An Inventory of the Historical Monuments in Middlesex. Originally published by His Majesty's Stationery Office, London, 1937.
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43 RUISLIP (B.c.)
(O.S. 6 in. (a)V, S.W. (b)IX, N.E. (c)X, N.W. (d)X, S.W.)
Ruislip is a large parish and urban district 4 m. W. of Harrow. The church and the Manor Farm earthworks are the principal monuments.
d(1) Parish Church of St. Martin (Plate 4) stands in the village. The walls are of flint-rubble with dressings of Reigate and other freestone; the roofs are covered with tiles and lead. The Nave with its arcades was built in the 13th century, the S. arcade c. 1240 and the N. arcade some time later. The West Tower was added probably in the 15th century and in the second half of the century the Chancel and the South Aisle were re-built; a N. vestry of the same age has since been removed. About 1500 the North Aisle was re-built, the bell-chamber of the tower built and the S. aisle extended E. to form a South Chapel, an arch being inserted between it and the chancel. The tower staircase was built early in the 17th century. The church was restored in 1870 and the West Porch is modern.
The church is of some architectural interest and among the fittings the chests, monuments and paintings are noteworthy.
Architectural Description—The Chancel (34½ ft. by 20 ft.) has a partly restored 15th-century E. window of five cinque-foiled lights with vertical tracery in a four-centred head with a moulded label. In the N. wall are three partly restored 15th-century windows, each of two cinque-foiled lights with vertical tracery in a four-centred head with a moulded label; in the E. bay is a doorway of the same date, now blocked, it has moulded jambs and two-centred head. In the S. wall is a window similar to those in the N. wall and a doorway of the same date, with moulded jambs and two-centred head; in the W. bay is a two-centred arch of c. 1500 and of two hollow-chamfered orders, the outer continuous and the inner springing from semi-octagonal shafts with moulded capitals and bases. The mid 13th-century chancel-arch is two-centred and of two chamfered orders; the semi-octagonal responds have moulded capitals and restored bases; above it on the E. face are the marks of an earlier roof of the chancel.
The South Chapel (21 ft. by 16 ft.) has a partly restored E. window of c. 1500 and of five cinque-foiled lights with vertical tracery in a four-centred head with a moulded label. In the S. wall is a window of the same date and of three cinque-foiled lights with tracery in a two-centred head with a moulded label.
The Nave (64½ ft. by 20½ ft.) (Plate 5) has a mid to late 13th-century N. arcade of six bays with two-centred arches of two chamfered orders and a chamfered label on the S. face; the columns are alternately round and octagonal, with semi-octagonal responds; all have moulded capitals and bases. The earlier S. arcade is of five bays with two-centred arches of one square and one chamfered order with a chamfered label on the N. face; the round and octagonal columns and the semi-octagonal E. respond have moulded capitals and bases; the inner order at the W. end springs from a modern corbel. E. of the arcades are the late 15th-century upper doorways to the rood-loft; they have square heads; the lower doorway, in the N. aisle, has chamfered jambs and four-centred head. In the W. wall is a much restored 14th-century window of three cinque-foiled lights in a two-centred head; the 14th-century W. doorway has moulded jambs, two-centred arch and label.
The North Aisle (14 ft. wide) was re-built c. 1500. The partly restored E. window is of five cinque-foiled lights with vertical tracery in a four-centred head with a moulded label. In the N. wall are four partly restored windows each of three cinque-foiled lights with tracery in a four-centred head; the partly restored N. doorway has moulded jambs and four-centred arch in a square head with foliage, a Tudor rose and a shield in the spandrels. In the W. wall is a window uniform with that in the E. wall.
The South Aisle (16 ft. wide), has, in the S. wall, three windows uniform with the S. window in the S. chapel. The 15th-century S. doorway, now blocked, has a two-centred head and a defaced label.
The West Tower (13¼ ft. square) is of the 15th-century and of three stages, with an embattled parapet. The E. tower-arch is two-centred and of two chamfered orders continued down the responds; above it is the weathering of a former roof of steeper pitch than the present roof. There is a similar but narrower arch in the N. wall. In the W. wall is a window of three cinque foiled lights in a two-centred head. The second stage has in the S. and W. walls a restored window of one round-headed light. The bell-chamber, of c. 1500, has, in each wall, a window of two pointed lights in a square head, with a label.
