Pages 40-48

The Environs of London: Volume 4, Counties of Herts, Essex and Kent. Originally published by T Cadell and W Davies, London, 1796.

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Chauncy supposes the name of this place to be derived from its situation on the ridge of a hill (fn. 1). There is a village called Ridge, not far distant, thus situated; Mr. Newcome, therefore, supposes this to be Tother Ridge (fn. 2).

Situation, boundaries, extent, &c.

Totteridge lies in the hundred of Broadwater, about a mile to the west of the northern road, and about ten miles from London. The parish is bounded by Hendon and Finchley in Middlesex, and by Chipping Barnet in Hertfordshire. It contains about 1500 acres of land, the whole of which is under grass. The soil is principally clay, in some parts gravel. This parish pays the sum of 425l. 9s. to the land-tax, which is at the rate of about 2s. 9d. in the pound.

The manor.

The manor of Totteridge belonged formerly to the monks of Ely, and afterwards to the bishop of that diocese. Bishop Cox gave it to Queen Elizabeth with Hatfield, in consideration of an annuity of 1500l. per annum, payable out of the exchequer to the bishop and his successors. In the year 1590, the Queen granted this manor to John Cage, from whom it passed to the Peacock family. Rechard, relict of Richard Peacock, having survived her children (who, being fourteen in number, all died without issue), sold it to Sir Paul Whichcote, Bart. (fn. 3); by whom, in the year 1720, it was aliened to James Brydges, Duke of Chandos. In 1748, Henry, the second Duke, sold it to Sir William Lee, Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench, whose grandson, William Lee Antonie, Esq. (fn. 4) is the present proprietor.


Totteridge Park.

The original site of the manor is now a farm-house, in the tenure of Mr Young. The house, of late years occupied by the lords of the manor, was a small hunting-seat, purchased of Lord Bateman by Sir William Lee, who enlarged it, and resided there several years. It is now called Totteridge Park, and is the residence of Mrs. Philadelphia Lee, relict of the late William Lee, Esq. son of the Chief Justice.

Mr. Fiott's.

The seat of John Fiott, Esq. was built on the site of an old mansion, which was for many years the residence of the Hare family, and afterwards of Sir Robert Atkyns, K. B. (fn. 5) Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer.

Pointers Grove.

Pointers Grove was, in 1652, the property and residence of Lady Gurney, widow of the celebrated Sir Richard Gurney, Lord Mayor of London, who died a prisoner in the Tower, anno 1647. In 1664, Sir John Aubrey and his wife conveyed it to Sir Thomas Aleyne, Bart. (fn. 6) After passing through several hands, it became the property of Sir Peter Meyer, Knt. In 1758, it was sold by his representatives to Edward Williams, Esq. whose widow devised it to her niece Miss D. Capper, late wife of the Rev. William Shippen Willes, vicar of Cirencester. It is now since her decease become the property of Mr. Willes, and is in the occupation of Charles Thelusson, Esq. The house was considerably improved by Mrs. Williams, and the grounds laid out for her by Brown.

William Manning, Esq. one of the directors of the Bank, has a handsome seat at Totteridge, with extensive gardens.

Eminent inhabitants.

Richard Baxter.

John Corbet.

Thomas Jones.

Lady Rachel Russel.

Richard Baxter, the celebrated nonconformist divine, resided several years at Totteridge (fn. 7). John Corbet, author of the Military Government of Gloucester and numerous theological tracts, found an asylum at his house after the Restoration (fn. 8). Thomas Jones, author of some treatises against the Roman Catholics, died at Totteridge in 1682, and was there buried (fn. 9); but the entry of his burial is not to be found in the parish register, which is imperfect about that period. He was a visitor at the house of Francis Charlton, Esq. who was suspected of having been concerned in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion. Lady Rachel Russel, widow of the unfortunate Lord Russel, (who was executed on the 21st of July 1683,) retired to Totteridge in the month of August 1684. It has been said that she resided there during the greater part of her widowhood; but it appears from her letters, that her residence at Totteridge was accidental, and very short (fn. 10).

The chapel.

Totteridge chapel, which is dedicated to St. Andrew, was rebuilt in the year 1790. It is a plain oblong brick structure, with a small spire at the west end (fn. 11). The only monumental inscription is on a flat stone in the nave, to the memory of Capt. Henry Long, who died in 1718.

