GUILDEN MORDEN
THE long, narrow parish of Guilden Morden, (fn. 1)
c. 13 km. south-west of Cambridge and covering
1,052 ha. (2,599 a.), (fn. 2) occupies the south-western extremity of Cambridgeshire. The river Cam or Rhee,
which rises at Ruddery Spring 3 km. south of the
village near the ancient Ashwell Street, forms the
western boundary of both county and parish with
Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire, (fn. 3) while the southern
one follows for 400 metres the line of the Icknield
Way, later the Baldock-Royston turnpike. From
there, where the parish has only a narrow tongue
under ½ km. wide, once occupied by the Cistercian
Odsey grange, Guilden Morden stretches north for
9 km. to Tadlow bridge across the Cam. It is separated from Steeple Morden to the east, from which
it was not fully distinct in 1086, (fn. 4) by a stream rising
near Ashwell Street and further south by field boundaries. It lies upon the Gault to the north and chalk
further south. The ground rises gently from under
30 metres by the Cam to the north, an area called
Morden fen in 1327, (fn. 5) to c. 40 metres around the village and 60 metres just south of Ashwell Street. Odsey
lies rather higher on a west sloping plateau at over
75 metres. Since the Middle Ages the parish economy
has been based mainly on farming, conducted before
inclosure in 1801 upon a triennial rotation.
Upon a slight eminence just south of Ashwell
Street was a Romano-British cemetery, partly eaten
away by the village clunch pit. Over 180 burials of
the 1st to 4th centuries A.D. there indicate a substantial settlement nearby, (fn. 6) perhaps linked with a
villa standing 400 metres north-west. (fn. 7) The AngloSaxons perhaps settled the comparatively waterless
Guilden Morden later than Steeple Morden, but
the former, with 51 peasants in 1086, (fn. 8) was then
slightly the larger village, though less populous than
its neighbour after 1350. The names of c. 130 tenants
survive from 1279. (fn. 9) From the late 14th century to
the late 16th the population remained fairly stable.
In 1327 32 people paid the subsidy, (fn. 10) and in 1347
58 owned wool. (fn. 11) There were 222 adults in 1377, (fn. 12)
59 taxpayers in 1524, (fn. 13) and 54 households in 1563. (fn. 14)
Numbers perhaps rose by over half between 1600
and the 1630s, probably then falling by over 100 by
the 1660s before stabilizing again. (fn. 15) In 1660 178
adult residents paid a poll-tax. (fn. 16) Under Charles II
there were 80 or more households, (fn. 17) and in 1676 224
adults. (fn. 18) In 1728 85 families comprised c. 330 people.
From the 1760s the population rose steadily to reach
428 by 1801. Thereafter it grew by 9 a year on average in the 1810s and 13 in the 1830s to 929 in 1851.
Despite a slight drop c. 1860 the coprolite diggings
of the 1860s reduced emigration, and numbers stood
at 1,059 in 1871, falling again by 100 by 1881. In the
1910s the decline briefly halted at c. 660, but resumed
after 1914, and by 1931 the population at 533 was
lower than in 1821. After 1950 it grew very slowly
to 590 in 1971. (fn. 19)
The main settlements lay in the wider northern
section of the parish. (fn. 20) From the church a short
street ran south-west to meet, south of Pound Green,
a road past the site of the manor house that formed
a long, winding high street. After a short gap in
building still visible in the 1970s the street ran on
south for 800 metres through the 'South End',
mentioned in 1556, (fn. 21) to the Town's End, so named
by 1625. (fn. 22) In the mid 19th century there were c. 40
houses along Church Street, over 20 at Pound Green,
and c. 50 along the high street further south. Northeast of the main village were groups of dwellings at
Great Green and Little Green, the latter recorded
in 1699 (fn. 23) and perhaps, as Little End, in 1689. (fn. 24)
About 1850 there were 15–20 dwellings at each, but
they later shrank until in the 1970s there were only
3 cottages at Little, and 5 or 6 houses at Great,
Green.
The medieval hamlet of Redreth, mentioned by
1100, probably stood c. 2 km. south of the village near
Ashwell Street. Last clearly recorded in the 1340s,
it was perhaps deserted after the Black Death. (fn. 25) The
Cistercian grange at Odsey was succeeded by 1500
by a farmhouse (fn. 26) and from the 18th century by
gentlemen's residences. (fn. 27)
The village contains some scattered minor 17thcentury houses, timber framed and plastered, and
numerous 19th-century cottages, including one terrace of 10 on Church Street. Over 100 houses were
built between 1821 and 1861, but by the 1920s barely
150 were occupied. (fn. 28) Growth after 1945 was slow,
only 22 houses being added between 1951 and
1971. (fn. 29) In the early 1970s, however, two council
estates were put up, one at the north end of Fox
Hole Road which runs north-west from the church,
the other by the road to Great Green. A private
development of over 25 houses rose south of the
latter, and another south of Church Street. (fn. 30) Apart
from Odsey, the only substantial house outside the
old inclosed area is the early 19th-century farmhouse
at Cold Harbour.
The village was linked to its neighbours only by
roads across the fields, mostly straightened at inclosure. (fn. 31) That to Steeple Morden crossed the brook
at a ford replaced by 1593 with a bridge called the
Trap. (fn. 32) The village's main public houses were the
Six Bells by the church, recorded by 1801, (fn. 33) and
the Three Tuns on the high street, opened by 1851. (fn. 34)
The village feast was held at each in alternate Julys.
The Six Bells closed between 1958 (fn. 35) and 1978 when
the Three Tuns was still open. The maypole was
restored at parish expense in 1660. (fn. 36) In 1912 the
parish bought 8 a. for a recreation ground, on one
corner of which a village hall was built in 1928. (fn. 37)
Under James I over 40 a. of the heath, owned by
Joyce Norton, were attached as a hare warren to the
royal hunting lodge at Royston. When they were sold
in 1650 Joyce's heir Thomas Duckett of Steeple
Morden, who had purchased the patent of master of
the king's game there, was in possession. (fn. 38)
Manors and other Estates.
In 1086 the
largest manor was that formed by Picot the sheriff
from 3½ hides formerly held by 8 sokemen, including
men of King Edward, Archbishop Stigand, and Earl
Alfgar. (fn. 39) It passed c. 1110 to Pain Peverel of Dover.
After Pain's son William died without issue c. 1147,
lordship over the Guilden Morden land was divided
among his sisters and coheirs, including in 1166
Maud (d. s.p. 1185), wife of Hugh of Dover, Alice,
married to Hamon Pecche, and Asceline de Waterville. (fn. 40) Through its subinfeudation the manor had
been divided into five estates, each nominally of
½ hide, and each held for ½ knight's fee. (fn. 41) The lordship over two of the estates passed with the barony of
Bourn to the Pecches, and was acquired with it by
Edward I in 1283. (fn. 42) Their tenure under the Crown,
as of the barony of Pecche, was still recorded in the
16th century. (fn. 43) Another two estates were held of the
heirs and successors of Asceline's elder daughter
Asceline, passing with Orwell manor to the Torpels,
Camoyses, Kirkbys, and Prillys. (fn. 44) In 1279 a mesne
lordship over those two manors was ascribed to the
heirs of the earls of Winchester: Asceline de Waterville had married Saher de Quincy (d. 1190), uncle
of the first earl. (fn. 45) The fifth estate was by 1279 held
of the heirs of Richard de Mucegros, descended from
Asceline de Waterville's younger daughter Maud de
Dive. (fn. 46) Those overlordships fell into oblivion after
1350.
