KIRKBY IRELETH
Gerleworde, Dom. Bk.
Kyrkeby, c. 1160.
Kirkeby Irelith, c. 1200; Kyerkelith, 1201;
Kyrkeby Yrlith, 1227. The local pronunciation is
Kirby Irleth.
As there is an Ireleth adjacent to this township at
the north end of Dalton, the name may anciently
have been applied to the district, the northern half
being distinguished as Kirkby Ireleth on a division.
The modern postal name is Kirkby-in-Furness. The
whole township has an area of 9,702½ acres (fn. 1) and has
five customary divisions: Low Quarter, beside the
Duddon estuary, 2,571½ acres; Middle Quarter, to
the north, 1,047 acres; Heathwaite, 1,393 acres;
Woodland, which has a detached part at the extreme
north end, 1,315 acres; and Kirkby Moor, a narrow
strip along the hills which bound the township on the
east, 3,376 acres. The parish church stands at
Beckside in Low Quarter, close to the boundary of
Middle Quarter. The population of the whole was
1,477 in 1901.
Beckside hamlet is nearly a mile from the shore,
being hidden from it by a slight hill, at the western
foot of which is Sandside. Further south are the
hamlets of Soutergate, Bank House and Gargreave.
The surface on the east rises towards the hills.
Middle Quarter is more hilly, but has level ground
near Kirkby Pool, which bounds it on the west; about
the centre is the hamlet called Chapels; Hallsteads is
further north; and Grizebeck and Beanthwaite on
the border of Heathwaite. This is a district of hills,
divided by valleys opening from south-west to northeast; in its north-west corner is an open tract of
moss-land. There are several extensive woods in
this quarter. Woodland also is hilly, with some
scattered woods, and has level and open land along
Steers Pool, the boundary on the west. The chapel
is about the centre, with Th;;rnthwaite to the south,
Raisthwaite and Green Moor to the east and northeast; the detached part to the north is a wood called
Haverigg Holme. Kirkby Moor, as stated, is the
fell country at the back of the township; the peaks
and spurs, rising in places to over 1,000 ft., are
divided by many valleys, and contain circles, cairns
and other signs of the primitive inhabitants.
The principal road is that north from Dalton
through Soutergate and Grizebeck to Broughton. It
has a branch to the shore at Sandside and to Beckside
eastward, ascending the hills to cross to Ulverston.
From this road grand views are obtained over the
Duddon valley in ascending, and over the Ulverston
plain and Morecambe Kay in descending to the
east. At Grizebeck it is continued north through
Woodland, and has a branch east to Lowick and
Spark Bridge. The Furness railway line runs north
along the shore, and has a station at Sandside called
Kirkby.
The principal industry is that of slate quarrying,
the hard blue slate of the hills on the east side having
long been in great demand. The soil is gravel with
subsoil of stone and slate, and the agricultural land is
chiefly in pasture.
The township is governed by a parish council of
ten members.