The Roof of the chancel (Plate 3) is of the 15th century and of three bays with chamfered main timbers and moulded wall-plates; the collar-beam trusses have curved wind-braces. The roof of the nave has modern boarding and 15th-century wall-plates and braces forming four-centred arches and there are five tie-beams; some of the carved paterae are ancient. The roof of the N. aisle is of c. 1500, of six bays and of low pitch with moulded ridge and tie-beams with curved braces; the spandrels are carved with foliage and a grotesque face and there are carved bosses at the main intersections. The roof of the S. aisle is generally similar, but some of the braces rest on the stone corbels of an earlier roof.
Fittings—Book: In nave—Bishop Jewel's Apology, 1611, in leather binding tooled with the royal badges. Brasses and Indents. Brasses: In chancel—(1) of John Hawtrey J.P., 1593, and Bregget, his wife, figures of man in civil costume and wife, achievement and four shields-of-arms now loose in vestry; on S. wall, (2) of [Ralph Hawtrey, 1574], plate with figures of man and wife, six sons and six daughters under a double arch. In nave—(3) to Mary (Living), wife of Abraham Keene, 1696, inscription only; (4) of man in civil costume and group of four daughters, indent of another group, c. 1600. In S. chapel—on E. wall, (5) fragment of inscription with the name Jone and group of daughters, c. 1530. Indents: In chancel—(1) tapering slab with marginal inscription in Lombardic capitals to Roger de Suthcote, early 14th-century. In S. chapel—(2) of plate and two shields. In N. aisle—(3) of civilian, wife and inscription-plate, c. 1500. In S. aisle—(4) of man and wife, two groups of children and inscription-plate, late 15th-century, on earlier indent apparently of cross. Chests (Plate 18): In nave—of oak, hutch-type, iron-bound with three lock-plates with buttress flaps, lid in two parts, early 16th-century. In N. aisle—of oak, plain and iron-bound, lock missing, 16th-century. Cupboards: In tower—on S. wall, bread-cupboard (Plate 24) of four shelves, with enriched side-pilasters, cornice, broken pediment, shield of arms, carved apron and inscription recording gift of Jeremiah Bright, 1697. In S. aisle—front of two bays divided and flanked by pilasters with inlay-work, doors with carved round heads to the panels, plain cornice, 17th-century. Doors: In N. doorway of chancel—of nail-studded battens with round handle, shaped scutcheon and lock-plate, 16th-century. In N. doorway—of battens with strap-hinges, shaped scutcheon, handle in case in nave, 16th-century. In doorway to rood-loft staircase—of nail-studded battens, late 15th-century. In doorway to tower staircase—of battens with applied frame and strap-hinges, 16th-century. Font (Plate 10): square bowl of Purbeck marble with foliated spandrels on top surface, moulded edges and rolls at angles of bowl, lower side shaped for central and four subsidiary supporting shafts, late 12th-century, subsidiary shafts and base, modern. Glass: In N.W. window of N. aisle—part of a roundel with a shield bearing the letter M, early 16th-century. Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: In chancel—on N. wall, (1) to Raphe Hawtrey, J.P., 1638, and Mary (Altham), his wife, 1647, alabaster and marble wall-monument (Plate 175) with busts of man and wife in oval recesses, flanking pilasters, cornice with central pediment and scrolls, achievement, cartouche and two shields-of-arms, monument by John and Matthias Christmas; (2) to Jane (Hawtrey), wife of James Clitherow, 1659, large marble tablet (Plate 17) with elaborate scrolled surround, broken pediment, achievement and three shields-of-arms; in N.W. corner, (3) to Thomas Bright, Vicar, 1673–4, also to Thomas, 1688, Jeremiah, 1689, Jeremiah, 1696, Ann, 1695–6 and Mary, 1696, children of Jeremiah Bright who erected the monument to his father, marble tablet (Plate 16) with Corinthian side-columns, entablature, broken pediment, shield-of-arms and two putti; on S. wall, (4) to Mary (Hawtrey), wife of Sir John Bankes, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, 1661, white marble tablet with shaped surround, entablature, broken pediment and lozenge-of-arms. In nave—above first column on N., (5) to John Reading, 