Of the two manors held under the lords of Orwell,
PICHARDS derived from the grant c. 1140 by
William Peverel of his remaining demesne at Morden,
to be held as ½ knight's fee, to Hamon Pichard (fl. to
1169), (fn. 47) to whose nephew and heir, William son of
Hugh, Saher de Quincy (d. 1190) confirmed it. (fn. 48) The
manor, later descending with the Pichards' Abington
land, was held c. 1235–42 by William Pichard, (fn. 49) in
1279 by Hamon Pichard, (fn. 50) and in 1302 by William
Pichard. (fn. 51) In 1332 the Morden estate was occupied
by another Hamon Pichard, (fn. 52) in the early 1340s by
Anastasia and Maud Pichard, (fn. 53) and in 1346 by
William Pichard, dead before 1360. (fn. 54) In 1381 Joan,
widow and allegedly murderess of a William Pichard,
released land in Bedfordshire to Thomas Haselden, (fn. 55)
to whose family's other Morden manors, Bondesbury and Foxleys, Pichards was attached by 1428, (fn. 56)
descending thereafter to the Haseldens and their
successors. (fn. 57)
BONDESBURY had also been held under Orwell's lords. Ralph de Banks (fl. from 1209) (fn. 58) held
a fee at Guilden Morden of the Torpels between
1224 (fn. 59) and 1245. (fn. 60) Sir Hugh de Broc held that manor
of Sir John de Camoys in 1279. (fn. 61) Before 1297 Sir
Richard of Wells as nephew and heir of Geoffrey of
Wells released to Robert Hereward the manor already
granted to Robert by Geoffrey's widow Isabel. (fn. 62)
Hereward, while sheriff of Cambridgeshire 1300–1,
entailed 1 carucate in Morden, held as ½ fee c. 1302, (fn. 63)
and died c. 1305. (fn. 64) His heir was his daughter Margaret, who after 1313 (fn. 65) married Sir William Lovell, (fn. 66)
lord in 1346, when he was granted free warren at
Morden. (fn. 67) In 1348 he mortally wounded his steward
in his own hall at Guilden Morden and fled, dying
later that year. (fn. 68) His daughter and heir Beatrice died
after 1361. (fn. 69) John son of Roger Chamber, tenant of
Lovell's Buckinghamshire lands, (fn. 70) in 1383 granted
Bondesbury to Thomas Haselden, (fn. 71) to whom Sir
Ralph Lovell of Norfolk released it in 1384. (fn. 72)
Thomas Haselden, a Yorkshireman, (fn. 73) controller
of John of Gaunt's household 1372–82, arrived in
Cambridgeshire as Gaunt's steward at Bassingbourn
c. 1370. (fn. 74) In 1381 the insurgent peasants destroyed
Haselden's manor house at Morden and carried off
his crops. (fn. 75) The aged Haselden sat for the county in
1384 and 1386 and probably died soon after. (fn. 76) He left
two sons, Richard and Thomas. (fn. 77) Richard, the elder,
M.P. for Cambridgeshire in 1394 and 1399, (fn. 78) died
in 1405, holding also the family's Litlington and
Steeple Morden lands. His son and heir Thomas was
just under 21. (fn. 79) Richard's brother Thomas, four
times M.P. for Cambridgeshire 1395–1401, and
sheriff 1399–1400, (fn. 80) possibly inherited the reversion
of Pichards manor, held for life by their father's
widow Joan, (fn. 81) but died in 1404. (fn. 82) Thomas son of
Richard had gone mad by 1408 and died by 1417.
Control of the Haselden lands passed after 1408 to
Sir William Hasenhull, his late guardian and Joan's
second husband. (fn. 83) Hasenhull occupied most of the
Guilden Morden fees in 1428, (fn. 84) apparently for life.
He died in 1443. (fn. 85) William Haselden, son of
Thomas, (fn. 86) under an agreement of 1433, had exchanged Avenels manor and lands elsewhere with
his kinsman Hugh Haselden for the reversion of
Pichards. Hugh released Bondesbury and Foxleys to
feoffees for William. (fn. 87)
William Haselden (d. 1480) was succeeded by his
son John (fn. 88) (d. 1504), whose son and heir Francis (fn. 89)
died in 1522. The succession of Francis's daughter
Frances and her husband Sir Robert Peyton (fn. 90) was
challenged by Francis's brother Anthony Haselden
(d. 1527), and, after Anthony's minor son William (fn. 91)
died without issue in 1537, by the heirs male,
William and Richard Haselden, London tradesmen
and sons of John Haselden's brother Richard. Sir
Robert Peyton won the ensuing lawsuits in the
1540s (fn. 92) and died in 1550. (fn. 93) When Frances, who had
held the Morden manors in survivorship, died in
1582, (fn. 94) her son and heir Robert Peyton at once sold
them to Thomas Mead, justice of the common pleas.
Mead died in 1585, leaving them for life to his widow
Joan. (fn. 95)
The judge's son and heir Sir Thomas Mead sold
them in 1615 to William Hayes (fn. 96) (d. s.p. 1617). (fn. 97)
William's heir, his brother Peter's son Robert, died
without issue later that year and was succeeded by
his brother Thomas, of age in 1620. (fn. 98) Thomas Hayes
died in 1628, leaving a son William aged 2, during
whose minority the estate was probably occupied by
his father's creditors. Having recovered possession
c. 1647, (fn. 99) William settled it in 1649 upon himself
and his wife Frances jointly in fee simple. William
died in 1651, and Frances married Thomas Storey
in 1653. (fn. 100) He died in 1670, and Frances in 1675,
leaving Guilden Morden to their son Thomas, (fn. 101) who
died in 1702, ordering its sale, if necessary to pay
his debts. (fn. 102) That was effected by the 1720s. (fn. 103)
The purchaser, Sir George Downing, Bt. (d. 1749),
was succeeded by his cousin Sir Jacob Garrard
Downing (d. s.p. 1764). The Morden estate, having
been acquired after Sir George made his will in
1717, was not affected by his devise for endowing
a college, so that Sir Jacob's leaving it to his widow
Margaret was valid. (fn. 104) Lady Downing left it in 1778
to her nephew J. J. Whittington, (fn. 105) who owned
c. 417 a. in the parish before its inclosure, (fn. 106) when his
were the only manors recognized, and 376 a. thereafter. (fn. 107) In 1806 he sold that land to Lord Hardwicke, (fn. 108) and, with c. 300 a. more acquired by 1810,
it remained with the Hardwickes' Wimpole estate
until after 1900. In 1911 Viscount Clifden, purchaser
of Wimpole, sold two farms, covering c. 700 a. Manor
farm of 313 a. was bought by the Cambridgeshire
county council, while the manorial rights passed to
a firm of solicitors. (fn. 109)
The Bondesbury manor house probably stood in
an 8-a. close of that name north-west of the village,
where a moat survived in 1800. (fn. 110) The existing Morden Hall was probably built by the Haseldens in the
15th century. It stands 450 metres east of the village
within a square moat nearly 10 metres wide, (fn. 111) and
is timber framed with three gables facing west, two
above an overhang. Thomas Hayes refurbished it
c. 1620. (fn. 112) It had 9 hearths in the 1660s when the
Storeys lived there. (fn. 113) From the early 18th century to
the 20th it was used as a farmhouse, (fn. 114) but was sold
separately in 1911. (fn. 115) The largish greybrick Morden
House across the road to the west has no connexion
with any manor. It was built, probably in the 1860s,
for the family of Robert Merry, vicar to 1868. (fn. 116)
Of the two half fees later held of the barony of
Bourn, one, later AVENELS manor, granted after
1135 to Gilbert of Beach, was held in 1166 by his
minor son Alan under Hugh of Dover. (fn. 117) By 1231 it was
held by Alan's son Robert of Beach, (fn. 118) from whose
sister Ellen it descended after 1242 to the Avenels. (fn. 119)
In 1279 John Avenel and Walter de la Huse
held it of Gilbert Pecche. (fn. 120) Huse sold 4 yardlands at
Guilden Morden in 1310. (fn. 121) John Avenel's share had
descended by 1302 to his son William (d. 1331), (fn. 122)
then to William's son John. At his death in 1359
John held part of it of the honor of Clare, (fn. 123) to which
leet jurisdiction over the vill had been appropriated
c. 1250. (fn. 124) John's son John died in 1382, and his son
Robert (fn. 125) without issue in 1387. (fn. 126) In 1390 Sir Peter
Courtenay, remainderman under a settlement of
1302, sold Avenels to Thomas Haselden's widow
Joan and her sons. (fn. 127) From Hugh Haselden it passed
after 1433 (fn. 128) with Brewis manor in Steeple Morden
until the 1540s, being said in 1518 and later to be
held of the honor of Clare. (fn. 129) Henry Fortescue did
not sell Avenels with Brewis manor, and at his death
in 1576 it passed to his son Francis, (fn. 130) who had alienated it before he died in 1588. (fn. 131) Henry and Francis
had already enfranchised over 50 a. of copyhold. (fn. 132)
The Avenels demesne of c. 200 a. was settled in
1610 by Thomas Lilley, a local yeoman, upon his son
Thomas. (fn. 133) The son in 1633 settled Avenels manor
with 122 a. on his son Richard (fn. 134) (d. 1655), who left
all his lands to two nephews, Richard and John
Lilley. (fn. 135) In the 18th century Avenels belonged to the
Leetes, a prosperous farming family. Simeon Leete,
established at Morden by 1724, died in 1777. His
son Simeon, (fn. 136) who had 433 a. before, and 414 a.