Monuments in the old chapel.

In the old chapel were the monuments of John Hare, Esq. clerk of the Court of Wards and Liveries, 1613; Dorothy, wife of William Taylor, merchant, and daughter of Richard Turner, Esq. 1673; Richard Turner, Esq. 1676; Miss Susanna Turner, 1672; Andrew Campion, vicar of Edlesborough, Bucks, 1677, &c.

Tombs in the church-yard.

In the church-yard are the tombs of William Campion, Esq. 1719; Sir Peter Meyer, Knt. 1727; Richard Stapler, citizen of London, 1734; Mr. Peter Maber, 1736; Mary, daughter of Maximilian Stevens, Esq. and relict of Capt. Pigott, 1737; Sarah, wife of Bernard Halfpenny, daughter and heir of Charles Ballet of Clement's-Inn, 1746; Benjamin Hunt, merchant, 1758; Margaret Williams, his daughter, 1761; John Ballet, Esq. 1755; Elizabeth, wife of Richard Gildart, Esq. and daughter of George Knipe, 1758; Richard Gildart, Esq. 1771; Edward Williams, Esq. barrister at law (fn. 12), 1759; Edward Watson, Esq. of the Middle Temple, 1759; Mr. John Hale, 1760; Philip Hale, 1761; Mr. John Nicholl, 1764; Rev. Nicholas Buckeridge, 1765; Henry Bainbridge Buckeridge, Esq. 1768; Elizabeth, wife of Robert Browne, Esq. and daughter of Jonathan Alderton, 1772; Mary, wife of Thomas Garle, and daughter of Philip Hale, 1779; Thomas Garle, 1789; Catherine, relict of Francis Fauquier, Esq. governor of Virginia, and daughter of Sir Charles Dalston, Bart. 1781; the Rev. Bexworth Liptrott, 1784; and William Manning, Esq. 1791.

Remarkable yew-tree.

In this church-yard is a yew-tree of a very remarkable size, its girth, at three feet from the ground, being 26 feet.


Totteridge is a chapelry dependant upon Hatfield; the rector of which place enjoys the tithes, and appoints a curate here. It is in the diocese of Lincoln, and in the deanery of Hertford. The commissioners appointed to inquire into the state of ecclesiastical benefices, in 1650, recommended that it should be detached from Hatfield and made a parish-church (fn. 13). In 1652, 50l. per annum was allowed by the committee of sequestrations to William Tutty, then curate of Totteridge (fn. 14). The present curate is the Rev. Thomas Cope Marsham.

Some wood-lands in this parish having been grubbed up in the year 1605, five acres were allotted in lieu of tithes (fn. 15).

Register of baptisms, &c.

Comparative state of population.

The earliest date of the register of baptisms and burials is 1570.

Average of Baptisms. Average of Burials.
1580–9 34/5 12/5
1630–9 54/5 5
1730–9 6 1/10 104/5
1780–4 11 121/5
1784–9 71/5 101/5
1790–4 8 83/5

The present number of houses is fifty-eight (fn. 16).
In 1603, there were six burials; in 1625, 2; in 1665, 5.

Extracts from the Register.

Family of Hare.

"Mr. John Hare, buried May 29, 1613." Father of the first Lord Colerane.—"Mr. Hugh Hare, buried Mar. 10, 1619–20." Brother of John. He died without issue.—"Rebecca, the wife of Richard Hare, buried May 3, 1627; Lore, wife of Richard, buried Aug. 13, 1631; Richard Hare, (living lately in Ld Colerane's house,) buried Feb. 23, 1647–8."

"Sr Ralph Hare, of Stow Bardolph in the county of Norfolk, Knt, and Anne Wincott, married Jan. 28, 1621–2."

Hugh Lord Colerane.