The cross which gave its name to Crosshouse, the
old residence of the lords of the manor, is said to
have been destroyed by Archbishop Sandys; there
were traces of it till recently. (fn. 2)
Manor
In 1066 KIRKBY IRELETH seems to
have been part of Earl Tostig's Hougun
lordship. (fn. 3) It was in the king's hands in
1086, and in 1127 was included in Stephen's grant
of a moiety of Furness to found the abbey, so that
the immediate lords were afterwards stated to hold of
the abbots. The pedigree of the Kirkby family can
be traced to Orm son of Ailward or Eiward, to
whom, as formerly stated, Albert Grelley, lord of
Manchester, granted a knight's fee in Wrightington,
&c, in marriage with his daughter Emma. (fn. 4) Roger
son of Orm had a confirmation of Ashton and of
Heaton, near Lancaster, from a later Albert Grelley,
about 1160. (fn. 5) As Roger de Kirkby he attested a
somewhat earlier grant of land in Copeland to Furness
Abbey. (fn. 6) William de Lancaster granted Dunnerdale
and Seathwaite to Roger, and the gift was confirmed
by William's son William to William son of Roger
probably about 1175. (fn. 7) The same William son of
Roger released to the Abbot of Furness all claim to
the advowson of the church at Kirkby. (fn. 8) From this
time the descent of the manor is clear. (fn. 9)
Roger de Kirkby, who was the son of William,
was about 1200 accused of being concerned in the
death of Matthew son of Simon, and offered the
king 50 marks and two chasours to be allowed his
liberty on giving pledges to stand his trial if summoned. (fn. 10) He occurs again in 1212 (fn. 11) and probably
died about ten years later, his son Alexander being
defendant in 1225. (fn. 12) In 1227 Alexander de Kirkby
released to the Abbot of Furness his claim to the
advowson of the church (fn. 13) and also to 4 oxgangs of
land in Kirkby. (fn. 14) In 1252 he granted the monks a
part of Stephengarths adjoining their grange of
Dunnerholme. (fn. 15) His younger son John was in possession in 1257 (fn. 16) and died about 1284, (fn. 17) leaving a
son Alexander, (fn. 18) whose son and heir John de Kirkby
was a minor in 1291, (fn. 19) his wardship being claimed
by the Abbot of Furness. The abbot alleged that
the manor was held of him by homage and fealty, the
service of 30s. a year, ploughing, reaping, entertaining
the abbot's grith-serjeant, doing suit at the court of
his barony of Furness at Dalton from three weeks to
three weeks and rendering a relief, if of full age, of
100s. (fn. 20) The jury refused to acknowledge the right
of wardship, it being asserted that Kirkby, Pennington
and Aldingham were exceptions in this respect, and
John de Kirkby was placed in possession. (fn. 21)
In 1300 John son of Alexander de Kirkby gave
his manors of Kirkby Ireleth and Dunnerdale to
Robert de Lathom, probably as trustee (fn. 22) ; and later
in the year they were restored to the same John and
Margery his wife, with remainders to their issue and
to the heirs of John. (fn. 23) Sir John de Kirkby acquired
lands (fn. 24) and died about 1336, (fn. 25) his widow Margery
appearing as defendant in that year. (fn. 26) His son,
another Sir John, lived on till about 1382 and many
of his deeds are on record. (fn. 27) One of the first, in
1337, was the procuring of a royal charter for free
warren in his demesne lands
of Kirkby and Dunnerdale
and for the inclosure of 500
acres of land, wood and moor
there in order to make parks. (fn. 28)
In 1349 he did homage to
the abbot, under protest that
his act was not to prejudice
the verdict his father had obtained in 1292. (fn. 29) He made
a settlement of his manors of
Kirkby and Dunnerdale in
1363, with remainders to
Richard son of John, Robert
son of Richard and Thomas
brother of Sir John. (fn. 30) He added to the family
possessions. (fn. 31) A drawing of his seal has been preserved. (fn. 32)

Kirkby of Kirkby. Argent two bars gules on a canton of the last a cross moline or.
Sir Richard, his son and heir, is named as early as
1356 (fn. 33) and held the manors till about 1425. (fn. 34) His
eldest son Alexander, who married Isabel daughter of
Sir Thomas Tunstall, died about 1402, leaving an
infant daughter Isabel. (fn. 35) This led to a number of
settlements for the benefit of Sir Richard's sons. (fn. 36)
Isabel married Robert son and heir of Sir Robert
Ogle, (fn. 37) a Yorkisr, who was summoned to Parliament
as Lord Ogle in 1461 (fn. 38) and retained the manors till
her death about 1474, (fn. 39) though she is said to have
sold her right of inheritance in 1434–5 to Roger
Kirkby, Sir Richard's second son. (fn. 40) Roger was succeeded by a son and heir Richard, (fn. 41) who left sons
Henry and Richard. (fn. 42) The father as a Lancastrian
was convicted of treason in 1461, (fn. 43) but the attainder
was afterwards (1485) reversed and his estates allowed
to his son Henry. (fn. 44)
Henry Kirkby fought at 'the Scottish Field,' i.e.