after, inclosure, when his claim to manorial rights
was rejected, (fn. 137) died in 1807. After his son, another
Simeon, died in 1823, (fn. 138) the family land was divided
c. 1828. Avenels house with 133 a. near the village
passed to a fourth Simeon Leete, on whose death
in 1842 his share was sold and broken up. (fn. 139) Tempest Leete sold Cold Harbour farm of 340 a. in the
south end of the parish c. 1845 to its tenant Richard
Bowman. The Smyth family owned it from the
1890s. (fn. 140)
The present house, once called Avenels, standing
just west of the church and vicarage and dated 1680,
has an 18th-century front with a massive porch, concealing an earlier structure. Separated from the estate
by the 1850s, it was remodelled inside c. 1900 by
Waring and Gillow as a country residence. (fn. 141)
The other fee held of the Pecches originated in
½ knight's fee, granted after 1135 and held in 1166 of
Hamon Pecche by Everard of Beach, (fn. 142) joint sheriff
of Cambridgeshire 1170–7 (fn. 143) and lord of Papworth
Everard. (fn. 144) His successor Peter of Beach (fl. 1194–
1228) (fn. 145) was dead by 1233. About 1235 Peter's son
Peter held with Walter of Isleham ½ fee at Morden, (fn. 146)
probably that lately inherited in 1242 by John of
Beach. (fn. 147) Their land was probably that, entirely occupied by customary tenants, held in 1279 under Sir
Simon de Lisle, the Beaches' successor at Papworth,
John of Papworth, and Maud de Somery, (fn. 148) in 1302
by Geoffrey Neckbone, who bought 43 a. at Morden
in 1312, and William of Ashwell, (fn. 149) and in 1346 by
Robert Neckbone, Peter of Ashwell, and Thomas
Northbrook of Steeple Morden. (fn. 150) Part of the fee was
perhaps the half manor, held from 1352 for life by Sir
Richard Walkefare (d. 1371), and under him by two
others. In 1365 Roger Curt and his wife Beatrice sold
the reversion to Sir Thomas Fastolf (d. c. 1380). (fn. 151)
In 1428 the fee was shared by John Hamelyn
and Thomas Baldry. (fn. 152) It has not been traced later.
The ½ fee held of the Mucegros heirs probably
belonged c. 1240 to William of Withenton, (fn. 153) steward
of Ramsey abbey (Hunts.), (fl. 1220–60). (fn. 154) In 1279
it was divided among six men, none owning any
demesne, (fn. 155) and in 1302 was held by Robert Canon
and Nicholas Colmworth. (fn. 156) Part was probably held in
1311 by John Maidenbury (fl. to 1342) and Richard
Caus. (fn. 157) Its tenants in 1346 included Thomas of
Boxworth, Edward Maidenbury, Isabel Caus, and
Sir William Lovell. (fn. 158) In 1394 Barnwell priory bought
62 a. at Guilden Morden held of the Mucegros
heirs, (fn. 159) and by 1428 held most of the fee, (fn. 160) thereafter
called Boxworths and yielding mainly assized rents. (fn. 161)
The priory had appropriated the church given it by
Pain Peverel, and by 1279 had lordship over 6 yardlands given it by Everard of Beach and 2 more given
by Peter of Beach (fl. 1235). (fn. 162)
After the Dissolution the Barnwell estate was divided. The rectorial tithes and a tithe barn passed
from the Crown to the see of Ely by the exchange
of 1562. (fn. 163) From 1600 the bishops regularly leased
them for terms of lives. The lease, yielding a
profit of £185 in 1650, was acquired in 1695 by
St. Catharine's College, Cambridge, to support scholarships. (fn. 164) The 263 a. allotted for the great tithes at
inclosure (fn. 165) passed, when the last beneficial lease made
in 1838 expired in 1875, to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. They sold 240 a. to the tenant, F. W. P.
Hunt, in 1920, when another 17 a. were on lease to
the county council. (fn. 166) The rectorial glebe had been
absorbed into Barnwell's lay fee, which remained
with the Crown in 1582, (fn. 167) and was perhaps on lease
from it to Dr. Thomas Martin (d. 1593). (fn. 168) It was
probably sold to William Hayes, whose nephew
Thomas held of the Crown, in socage of Greenwich
manor, a manor including Town's End farm of
105 a., (fn. 169) which as BARNWELL manor descended
with the main estate to the Hardwickes. (fn. 170)
The 2¼ yardlands held by Goda, owner of Shingay,
under Earl Alfgar in 1066 and by Earl Roger in
1086, (fn. 171) passed with Shingay manor to the Hospitallers, who in 1279 had ½ hide, mostly occupied by
villeins, in Morden, (fn. 172) and to their successors. (fn. 173) In
1800 173 a. of copyhold were still held of Shingay
manor. (fn. 174) The half-yardland held in 1086 by Alverad
of Hardwin de Scalers (fn. 175) has not been traced later.
Ansgar the staller's man Godwin 'Wambstrong' in
1066 had 3 yardlands, held in 1086 by Richard of
Morden of Geoffrey de Mandeville. (fn. 176) Perhaps
through a link with Geoffrey's manor of Alferton in
Great Dunmow (Essex), lordship over the Morden
fee came by 1200 to Hugh, count of St. Pol, said in
1212 to hold ½ fee there of the honor of Boulogne, (fn. 177)
and was presumably granted with Alferton in 1253
by Henry III to Sir Bartholomew Bigot, (fn. 178) marshal of
his household (d. c. 1270), (fn. 179) of whose heirs it was
held in 1279. (fn. 180) In 1198 William Rivel granted the
3 yardlands to Walkelin de Pernes (fn. 181) (fl. to 1230). (fn. 182)
Baldwin de Pernes held them as ¼ fee c. 1235. (fn. 183)
Thomas de Pernes, a younger son of Walkelin, (fn. 184) left
a daughter Alice. She married Nicholas of Wendy,
who in 1279 held the manor, including 80 a. of
demesne. (fn. 185) In 1281 he and Alice exchanged it for
land in Wendy with Geoffrey of Pitchford, (fn. 186) a servant of Queen Eleanor, who held the manor when
Nicholas's son Ralph claimed it in 1286. (fn. 187)
Geoffrey, constable of Windsor castle since 1272,
died in 1298, and his widow Alice brought the manor
for her life to her second husband Robert Butler,
tenant in 1302. (fn. 188) In 1307 Pitchford's son Richard
sold the reversion to John Foxley, who at once
bought out Alice's life interest. (fn. 189) Foxley, a baron of
the Exchequer from 1309, (fn. 190) was granted free warren
at Morden in 1317 (fn. 191) and died in 1324. His son
and heir Thomas, (fn. 192) constable of Windsor castle
from 1330 to his death in 1360, (fn. 193) held FOXLEYS
manor in 1346. (fn. 194) Thomas's son Sir John Foxley (fn. 195)
sold it in 1377 to Thomas Haselden, (fn. 196) with whose
other manors it later passed, being said like them
to be held in chief of the Crown. (fn. 197) Foxleys manor
house probably once occupied a 9-a. close just
north-east of Bondesbury, still called Foxleys in
1797. (fn. 198)
William Peverel granted to Warden abbey (Beds.)