1705, draped marble tablet with two cherub-heads. In churchyard—S. of S. aisle, (6) to John E . . ., 1713, table-tomb. Floor-slabs: In chancel—(1) to Ralph Hawtrey, 1713–4; (2) to Mary, wife of Raphe Hawtrey, 1647, with shield-of-arms and added inscription; (2) to Raphe Hawtrey, 1638, with shield-of-arms; (4) to John Hawtrey, 1658, with shield-of-arms; (5) to Susanna, widow of John Hawtrey, 1690–91, with lozenge-of-arms; (6) to Lady Mary Bankes ; (7) to Elizabeth, daughter of Charles Hawtrey, 1709–10, with lozenge-of-arms; (8) to Edward Hawtrey, 1683, with shield-of-arms; (9) to Robert Hawtrey, 1681, and John his brother; (10) to Barbara, daughter of Ralph Hawtrey, 1680, with shield-of-arms; (11) to Elizabeth, daughter of George Rogers, 1679–80, also to Ann, 1686, and Mary Rogers, 1687, with shield-of-arms; (12) to John, Ann and Sarah, children of John Hawtrey, also to Mary (Dacers), wife of George Rogers, 1705–6, with shield-of-arms; (13) to George Rogers, 1697–8; (14) to Ralph Hawtrey, 1703, with shield-of-arms; (15) to Charles Hawtrey, 1698, with shield-of-arms; (16) to Richard Hawtrey, 1691, with shield-of-arms; (17) to George Sitwell, 1708, and Elizabeth (Hawtrey), his wife, 1712; (18) two slabs, mostly covered, with dates 1697 and 1698. In nave—(19) to John Readding, 1670–1, and Martha, his wife, 1682–3; (20) to Henry Welsted, 1651, and Katherine, his wife, 1634; (21) to Hannah, wife of Abraham Keene, 1714, and others later. Paintings: In chancel—on E. wall and N. wall, diaper-pattern of conventional brocade-foliage in yellow on red ground, 16th-century; on N. wall, partly hidden by the Clitherow monument, figures of angels grouped round a central figure, 15th-century. In nave—above N. and S. arcades, traces of scenes from the life of a saint, said to be St. Martin, in red and yellow, all very fragmentary except a figure of a man above fourth column on S., early 16th-century. In N. aisle—on face of rood-loft staircase, figure of St. Michael (Plate 143) weighing a soul, with the Virgin standing on his left; below, a figure of St. Lawrence with gridiron, with architectural setting, late 15th-century. Piscina: In chancel—recess (Plate 21) with moulded jambs and cinque-foiled arch in square head, moulded shelf, late 15th-century. In S. chapel—in S. wall, recess with four-centred head, no drain, 15th-century. Plate (Plate 22): includes cup and cover-paten of 1595 with engraved band round bowl and a flagon perhaps of 1681. Pulpit (Plate 25): of oak, hexagonal with moulded base and cornice, three outer sides each with large arched panel composed of faceted blocks, upper and lower panels with jewel and arabesque ornament, angles with half-baluster enrichments, early 17th-century. Seating: In chancel—against N. wall, pew with linen-fold panels and moulded and embattled top-rail, bench-ends shaped and with moulded edge, early 16th-century. In nave—five benches with moulded top-rails and ends; back of W. bench on S. with nine cinquefoil-headed and traceried panels and buttresses; front of fourth bench on S. similarly panelled but with modern tracery, 15th-century. Stoup: In W. porch—recess with mutilated cinque-foiled head, 15th-century. Tiles: In chancel—slip-tiles with foliage designs, a fleur-de-lis, remains of inscription and a shield of England, 14th-century. Miscellanea: Incorporated in E. wall of S. chapel— three stones worked on the curve.
c(2) Homestead Moat, over ½ m. N.W. of the church.
c(3) Homestead Moat, at Eastcote nearly 1¼ m. N.E. of the church and 150 yards W. of (39), is fragmentary.
d(4) Manor Farm, house, barn and earthworks 250 yards N. of the church, mark the site of a cell of the Benedictine Priory of Ogbourne (Wilts), itself a cell of Bec Abbey. The House is of two storeys with attics; the walls are partly timber-framed and partly of brick and the roofs are tiled. It was built probably early in the 16th century and has 18th-century and modern additions on the E. and N.W. Some of the original timber-framing is exposed and inside the building the main wing has original moulded and chamfered ceiling-beams. The hall has early 18th century panelling. The Barn (Plate 33), S.W. of the house, is a timber and weather-boarded structure of c. 1600; a second barn is now being restored.
