeable exception is on the north side of Brompton Road
where some of the houses built in the 1760s as Brompton
Row, although mutilated and now converted to shops, still
survive on their 'terrace' partly raised above the roadway.
Early-nineteenth-century work in the late-Georgian tradition is much better represented — again especially in the
vicinity of the main roads. Brompton Square (1823–35)
and Alexander Square (1827–8) on the Brompton RoadFulham Road route, or Edwardes Square (1811–21) off
Kensington High Street and Pembroke Square (1823–35)
off Earl's Court Road, show the flat-fronted, late-Georgian
brick style — Edwardes Square in notably simple and
unassuming dress for so extensive a development. The
adjacent Earl's Terrace is an unwaveringly severe —
almost bleak —sample of the late-Georgian taste for
uniformity on a large scale. A pleasing curiosity is the small
Ware estate of 1825–35 off the Fulham Road, where the
little two-storeyed houses of Elm Place and Selwood Place
are delicately dignified by architraved doorcases. One formula very common in late-Georgian town building is comparatively rare in Kensington's surviving buildings — the
quasi-arcading of a brick front at first-floor level where
the straight-headed window-openings were recessed in a
succession of round-headed arches — although there are
a few humble examples at Notting Hill and Earl's Court.
A splendid version of this scheme, both more refined and
more elaborate than usual, existed at a few houses in Upper
Phillimore Place (on the north side of the High Street)
designed by William Porden about 1789, until they were
replaced by a large, brand-new 'magnificent Georgian
building' in 1931–2.
A development mainly of the first three decades of the
nineteenth century that is no longer very apparent is the
villas built in their own grounds (though occasionally
semi-detached) on Campden Hill, for example, but especially at Brompton, where they served its reputation (not
quite extinct today) as the home of theatre people, and
added by their gardens to the charm of what must have
been a delicious suburb in the last days before building
really took hold upon it. Mostly the villas were architecturally plain, shunning Gothick or more exotic fancies.
The Villa Maria, later Gloucester Lodge, of about 1800
had an appropriately regal colonnade and Sidmouth Lodge
of 1833 was gravely Grecian. The late-Georgian Greek
style in its developed form was not much favoured for
Kensington's houses although some quasi-villas in Holland Park Avenue designed by Robert Cantwell (1828–9)
and in Hyde Park Gate built by Grissell and Peto (1846–7)
survive.
Very few of the early-nineteenth-century ranges of ordinary housing affected Tudor or Gothick styles. St. Anne's
Villas of 1845 on the Norland estate in northern Kensington are one exception. The small Inderwick estate of 1837–
43 in Kensington New Town is a remarkably complete
development in a picturesque style without being either
Grecian or mediaeval-Tudor.
Where the late-Georgian to early-Victorian developments of houses were architecturally most ambitious they
tended to be faced all in stucco and laid out in crescents.
Pelham Crescent designed by George Basevi and built in
1833–41 is perhaps the most satisfying, whereas his
Egerton Crescent of 1844–5, for example, loses in its
greater richness something of the feeling for the concave
shape itself.
This taste for greater elaboration sometimes expressed
itself in straight ranges of houses organized in a counterpoint of motifs more apparent on the drawing board than
in the street — Earl's Court Gardens (1853–6), for
example — and this tendency was carried into the 1860s
by the architect Thomas Cundy III in Queen's Gate.
In Hereford Square of 1845–51 the all-stucco style was
elaborated into something near-palatial in aspiration if not
in size. In staider Thurloe Square of 1840–6 George Basevi
made a significant step towards the coming age with his
use of white brick and stone or stucco and a slight but
perceptible hardening and emphasizing of the architectural features.
