An Inventory of the Historical Monuments in Middlesex. Originally published by His Majesty's Stationery Office, London, 1937.
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52 TOTTENHAM (E.b.)
(O.S. 6 in. XII, N.E.)
Tottenham is a parish on the E. border of the county and adjoining the county of London on the N. The church, Bruce Castle and the Priory are the principal monuments.
(1) Parish Church of All Hallows (Plate 178) stands 650 yards to the W. of the main N. road. The walls are of rag-stone and flint rubble and brick with dressings of Reigate and other freestone; the roofs are tiled. The West Tower was built early in the 14th century and later in the same century the Old Chancel and Nave, with their arcades, were re-built. About 1500 the South Aisle was largely re-built and both aisles were probably lengthened towards the E.; the South Porch was added about the same period. A N. Vestry was added in 1696 but has since been destroyed. Late in the 18th century the upper part of the tower was added and in 1816 the church was restored, probably extended by one bay, and the North Aisle re-built; in 1875 the church was again restored and a new Chancel, Transepts and Vestries added to the E. of the old building. Former galleries at the W. end and in the S. aisle have been removed.
The S. porch is of interest and among the fittings the sanctus-bell and some of the monuments are noteworthy.
Architectural Description—The Old Chancel and Nave (92½ ft. by 20½ ft.) have a late 14th-century N. arcade of six bays, with two-centred arches of two hollow-chamfered orders; the octagonal columns and semi-octagonal W. respond have moulded capitals and hollow-chamfered bases; the additional E. bay, column and respond are modern. The S. arcade is of similar date and detail except that the inner order of the arches is chamfered; both on the N. and S. the third pier is modern but on the N. it has an old capital re-set; this point marked the division between the old chancel and nave. The clearstorey is modern.
The North Aisle (12¾ ft. wide) is modern, but re-set in the W. wall is a much restored window of c. 1500 and of three cinque-foiled lights in a three-centred head with a moulded label.
The South Aisle (13½ ft. wide) has, in the S. wall, four windows; the easternmost is modern; the other three are of c. 1500 partly restored and each of two cinque-foiled lights in a square head with a moulded label; between the second and third windows is the rood-loft staircase, partly restored; the lower doorway has a three-centred head and the upper doorway a roughly pointed head; the S. doorway is largely modern but incorporates two old spandrels, one cusped and with a patera and the other with a rosette and foliage; part of the moulded arch is also old. In the W. wall is a restored window similar to the corresponding window in the N. aisle.
The West Tower (11½ ft. square) is of early 14th-century date and of three stages with an added 18th-century top stage. The two-centred tower arch is of one moulded and two hollow-chamfered orders; the semi-octagonal responds have moulded capitals and modern bases. In the W. wall is a modern window and doorway. The second stage has, in the N., S. and W. walls, a round opening; in the E. wall is a 14th-century window of one trefoiled ogee light, now blocked. In this stage is a timber support to the floor above. The third stage has in each wall the remains of a pointed window, now blocked and with two small openings inserted in the blocking. Flanking the E. window are traceried panels, each of two cinque-foiled lights in a two-centred head. The bell-chamber is an addition of the 18th century; on the E. side are remains of the checker-work of the earlier parapet; in each wall are two 18th-century windows.
The South Porch is of c. 1500 and of brick with dark brick diapering and stone dressings; it is of two storeys with an embattled parapet. The outer archway is largely modern but has old spandrels carved with rosettes and leaves and part of the original moulded label. The side walls have each a much restored window of two cinque-foiled lights in a square head with a moulded label. The upper storey has, in the E. and S. walls, a window similar to those just described. In the W. wall is a projecting chimney-stack on moulded corbelling. The W. wall of the upper storey, internally, has two recesses with four-centred heads and in the N. wall is a squint looking into the S. aisle.
The Roof of the S. aisle is of c. 1500 and of eight bays with king-post trusses; the tie-beams are moulded and the octagonal king-posts have moulded capitals and bases and four-way struts. The roof of the upper storey of the porch has cambered tie-beams and a ridge-piece.
