HALLIWELL
Haliwell, 1246; Harywal, 1273; Halewell,
Haliwelle, 1277–8.
Halliwell is divided into two portions by a brook
which runs east into the Tonge; the southern portion, Halliwell proper, adjoins Bolton, of which it is
becoming a suburb; the north-western, Smithills, is
still rural. The whole has an area of 2,479½ acres. (fn. 1)
Halliwell proper has a breadth of about two miles;
the surface rises a little from east to west. Smithills
stretches about three miles in a north-westerly direction,
rising steadily from under 500 ft. to over 1,475, on
the border of Horwich. To the north of Deane Brook,
almost to the limit of the township towards Bolton,
the geological formation consists of the Millstone
Grit. The town of Halliwell and Smithills Hall lie
upon the Lower Coal Measures.
The principal road is that from Bolton to Horwich
and Chorley, on both sides of which dwelling-houses
are spreading; another road leads more northerly
through the Smithills portion.
The population in 1901 was 25,849, but this
includes Heaton also.
Halliwell has for a century been famous for its
bleach works; there are also cotton mills.
A local board was formed in 1863. (fn. 2) In 1877
part of the township was taken into the borough of
Bolton. In 1894 a separate civil parish was formed
for Smithills, but four years later this also was absorbed.
Tokens issued in 1652 and 1666 are extant. (fn. 3)
In the latter year seventy-five hearths were assessed
to the tax; the manor-house at Smithills (Sir Rowland Bellasyse) had nineteen hearths, but no other
dwelling had more than four. (fn. 4)
Manors
The manor of HALLIWELL was
originally a member of the lordship of
Barton, (fn. 5) and seems at first to have been
part of the possessions of the Pendlebury family. (fn. 6)
William son of Roger de Pendlebury in 1289 granted
to Richard son and heir of David de Hulton the
whole vill of Halliwell with its appurtenances, with
the homages of Robert de Shoresworth and Hugh de
Halliwell for the lands they held; an annual rent of
a silver penny was payable. (fn. 7) In 1302 it was held by
Richard de Hulton of the lord of Manchester by the
tenth part of a knight's fee. (fn. 8) Three oxgangs of land
here contributed to the sustenance of the foresters of
Horwich. (fn. 9) In 1325–6 Richard de Hulton granted
to his brother John land in Hulton and Westhoughton, (fn. 10) and this is supposed to be the John de Hulton
of Halliwell, whose son and heir Richard was in 1351
contracted to marry Margery daughter of Adam the
Ward of Sharples. (fn. 11) Nothing further is known of
this branch of the Hulton family, but in 1473 Robert
Hulton held the lordship of Halliwell by the ancient
service. (fn. 12) Adhering to the Yorkist side his lands
were confiscated in 1487 and conferred by Henry VII
on the Earl of Derby. (fn. 13) The manor descended regularly for a century; in 1601 it was held by Edward
Stanley. (fn. 14) About that time it seems to have been
sold, part going to Robert Marsh of Halliwell, (fn. 15) whose
son-in-law Samuel Shipton, clerk, was in possession in
1638; (fn. 16) afterwards it descended to Samuel Aspinall, (fn. 17)
and then disappears from notice. (fn. 18)
SMITHILLS was held by the Hospitallers, and
appears to have been held under them by the Hulton
family, passing with the manor of Blackburn to the
Raddiffes in 1335. (fn. 19) The Radcliffes of Smithills
occur during the 15th century, having made the
place their chief manor. (fn. 20) Sir Ralph Radcliffe, the
third of the same name in succession, dying about
1460, (fn. 21) the estates went to the heir male, Ralph son
of Sir Ralph's brother Edmund; and he leaving a
daughter and heir Cecily, they passed to her husband
John Barton of Holme, near Newark, (fn. 22) and they and
their descendants retained possession until the 18th
century.