The square of this traditional form (in both these
instances essentially three-sided) still prevailed in Kensington for the 'better' type of layout. Already in the 1840s,
however, a variant which became of great importance was
appearing on the slopes of Notting Hill, where houses were
built not in squares facing central planted enclosures
across circumferent roadways but in groupings where at
least one range abutted directly on the planted area. This
arrangement, which under the name of 'Gardens' was itselfcapable of considerable variation, became a notable feature
of the larger Kensington estates and, at the close of Kensington's main building period, attracted comment from
Hermann Muthesius and Arthur Street. (ref. 30) Occasionally, as
at Colville Square in northern Kensington and Ashburn
Place in southern, the ranges abutting on the garden were
turned back to front, and presented to the street the stepped projections normally found at the rear. But in Kensington it was not until Evelyn Gardens — so late as
1886 — that this device was used with much conviction to
add interest to the street front.
These 'Gardens' in immediate proximity to at least
some of the houses in a layout compensated partially for
the increasing disappearance of the garden from the planning of house-sites in High Victorian Kensington. The
regularly designed front garden wall along the pavement
which gives a sense of repose to some streets essentially
of the 1850s such as Gilston Road, The Boltons and Eldon
Road thus yielded to the staccato reiteration of porticoes
and the dominating presence of the house-fronts.
The obtrusiveness and restlessness of the High Victorian front in Kensington owed much to the use of the
canted bay breaking forward between the porticoes. Segmental bows were not much favoured in southern Kensington (less than in northern Kensington, where they
appear on the garden fronts of some houses on the Ladbroke estate), and the canted bay itself is not greatly in
evidence before the 1860s although there are some in Earl's
Court Gardens and Abingdon Villas of the mid 1850s.
Thereafter it became widespread, sometimes rising to
double-storey height in the 1860s and higher still —at
some houses in Cromwell Road, for example — in the
1870s.
The back garden, as well as the front, became submerged under the increased size of the Victorian family
house here, where the ground floor now increasingly
accommodated the drawing-room that had hitherto often
been situated on the first floor, as well as such Victorian
amenities as a billiard-room. In consequence the ground
floor often included a third large room at the rear and
sometimes a fourth as well. This covering-over of the site
was already a characteristic of the builder William Jackson's big houses on the 1851 Exhibition Commissioners'
estate in Queen's Gate in the mid 1850s. The Abingdon
Villas-Scarsdale Villas area was built up in the 1850s–
1860s mostly with gardens front and back but the mid
1860s saw nearly the end of this practice in southern Kensington. In the 1870s some big houses — on each side of
De Vere Gardens, for example — were built back to back
with the houses behind.
Another amelioration of the totally built site was the
conservatory, often at first-floor level. It did not, however,
establish its presence in such houses at all universally, and
is, for some reason, less noticeable in the area of this
volume than elsewhere.
The size of the house-site itself was at the same time
under pressure from a generally high if fluctuating demand
and the semi-detached layouts of the 1840s and 1850s were
succeeded by the completely terraced schemes appropriate
to the more wholly urbanized Kensington of the 1870s and
1880s.
The façade-organization of some of these tall houses is
analysed in volume XXXVIII (pages 307–11, figs. 63–83).
The Palladian scheme incorporating a first-floor piano
nobile and an attic storey above the main cornice was
retained in some instances, particularly in the 1840s and
1850s and notably in the builder Sir Charles Freake's
Onslow Square, but in the houses most characteristic of
the 1860s and 1870s their great height was often acknowledged and accentuated by a shift of the focus of interest
to a higher level, with the removal of the most conspicuous
dressing of the front to the second floor and the provision
of a crowning cornice proportioned to the whole height
of the house. This gives a kind of handsomeness even to
coarsely detailed houses like those in Kensington Road
(Hyde Park Gate) on the west corner of Queen's Gate.
The decorative ironwork which was often the main eyecatching and shadow-casting accent on a late-Georgian
front at first-floor level was sometimes continued high up
the façade, as at the 'Albert Houses' in Queen's Gate or
at some houses in Grenville Place, with strongly exotic
effect. The extension upwards of the canted bay has been
noticed and both the feeling and reality of height were also
increased by the tendency to raise the house over higher
basements — an effect noticeable, for example, in the later
compared with the earlier houses of Seymour Walk.