"John, son of Hugh Lord Colerane, baptized Aug. 7, 1627, buried Nov. 10; Alice, baptized Oct. 20, 1633 (she was married at Totteridge, Feb. 27, 1654–5, to Sir George Fletcher, Bart.); Lucie, baptized Dec. 11, 1634, buried Nov. 11, 1635; Henry, (the second Lord Colerane,) baptized April 21, 1636; Hugh, Aug. 22, 1637; Susanna, baptized Dec. 17, 1638, buried Feb. 14, 1678–9; James, baptized Feb. 11, 1640–1, buried Mar. 26, 1642; Lucy, baptized July 15, 1642, buried July 17, 1668; Charles, baptized Dec. 6, 1646; Montagu, baptized Aug. 4, 1648, buried Sept. 3; The Right Hon. Hugh Lord Colerane, aged 61, buried Oct. 9, 1667." Hugh, son of John Hare, was created an Irish baron at the age of 19. During the civil war he attached himself to the Royal party, and gave up his seat at Longford in Wiltshire for a garrison. It was taken and plundered by the parliament, and all his estates sequestered (fn. 17). He married Lucy, one of the daughters of Sir Henry Montagu, afterwards Earl of Manchester.

"Henry, son of Henry Hare, my Lord Colerane's eldest son, baptized June 19, 1667, buried Sep. 27; Hugh (fn. 18), son of Henry Ld Colerane, and Constantia, baptized July 2, 1668; John, baptized May 7, buried May 14, 1672." Henry Lord Colerane was a great antiquary and medallist (fn. 19). The Hare family lived in a house at Totteridge which was built by Robert Taylor, teller of the Exchequer, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It became forseited to the crown for a debt, and the Queen sold it to Hugh Hare, uncle of the first Lord Colerane (fn. 20). This house has been pulled down; on its site is the seat of John Fiott, Esq.

Henry Earl of Manchester, and his family.

"Sr Henry Montagu, Knt. Ld Chief Justice of the King's Bench, and Margaret Hare of Totteridge, were married April 26, 1620." Henry Montagu was, in the month of December that year, created Viscount Mandevil; and in 1625, Earl of Manchester. He was an eminent lawyer and statesman, having held the high offices of Lord Treasurer, Lord President of the Council, and Lord Privy Seal. He is recorded among the noble authors (fn. 21), as having written a book called Meditations on Life and Death. The Earl of Manchester resided several years at Totteridge, where most of his children, by the marriage above recorded, were born. Margaret Hare was widow of John Hare, Esq. clerk of the Court of Wards, and daughter of John Crouch, Esq.—"Mary, daughter of Henry Ld Visct Maundeville, buried Mar. 6, 1623–4; Susanna, his daughter, baptized Mar. 30, 1624 (she was married at Totteridge, Dec. 14, 1637, to George Ld Chandos of Sudely); Sidney, son of the Earl of Manchester, baptized Oct. 21, 1627; Sr Lewis Mansell, Knt, and Lady Elizabeth Montagu (fn. 22), married Aug. 15, 1627; the Lady Margaret Montagu, Countess of Manchester, buried Dec. 29, 1653."

Family of Aleyne.

"John Aleyne, Esq. son to the Rt Worshipful Sr Thomas Aleyne, Knt and Bart, buried Jan. 12, 1670–1;—Sr Thomas Aleyne, Knt and Bart, Alderman of the city of London, and formerly Ld Mayor thereof, that year wherein Charles II. returned from exile, was buried Sep. 18, 1690." The title is extinct. Sir Thomas Aleyne was created a baronet, June 14, 1660.

"Edward Visct Cornbury (fn. 23) and Mrs Katherine Obrien (fn. 24), married July 10, 1688."

Anecdotes of Charles Lord Mohun.

Anecdote relating to the murder of Mountfort the actor.

In the year 1712, there is no entry of burials from the month of October till February ensuing. The following note was inserted in a blank space by Mr. Liptrott, late curate of Totteridge: "Mem. Ld Mohun, who was killed in a duel by the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, (who was likewife killed,) Nov. 15, 1712, is supposed to have been buried in that part called Sr Robert Atkyns's Chapel. At Mr Bannister's funeral in the same place, 1770, was discovered a large leaden coffin, but the wooden one entirely decayed. In February 1692–3, he was indicted for the murder of Mountfort the player, but acquitted: in 1699, he and the Earl of Warwick were tried by the Peers for the murder of Capt Richard Cooke: in May 1712 he carried a challenge from the Duke of Marlborough to Earl Pawlet. Had Hill succeeded in his attempt upon Mrs Bracegirdle, the coachman had orders to drive on to Totteridge." An anecdote relating to this infamous transaction was communicated to me by the present Earl of Orford. Mr. Shorter, father to Sir Robert Walpole's first wife, was walking down Norfolk-street just before Mountfort was stabbed; Lord Mohun, mistaking him for that unfortunate man, came up, and embracing him said, "Dear Mountfort!" Mr. Shorter undeceived him, and walked home: he was scarcely got to his own house, (which was in Norfolk-street,) when he heard the noise and scuffle in the street, which was occasioned by Mountfort's murder. Lord Mohun's exclamation was supposed to have been the signal for the assassins to attack their prey; and it was fortunate for Mr. Shorter that the mistake was so soon discovered.