The Earthworks consist of a motte and bailey castle, a precinct, a large enclosure and a mound. The castle is presumably that of Ernulf de Hesdin who gave the manor to Bec Abbey in 1096. The round motte still retains its wet ditch but the ditch of the bailey on the N. has been largely filled in; in the bailey stands the farm-house. Traces of a Roman (?) building have been found just E. of the motte. The accompanying detailed plan shows the remains of the smaller enclosure or precinct with a double bank and medial ditch along the N. side. It has been suggested that these banks were formerly continued round the church and village to form a roughly circular village-enclosure. To the N. and N.E. of the smaller enclosure is a much larger one of some 350 acres. It has remains of a bank with an outer ditch and perhaps formed an enclosed park. A further extension to the N. is indicated by remains of a bank running N.N.W., parallel to Frog Lane. Surviving remains of these banks are indicated on the accompanying general plan. In a bend of the river Pinn, 160 yards N. of Manor Farm, is a mound about 45 ft. in diameter and 3½ ft. high; it has no surrounding ditch and has been cut into on the N. (See H. Braun in Land. and Mid. Arch. Soc. Trans. N.S. VII. 99.)
Condition—Of house, good.
The following monuments, unless otherwise described, are of the 17th century and of two storeys; the walls are timber-framed and the roofs are tiled. Many of the buildings have exposed framing and ceiling-beams.
Condition—Good or fairly good, unless noted.
d(5) House, two tenements and shops at the N. end of High Street and 80 yards N.W. of the church, has been refaced in brick.
d(6) Almshouses, ten tenements, on the S. side of Eastcote Road 30 yards E. of (5).
d(7) House, Nos. 1 and 3 High Street, 20 yards N.W. of the church, was built c. 1500 and extended towards the N. late in the 16th century; a further N. extension was made late in the 17th century. The upper storey projects and is gabled on the E. side of the original block; a curved brace is carved with foliage and a molet. Inside the original building are some moulded ceiling-beams with curved braces carved with foliage and a double rose; the fireplace, in the same room, has an oak lintel carved with a large bird's claw, and a series of farm-yard animals; above the fireplace is an ornamental brick arcading or corbel-table, with trefoiled arches and tapering corbels with small shields. The original roof has curved braces under the collar-beam forming a four-centred arch.
d(8) House, three tenements and shops, Nos. 5 and 7, immediately S. of (7), has been much altered c. 1700 and later. An attic-staircase at the N. end has shaped splat-balusters.
d(9) House, four tenements, Nos. 9–15, immediately S. of (8), was built late in the 15th or early in the 16th century but has been completely altered internally. The upper storey projects on the E. front with a moulded bressummer and exposed framing; near the N. end of the lower storey is a diapered cross in the brickwork.
d(10) Old Swan Inn, on the W. side of High Street opposite (9), has a S. range of c. 1500; the adjoining block on the N. was built c. 1600 and there are 18th-century and later additions beyond it. The roof of the original wing has a braced central purlin and heavy wall-posts and plates. A blocked 17th-century window is of three lights with moulded mullions.
d(11) House, with shop, 20 yards N. of (10), has been refronted.
d(12) George Hotel, N.W. of (11), has modern additions on the N. and S.
d(13) The Old House, on the W. side of Bury Street 170 yards N.W. of the church, contains some early 16th-century linen-fold panelling and two rooms are mostly lined with 17th-century panelling.
d(14) Mill House, 120 yards N.W. of (13), has been largely modernised.
d(15) Hill Farm, house 800 yards W. of the church, has an early 18th-century staircase with turned balusters and close strings.
d(16) House, on the S. side of Kingsend 630 yards S.S.W. of the church, has been incorporated with a modern house.
d(17) House, three tenements on the S. side of Wood Lane 120 yards S.S.E. of (16), has an 18th-century addition on the N.
d(18) Fieldend Farm, house and barn ½ m. S. of the church. The House has an 18th-century addition on the W. The upper storey projects at the N. end. The Barn, S.E. of the house, is weather-boarded.
d(19) Sherley's Farm, house and outbuilding 170 yards E.N.E. of (18). The House has an original moulded ceiling-beam in the N.E. room. The Outbuilding, S. of the church, formed a stable and barn and is weather-boarded.
c(20) House, on the W. side of Bury Street ½ m. N.N.W. of the church, has been much altered.
c(21) Little Manor Farm, house 120 yards N.W. of (20), appears to incorporate part of the roof of a mediæval hall of one storey; it includes a heavy cambered tie-beam and the timbers are smoke-blackened.
c(22) Woodman's Farm, house 130 yards E.N.E. of (21), contains some 17th-century panelling.
c(23) Plough Inn, 50 yards W. of (22), incorporates remains of a mediæval building, with a block of c. 1600 on the S. side and various later and modern additions. The original block had a king-post roof and the timbers are smoke-blackened. A small barn, S. of the inn, is weather-boarded.
c(24) Cottage, on the E. side of the road 70 yards S. of Cannon Bridge, was built probably in the 16th century.