all his demesne between Ashwell Street and the
Icknield Way. By 1160 that Cistercian abbey had
established there its grange of ODSEY. (fn. 199) It was
probably at farm by 1400, (fn. 200) when it was said to be
held of Barnwell priory under the honor of
Boulogne. (fn. 201) From 1500 to the 1540s it was held on
lease by William Sewster, (fn. 202) to whose son John the
Crown sold it in 1543. (fn. 203) It descended with his
Steeple Morden lands, being occasionally styled
Odsey manor, (fn. 204) until c. 1660 when Thomas Duckett
(d. 1676) settled the land upon his younger son
John. (fn. 205) The manorial title, however, passed with
Duckett's other lands to the Hardwickes. (fn. 206) In 1705
John Duckett sold Odsey to Robert Chester. The
latter sold it in 1722 to William Cavendish, duke of
Devonshire, whose great-grandson William, the 5th
duke, sold it in 1793 to the brothers Edward King
Fordham and George Fordham (d. 1840), bankers
at Royston. (fn. 207) They jointly owned the estate of 263 a.
after inclosure. (fn. 208) E. K. Fordham died without issue
in 1847, and Odsey passed to George's sons Edward
George (d. 1868), and George George (d. 1848)
whose son and successor Herbert died in 1891.
Herbert's son and heir, Sir Herbert George Fordham,
was prominent in Cambridgeshire local government (fn. 209) and an authority on cartographic history. (fn. 210)
He was succeeded in 1929 by his second son William
Herbert (fl. 1969), from whom Odsey passed to C. M.
Fordham, son of Sir Herbert's brother M. E. Fordham, and his son Mr. C. J. K. Fordham, in possession in 1978. (fn. 211)
William Sewster left the monastic grange to decay. (fn. 212) Stables built by 1705 for horses to run on the
18th-century racecourse over Odsey Heath (Herts.)
were remodelled in the 1720s by the duke of Devonshire. He added, close to the turnpike, a sporting
lodge and jockey house in red brick, (fn. 213) later Odsey
House. About 1865 Herbert Fordham replaced the
old farmhouse, to the north-west, perhaps on the
site of the grange, with a substantial mansion in grey
brick, called simply Odsey. (fn. 214) Both houses were
usually occupied by members of the Fordham
family. (fn. 215)
Anglesey priory, refounded c. 1221, (fn. 216) had by 1236
received from Lawrence of St. Nicholas c. 120 a. at
Guilden and Steeple Morden, (fn. 217) which with other
land acquired by 1279 (fn. 218) were sold to John Sewster
in 1543, (fn. 219) and descended thereafter with Odsey. In
1652 Dr. Robert Metcalfe left to Beverley corporation (Yorks. E.R.), partly for educational purposes,
Siliards farm of 106 a. bought by him in 1651. (fn. 220) The
90 a. allotted for it at inclosure were sold to the
Cambridgeshire county council in 1922. (fn. 221)
Economic History.
In 1086 the three smaller
manors lay mainly in demesne, only one having even
one villanus, but only 1 of 3½ hides did so on Picot's
estate, which had three quarters of the peasants.
They comprised only 9 villani as against 15 bordars
and 27 cottars, the latter probably with only
I a. each. The vill was understocked, having fewer
than 8 ploughteams, including 2¼ demesne teams, for
II ploughlands. The value of the vill had fallen from
£13 10s. in 1066 to £10 when the new lords took
over, and £8 15s. in 1086. (fn. 222)
By 1279 (fn. 223) the proportion of demesne had probably
fallen. Pichards and probably Bondesbury manors
had 120 a. each, but Foxleys had only 90 a. and
Avenels 40 a. On the other, divided, fees no demesne
remained, all the land having been subinfeudated.
Although therefore, except on Foxleys where 157 a.
were held freely at rent, the peasants held mostly by
customary tenures, (fn. 224) many of them probably did not
render labour services in practice. There were at
least 30 holding 20 a., and 25 or more with 10 a.,
each. The Peverel fees had a uniform scheme of
rents and services. The tenants of 20 a. paid 10s. a
year, and sent to each of 3 harvest boons 2 men, fed
by the lord; those with 10 a. paid 5s. and sent 1 man.
Each also owed 2 or 3 days of hoeing, gathering straw,
spreading manure, thatching, and carting. One man,
a carpenter, had instead to make ploughs for his lord.
Some customary tenants had to pay aids for knighting the lord's eldest son and marrying his eldest
daughter. Villeins holding of Barnwell priory owed
gersum to marry their daughters and tallage. Only
the Hospitallers' tenants owed more frequent works,
probably at Shingay. Tenants of 20 a. must reap 12 a.
in harvest and work every Friday, except holidays,
from Michaelmas to Lammas, besides 1 or 2 days'
mowing, carrying hay, making malt, and harrowing.
Those with 5–6 a. owed 2 harvest boons, mowing,
threshing, and ploughing 1 a. It was probably because those holdings were tithe free that, of 173 a.
held customarily of Shingay in 1279, 166½ a. were
still known to be copyhold in 1850, when only 120 a.
copyhold of other manors was left. (fn. 225) In 1470 50 day
works, besides rents, were still nominally due on
Avenels. (fn. 226) On the Barnwell estate the former
customary tenants rendered only assized rents and
poultry in the late 15th century. (fn. 227)
Warden abbey had no tenants at Odsey in 1279,
but worked its land, 1½ hide, as a grange with lay
brothers. Some of them were murdered c. 1260, (fn. 228)
and the grange was run by a monk warden c. 1316
when there were four brethren there. (fn. 229) The grange,
enclosed by 1232 from former heathland, (fn. 230) was probably mainly pastoral. About 1311 the abbot had at
least 180 sheep, (fn. 231) and until 1800 succeeding owners
claimed sheep walk for 300 sheep as far north as
Ashwell Street. (fn. 232) Probably by 1386 (fn. 233) it was at farm.
The claim c. 1520 by a disappointed applicant for
the lease that William Sewster had converted much
arable there to pasture, replacing 8 labourers with a
single shepherd, was probably malicious. (fn. 234) In 1539
Odsey included meadow, pasture, heaths, and sheep
leys. (fn. 235) In 1793 it supposedly covered 283 a., partly
arable, (fn. 236) and at inclosure c. 260 a. (fn. 237)
Further north the land was under an open-field
system. (fn. 238) Around the village lay c. 265 a. of old inclosures, stretching from a detached block near
Little Green in the north-east to Town's End in the
south. One block of 50 a. around Morden Hall belonged entirely to the lord. (fn. 239) The open fields fell into
two sections. Five small fields, (fn. 240) together c. 620 a.,
centered around the village in a pattern established
by c. 1650. (fn. 241) Further south long, narrow fields,
covering c. 1,010 a., ran from the town's end
southward towards Odsey. They had once partly
belonged to Redreth, whose field was still in the
late 14th century said to touch the Steeple Morden boundary. (fn. 242) Styled collectively in 1658 the
high field, (fn. 243) at inclosure that area was divided
from east to west into Odsey, Ruddery, and Marsh
fields.
The principal crop from the Middle Ages was
barley. In 1381 Thomas Haselden's barns were plundered of 155 qr. of barley. (fn. 244) One yeoman in 1512
bequeathed 90 qr. of barley and 16 of malt, (fn. 245)
although John Morgan, apparently the rectory lessee,
in 1557 left 10 qr. each of wheat and malt but only
3 each of barley and rye. (fn. 246) Saffron was apparently
cultivated before the 17th century. (fn. 247) The open-field
arable was still being farmed on a triennial rotation
and divided between the tilth, edge, and fallow fields
in 1800, when wheat and spring barley shared the
lately fallow field and legumes were sown in the
'breach season' after them. Clover was also then
being sown in the fields. (fn. 248)
Although what might have been its heathland was
appropriated as Odsey grange, the parish retained
extensive common pasture. To the west by the Cam
lay c. 120 a. called the Marsh, used for meadow
and Lammas ground, and along the northern border
Pillam, later Pelham, common of over 80 a., recorded
by 1525. (fn. 249) Cannon green in the north-east, named by
1528, perhaps later Little Green, was also common. (fn. 250)
Only great cattle, not sheep, were allowed on the
Marsh c. 1332. (fn. 251) In the 16th century sheep were
excluded after 1 November from Pillam common,
which was not opened to cattle until Candlemas.