Flodden, and was wounded. (fn. 45) He died in 1524
holding the manor of Kirkby in Furness with
messuages called Crosshouse, &c, of Furness Abbey
by knight's service; his heir was his brother Richard,
aged forty. (fn. 46) This brother seems to have been a
violent man and his attempt to gain possession of the
estates led to a brawl in Kirkby Church, which was
stayed by the intervention of the parish priest with
the Sacrament and of various honest persons; but the
priest took off his vestments and refused to say mass. (fn. 47)
Richard Kirkby did homage to the Abbot of Furness
for the manor in 1533. (fn. 48) He died in 1547 holding
the manor of Kirkby with messuages, lands, woods,
mills, &c, there of the king as of the late monastery
of Furness by the service of one knight's fee; he had
lands also in Broughton, Dunnerdale and Wrightington. His son and heir John was only three
years old. (fn. 49) John Kirkby died in 1551 and the
heir was found to be his kinsman Henry Kirkby,
fifty years of age. (fn. 50) He had married Anne
daughter of the last Richard Kirkby, (fn. 51) and at his
death in 1566 left a son Roger, aged thirty-six.
The manor of Kirkby, with lands there and in
Torver and Dunnerdale, was said to be held of the
queen as of her manor of Furness by the tenth part
of a knight's fee. (fn. 52) A survey of the bounds was made
about that time. (fn. 53)
Roger made a settlement of his manors in 1582, (fn. 54)
and was still living in 1613, when a pedigree was
recorded. (fn. 55) His eldest son Richard having died in
1587, leaving a son Roger, aged five, (fn. 56) this Roger
succeeded his grandfather, and was about 1627
followed by his son, another Roger, (fn. 57) who died in
1643. This last Roger Kirkby was returned for
Lancaster in the Short Parliament of 1640 (fn. 58) and
for the county in the Long Parliament later in the
same year. As a Royalist he was disabled from
sitting in August 1642 (fn. 59) and soon afterwards removed
from the list of justices. (fn. 60) In December he was
acting as one of Lord Derby's council in Lancashire,
being appointed one of the collectors of the subsidy
in Lonsdale Hundred (fn. 61) and having charge of Lancaster Castle. (fn. 62) In the summer of 1643 he organized
the Royalists of Cartmel and Furness, intending to
relieve Thurland Castle, (fn. 63) but seems to have died
before any fighting took place. His son Richard,
about sixteen years of age, succeeded, and, taking arms
against the Parliament, had his estates sequestered.
He soon surrendered, taking the Negative Oath in
November 1645 and the National Covenant the
following August, when he made his petition. He
was allowed to compound for a fine of £750 but had
also to settle £75 a year on the minister of Hawkshead, he being the lay rector. (fn. 64) He survived the
Restoration and it is said he was named as one of the
proposed knights of the Royal Oak (fn. 65) ; he served as
member for the borough of Lancaster from 1660 till
1681, (fn. 66) and recorded a pedigree in 1664. (fn. 67)
Colonel Richard Kirkby died 9 September 1681, (fn. 68)
and was succeeded by his son Roger, born about 1650.
Roger Kirkby also succeeded his father in the representation of Lancaster, 1685 to 1702, being regarded
as a Tory. (fn. 69) He made a feoffment of his manors in
1689, (fn. 70) and mortgaged Kirkby to a London banker,
agent to Catherine Duchess of Buckingham, who
acquired it on her agent's insolvency. She left it to
her grandson Constantine Phipps, (fn. 71) created Lord
Mulgrave in 1767, and he in 1771 sold it to Lord
John Cavendish, son of the third Duke of Devonshire. The heir male of Roger Kirkby, who owned
Ashlack, was the nominal lord of the manor, but
found it so encumbered that he could not clear it,
and therefore passed away all right in it. (fn. 72) After
Lord John's death (fn. 73) in 1796 the manor became
united with the Furness Abbey and Holker estates of
the Cavendish family and has since descended in the
same way. A chief rent is paid to the Earl of
Dalkeith as lord of Furness.