John Barton, having made a settlement of his
manors and lands in 1514, and seen his son Andrew
married to Anne or Agnes daughter of Sir William
Stanley of Hooton, renounced the world, and in July
1516 entered the monastery of the Observant Friars
at Richmond in Surrey, and was there professed. (fn. 23)
Andrew Barton added a moiety of the manor of
Oswaldtwisle (fn. 24) to the family possessions, recorded a
pedigree at the visitation of 1533, (fn. 24a) and died in
1549, leaving a son and heir Robert, then twentyfour years of age. (fn. 25) Robert Barton, who succeeded,
was the justice to whom George Marsh surrendered
in 1554; the story went that Marsh, in his emphatic
denial that his teaching was heretical, stamped so
forcibly on the hall pavement at Smithills that the
mark of his foot remained in the stone. (fn. 26) Robert
Barton dying childless in 1580, (fn. 27) the manors went to
his brother Ralph, reader in Gray's Inn. Ralph,
who died in 1592, (fn. 28) was succeeded by his son Randle (fn. 29)
and grandson Sir Thomas. (fn. 30)
Grace, the daughter and heir of Sir Thomas,
married Henry Belasyse son of Thomas, first Viscount
Fauconberg. (fn. 31) Henry died during his father's lifetime, leaving among others two sons, Thomas, second
Viscount and first Earl Fauconberg, who died without issue in 1700; (fn. 32) and Sir Rowland Belasyse, who
seems to have resided at Smithills, (fn. 33) and whose son
Thomas in 1700 succeeded his uncle as third viscount. (fn. 34)
Thomas, his son, the fourth viscount, sold Smithills
in 1722 to the Byroms of Manchester. (fn. 35) About a
hundred years later it was purchased by Richard
Ainsworth, owner of extensive bleach works in the
neighbourhood, (fn. 36) and has descended to his grandson,
Colonel Richard Henry Ainsworth, the present
owner.

Barton. Azure a fesse between three harts' heads caboshed or.

Belasyse, Viscount Fauconberg. Argent a cheveron gules between three fleurs de lis azure.
Smithills Hall stands on high ground 2 miles
north-west of Bolton, on the slopes of the moors from
which the town takes its name which, less than
2 miles away, attain a height of over 1,200 ft. The
hall itself is situated just above the 500 ft. contour
line, well outside the town radius, protected by trees
on the north and set in picturesque grounds, but with
a view southwards from the house embracing the
smoke and chimneys of Bolton. The site is a
naturally defensive one, being close to the junction
of two streams, one the Astley Brook, a quarter of
a mile to the south, and the other the Raveden Brook,
more immediately to the east. (fn. 37) The other sides
were protected by a moat which existed at no very
remote period, and the moors behind the house would
form a natural protection in that direction.
There is a tradition of a house on the present site
as far back as the year 680, and that date is rather
humorously carved on a stone over the door to the
great hall, (fn. 38) but the oldest part of the present building
probably belongs to the early part of the 15th century, and may be even later. The rest of the house
is of different dates continually altered and added to.
The western part has been so much altered that it is
difficult to reconstruct the original plan, but the north
and east wings of the older part of the house yet
constitute one of the most interesting examples of
timber construction in Lancashire, though much
changed in appearance by later additions in stone.
With its modern extensions at the west, the house,
which is of two stories, has a long frontage facing south
of over 270 ft., well broken up both as regards plan
and skyline, and forming a composition of great picturesqueness. The walls are variously of stone and
timber, these materials being used in the modern
work, and all the roofs have stone slates. Almost the
whole of the walling to the old part of the house,
however, has been restored or otherwise renewed,
whether in stone or timber and plaster, but portions
of the ancient construction are preserved and show in
several places. The greatest part of the ancient work,
however, is best seen from the inside.

Plan of Smithills Hall (The modern west wing is not shown)
The oldest part of the house lies to the east and is
built on three sides of a quadrangle about 60 ft. wide
and 70 ft. from north to south, open on the south
side. The great hall occupies the north wing, with
the great chamber at its east end, and the kitchen and
offices on the west. The east wing, containing the
family apartments, terminates at the south with the
domestic chapel, approached by a corridor next the
courtyard. The staircase is in the north-east angle,
forming an external bay with a gable facing west.