Commonable beasts might be fed on balks and small
commons in the sown fields after Whitsun or Trinity.
Byherds of sheep were forbidden from 3 May to
Lammas. (fn. 252)
Numerous sheep were kept. In 1347 the parish
contributed to the levy in wool c. 93 stone, probably
representing c. 800 sheep ; 21¼ stone came from three
manorial flocks and c. 56 stone from 32 other sheepowners rendering 1 to 3 stone each. (fn. 253) The manor was
said in 1617 to have liberty of fold for 700 sheep, (fn. 254)
and in 1517 Francis Haselden left his brother
Anthony 320 sheep out of his flock. (fn. 255) In 1527 the
vicar and three others had c. 300 sheep impounded. (fn. 256)
In the 1790s c. 1,000 West country sheep were
kept and 1,200 c. 1800. (fn. 257) At inclosure the lord of the
manors claimed sole right of sheep walk over the
fields encircling the village, and his leave was required for sowing them at any time when they were
subject to that right. He also claimed to keep sheep
on Pillam common from November to February and
on the meadows from August to March. (fn. 258) Rights of
sheep walk were, however, also claimed for Avenels
and two other farms. (fn. 259) In 1663 one 100-a. farm had
had common for 10 cattle and 150 sheep. (fn. 260) The
smaller owners had by then concentrated on cattle.
In 1578 a stint had been fixed of 4 cows for each
plough owned, and 2 for each cottage, (fn. 261) but at inclosure there were 3 cow gates to each commonable
messuage, a total of c. 180, although only 100 cows
were actually kept. (fn. 262)

South-Western Parishes of Armingford Hundred c.1750
From the mid 15th century there was much inequality among the peasants. Some prospered, enlarging their holdings and enjoying the profits of
leasing demesne. In 1620 Thomas Hayes leased out
his newly inherited estate, having neither the experience nor the equipment to farm it himself. Part was
let for share-cropping. (fn. 263) The Frosts, prominent from
the 1410s to 1600, (fn. 264) one branch owning 80 a. until the
1470s, (fn. 265) were c. 1485 leasing the Barnwell estate on 5year terms. (fn. 266) The Morgans rose partly by holding the
rectory on lease from c. 1510 to 1540. (fn. 267) Robert Morgan,
worth £340 in 1522, was the richest yeoman in the
parish. (fn. 268) John Morgan (d. 1581), styled a gentleman,
married an heiress and left c. 480 a. (fn. 269) His son Thomas
(d. 1622) left c. 460 a. in Guilden, and 160 a. in
Steeple Morden, including three farms of 200, 100,
and 80 a. (fn. 270) One mere yeoman c. 1650 owned 19 a.
of closes and 112 a. of arable. (fn. 271)
Such prosperity contrasted with the poverty of
others. In 1524 only 15 inhabitants had goods taxed
at over £4, worth altogether £290, while 20 others
paid on £1 to £4 each, and 24 only on their wages. (fn. 272)
In 1660 5 farmers had land rented at £40–80, and
12 others land rented at £5–25 a year, while the remaining 74 adult men apparently occupied only
houses or crofts. (fn. 273) Of the 80 or 85 households in
the village c. 1670 there were 70 or more with only
1 or 2 hearths, (fn. 274) and over 40 people were too poor
to be assessed for rates. (fn. 275)
By the 1790s the largest estates were Simeon
Leete's 445 a., and the manor's 417 a.; Odsey covered
c. 260 a., and one man had 278 a. Five outsiders with
100–165 a. each had together 640 a., while other
residents, none with over 20 a., owned barely 170 a.
of the parish. Leete farmed 220 a. besides his own land,
and with the lessees of Morden Hall farm, 314 a.,
and another farm of 557 a., occupied more than
half the parish. (fn. 276) Inclosure, first proposed in 1796,
was delayed because the landowners would not, since
the commons had never paid tithe, accept the impropriator's demands over tithe commutation. (fn. 277) Agreement was reached in 1799, (fn. 278) and an Act was obtained
in 1800. (fn. 279) Its provision for a new common pasture
for continued stocking by the commoners was
ineffective because owners of commonable houses
all elected to take separate allotments. (fn. 280)
The division of land was accomplished late in
1801, and the award was finally executed in 1805. (fn. 281)
The area involved included 1,922 a. of open fields
and commons. There were also 545 a. of old inclosure, almost half at Odsey. (fn. 282) After 400 a. had been
allotted for glebe and tithes, the manorial estate
emerged with 376 a., including 83 a. of old inclosures.
By 1810 its purchaser, Lord Hardwicke, had added
his own 64 a., and two other allotments of 198 a. and
93 a. Simeon Leete, besides his own 414 a., held on
lease two other allotments, together 196 a. Six others
of 20–90 a. amounted to c. 248 a., while 152 a.
belonged to 32 others with under 20 a. each,
including 10 allotments of 2¼ a. for common rights
only. (fn. 283)
Following the division and sale by 1845 of the
Leete estate, over half the parish was occupied by
five large farms. (fn. 284) On the Wimpole estate Manor
farm included 320 a. north and east of the village,
while Town farm of 386 a. comprised the purchased
land west of the village. To the south-west lay Cold
Harbour farm of 338 a., occupied from 1839 to
c. 1890 by Richard Bowman. Odsey beyond it was
usually kept in hand by the Fordhams. Rectory farm,
c. 260 a. north of the village, was from the 1860s to
1912 farmed with the adjoining vicarial glebe of 138 a.
Previously it had been grouped with Lodge farm of
135 a., farmed from the 1870s to 1902 with Town
farm. In 1851 the seven large farms of 100 a. or more
occupied 1,990 a., while ten smaller ones covered
only 185 a. In 1871 four large farms of 200 a. or
more comprised c. 1,200 a., and three of 80–150 a.
another 325 a., but there were still ten small farmers
with 150 a. By 1900 only some 7 farmers remained.
The land was mainly devoted to arable farming,
normally on a four-course rotation. More wheat than
barley was usually sown. A steam threshing machine
was in use on one farm in 1864. (fn. 285) Large sheep flocks
survived for a time. One farmer had 240 mature
sheep in 1812, another 400 in 1818. (fn. 286) Total numbers
fell from over 1,400 in 1885 below 800 by 1905 and
to under 300 by 1925. (fn. 287) Later the import of New
Zealand lamb discouraged sheep keeping. (fn. 288) The area
of permanent grass fell from 540 a. in 1866 to
c. 290 a. from the 1880s to the 1920s and 108 a. by
1955. By 1911 Town farm had only 19 a. of permanent pasture to 366 a. of arable. (fn. 289) In 1910 on one
farm the 80 a. cropped included 36 a. of wheat and
only 6 a. of barley, the rest being divided between
spring oats and beans. (fn. 290) In 1977 on c. 1,500 a. there
were 530 a. of wheat and 425 a. of barley. (fn. 291) In 1911
the county council bought Manor farm, and in
1921–2 another 174 a., for division into smallholdings. It had already in 1911 leased the vicar's glebe
for the same purpose, (fn. 292) to the chagrin of its former
tenant who lost the light soil best fitted for grazing
his sheep. (fn. 293) In 1925 c. 50 smallholdings of under
100 a. probably accounted for much of the 120 a. of
potatoes, 87 a. of sugar beet, and over 200 a. of other
vegetables then grown. From the 1920s the rest of
the parish consisted mainly of owner-occupied farms.