A court baron is held for the manor. The customs
of the manor (fn. 74) were thus described in 1774: Each
tenant on admittance paid the lord twenty years' rent
as a fine; a widow during widowhood was entitled
to half her husband's tenement; the tenant forfeited
all to the lord for treason or felony, while for wilful
perjury he paid twenty years' rent and for petty
larceny ten years' rent. No one could let his land
for more than seven years without the lord's permission. Every entire tenement had formerly been
obliged to keep a horse furnished for the king's
service, and to give as a boon a day's ploughing and
harrowing. (fn. 75)
KIRKBY HALL, (fn. 76) originally known as the Crosshouse, stands about a mile to the north of Beckside
village on an eminence gently sloping to the south,
from which side it is approached through a modern
avenue of beeches and sycamores leading to an open
space in front of the house. The building, now a
farm-house, is of two stories, with rough-cast walls,
cylindrical chimneys and slated roofs, and externally
is of little architectural interest, the windows being
all low mullioned openings without transoms, and
the roof at the south, or principal, front having an
unbroken ridge with overhanging eaves and a hip at
the west end, which gives the house a rather undistinguished appearance. The plan, however, is
interesting. The hall occupies the middle of the
house with a parlour or withdrawing room at the
west end, to the north of which is a smaller room,
forming a north-west wing under a lower gabled
roof. The east wing, which is set at an irregular
angle to the front and goes back about 60 ft., contains
the kitchen and other rooms on the ground floor and
may be the oldest part of the house, (fn. 77) and attached
to it at the north end is a small wing running eastward of two stories, which was at one time accessible
both from the kitchen and from the room above.
To the south-west of the front is a detached building
measuring externally 32 ft. by 24 ft., now cut up for
farm purposes and a good deal modernized, standing
at a different angle, the original use of which can
now scarcely be determined. The south front is
76 ft. in length, with low mullioned windows to
both stories and a doorway with depressed fourcentred red sandstone arch and splayed and moulded
jambs. The door opens to the east end of the
hall by a passage, at the north end of which is
a circular oak staircase. The partition is modern,
but apparently takes the place of an older screen.
The hall measures about 25 ft. by 24 ft. up to the
partition and is lit on the south side by two windows,
one of three lights and the other a bay 8 ft. wide by
5 ft. 6 in. deep, of four lights and one on each return,
in the south-west corner. There is also a single-light
window, now blocked up, in the north-east corner,
and on the north side a fireplace opening 9 ft. wide
with segmental arch. From the hall a door opens in
the south-west corner to the parlour or withdrawing
room, now divided into two by a partition, but
originally 24 ft. by 12 ft. 6 in., lit at the south end
by a window of four lights and by a widely splayed
opening in the west wall to the north of the fireplace. From the north-west corner of the hall an
oblique passage with hollow-chamfered doorway leads
to a small room now used as a dairy, 13 ft. 6 in. by
9 ft. 9 in., which has been lighted by at least two
windows, one only of which, in the north-west corner,
a narrow single light, now blocked up, retains its
dressings. The east wing contains three rooms on
the ground floor, the largest of which, on the north
side, measuring 22 ft. by 16 ft. 6 in., is the kitchen.
The fireplace opening at the north end is 11 ft. wide,
but is now built up and a modern range inserted.
In the west face of the chimney recess a small door
opens into a closet 5 ft. by 3 ft. in the thickness of
the wall, lit by a small window now blocked up, and
there is a closet about 9 ft. long on the first floor
immediately above. The kitchen is lit by a window
on the east side, but there are also a narrow window at
the north-west corner and a doorway immediately
opposite, leading to the later north-east wing, both
of which are built up. The south end of the
east wing is occupied by an irregularly shaped room
18 ft. 6 in. by 13ft. 6 in. lighted by a three-light
window to the front, and between this and the
kitchen is a small room, now used as a coal cellar,
originally lit by two narrow windows on the east
side, one high up in the wall and oblique. (fn. 78) The
staircase is 8 ft. in diameter with solid treads round
a plain wood newel and is lighted from the outside
and by a narrow opening to the kitchen at the first
half-turn.