The High Victorian terraces in southern Kensington
generally did not attempt the elaborate all-over composition of thirty years earlier, but repeated essentially identical fronts. These almost always expressed the traditional
London terrace-house plan (analysed on pages 18–19 of
volume XXXVII), which required the door, together with
the entrance hall, staircase and rear wing, to be at one side
of the house. Sometimes all the houses in the terrace had
repeated plans, and the fronts presented a succession of
single doors or porticoes separated by one house-width of
window. Sometimes each alternate house was turned to
mirror the plan of its neighbours, permitting the rear
wings to be be built together and the front doors to be
coupled, often under a double portico, with two housewidths of window between them. This latter arrangement
tended to grow in favour, but both systems existed alongside, even within single developments, and it is not easy
to determine the factors that controlled the choice of one
or the other and whether practical considerations (especially regarding the construction of adjacent staircase halls
and chimney flues and the building of two rear wings as
one structure) or aesthetic fashions were predominant.
The latter might have related to the larger-scaled effects
possible in a terrace where the doorway-units were half
as frequent and twice as wide, but the earlier instances
of that scheme, in the early 1860s, were in quite humble
streets. At a development like Penywern Road, put up by
one builder in 1874–80, it is not apparent why the ratherearlier of the houses are repetitively arranged and the
rather later ones mirrored.
The question of the architect's role in deciding such
matters has been discussed above, but the reality remains
obscure. There are undoubted instances where a certain
recurring treatment or motif seems characteristic of a
builder (or his architectural guide) rather than of an estate
or its surveyor, and other instances where a motif is 'borrowed' for use elsewhere when there seems neither builder
nor estate surveyor in common. There was no copyright
in design and the Kensington building world must have
been very emulous and competitive.
In this and other respects much, besides the house-plan,
remained unaltered from the Georgian period. The
'Gardens' layout, though in Kensington the distinguishing, was not the predominating arrangement, and great
areas were laid out in a traditional grid of streets that were
sometimes aligned on a contrived (if not very effective)
vista-stopper. And many of the façade-designs continued
to aim at a taste for sobriety verging on dullness. Freake's
very prominent, and ducally inhabited, Cromwell Houses
in Cromwell Road of 1858 onwards look unashamedly
strait-laced, and so did some very restrained houses of the
1860s in Stanhope Gardens (designed by the thoughtful
Thomas Cundy III and now demolished) and others built
by the solidly successful John Spicer in Old Brompton
Road that ran on into the 1870s.
In less fashionable parts of southern Kensington what
seems to have been merely old-fashioned practice on the
part of builders also produced some very Georgian-looking
houses, as in Kenway Road and Child's Place off Earl's
Court Road in the late 1860s.
The Tuscan-villa Italianate of the wealthier outer
suburbs and resorts was hardly ever chosen and instances
of the use of Gothic for runs of houses continued to be
rare, particularly if quasi-Gothic such as that of Nos. 239–
279 Old Brompton Road is disregarded. But in the later
years of the Italianate phase there appear some significantly restive extravaganzas on the old theme — in
Emperor's Gate, for example, or at the western end of
Cornwall Gardens. Redcliffe Square of 1868–76 is a striking example of the fiercer variety of the mixed or eclectic
style into which the older Italianate formulae were dissolving, and sharing the high French roofs, though not the
suavity, of the Grosvenor Gardens Third-Empire mode —
a style hardly represented in Kensington. The not-verytasteful innovations introduced by the same builders, Corbett and McClymont, high up at the curved east corner
of Old Brompton Road and Earl's Court Road in 1874–7
gained the emulation of other builders elsewhere in
Kensington.
In some of these 'sports' diverging from the Italianate
norm in the late 1870s red brick makes an appearance, as
it does in some otherwise conventional houses of the
elderly builder John Spicer. Nevertheless the change to
red or yellow-and-red brick in Kensington in about 1882–3
was very sharp, despite these premonitory symptoms.