There were five of over 100 a. in 1925, four, covering
1,075 a., in 1955. (fn. 294) W. A. Sandeman, who occupied
Morden House 1900–37, kept a pedigree herd of
Aberdeen cattle. (fn. 295) By 1900, too, some closes were
devoted to fruit growing. There were 20 a. of
orchards by 1925, 51 a., mostly apples, by 1955. (fn. 296)
In the 19th century most inhabitants were farm
labourers. (fn. 297) In 1821 101 families depended on
farming, only 18 on trades and crafts. (fn. 298) In 1831
there were 90 adult labourers, and 40 more under
20. (fn. 299) The farms did not provide work for all of them.
In 1851, when there were c. 130 adult labourers, and
38 more aged 15–19, the farmers employed only
87 men and 24 boys. The labourers' income was
partly bolstered by many of their women, 87 in 1851,
83 in 1861, engaging in straw plaiting. (fn. 300) Relief
also came through emigration. In 1845 23 former
villagers were drowned on the voyage to Australia. (fn. 301)
Coprolite digging, beginning c. 1860, (fn. 302) helped for a
time. In 1871 the farmers employed all the 90 or so
adult labourers available, while 70 men, only 10 of
them born outside the parish, were engaged in fossil
digging. (fn. 303) By 1900 the vicar was letting 19 a. in
allotments to labourers. (fn. 304) There were still 45 adult
farm workers in the 1920s and 1950s. (fn. 305)
Except in trades ancillary to farming, the village
had few craftsmen. In the 14th century there were two
or three butchers, sometimes fined for selling outside a borough. (fn. 306) Weavers were recorded in 1269, (fn. 307)
1440, 1680, (fn. 308) and 1768, (fn. 309) a chandler in 1470, (fn. 310) and a
glazier c. 1742. Brick-kiln Furlong, so named by the
1690s, (fn. 311) was perhaps near the site of the brickworks,
north of Great Green, where several water-filled
brickpits survive. They were disused by the 1930s. (fn. 312)
In the mid 19th century there were usually 8 or 9
carpenters, 3 blacksmiths, 3 or 4 shoemakers, and 2
tailors. (fn. 313) The Worboys's wheelwright's business
grew into a small building firm, still active in the
1930s, and a saddler's shop survived c. 1930, but the
traditional crafts gradually disappeared after 1914. (fn. 314)
The last village blacksmith, of the Kaye family,
active for 150 years, died in 1975. (fn. 315) By the 1950s
some villagers worked in factories at Baldock or
Letchworth (Herts.). (fn. 316)
Before 1150 William Peverel granted a mill with
his manor to Hamon Pichard. (fn. 317) In 1279 Pichards
manor included a water mill, (fn. 318) which passed with it
to the Haseldens, being called Hooks mill by the
1530s. (fn. 319) Millers were frequently recorded in the 14th
and 16th centuries. (fn. 320) After 1615, (fn. 321) and probably by
1649, the mill was sold to the lord of Hatley St.
George; (fn. 322) at inclosure, when it stood on a cutting
from the Cam, over 1½ km. north-west of the village,
it belonged to Thomas Quintin of Hatley. (fn. 323) From
him it passed in 1828 to the Dickasons, and from
them c. 1865 to the Sandersons, (fn. 324) who worked it until c. 1920. There were then a water mill assisted by
an oil-fired engine, and a brick tower windmill. (fn. 325) The
water mill closed in the 1930s; the windmill was
derelict by 1930 and had lost its sails by 1975. (fn. 326)
Local Government.
In 1279 the Hospitallers of Shingay held view of frankpledge and the
assize of bread and of ale for all their tenants in the
Mordens. (fn. 327) Warden abbey claimed in 1299 to receive,
by royal charter, amercements imposed on its men. (fn. 328)
The only court known, however, to have exercised
leet jurisdiction in the parish was that of the honor
of Clare. In the late 1250s the earl of Gloucester's
steward, by what title is uncertain, annexed for his
lord, over two knights' fees, rights which by 1279
covered the whole vill, including view of frankpledge, the assize of bread and of ale, and a gallows. (fn. 329)
Their ownership descended with the honor's leet
held at Litlington. (fn. 330) The sessions for Guilden Morden handled most public business there from the
early 14th century, when the leet often tried minor
affrays and disputes leading to bloodshed, to the
16th. It elected constables (fn. 331) and aletasters, (fn. 332) and
supervised the numerous alewives, in 1357 penalizing
those who stopped selling before the ale ran out or
took down their signs too early. (fn. 333) In the 14th century
it regularly enforced agricultural customs, and in the
16th frequently also made regulations defining them.
By then its tenurial business involved registering
transfers of freehold held of other manors, (fn. 334) though
not of copyhold. It had, indeed, claimed in the 14th
century suit of court from lords of several fees. (fn. 335)
No record survives of its activity after the 1570s.
Evidence survives of courts baron held for Avenels
until the mid 16th century, (fn. 336) and the Shingay court
baron also dealt with property in Guilden Morden
until the 19th century. (fn. 337)
The vestry was formally reconstituted in 1662, no
churchwardens having been appointed during the
Interregnum. (fn. 338) In the early 18th century it consisted
of from four to nine farmers; the vicar or his curate
often presided. No highway surveyors were elected
after 1705, and only one constable from 1751 to 1809,
while three Simeon Leetes in succession served as
sole churchwarden for 1751–1806 and from 1813.
From the 1760s there were four overseers a year.
The vestry probably enforced the bylaws on farming,
naming a hayward from the 1730s and a herdsman
until 1794. In the late 1740s parish meetings enforced locally the royal proclamations made to prevent the spread of the cattle pest. Expenditure on the
poor rose from £20–30 a year in the 1710s to £40–50
by the early 1750s; by the mid 1770s it was usually
well over £100, and c. £180 in the late 1790s. A
townhouse owned by the parish by 1660, which
perhaps furnished the six almshouses recorded in
1728, (fn. 339) was probably converted in 1779 into a workhouse with 4 beds. The parish allowed its master 1s.
for each inmate.
By 1803, when poor relief cost £304, there were
31 people on outside relief, and c. 1814 still 16 or
17, besides the 4 or 5 in the workhouse. Expenditure
fell from £455 then (fn. 340) to c. £380 in the late 1810s,
but was seldom much below £300 in the 1820s, and
was averaging £500 in the 1830s. (fn. 341) About 1830 the
parish used 7 or 8 unemployed labourers on roadwork. (fn. 342) In 1833 an overseer was the victim of arson,
supposedly committed by a man denied relief for
refusing the work offered him. (fn. 343) From 1835 the
parish was included in the Royston poor-law union. (fn. 344)
The old poorhouse had been sold by 1842. (fn. 345) The
parish belonged from the 1890s to the Melbourn
R.D., was incorporated with it in 1934 into the
South Cambridgeshire R.D., (fn. 346) and after 1974 inluded in the South Cambridgeshire district.
Church.
Picot's endowment of the priory which
he founded at Cambridge c. 1090 included his church
at Guilden Morden, which Pain Peverel confirmed
to the priory on its removal to Barnwell c. 1112. (fn. 347)
Pain's son William purportedly gave the church with
a manor to Hamon Pichard c. 1140, (fn. 348) but Barnwell
retained it or soon regained it, and had appropriated
it by the mid 13th century. The bishop of Ely ordained a vicarage, (fn. 349) whose advowson remained with
Barnwell until its surrender in 1538. (fn. 350) In 1558, at
the request of Bishop Thirlby, the queen granted it
to Jesus College, Cambridge, (fn. 351) which was still patron
when presentation was suspended in the 1970s. (fn. 352)
Warden abbey enjoyed in substance exemption
from tithes on its grange at Odsey, although c. 1270
1 mark was paid from it to Barnwell priory. (fn. 353) Later
the vicar received 8s. 6d. from Odsey as a modus.