Between the chapel and the great chamber is a large
room, possibly a withdrawing - room, with a large
bay window looking east. The north and east wings
being no longer inhabited retain the original characteristics of the ancient plan, though much altered
from time to time; but the old west wing has been so
much modernized that the original arrangement of
rooms has been to a great extent lost, though the
kitchen and offices occupy pretty much their old
position. The house seems to have been extended
westward beyond this at different times, but chiefly
probably about the year 1579, (fn. 39) by the addition of
stone gabled wing facing south, which now forms
the central portion of the main front. The whole
of the building west of this again, with frontages both
north and south, is modern work executed within the
last twenty-five years, (fn. 40) but in harmony with the
older parts.
The original house seems to have been confined to
the three sides of the existing quadrangle, there being
no indications of buildings having existed on the
south side, except that a former gateway which stood
at the south end of the west wing would seem to
suggest that the courtyard might have been inclosed
all round, or was intended to be so. It existed,
however, in this position (where the south end of
the modern drawing-room now is, immediately opposite
the west door of the chapel) till a comparatively
recent time, and is so shown in old illustrations of the
house. (fn. 41)

Smithills Hall, East Side of Quadrangle
Against this, however, must be quoted Nathaniel
Hawthorne's description of the place in his notebooks, 25 Aug. 1855, in which he says: 'The house
formerly stood around all four sides of a quadrangle,
enclosing a court, and with an entrance through an
enclosure. One side of this quadrangle was removed
in the time of the present Mr. Ainsworth's father,
and the front is now formed of the remaining three
sides.'
Very little of the black and white work facing the
quadrangle is original, and much of it—the quatrefoil
panel to the great hall and the gable in the northeast corner facing south—is paint on plaster. On the
west of the quadrangle it is all modern, and only that
on the east wing between the chapel and the great
hall has any semblance of old work. The walls on
the north and east are of stone up to half their height,
above which is a wide band of quatrefoils with a
cove above under the eaves. The west wing was
originally built without any corridor, but in the
17th century a passage was made on the first floor
supported on an arcade of oak columns, forming a
verandah to the lower rooms. This has been retained,
and in a reconstructed form is one of the most picturesque features of the courtyard.
The great hall, which is 34 ft. 6 in. long (including
the screens) by 25 ft. wide, has been a very fine
apartment, but is now much mutilated, though fortunately the screen and original open-timber roof still
remain, and the restoration of the room to its original
appearance would not be difficult. Towards the end
of the 18th century the hall was used as a brewhouse,
and the outer walls are then supposed to have been
raised and a new roof of flatter pitch was added above
the old one, the original ridge-line being retained. (fn. 42)
A floor was probably also inserted, but the hall is now
open to the roof for a little more than half its length
at the east end, the present floor being over the
screens and the first bay beyond—a distance of about
16 ft. From the evidence of the timber framing of
the roof and screens the hall would appear to have
been erected during the first half of the 15th century, (fn. 43) and therefore before the Bartons came to
Smithills, but the original timber-framed walls seem
to have been rebuilt in stone about a century later.
The walls have been again largely rebuilt in recent
times and are about 3 ft. thick to their original height,
above which they are set back on the inside. All the
windows are modern, replacing older square-headed
ones of plainer type. The screens are at the west
end and the dais at the east, but a brick wall and the
floor above at the west effectually hide from view the
old arrangement at that end. The screen or 'speeres,'
is however still in position, and the passage way
remains intact with its original oak outer door, at
each end and a stone porch on the north, and with the
three usual openings (two of which are built up)
opposite to the hall, leading to the kitchen passage,
buttery, and pantry. The 'speeres' stand 4 ft. 6 in.
from the walls, on a low stone base, with octagonal
angle posts 12 in. in diameter having moulded caps,
from which the curved braces forming the underside
of the principal spring. The roof (which is about
27 ft. to the ridge) is divided into five bays of unequal size, the disposition of the principals giving a
short bay at each end (6 ft. over screens and 4 ft.