Plan of Kirkby Hall
The upper floors are at different levels, the hall
being higher than the other ground floor rooms in
the end wings. The front room of the east wing
contains a fireplace with depressed four-centred arch,
over which is a plaster panel with floral ornamentation and originally a shield with the arms of Kirkby,
the mantling and cap of maintenance of which alone
remain. Behind this room and over the 'coal cellar'
is a small chamber known as the Skull Room, in
which some niches are pointed out in the wall in
which human skulls, the legend of which is now
forgotten, are said to have stood. Over the hall are
two bedrooms and a passage, the bedrooms divided
by a partition said to have been formerly covered
by oak panelling. (fn. 79)
The west wing had originally a gable to the front,
facing down the avenue, the present hipped roof, the
west slope of which is continued straight up till it
joins the main roof above the hall, being quite modern.
The upper floor was occupied by the chapel, a room
26 ft. by 14 ft., the flooring of which has been
removed and to which access can now only be obtained
by a trap-door in the ceiling of the passage or from
the roof above the bedrooms. There was formerly a
door to the west wing on the first floor in the corner
of the room above the passage from the hall to the
dairy, but this is now built up. The 'chapel' is
divided into two bays by a king-post roof truss, and
there is a three-light mullioned window at the south
end and another at the north. It has two oak-framed
doors, one of which on the east side led to the rooms
above the hall and the other on the north to a room
over the present dairy. The chapel, however, is
chiefly remarkable for its mural decoration, (fn. 80) which
consists of panels with birds, animals, texts and other
inscriptions, all painted on plaster. The walls, which
are 7 ft. high to the wall-plate, were probably at one
time painted all over, but only fragments of the
painting now remain, the east wall being the best
preserved. It contains the Lord's Prayer and the
Ten Commandments, with a decorated border dividing
and inclosing two panels, the border apparently at
one time having been continuous round the chapel.
On the south side was the Creed, and there are
remains of a text at the north end taken from
Cranmer's Great Bible of 1541. On the west side
the painting has been obliterated.

Kirkby Hall: South Front
In front of the house there is a small garden
inclosed by a fence wall, upon which is a loose
detached stone, two sides of which are carved with
the arms of Kirkby and Lowther, the shields joined
together at the angle by clasped hands, while on the
third side are the initials of Roger and Agnes Kirkby
with the date 1639, and on the fourth the initials of
eleven of their children, five sons and six daughter,
The stone, which may have formed part of a sundial,
was found in the farmyard.
There were some minor families taking their name from
Kirkby. (fn. 81) while others were surnamed from Ashlack, (fn. 82)
Heathwaite, (fn. 83) Thornthwaite (fn. 84) and other estates (fn. 85) of
which no continuous records exist.
ASHLACK HALL (fn. 86) stands about half a mile to
the north-east of Grizebeck village on high ground in
a sheltered hollow between the fells; which rise
almost immediately behind the house on the north
and west, the south side being open. The building,
now a farm-house, is of two stories with rough-cast
walls and slated roofs and is of late 16th or early
17th-century date, much modernized in the interior.
It is cruciform in plan, but the east wing consists of
stables and outbuildings, and the north limb, which
is short and broad, is the result of alterations about
the time of Charles II. The original building was
[capital L]-shaped, the longer or south wing measuring
50 ft. 6 in. in length to the interior angle and the
west wing 44 ft. All the windows in this portion
facing west and south, as well as those at the end of
the south wing, are the original low mullioned openings with external hood moulds, all of three lights,
with the exception of a two-light window over the
entrance, which is in the middle of the south wing,
facing west. The door is square-headed with hood
mould, and on a plaster panel above is the date 1667
with the initials of William Kirkby, but the date is
probably later than this part of the building and was
most likely put up at the time when the alterations
and additions were made on the north. These
consist of a large kitchen 20 ft. 6 in. by 18 ft. 3 in.,
which, with an adjacent staircase on the north-west,
forms the north limb of the cross, and an east wing
about 46 ft. in length, now used for farm purposes.