At inclosure 260 a. there were found to be tithe free,
as were c. 200 a. of freehold and copyhold of the
Hospitallers' former lordship. (fn. 354)
The vicar's endowment was meagre. He had a
glebe amounting until inclosure to only 16 a., the
altarage, and part of the small tithes. The priory had
retained, besides the great tithes, those of hay, the
mills, and the rectory farmstead, and probably mortuary dues, while the vicar had to pay it a pension
of 1 mark and rent for his dwelling. The vicarage was
worth only £5 a year c. 1270, although the church
yielded £46 13s. 4d. When Luke of Abington, vicar
1269–88, sought an augmentation, the priory
thwarted him, despite support for his claims from
Archbishops Kilwardby and Pecham, by repeated
appeals to the pope. With the sheriff's help it repelled
Luke's attempt to carry off the tithes awarded him
by the archbishops' delegates. (fn. 355)
Eventually the vicar was allotted a £2 pension,
paid out of the rectory c. 1500, (fn. 356) but his living was
still worth under £8 in the 15th century, (fn. 357) and only
£7 3s. 6d. in 1535 (fn. 358) and £24 in 1650. (fn. 359) By 1728 he also
received, besides £40 a year for the small tithes including those of hay, £10 from an augmentation
given by Bishop Gunning (1675–84), apparently out
of impropriate tithe elsewhere leased to Jesus College. St. Catharine's College, the rectory lessee, had
doubled his pension to the £4 still being paid in the
1870s. (fn. 360) At inclosure the vicar was allotted 8 a. for his
glebe and 130 a. for tithes. (fn. 361) The vicarage was worth
£170 c. 1830, (fn. 362) and by 1851 £356 gross, including
augmentations of £160 a year, £114 of which Jesus
College had given in 1846. (fn. 363) By 1873 the income
was £412 gross, including £217 from the glebe. (fn. 364)
Between 1928 and 1948 Jesus College gave over
£1,300 more, raising the vicar's endowment income
to £2,000. (fn. 365)
The original vicarage house probably stood just
west of the church. It was ruinous c. 1560, (fn. 366) and
again, though sometimes inhabited by a curate,
c. 1790. (fn. 367) Although expensively repaired c. 1805, (fn. 368)
by 1830 it was thought to need enlargement before
a clergyman could live there, (fn. 369) and was next used
successively as a schoolroom, carpenter's shop, and
laundry. In 1874 a large greybrick wing was added,
out of royalties on coprolites, to the old thatched,
lath-and-plaster house; (fn. 370) the latter was removed
c. 1956. (fn. 371)
A chapel at Redreth, recorded before 1100, was in
the 13th century served thrice a week through a
chantry maintained by the vicar. (fn. 372) About 1300 it had
11 service books, besides vestments and a chalice. (fn. 373)
In 1343 the inhabitants nearby were licensed to hear
mass in it instead of the parish church for five years. (fn. 374)
A hermit recorded in 1362 (fn. 375) was perhaps the predecessor of the hermits, nominated by the prior of
Barnwell, who c. 1520 still dwelt by a chapel of
St. James, perhaps at Redreth, endowed with 8 a. (fn. 376)
Its probable site is indicated by the chapel hill
mentioned in 1633 near the parish claypit. (fn. 377)
Before 1500 vicars were mostly unlearned men,
including under Richard II two former chantry chaplains. (fn. 378) The vicar served the cure alone in 1378, (fn. 379)
but in 1406 there were two priests, (fn. 380) and in 1489
a chaplain. (fn. 381) The chaplain was perhaps connected
with the chantry of Our Lady to which Richard
Frost left 8 a. in 1472, (fn. 382) and John Morgan £2 a year
more in 1495. (fn. 383) A brotherhood in the name of Jesus
was being founded in 1512, (fn. 384) and in 1517 Francis
Haselden asked to be buried before a Jesus altar in
the north aisle. (fn. 385) The Crown sold 3 a. of obit lands
in 1553. (fn. 386)
In 1564 the non-resident vicar was failing to
catechize the children, and in 1573 had a curate. (fn. 387)
In 1590 many parishioners failed to attend church,
working or drinking instead. The vicar himself, John
Knightley (1575–1615), neglected to wear his surplice
and to read the homilies or the queen's injunctions;
he was no puritan, gambled in taverns, and was
twice, unsuccessfully, accused of witchcraft. (fn. 388) Of the
seven vicars presented 1619–37, several held the
living with fellowships at Jesus College, and two
resigned within a year of their institution. (fn. 389) They
were probably absentees, employing curates. (fn. 390) The
last, Thomas Ansell, was sequestered in 1644. (fn. 391) His
successor in 1650 was condemned as unfit for the
place. (fn. 392) Andrew Stroud, minister by 1658, had himself episcopally ordained in 1660, and was formally
instituted in 1662. (fn. 393)
From 1673 former members of Jesus College were
usually appointed, the living being often, as for
1726–64, held with a fellowship. (fn. 394) In 1775 the vicar
lived at Dunstable (Beds.), and, like most of his successors until the 1840s, left the parish to a curate,
shared from the 1780s to 1814 with Steeple Morden.
By custom there was usually only one Sunday service, in mornings and afternoons alternately, with
communion three or four times a year. John Raworth,
vicar 1777–1808, came briefly to reside c. 1802, and
preached regularly to afternoon congregations of 250.
He claimed to have doubled the number of communicants to 15, catechized regularly in Lent, and
reduced the number of dissenters. (fn. 395) After his death
matters declined to their former state. Thomas
Clack, the curate in 1836, lived in lodgings at Litlington, being too poor to afford furniture or even
a servant. To his vicar's alarm he 'spouted' in poor
men's clubs against the new poor law, and encouraged the labourers to oppose the building of Royston
workhouse. (fn. 396)
Later vicars were more diligent. Robert Merry
(1844–67), resident by 1851, claimed an afternoon
attendance of 170, besides 76 Sunday-school children. (fn. 397) In 1873 there were 370 churchgoers, although
130 others neglected all worship. Then, as later,
there were two services with sermons every Sunday,
and monthly communions, attended by up to 28
people. The vicar also preached weekly on winter
evenings and gave cottage lectures. (fn. 398) In 1897, however, many of the 400 claimed as churchgoers
attended irregularly, and the women's guild, workmen's club, and parish library attached to the church
had barely 20 members each. (fn. 399) A. L. Williams, vicar
1895–1919, published much scholarly work on the
Old Testament. (fn. 400) From 1960 the parish was held
with Steeple Morden, and after 1970 served by a
member of the Shingay group team of clergy. He
lived at the vicarage. (fn. 401)
The large and stately church of ST. MARY, so
named by 1472, (fn. 402) consists of a chancel, aisled and
clerestoried nave with south porch, all battlemented
and mostly built of field stones with freestone dressings, and a west tower, entirely of ashlar, with a short
spire. The earliest surviving portion is the three eastern arches of the nave south arcade, probably representing its original length. Their double-chamfered
arches on octagonal piers are probably of before
1300. Next, perhaps before 1350, four bays of the
north arcade, with elaborately moulded arches with
headstops on quatrefoil piers, were built as far as the
crossing between the north and south doorways. The
chancel, whose arch has similar responds, was probably contemporary. The two west bays of the north
arcade, and three west bays on the south, were added
later, in a similar style, but beyond a visible break.
The tower arch, on octagonal responds, otherwise
matches those western bays. The massive three-stage
west tower is probably of the 15th century, when
also all the windows were inserted, the taller twolight ones in the chancel being perhaps earlier than
the three-light ones in the aisles. The roof line was
raised to accommodate five two-light clerestory windows on each side. The south porch, whose outer
doorway with pierced spandrels is like one at Ashwell
church (Herts.), is also 15th-century, as is probably
the ashlar vestry, added north of the chancel.