over dais), and in the centre, with larger bays of
8 ft. between. The two central coupled principals
probably indicate the presence of a louvre, as there is
no fireplace in the hall or sign of there having been
one. The timbers of the roof are very massive and
plain, the chief ornament consisting of shaped wind
braces forming quatrefoil panelling along the whole
length. At the east end of the room the original
timber construction of the wall behind the dais remains,
but the dais and canopy over have disappeared. The
roof over the short eastern bay is modern. The
whole of the wall west of the screens preserves its
ancient timber construction and is enriched with
curved braces to its full height, those in the upper part
forming large quatrefoil panels. The roof of the
hall is carried on stone corbels about 10 ft. from the
floor, one of which is carved with an eight-leaved
rose. One of the middle principals, however, is
continued on the south side down to the floor, which
was most likely the case with the others before the
rebuilding of the walls in stone. The west end of
the hall between the 'speeres' was probably occupied
by a standing screen and without a minstrels'
gallery, but there are traces of one having been
inserted later, the floor of which would probably be
about the height of the present modern floor over
the screens. (fn. 44)

Smithills Hall, East Side
The great chamber at the east end of the hall is
now cut up and hardly recognizable, but was formerly
a room 33 ft. long by 14 ft. 6 in. wide with windows
north and south and a large fireplace on the east side,
all of which features still remain though difficult to
distinguish. The ceiling is low and crossed by four
moulded beams and a single one its full length forming ten square panels, and there is a room over. The
window at the south end under the gable facing the
quadrangle is an original square-headed one with
moulded wood mullions and diamond quarries.
Beyond the great chamber a small lobby marks the
junction of the north and east wings, with a door to
a small open court on the north. From this court
some external timber construction can be seen on the
north and west sides, together with the massive stone
chimney of the great chamber—one of the few parts
of the building that have not been much restored.
On the floor of the lobby itself is shown the footprint
of George Marsh, the Protestant martyr, carefully
preserved under a grating.
The large room at the north end of the east wing
may have been used as a dining-room after the abandonment of the great hall, or possibly as a withdrawing-room. It is 33 ft. in length and 19 ft. wide, and
at its south-east corner is a large bay window 11 ft.
square separated from the room by an arched opening
with carved spandrels. The great distance of the
room from the kitchen is rather against its having
been used as a banqueting hall, though there appears
to have been a doorway to a cellar (at a lower level)
at the north-east end. The ceiling is divided into
four bays by three richly moulded oak beams with
moulded brackets supported on wood corbels and longitudinally by three smaller beams, similarly moulded,
making twelve squares, each square being enriched by
moulded joists about a foot apart. The ceiling of the
bay is boarded, with thin moulded ribs nailed on
forming a star-shaped panelling. The bay itself
preserves its old timber construction, and goes up two
stories, finishing in a gable; but the windows are only
old on the north and south sides, where the original
diamond quarries and moulded mullions and transoms
remain. (fn. 45) On the east the window frame is modern with
square chamfered detail and large square quarries. The
north and east walls of the room have been rebuilt in
brick, but the west and south walls show the old
timber and plaster construction, but are otherwise
plain. The fireplace on the east side and the windows near it are modern. Originally the room was
richly panelled in oak, (fn. 46) and must have presented a
very handsome appearance, but a good deal of the
oak panelling is now in the modern dining-room on
the other side of the house. The room over was
called the Green Chamber, and is that in which the
examination of George Marsh is said to have been
held.
The domestic chapel is 42 ft. long and 21 ft wide
at the west end, tapering to 18 ft. at the east. In
1856 a fire did much damage, entirely destroying the
roof and all the furniture, and the interior has therefore little archaeological interest, all the fittings being
modern. The entrance from the house corridor is at
the north-west corner, and there is a door at the
west end opening to the garden. There is a large
square-headed mullioned and transomed window at
each end, three smaller windows of three and four
lights in the south side, and one of four lights at
the east end of the north side. The coloured glass
is all new, except in the east window, where portions of the original heraldic glass are preserved,
with the Stanley arms and badge conspicuous among
them.
On the north side, separated from it by a wall,
a room was formerly used as a vestry, (fn. 47) 18 ft. by
14 ft., above which, open to the chapel, was the
family pew approached by a door from the corridor above. The vestry has now been thrown into
the chapel as a kind of transept, and the pew turned
into a gallery. The chapel is still used for public
worship.