Some of the ranges put up after 1883 were not in fact very
bold departures from the previous norm in respect of their
design — Wetherby Place on the Day estate, for example.
But the difference in aesthetic effect of a red-brick street
of the 1880s and a conventional or 'characterful' street of
the 1870s, whatever its mixture of materials, is unmistakeable. The change to an all-over warm colouring seems to
have been genuinely hungered-for — a feeling more easily
understood when the brickwork was new and the stucco
dun-coloured than now when the brickwork is darkened
and the stucco painted white or cream.
This revolution occurred about ten years after the freer
Domestic Revival or Queen Anne style established itself
in Kensington in houses specially designed by architects
for wealthy clients. Even the most successful practitioner
of the old style, Freake himself, switched to red brick (in
Cranley Gardens) in 1883. Philbeach Gardens evidences
the change; so, even, does a single house at No. 29 Ashburn Place. Some of the new ranges, like Mears's houses
in Collingham Gardens, were clearly akin to the new
'architect-designed' houses (here by George and Peto
opposite) but modified for ordinary speculative use.
In size, and the social relations of master and servant
they were designed to serve, these 'Queen Anne' houses
in Kensington were not different from their unregenerate
High Victorian predecessors. They were built, moreover,
just when the big Kensington house, whatever its dressing,
was itself falling abruptly and rather mysteriously out of
favour. Even the delightful, individually designed houses
of George and Peto in Collingham Gardens were not outstandingly successful and soon the 'red-brick' style was
most conspicuously displayed in blocks of flats. Here there
was a great opportunity for further outbursts of ironwork
in balconies of various forms, often supported on the
prominent, elongated, shaped brackets which, now whitepainted, are so characteristic of the street scenes in the
Egerton- and Barkston-Gardens flat-lands.
By the end of the century Kensington was largely built
over, but one exception, northward from Oxford Gardens
on the St. Quintin estate in northern Kensington, saw an
extensive development of small two-storeyed houses built
from 1905 onwards. Their style, if uncharacteristic of
Kensington, is one of the most widely dispersed in
London's inner suburbs, with prominent two-storeyed
bays capped by their own slated roofs hipped out from
the main roof, also slated. Mostly, however, the styles of
this century have been able to show themselves only at
small or individual sites or where rebuilding was practicable. Excellent Arts-and-Crafts-influenced designs can be
found, some by an architect of appropriate background,
Frank Chesterton, whose Hornton Street (north of the
High Street), for example, shows an inventiveness, solidity
of modelling and feeling for texture akin to the work by
Eustace Balfour and Thackeray Turner in Mayfair. St.
Mary Abbot's Place is an interesting enclave of individual
houses built a few years later behind Kensington High
Street but resolutely non-metropolitan in feeling.Roughcast and gables appeared, even in Abingdon Villas
(No. 2) and at the corner of Edwardes Square (No. 24).
Voyseyish houses in a country or outer suburban manner
were built in Lexham Walk, amidst all the stucco and
white brick: authentic Voysey at Nos. 14 and 16 Hans
Road is predictably different — original but urbane.
The violent reaction against the formalism of the big
Kensington house was most readily expressed in the conversion or rebuilding of those mews that builders had continued to provide into the 1880s beyond the call of the
market, which for reasons probably combining economy,
ease and hygiene had turned against privately owned stabling as strongly as against the 'Kensington' house itself.
Conversion to bijou residences proceeded apace from
about 1913 on into the 1920s — sometimes in a version
of the Arts-and-Crafts style and sometimes in a rather
startingly outer-suburban Tudoresque style. The usual
complement of quasi-neo-Georgian rebuilding has not
been lacking, particularly, perhaps, in the Pembroke
Gardens area. Not much scope, however, has been offered
for the house-forms of the Modern Movement nor, in
1985, for those that have succeeded them.