The font has a 12th-century basin on later
columns. The south-eastern chancel window tracery
is continued downward to provide sedilia and a
piscina. A screen across the tower arch has elaborate
curvilinear tracery under flat heads; (fn. 403) it stood in the
north aisle in 1748. (fn. 404) The unusual rood screen is
perhaps late 14th-century: its turreted rood stair is
earlier than the south aisle east window. The screen
has two enclosed compartments, each nearly
2 metres square, on either side of a passageway. Its
tracery, pierced above, comprises intersecting ogees
and quatrefoils. Renewed painted decoration includes two figures of saints. Its ceiling survived into
the 19th century. The compartments may originally
have contained two lesser altars, but from the 17th
century to the 19th were used as pews for two principal farms. (fn. 405) Of the Hayes and Storey monuments
recorded in 1748 a hanging one to William Hayes
(d. 1617) survives in the north aisle. (fn. 406)
The medieval windows were possibly broken in
the 1560s. (fn. 407) From the 16th century the rectory
lessees consistently failed to maintain the chancel. (fn. 408)
The nave, much neglected during the Interregnum,
was repaired and reglazed in the 1660s, (fn. 409) and remained in a decent state into the 19th century. (fn. 410)
The spire was possibly cut down when reconstructed
in the 17th century. (fn. 411) The church was substantially
restored in the late 1850s. The east window received new tracery, and the chancel a hammer beam
roof supported by angels. The interior woodwork
was almost all renewed, the rood screen itself being
only saved by a direct appeal to Lord Hardwicke,
who owned the pews in it. The chancel was again
repaired c. 1875. (fn. 412) An organ acquired in 1876 was
replaced in 1967. (fn. 413) The walling again required
extensive repairs in the 1960s, and in 1972 the
spire, then threatening to fall, was dismantled and
re-erected. (fn. 414)
In 1552 there were four bells, (fn. 415) and in 1748 as in
the 1960s six, dating from 1621, 1627, and 1708–9.
The tower also contains a clock of 1749 with original
works. (fn. 416) There were two or three chalices in the 14th
century, (fn. 417) and five, silver-gilt, in 1552. (fn. 418) There are
a cup and paten given in 1666 by Frances Storey, and
an almsdish of 1682. (fn. 419) The registers begin in 1653. (fn. 420)
The churchyard was closed c. 1897, and a new cemetery, managed then and later by the parish council,
was established north of the road to Great Green. (fn. 421)
About 1475 Roger Giles left 18 a. at Guilden
Morden and Ashwell for church repairs. (fn. 422) It probably formed part of the town lands, recorded by
1597, (fn. 423) amounting to 60 a. in 1662, (fn. 424) and after inclosure to 45 a. in Guilden Morden and 6 a. in Ashwell. The whole rent, £12 a year, was spent entirely
on church repairs in the 18th century, (fn. 425) but only £12
went to the churchwardens after 1806. From 1857
half the income went for church repairs, and in 1896
was constituted as a separate charity, yielding £92
a year by the mid 1970s. (fn. 426)
Nonconformity.
The seven Presbyterians
said to have a meeting house in 1728, (fn. 427) and the few
Methodists mentioned in 1807 (fn. 428) were perhaps connected with those at Steeple Morden. By 1825 the
neglected parish contained some Independents,
meeting at first in a cottage. (fn. 429) An organized Independent congregation, including several leading
farmers and tradesmen, was established by the late
1830s. In 1840 it opened a chapel, a plain classical
building in white brick with an arcaded front, on the
east side of the street north of Pound Green. The
first professional minister, Joseph Stockbridge, who
served from then almost until his death in 1892, (fn. 430)
consolidated the congregation. In 1851, when the
chapel could supposedly accommodate 520, he
claimed that c. 230 adults were at the morning
service, and 100 more came in the afternoon, besides
c. 90 Sunday-school children. (fn. 431) In 1873 there were
550 chapelgoers in a population of c. 1,050, in 1897
still 420 out of c. 820. (fn. 432) In 1888 Stockbridge sold
his house for a manse for future ministers, (fn. 433) and there
were resident ministers until c. 1920. (fn. 434) From 100 in
1914 membership declined slowly to 56 c. 1935, 37
by 1953, and 24 by 1965. (fn. 435) A bequest of £500 in
1921 to augment the minister's stipend was received
in 1951. (fn. 436) Local men serving the chapel, including
the village postman 1964–76, still occupied the manse
in the 1960s. (fn. 437) The chapel, still open in the 1970s
when its adherents included several leading villagers, did not join the United Reformed Church. (fn. 438)
Education.
Schoolmasters were recorded in
1582 (fn. 439) and 1605. (fn. 440) In 1599 a prosperous husbandman
directed that his son be taught to read perfectly and
write legibly. (fn. 441) The parish had no school c. 1800, (fn. 442)
but by 1818 there was a Sunday school supported
by subscriptions, with c. 100 pupils. (fn. 443) In 1833 there
were 6 day schools with 44 pupils paid for by
their parents, and 2 Sunday schools, (fn. 444) one probably
the church school, the other perhaps the origin of
the British day school held by the Independents in
their vestry c. 1850. (fn. 445) The church Sunday school
reorganized c. 1845 was affiliated to the National
Society by 1846, when it had c. 140 pupils. A
National day school then at the old vicarage was
moved by 1850 to a brick schoolroom, built with a
teacher's house on a site given by Lord Hardwicke
in 1848. Its 30 pupils were taught by a master and
mistress, whose pay absorbed most of the £70
obtained from subscriptions and schoolpence. A
government building grant was obtained in 1850. (fn. 446)
In the 1860s that school had c. 100 pupils. The older
children attended mainly in the winter, but few
children in the parish were growing up entirely untaught. (fn. 447) The school was enlarged in 1867. (fn. 448) The
vicar also supported a night school from the 1840s
to the 1870s. (fn. 449) The proportion of the school's income
raised from non-governmental sources fell from half
of £170 in 1876 to only £60 of £270 by the late
1890s, when it was in financial difficulties. (fn. 450) The
average attendance was usually over 120 before
1910. (fn. 451) In 1885 there were 74 older pupils and 40
infants. (fn. 452) Attendance declined from 109 in 1914 to
64 by 1927 and 47 by 1938. (fn. 453) From 1954 the older
children went to Bassingbourn village college. (fn. 454) In
1972 some parents complained that the teaching was
ineffective, only two pupils having passed the 'eleven
plus' examination since 1965. (fn. 455) In 1974 new school
buildings were opened at Pound Green. (fn. 456)
Elizabeth Clark, a member of the chapel, kept a
private school at Saville House from the 1890s to the
1920s. (fn. 457)
Charities for the Poor.
In 1635 John
Godfrey left £10, the interest to be given to the poor
at Christmas and Whitsun. (fn. 458) In 1662, to pay for
church repairs, the parish borrowed that £10 and
two similar £1 bequests, undertaking to pay interest
to the poor, (fn. 459) and doles were given, at long intervals,
until the 1720s. (fn. 460) In 1843 the vestry, having learnt
that £70 of arrears were due, decided to give £4
yearly, by way of interest, in coal at Christmas.
Distribution in coal was probably absorbed from the
1880s into the town lands charity. (fn. 461)
In the 1660s the poor had apparently received 6 qr.
of corn or grist from the yield of the town lands. (fn. 462)
After inclosure it was decided in 1806 to use the
balance of income from them, after allowing £12
yearly for church repairs, for apprenticeship fees,
clothing, and other relief for needy persons not regularly on the rates. The income in the 1820s was £55.
About 1830, when coal was being distributed to the
widowed, the parish temporarily exchanged its 45-a.
holding for 35 a. nearer the village, let as allotments
to 43 labourers. (fn. 463) From 1843 the value of the 'town
grain' went for a time to widows and old people in
bread or cash doles. (fn. 464)
Those arrangements ended in 1857, when after
complaints by the vicar the town land rent, £86 altogether, was divided equally between the poor and
church repairs. Until the 1870s the trust was in the
hands of an autocratic churchwarden, who allegedly
gave over a third of the poor's share to nonresidents. (fn. 465) From 1896 the parish council managed
that half share as a separate charity. Until the 1950s
its income was commonly given in small cash
doles, 368 people sharing £32 4s. in 1896. In the
mid 1960s the poor's £51 went mostly in doles to
35 people. By the 1970s £90–100 was given yearly
among 35–40 old people. (fn. 466)