c(25) Cottage, on the S. side of Brakespear Road 140 yards W. of (24).
c(26) House, immediately N.E. of (25), has been much altered.
c(27) Cottage, two tenements, at Ruislip Common about 1 m. N.N.W. of the church.
b(28) Youngwood Farm, house over 1½ m. N.N.W. of the church, has an 18th-century addition on the W. side.
b(29) Duckshill Farm, house and barns ½ m. N. of (28). The House has been refaced in brick. The Barns, E. and S. of the house, are of four and two bays respectively.
a(30) Northwood Grange, 2½ m. N. of the church, incorporates a 15th-century block at the W. end; the adjoining cross-wing on the E. is probably of the same date and to the E. of it is a long range of c. 1600. There are extensive modern additions on the N. The roof of the original block is of three bays and of king-post type with cambered tie-beams, curved braces and king-posts.
a(31) Gateshill Farm, house over ¾ m. E.S.E. of (30), is mainly of brick.
a(32) Cottage, just S. of the railway and 1¾ m. N.E. of the church.
c(33) Cuckoohill Farm, house 520 yards S.S.E. of (32). The upper storey projects and is gabled in the middle of the E. front.
c(34) Mistletoe Farm, house 150 yards S. of (33).
c(35) Hornend, house on the W. side of Cheney Street 330 yards S.S.E. of (34), has extensive additions on the N. and S.
c(36) Cheney Farm, house 350 yards S.S.W. of (35), has a modern addition on the W.
c(37) St. Catherine's Farm, house and barn on the E. side of Catlin's Lane 1½ m. N.E. of the church. The House was built probably late in the 16th century. The Barn, N. of the house, is of five bays and weather-boarded.
c(38) Ramin, house 180 yards S.S.W. of (37). The upper storey projects at the S. end. The barn, N. of the house, is of the 16th century.
c(39) Eastcote Grange, house and cottage 80 yards W. of (38). The House was built in the 16th century and has a modern addition on the W. The roof has curved wind-braces. The 17th-century staircase has been made up with modern work. The Cottage, S. of the house, is of the 17th century.
c(40) Eastcote House and outbuilding, 280 yards S.S.W. of (39). The House was built in the 16th or early in the 17th century, with a central block and N. and S. cross-wings. The house was completely refaced in the 18th century, when an addition was made on the E. side and a N.E. wing added. Inside the building, the N. cross-wing has much 17th-century panelling. The roof of the original main block has braced tie-beams and moulded 16th-century purlins. The Stables, N. of the house, are of the 17th century.
c(41) Eastcote Cottage, 170 yards S.S.W. of (40), was built late in the 16th century, but has been much altered and refaced.
c(42) The Barns, house 230 yards S.E. of (41), is perhaps of mediæval origin but has been much altered and added to. The original roof is of three bays and of king-post type, with shaped wall-posts.
b(43) Outbuildings (Plate 29), in the grounds of the Retreat and E. of (42), include a cottage and barn (Plate 33), of late 16th or early 17th-century date.
c(44) Park Farm, house 250 yards S.S.E. of (40).
c(45) Sigers, house 100 yards E.S.E. of (44).
c(46) Fieldend Lodge (Plate 30), on the W. side of Fieldend Road 1¼ m. E.N.E. of the church, incorporates part of a 16th-century house. The upper storey projects at the E. end and has exposed vertical framing.
c(47) Fieldend Farm, house and barn 300 yards S. of (46). The House has modern additions on the W. and has been partly refaced. Inside the building is a re-set 17th-century overmantel. The Barn, S. of the house, is of early 16th-century date and of unusual height. It incorporates much re-used material.
c(48) Old Barn House, 270 yards S.W. of (40), is of late mediæval origin but has been extensively altered.
c(49) Cottage, on the W. side of Fore Street 250 yards N. of Eastcote Road.
c(50) Fore Street Farm, house and barn 350 yards N. of (49). The House has an early 18th-century extension on the N. The Barn, S. of the house, is weather-boarded.
c(51) Old Cheney Cottage, on the W. side of Wiltshire Lane 350 yards N.E. of (50).
c(52) Ivy Farm, house 70 yards N.W. of (51), perhaps incorporates some late mediæval work.
c(53) Cherry Cottage, adjoining (52) on the E., has some 17th-century panelling.
c(54) House, two tenements 120 yards N. of (52).
c(55) Hayden Hall Farm, house on the W. side of Joel Street 200 yards E. of (54), has been partly refaced.