The rooms in the ancient west wing have been
wholly modernized and have no particular interest.
They consist of an ante-room and a modern drawingroom of irregular shape, with a narrow staircase on
the west side adjoining the fireplace, which, carried
up with an external timber gable next to the chimney,
makes a rather happy feature in the garden front.
In the ante-room is a good carved oak mantel with
the date 1694 and the initials A.B. West of these the
house is more or less modern, the 17th-century additions which immediately adjoin the old west wing
having been a good deal reconstructed and restored.
The dining-room and library, however, are interesting
rooms on account of their oak wainscot, that of the
dining-room being, as before stated, the original
panelling from the later hall on the other side of the
house. It consists chiefly of long linen pattern panels,
with square panels below and an elaborate cornice above.
On the west wall is a series of fourteen panels
carved in the top part with heads within circles, and
below with various designs, four having the Barton
oak leaf and acorn, three the buck's head, two a
molet, and the rest various patterns of interlaced work.
A central additional panel has the sacred monogram
" I.H.S." as an interlaced pattern under an ogee
head. (fn. 48) The library adjoining (between the dining
and drawing-rooms), is also elaborately fitted up with
black oak but mostly of later date than that of the
dining-room, the detail being of very pronounced
renaissance type, and consisting of scriptural and other
subjects with quaint inscriptions. The wall between
the library and the ante-room contains an old fireplace
now built up and completely hidden, and north of
the library is a room lit from the ceiling, now called
the dome-room, which is in the site of a former open
area. It has a good carved oak 17th-century mantel
and door, (fn. 49) and contains a sideboard dated 1642.
The rooms on the first floor have no points of
interest.
Externally the north front of the house is almost
entirely modern, the only old portions being at the
east end, where some of the old stone windows and a
moulded string-course remain. The east elevation is
the least altered, showing as it does the old timber
and plaster bay and gable over in an almost unrestored
condition.
The gardens lie on the south and east of the house,
a terrace wall extending along the whole length of
the south and east fronts, the coping of which is on a
level with the grass of the lawn so as to keep the view
over the park uninterrupted from the ground-floor
windows. The terrace staircase enhances the general
effect of the external elevation by increasing its height,
and the long terrace walk, which is 15 ft. wide and
extends the full length of the south front, is below
the level of the lawn. At its west end is a raised
mound approached by three flights of steps.
Egburden, later Egbert Dene, seems to have
included the whole north-western part of Halliwell,
known as Smithills Dene and Smithills Moor. (fn. 50) It
was part of the lands of the barons of Manchester, (fn. 51)
and was held of them by the Bartons of Smithills. (fn. 52)
In addition to the Hospitallers the Canons of
Cockersand had land in alms in Halliwell. (fn. 53)
The local surname occurs. (fn. 54) Richard Lees was a
freeholder in 1600. (fn. 55) Adam Mort of Astley (fn. 56) and
others are recorded to have held lands here in the
times of Charles I. (fn. 57)
William Swinburne, a Halliwell recusant, in 1653
petitioned to be allowed to contract for his sequestered
estate. (fn. 58)
The principal landowner in 1788 was Miss Byrom,
others being Roger Dewhurst, — Aspinall, and
Escrick. (fn. 59)
The most notable man springing from the township is the George Marsh, already mentioned, who
was condemned and burnt to death at Chester on
24 April 1555 for teaching Protestant doctrines, and
refusing to compromise. (fn. 60)
In recent times several places of worship have been
erected in the township. For the Established Church
St. Peter's was built in 1840, (fn. 61) followed by St. Paul's
in 1848; (fn. 62) in 1874 and 1875 respectively St. Luke's (fn. 63)
and St. Thomas's (fn. 64) were added. The patronage is in
the hands of trustees, except in the case of St. Paul's,
to which Colonel R. H. Ainsworth presents. There
is a chapel at Smithills, (fn. 65) and a Wesleyan chapel at
Delph Hill.
The Roman Catholic church of St. Joseph, which
originated in 1881, was opened in 1900. (fn. 66)