The north limb projects only about 11 ft. m face of
the main building, but has a frontage of 46 ft. The
gables are all quite plain and covered with roughcast and without barge-boards, and the chimneys
are of the cylindrical type common in the district.
The house is architecturally without much interest.
Originally the hall appears to have been at the north
end of the south wing, measuring about 25 ft. by
20 ft., lighted by a single window on the west and
with stairs leading from it on the east side between
two walls. In the south-east corner of the hall are
doors leading to two smaller rooms, one probably the
withdrawing room, 18 ft. square, divided from it by
a wall 6 ft. thick, and the other nearer the stairs, a
parlour 13 ft. square, below which are cellars lit by
original two-light windows. In the west wing are
two rooms divided by a wall 8 ft. thick, one of which
was probably the kitchen. The outer one, which is
21 ft. by 17 ft., is known as the Stone Parlour and is
now a dairy. The hall is now cut up with modern
walls and is reduced in size by the new additions,
which encroach on it at the north end, the new
kitchen chimney forming a mass of masonry 13 ft.
thick in the centre of the house. The additions are
loftier than the older parts of the building and the
walls are of less thickness. The north wing is lit by
tall wooden mullioned and transomed windows and
there are remains of blocked windows on the north
side of the west wing. The old entrance retains its
oak nail-studded door and there is some 18th-century
panelling in a large room over the kitchen, now
divided by partitions.

Plan of Ashlack Hall
Richard Dodgson and John Whinfield of Kirkby
and George Ashburner of Woodland were freeholders
in 1600. (fn. 87)
As above shown, Furness Abbey had land in
Kirkby. In 1300 the abbot complained of the cutting down of his trees. (fn. 88) In 1535 a rent of 5s. 6d.
was drawn from Soutergate. (fn. 89)
The parish church at Beckside has been described
above. The chapel at WOODLAND is of preReformation date, but its origin is unknown. (fn. 90) It
was served by a 'reader' in 1650; as it had no
endowment, the inhabitants contributed a small sum
yearly. (fn. 91) It had about £7 a year in 1717. (fn. 92)
The minister of Broughton in 1734 obtained the
Bishop of Chester's licence for the chapel of Woodland,
and going to it on the Sunday was opposed by Mr.
Holme, vicar of Kirkby Ireleth, by virtue of the Dean
of York's licence. Mr. Holme would not allow the
doors to be opened and took the key away with him.
At noon, however, the doors were opened—how is
not stated—and the minister of Broughton went in,
read the prayers and preached a sermon. (fn. 93) It may
perhaps be inferred that there was no regular service
at Woodland just then. The old chapel, rebuilt in
1689 and 1822, was replaced by the present church
of St. John the Evangelist in 1864. (fn. 94) The benefice
is styled a rectory (fn. 95) and the patronage is vested in
five trustees, of whom the Bishop of Carlisle is one.
The net annual value is stated to be £185. (fn. 96) At
Grizebeck is the church of the Good Shepherd,
opened in 1898, which serves as a chapel of ease.
The following have been incumbents:—
|
| — | John Kendall |
| 1821 | William Sandwith |
| 1851 | Edwin Gilpin |
| 1860 | Richard Palgrave Manclarke, M.A. (fn. 97) (Wadham Coll., Oxf.) |
| 1868 | Edwin Charles Shawfield (fn. 98) |
| 1893 | Henry Arthur Ditchett (fn. 99) |
| 1894 | James Park, B.A. (fn. 100) (Christ's Coll., Camb.) |
There is a Wesleyan Methodist chapel at Marshside. A Baptist chapel near St. Mary's Well in
Middle Quarter was opened about 1826. A new
chapel was built at Wall-end in 1876, but this is now
occupied by 'Christian Brethren,' who purchased the
old chapel and then moved to the new one. (fn. 101)