"Sir William Fazakerly, late chamberlain of the city of London, buried April 3, 1719."

"Mr Paul Heeger, merchant, and Sarah, daughter of Sr Peter Meyer, married Apl 13, 1726; Sr Peter Meyer, buried Jany 1727; Dame Sarah, his relict, Jan. 20, 1732."

Thomas Whincop, a dramatic writer.

"Mr. Wincup, a poet, and lodger at Mr. Porker's, buried Sept 1, 1730." Thomas Whincop, author of a tragedy called Scanderbeg, (published after his death,) to which was annexed a brief account of dramatic writers, with portraits. His widow survived him fifty-two years, being buried at Totteridge, March 28, 1782.

"The Rt Revd Charles Ld Bishop of Bangor (fn. 25) and Elizabeth Lumley, married Nov. 17, 1735."


Mr. Hugh Hare, who died in 1620, bequeathed the sum of 40l. to the poor of this parish. Mrs. Martha Haydon, about the year 1650, gave 1l. 13s. 4d. per annum to the poor. William Campion, Esq. who died in 1719, gave by will 2l. per annum.

Sunday-school established by Mrs. Williams.

Mrs. Elizabeth Williams, (relict of Edward Williams, Esq.) who died in 1793, bequeathed the sum of 400l.; the interest of which (subject to the repairs of her husband's monument) is to be applied to the benefit of the Sunday-school, which had been instituted by her, and, during her lifetime, kept up at her own expence.


  • 1. History of Hertfordshire, p. 304.
  • 2. History of St. Alban's, vol. ii. p. 499.
  • 3. The descent of the manor thus far is taken from Chauncy's Hertfordshire, p. 304; for the remainder I am indebted to John Fiott, Esq.
  • 4. He took the name of Antonie pursuant to the will of Mr. Antonie, who left him the estate of Colwarth-house.
  • 5. See more of it, p. 45 and 46.
  • 6. The descent of this place is given from title-deeds obligingly communicated by Mr. Willes.
  • 7. Biograph. Brit.
  • 8. Ant. Wood's Athen. Oxon vol. ii.
  • 9. Ibid.
  • 10. See her Letters, p. 33, 34. 36. being the only instances in which any mention is made of Totteridge.
  • 11. It is the old spire which was preserved, being supported whilst the church was rebuilt.
  • 12. Inscription, said to have been written by Dr. Hawkesworth: "Here rest the remains of Edward Williams, Esq. late of the Middle Temple, London, barrister at law, who departed this life Feb. 6, 1759, aged 35. At an age when the love of pleasure is most strong, and with a genius to which diligence is least necessary, he was indefatigable in the study of his profession. That superior knowledge and happy elocution which abilities and application united to give him, integrity directed him to use. In the intercourse of social and domestic life, the active benevolence of his heart, rejoicing in every opportunity of imparting happiness and relieving misery, rendered his life a blessing to mankind, and endeared him to an affectionate wife, who, from the tenderest regard to his memory, caused this monument to be erected."
  • 13. Parliamentary Surveys, Lamb. MS. Lib.
  • 14. Proceedings of the Committees, (Ibid.) vol. xi. p. 155.
  • 15. Parish register.
  • 16. Viz. Fourteen mansions, eight farmhouses, four belonging to tradesmen, two public houses, and thirty cottages.
  • 17. Irish Compendium, p. 330.
  • 18. See vol. iii. p. 550, of this work.
  • 19. Irish Compendium.—See more of him, vol. iii. p. 550, of this work.
  • 20. Chauncy's History of Hertfordshire, p. 305.
  • 21. Royal and Noble Authors, vol. i. p. 204.
  • 22. Daughter of the Earl of Manchester by a former wife.
  • 23. Afterwards Earl of Clarendon.
  • 24. Daughter of Henry Lord O'Brien, son and heir of the Earl of Thomond.
  • 25. Charles Cecil, grandson of James, the third Earl of Salisbury of that family.