Fittings—Bells: eight and sanctus; 3rd to 8th by Philip Wightman, 1696; sanctus said to have been the garrison-bell at Quebec, taken in 1759 and given to the church in 1801, inscribed "Sit nomen Domini benedictum I. H. fecit 1663," and with various applied reliefs, etc., French. Brasses and Indent. Brasses: In nave—(1) of Elizabeth, wife of John Burrough, 1616, figures of man in civil costume and wife, two sons and one daughter. In S. aisle—on S. wall, (2) to Margaret (Barkham), wife of Sir Anthony Irby, 1640, plate with kneeling figures of woman and three daughters and shield-of-arms; on W. wall, (3) to Jefrye Walkdine, 1599, inscription only. Indent: In S. aisle— of figure, inscription-plate and two shields. Communion Table (Plate 24): In N. transept—with moulded and dentilled edge, four main legs in form of columns, standing on stretchers and with enriched arch at each end, central stretcher supporting an arcade on four small columns, early 17th-century. Glass (Plate 179): In N. aisle—in W. window, seated figures of St. Mark, St. Matthew and St. Luke under canopies with cherubs and other features above, and below, small figures of David, Isaiah and Jeremiah, under arches, the middle one with a shield-of-arms, French, late 16th or early 17th-century, canopy of middle light, earlier. Monuments: In N. aisle—on N. wall, (1) to Mary (Wilcocks), wife of Sir Robert Barkham, 1644, black and white marble monument (Plate 175) of three stages, lowest panelled, middle stage with figures of four sons and eight daughters, top stage with busts of man in armour and wife, with double arched back-piece, scrolls, cornice, broken pediment, achievement and three cartouches-of-arms; (2) to Hannah, daughter of Stephen Estwicke, 1705–6, white marble tablet with cornice and base. In S. aisle—on S. wall, (3) to Richard Kandeler, 1602, and Elizabeth (Lock), his wife, 1622–3, also to Sir Ferdinando Heyborne, 1618, and Anne (Candeler), his wife, 1615, marble wall-monument (Plate 180) with panelled base, two arches above divided and flanked by obelisks and finished with entablature, under each arch kneeling figures of man and wife at prayer-desk; (4) to Sir John Melton, 1640, marble wall-monument (Plate 180) with Corinthian side-columns, entablature, broken pediment, kneeling figures of man and wife at prayer-desk, achievement and two shields-of-arms; (5) to Rev. Daniell Chadwick, 1697–8, and Theodosia his daughter, 1697–8, white marble tablet with scrolls and shield-of-arms; on W. wall, (6) to Bridgett (Bowyer), wife successively of John Moyse and James Pagitt, 1626, and John Moyse, her son, 1623, black marble slab. In churchyard—S. of S. aisle, (7) to Mary Hobby, daughter of Stephen Bea[le], 1707–8, slab with lozenge-of-arms; W. of S. aisle, (8) to Rebekah, wife of John Angell, 1682, headstone.
(2) Homestead Moat, S. of the river Moselle and nearly ¾ m. S.W. of the parish church, is of rectangular form. The island has been divided into two square parts.
(3) Tottenham High Cross, on the E. side of High Road, immediately N. of High Cross Street, is a structure of brick and modern stucco. A former wooden cross seems to have been replaced by Dean Wood, c. 1600, by the present brick structure. It is octagonal and of three stages with a pyramidal top and was formerly finished with a ball. In 1809 it was covered with stucco and the existing Gothic embellishments added in that material.
(4) Bruce Castle (Plate 182), house and tower, 200 yards S.S.E. of the parish church. The House, now the Borough Museum, is of three storeys; the walls are of brick with some stone dressings and the roofs are tiled. The property seems to have been acquired by Sir William Compton in 1514, but a late 17th-century view of the building seems to indicate that the house was a structure of late 16th-century date. The porch was heightened and largely re-built by Lord Coleraine c. 1684 and other alterations made. About 1720 a large addition was made on the N. side of the main block. Later in the 18th century, under the Townsend family, the two wings were re-built, the former gables of the S. front replaced by a plain parapet and all the windows renewed. Early in the 19th century the W. wing was demolished.
The S. Front has, at each end, the semi-octagonal projections of the original building but the windows are all of the 18th century, as is the main parapet. The late 17th-century porch is of two storeys surmounted by a clock-tower. The porch has rusticated quoins and is finished with a modillioned cornice surmounted by a wooden balustrade. The entrance doorway has a round arch with a scrolled key-stone and is flanked by Doric pilasters with entablatures and a cornice; the window above is flanked by Ionic pilasters. Cut on a brick on the W. side of the porch are the initials and date C.C. 1684. The clock-tower rises from the middle of the porch and is of three stages; the lowest is plastered and has rusticated quoins and a modillioned cornice with a balustrade above. It has an 18th-century window in the S. face with a clock above. The second stage is octagonal with a window in each face, a cornice and a balustrade. The top stage forms a cupola with round arched openings, cornice, dome and weather-vane. The N. Front has a central feature of c. 1720 with a cornice and pediment containing the achievement-of-arms of Hare (Lord Coleraine). Inside the building, the porch retains a 17th-century modillioned cornice but the other fittings are of 18th-century or modern date.
The Tower (Plate 55), 25 yards S.W. of the house, is now of two storeys with a basement; the walls are of brick. It was built some time in the 16th century, but for what purpose is uncertain. It was formerly crowned by a timber lantern, which would seem to render its use as a water-tower improbable. The tower is a circular building with an internal diameter of 15¾ ft. and walls 3 ft. thick. The external face is in three arcaded stages; the lowest has a series of seven pointed arches extending about half way round and each with a loop-opening; on the N.E. is a doorway with a two-centred head, set in a projection. The middle stage has 17 recessed panels with pointed heads and with a bracketed cornice confined to the panels and at half their height. The doorway and window on the N.W. appear to be modern. The top stage has a deep corbel-table of pointed arches with a modern embattled parapet. Inside the building, the basement is said to have a domed ceiling. The main storey has a cornice with four projections from which a former domed ceiling may have sprung as the wall-face above is rough.
(5) The Priory, house, now the Vicarage, 60 yards S. of the parish church, is of two storeys with cellar and attics; the walls are of brick and the roofs are tiled. The house was built c. 1620 by Joseph Fenton and was perhaps originally timber-framed; it consisted of a central block with side wings on the N. and S. Early in the 18th century the E. front was refaced, the S. wing re-built and a block added on the W. side. There is a modern enlargement of the S. wing. The E. front is now of the 18th century with an eaves-cornice, windows with flush frames and a doorway with side-pilasters and a curved pediment. Inside the building, the Dining Room (Plate 184) has an original plaster ceiling (Plate 40) divided into geometrical panels by moulded and enriched ribs; the panels have fleurs-de-lis, masks and flower or fruit sprays; across the ceiling is a beam with running plaster ornament of fruit on the soffit; on the middle panel, E. of the beam, is the name Joseph Fenton and a tun. The room E. of the central stack, on the first floor, has an original ceiling (Plate 40) with a central panel bearing the same name and the date 1620; surrounding it is an oval of small rosettes with two circles at the ends both enclosing a large rosette; the walls are lined with original panelling finished with a cornice; the fireplace (Plate 169) is flanked by fluted pilasters supporting a bracketed shelf and an overmantel; this is of two bays divided and flanked by terminal pilasters supporting an entablature; each bay has an enriched oval panel with straps enclosing a small panel with the name and date Joseph Fenton, 1621. The room to the W. is lined with similar panelling and has a similar overmantel, but with enriched pilasters in place of the terminal pilasters and with rectangular panels in the bays. In the garden is an early 18th-century wrought iron gate, formerly at the old Vicarage; it has standards, gate and overthrow enriched with scroll-work and foliage and on the overthrow is a monogram, probably R.M.
(6) Asplin Farm, house 1 m. E. of the church, is of three storeys; the walls are partly timber-framed and partly of brick and the roofs are tile and slate-covered. It was built early in the 17th century but late in the same century the S. block was remodelled and heightened. Towards the middle of the 18th century the present S. front was built. Inside the building, the hall is lined with original panelling and a room on the first floor of the N. wing is lined with similar panelling finished with an entablature having arabesque ornament on the frieze; the fireplace is flanked by fluted pilasters supporting a bracketed shelf and overmantel; the brackets are carved with cherub-heads and the overmantel is of two bays divided and flanked by terminal pilasters supporting an entablature continued from that of the walls; the bays are filled with a design of rectangular panels. The late 17th or early 18th-century staircase has turned balusters, close strings and square newels.
The following monuments, unless otherwise described, are of the 17th century and of two storeys; the walls are of brick and the roofs are tile or slate-covered.
Condition—Good or fairly good, unless noted.
(7) House with shops, Nos. 589 and 591 on the W. side of the road 780 yards S.E. of the church, is timber-framed and partly of three storeys. The S. part is perhaps a late 17th-century addition. In the N. part of the building the hall has plain early 17th-century panelling on the W. wall and enriched panelling of the same period on the E. wall; this part has central panels of arcaded type. The S. part of the building has a late 17th-century staircase with turned balusters and a fireplace with a bolection-moulded surround.
(8) Dial House, No. 790 on the E. side of the road ½ m. N.E. of the church, is of three storeys with attics; The lower E. wing may date from early in the 17th century but the front block was remodelled or re-built in 1691. The front has bands between the storeys and a coved eaves-cornice continued along the returns. On the S. end is a painted stone sundial with the inscription and date "Ut umbra sumus," 1691. Inside the building are some late 17th-century doors and fireplaces with moulded surrounds and cornices; the upper part of the staircase is of the same date and has twisted balusters and close strings.
(9) Gateway, at Percy House, immediately N. of (8), was erected c. 1700. It has rusticated piers with cornices and ball-terminals and gates of scrolled ironwork with a monogram on the overthrow. A gardenwall at the back of the house is perhaps of late 16th or early 17th-century date.
(10) House, with shops Nos. 824 and 826, 20 yards N. of Northumberland Park, has been extensively altered.
(11) Range of tenements with shops Nos. 830–836, 10 yards N. of (10), is timber-framed and was built probably early in the 18th century.
(12) House, No. 864 at the S. corner of Brantwood Road, is timber-framed and of three storeys. The top storey projects on the W. front.
(13) Range of tenements with shops Nos. 884–890a, 30 yards N. of (12), is partly timber-framed. It has been extensively altered.
(14) Brook House, on the W. side of the road nearly opposite (13), is of two storeys with attics. It was built probably early in the 17th century but was remodelled and refaced c. 1700. On the E. front the two wings retain their eaves-cornices of c. 1700; the space between has been filled by a modern addition behind which is the doorway of c. 1700; it is flanked by fluted Corinthian columns supporting an entablature with the architrave turned up in the middle and cherub-heads over the columns. Inside the building are some early 17th-century moulded ceiling-beams and some doors and door-frames of the same date. There is some early 18th-century and Georgian panelling and an early 18th-century fireplace with a marble surround.
(15) Range of tenements with shops, Nos. 855 and 863, 100 yards S. of (14), was built probably late in the 17th or early in the 18th century but has been extensively altered.